Starboard 2014

SUMMER 2014 MAIDEN ISSUE

CALLING ALL ADVENTURE SEEKERS VISIT ONE NOVA SCOTIA SCOOP ON THE SUDS BOUTIQUES & BARGAINS ARTSY SHORES TO EXPLORE AND MORE MORE!

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Based on #1 brewed coffee servings at QSR (The NPD Group/CREST® YE Feb ’13). © Tim Hortons, 2013

You know about our mouthwatering seafood and our amazing scenery, but we also have some of the

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Soon youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll explore a shoreline where one working coastal community leads to the next. And experience the rare privilege of visiting lively towns and villages infused with their own unique culture. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll savour seafood pulled from the ocean, mouth-watering produce from our traditional valley farms, and acclaimed wine from our vintners.

Remember to stop by the Visitor Information Centre For in-depth local info, travel advice, maps, brochures and reservations see us in the Yarmouth Ferry Terminal or visit novascotia.com/VIC for a list of Visitor Information Centres around the province.

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7 NOVA SCOTIAN EXPERIENCES YOU’LL WANT TO COME BACK FOR.

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1 Hike Cape Breton’s Skyline Trail to get an eagle’s eye view of one of North America’s most stunning National Parks.

2 Sail aboard an

authentic tall-ship on Halifax’s historic waterfront. 3 Make a toll-free call anywhere in North America from a phone booth hidden amongst the grapes in Luckett Vineyards. 4 Take a step back in time in Lunenburg, home of Bluenose II and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 5 Grab a surfboard and head for the waves – whether you’re a novice or an expert, the surfing here is year-round. 6 Let a master storyteller take you on a guided tour of one of our more than 160 historic lighthouses. 7 Go on the ultimate foodie adventure with The Kilted Chef as you prepare delicious meals caught locally off the famous Northumberland Shore.

Nova Star is WiFi enabled.

Watch online now!

contents 36

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YOUR journey BEGINS –GREETINGS FROM NOVA STAR FERRIES

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58

FOOD AND DRINK 42 Eat Local 49 Something to Crow About 52 Foodies Behold 55 Scoop on the Suds 58 Seasonal Sommelier ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE 67 Calling All Adventure Seekers

ART, CULTURE, SHOPPING 14 In the City 22 Artsy Shores To Explore 25 Boutiques and Bargains in Maine 28 The Who’s Who of Maine and Nova Scotia 32 Novel Reads 36 Quirky Maine 39 Trade Ya

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Beach Bums

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Fore For Golf

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STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

STARBOARD EDITOR & PROJECT MANAGER Kim Moar - The Chronicle Herald

HISTORICAL INTERESTS 84 Bluenose – a ship, a people and a legacy 88 The Way It Was 94 The Importance of Being a Lighthouse 96 Acadians Then and Now 98 A Shared Culture

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VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND MARKETING & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Lisa Arnold SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Kim Corton PRODUCTION Brian Graham ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Aimee Surette

PUBLISHED BY

ALL ABOUT MAINE 103 Splurgers and Scrimpers 108 Romantic Stays 110 Yes! You Must

Herald Custom Media for Nova Star Cruises DIRECTOR, HERALD CUSTOM MEDIA Jeff Nearing

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ATLANTIC CANADA 113 Ferry Tales 118 Day Trips From Yarmouth 122 Splurgers and Scrimpers 126 An Insider’s Guide to Yarmouth 130 One Nova Scotia 136 PEI Bound 144 Romantic Stays and Getaways

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CONTRIBUTORS Bruce Bishop, Heather Laura Clarke, Pamela Delaney, Allan Lynch, Tom Mason, Hilary Nangle, Sandra Phinney, Jon Tattrie, Julie V. Watson

PHOTOGRAPHERS Frank Aherne, Bruce Bishop, Charlie Colter, Jenny Gillis, Wally Hayes, Devaan Ingraham, James Ingram, Chris Muise, Scott Munn, Sandra Phinney, C. Reardon, George Simhoni, Michele Stapleton, Jim Waldrum, 123rf.com, Maine Office of Tourism, Nova Scotia Tourism Agency, Yarmouth & Acadian Shores Tourism Association

IN A SNAPSHOT 150 Day in the Life: Maine 154 Day in the Life: Nova Scotia FOR YOUR INTEREST 158 Local Apps

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

VICE PRESIDENT, SALES & MARKETING Owen John

© The Chronicle Herald 2014 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in retrieval systems or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission from the publisher.

The Chronicle Herald 2717 Joseph Howe Drive PO Box 610, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3J 2T2 902-426-2811 thechronicleherald.ca

PRINTED BY

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MAPS

Dollco Printing

164

GALLERY SCHEDULE

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SHIP INFORMATION

Cover image of fused glass napkin holders made by Kiln Art in Chester Basin, NS. Photo by Scott Munn

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SAFETY PROCEDURES

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

Disclaimer Starboard magazine makes no warranties of any kind, written or implied regarding the contents of this magazine and expressly disclaims any warranty regarding the accuracy or reliability of information and advertising contained herein. Starboard magazine further disclaims any responsibility for injuries or death incurred by any person or persons engaging in these activities. The views contained in this magazine are those of the writers and advertisers; they do not necessarily reflect the views of Starboard magazine and its publisher, The Chronicle Herald.

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It only seems like this place doesn’t sleep.

Image credits: Tourism Nova Scotia

Welcome to one of the most picturesque NEW BRUNSWICK

MONCTON residenceinnmoncton.com

INGONISH kelticlodge.ca

CAPE BRETON

ST. ANDREWS BY-THE-SEA algonquinresort.com

DARTMOUTH dartmouthhampton.com

NOVA SCOTIA

DIGBY digbypines.ca

LISCOMB MILLS liscombelodge.ca HALIFAX thewestinnovascotian.com

YARMOUTH NOVA STAR TERMINAL

and vibrant parts of the country. No matter where in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick your travels take you, you’ll be rewarded with outstanding scenery, warm Maritime culture, and countless unique experiences you simply won’t want to end.

Of course, last call always comes – eventually. And when it does, you need a place to lay your head that will energize you for another day of adventure.

New Castle Hotels and Resorts are everywhere you want to be in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

Whether you want an iconic resort with historic charm, or a modern hotel close to the action, we have you covered. So explore the farthest reaches of these magical provinces, and keep adding to your list of experiences. We’ll be waiting for you along the way!

Visit our hotel and resort websites to learn more and make reservations.

“Right up there with the best I have seen – worldwide.” —Herman Driesen, Perth, Australia

Only in Maine. Only at MMM! 䡵

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Life-size sculpture of largest wooden sailing ship Wyoming One-of-a-kind historic shipyard Indoor galleries & outdoor exhibits Family friendly activities New Blacksmith Shop exhibit opening Summer 2014 MWMS1916, FLICKR.COM

243 Washington Street • Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org

Journey through the inspiring colors and natural landscapes of coastal Maine.

www.MaineGardens.org BOOTHBAY, MAINE | 95, YEARROUND

The World’s Only Life-Size Chocolate Moose!

Lenny is 1700 pounds of chocolate and stands 8 ft. tall in a diorama of his natural habitat.

See how Lenny was created and enjoy our handcrafted confections and ice cream and our gift shop.

Just 10 mins from Portland!

Richard Estes (United States, born 1932), Sunday Afternoonin the Park (detail), 1989, oil on canvas, 36 x 86 inches. Private collection. ©Richard Estes, courtesy Marlborough Gallery, New York.

419 US 1 ̉ Scarborough, ME ̉ 207-883-4897 ̉ lenlibby.com

Richard Estes’ Realism May 22–S eptember 7 Treasures from the Berger Collection: British Art 1400-2000 Oc tober 2, 2014–Januar y 2, 1015

Seven Congress Square, Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 775-6148 | www.portlandmuseum.org

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Dear Guest, I was a frequent passenger on the previous ferry service. For me, it was a transportation necessity — enabling me to return home to New England on weekends, and be back in Nova Scotia for the start of the work week. While it wasn’t always easy, such a commute would not have been possible without the ferry between Yarmouth and Portland.

The loss of service on this historic route had a dramatic impact on the economy of Southwest Nova. It also had a profound effect on me. As a mariner by trade, I was convinced that it presented an exciting opportunity.

What began as an idea, came together over the last three years thanks to the hard work and tenacity of many talented people. If I named everyone who had an impact on this project, and has given so much of their time and effort to make it a reality, I would fill many pages of this magazine. I salute all those of you who not only carried the torch but helped shape our vision.

Nova Star Cruises will be forever indebted to the people of Nova Scotia, whose demand for the return of a ferry service never abated, and to the Province of Nova Scotia, whose generous financial support made this business venture possible.

If you’re embarking on a vacation getaway, looking forward to visiting friends and family, or enjoying a shopping expedition, we hope you enjoy the cruise experience on board Nova Star. Stay tuned as we continue to develop an expanding variety of vacation packages combining fares and our network of tourism partners that will be offered by Nova Star Discovery. Visit NovaStarCruises.com as we strive to provide all the tools and information you need to enjoy the best possible on-board experience.

On behalf on my partners, our shareholders, our shore-side staff, our ship’s operator, our on-board crew, and all of our supporters and collaborators, I proudly share this best-inclass ship with our guests, family and friends from both regions. Thank you for sailing with us today.

It is my greatest pleasure to welcome you on board Nova Star. We look forward to serving you for many years to come.

Warmest regards,

Mark Amundsen President & CEO, Nova Star Cruises Ltd.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

11

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

IN THE

city

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism/C. Reardon Above Downtown Portland Right Halifax Citadel National Historic

Site of Canada

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BY Heather Laura Clarke

PORTLAND AND HALIFAX OFFER SOME OF THE VERY BEST IN NIGHTLIFE, DINING, CULTURE, SHOPPING AND MORE

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

PORTLAND

“Portland offers pretty much everything a big city offers, but with a small-town feel,” says Lynn Tillotson, CEO of the Greater Portland Maine Convention & Visitors Bureau. “It’s really a vibrant city with a wonderful mix of a working waterfront, an old port, independent shops, and nationally-recognized restaurants.”

NIGHTLIFE Have a few drinks at The Pearl on Fore Street, hit up Bubba’s Sulky Lounge – voted the city’s top dance club – or reserve a private VIP area at 51 Nightclub, where private security and a VIP host will look after you. You can also keep it casual with beer, steak, and hearty Irish tunes at Bull Feeney’s.

On the first Friday evening of every month, Portland’s artists, galleries, and arts venues open for the First Friday Art Walk.

You can meet the artists, take in a theater performance, and even purchase discounted pieces.

Venues all over the city feature live music – like Port City Music Hall and State Theatre – and you can usually cheer for a few buskers in Post Office Park.

DINING “Portland’s been put on the map for our amazing restaurants – from little spots to grab a fresh lobster roll and places to sit with fishermen and eat a hearty breakfast,

16

to five-star restaurants with James Beard award-winning chefs,” says Tillotson.

Bon Appétit magazine dubbed Portland the “Foodiest Small Town in America,” and top-rated restaurants include Zapoteca, Fore Street, Street and Company, five fifty-five, Hugo’s, Petit Jaqueline, and Eventide Oyster Co. You can even take a trolley ride to explore new tastes at five locations around the city.

Beer lovers can enjoy tastings and tours at breweries like Shipyard, Gritty’s, Allagash, and New England Distilling.

top symphony orchestras of its size in the country.

CULTURE The Portland Museum of Art is one of the leading museums in the country for such a small city. The Winslow Homer Studio – one of the most significant locations in the history of American art – is where the artist Winslow Homer lived and painted many of his masterpieces until his death in 1910.

The Portland Symphony Orchestra is the largest performing arts organization in Maine, and is widely regarded as one of the

PARKS Post Office Park is a cute spot with benches in the heart of Portland – perfect for enjoying a hot coffee and people-watching. If you really want to stretch your legs, Eastern Promenade is a 68-acre park with playgrounds, walking trails, baseball fields, basketball courts, and tennis courts. Wander around the farmers’ market at Deering Oaks, admire the rose garden, or feed the ducks at the “duck motel.”

SHOPPING With the famous fashion outlets just half an hour away in Freeport, Portland prides itself on having intimate boutiques and shops in their Old Port shopping district.

Shop the Arts District around Congress Street and Monument Square, pick up souvenirs on Commercial Street, or browse for outfits and accessories in the shops on Exchange Street.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism Opposite page Left Cherry blossoms blow by the front of First Parish Church in Portland Middle Petite Jacqueline restaurant Top right Musicians

from the Portland Symphony Orchestra performing

Maine Invites You! and we provide the warm welcome.

Bottom right Crooked

Mile Cafe

TRANSIT “Portland is a very comfortable city, where you could easily walk from one end to the other in about 20 minutes,” says Tillotson.

The ferry docks in the heart of downtown Portland, where you can wander up and down the cobblestone streets. There’s also a METRO bus system where you can hop on and off to explore at your own pace – and the bus even uses “green” fuel.

Below Lobster dinner

on a plate in front of Portland Harbor

FAMILY ACTIVITIES The Children’s Museum & Theatre of Maine is one of Portland’s top family destinations, with a soft-play Toddler Park for little ones and plenty of exhibits to interest older kids. Try for strikes and spares at Bayside Bowl, go on a bicycle tour with Summer Feet Cycling, take a train ride with the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Company, or go everyone sailing from Portland Harbor through the waters of Casco Bay.

portland’s only AAA 4-diamond rating surrounded by local botiques,shops and attractions in the old port district eclectic cuisine from our acclaimed restaurant, eve’s at the garden convenient, indoor valet parking

portlandharborhotel.com CALL TODAY: 888.798.9090 468 FORE STREET PORTLAND, ME 04101

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

17

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

PHOTOS

HALIFAX

Scott Munn Left Enjoying a glass of wine at

“Halifax is a modern city with a thriving art, theater, and music community,” says Patrick Sullivan, CEO of the Nova Scotia Tourism Agency. “The downtown area is compact, walkable, and filled with locally-owned cafés, restaurants, pubs, and bars – perfect for pub-hopping.”

Obladee Wine Bar

NIGHTLIFE Stroll along Halifax’s historic waterfront to watch the buskers or admire the tall ships.

Zip along the boardwalk on a Segway PT or a rickshaw, and stop in at Casino Nova Scotia for a few hands of Blackjack.

Hit the dance floor at Durty Nelly’s, hoist a pint at The Old Triangle, listen to a little blues at Bearly’s, or sip wine and nibble charcuterie at Obladee Wine Bar. Make it a true Halifax night by topping it off with a donair – the city’s world-famous spicy beef pita with sweet milky sauce – at Pizza Corner, at the intersection of Blowers and Grafton. Don’t forget to try an order of poutine, because you’ve never truly experienced french fries until you’ve had them covered with gravy and melted cheese curds.

CULTURE The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia is the largest art museum in Atlantic Canada, with more than 15,000 works in the permanent collection – including the restored house of Maud Lewis.

Learn about Halifax’s Titanic connection at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, or take in a performance at Neptune Theatre – Atlantic Canada’s largest professional regional theater.

The Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo is the world’s largest annual indoor show, and takes place in Halifax July 1 to July 8 this year – complete with bagpipes, dancers, acrobatic acts, and trampoline routines.

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DINING “Halifax’s restaurant scene continues to thrive, as first-rate chefs draw on their global expertise – and the produce from local farmers – to create unique culinary offerings,” says Sullivan.

Try fresh-from-the-water seafood at The Five Fisherman, The Press Gang, or Baton Rouge. Sit down for a tasty meal made with local ingredients at Chives Canadian Bistro, Brooklyn Warehouse, or Saege Bistro, or enjoy a decadent dinner at da Maurizi. Chow down on hearty pub food at Your Father’s Moustache, or try a divine pizza at Salvatore’s Pizzaiolo Trattoria. The Wooden Monkey is famous for their vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options, and burger enthusiasts love the peanut-butter burger at Darrell’s.

Top right Buskers performing in

downtown Halifax Bottom right Enjoy a pint at Durty Nelly’s Irish Pub

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

SHOPPING Spring Garden Road has more than 200 shops offering everything from jewelry, shoes, and fashions to gifts and home decor.

Duggers carries exclusive brands of menswear and has an on-site tailor for alterations. Mills is a high-end department store carrying brands like Michael by Michael Kors, Trina Turk, Judith & Charles, and Dennis Merotto. Jennifer’s of Nova Scotia is the city’s top spot for Atlantic Canadian handcrafts, and Duly Noted specializes in couture stationery.

PHOTO

Scott Munn Above The Royal Nova Scotia

International Tattoo

PARKS Point Pleasant Park is 190 acres of breathtaking scenery, with winding trails and a beachfront. The Halifax Public Gardens are one of North America’s finest surviving examples of a Victorian garden – with a bandstand, fountains, statues, and wrought iron gates enclosing exotic and semi-tropi-

cal trees, shrubs, and flowers. Get a workout hiking up Citadel Hill, and watch the Royal Artillery fire the gun every day at noon.

TRANSIT Halifax is an accessible, walkable city with nearly two miles (three kilometres) of boardwalk that takes you all along the waterfront. Hop on a Metro Transit bus to take you all over the city – and to outlying areas – or jump aboard the ferry to travel across the harbor between Halifax and Dartmouth.

FAMILY ACTIVITIES The Discovery Centre is Halifax’s hands-on science center, with a Bubble Room, LEGO building center, life-sized suspension bridge, and build-your-own roller coaster exhibit, or you can take in a concert or sporting event at the Halifax Metro Centre.

Naval Museum of Halifax Musée naval d’Halifax

HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRES more comfort for your dollar FREE PARKING • on-site RESTAURANT

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GUEST ROOMS* *Must present ad at check in. Not applicable to other discounts.

Halifax location only.

Admiralty House 2729 Gottingen Street; Stadacona; Halifax, NS • 902 721-8250 www.psphalifax.ca/marcommuseum Open 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM, Monday to Friday.

The largest collection of Royal Canadian Navy artifacts in the country.

Medals, ships’ bells, uniforms, ship models and more in informative displays.

20

30 Fairfax Drive, Halifax NS B3S 1P1

1-800-565-0700 www.futureinns.com STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

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ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

Artsy Shores TO EXPLORE

BY Pamela Delaney

PAINTERS ABOUND, BUT NOVA SCOTIA ALSO INSPIRES PHOTOGRAPHERS, LUTHIERS, SCULPTORS, AND OTHER CREATIVE GENIUSES Places of great beauty draw the esthetes to their shores, towns and wilderness areas, becoming muses to artists; Nova Scotia is no exception. It’s easy to see why: the majesty of the sea, the serenity of mountains, the variability of skies. Just a short walk from the Yarmouth ferry terminal are two galleries, the western branch of the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia at 341 Main Street, with permanent and touring exhibits, and an artist-run co-operative, Waterfront Gallery, at 90 Water Street.

Nova Scotia boasts painters of great note, such as Alex Colville (1920-2013), the “precisionist” who painted the haunting “Horse and Train”, and a moody piece set at the Acadians’ “French Cross”. Colville remains one of Canada’s most famous artists, and while his originals are now hard to obtain, limited edition prints are available at numerous galleries, including Wolfville’s (where Colville lived) Harvest Gallery.

Another provincial treasure, witty, whimsical folk artist, Maud Lewis (19031970), began her career painting Christmas cards. Her “Three Black Cats” stands as one of her most recognized pieces. The house where she painted during her married life has been fully restored and is part of the Maud Lewis Gallery permanent collection at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, Halifax. This public gallery is the recent

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

recipient of a large cache of Annie Leibovitz photographs.

Painters abound, but Nova Scotia also inspires photographers, luthiers, sculptors, and other creative geniuses.

Creating fused glass tableware, giftware and home accents out of crushed stained glass (see cover image) has put Sharon McNamara and Paul Palango of Kiln Art on the map in Chester Basin, and around the world. Still going strong after 14 years, the couple opened a retail store, Chez Glass Lass, in Chester to sell their one-of-a-kind creations. Kiln Art can also be found at select retail stores across Canada and the U.S., and they ship all over the world.

Forbes Christie is a master flute-maker based in Shelburne, who, with his wife Yola, a silversmith, creates among the most coveted, and artistic, flutes in the world at Windward Flutes; their studio is open to the public. Across the province in Granville Ferry (Annapolis Royal) is a modest red building that houses an in-demand shoemaker; Fred Longtin custom-makes shoes for Broadway productions. John Gray, at www.bespoke.com, handcrafts footwear for the rest of us!

The Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University, 5163 Duke Street in Halifax, opens its doors to gallery gazers, as do the galleries of universities with vibrant

fine arts programs, such as Dalhousie and Mount Saint Vincent in Halifax, and Acadia in Wolfville.

Based in Kings County (Wolfville area), but expanding this year, is Uncommon Common Art, an alliance of conceptual artists. Each summer members create three-dimensional art and place it in unlikely settings: at roadsides, on fences, in parking lots, and in fields. An annual map is produced, found at www.uncommoncommonart.com Founder and director Terry Drakos is still deeply involved, and Canning-based photographer Ernest Cadegan shoots the installations. Cadegan’s photographic work is easily identifiable, engaging iconic images of rural Nova Scotia, such as sheep in a field, crows on wires, or horses dining at a hay trough; using artistic intervention, he transforms his beautifully composed photographs into framable art.

Cadegan’s involvement with Uncommon Common Art has been rewarding. “This is one of the most interesting, original displays of art in the entire province,” he says.

“It’s stimulating to be involved with it.”

The Atlantic coast’s beauty means it is littered with galleries supporting local talents. The Osprey Arts Centre in Shelburne is primarily a theatre, but hosts revolving art showings in its lobby. The region’s arti-

23

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

“THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING, ORIGINAL DISPLAYS OF ART IN THE ENTIRE PROVINCE. IT’S STIMULATING TO BE INVOLVED WITH IT.” Ernest Cadegan, Photographer

sans are proudly displayed at Coastline Gallery and Focus Gallery. A unique display of practical artwork is found at Port Roseway Wood Creations, featuring a master dory builder and woodcrafter.

The Northumberland Shore offers a plethora of private studio/galleries showing in-house artist’s works, and a few multi-artist spots, such as Tidnish Bridge Art Gallery Co-op, and, in Antigonish, Down to Earth Gallery and Lyghtesome Gallery.

Cape Breton, too, sports galleries galore, including Inverness County Centre for the Arts, The Water’s Edge Gallery in Baddeck, and Arts North in Cape North. It is also home to Michique Handbags, that have wowed Hollywood celebrities and even royalty for their unique design and beauty.

From Yarmouth to Cape Breton Highlands, visitors find natural and created beauty at every glance. It’s an inherent part of the provincial identity, inspiring locals and visitors alike.

PHOTOS

Jim Waldrum Left Situated near Grand Pré, this piece was created by Nicole Evans and Pat Farrell.

Top right, bottom right and bottom Art for

sale at the Harvest Gallery in Wolfville

June Deveau Galerie Studio

Inspiration to Creation Looking for an authentic cultural experience?

Join artist June Deveau and explore the traditions of Acadie through various art forms. Create a keepsake of your own! Visits to cultural locations included.

Thursdays 1pm - 4:30pm $75 per person Special rates for groups of 6 or more. Reservations Required.

7236 route 1, Saint-Alphonse Digby Co., Nova Scotia, Canada B0W2J0

Phone: 902-645-3106 junedeveau.com 24

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

BOUTIQUES & BARGAINS

in Maine

THANKS TO ITS RICH SEAFARING HERITAGE, MAINE IS BLESSED WITH AN ABUNDANCE OF ANTIQUE SHOPS AND FLEA MARKETS

BY Hilary Nangle

Did somebody say shopping? Sure, Maine has the requisite malls and chain stores, but it’s also a bonanza for those seeking artisan-made goods, antiques, specialty foods, designer duds, unique gifts, and bonafide bargains. Here are a few suggestions to get started, but rise to the thrill of the hunt. Be sure to venture into smaller villages and mosey down byways for Eureka! finds.

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Unique boutiques: Independent boutiques and specialty stores salt Portland’s downtown peninsula. Engage your inner fashionista at Carla’s, Hélène M., or Tavecchia; drool over culinary must-haves at LeRoux Kitchen or condiments at Vervacious; peruse nationally known designer Angela Adam’s vibrant home furnishings; savor Dean’s Sweets handcrafted chocolates; top

off an outfit at the Queen of Hats; create the perfect scent at 2 Note Perfumery; or pad over to Planet Dog for the ultimate souvenir for your pooch.

Beyond Portland, concentrations of indie shops crowd Kennebunk’s Lower Village and the fishing shacks-turned-boutiques of Kennebunkport’s Dock Square; Bath, named a Distinctive Destination by the Na-

25

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

PHOTOS

Michele Stapleton Previous page Left and right Check out Maine Sea Bags

for the perfect tote Centre Exchange Street in Portland’s Old Port, one of the most popular shopping streets in Maine This Page Left Thos. Moser Showroom in Portland, ME Right Portland designer, Jill McGowan has built

a reputation for must-have white shirts

ARTISTS AND ARTISANS HAVE DRAWN INSPIRATION FROM MAINE’S SCENERY FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY. tional Trust for its well preserved Victorian downtown; Damariscotta and Hallowell, both river towns with a handful of intriguing shops sprinkling their main streets; tony Camden, notching the mid-coast where the mountains meet the sea; Belfast, which offers an quirky mix of arts, antiques, and funky specialty shops; and, increasingly, the “downeast” destination of Eastport.

Trash and treasures: Thanks to its rich seafaring heritage, Maine is blessed with an abundance of antiques shops and flea markets, with goods ranging from museum-quality to from-my-basement-toyour-attic finds. More than 25 independent and group antiques shops litter Route 1 in Wells, with R. Jorgensen Antiques a must for true aficionados. Wiscasset and Searsport, both busy seaports during the grand era of sail, offer choice picking for connoisseurs, while Cornish, folded into the White Mountain foothills, attracts both amateurs and dealers to its village shops. Tools fill 26

every nook and cranny of Liberty Tools, a pilgrimage destination for tradespeople, collectors, renovators, and home hobbyists.

Play finders keepers at Portland’s Flea-forAll, Montsweag Flea Market in Woolwich and the flea market and group shops in Brunswick’s renovated Fort Andros.

Arts & crafts: Artists and artisans have drawn inspiration from Maine’s scenery for more than a century. Galleries line the main and side streets in Portland’s Arts District and in downtown Rockland, both of which hold monthly art walks. Thanks to the Haystack Mountain School of Craft, the Blue Hill and Deer Isle region is especially fertile ground for potters, weavers, blacksmiths, and furniture makers. Don’t miss touring Haystack’s campus or bidding in its summer auctions. Millinocket’s North Light Gallery specializes in the art of Maine’s mountain-and-lake-splashed interior. Browse works by Maine Craft Guild members while filling both tank and

tummy at the West Gardiner Service Plaza, convenient to both the Maine Turnpike and I-295. Set sail for Monhegan Island, where summering artists frequently offer studio-gallery hours.

Bargain bonanzas: Gigunda retailer L.L. Bean put Freeport on America’s shopping map, and scores of brand-name outlets followed. Hit the big names, but don’t ignore the nearly two-dozen Maine company stores. For starters, shop Bean’s Outlet for discounted merchandise; Brahms Mount and Maine Woolens for to-die-for woven blankets; Jill McGowan for must-have white shirts; Maine Sea Bags for the perfect tote; Wilbur’s for delicious chocolates; or Georgetown Pottery for Maine-crafted porcelain wares. More outlets await in Kittery, where the Kittery Trading Post anchors more than a 120 big name factory outlets spread along Route 1. Two homegrown discount chains worth a look-see are Reny’s, a department store that accurately describes itself as a Maine adventure, and Marden’s, where the slogan – you should have bought it when you saw it – reflects the ever-changing inventory.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

THE

who’s who Maine

AND

OF

Nova Scotia

BY Bruce Bishop

IF YOU’RE NOT LUCKY ENOUGH TO BE A NATIVE, YOU CAN ALWAYS DO AS THE CELEBRITIES DO – BECOME A PART TIME RESIDENT

Ahhhh. The lure of a seacoast, whether it be in New England or in the Atlantic Provinces. There is something indefinable about why we are attracted to the typically cold ocean water, the salt air, rocky shores or sandy beaches, and of course, the seemingly endless bounty of the sea.

Yet those of us who live by the Atlantic Ocean may complain of too much fog, occasional bad winter storms, and the drawbacks of rural living – but imagine how big-city dwellers living in crowded, urban jungles feel in the height of summer.

The grass is always greener on the other side, indeed.

We decided we wanted to see just who – famously speaking, of course – was either specifically from Maine or Nova Scotia, and who decided to live here, either full or part time. (For good measure, we’ve also included a few famous folk who have already passed on to their permanent, heavenly beach playground.) The list is by no means all-conclusive, but let’s have fun rubbing shoulders with our noteworthy neighbors from the past and present!

The Town of Amherst, Nova Scotia is a two hour drive from Nova Scotia’s capital Halifax, a one hour drive from Prince Edward Island and a forty minute drive from Moncton, New Brunswick. Throughout Amherst you can’t help but notice the exceptional stone structures and historical homes making Amherst a must see site for tourists.

Amherst will be celebrating 125 years as an incorporated town throughout 2014. The town will host multiple events during the year; event updates can be found at www.amherst.ca or follow us on Twitter @Amherst125.

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ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

FAMOUS PERSON

PROFESSION

PLACE of BIRTH

PART or FULL TIME RESIDENCE

Alan Arkin

Actor

Brooklyn, NY

Margaree, NS

F. Lee Bailey

Criminal Attorney

Waltham, MA

Yarmouth, ME

Alexander G. Bell

Inventor (d. 1922)

Edinburgh, Scotland

Baddeck, NS

Trevor Berbick

Boxer (d. 2006)

Jamaica, W.I.

Halifax, NS

George Bush Sr.

41st President

Milton, MA

Kennebunkport, ME

George Canyon

Musician

New Glasgow, NS

Hopewell, NS

Capt. Aaron Churchill

Businessman (d. 1920)

Yarmouth, NS

Yarmouth, NS

Sidney Crosby

Hockey Player

Halifax, NS

Cole Harbour, NS

Bette Davis

Actress (d. 1989)

Lowell, MA

Cape Elizabeth, ME

Patrick Dempsey

Actor

Lewiston, ME

Harpswell, ME

Denny Doherty

Musician/Actor (d. 2007)

Halifax, NS

Halifax, NS

Cyrus Eaton

Philanthropist (d. 1979)

Pugwash, NS

Blandford, NS

John Ford

Movie Director (d. 1973)

Cape Elizabeth, ME

Portland, ME

Alfred “Fuller Brush” Fuller

Entrepreneur (d. 1973)

Welsford, NS

Yarmouth, NS

Philip Glass

Composer

Baltimore, MD

Cape Breton, NS

Richard Hatch

TV Reality Star

Newport, RI

Sydney, NS

Ethan Hawke

Actor

Austin, TX

Tracadie, NS

Winslow Homer

Painter (d. 1910)

Boston, MA

Prouts Neck, ME

Alexander Keith

Brewmaster (d. 1873)

Halkirk, Scotland

Halifax, NS

Anna Kendrick

Actress

Portland, ME

Portland, ME

Stephen King

Author

Portland, ME

Bangor, ME

Henry W. Longfellow

Poet/Author (d. 1882)

Portland, ME

Portland, ME

Andrea Martin

Actress/Comedienne

Portland, ME

n/a

Al MacInnis

Hockey Player (Hall of Fame)

Inverness, NS

n/a

Ashley MacIsaac

Musician

Creignish, NS

n/a

Natalie MacMaster

Musician

Troy, NS

n/a

Rita MacNeil

Songwriter/Singer (d. 2013)

Big Pond, NS

Sydney, NS

Daniel McIvor

Playwright

Sydney, NS

n/a

Sarah McLachlan

Musician

Halifax, NS

n/a

Don McLean

Musician

New Rochelle, NY

Camden, ME

Anne Murray

Singer/Musician

Springhill, NS

Wallace, NS

Sir Christopher Ondaaje

Author

Sri Lanka

Chester, NS

Ellen Page

Actress

Halifax, NS

n/a

Annie Proulx

Author

Norwich, CT

Portland, ME

Nelson Rockefeller

Politician (d. 1979)

Bar Harbor, ME

n/a

Hank Snow

Songwriter/Singer (d. 1999)

Brooklyn, NS

Liverpool, NS

Edna St. Vincent Millay

Poet/Playwright (d. 1950)

Rockland, ME

Casco Bay. ME

Donald Sutherland

Actor

Saint John, NB

Bridgewater, NS

John Travolta

Actor

Englewood, NJ

Islesboro, ME

Andrew Wyeth

Painter (d. 2009)

Chadds Ford, PA

Cushing, ME

Martha Stewart

Entrepreneur

Jersey City, NJ

Seal Harbor, ME

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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ATLANTIC CANADA New Brunswick Nova Scotia Prince Edward Island

NEW ENGLAND Connecticut Maine

Massachusetts New Hampshire

Rhode Island Vermont

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

NOVEL

reads

BY Jon Tattrie

SOME OF OUR MOST FAMOUS NOVELISTS CALL NEW ENGLAND AND ATLANTIC CANADA HOME The New England and Atlantic Canadian cultures are so similar that some of the world’s most popular books are set in the former and filmed in the latter.

Local Portland, Maine, author Stephen King has thrilled millions with his novels about sewer clowns, demonic dogs and angry prom dates. Most are set in the fictional Maine towns of Castle Rock and Derry.

But when it comes time to make a film or television adaptation, real Nova Scotia towns often stand in for their fictional counterparts.

Bag of Bones was set in Maine, but the movie was filmed across Nova Scotia.

Haven, based on The Colorado Kid, is filmed in Lunenburg, as were parts of Dolores Claiborne.

Mike Hamm, manager of BookMark on Spring Garden Road in Halifax, loves Nova Scotia books and often displays them in his shop window.

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“Atlantic Canada has always been a bridge between the old world and the new.

Traditions carried from cultures long established brushed shoulders with fresh ideas, whether they be political or personal, individual or communal,” he says.

This “social experiment” is enhanced by the geographical isolation and the often brutal weather. Whatever they’re writing about, Atlantic Canadian authors encounter rugged coasts, furious seas and harsh winters.

“Our unique human nature has pulled us together out of necessity and a desire to share and celebrate, to tell and write stories that explain and connect us. For such a small population, our province of Nova Scotia has produced a resounding body of literature that speaks to the larger world,” he says.

Hamm selected 10 books he recommends for anyone wanting to learn about Nova Scotia: 1. NO GREAT MISCHIEF (Alistair MacLeod) 2. AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF NOVA SCOTIA (Harry Bruce) 3. SHATTERED CITY (Janet Kitz) 4. YOU MIGHT BE FROM NOVA SCOTIA IF… (Michael de Adder) 5. OUT OF OLD NOVA SCOTIA KITCHENS (Marie Nightingale) 6. THE ACADIANS OF NOVA SCOTIA (Sally Rose and Alphonse Deveau) 7. ROCKBOUND (Frank Day) 8. THE BOOK OF NEGROES (Lawrence Hill) 9. BLUENOSE GHOSTS (Helen Creighton) 10. SIX MI’KMAQ STORIES (Ruth Whitehead)

BEAR RIVER The Tidal Village bearriver.ca/visit/

1 hour from Yarmouth on Hwy 101, Exit 24

Artists’ Studios Wineries Museum Unique Shops Eateries Accommodation WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

33

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

PHOTO

Devaan Ingraham Mike Hamm, manager of BookMark

His recommendations cover Nova Scotia.

An Illustrated History of Nova Scotia is full of maps, archival photos and sidebars to make your visit come alive. Out of Old Nova Scotia Kitchens is the classic cookbook from the province.

One of Hamm’s personal favorite’s is No Great Mischief, which is the only novel by one of the world’s best short story writers, Cape Breton’s Alistair MacLeod.

“It is simply the book that best conjures the magic of Cape Breton. In the mines and the forests, families struggle to provide the necessities in a hard life,” he says.

“However, the author’s words are lyrics that sing of the sheer beauty of the island, its people and their dreams. This novel is soft and jagged and will truly haunt you.”

Other big sellers are The Birth House by Ami McKay, The Shipping News by E. Annie Proix and The Republic of Nothing, a novel of rural Nova Scotia by Lesley Choyce.

For a Mi’kmaq perspective on Atlantic Canada, start with Dan Paul’s landmark work, We Were Not the Savages. To capture

34

some of that ancient oral tradition, check out the poetry of Rita Joe. She’s often called the poet laureate of the Mi’kmaq people.

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow is one of Maine’s best poets and one of his most important works redefined Acadian culture in Atlantic Canada. The 1755 Deportation was the subject of his epic poem, Evangeline.

Its promise of a “forest primeval” brought thousands of Americans to Grand Pré, N.S., an area now known as the Land of Evangeline.

New England offers wonderful literary tours. Visiting the homes and museums of classic writers offers a window into the world in which they created their legendary books.

• The Harriet Beecher Stowe Centre Uncle Tom’s Cabin, by Harriet Beecher Stowe. Also set in the south and written in the north. The Harriet Beecher Stowe Centre is also in Hartford, Connecticut.

• Mark Twain House & Museum The Adventures of Tom Sawyer; The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, by Mark Twain. Both are famously set in the south, but were written in Hartford, Connecticut, where you can visit Mark Twain House & Museum.

For a taste of current New England writing, try Islands of Time by Barbara Kent Lawrence.

• The Robert Frost Farm Frost’s poem The Road Not Taken resonates deeply today, with its famous lines about the road “less traveled by.” The farm in Derry, New Hampshire, recreates the rural idyll that inspired the man.

• Herman Melville House The author of Moby Dick wrote his famous book in this house in Pittsfield, Mass.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

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ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

Quirky MAINE YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU WILL FIND OFF THE BEATEN PATH

BY Hilary Nangle

Been there, done that when it comes to Maine’s museums and heritage sites?

Think again. Slip off the usual tourist paths to fine these 10 engaging, if perhaps quirky, experiences.

An eight-foot-tall Bigfoot likeness greets visitors at the International Cryptozoology Museum, which is dedicated to the story of hidden animals such as the Loch Ness monster and the abominable snowman.

Displays include skulls and footprint castings that lend credence to the existence of these rumored beasts, as well as kitsch like movie props and souvenir memorabilia.

(11 Avon St., Portland, 207-518-9496, www.cryptozoologymuseum.com) Nancy 3. Hoffman (yes, 3) displays her Guinness World Record-holding collection numbering 730-and-growing umbrella covers (yup, umbrella covers) at her homebased Umbrella Cover Museum on Peaks Island. Most visits end with Hoffman singing and playing “Let a Smile be Your Umbrella” on her accordion. (207-7664496, www.umbrellacover¬museum.org) Musical paintings and furnishings are just a few of the rarities in the Musical Wonder House’s eclectic, if not eccentric,

36

collection. More than 5,000 19th-century European music boxes, player pianos, and musical rarities are displayed in a 32-room 1852 sea captain’s mansion. (18 High St., Wiscasset, 207-882-7163, www.musicalwonderhouse.com) Indulge your inner child at the Maine Antique Toy and Art Museum, home to an extensive collection of antique toys and original comic art geared to nostalgic adults, not kids. Among the residents are Mickey Mouse, Betty Boop, Felix the Cat, and Yoda. (Rte. 1, Waldoboro, 207-8327398, www.gwi.net/~fawcetoy) Words can’t do justice to Bryant Stove and Music. Flip a switch and the Doll Circus comes alive with dolls dancing, marching, swinging, turning, and twisting to music. Too girly? Beyond it are a small-engine room with miniature working steam engines; music displays with working player pianos, nickelodeons, jukeboxes, organs, barrel pianos, and hurdy-gurdies; and antique stoves and automobiles.

(27 Stovepipe Alley, Thorndike, 207-5683665, www.bryantstove.com) Don’t let the exterior of the serene, white clapboard, circa-1842 New England-style

South Solon Meeting House fool you.

Inside, it’s a riot of color and art. Back in the 1950s, fresco artists selected by the Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture painted nearly every square inch of wall and ceiling with interdenominational religious scenes. (www.southsolonmeetinghouse. org) Offbeat doesn’t begin to describe the L.C. Bates Museum, a way-cool, way-retro treasure chest with a broadly eclectic collection focusing on natural history. Among the gems in the dozen or so rooms are wildlife dioramas, hundreds of mounted rare birds, priceless Native American artifacts, and a trophy marlin caught by Ernest Hemingway. (Rte. 201, Hinckley, 207-238-4250, www.gwh.org) Fly-Rod Crosby, recipient of Maine’s first Registered Maine Guide license; fly-tier Carrie Stevens; taxidermist, painter, and angler Herb Welch, and boatbuilder Herbie Ellis are among the local luminaries honored at the Rangeley Outdoor Sporting Heritage Museum, which highlights the Rangeley Lakes region’s rich sporting heritage. (Rte. 17, Oquossoc Village, 207-8645647, www.rangeleyoutdoormuseum.org)

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

PHOTOS

Hilary Nangle Top row

Maine Solar System Model Second row

South Solon Meeting House Third row

Ambajejus Boom House Fourth row Left The Musical Wonder House Centre Rangeley Outdoor Museum Right L. C. Bates Museum

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

37

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

Dip into Maine’s logging heritage at the Ambajejus Boom House, a National Historic Register property lovingly restored by former river driver Chuck Harris and filled with lumbering-era artifacts. The boom house, erected in 1906 on the shores of Ambajejus Lake near Millinocket, was used as a rest stop for 65 years by river drivers.

These lumbermen “boomed out” (collected with immense chains) and rode logs downstream to the sawmills. The only access is via canoe or floatplane. New England Outdoor Center rents canoes and offers guided trips (207-723-5438, www.neoc.com).

Interplanetary travel is possible with the Maine Solar System Model, which stretches 40 miles along Route 1 in Aroostook County. The 93-million-to-one, three-dimensional scale model comprises the sun, planets, dwarf planets, and moons for Earth, Saturn, Jupiter, and Pluto. All of the major planets are large enough to be seen while driving along Route 1, where one mile is equal to the distance between Earth and the sun, and the speed of light is 7 mph. (pages.umpi.edu/~nmms/solar)

PHOTO

Hilary Nangle Maine Solar System Model along Route 1 in Aroostook County

Our Stars Light the Way Find a Canada Select rated accommodation in Atlantic Canada Visit www.canadaselect.com for Atlantic Canada’s largest database of quality rated accommodations

Since 1992

38

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

The lighting of the Christmas tree in downtown Boston is more than just a simple holiday ritual. The giant Nova Scotia evergreen tree that illuminates the heart of the Boston Common every December is a symbol of a friendship that has endured for centuries. Each tree is chosen as part of a careful selection process, ceremonially cut and carefully shipped to Massachusetts via truck as a thank you gesture for a neighborly act.

The First World War touched Halifax like no other city in North America. When a freighter named the Mont Blanc, packed with explosives bound for the Western Front, collided with another vessel in Halifax Harbour in 1917, the resulting explosion flattened the north end of the city, killed more than 2,000 people outright and wounded thousands more. With a December blizzard settling in and homeless, injured and dazed citizens looking for help in the explosion’s aftermath, the tragedy seemed on the verge of getting even worse

40

when a late evening train arrived in Halifax.

The people of Boston, hearing of their Canadian neighbor’s plight, had packed the train with blankets, medicines, food, tents and, most importantly, doctors and nurses.

The gift of a Christmas tree to Boston is Nova Scotia’s annual acknowledgement of that kind act.

In fact, Nova Scotia exports nearly $2 million in Christmas trees to the state of Massachusetts every year, and a further $5 million worth to the rest of the United States. In addition to the tree placed on the Boston Common, smaller trees are donated to charities in the Boston area.

Nova Scotian-grown Christmas trees are a recognized brand in New England one of the more visible links in a chain of trade that includes retail and consumer products, foods, manufactured goods and a strong tradition of cross-border shopping. When it comes to business, the ties between Maritime Canada and New England run deep.

In terms of sheer volume, seafood is

Nova Scotia’s most important export to New England, says Troy Sawler, trade development executive with Nova Scotia Business Inc. (NSBI). Seafood along with rubber products – mostly in the form of tires produced at the province’s three Michelin tire plants – account for about half of Nova Scotia’s exports. And one particular seafood commodity stands head and shoulders above the rest – fresh Nova Scotia lobster. The tasty crustacean is an essential delicacy in restaurants and dinner tables across New England.

Sawler says it’s hard to underestimate the importance of New England as a trading partner for Nova Scotia. “New England is a huge market for us. Maintaining a strong business relationship with the region is a major priority for NSBI.” Geography is the strongest and most obvious tie that binds the two regions. New England and Nova Scotia are only separated by the Gulf of Maine – a calm seaway that makes it easy to ship by water. But

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ART, CULTURE & SHOPPING

“OUR CULTURAL AND TRADITIONAL TIES RUN DEEP. NOVA SCOTIA HAS A STRONG FAMILY CONNECTION WITH NEW ENGLAND.” Troy Sawler, NSBI

there is a deeper symbiosis, rooted in three centuries of cross-migration, intermarriage and close cultural ties. From regional accents to traditional dishes to family surnames, New Englanders and Nova Scotians share the same close-knit origins. “Our cultural and traditional ties run deep,” says Sawler. “Nova Scotia has a strong family connection with New England.”

Families like Nova Scotia’s Surrette family are part of a long tradition of entrepreneurs who made their fortunes by focusing on the region’s strong connections. Four generations ago, the family with Acadian roots immigrated to New England where they founded the Surrette Battery company.

In the 1960s the Surrettes reestablished their company in Springhill, Nova Scotia, where it still operates.

It’s a relationship that works both ways.

New England exports plenty of goods to Atlantic Canada as well, including consumer goods, heavy equipment, electronics products and – perhaps most surprisingly – ships and boats.

Today about one quarter of everything that Nova Scotia exports goes to New England and the U.S. Eastern Seaboard states.

It’s a business connection that is likely to continue into the era of globalization, says Sawler. “The two regions have come to think of each other as sources of high quality products and services. It’s a very strong trading relationship and it’s not going to change anytime soon.”

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

PHOTOS

CNS/ George Simhoni/ Chris Muise Page 39 The 15 metre (47 foot) white spruce is about 40 years old and will be the 42nd tree sent to Boston since the tradition began in 1971

By phone: 1.877.567.1117 On-line: www.clearwater.ca

Mail or phone orders shipped worldwide

Opposite page

Nova Scotian lobster is an essential delicacy in restaurants across New England This page

Nova Scotia’s Christmas Tree for Boston started its journey from Mill Cove, Lunenburg Co. to Boston on Nov. 12, 2013

• Buchan pottery • Merino wool • Scottish sweaters • Capes and serapes • Tartan clothing • Tartan dog scarves & coats • Burns Crystal • Men’s tweed caps • Highland dress sales & rental

41

FOOD AND DRINK

EAT LOCAL CALLING ALL FOOD LOVERS TO MAINE AND NOVA SCOTIA

BY Sandra Phinney

Want to experience something special?

Check. Taste something unique? Check.

Good; you’re in the right place.

Elise Richer, author of Always in Season: Twelve Months of Fresh Recipes from the Farmer’s Markets of New England, loves to celebrate farmer’s markets and the diversity they offer. “For example, honey vendors sell all types of honey – raw and unfiltered, with a chunk of beeswax, or in the little bear bottle to please your kids,” she says, adding, “there are often fiber vendors selling wonderful yarns that you would be hard-pressed to find in a brick-andmortar store!”

Writer and farmer Margaret Hathaway concurs. She owns and operates Ten Apple Farm with her family in Gray, Maine.

Aside from attending some pretty amazing markets, Hathaway points out, “You can pick your own produce for much of the year.

And there are celebrations of agriculture nearly every weekend, from Maple Sunday in March, to various blueberry festivals all

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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FOOD AND DRINK

Good Company,

Great Food

JJust ust a 5 w walk alk ffrom rom d downtown owntown & ffamous amous for its delicious seafood and deck with view overlooking Yarmouth’s waterfront • Outdoor Patio, overlooking marina • Specialize in Seafood • 2 minute walk from Ferry Terminal • Live entertainment 3 times a week • Micro brewery on site with beer store.

summer, to Open Creamery Day in October, to the Maine Brewers Festival in November.”

For a complete list of everything from farmer’s markets to specialty foods and restaurants that celebrate fresh/local, check out Eat Local Foods Coalition of Maine at www.eatmainefoods.org. In Nova Scotia, visit www.farmersmarketsnovascotia.ca.

Within a few feet of the ferry terminal in Nova Scotia, you’ll find the Yarmouth Farmer’s Market where you’ll meet Gary Kent, who started making food dressings in his kitchen. He now sells three varieties of Vincent Dressings in 27 outlets throughout the province. It’s a great product, and a great story. Two feet from him, Dan Earle is likely dishing out crepes. Dan loves to share recipes. These things don’t happen in big box stores!

Along with markets, U-Picks and food fairs, there are also places like Saltscapes Restaurant & General Store in Millbrook, where the meals are not only “down-homefresh-local” the shop is loaded with unique items produced only in Atlantic Canada.

For a walk on the wild side, sign up for a culinary course with Alain Bossé (a.k.a the Kilted Chef ) at his farm in Pictou. He’ll take you foraging, out to visit other farms (or fishers) then you’ll cook up a storm in his kitchen.

And that, dear reader, is just scratching the surface. Whatever time you’ve set aside for your trip, you may need to add more days on both sides of the border!

Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant & Brew Pub Open Daily 11am | Tel: 902-742-7311 96 Water Street, Yarmouth, NS 44

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

FOOD AND DRINK

RECIPES FROM MAINE Blueberry Soup Elise Richer 6 cups blueberries 3 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp lemon zest 1 stick cinnamon 3 tbsp sugar or honey 1/4 tsp salt 1 to 2 tbsp cornstarch mixed with 2 tbsp water 1/2 tsp vanilla 1 cup plain Greek yogurt unsweetened heavy cream, whipped or not, or more yogurt for serving Combine blueberries, lemon juice, lemon zest, cinnamon stick, sugar, salt, and 1 1/2 cups water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer gently for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until berries are completely tender. Whisk in cornstarch mixture and continue heating a few more minutes, until soup thickens slightly. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Let soup cool for 15 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick. Whisk in yogurt, and chill. Serve soup topped with a splash of cream or a dollop of whipped cream, or more yogurt.

(Note: The amount of cornstarch you use will determine the thickness, and the soup will set up more when chilled.)

Ruby’s Cucumbers with Yogurt Elise Richer 2 large cucumbers, peeled or unpeeled, cut in half lengthwise, seeded or not, to your taste 1/2 tsp salt 2 cups plain Greek yogurt 2 tsp chopped fresh oregano or 1/2 tsp dried 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp dried 1 small garlic clove, finely minced 1 tbsp lemon juice 1/2 tsp lemon zest 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper

46

Cut cucumbers in half lengthwise again (you will now have quarters) then cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Put in serving bowl and toss with a 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Add yogurt, herbs, garlic, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Mix gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir. Pour olive oil over mixture. Fold a few times to incorporate. Enjoy for breakfast with pita or another bread, or refrigerate and eat as a side dish.

Yankee Pot Roast Margaret Hathaway This bone-in neck roast is beloved by frugal New Englanders, who traditionally cook it all day in a slow oven, warming the house as it perfumes it.

Fry up some bacon and pour off some of the fat, then take a two- to four- pound neck roast, cover it with salt and pepper, and brown it in the bacon grease. Remove roast and sauté some onions and carrots. Put roast in a Dutch oven, fill with a mixture of stock and red wine, chunk up the bacon and throw it in, add the onions and carrots, rough cut some garlic cloves, throw a few sprigs of rosemary in, cover, and place in a 250˚F degree oven for the better part of the day. Devour the roast with side of baked potato.

Maple Bacon Baked Beans Margaret Hathaway 8 cups cannellini beans 1 1/2 pounds bacon, diced 1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced 1/2 tsp red chili flakes 3/4 to 1 cup maple syrup (adjust to taste) Sea salt and pepper to taste

RECIPES FROM NOVA SCOTIA Seafood Casserole Saltscapes Restaurant & General Store Begin by making a white wine cream sauce 2 oz onion 4 oz butter 4 oz flour 2 1/2 cups fish stock 1 cup white wine 2 1/2 cups 10% cream (half and half ) Salt and pepper Melt butter in sauce pan. Add diced onion, cook until translucent, then stir in flour for two minutes. Then add fish stock and white wine. Keep stirring until stock thickens.

Now add cream and season to taste.

Have the following ready: 10 oz haddock 6 oz scallops 6 oz shrimp 2 oz cheddar cheese (plus extra for topping) 2 oz mozzarella cheese (plus extra for topping) Lobster for topping Add seafood to sauce and simmer for six minutes. Stir in cheeses and simmer two more minutes. Pour into a casserole dish, top with extra cheeses and diced lobster meat. Cook at 350˚F for five to seven minutes.

Soak beans overnight. Cook bacon in stock pot until lightly crispy. Add onions to bacon fat. Cook until soft. Add chili flakes and drained beans. Add water to cover beans by three inches. Bring to a soft boil and cook, uncovered, over medium flame for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, adding more water if they begin to stick. Beans should thicken nicely as they cook. Finish with maple syrup, salt, and pepper to taste.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

FOOD AND DRINK

Spicy Butter Sauce Dan Earle This is a multi-use sauce that goes well with chicken, beef, pork and seafood. You can use as a marinade, coat meat/seafood with it before cooking, or brush over already cooked products.

2 tbsp olive oil 1/2 cup finely sliced green onions or leeks 1/4 cup dry white wine 1 tsp freshly chopped garlic 4 tbsp worcestershire sauce 1 tsp tobasco or hot sauce 1/2 tsp cayenne 1/2 tsp paprika 8 oz unsalted butter Add onions to oil in skillet and cook for about a minute. Add the white wine and simmer until reduced to half. Add the rest of the ingredients except butter. Mix and let cook for a minute of so. Then add butter until it melted and mixed. Taste. Add a bit of salt or more cayenne or hot sauce to personal preference.

Summer Strawberry Trifle Alain Bossé the Kilted Chef 2 full boxes strawberries, sliced (approx. four cups) 2 cups (500ml) whipping cream 1 1/2 tsp vanilla 1 can sweetened condensed milk 1 1/2 cups cold water 1 pkg vanilla pudding mix (6 serving size) 1 pound cake cubed 1/2 cup strawberry jam Whip cream with vanilla and refrigerate.

Mix condensed milk with water and pudding mix on low speed until well combined.

Refrigerate for 20 minutes then fold into whipping cream. Begin layering. Start with cream, then cake, half the preserves and half the berries, repeat ending with cream.

Refrigerate for four hours then serve.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

PHOTO

Sandra Phinney Spicy Butter Sauce

Yarmouth Farmers Community Market WE GROW IT. WE PRODUCE IT. WE MAKE IT. January to April & November to December: 9am - 1pm May to October: 8am - 1pm Summer Wednesdays June 25th to Sept. 3rd : 10am-3pm

15 Hawthorn St., Yarmouth www.yarmouthfarmersmarket.com

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GO BIG... or stay inside

Smack in the heart of Kentville are some of the best mountain bike trails in Nova Scotia.

Riders flock to The Gorge to experience rides like those who came before them to see Nova Scotia mountain biking at its best.

Experience the Gorge Named as one of the top 10 gems across Canada by Canadian Cycle Magazine, “The Gorge” sits on 65 acres of wooded land. The Gorge has something for every level of rider. Gentle, banked cruisers through sloped forest, twisty single track more suited to intermediate riders, and steep sections including both manmade and natural features, drop offs, elevated boardwalks and more.

The Gorge also features a skills park, one of only a few of its kind in Atlantic Canada. Visit Kentville’s 10 km of other groomed trails for more leisurely rides.

www.kentville.ca

Sponsored in part by Kentville Development Corporation Ltd.

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Something to

CROW ABOUT

FOUNDED IN 1750, THE HALIFAX SEAPORT FARMERS’ MARKET IS THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY-OPERATING FARMERS’ MARKET IN NORTH AMERICA.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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FOOD AND DRINK

PHOTOS

Sandra Phinney Previous page

Ella at the Seaport Bread Shop This page Top Fruition Raw Foods Middle Chef Darren in front of Wrap So D! Bottom Made With Local with their range of healthy snack foods

Founded in 1750, the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market is the oldest continuously-operating farmers’ market in North America (www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com). Over 250 vendors strut their stuff there, including Chef Darren who sings for his customers at Wrap So D! Ella at the Seaport Bread Shop always has a smile – and amazing bagels. Newer additions include Fruition (raw food bar), Made With Local (healthy snack foods), and Crowbar Real Foods (ohso-tasty vegan energy bars).

Want to experience other food highlights in the city? Sign up with Local Tasting Tours (www.localtastingtours.com). With a tag line that says “Take a bite out of Halifax,” you are in for a tasty adventure.

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Become enchanted by our unspoiled panoramic views; whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s from one of our many pristine white sand beaches, such as Lockeportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Famous Crescent Beach, strolling historic Dock Street in the Town of Shelburne, teeing off on our river side golf course, rowing a traditional dory at the Cape Sable Island Causeway or from the top of a majestic lighthouse.

We are the Lobster Capital of Canada and home to many fine dining seafood experiences. Explore our picturesque coastal destination, celebrate in our rich culture and heritage through our many fun filled festivals & events and experience southern hospitality at its best!

2 hours from Halifax & Digby less than an hour from Yarmouth

FOOD AND DRINK

FOODIES

Behold

SWEET OR SAVORY DISHES WILL SATISFY EVERY PALETTE

BY Sandra Phinney

52

Luciano Pavarotti once said, “One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.”

While traveling in Nova Scotia, devoting time to eating becomes a pleasure all of its own – worthy of an aria! From local cuisine and traditional foods to international fare, it’s all here.

Southwest Nova Scotia has a huge Acadian presence, so Râpure (a.k.a. Rappie Pie) is served in many restaurants. A traditional dish with zero eye appeal, it scores 10 out of 10 for flavor. Râpure is made with finely grated potatoes. The liquid is extracted, and replaced with chicken broth; onions, seasonings and cooked chicken are added; then it’s baked for three hours. Helen LeBlanc, “Queen of rappie pie,” has been serving it for 30 years at the Red Cap in Middle West Pubnico; her daughter, Trina, carries on with the tradition.

Further down the road, you’ll find Dennis Point Café. It’s situated across from one of the largest fishing fleets in the province, so any fish dish here is worth the stop, including the Hot Lobster Roll. Unlike most lobster rolls in Atlantic Canada (which, although tasty, are made with cold lobster salad), these are made with hot creamed lobster. Then again there’s the Hot Lobster Sandwich, (invented in Yarmouth/served on toast), and popular throughout the region.

Moving over to St. Mary’s Bay, La Cuisine Robicheau in Saulnierville serves traditional foods like fish cakes (and, yes, rappie pie!) along with a unique seafood lasagne.

Further up the coast is Digby, world-famous for its scallops. Choices are plentiful from scallop burgers at Ed’s Takeout, to an entrée of perfectly pan-seared scallops at the Digby Pines Golf Resort & Spa. Slipping over to the other side of the province, meet Chef Matthew Krizan at Mateus Bistro in Mahone Bay who won the prestigious Taste of Nova Scotia award for Restaurant of the Year (Chef Inspired Casual Dining). Krizan says, “The secret to our success is an ever-changing menu that is sculpted by the local farmers, bakers, butchers and winemakers of Nova Scotia.”

Looking for a place with a long history?

Shore Club Lobster Suppers in Hubbards are legendary. The club has served over one million suppers since 1946. Famous folk have eaten there, including Prince Charles and Lady Diana.

Of course, Halifax has every kind of eatery and food establishment imaginable, from food trucks to fine dining. One of the newest kids on the block is the Stubborn Goat Gastropub. Don’t expect everyone at your table to be served at the same time (food comes as soon as it’s ready) – but do expect to say “wow” a lot. Popular items include Shishito Peppers, Queseda Fondito, and an unusual Lobster Bisque. A few blocks over you’ll find Bistro Le Coq, which specializes in classic French cuisine with subtle twists, such as Bone Marrow – broiled veal bones with fig and blueberry jam.

Nectar, in Dartmouth, waltzed away with The Coast magazine’s 2013 Best Dartmouth Restaurant Food award – for the fifth year STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

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running. Weekend brunches (oh those crepes!) are hugely popular. Chef Stefan Bruchman has a penchant for sweets; “Banofee” and his “Decadent Chocolate Cake” are must-tries.

Speaking of sweets, Dobbit Bakehouse in Musquodoboit Harbour has everybody smiling. Boulanger Paul Nicholl churns out an impressive selection of breads, cakes, cookies, squares, and pastries. Their hottest item? A puffed pastry filled with high-test chocolate called Chocolate Knots.

In Cape Breton, the Red Shoe Pub in Mabou has a reputation all over the world for good food and live Celtic music! Over in Baddeck, you can enjoy everything from fine dining to great pub fare and creative offerings in street cafés and bistros. Many places serve old fashioned oatcakes – the best in Canada.

But you don’t have to travel the entire length of Nova Scotia to find great food. It’s as close as your nose. Just ask the locals.

PHOTOS

Scott Munn Previous page and above

The lobster roll at the Dennis Point Café Left Chef Stefan Bruchman of Nectar Restaurant

Fed Grain

True Steak Experience

All Canadian Beef We’re bringing hospitality & service back to the Valley Follow us on Twitter

54

Take Exit 12 off Hwy 101 • 5494 Prospect Road • New Minas Tel: (902) 678-3333 • www.3sonssteakhouse.ca

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Whether you choose Canada’s best tasting burger at Harvey’s or the perennial favourites on the menu at Swiss Chalet, you can’t go wrong!

9275 Commercial Street, Commercial Street Plaza, New Minas, NS HOURS: MONDAY - SATURDAY: 11:00AM TO 10:00PM SUNDAY: 11:00AM - 9:30PM

PHONE: 902-681-1761 STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

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SCOOP suds ON THE

MAINE BEER TRAIL: GOOD FOR WHAT ALES YOU

BY Hilary Nangle

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

Back in 1851, Maine was on the forefront of the growing temperance movement. Now it’s gaining national attention for its brewing renaissance. In 2012, Maine ranked sixth in the number of breweries per capita, and that was before the scene ignited. In early 2013, there were 35; now there are more than 50, and the number keeps increasing. Some have earned national reputations and distribute far beyond the state’s borders. Others are truly micro operations, with brews available only on site.

“Breweries love to have folks visit. Don’t

hesitate to knock on the door of any brewery,” says Sean Sullivan, of the Maine Brewers’ Guild (www.mainebrewersguild.org).

The guild’s Maine Beer Trail Map lists more than 35 breweries and brewpubs open for a tour, taste, or pint. For a tippling sampler, board the Portland-based Maine Brew Bus (207-200-9111, www.themainebrewbus. com) or Maine Beer Tours (207-553-0898, www.mainebeertours.com).

Seeking guidance in crafting a doit-yourself tour, we sought advice from Maine’s premier beer bloggers, Carla 55

FOOD AND DRINK

Companion (www.TheBeerBabe.com) and Chad Lothian (www.ifmycoastercouldtalk.bangordailynews.com).

MUST-VISIT BREWERIES “Allagash, Maine’s premier Belgian-style brewery, offers a great tour and tasting room. As a bonus, within walking distance [of the Portland brewery] are three of Maine’s newest breweries Austin Street Brewing, Bissell Brothers Brewing and Foundation Brewing,” Lothian says.

Rising Tide, also in Portland, wins points for its excellent variety of craft beers and 56

brewhouse-view tasting room. “It’s located next to New England Distilling (craft distiller) and around the corner from both Bunker Brewing Company and Urban Farm Fermentory (a cidery and kombucha brewer), so it makes for an easy afternoon to swing by these spaces,” Companion adds.

Freeport’s Maine Beer made the top three not only for its tasting room, but also for the opportunity to purchase four-ounce samples of favorites, pilots, and one-offs.

Farther afield, Lothian recommends Newcastle’s Oxbow Brewing, “for an adventure in the Maine countryside” and Bar

PHOTOS

Michele Stapleton Previous page

Sampling craft ales at Bunker Brewing Co. This page Left Behind the scenes at Bunker Brewing Co. Top right Urban Farm Fermentory Middle right The Maine Brew Bus Bottom right Participants gather for a group photo after a recent run of “The Local Pour Tour” on the Maine Brew Bus

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Harbor’s Atlantic Brewing, which shares a location with Mainely Meats Barbeque, for “generous portions of barbeque alongside pints of freshly brewed beer.” Geaghan’s brewpub, he adds, is “a must for anyone visiting Maine’s Queen City (Bangor).”

FAVORITE BEER BARS Both Companion and Lothian called out Portland’s Novare Res Bier Café as a beer geek happy place. “They have an eclectic, well-chosen tap list of about 30 beers, and a bottle list that contains literally hundreds more. This is not a place you can get Bud Light, but somewhere you are guaranteed to find something you’ve never had,” Companion says. “They also have a great dedicated local section to their taps, and they are often the first Portland-based bar to get new breweries on tap.”

Companion also recommends two other Portland venues. “LFK feels like a writer’s cafe and a haven to both good beer and interesting cocktails.” The Thirsty Pig has “a surprisingly well-rounded beer list despite having only a few taps.”

Like Novare Res, Lothian says Bangor’s Nocturnem Draft Haus offers “great atmosphere, friendly knowledgeable staff, outdoor seating, and constantly rotating taps that vary from hyper local to ultra-rare.”

He also suggests checking out the Lincolnville Lobster Pound, which is opening an onsite brewhouse in conjunction with Andrews Brewing Company. “Fresh Maine lobster and fresh brewed beer go very well together,” he says.

PHOTO

Michele Stapleton Above A private tasting at Maine Mead Works

INSIDER TIPS Ready to bring home the beer? “Go straight to Bier Cellar on Forest Avenue in Portland,” Companion says. “The staff really knows what they are doing there and should be able to help you find anything that you want.”

When touring and tasting, take advantage of flights. “Many brewpubs offer this option, allowing you to try all of their beers in sample form,” Lothian says. “It’s a great way to get the most bang for your buck.”

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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Seasonal

SOMMELIER A TOAST TO THE WINES OF ATLANTIC CANADA

BY Pamela Delaney

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“IT CAN BE A CHALLENGE IN OUR CLIMATE TO PRODUCE REDS THAT HAVE SOME MEAT ON THEIR BONES.” Pete Luckett, owner of Luckett Vineyards.

PHOTOS

Scott Munn/George Simhoni Opposite page

Scenes from vineyards throughout Nova Scotia including Luckett Vineyards and Avondale Sky Vineyard This page

Enjoying a cool glass of white wine at Luckett Vineyards

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

Shakespeare knew: “A man cannot make him laugh, but that’s no marvel; he drinks no wine.” The first winery in North America was established near Bear River, Nova Scotia, in the very early 1600s, the beginning of the Nova noble grape. Vintners now dot Nova Scotia’s hillsides and valleys, with tours and tastings, offering a variety of varietals.

Ideal “terroir” (the combination of environment, proper soil, and effective drainage) is key, but refinement is attained through a sense of tradition. Given that Nova Scotia rests on the same line of latitude as France, and still has a large population of French Acadians, it’s a natural fit.

The most popular varietal is, appropriately, L’Acadie Blanc. This clean, classy, white costs about $15 per bottle; among the best is made by L’Acadie Vineyards’ winemaker, Bruce Ewert, who honed his skills in British Columbia’s wine country.

Garnering praise are the 2012 vintages by Avondale Sky Winery in Newport Landing, at the Annapolis Valley’s easternmost edge.

The Chronicle Herald wine writer, Sean Wood, says of winemaker Ben Swetnam’s

2012 Stubborn Head, “In particular, he has mastered the use of oak with local favorite L’Acadie Blanc, a relatively delicate grape that can easily be overpowered by excessive oaking.”

Other excellent versions of fresh (aged in stainless steel) whites are Blomidon Estate’s L’Acadie Blanc and Gaspereau Winery’s Seyval Blanc, slightly sweeter to the palate. Both are perfectly paired with local haddock and lobster dishes. And don’t miss out on sampling Icewine; the most unusual version is aged in whisky barrels.

A must-taste is the frizzante (low-alcohol, champagne-style wine), Nova 7, made

by Benjamin Bridge Winery. Lightly fizzy and refreshing, it’s a wine worthy of grand celebration for a modest price ($25).

On any tasting tour around the Valley, a sip of Tidal Bay at Domaine de Grand Pré will tell you just how sophisticated and progressive Nova Scotia’s wine industry has become, and a wineries tour guide map shows how much it has branched out from only the Valley. From Bear River Winery and Annapolis Highlands Vineyards in the west to Sainte-Famille in the east, Jost

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Vineyards on Northumberland Shore, centrally located Lunenburg County Winery, and Petite Rivière on the South Shore, viticulture is booming in Nova Scotia. There are plans afoot for more than a dozen new Valley wineries within the next decade.

The province is already being deemed “Napa North”.

While the Nova Scotia climate is conducive to crisp, dry whites, Luckett Vineyards produces reds to be reckoned with. Luckett’s Phone Box Red is a fantastic blend that ranks with the best of international mid-range reds at $20 per bottle. “It can be a challenge in our climate,” says owner, Pete Luckett, “to produce reds that have some meat on their bones. Our winemaker, Mike Mainguy, carefully nurtures the grapes, choosing only the best for wine production. He then partially dries a portion of the grapes, which concentrates the natural sugars and flavors, and helps create a more robust and full bodied red blend.”

From July to October, Friday to Sunday, visitors catch the Magic Winery Bus, and tour several wineries near Wolfville and in the Gaspereau Valley, sampling all the wines they want without having to drive.

The bus leaves from the Wolfville tourist office at Willow Park, and costs upward of $20.

Nova Scotia Liquor Commission stores, and their outlets inside small grocery stores in towns and villages, have sections dedicated to Nova Scotian wines. Local wines of sufficient yields are well-represented on the shelves. Individual wineries, situated in such diverse buildings as barns and old churches, welcome visitors and usually offer free tastings. So, cleanse your palate, take the Nova Star ferry to Yarmouth, and “press yourself” into becoming a summer sommelier with a driving tour around Nova Scotia’s superb wineries.

Scotian Suds and Spirits

PHOTO

Nova Scotia Tourism Agency Glenora Distillery, Cape Breton

Nova Scotia’s wine industry is flourishing, but so are its breweries and distilleries.

Beer lovers salivate over the plethora of microbreweries, most featuring ales, although some offer tasty lagers.

Kevin Keefe, president of the Nova Scotia Craft Brewers Association, suggests a “hoppy” beer-quaffing itinerary circumnavigating provincial suds-makers: • Upon arrival at Yarmouth, walk one minute from your berth to Rudders Brew Pub. • Take Highway 103 to Shelburne to Boxing Rock Brewery; new kid on the tour.

• Keep going until you hit Liverpool’s Hell Bay Brewing for a toasty English Ale. • In Halifax, grab a cab and “hop” about Granite Brewery (owned by Keefe and brother Ron), Garrison, Propeller, and Bridge Brewing.

Tarry at Rock Bottom Brew Pub or The Heart & Thistle on the waterfront to sample a variety of local microbrews.

• Up to Northumberland Shore and Uncle Leo’s Brewing Company in Pictou, and Antigonish Town House (have dinner there).

• En route back to Yarmouth, sip at Fundy shore scores like Windsor’s School House Brewery, Paddy’s Brew Pub (take home a two-litre “ growler”) in Wolfville, Sea Level Brewing in Port Williams, and Berwick’s Bad Apple Brewing.

In 2014, six new microbreweries will open, and six more are planned for 2015. To learn more, search “craft beer in Nova Scotia” on the Internet.

Need a wee dram of something harder? Cape Breton Island’s Glenora Distillery makes a “whisky” that rivals the best of single-malt Scotch.

A visit to Ironworks Distillery in the Blacksmith Shop, Lunenburg, is a must; it’s not just for the Bluenose II any more!

Prince Edward Island, too, distills what you crave. Spirits are produced by two boutique distilleries that use local “spuds” for their handmade vodka. Prince Edward Distillery is widely known for its original potato vodka. More adventurous, perhaps, is Myriad View Distillery, producers of Straitshine, yes, “shine” at 50 per cent alcohol, and “white lightning” at 75 per cent. Just because they can.

Tradition is their excuse.

Wine, beer or spirits. Nova Scotia has a homemade tipple to please. PD

• Onward to Cape Breton’s Big Spruce Brewing between Sydney and Baddeck.

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The AnnapolisValley … an Extraordinary Road Trip

Luckett Vineyards

“The Annapolis Valley has become the wine & culinary hot spot of Nova Scotia! Protected by the north and south mountains, together with lots of southern sun exposure, this fertile farming region also provides an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables.

Experience award winning wine and fare here!”

Luckett Vineyard

Grand Pre W

inery Vineyar ds

The AnnapolisValley … an Extraordinary Road Trip “Explore the Acadian connection with a visit to Grand Pre National Historic Site. The stunning landscape of Grand Pre, virtually unchanged over the years, has recently been designated as a world heritage site by UNESCO. Stunning biking and hiking trails with extraordinary views and world phenomena such as the tides… the highest in all the world are among the many experiences that await the curious visitor!”

Grand Pre National His

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Cape Split

For more iinformation f i on the h Annapolis li Valley, ll NS Call: 1-902-678-4634 or visit: www.annapolisvalleychamber.ca

ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

CALLING ALL

adventure seekers

STUFF TO TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY

BY Jon Tattrie

Nova Scotia appears to be a tranquil destination, but jump off the beaten path and you’ll find a world of wild adventure that earns the province its nickname of Canada’s Ocean Playground.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

PHOTOS

NovaShores Adventures/East Coast Balloon Adventures Previous page

NovaShores also offers boat tours to Isle Haute, Cape Split and other scenic spots This page Left East Coast Balloon

Adventures offer panoramic views

KAYAKING With a jagged shoreline that would stretch to England, Nova Scotia has kayaking destinations that will make you jealous of the waves.

I took a trip with NovaShores Adventures that paddled on the heaving tide of the Bay of Fundy along Cape Chignecto Park.

Human vanity melts away as you bob at the base of the ancient Parrsboro cliffs, one of the planet’s greatest geological scrapbooks.

Expert guides unpack a story of fossils folded into the cliffs that takes you back past the dinosaurs to the first creatures to leave the primordial oceans.

On the Eastern Shore, I paddled with Coastal Adventures past fishing communities and seals as eagles swept overhead.

The island tour took us to the faint remains of abandoned European homesteads and evidence of Mi’kmaq people from the many centuries they occupied the islands.

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Both companies, and others, offer day trips or longer excursions. No experience is needed.

TIDAL BORE RAFTING When the Shubenacadie River collides with the incoming highest tide in the world at the Bay of Fundy, the billions of tons of tidal water smashes the river backwards at a rate of 13 feet (four metres) per second. It’s the equivalent to every river on Earth pouring down the basin.

You, my adventure-loving friend, will be clinging to a tiny inflatable boat that’s heaving over the bucking bronco of the tidal bore. It’s like white-water rapids, but the tidal bore doesn’t move — you do. Several companies offer trips from Maitland.

HOT AIR BALLOONING I’ve hot air ballooned over King Tut’s tomb in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings and amid the

fairy chimneys of Cappadocia, Turkey, but my journey above the Annapolis Valley was more beautiful. Run by an adventurous husband-and-wife duo, East Coast Balloon Adventures offers champagne flights that rise 1,200 feet (366 metres) for panoramic views of the Minas Basin, the New Brunswick shore, Cape Split and the farmlands and huddled villages of the Valley.

The balloon drifts through the agricultural heartland of Nova Scotia, dropping down to 200 feet (60 metres) for an aerial nature tour of marshy forests (keep your eye open for deer), blueberry fields and vineyards.

ZIP LINING For a milder adventure, go zip lining.

Tie yourself to a cable and glide majestically over the treetops. You can zip line at Upper Clements Park in the Annapolis Valley, or at Anchors Above in French River, Pictou County.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism Top left Kayaking off Cape Neddick Light Bottom left Stock up at LL Bean before starting any adventures Right Biking in the fall

70

If you want to inject adrenaline into your vacation in Maine, you’ll have to decide among mountain climbing, sailing, and hiking.

Start with the iconic, 24-hour LL Bean Discovery School in Freeport. It’s your portal to adventure. The store organizes expeditions to try everything from fly fishing to bird watching. Of course they can fit you out with all the outdoors gear you need, too.

Need help to decide? Talk to the good people at Multisport Adventures. They offer day trips and weekend tours that include hiking, biking and kayaking. All the activities are perfect for either sharpening your skills or having a first-time experience. You can even build your own custom adventure.

Maine has some spectacular mountains to climb, including in the beautiful Acadia National Park. The park’s dramatic cliffs and sheer granite walls leap out of the sea.

The Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School is one of Maine’s foremost climbing schools and the only school in Maine to be

accredited by the Professional Climbing Instructors Association.

In the summer, the school teaches beginner and advanced rock climbing. Equipment is included. Students will tackle some of the area’s best peaks, including Camden, Clifton and Katahdin – Maine’s highest peak.

The school also has a store, Alpenglow Adventure Sports, which carriers a full selection of hiking, climbing, and backpacking equipment and clothing.

For nautical adventures, Windjammer Cruises is a good bet. Its original fleet was established in 1936. Windjammers are “National Landmarks” and were among the first European vessels to sail Maine’s coastal waters.

Sign up for a voyage on one of the schooners, Grace Bailey or Mercantile, and you can learn to sail a windjammer during the day and relax on one of the area’s islands in the evenings. Let nature’s wind and tides power your scenic journey.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

Brier Island Whale and Seabird Cruises

PO Box 1199 223 Water St., Westport, Brier Island, Nova Scotia B0V 1H0 1-800-656-3660 â&#x20AC;¢ www.brierislandwhalewatch.com

ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

“ALMOST TWO MILES UP, MY PARTNER STRAPPED US TOGETHER AND WE LEAPT OUT OF THE PLANE. I PRIMAL- SCREAMED AS WE HURTLED DOWN AT TERMINAL VELOCITY: 124 MILES (200 KILOMETRES) AN HOUR.”

PHOTO

Charlie Colter Above Jon Tattrie (left) and tandem guide Charlie Colter take to the sky

Jon Tattrie, first-time skydiver

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STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

GO AHEAD AND

jump!

BY Jon Tattrie

Jumping out of an airplane was the most ecstatic experience of my life; it left me tingling for 24 hours.

I arrived at the Atlantic School of Skydiving in the Annapolis Valley early one summer morning and got a how-to-avoid-acrash course from my tandem partner. We climbed into the tiny Cessna. We circled up for 25 minutes, but I was too tense to enjoy the astonishing view stretching from Yarmouth to Halifax.

Almost two miles (three kilometres) up, my partner strapped us together and we leapt out of the plane. I primal-screamed as we hurtled down at terminal velocity: 124 miles (200 kilometres) an hour.

My mind exploded as we spiraled between heaven and earth. After a 35-second freefall, my dive partner deployed the chute and brought us to a near stop. I giggled like a maniac for the five-minute parachute drop.

A beautiful buzz flooded me as we landed gently on the earth – and I kissed it like the Pope.

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ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

PHOTOS

Scott Munn/ Maine Office of Tourism/ Dean Casavechia Main

Reid State Park Saltwater Beach Bottom left Martinique Provincial Park Beach Bottom centre Sunset at Lawrencetown Beach

Provincial Park

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ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

Beach BUMS MAINE AND NOVA SCOTIA ARE HOME TO SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES

BY Heather Laura Clarke

MAINE “People don’t always realize that Maine has a lot of white sandy beaches – they often think of the dramatic rocky shorelines with lighthouses,” says Lynn Tillotson, CEO of the Greater Portland Maine Convention & Visitors Bureau. “But the southern part of the state has long expanses of white sand beach. It’s absolutely beautiful.”

Ferry Beach State Park: Named for the nearby ferry crossing that served travelers years ago, Saco’s Ferry Beach has picture-perfect white sand beaches, hiking trails, guided nature programs, and a spacious picnic area. You can also slip into your bathing suit in a changing room.

outdoor showers for rinsing off, picnic tables, and a large paid lot. Lifeguards are on duty in-season at the midsection – known as Footbridge Beach – and boaters can launch at the ramp.

Old Orchard Beach: Just 20 minutes outside of Portland, you’ll find the white, warm sand of Old Orchard Beach – which stretches for seven miles (11 kilometres) from Scarborough to Saco. This beloved summer destination has carnival rides and games, gift shops, a century-old pier, restaurants and take-out spots, and classic treats like fried dough and cotton candy.

Popham Beach State Park: During peak hours, the high tide leaves very little beach space for sunbathing, so plan ahead before visiting Popham Beach State Park in Phippsburg. Sit back, relax, and look out at Fox and Wood islands – and even walk out to Fox Island during low tide.

Reid State Park: Maine’s first state-owned saltwater beach is located right inside Reid State Park in Georgetown – famous for bird-watching and saltwater fishing. Mile Beach is a popular spot to surf, and HalfMile Beach has a saltwater lagoon perfect for wading. Buy lunch and enjoy it at a picnic table, and spend some time hiking the trails.

Ogunquit Beach: Rated one of the Top 25 beaches in the U.SA., Ogunquit Beach forms a natural barrier between the Atlantic Ocean and the Ogunquit River. It’s a popular spot for body-surfing and swimming, as well as combing the sand for shells and driftwood. It also offers public restrooms,

Range Ponds State Park: Spend the day swimming and picnicking on the wide sandy beach and grassy promenade right in Portland, go windsurfing, or take a canoe or kayak out on the water. There’s a public boat launch near the end of the beach, as well as sheltered picnic areas.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

Scarborough Beach State Park: Considered one of the best spots to swim in New England, Scarborough beach has water temperatures in the high 60s˚F during July and August. Be sure to stay in the lifeguard area, because there can be dangerous rip currents on a daily basis.

NOVA SCOTIA “Every day offers up a new adventure when you’re exploring the nooks and crannies of Nova Scotia’s 4,722 miles (7,600 kilometres) of seacoast,” says Patrick Sullivan, CEO of the Nova Scotia Tourism Agency.

“Build sandcastles, fly kites, take a surf lesson, or just walk barefoot in the sand.”

“There’s nothing like a beach to bring out the little kid in all of us.”

Melmerby Beach Provincial Park: As one of the province’s busiest beaches, Melmerby Beach in Little Harbour is famous for having some the warmest waters in the Maritimes. It’s ideal for families and those looking for a relaxing place to spend the day. Facilities include flush toilets, showers, changing rooms, and a canteen.

Martinique Beach Provincial Park: Located just south of Musquodoboit Harbour in the Eastern Shore region, Nova Scotia’s longest beach has over three miles (five

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ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

Risser’s Beach Provincial Park: Just south of Bridgewater, Risser’s is a favorite camping destination with a sheltered sandy beach and a boardwalk along an inland marsh. Amenities include a picnic area, canteen, trails, washrooms, changing rooms, showers, disposal station, fire grills, wood, and ice.

kilometres) of beautiful white sand. Have lunch in a wooded picnic area behind the dunes, or go for a walk along the boardwalks and paths. Changing rooms and vault toilets are available.

Lawrencetown Beach Provincial Park: A popular spot with surfers, Lawrencetown Beach has vendors renting wetsuits and surfboards – as well as instructors giving lessons. Located 12 miles (19 kilometres) east of Dartmouth, the beach has ramped boardwalks and walking trails along a former railbed. Changing rooms, showers, and toilets are available on-site.

Queensland Beach Provincial Park: One of the most popular spots on the South Shore, Queensland Beach in Hubbards is the place to be during July and August – when the warm air and sand beckon. Bask in the heat, cool off in the ocean, and snack on some fries from the refreshment stand.

Change rooms and vault toilets available.

PHOTO

Clam Harbour Beach Provincial Park: Famous for their annual sandcastle competition, Lake Charlotte’s Clam Harbour’s long, wide sandy beach is a favorite for many families. Picnic in a field atop a bluff, check out the interpretive display, run along the boardwalks, or hike the trails.

Changing rooms, showers, and flush toilets available – and the beach is wheelchair-accessible.

Scott Munn Above Risser’s Beach Provinvcial Park

Crystal Crescent Provincial Park Beach: Crystal Crescent Provincial Park Beach is situated in Sambro Creek. This beautiful park has three white-sand crescent beaches to enjoy with boardwalks to the first two beaches and two vault-toilet facilities.

Five Islands Provincial Park: Just 19 miles (32 kilometres) east of Parrsboro, you can see the world’s highest tides from atop a 295 foot (90 metre) high sea cliff, and spend a day hiking, beachcombing, rock-collecting, clam-digging, and kayaking.

STRESS FREE FUN GETAWAYS!

Hang a right at mussel bakes and long lost summers.

Disembark, but don’t lose your sea legs completely.

Follow beachcombers, surf lovers, families and couples to White Point, Nova Scotia’s oldest and most-cherished beachfront resort. Here, you’ll find time for a splash of local wine on the cottage porch, roasted marshmallows, crashing waves, seaside golf, and a dress code that includes lobster bibs.

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ADVENTURE IN NOVA SCOTIA AND MAINE

FORE FOR

golf

BY Tom Mason

COURSE MASTERPIECES HERE FOR THE PLAYING The Yarmouth Links Golf Course looks deceptively simple at first glance. It’s not.

The fairways that appear wide and flat are actually undulating. The roughs are deep and unforgiving. The greens are small and lightning fast. The front nine, which was added about 20 years ago, is much narrower and tighter to play than the century-old back nine. Combine that with the winds that frequently blow off the harbor and you’ve got all the ingredients of a very challenging round of golf.

The Maritimes and Maine don’t always garner a mention when golf aficionados from away start discussing their favorite golf destinations. Call it a well-guarded secret. The region is actually top heavy with beautiful and challenging courses – hidden gems like Yarmouth, outstanding new courses and some of the oldest and most venerable courses in North America.

A few stand out as the masterpieces of the great course architects who created them – pioneers like Stanley Thompson.

It’s fair to say that Thompson was one of Canada’s greatest gifts to the game of golf.

In a career that began in the 1920s and ended with his untimely death in 1953, Thompson designed 144 courses across Canada, many that are still considered among the best in the country, as well as courses in the WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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ADVENTURE NS AND MAINE

PHOTOS

Scott Munn/Jenny Gillis Previous and this page

Cabot Links in Inverness, NS

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United States, South America and the Caribbean. He created eight of the Maritimes’ most iconic courses including Highland Links in Cape Breton, The Pines in Digby, Green Gables in P.E.I., Ashburn in Halifax and Fundy in New Brunswick.

Thompson invented the idea of making the first holes on a course easy and the last more challenging, to prevent golfers from getting tied up on the early holes and slowing down the players behind them. The beautiful but deceptively challenging par threes at The Pines course in Digby are a Thompson signature. So are the perfectly framed mountain and sea views on each hole at Cape Breton’s Highland Links. In fact, distinguished course designer Thomas McBroom once declared Highland Links a better course than Pebble Beach.

Stanley Thompson was just three years old when the first six holes at Poland Spring were designed by another pioneering designer – Arthur Fenn – in 1896. When this course about 40 minutes from Portland, in Androscoggin County, Maine was finally completed in 1912, it was the first golf course resort ever opened in the United States. The views of the White Mountains are just as beautiful today, and the bent grass greens and water hazards haven’t lost their challenge in the age of graphite driv-

ers and composite pitching wedges.

The Poland Spring Country Club laid some of the groundwork for Maine becoming known as a major U.S. vacation destination. Today the club is one of nearly 40 that make up the Maine Golf Trail, a network that encompasses some of the finest golfing destinations on the East Coast. The trail features the Maine Golf Concierge, a unique service that helps golfers choose the perfect Maine golfing vacation or coordinate golf with other popular state activities such as whitewater rafting, hiking or shopping. Visit golfme.com for more information.

While the Maritimes and Maine may have some of North America’s finest historic courses, the region isn’t exactly resting on its laurels. A number of spectacular new courses have opened in recent years, including Cape Breton’s newest gem, Cabot Links – a course that was rated 82nd on Golf Magazine’s list of the 100 best golf courses in the world when it opened two years ago. Cabot Links has joined other recently constructed standout courses including Fox Harb’r in Nova Scotia; Prince Edward Island’s Crowbush and Sunday River Golf Course in Maine. It’s enough to keep a serious golfer happy through a lifetime of vacations.

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

BLUENOSE

– a ship, a people and a legacy

BY Allan Lynch

ICONIC VESSEL GOT ITS START AS A WORKING FISHING SCHOONER As you drive across Nova Scotia, you will see the word Bluenose in constant use. It’s used for the name of restaurants, bookshops, motels, burgers, events like the Blue Nose Marathon and the name of Canada’s most famous ship. This is not a domestic conglomerate, but a manifestation of provincial pride. “Bluenose” is also the nickname for residents of Nova Scotia.

Nova Scotians are “Bluenosers”. And as you discover the historic port of Lunenburg you’ll see the Bluenose II. Bluenose II is a replica of the original Bluenose which was launched in Lunenburg in 1921. While other shipyards and ship-building nations had moved to metal hulls and newer technology, Bluenose was built using traditional methods and equipment. News executive Robert Bishop, who

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spent his youthful summers crewing on Bluenose II says some of the systems in use on the ship like “the system of tensioning the standing rigging called deadeyes and lanyards” would be familiar to sailors from the 1600s, 1700s and 1800s. “The deadeyes are blocks of lignum vitae, an exceptionally strong tropical hardwood. Hemp rope is run through holes in the deadeyes and drawn tight.”

In a way, Bluenose was the purist’s ship, designed by a Halifax naval architect, built

by Nova Scotia craftsmen using local materials. It was crewed by Nova Scotians under a gutsy, spunky, wise skipper, Angus Walters. The combination resulted in Bluenose immediately defeating all Canadian and American competitors to win the prestigious International Fisherman’s Race just

seven months after her launch. She kept this title until 1938, making her the fastest ship in the world. Bluenose came to symbolize Nova Scotia’s prominence in the fishing and shipbuilding industries. Because of this reputation and achievement Bluenose took on a second career as the province’s sailing ambassador appearing at the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair, and in England for King George V’s Silver Jubilee in 1935.

Bluenose’s original purpose was as a working fishing schooner on the Grand Banks. This was back-breaking work. Bluenose would sail out on to the Grand Banks and send its eight two-man dories out to fish. The dory is a small, tough rowboat specially designed for these ocean conditions.

The dories would be put overboard and the men would row out to fish. They would

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

HISTORICAL INTERESTS

spend their day fighting wind, waves and maybe rain, hauling in fish until there was no more room. Then they would row back to the mother ship, off load their fish into its hold, pull their dory on board, secure it on the deck and then they could eat. Then, just as now, time was money, so the first ship to land their catch got the best price. With Bluenose’s capacity for 500,000 pounds, that was a significant sum.

If you look at the 10-cent coin in your pocket, you’ll see this ship replicated on the reverse. That’s how iconic it is. In some places people may discuss which came first, the chicken or the egg. In Nova Scotia the question is whether Nova Scotians, or “Bluenosers”, are named for the ship or the ship for the people?

Like any age-old debate, there are myths and there is the truth. One myth, which usually gets a laugh, says old fishermen went to sea wearing blue-colored mittens, which when wet, shed their dye when the wearer wiped his nose with the mitten.

According to Ralph Getson, curator of the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic in Lunenburg which is Bluenose’s homeport, the reality is different. “The term Bluenose or Bluenoser is an ancient one dating back to the late 1700s to describe Nova Scotians.

The two acceptable reasons for the handle was that they were out on the water in cold weather and their noses were often blue as a result (of the cold). Also Nova Scotians grew and exported a blue-skinned potato to the eastern US and the New Englanders made fun of the fact and referred to us as Bluenosers. When they were looking to name the vessel in 1921 they chose a name that represented Nova Scotians.”

The Fisheries Museum has an extensive Bluenose collection which includes the International Fisherman’s Trophy that Blue-

PHOTOS

George Simhoni/ Communications Nova Scotia Previous page

The Bluenose II at sea This page Above Thousands of Nova Scotians and visitors from

across Canada were in Lunenburg on Sept. 29, 2012 to celebrate the relaunch of the Bluenose II. Left Charles Tanner, 93, a crew member of the original Bluenose in 1931, attended the relaunch.

nose won for 18 years. Dockside you may also find Bluenose II offering day cruises of Lunenburg Harbour. Bluenose II is just out of an extensive multi-year retrofit so the 2014 sailing schedule isn’t yet published.

Details can be found at schoonerBluenose2.ca.

We have a replica Bluenose because the original Bluenose sank off Haiti in 1946.

However, Bluenose II was built in 1963 at the same Lunenburg shipyard, by many of

the same workmen at the Smith and Rhuland shipyard which also built the replica of the HMS Bounty for the film Mutiny on the Bounty.

If Bluenose II is at sea, an alternative is to visit Theresa B. Connor which is always moored by the harborfront Fisheries Museum. Built in the same shipyard as Bluenose, the Theresa is a sister ship that gives visitors a glimpse of the working and living conditions on these fishing schooners.

Queens County Museum Experience...

High drama and heroism: firefighting in a province made of wood.

451 Main St., Yarmouth Open Year Round | Tel: 902.742.5525 FOLLOW THE KEY TO NOVA SCOTIA’S MUSEUMS

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Adjacent to Perkins House, we invite you, with a hundred thousand welcomes, to anchor yourselves here in our story.

As Ambassadors of Privateering History, we encourage you to venture onto the deck of our new and exciting interactive exhibit “The Liverpool Packet”, our star feature, as you peruse our Marine History.

Also for your enjoyment, the Life of the Mi’kmaq, a Funeral in the Parlour, Early Medicine and much more.

Admission charged.

109 Main Street, Liverpool,l NS • Ph Ph: (902) 354 354-4058 • www.queenscountymuseum.com STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

Fun & Fresh Menu on Lunenburg’s Waterfront

Bridgewater t iis a th thriving i i community

Family friendly & fully licensed

with activities and events for the whole family!

Canada Day on the LaHave July 1, 2014 Fresh Air Films Open Air Films at Shipyards Landing every Friday between July 4 and September 5, 2014 Hodge Podge Community Gardens Open House July 19, 2014

The Big ExSouth Shore Exhibition July 22 - 27, 2014 Wile Carding Mill Museum 40th Anniversary August 2, 2014 Victorian Garden Party to Celebrate Town's 115th Birthday August 10, 2014

South Shore in Motion August 7 - 19, 2014 Growing Green Sustainability Festival August 21 - 23, 2014 Afterglow Art Festival September 27, 2014 Christmas on the LaHave November 22, 2014

Open daily 11am-9pm 124 Montague Street Lunenburg www.saltshakerdeli.com Seafood Gourmet Pizzas & Sandwiches Pastas Salads & More

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Visit Shelburne’s Historic Waterfront Ready, set, churn!

Unleash the folk artist in you! u!

Come to the Ross-Thomson House & Store Museum, dress as a Loyalist and churn butter, make soap, candles and more.

Come to the Dory Shop Museum and take p part in a whirligig making workshop and bring home your very own whimsical creation..

Ross-Thomson

HOUSE & STORE MUSEUM

www.historicshelburne.com 902-875-3219

The Award Winning

Yarmouth County Museum and Archives

22 Collins Street, Yarmouth, Nova Scotia (902) 742-5539

From our forests to the Far East The Life and Times of Yarmouth County

www.yarmouthcountymuseum.ca

HISTORICAL INTERESTS

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING A

lighthouse

BY Bruce Bishop

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When you are raised on a coast, the local lighthouse is often taken for granted. It’s just there – like a distant family member to whom you have little to do with, but who nevertheless is a part of your extended existence. So what happens when that distant cousin has gone, never to be heard from again?

A member of India’s Parliament, Navjot Singh Sidhu, once said, “A fallen lighthouse is more dangerous than a reef.”

But in the age of sophisticated global satellite tracking systems for mariners, lighthouses are effectively redundant for most. Whether you’re a fisher, the owner of a leisure boat, on a search and rescue mission, or a ship’s officer, you probably use the Global Positioning System (GPS) on your vessel. As a U.S.-government website states, “GPS provides the fastest and most accurate method for mariners to navigate,

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

LIGHTHOUSE LINKS World Lighthouse Society worldlighthouses.org Buying a lighthouse in Canada mynewwaterfronthome.com/ lightnouses.aspx United States Lighthouse Society uslhs.org Nova Scotia Lighthouse Preservation Society nslps.com

PHOTOS

George Simhoni/Scott Munn Left Peggy’s Cove, NS Right Cape Forchu Lightstation

measure speed, and determine location.

This enables increased levels of safety and efficiency for mariners worldwide.”

I was made aware in 2013 of the incredible emotional ties that people retain who have grown up with lighthouses in their midst. My first revelation came when I worked with the Friends of the Cape Sable Lighthouse as the group’s online fundraising coordinator.

This magnificent structure, built in 1923, is about a 45-minute drive from the town of Yarmouth on Nova Scotia’s south shore.

It is the tallest lighthouse in the province at 105 feet (32 metres) and is located on an islet inhabited only by a herd of sheep off of Cape Sable Island and the town of Clark’s Harbour (and not to be confused with Nova Scotia’s Sable Island, a national park).

This unmanned lighthouse still works, 24/7, and is a source of pride and joy to the island’s residents.

When I first saw the “Cape Light” up close, after a short motorboat ride to the islet, it was apparent the elements had taken a toll on the concrete over the past several decades. The once whitewashed structure was a dirty grey, the base was heavily chipped and it exuded a state of being forlorn. Indeed, the Canadian government since 2011 had declared 119 lighthouses in Nova Scotia to be “active and surplus,” and

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

the Cape Sable Light was one so mentioned.

My understanding was that although owned by Fisheries and Oceans Canada, the upkeep of the lighthouse itself (as it is technically “surplus”) meant that it was up to the local residents on Cape Sable Island to find the money and manpower to paint and repair the structure.

And that they did last year. With some of the funding coming from the provincial government, at least half was raised by people who simply love their iconic ‘Light’. The Cape Sable Lighthouse now boasts at least four new coats of bright white paint and the concrete has been repaired overall.

In June last year, I received a four-month contract to manage the daily affairs of the Cape Forchu Lightstation in my hometown of Yarmouth. In 2000, this lighthouse was the first “major” structure of its kind in Canada, owned by the federal government, to be deeded completely to a municipal unit, the Municipality of the District of Yarmouth.

The Cape Forchu Light’s website states, “The municipality …through a property lease, entrusted the care of the site to the Friends of the Yarmouth Light Society. This transfer was the first of its kind, and was being watched by lighthouse preservation societies across the country. In 2003, the Cape Forchu Lightstation was designated

by the Province of Nova Scotia as a Registered Heritage Property.”

Many improvements continue to be made to the Cape Forchu property, thanks to grants from all levels of government. It has become a popular tourist attraction for southwest Nova Scotia since it replaced the original (wooden) lighthouse in 1962.

Although climbing to the top of the lighthouse tower (78 winding, iron stairs) is currently not allowed, the property boasts 19 acres of fine landscaping, gigantic boulders, benches to admire the views, a paved oceanside walking trail, and a café, museum and gift shop. It is Yarmouth’s pride and joy, and is a must-see while on your Nova Scotian vacation.

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

ACADIANS

then and now

PHOTOS

Scott Munn L-R The Festival Acadien de Clare is

the oldest Acadian festival in Canada

PASSPORT PROGRAM LETS YOU EXPERIENCE HISTORY, CULTURE, MUSIC, FOOD AND MORE – LIKE NEVER BEFORE

BY Sandra Phinney

Although “Acadie” may not exist on the map of Nova Scotia as a geographic location, the spirit of Acadie does exist – and is alive and well. Luckily, a program called “Your Passport to Discover Acadie from its roots to today,” (found in Southwest Nova Scotia) allows anyone to experience different aspects of Acadian culture and its history.

The Passport program includes eight major attractions. The actual “passport” can be downloaded from www.discoveracadie.com, or can be picked one up at any of the eight sites. Get the passport stamped at five out of the eight locations, and you’ll be eligible for a prize!

The Acadian story is a powerful one.

French colonists first arrived in 1603. As one of the earliest founding cultures in the

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province, their roots run deep. They formed strong bonds with the Mi’kmaq, and by the early 1700s, these French settlers had developed a distinct identity as ‘Acadians.’

The community prospered and grew to an estimated 13,000 in 1744.

Alas, when war broke out between Britain and France, Britain tried to get them on their side, but the Acadians refused to take an oath swearing allegiance to the King.

As a result, they were deported in an event known as the Expulsion of the Acadians, or “Deportation.”

Starting in 1755, more than 6,000 men, women and children were sent to different American colonies, including Louisiana.

Some escaped to Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Quebec, and northern

parts of Nova Scotia. Later, approximately 3,000 were rounded up and deported to France after the British captured Louisburg in 1758. After the war ended, however, many of the Acadians trickled back, and started their lives anew.

Today, it’s easy to tell when you are in an Acadian community. Their joie-de-vivre is palpable, and the Acadian flag (blue-whitered with a distinct gold star in the corner) is easy to spot. These colors grace everything from lobster pots to licence plates and placemats.

Stop. Look. Listen. Get engaged at the eight sites on the passport program. You’ll experience history, culture, language, crafts, genealogy, music, and food – like never before!

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

ACADIAN PASSPORT SITES: • Grand-Pré National Historic Site – depicts life in Grand-Pré from the first settlement in 1682 to the deportation in 1755. This site is where “Evangeline” is celebrated, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/ ns/grandpre/index.aspx

• Fort Anne National Historic Site, Annapolis Royal – is Canada’s oldest national historic site. Special events include Mi’kmaq Heritage Days, Encampment and Reconstruction Days. pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/ns/ fortanne/index.aspx

• Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens – has 17 acres of heritage-themed gardens, including a reconstruction of a 17th century Acadian home, and an impressive list of 101 things to do in the gardens. historicgardens.com

• Sainte-Marie Church, Church Point – the largest wooden church in North America. The church has an intriguing history, along with a small museum with rare and precious artefacts. museeeglisesaintemariemuseum.ca

• Port-Royal National Historic Site, Port Royal – a reconstructed 1605 French habitation, one of the earliest European settlements in North America, and where Samuel du Champlain founded the Order of Good Cheer. pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/ ns/portroyal/index.aspx

• Rendez-vous de la Baie, Church Point – is home to an Acadian interpretive center and museum, art gallery, theater, visitor information, boutique, and more. Bonus: The Internet Café there serves amazing lobster chowder. rendezvousdelabaie.ca

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

• Le Village Historique Acadien in West Pubnico – step back in time and discover the heart, life, and work of the Acadians in the early 1900s. Take time to enjoy some traditional Acadian food in Café du Crique. levillage.novascotia.ca • Musée des Acadiens des Pubnicos, West Pubnico – you’ll love this old homestead from the 1800s with its wonderful programs, displays and Acadian garden.

Sign up for Gem of Acadie – an Acadian Experience – offered twice a day. museeacadien.ca

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

PHOTOS

Scott Munn Participants in the Grand Chief Membertou 400 Powwow that took place in Halifax in 2010

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STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

HISTORICAL INTERESTS

A SHARED

culture TERRITORY OF MI’KMAQ PEOPLE CROSSED BORDER TO MAINE

BY Jon Tattrie

Maine and Nova Scotia have long shared a culture of seafaring, lobster-loving, and easy-going people – and that shared culture goes back thousands of years. Long before the first European settlers arrived, Mi’kmaq people of Eastern Canada resided in a territory called Mi’kma’kik.

The territory bordered the lower half of the Gulf of St. Lawrence (Gaspe Peninsula), New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, mainland Nova Scotia, Cape Breton Island, Maine and parts of southern Newfoundland, covering about 47,000 square miles.

Its extensive coastline, with numerous primary rivers, interior lakes and boundary terrestrial habitat, offered easy access to aquatic fauna, sea mammals, waterfowl, invertebrates, and land mammals which were basic to Mi’kmaq existence.

It is a fascinating history stretching over ten millennia, but it wasn’t one that Roger Lewis learned about growing up. “When I was going to school, we studied very little about Mi’kmaq people,” he said.

He grew up and wanted to see that change. The Mi’kmaq man is an anthroWWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

pologist/archeologist who works for the Nova Scotia Museum of Natural History in Halifax. He has spent years exploring the woods and river systems of Nova Scotia to re-examine the realities of a traditional Mi’kmaq cultural landscape, which remains important to Mi’kmaq people today.

The oldest archeological evidence of human habitation in Nova Scotia can be found at Debert near Truro. It shows people lived here about 13,500 years ago.

“The technology for that period was very different from any other cultural period in the province,” he says. “The site is one of the oldest in eastern North America. You see evidence that a very structured cultural group who used land very strategically and possessed an incredible amount of knowledge of the environment.”

At that time, just after the last ice age,

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the land was dominated by a tundra/taiga landscape similar to that of Canada’s north today. The Debert site revealed fluted points, gravers, spear tips and other items used to catch and process larger land mammals such as caribou as they migrated from the Cobequid Highlands to the lowlands to feed.

About 10,000 years ago, the landscape changed considerably. The tundra/taiga landscape was replaced by mixed forests with a much warmer climate. Rivers during this period were soon populated with various species of freshwater fish that became vital to Mi’kmaq existence. It was during this period that the basic tools of Mi’kmaq people changed as well. The archaeological record shows the transition from fluted points, to smaller corner and side notched points, and scrappers. Different types of

PHOTOS

Scott Munn/ Nova Scotia Museum Above and Page 102

Visitors to Kejimkujik Park participating in a native drum circle Above right

Anthropologist, Roger Lewis with an example of Mi’kmaq craftsmanship

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HISTORICAL INTERESTS

True Legends

“WHAT’S INTERESTING IS WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE ART...ALTHOUGH THEY HAVE INCORPORATED EUROPEAN GOODS INTO THEIR DAY-TO-DAY LIVES, THE ONE THING THAT REMAINED CONSTANT IS THAT THEIR ARTWORKS HAVE STAYED DISTINCTIVELY MI’KMAQ.” Roger Lewis, Anthropologist

pottery emerged from this transition.

After contact with European peoples, ceramic vessels were replaced by copper and iron pots.

Over a period of thousands of years, Mi’kmaq science progressed to take advantage of a changing world. Mi’kmaq history can be divided into four cultural periods: • The Sa’qewe’k L’nu’k (the Ancient People). The Paleo Period runs from calendar year 14,000 to 10,000.

• The Mu Awsami Kejikawe’k L’nu’k (Not So Recent People). The Archaic Period runs from calendar year 10,000 to 3,000.

• The Kejikawe’k L’nu’k (Recent People).

The Woodland Period runs from 3,000 to 500.

• The Kiskuke’k L’nu’k (Today People). The Contact Period, from 500 to present day.

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Pre-contact lifeways of the Mi’kmaq people were dominated by the region’s extensive coastline, and myriad of primary rivers, interior lakes and boundary terrestrial habitat. The rivers acted as highways and provided an abundance of food resources.

Lewis found that many strategies were used to harvest these resources. For example, he discovered four different types of stone fish weirs that were used in southwestern Nova Scotia.

It’s hard to estimate how many people lived here before contact with European peoples, but Lewis states that if one were to consider the healthy carrying capacity of a particular water shed in Nova Scotia, the number could be about 15,000, though he admits it could be many more or fewer.

Early Mi’kmaq people lived in fairly static communities along a particular river,

Roger Lewis straddles two worlds.

He was born and raised in Shubenacadie First Nation and works as a scientist. What amazes him is how often Mi’kmaq legends turn out to be true.

One Mi’kmaq story tells about a greedy Beaver who built a massive ridge from Cape Split to Advocate across the Bay of Fundy. Glooscap tried to reason with him that he should share the water, but Beaver refused. Glooscap sent Whale to talk some sense into him, but Beaver ignored Whale too. That was a mistake. Whale slapped his tale and smashed the dam, causing the famous high tides of the Bay of Fundy.

It was dismissed as just a story until about six years ago, when geologists working in the bay discovered that a giant ridge had indeed once connected Cape Split to Advocate, and that it collapsed dramatically.

Someone saw it happen, encoded it in story, and told their children, who told their children, who told theirs, across the millennia to present day when it reached the ears of Roger Lewis.

“What’s really cool about that is that story persisted,” Lewis says.

Another legend told of people walking from New Brunswick to P.E.I. It too was dismissed as a tall tale, until scientists discovered that in the post-glacier period a land bridge connected the mainland to P.E.I. The bridge was submerged by rising sea levels 7,000 years ago, but the story lives on today.

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where they hunted, fished and gathered necessary resources such as mammals and birds, and berries and nuts.

“If you lived on the LaHave [river] and I lived on the Mersey River, the availability of resources would overlap, in the sense of seasonality. These resources would be distributed equitably, and there’d be no need for conflict, because what’s on your river, I’d have on my river,” Lewis says. “If there ever were a time of crisis on your river, you certainly could share of the resources on my river.”

“They wouldn’t have had boundaries as we understand boundaries today. There wouldn’t have been a sign for Colchester Country,” he laughs.

Land and its resources were seen as a gift from the Creator, not owned by people.

Archeological excavation and oral history show no signs of war or major famines.

Shell middens, or trash heaps, show a

healthy diet that likely led to long lives. Early Europeans were astonished at the health of the people and reported many Mi’kmaq living past 100 years in the 1600s.

“What’s interesting is when you look at the art – porcupine quill work, basketry – although they have incorporated European goods into their day-to-day lives, the one thing that remained constant is that their artworks have stayed distinctively Mi’kmaq,” Lewis says.

One of the best places to learn about Mi’kmaq culture in Nova Scotia is just a 15-minute drive from the ancient Debert site. The Glooscap Heritage Centre is impossible to miss as you drive down Highway 102 near Truro, as a massive statue of the legendary Glooscap greets you on the side of the road.

North America’s only mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal maker.

Visit us today on the historic Halifax Waterfront.

5080 George Street; T. 1.888.977.2797 www.NovaScotianCrystal.com

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ALL ABOUT MAINE

splurgers scrimpers

MAINE

AND

ENJOY AN AUTHENTIC MAINE EXPERIENCE AT EVERY PRICE POINT

BY Heather Laura Clarke

During every season of the year, there’s an adventure waiting for you in Maine – from ice-fishing and skiing to navigating aerial courses and floating around in a hot-air balloon. There’s also something to fit every budget.

“What’s great about vacationing in Maine is that you get authentic experiences with lots of diversity,” says Carolann Ouellette, Director of the Maine Office of Tourism. “There’s always something to discover, or make you say ‘Wow.’” Here are a few ideas to get you started:

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

FREE (OR NEARLY-FREE) ACTIVITIES • Wolfe’s Neck Farm in Freeport is open to the public daily – free of charge – and offers hiking, biking, kayaking, and plenty of interaction with the local animals.

• Old Orchard Beach in Saco has arcades, amusement rides, nightly entertainment, auto races, and harness racing – with a pier extending nearly 500 feet over the Atlantic Ocean. Don’t miss their 30th annual Beach Olympics this summer (August 16-18) with music, displays, and competitions.

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• A night of camping is usually the least expensive trip you could ever plan, and Maine has campgrounds, RV sites, and campsites for every taste and budget – from the basic to the luxurious.

• The Maine Maritime Museum in Bath includes the country’s only surviving wooden shipbuilding yard, and a powerful exhibit that chronicles the history of Maine’s lobstering business.

• At Acadia National Park, you can rent bikes complete with kiddie seats, or take a carriage ride around the trails.

• Traipse around Pineland Farms – a 5,000-acre working farm in New Gloucester where you can learn about the vital role of farming and enjoy the pastoral beauty.

• Fort Popham is a semicircular granite fort built in 1862 on the banks of the Kennebec River to protect Augusta from Confederate invasion. While the fort was never completed – construction ended in 1869 – modifications were made and troops were stationed here for the Spanish American War and World War. ACTIVITIES UNDER $50 (All prices in this article are in U.S. dollars) • For more than 35 years, Maine’s original water park has been making visitors squeal with delight as they swoosh down new slides and plunge themselves into the water. Aquaboggan in Saco has high-speed water slides, bumper boats, a wave pool, go-karts, and minigolf. Admission $5-$20 per person.

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism Previous page Milking a goat at

Wolfe’s Neck Farm This page Top Acadia National Park Middle Fort Knox Bottom The Outdoor Discovery School in Freeport Top right Maine Maritime Museum

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• Explore Boothbay’s Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in every season, and see the shoreline at every tide. Take your time discovering each trail, or get your heart pumping and take it up a notch.

• Bordering the south side of the mouth of the Kennebec River, Popham Beach State Park is one of Maine’s rare geologic landforms that features a long stretch of sand beach. Admission ranges between $1 and $7 per person.

• Sebago Lake State Park provides yearround recreation for thousands of visitors each year. Near the foothills of the White Mountains, the park’s 1,400 acres are perfect for swimming, sport fishing, camping, and boating.

• LL Bean’s Outdoor Discovery School in Freeport gives families the chance to try more than 15 different outdoor adventures – like canoeing, kayaking, fly-fishing, bird-watching, snow-shoeing, cross-country skiing, and paddle-boarding.

• Maine has plenty of museums, including three museums devoted solely to children: the Children’s Museum of Maine in Portland, the Maine Discovery Museum in Bangor, and the Children’s Discovery Museum in Augusta.

• The Mount Desert Oceanarium in Bar Harbor features exhibitions around Maine lobster, as well as a Discovery Pool Touch Tank.

• Explore Fort Knox – one of the best fortifications on the Eastern seaboard – and the Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory that rises 420 feet above sea level and is the only observator like it in the western hemisphere. You’ll get to experience a stunning view of the Penobscot River Valley.

• The new Maine Mineral & Gem Museum is opening this year in Bethel, and will offer the largest collection of Maine gems and minerals in the world. Learn the story of Maine’s mining history, how minerals form, and the art of cutting gems and creating jewelry.

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Let one of Canada’s Best Rivers guide you home!

Fredericton, New Brunswick’s capital, is a culturally dynamic city waiting to be explored! Nestled along the banks of the majestic St. John River, Fredericton is rich in heritage, culture and nature. Once a British Garrison, now tree-lined streets lead to over 88 km of scenic trails connecting historic and cultural sites that include the Historic Garrison District, the Beaverbrook Art Gallery, the Provincial Legislature, Government House and the award-winning living history museum - Kings Landing Historical Settlement!

Throughout the summer, the downtown comes to life with FREE outdoor concerts, classic lms, theatre and our popular changing of the guard ceremony, which create a vibrant cultural scene, complimented by Atlantic Canada’s nest festivals, unique shopping and dining.

Learn what adventures await you in Fredericton this summer!

1.888.888.4768 | TourismFredericton.ca

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ALL ABOUT MAINE

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism This page Old Orchard Beach Right Learning how to catch lobster with Lucky Catch in Bar Harbor

ACTIVITIES UNDER $100 • Saco’s Funtown Splashtown – Maine’s largest family-themed amusement and water park – features a wooden roller coaster, spinning teacups, thrill rides, and New England’s largest log flume ride, as well as 18 water slides and pools.

Admission $20-$36 per person.

• Monkey Trunks Extreme Aerial Adventure in Saco features three ziplines, a 35-foot giant swing and 48 challenges – including swinging beams, tightropes, rolling logs, and hanging tires. They also have special courses for kids.

• Bar Harbor is packed with kid-friendly activities, from the Pirate Cove miniature golf course to the Reel Pizza Cinerama where you can order meals – and even beer and wine – while watching a movie on the big screen.

• Lucky Catch and Go Lobstering in Boothbay and Lulu’s Lobster Boat in Bar Harbor give you a chance to tour real

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lobster boats and learn more about marine life.

day of hiking, mountain biking, paddling, swimming or fishing

• Darling’s Waterfront Pavilion is an openair amphitheater constructed each summer inside Waterfront Park in Bangor. This year’s lineup of concerts includes Scott McCreery, The Band Perry, Dave Matthews Band, Brad Paisley, and Jason Aldean.

• Of course Sunday River Resort is famous for skiing and snow boarding, but they also have spring and summer activities like nature walks, bungee trampoline jumping, rock climbing, and mountain biking.

• Hop aboard the Maine Eastern Railroad’s restored vintage railcars for a scenic journey through the spectacular sights of mid-coast Maine. See seaside villages, lobster boats, tidewater wildlife, and magnificent foliage while traveling 56 miles of track between Brunswick and Rockland. Round-trip tickets $15-$37.

ACTIVITIES UNDER $500 • Drift through the sky over southern Maine in a hot air balloon from Hot Fun Balloons in South Portland. You’ll pass over forests, lakes, farms, villages, and coastline before touching down again for a post-flight champagne toast.

ACTIVITIES UNDER $300 • Make a reservation with Maine Huts & Trails and spend the night in a rustic hut – with hot showers, heated bunkrooms, and home-cooked meals – after a long

• Spend the night nestled among whispering pines on the rugged coast at Sebasco Harbor Resort. Gather around the campfire to make S’mores and sing, go kayaking, play a round of golf, or help the resident pirate – Captain Cornelius – find his sunken boat and buried treasure.

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ACTIVITIES $500+ • Treat yourself to a few nights in the Merchant Suite at The Captain Lord Mansion in Kennebunkport. This threeroom suite has a two-person whirlpool tub, 42-inch plasma TV, and a beautifully carved four-poster bed.

• Charter a powerboat or sailboat from Buck’s Harbor Marine in South Brooksville – for a few days, a week, or several weeks – and experience the coast from your own private yacht.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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Romantic STAYS

RELAX AND REKINDLE WITH A MAINE GETAWAY

BY Heather Laura Clarke

From cracking open a steaming fresh lobster on a rocky coastline, to savoring an award-winning bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon in a forest vineyard, Maine has lush experiences for every sense.

Carolann Ouellette, director of the Maine Office of Tourism, says couples from around the world flock to the seaside state 108

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to unwind and enjoy each other’s company.

“As far as romantic getaways go, Maine is known as a place for relaxation and getting away from it all – while enjoying some pretty spectacular scenery,” says Ouellette.

“Maine kind of allows you to be yourself, and follow your own inner compass.”

“You can be as busy as you want to be, or as relaxed as you want to be.”

Maine has made headlines in recent years as a celebrated culinary destination – with James Beard award-winning restaurants. Portland is known as one of the foodiest cities in the United States, and that’s spread throughout the state.

Perched on a hilltop with a 180-degree view of the village, harbor, mountains and Penobscot Bay, The Camden Harbor Inn is famous for their five-course dinners in Natalie’s Restaurant – which has been awarded Best Overall Restaurant in New England.

Their seven-course tasting menu highlights the bounty of Maine with smoked local oyster, Maine lobster, sole en papilotte with romesco sauce, blue cheese panna cotta with sour cherry gelee, beef tenderloin with foie gras, and pork belly ravioli.

At The Hartstone Inn in Camden, couples can participate in “Foodie Adventures” – like cheese making – and even take private cooking classes. Their “Chef for the Day” program gives couples a chance to help Chef Michael prepare that evening’s dinner, and get specialized instruction while you work.

No getaway is complete without hoisting a pint – or clinking glasses – with your loved one, and there are so many locally produced delights to try.

Maine’s quickly growing “beer trail” includes 35 breweries around the state, from Shipyard Brew Pub in Eliot right up to the Kennebec River Pub & Brewery in The Forks.

Cellardoor Winery in Lincolnville offers tastings in 200-year-old post-and-beam barn. They also host food and wine pairings featuring artisanal food, chocolate, and cheese, and hold cooking classes with celebrity chefs.

Whether you want to wake up snuggled in a plush featherbed or open your eyes to see the ocean through a cracked cabin window, you can find exactly what you’d like.

Maine’s cozy collection of inns and B&Bs

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includes the restored homes of old sea captains, rustic cabins in the woods, stately old homes, posh resorts, and lakeside wilderness lodges.

At the Westin Portland Harborview Hotel – located in Portland’s historic Arts District – their decadent spa treatments are the perfect way to relax and recharge.

Minutes outside of Portland in Cape Elizabeth, Inn by the Sea is an oceanfront resort with full service spa – as well as fivestar doggie treatment that provides bowls, blankets, treats, and in-room spa treatments for your pup.

You can relax in your own personal Jacuzzi in front of the fireplace and admire the ocean view at the York Harbor Inn – and also dine in a pub designed to feel like you’re below the deck of a fine sailing vessel.

Couples looking to stay active during their vacation can find many different ways to explore the outdoors and breathe in that glorious Maine air.

In South Casco, the luxurious Migis Lodge has 35 cottages amid 125 acres of

pine forest – stretching along 3,500 feet (1,066 metres) of Sebago Lake shoreline.

Guests can play tennis, water-ski, sail, and even have lunch on a private island.

Nestled within 500 acres of white birch, Point Sebago’s 18-hole championship course is hailed as one of the finest courses in the state, and features golf clinics with professional instructors.

Couples seeking a bit of adventure can sail the coastal waters aboard the historic Maine Windjammers. Cruise for a weekend, a few days, or a full week, and enjoy shore-side lobster bakes under the setting sun.

Ouellette says whether you’re tucked away in a forest by a lake, or feeling the salty breeze whip through your hair, there’s something about the way Maine makes you feel.

“You breathe in the air, and it just gives you a sense of peace and rejuvenates you,” says Ouellette. “When you and your partner get away from it all, you’re able to concentrate on one another and spend time exploring and discovering together.”

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism Opposite page Clockwise from top left

The Camden Harbor Inn in Camden, Hidden Pond Inn in Kennebunkport, The Harraseeket Inn in Freeport, The Tides Beach Club, Kennebunkport

939 Congress St. Portland, Maine

1-800-636-9127

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Yes!

YOU MUST

A DOZEN MUST-SEE, MUST-DO EXPERIENCES IN AND AROUND PORTLAND

BY Hilary Nangle

So much to see, so little time. That’s the dilemma facing those with only one day to explore Greater Portland and beyond.

Here’s a list of top hits: • Walk and wander: Mosey along the brick sidewalks of the Waterfront and Old Port, looping up through the Arts District, along Congress Street to Munjoy Hill and the Eastern Promenade, and then dropping down to the Eastern Promenade Trail, which wraps around the city’s East End shoreline, to return to the Waterfront. En route: nibble, sip, and shop.

• Explore three centuries of art and architecture at the Portland Museum of Art. Works by American and

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impressionist masters and fine and decorative arts fill the I. M. Pei-designed Charles Shipman Payson building, opened in 1983; the masterfully restored Federal-era McLellan House; and the Beaux Arts L. D. M. Sweat Memorial Galleries, designed by noted Maine architect John Calvin Stevens. Smallgroup tours depart the museum for American master Winslow Homer’s nearby studio, accurately restored to its 1910 appearance; advance reservation required. (7 Congress Sq., 207-775-6148, recorded info 207-773-2787 or 800-639-4067, portlandmuseum.org) • Ogle eye candy at the Victoria Mansion, a National Historic Landmark that’s widely considered the most magnificently

ornamented dwelling of its period remaining in America. Maine-born entrepreneur Ruggles Sylvester Morse employed designer Gustav Herter and hired 93 craftspeople to create this late 1850s Italianate masterpiece. It retains 90 per cent of its original furnishings.

(109 Danforth St., 207-772-4841, victoriamansion.org) • Climb the 122 steps inside the Portland Observatory for panoramic, gulls-eye views over Portland, island-salted Casco Bay, and inland to the mountains.

Capt. Lemuel Moody built the octagonal red-painted tower capping Munjoy Hill in 1807 to keep track of the port’s shipping activity. Admission includes the small museum at its base and a guided tour to

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ALL ABOUT MAINE

the crown. (138 Congress St., 207-7745561, port-landlandmarks.org) • Learn a boatload of lobster lore and even help haul traps aboard a Lucky Catch Lobster Tour. Any lobsters caught during the tour are available to purchase at boat price, and a local lobster shack will prepare them for a small fee.

(170 Commercial St., 207-233-2026 or 888-624-6321, luckycatch.com) • Tour the Wadsworth-Longfellow House for insights into Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s life. The poet’s boyhood home housed three generations of his family and is furnished with original pieces. Don’t miss the garden tucked behind the house. (485 Congress St., 207-774-1822, mainehistory.org) • Island hop aboard the Casco Bay Lines Mailboat, which stops briefly at five islands on its three-hour route or for a single island immersion, board the CBL ferry to Peaks Island, home to the Umbrella Cover Museum and Fifth and Eighth Maine Regiment Civil War museums. (Commercial St. and Franklin St., Old Port, 207-774-7871, cascobaylines.com)

trolley tours of nearby Bath Iron Works are offered. (243 Washington St., Bath, 207-443-1316, mainemaritimemuseum.org) • Stop and sniff the flowers at the 250-acre, seaside Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Paths weave through formal, kitchen, five-senses, woodland, and other specialty gardens, many accented with artwork. The children’s garden is especially magical. (Barters Island Rd., Boothbay, 207-633-4333, mainegardens.com) • Visit the Kennebunks, home to Dock Square’s fishing shacks-turnedboutiques; St. Anthony’s, a riverside monastery laced with walking trails; a trolley museum; and sand beaches for sun bathing and castle building. (visitthekennebunks.com)

• Eat! Portland is regularly lauded by culinary pundits, websites, and magazines for its dining an increasingly, its drinking scene. Get a taste on one of Maine Foodie Tours guided walking or trolley tours.

(207-233-7485, mainefoodietours.com)

PHOTOS

Maine Office of Tourism Page 110 The Portland Head Light Top The Victorian Mansion in Portland Middle Visit the Portland Observatory for panoramic views of the city Bottom Try a lobster roll!

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

• View Portland Head Light, commissioned

by George Washington and first lighted in 1791. Find it in Fort Williams, a 90acre oceanfront park on the grounds of a former military base just four miles from downtown Portland. Bring a picnic or savor rave-worthy lobster rolls from the Bite Into Maine food truck. (1000 Shore Rd., Cape Elizabeth, 207-799-2661, portlandheadlight.com) • Dip into Maine’s seafaring heritage at the Maine Maritime Museum. Five original 19th-century ship yard buildings, a late Victorian home, and the Maritime History Building pepper the 25-acre Kennebec riverside campus. Guided tours, hands-on exhibits, demonstrations, cruises, and one-hour

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ATLANTIC CANADA

FERRY Tales

BY Bruce Bishop

FROM NOVA SCOTIA’S COASTS, YOU CAN VISIT THREE OTHER CANADIAN PROVINCES BY FERRY, AND EVEN A TERRITORY OF FRANCE An adventure awaits! After arriving in Yarmouth, spend some time in this lovely town exploring its seafaring past. Time permitting, then set your sights on discovering any or all three other Atlantic Canadian provinces beyond Nova Scotia.

NEW BRUNSWICK The quickest way to get to this officially bilingual (French and English) province is to drive from Yarmouth on Highway 101 eastbound for a little over an hour to the town of Digby. Follow the signs to the ferry terminal where the MV Princess of Acadia makes her daily crossings to the historic city of Saint John, New Brunswick.

The Princess of Acadia voyage only takes a little over two hours to cross the Bay of Fundy to Saint John. One can dine on board at the Fundy Grill and try some local fare; enjoy a Starbucks in the TV lounge; browse the gift shop; try your luck with the WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

video lottery terminals; or use the wi-fi in the business center (where three public computers are available). There is also a supervised kids’ area.

In peak season, local musicians perform Acadian and Nova Scotian folk music during the crossings – and there’s nothing better than the views from the decks on the Bay of Fundy. Whale sightings are not uncommon!

According to long-time Saint John resident, Jude Carson, “The great thing about the city center is that it’s only a six minute drive from the ferry terminal. It’s fun to stroll through the historic uptown – not downtown – neighborhoods. Many of the lovely homes and buildings date from the late 1800s, built after the Great Fire of 1877.”

Indeed, it has been reported that 6,000 structures qualify as historic properties in what is New Brunswick’s largest city and

PHOTOS

Bruce Bishop Communications Ltd. Left Confederation Centre of the Arts, Charlottetown, PEI Centre Kingsbrae Gardens, St. Andrews, NB Right The Algonquin Hotel, St. Andrews, NB

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Est. 1989

1.800.563.7258

ATLANTIC CANADA

industrial complex.

Jude also suggests a visit to the City Market is a must, as it bustles with life, color and a dazzling display of products. “You can have lunch at the Market, or saunter up King Street for a treat at the Urban Deli… but expect a wait as it is so popular!”

“A block or two away is the Saint John Arts Centre, which always features interesting and compelling exhibits. The New Brunswick Museum, located in Market Square, is home to a variety of fascinating artefacts, including a life-sized moose and a skeleton of a giant whale,” she adds.

One of the more charming nearby towns west of Saint John is St. Andrews (also known as St. Andrews by-the-Sea), near the border with Maine. The renowned Algonquin Hotel, dating from 1889, and now a Marriott property, is re-opening this summer after a major refurbishment.

This picturesque town also features the stunning Kingsbrae Gardens, and a host of galleries, gift shops, bistros and the best of summertime fun.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND Canada’s smallest province and the birthplace of Canadian confederation is a 75-minute ferry ride from Nova Scotia on two ferries that have up to nine departures daily during peak season. Be prepared for red soil, stunning beaches and a very laidback lifestyle!

Your Nova Scotian departure point is the rural village of Caribou on the province’s Northumberland Shore, close to the town of Pictou. Driving from Yarmouth, take Highway 101 to Halifax, and then turn on to Highway 102 north as you approach Halifax Regional Municipality. Follow the signs from there.

The alternate route to Prince Edward Island is to drive on the Confederation Bridge, open 24/7 and spanning a mind-boggling eight miles (13 kilometres), which will take about 12 minutes to complete. There will be a toll to pay upon leaving the island. The departure point is Cape Jourimain, New Brunswick.

Linda Lowther, originally from Québec and married to an islander, owns Sundance Cottages in Cavendish, Prince Edward Island, and has some very definite favorites for playing and eating.

“When in our delightful capital of Charlottetown,” Linda says, “we love eating at Terre Rouge and often stop at the PEI Brewing Company. Closer to home, the WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

whole family also enjoys deep sea fishing with Barry Doucette’s company, or we go to the Watermark Theatre in North Rustico.”

There are four world-class golf courses in Cavendish alone, but the town is also well known as the home of the famous children’s book character, Anne of Green Gables. Linda and her family make a point of frequenting the Pearl Café in their home community.

Sandra Phinney, a contributing writer to this magazine, had this to say about her ferry experience to Prince Edward Island: “Last October, I was giving a workshop in Charlottetown and my husband and I decided to take the ferry from Caribou for a change. We were on the Holiday Island, and had heard that the galley served a big – and inexpensive – breakfast. We had eggs, home fries, bacon/sausage, toast and coffee.

Gourmet? No. But it was tasty and affordable.”

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR Your journey to Canada’s newest province is located in a time zone that is one half hour ahead of Atlantic Standard Time.

Newfoundland and Labrador became a part of the country in 1949, and is a five to seven hour crossing by ferry, depending on the time of year, from North Sydney, N.S., on beautiful Cape Breton Island.

To get to North Sydney from Yarmouth, the drive is about 500 miles (805 kilometres), so don’t expect to get there in a couple of hours. Plan your itinerary accordingly, make your ferry reservation before your visit, and put aside lots of time for sightseeing along the way (or on your drive back to Yarmouth to pick up Nova Star).

Phinney, an intrepid traveler to all the Atlantic Canadian, remarked on her most recent Newfoundland trip.

“My husband and I took the Atlantic Vision from Sydney to Port-Aux-Basque, Newfoundland, last August while en route to spend a week in Gros Morne National Park, and took the same ferry back to Nova Scotia. I always assumed that this ferry would be functional, and on the side of ‘blah’. We chose to get a room for the night’s crossing so we could sleep and be fresh on arriving early the next morning, as we had a fair drive ahead of us. The on board accommodation was anything but ‘blah’!

Our room was surprisingly spacious, quiet and comfy; we slept like babes. Coming back we had daylight to enjoy viewing the working harbors on both sides, which are fascinating!”

Ferry Information Ferries to New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island ferries.ca

Ferries to Newfoundland & Labrador marine-atlantic.ca

Discover Saint John discoversaintjohn.com

Tourism New Brunswick tourismnewbrunswick.ca

Discover Charlottetown discovercharlottetown.com

Tourism Prince Edward Island tourismpei.com/index.php3

Destination St. John’s destinationstjohns.com

Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism newfoundlandlabrador.com

Saint-Pierre & Miquelon Tourism tourisme-saint-pierre-et-miquelon.com/en

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There is far too much to see in Newfoundland, including the capital city of St. John’s, than can be written here in this short article. (Don’t confuse St. John’s with the aforementioned Saint John, New Brunswick. Even Canadians sometimes get the two confused.)

Suffice to say, if you are an outdoors enthusiast, or someone who loves history, geography and photography, Newfoundland and its sister, Labrador, will delight. This Canadian province, half an island and half on the mainland, is as far east as you will get to Europe – and Europe is even closer than you think.

Situated a scant 30 miles (48 kilometres) away from the southern coast of Newfoundland’s Burin Peninsula, at the end of Route 210, is the French territory of SaintPierre and Miquelon. This is not Acadian French or Québec French, or even a part of Canada – it’s been territory of France since 1763.

Of course you will need a valid passport to visit, and there may be different entry requirements than when arriving in Canada, but a visit here would certainly become a unique part of your vacation up north.

There is a passenger ferry from Fortune, Newfoundland to Saint-Pierre daily during the summer season, but you must book your reservation one month in advance.

(Perhaps you’ll have to make another trip on Nova Star next year!)

There is a bounty of wonderful sightseeing to be had beyond Nova Scotia, when time, budget and inclination allow.

Bon voyage!

HARBOUR TOURS

Brown Eyed Girl

PHOTO

Frank Aherne Port-Aux-Basque, NL

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ATLANTIC CANADA

DAY TRIPS FROM

Yarmouth

BY Bruce Bishop

THERE’S MUCH TO SEE ONLY A SHORT DRIVE FROM THE FERRY Let’s say you only have a day or two to spend in southwestern Nova Scotia and you don’t want to drive too far afield. Perhaps you’re using Yarmouth as your home base, either at one of the handsome B & Bs or in a campground within the county.

OFF HIGHWAY 101 – THE “VALLEY” DRIVE From Yarmouth, the first exit (# 34) at South Ohio will lead you through a pretty rural area that can take you to Lake Ellenwood Provincial Park. Lake swimming, picnicking and overnight campsites are available here.

Exit 33 off Hwy 101 will take you to the village of Port Maitland and its broad

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expansive beach. The surrounding area (you’re now on the old Highway 1 or Evangeline Trail) will eventually take you to the Acadian municipality known as Clare (or La Baie Ste-Marie). While French is the native language here, everyone knows and understands English, even if the signage may be in French. If you love beaches, stay on Highway 1, and do stop off at Mavillette Beach (between exits 32 and 31) or Bartlett’s Beach (between exit 33 and 32), which is a bit trickier to find.

All along Highway 1, you will pass vintage and impressive Roman Catholic Churches; a unilingual university with a great interpretive center and café (Rendezvous de la Baie, on the university campus) and charm-

ing villages with small restaurants and the ubiquitous Frenchy’s used and nearly-used clothing outlets.

Should you want to visit the town of Digby, it is only one hour from Yarmouth by remaining on Highway 101. In Digby, you could choose to take the ferry to Saint John, New Brunswick and points beyond, such as Prince Edward Island – but note that these are definitely not day trips, so plan accordingly.

OFF HIGHWAY 103 – TOWARD THE “SOUTH SHORE” Yarmouth is really the terminus for both highways 101 and 103. The 103 follows the southern coast of the province which will

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PHOTOS

Bruce Bishop Communications Ltd./ Yarmouth & Acadian Shores Tourism Association Previous page Left Reenacting life at the

National Historic Site of Birchtown Right Le Village historique acadien de la

eventually lead you to Halifax, should you decide to stay on the main highway. Otherwise, the following exits may be of interest for those wanting not to drive more than an hour or so outside of Yarmouth.

Exit 33 will take you to the old route 3 (termed the Lighthouse Route, in some publications) and into the heart of the municipality of Argyle or Par-en-bas, which has both an Acadian and Anglophone population. The village of Tusket is home to the oldest courthouse and jail in Canada.

Further along, the villages of Pubnico contain distinct tributes to Acadian culture, including a museum/archives and the interactive Le Village historique acadien de la Nouvelle-Ecosse (Historical Acadian Village of Nova Scotia), which authentically depicts rural Acadian life pre-1920.

The town of Shelburne, about an hour’s drive northeast of Yarmouth on the 103 (exit 26), is noteworthy for its several

museums and the National Historic Site of Birchtown. This was the largest settlement of Black Loyalists in the 18th Century, and was the largest free settlement of Africans in North America at that time.

Lawrence Hill’s novel, The Book of Negroes, about the slaves who escaped the British lines during the American revolution, is to be made into a TV miniseries, and some scenes are expected to be filmed in this area this year. (Shelburne’s waterfront had already been transformed to look like coastal Massachusetts in 1666 for the setting of The Scarlet Letter, a 1995 movie starring Demi Moore and Gary Oldman.)

Rest assured you won’t get lost on your day trips out of Yarmouth, so don’t be leery of venturing off the beaten path. The locals are friendly – just be aware of sudden banks of fog that may roll in from the sea when the warm air meets the cold water!

Nouvelle-Ecosse (Historical Acadian Village of Nova Scotia) This page Above Mavillette Beach

Old Fashioned GENERAL STORE Situated on the historic Tusket River ~ Serving Tusket since 1856

“Where the River meets the Sea” “Où la riviére recontre la mer” Two locations to serve you Exit 33, Tusket, N.S. Wedgeport, N.S.

902-648-2212

902-965-3005

We sell most everything!

• Hardware • Alcohol • Vesey Seeds • Groceries • Sporting Goods • And much more Store hours: • Mon-Sat 8am 9pm • Sunday 9am 8pm

LAURIE SWIM QUILT ART Original Art, Prints, Books, Cards from the Heart of Nova Scotia See award-winning artist Laurie Swim’s original art quilts and archival-quality photographic prints. Laurie offers two 5-day workshops in Lunenburg. Aug. 18-22, and Sept. 15-19.

138 Lincoln Street, Lunenburg, NS B0J 2C0 1-877-272-2220 • swim@ican.net • www.laurieswim.com 120

We carry only local crafts: knitting, quilting, woodworking, embroidery, hooked rugs, sewing, crochet, jewellery, soap, candles and more. We also feature supplies for knitting, spinning, jewellery, and soap making.

Hands On Crafts 314 Main Street Yarmouth NS B5A 1E4

Phone 902-742-3515 store@handsoncrafts.ca www.handsoncrafts.ca

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NOVA SCOT

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NOVA SCOTIA AND

BY Heather Laura Clarke

ACTIVITIES FOR EVERY BUDGET ALL OVER NOVA SCOTIA Whether you’re touring around Nova Scotia on a tight budget or are ready to splurge on a special adventure, there’s sure to be the perfect activity out there for you.

“The great thing about Nova Scotia is you can do so many things that don’t cost very much – if anything at all,” says Patrick Sullivan, CEO of the Nova Scotia Tourism Agency.

Here are a few ideas to get you started:

• Wander through the Shubenacadie Wildlife Park and pay a visit to the reindeer, moose, beavers, bears, coyotes, wolves, or foxes.

• Spend the day at Truro’s Victoria Park exploring more than 1,000 acres of lush forest, and winding stairways through the trees. Test your endurance by climbing the 175 steps Jacob’s Ladder and hiking to the waterfalls.

• Spend the day at one of Nova Scotia’s many museums, like the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic – where you can learn about the Titanic and the Halifax Explosion – or the Museum of Natural History – where you can see Mi’kmaq artifacts and visit Gus, the 65-year-old tortoise.

FREE (OR NEARLY-FREE) ACTIVITIES • Ranging between 11 ft.(3.5 metres) to 53 ft. (16 metres), the Bay of Fundy has the highest tides in the world. Don’t forget to pay a visit to the Joggins Fossil Centre to see the world’s largest collection of 300 million-year-old fossils.

ACTIVITIES UNDER $50 (All prices in this article are in Canadian dollars)

• Head to U-pick in Annapolis Valley and fill baskets with fresh apples, strawberries, blueberries, carrots, peaches, plums, raspberries, or corn.

• Walk along Halifax’s boardwalk and continue into Point Pleasant Park. At 190 acres, it’s the largest park in the city.

Take in an outdoor Shakespeare by the Sea performance, go for a hike along the trails, or let the family dog out for a run.

• Check out Clam Harbour Beach’s impressive sand castle competition each August, where the best of the best compete to make detailed, beautiful sculptures. It’s located 52 miles (84 kilometres) from Dartmouth on Route 7 along the Eastern Shore.

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• Pretend to be a soldier for a day on Halifax Citadel National Historic Site where you can dress in uniform and help them fire the noon cannon.

Admission is $19.60-29.40 for a family, depending on the season.

• Tour the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site – the largest reconstruction project in North America – and see the history of the French North American colonies come to life in vivid detail. $44.10 per family.

• The Discovery Centre is Halifax’s hands-on science centre, with a Bubble Room, LEGO building center, life-sized suspension bridge, and build-your-own

roller coaster exhibit. $10 per adult, $7 for children aged 3-18, free for children two and under.

• More than a million immigrants and refugees came to Canada through the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 between 1928 and 1971, but today Pier 21 exists as a museum – with interactive exhibits that tell tales from Nova Scotia’s past. $22 per family.

• Admission to Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site is less than $15 for a family, and you can hike, bike, canoe, kayak, swim, fish, picnic, or go geocaching.

• At RiverBreeze Farm & Cornmaze in Truro, you can pick pumpkins, take wagon rides, ride a cow train, play in a

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WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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petting zoo, bounce on a giant jumping pillow, and watch the Pigtucky Derby Pig Races. $10 per person. Free for children four and under.

ACTIVITIES UNDER $100 • Cruise along the Halifax waterfront or go off-roading while driving a Segway. $25-$60 per person.

• At Upper Clements Park in Annapolis Royal, you can soar among the trees and swerve close to the lake on the only wooden rollercoaster east of Quebec, and hop inside a log and splash down two 80foot (24 metre) falls on the Sissibo Sizzler Flume Ride. Entry into the park is just $10.50, or purchase a bracelet for $27.50 to access all rides and attractions.

• Get a true Nova Scotian experience at The Point of View’s Beggar’s Banquet in Louisbourg, where you’ll dress up in 18th-century costumes, eat fresh lobster with your hands, and listen to songs and stories about life in the 1700s.

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• Spend the night in an “oTENTik” – a blend of tent and cabin – at Kejimkujik National Park for $70-$90 per night. It’s called “glamping” (glamorous camping).

• Just 30 minutes outside of Halifax at Lawrencetown Beach, you can enroll in a surf lesson with East Coast Surf School.

They provide the wetsuits and gear, teach you how to paddle and stand up, and show you how to ride the waves.

ACTIVITIES UNDER $300 • Take a spin in a motorcycle sidecar, and spend a few hours exploring the fishing village of Peggy’s Cove, the Town of Lunenburg, or downtown Halifax. Kids can ride, too! $74-$189 per person.

• Go on a ziplining adventure at OnTree Park in Windsor, where they offer eight high courses, two training courses, and a special course just for kids.

• The Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo is the world’s largest annual in door show, and takes place in Halifax for

a week every summer. This year’s event takes place July 1 to July 8. Experience bagpipes, highland dancers, and military traditions mixed with modern acrobatic acts, contemporary dancing, and trampoline routines. Tickets $24.50 to $80.

ACTIVITIES UNDER $500 • Go tidal-bore rafting on the Shubenacadie River and experience thrilling rapids and beautiful scenery.

Book an Extreme Tides two-hour tour for $70 per person ($63 for kids under 12) or a four-hour tour for $95 per person ($85.50 for kids under 12).

• Take a sunrise or sunset ride in a hot air balloon with East Coast Balloon Adventures, and see what it’s like to soar among the clouds. You’ll have a breath taking view of the Annapolis Valley and drift over forests, lakes, and vineyards, and then gently come down to land. $250 per passenger.

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PHOTOS

Scott Munn/Jenny Gillis/ James Ingram Page 123

Canoeing in Kejimkujik National Park Opposite page Top left A piper welcomes visitors to Pier 21 in

Halifax Middle left Exhibits at the Natural History Museum in Halifax Bottom left Halifax Citadel National Historic Site Right Clam Harbour Sandcastle Competition

ACTIVITIES $500+ • Treat yourself to a few nights at the tony Fox Harb’r Golf Resort & Spa in Wallace, where activities include fly-fishing, sport shooting, hunting, mountain biking, volleyball, tennis, snow-shoeing, cross-country-skiing, swimming, and snowmobiling.

• Charter your own helicopter with Vision Air Services to get a bird’s-eye view of Peggy’s Cove, Bay of Fundy, or downtown Halifax. You can even arrange to land along the Eastern Shore or South Shore, and enjoy a gourmet picnic lunch.

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ATLANTIC CANADA

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Yarmouth

HERE’S JUST A FEW OF THE HIDDEN GEMS YOU’LL FIND RIGHT OFF THE FERRY

BY Bruce Bishop

Sometimes it takes living away from your hometown for many years to truly appreciate what it can offer the visitor. In the past 10 years since moving back home to Yarmouth, here are a few things that I’m guessing you might not want to miss: THE BEACH, THE BRIDGE AND THE LIGHTHOUSE: GET YOUR CAMERA READY Closest to Yarmouth: John’s Cove and False Harbour Beaches at Cape Forchu (six miles from town). At high or low tide, on a sunny day, both sandy beaches are pleasant even though the ocean water is quite cold for a dip for most landlubbers. The nearest public washroom facilities and museum/ restaurant are at the Cape Forchu Lightstation (c. 1962), at the end of Route 304 less than a half mile away. The acreage around the Lightstation includes Leif Erikson

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Park (paved ocean trails and lookouts) and stunning sea views from the gigantic rocks surrounding the property.

On the way to Cape Forchu’s beaches and lighthouse, you will pass by the Fisherman’s Monument at “Yarmouth Bar”, a tiny strip of land where you’ll see many colorful fishing boats; a lobster pound (Stanley’s – a rustic local favorite eatery on a pebbly beach for steamed lobster, or live or cooked takeout) and the narrow causeway leading to Cape Forchu.

For more photo opps, take a side trip to Sandford, a working fishing village and the home (purportedly) of the smallest drawbridge in the world! Take the road to Cape Forchu (Route 304) at the top of Vancouver Street, but turn right onto Overton Road instead of left to the Cape. Sandford is a few miles in on the Ross Durkee Road.

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MUSEUMS: SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE In Yarmouth, and in walking distance from the ferry terminal, worthwhile museum stops are the Yarmouth County Museum and Archives (Collins Street) with over 20,000 artefacts; the W. Laurence Sweeney Fisheries Museum (Water Street), and the Firefighters’ Museum of Nova Scotia (Main Street). The Yarmouth Heritage Conservation District surrounds the Yarmouth County Museum, and it’s a neighborhood that is ideal to explore the late Victorian architecture from Yarmouth’s shipbuilding heyday. (Walking tour maps are available at the Visitor Information Centre across the street from the ferry terminal.)

PHOTOS

Yarmouth & Acadian Shores Tourism Association/ Scott Munn Opposite page Right The small fishing

community of Sanford Left Cape Forchu Lightstation This page Top Frost Park

in Yarmouth Bottom Exploring the area around Cape Forchu Lightstation

ARTS AND CULTURE IN THE TOWN There is always something happening nightly at Th’YARC Playhouse at 81 Parade Street. This community theater is the largest in southwestern Nova Scotia with about 340 seats, and the volunteers that comprise the cast and crew of the productions are talented – as well as passionate. If a local musical or play is not on stage, a musical act or visiting performer of some kind will undoubtedly be scheduled. Call the Box Office at (902) 742-8150.

The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia’s western branch is located in a refurbished stone bank building at 341 Main Street. Permanent and temporary exhibits co-exist extremely well on two floors, with an emphasis on Nova Scotian artists from all genres. Call (902) 749-2248 for opening hours and exhibit information.

To have a listen to some local musicians, you don’t have to venture further than Rudders Brewpub & Seafood Restaurant on Water Street, a two-minute walk from the ferry terminal. This popular spot features singers and songwriters from the region, so it’s a good stop for a drink or a full meal.

PEACE AND QUIET Frost Park, located about a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal, with entrances off Water Street (next to the poignant Lost to the Sea Memorial) or Main Street next to Town Hall, is a haven of quiet with beautiful landscaping and gardens.

Across the street from Frost Park is the Western Counties Regional Library where access to desktop computers, washrooms, and obviously books and magazines is available.

A short walk southeast of the ferry terminal will bring you to two noteworthy WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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churches: Holy Trinity Anglican (c. 1843) on William Street, and St. Ambrose Cathedral (c. 1862) on Albert Street.

Both are normally open during the weekday for contemplation, and Holy Trinity often offers Afternoon Teas in its Parish Hall.

There are more hidden gems, shopping ideas and things to see and do â&#x20AC;&#x201C; either stop by the Visitor Information Centre or peruse the local tourism website at yarmouthandacadianshores.com

PHOTO

Nova Scotia Tourism Agency/RPM The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest drawbridge in Sanford, NS

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Lakelawn B&B Motel OPEN ALL YEAR ROUND • FREE WIFI • FREE PARKING • GREAT PRICES Downtown Yarmouth, 641 Main Street, Yarmouth NS 902 742 3588 • 1 877 664 0664 lakelawnmotel@yahoo.com • http://www.lakelawnmotel.com

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8 Forest Street, Yarmouth, NS B5A 3K8 One block up from the ferry terminal.

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ATLANTIC CANADA

ONE

Nova Scotia

BY Allan Lynch

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TAKE A SUPERLATIVE ROAD TRIP Geology, geography and history have shaped Nova Scotia into a land of superlatives that provide the ultimate road trip.

Three hundred million years ago, Nova Scotia was tropical jungle, swamp, desert, sea floor, home to volcanoes and passed over by a glacier. The result is a wealth of minerals, land formations and fossils. Some can be seen at the UNESCO World Heritage Site at the Joggins Fossil Cliffs. Described as the Coal-Age Galapagos, Joggins has 350-million-year-old fossils.

With Europeans arriving over 400 years ago it’s not surprising that a place this old is filled with superlatives: first, oldest, biggest.

For example, Halifax is home to the largest Buddhist community in North America.

The Halifax Citadel is the most visited National Historic Site in Canada. The Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site is the largest historical recreation in North America.

Nova Scotia’s ultimate superlatives are the Bay of Fundy tides. Twice a day over 100 billion tons of water create a 54-foot (16.5 metre) difference between high and low tide. That’s enough water to fill the Grand Canyon one-and-a-half times. These tides feed the province’s most delightful adventure: tidal bore rafting which involves charging instantly appearing river rapids in a rubber raft. Think of a roller coaster on water.

When you leave the ship, if you go west and follow the Acadian Shore along the Bay of Fundy you’ll come to a series of crayon-colored Acadian fishing villages which

will lead to the former colonial capital, Annapolis Royal and the first permanent settlement north of Florida, the Frenchbuilt Habitation. Beyond here lay the lush farmlands of the Annapolis Valley where over a dozen wineries generating $260 million in business is evolving into a Northern Napa.

It was from this area in 1755 that 10,000 Acadians (French farmers) were deported to places like Louisiana, where they become known as “Cajuns” making this coast the homeland of Cajun culture.

Also in the Valley the town of Windsor is birthplace of the national passion: hockey.

Its history is told in the Windsor Hockey Heritage Centre.

If you follow the Atlantic Coast to Halifax you’ll find a region popular with pirates, privateers and rum runners. Privateers were “legal” pirates licensed by the Crown to harass the enemies of England. Rum runners were entrepreneurial sea captains who smuggled liquor past the US Coast Guard during Prohibition. A cool history is told at the Fisheries Museum in historic Lunenburg, which is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The provincial capital, Halifax, is like a small Boston without the summer humidity. It is home to the region’s most vibrant nightlife, thanks to the 10,000 students attending the city’s seven degree-granting institutions.

In early summer Halifax hosts the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo. With over 2,000 performers from international

PHOTO

Scott Munn Whale watching in the Bay of Fundy

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PHOTOS

Scott Munn/ Wally Hayes Above Cycling the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton Right The Alexander

Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck

military and police groups the Tattoo is the continentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest live show, eclipsing anything Las Vegas stages. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just one of 700 events, fairs and festivals which ďŹ ll the provincial calendar.

In the middle of Cape Breton Island on the shores of the Bras dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Or lakes is Baddeck, the lakeside community where Alexander Graham Bell chose to spend the last half of his life. Bell built a laboratory here, and was joined here by Guglielmo Marconi who came to develop his wireless communication system. In effect, they put Baddeck on the forefront of a global communications revolution, like an early Silicon Valley.

The bottom line is donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be fooled by Nova Scotiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s small size on the map of Canada. It has more to see, taste and experience than most visitors expect. Just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make the mistake of thinking youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll drive it in a day.

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$99 - $275 Whale watching, Upper Clements Theme Park & golf packages available.

Bus tours & groups welcome!

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n 1604, explorer Samuel de Champlain described the area as “the most suitable and pleasant for a settlement” that he’d seen -- and Annapolis Royal continues to awe visitors to this day.

“It’s such a vibrant community, so you should plan to stay an extra day,” says Durline Melanson, editor of the Explorer Visitors Guide.

Only 10 minutes from the Bay of Fundy and nestled between two rivers, visitors delight over Annapolis Royal’s panoramic scenery,

stately Victorian homes, numerous attractions, incredible culture, and gracious hospitality.

“Be pampered at luxurious historic inns or B&Bs, or relax in comfortable motels, scenic campgrounds, or cozy cottages,” says Mayor Michael Tompkins. “Enjoy a variety of restaurants, and savour fresh local seafood, scrumptious desserts, and specialty dishes made from produce grown here in the Annapolis Valley.”

258 St. George St. Annapolis Royal, NS • (902) 532- 7706

Casual clothing & Footwear Keeping you comfy & dry for work and play!

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Home Owners helping homeowners

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ATLANTIC CANADA

PEI bound

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PHOTOS

Jenny Gillis The serenity of P.E.I. with its beautiful vistas and landscapes pushes aside the stress and draws in a sense of well-being.

BY Julie V. Watson

EXPERIENCE THE MAGIC THE ISLAND HAS TO OFFER There’s something magical to be experienced in Prince Edward Island. Leaving the mainland for this place known for its relaxed pace pushes aside stress and draws in a sense of well being. The adventure begins with getting here whether driving the eight-mile (13-kilometre) Confederation Bridge, or taking in sea air on the deck of a Northumberland ferry. A few minutes with a map pays dividends; the Island is perfect for a loop tour arriving by one, taking in chosen destinations, then leaving by the other.

Choosing Cavendish, visiting sites that inspired the magic penned by L.M. Montgomery, is almost a must. Her first novel, the universally beloved Anne of Green Gables, inspired television, films and stage.

Charlottetown’s Anne of Green Gables Musical is the longest running in Canada.

Montgomery’s numerous works, inspired by land, sea and people, encouraged preservation of place and values, imparting images that draw visitors from around the world.

Another ingredient in the magical mix, the 683-mile (1,100-kilometre) shoreline, is washed by the warmest salt water north of the Carolinas. Some 90 beaches are a mix of

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

pristine white sand backed by rolling dunes and gently sloping red sands revealing perfect-for-paddling pools as tides recede.

For centuries beaches have symbolized the essence of this island — beautiful, clean, serene, safe, uncrowded. The most popular, maintained by Parks Canada, Provincial Parks or communities, provide lifeguards and washrooms, others offer harmony with nature in a more private setting.

Parks Canada also operates historic sites such as Charlottetown’s Province House, pivotal in the formation of the nation. PEI celebrates being the Birthplace of Canada, proudly continuing the hospitality and goodwill, which set the tone for discussing the merits of Confederation years ago.

Charlottetown’s historic old town steps visitors back to that era. It’s not unusual to meet characters resplendent in Victorian garb. In 2014 PEI hosts a year-long party with 150-plus events marking the 150th anniversary (Sesquicentennial) of that 1864 Charlottetown Conference. Good news for visitors. Even Royalty will be dropping by! www.pei2014.ca/events That focus on hospitality encompasses the culinary scene. Colonized for its ability to provide food, PEI (aka Spud Island)

continues to be a world-class producer of potatoes, lobster, mussels and more. Their annual shellfish festival draws international competitors to shuck oysters and make chowder, along with foodies to enjoy local seafood. The expertise of chefs and students at the Culinary Institute of Canada, who consistently bring home medals from international and national competitions, adds a unique flavor to festivals and culinary events.

“Experiences” are fast becoming culinary must dos; something outside of the usual.

Food lovers revel in the Culinary Institute’s 45-plus Culinary Boot Camps. High regard for these fun-filled adventures led to The Island Flavours Boot Camp’s selection to the Canadian Signature Experiences Collection. A more down-home outing, Spuds, Fudge & Tales Farm Tour, visits a potato farm and museum devoted to spuds, teaches making potato fudge and serves a delicious potato-based lunch. Or, visit a converted country church to partake of Annie’s Table cooking classes ranked a top activity. These and other hands on experiences are a feast for the senses — amazingly satisfying — and balance out popular draws: golf, harness racing, arts and crafts, music and theatre. tourismpei.com/pei-experiences Many who experience the Island way of life choose PEI as a retirement haven. The

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ATLANTIC CANADA

PHOTOS

Jenny Gillis Top left The Confederation Bridge joins the Canadian province of Prince Edward Island Top right & bottom Many who experience the Island way of life choose PEI as a retirement haven. The lifestyle and safe environment are especially appealing.

lifestyle, safe environment and lower housing costs (particularly in rural areas) are especially appealing. Medical, hospital and dental care standards are high with public health services funded by government. The small population of 145,000 ensures services easier to access, less traffic (no multilane highways choked with commuters and trucks), and a less harried pace. gov.pe.ca/infopei/ OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Singing Sands Beach in Basin Head Provincial Park is where the sand really does sing earning it a designation as the Number 1 Beach in Canada because of its warm water, beautiful site and unique sound

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North Cape, located at the western tip, is home to a wonderful reef you can walk on at low tide with nature trails, an interpretive center, and an introduction to wind power that makes this a magical place.

Mighty tides of the St. Lawrence and Northumberland Strait meet at East Point Lighthouse creating a show of nature’s force. The lighthouse has been moved several times due to continuing erosion of the coastline. The old fog alarm building houses crafts and an interpretive center.

Turn right as you leave the ferry compound in Wood Islands. The lighthouse museum is a gem. Displays include ghostly tales, 63 lighthouses, Northumberland ferries, Rum-Runners, the Burning/Phantom

Ship, Ice Boats/Ice Breakers and rare sea glass. There’s also a gift shop and places to eat. The Tower Top has an amazing 360-degree view and there’s a great picnic spot nearby to watch the ferry come and go Oceanview Lookout in PEI National Park is a perfect spot to watch the sun set.

As you gaze seaward imagine being among the crowd gathered in 1883 to watch the Marco Polo — once the fastest sailing ship in the world — driven ashore by high winds.

Among the crowd was a young Lucy Maud Montgomery who in 1891 wrote of the wreck in one of her first published articles.

Today the wreck is a dive site — when the shifting sands cooperate.

A “Spirited Tour” of Eastern Prince Edward Island reveals a world-class winery and two distilleries where samples are inexpensive the scenic drive divine.

The village of New Glasgow, declared one of the best places to live in Canada, is home to a wonderful preserve company, a traditional lobster supper, a funky toy maker, and a golf course with a magnificent view from the restaurant.

Greenwich, located in the eastern adjunct of PEI National Park, is one of the best places to bond with nature. There are nature trails and a great interpretive center.

The gardens, the view from the tower, unique wares and working potters at the Dunes Studio and Gallery in Brackley Beach will enchant you.

The beaches of the PEI National Park are each unique to themselves. The sandspit calls one to walk miles along the surf line, many ripe with nature and marine life, while others call visitors to simply lay back and enjoy. Imagine the joy of seeking your favorite spot.

At West Point, sleep in a lighthouse lulled to dreamland by the surf just outside your door.

Pick up lobster on the wharf in North Rustico then find a picnic table to enjoy the world’s best finger food.

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come for the vistas stay for the party

welcome to the It’s no wonder Prince Edward Island was voted the #1 Top Island in Continental U.S. and Canada

by Travel + Leisure Magazine. From rolling hills and pristine sandy beaches, to world-famous seafood and award-winning golf courses, it’s a destination that’s always been filled with sun and sand. This year there are more reasons than ever to visit. 2014 marks the 150th anniversary of the Charlottetown Conference, the meeting that led to the formation of Canada. We have over 150 events planned to celebrate and we’re inviting the world. Come for the fun. Come for the sand.

Come to unwind. But this year, make a point to stay for the party.

Start planning your PEI getaway today at princeedwardisland.com | 1.877.445.4548

ATLANTIC CANADA

Romantic STAYS AND

GETAWAYS

BY Heather Laura Clarke

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY TOGETHER IN NOVA SCOTIA Tuck into a hearty meal of fresh Digby scallops, get swept up in the romance of the Cape Breton Highlands, watch a meteor shower on safari, or sail around Halifax Harbour on a tall ship. The date possibilities are endless.

Patrick Sullivan, CEO of the Nova Scotia Tourism Agency, says couples love spending time together in Canada’s Ocean Playground.

“No matter where you go in Nova Scotia, you have that sense of excitement – the

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sound of the wind, the pounding surf, the lonely cry of the seagull,” says Sullivan.

“It’s kind of the perfect place to cuddle with your loved one, and there’s so much to discover.”

Nova Scotia has more than 4,598 miles (7,400 kilometres) of coastline, and close to 1,000 different accommodations ranging from cozy cabins to luxury resorts – some of which have been around for centuries.

Halifax’s Waverley Inn has had many famous guests since opening in 1876 –

including Oscar Wilde, P.T. Barnum – and boasts antique four-poster beds and bubbling two-person jacuzzis in many of the guest rooms. At Yarmouth’s historic MacKinnon-Cann Inn, the rooms highlight 70 years of interior design – from a romantic 1910 New Era room with gold braid, to a 1960 “Vandyke-inspired” room with patterns galore. Dating back to 1837, Guysborough’s DeBarres Manor Inn combines the pampering of a boutique hotel with the warmth of a country inn – plus, enormous bathrooms that may be larger than your bedroom back home.

With its renovated lodge complete with crackling fireplace, cozy cottages, and luxurious rental homes, White Point Beach Resort is a popular destination year-round.

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ATLANTIC CANADA

“ THERE IS SOMETHING SPECIAL ABOUT NOVA SCOTIA. IT IS TRULY AN AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE.” Darlene Grant Fiander, President of TIANS

PHOTOS

Scott Munn Opposite Horseriding

in Cape Breton Below Enjoying a

stroll on the Halifax waterfront

Overlooking the Annapolis Basin, Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa has a Norman-style chateau as well as one-, two-, and three-bedroom cottages.

Trout Point Lodge in East Kemptville has been deemed “one of Canada’s best-kept secrets” by the National Post. From their wood-fired hot tub that sits on the bank of a river, to their breathtaking night skies that provide some of the best views in North America for watching meteor showers and the aurora borealis. Guests can go “on safari” with a staff astronomer to the nearby Indian Fields to get an even better skyshow. Foodies from all over fall in love with the chefs’ French-inspired dishes prepared using Acadian, Cajun, and Creole traditions.

Cape Breton was voted the most romantic place in Canada by Vacay.ca, and the Cabot Trail is described by Lonely Planet as one of the best road trips in the world. The scenic loop connects eight major communities on the island, and is best explored slowly over three to five days – stopping in different areas to soak up the culture and discover the different areas of the island.

Hike and golf through the spring and summer, and admire the burst of orange, yellow, and red leaves during the fall.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

aison D’amitie B&B M a Á L “the house of friendship”

A New New ew Oceanfront Oc Oc Oce ce eanf an a nffro n rron on o nt B&B B&B &B With Wit Wi Wit ith a Million Miiillllllilliion M on Dollar Do Dol D olllar o llar lla arr View! a Viiew! ew ew w!!

1-888-645-2601 1-88 18888-6 64 45 5--26 260 01 1

197 Base Road, N.E. 19 19 97 7 Ba B ase e Line Liine R Lin Road oa oad ad, N ad .E E..

E Cape St. Mary’s, Nova Scotia Cape Mary’s Cape Cap e St. St. Mar M ay ar y’s ’s s www.houseoffriendship.ca www w ww ww w w.ho .h use useo seoffrie offfrie off rii n nds nd dship p.ca .c ca c a carol@houseofffriendship.ca car car a ol@ ol@ @ @hou houseo hou ouseo seofff offf fffrie riiends riends rie nd dship ds hiip hip p.ca .c ca c a

COMFORT, VALUE, CONVENIENCE The comfort and affordability of our 80 well appointed guest rooms plus our convenient highway location close to restaurants, attractions, shopping malls and entertainment makes the Slumber Inn an outstanding lodging choice.

TOLL FREE 1-800-914-5005

SLUMBER INN - NEW MINAS EXIT 12, HWY 101, NEW MINAS, KINGS COUNTY, NS B4N 3K5

www.slumberinn.ca

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PHOTO

Scott Munn Enjoying dinner in downtown Halifax

The new Cabot Links golf course in Inverness is one of only four Canadian courses to make Golf Magazine’s list of the Top 100 courses in the world – coming in at No. 42 for having a rugged oceanfront landscape that challenges and delights even the best players.

Old-fashioned romance-seekers love Castle Moffett, a “romantic new-world castle” just outside of Baddeck, where guests can go horseback riding, whale watching, and sail on the Bras d’Or Lakes on a 67-foot (20 metre) schooner.

Whisk away to downtown Halifax to spend an evening at a posh hotel overlooking the harbor, and have fun in one of the Canada’s most vibrant cities.

Chives Canadian Bistro changes their menu each season to use fresh local ingredients. DaMaurizio is a long-time favorite with foodies, with decadent dishes and exceptional service. Stories Casual Fine Dining is an intimate spot on Morris Street with a unique, local menu.

After dinner, settle in for a play at Nep-

tune Theatre, grab dessert and drinks along Spring Garden Road, or wander through the Halifax Public Gardens. You can walk along the nearly two-mile (three kilometre)-long boardwalk, or see it from the adventure of hopping in a rickshaw or renting a Segway.

Finish up the night with a tranquil sail around the harbor on a tall ship, or let loose and dance on a party cruise.

Named one of the most beautiful small towns in Canada, Lunenburg makes a nice day trip from Halifax – with people coming from around the world to admire the home of the Bluenose.

The picturesque Annapolis Valley has high tides, lush orchards, and a dozen vineyards and wineries waiting to welcome you – but it’s also a place to have adventures. At OnTree Park in Windsor, you can zipline among trees and challenge yourself in different courses.

Discover the old sea captains’ homes all over downtown Yarmouth. Wander along the living wharves on the Acadian Shores to hear tales from active and retired fisher-

A historic retreat, with Victorian charm, where you’ll feel right at home. Book your reservations now at 1.800.565.9346 or visit www.waverleyinn.com 146

men, and try your hand at braiding rope and tying knots. Walk on one of more than 20 supervised beaches, splash in the Atlantic Ocean, and feel the warmth of the sun on your shoulders.

Close to 500,000 visit Peggy’s Cove each year to admire the historic lighthouse, and explore the friendly fishing village. The warm gingerbread with fresh whipped cream and hearty chowder at the Sou’Wester Restaurant are world-famous, and you can work up an appetite by going scubadiving or touring around in a sidecar.

Darlene Grant Fiander, president of TIANS (Tourism Industry Association of Nova Scotia), says Nova Scotia is blessed with such natural beauty – and so many unique places – that there really is something for everyone.

“There is something special about Nova Scotia. It is truly an authentic experience, and much of that has to do with the people and the strong sense of place that emanates in our interactions.”

1266 Barrington Street, Halifax, NS B3J 1Y5 902-423-9346 1-800-565-9346 www.waverleyinn.com

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CHESTER AREA AND

We’re your excuse for a road trip adventure.

A Truly Unique Seaside Golf Experience GOLF CLUB

220 Golf Course Road Chester, Nova Scotia 902-275-4543 www.chestergolfclub.ca

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The adventure begins as you follow the scenic travelway along the Lighthouse Route on Nova Scotiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful south shore.

ge ls Pa etai l l u D r F ort u s e o Re Se for Ad

Explore our seaside hamlets along the coast. Visit our shops, restaurants, farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets or play a round of golf.

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Stay Seaside

Between Exit 9 and 10

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HUBBARDS BEACH campground & cottages

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â&#x20AC;˘ Charming Oceanfront Cottages â&#x20AC;˘ Rustic Orchard Cabins â&#x20AC;˘ Full-service Campground Sites â&#x20AC;˘ Beautiful WHITE SAND BEACH â&#x20AC;˘ Free WIFI 226 Shore Club Rd, Hubbards Tel: 857-9460 â&#x20AC;˘ Toll FREE: 1-855-858-9460 www.hubbardsbeach.com

For the Gardener

4 acres of â&#x20AC;&#x153;everything gardenâ&#x20AC;?

For the Traveller

Huge gift shop, souvenirs, ice cream & so much more!

4392 Hwy #3, Chester, NS 2.5 kms off exit 8 Hwy 103 www.plantcrazy.ca email: admin@plantcrazy.ca

ay #3, Chester B0J 1J0 | 902 275 4616 | www.ChesterAreaNS.ca

IN A SNAPSHOT

Day in the life

1

MAINE

BY Michele Stapleton

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IN A SNAPSHOT

2

3

4

5

PHOTOS 1. Tying up a ship on the Portland waterfront

4. Enjoying the art at Bowdoin College Museum of Art, Brunswick.

2. At the Coastal Studies Center in Harpswell, Maine Bowdoin College students gather samples at low tide.

5. Harvesting cucumbers in the organic garden in Brunswick that is operated for Bowdoin College.

3. Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound, Trenton, Maine

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The Homeport Motel Lunenburg NS Air conditoned Family suites and Motel rooms All rooms have queen or king beds All rooms are non-‐smoking, free wifi Guest Laundromat, BBq’s available walking distance to waterfront next to grocery & liquor store, Tim Hortons 167 Victoria Road • Hwy # 3 Tel: (902) 634-8234 or 1-800-616-4411 info@homeportmotel.com www.homeportmotel.com

29th Annual

A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE & Home of BLUENOSE II O pe n May - O c t

Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic

Eve r y T hurs d ay mor ning

Lunenburg Farmers’ Market Heritage Bandstand Concerts

Ev e r y S u n d a y, Ju l y t o S e p t .

July 1 2

Lunenburg Street Festival & Art Walk

July 1 2 & 1 3

Lunenburg Festival of Crafts Lunenburg Art Gallery Paint Sea on Site & Silent Auction

July 1 9 & 2 0

B ox wood Music Festival

July 2 0 to 2 6

Lunenburg Wooden Boat Regatta & Reunion

July 2 6 & 2 7 Aug u st 3

26th Annual Nova Scotia Folk Art Festival 29th Annual Folk Harbour Festival

August 7 - 10, 2014

www.folkharbour.com Concerts in historic & outdoor venues Traditional music conference Stages & workshops throughout town Sunday Gospel Concert Family Friendly Fun

August 7 to 10

Newfie Days

October 17 to 19

Santa Claus Parade & Pilgrimage

November 29

WiFi · business / service directory · · events calendar · self guided tours ·

CAMP

in historic Lunenburg

“Unsurpassed location with scenic views of both Front & Back Harbours” 11 BLOCKHOUSE HILL ROAD

· 55 sites · reservations accepted · Daily & Weekly rates · 22 EWS, 23 EW, 10 UNS · Pets welcome · Internet access & Wi-Fi · Municipal Water & dump station · Visa, Mastercard & Debit accepted

1-888-615-8305 1-902-634-8100 www.lunenburgns.com

www.lunenburgns.com

IN A SNAPSHOT

Day in the life

1

NOVA SCOTIA

BY Scott Munn

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IN A SNAPSHOT

2

3

4

5

PHOTOS 1. Hikers descend the wooden steps of the Skyline Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

4. Musicians in Mabou, Cape Breton continue to keep the traditions of celtic music alive.

2. A surfer strolls along the sandy path toward Point Michaud, Cape Breton.

5. Kayakers explore Herring Cove, one of the many quaint ďŹ shing villages just minutes away from Halifax.

3. Acadian dancers in Cheticamp, Cape Breton celebrate their rich history.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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Windsor Hantsport West Hants

Birthplace of Hockey - Windsor, Nova Scotia Ice Hockey’s Original Home Ice Come explore Windsor’s Hockey Heritage Museum* and Gift Shop!

See the beginning evolution and development of ice hockey from c.1800 to modern day.

Tour and view artifacts in: • Trophy Room • Locker Room • Hot Stove • Roots Room and the Attic

VV

WOODSHIRE ODSHIRE INN INN ❖ ❖ ❖

Casual family dining at EAT Fine dining at Cocoa Pesto Bistro Garden patio outdoor dining

WWW.THEWOODSHIRE.COM 494 KING STREET, WINDSOR, NS 902-472-3300 ❖

VV ❖

Located in Historic Haliburton House 424 Clifton Ave, Windsor, NS For open dates, hours and admission visit: BirthplaceOfHockey.com

*Operated by Windsor Hockey Heritage Society

Sunflower Maze, Mount Denson

Recreation

Relaxation ?

Visitor Information Centres: Off Highway 101....

Town of Hantsport, Exit 8 Windsor/ West Hants, Exit 6

Directions:

Off Highway 101... via Exit 8, 7, 6, 5A, 5 or 4... less than 45 minutes from Halifax or 2 1/2 hours from Yarmouth

Riveting

Visit Hockey’s Roots, See Where it all Began!

Dill Family Farm 400 College Road Walk or Drive the Trivia Trail to Long Pond, Canada’s Oldest Documented site c 1800 Open Daily, 9am - 5pm • gameofhockey.com Tel 902-798-2728 • email howarddill@yahoo.ca Old Hockey Memorabilia and Souvenirs for sale and display

Home Of the World’s Biggest Pumpkin Variety Dill’s Atlantic Giant 400 College Road Visit the historic giant pumpkin patches of the late Howard Dill-originator of ATLANTIC GIANT Pumpkins that are now over 2,000 lbs.!

Open Daily 9am - 5pm • howarddill.com • tel 902-798-2728 Gift Shop Displays Gardens Local Produce (August-October)

FOR YOUR INTEREST

LOCAL

apps

Here are some local apps you should check out:

FOR NOVA SCOTIA Visit Halifax Mobile App The free Visit Halifax Mobile App is the official Mobile Concierge for Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. This customized and interactive app has GPS-enabled maps, weather updates, Halifax festivals and events information and the ability to save your favorite points of interest with a tap of the finger.

The Nova Scotia Mobile Travel Guide App This app is the perfect tool for discovering fun festivals, one-of-a-kind events, and new destinations. Spectacular photos, lively stories, the latest news and immersive video will help bring Nova Scotia to life and inspire your next adventure.

Motorcycle Tour Guide Nova Scotia App Created by Harold and Wendy Nesbitt, both native Nova Scotians and avid motorcyclists for 40 years, this guide is written with a personal touch. Their unique and direct approach as to what lies around the next corner helps you to divert from the beaten path, and experience all Nova Scotia has to offer. This popular guide is an indispensable resource for all visitors whether traveling by motorcycle, car or RV.

Music Nova Scotia App Now you can find out where to go when for all your favorite artists at Nova Scotia Music Week or anywhere in the province with your iPhone and Blackberry. Make your own schedule, stay on top of breaking news.

The Chronicle Herald App Chosen as App Store Best of 2013 and newly redesigned for iOS 7, The Chronicle Herald app gives you access to the most up-to-date Nova Scotia news and information like never before. Stay on top of breaking news with new push notifications, an integrated e-paper reader, additional photos and videos, Extra! functionality to view augmented reality content in the print edition and much more! Download for free on the App Store today.

Transit 360 App Get information about the Halifax transit system in the palm of your hand. Quickly locate and navigate the stops and routes around you with this ideal guide to public transportation.

Casino Taxi App This app is one of fastest, and easiest way to order a Casino Taxi cab in Halifax. The free app is simple, easy to use, and provides real time information on the status of your taxi order. In as few as three clicks, you can enter your taxi request and immediately receive a confirmation of booking.

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FOR YOUR INTEREST

The Weather Network App

Great Maine Food App from Down East Magazine

Get instant access to local weather and alerts for wherever you’re headed in Canada.

Features the foods of Maine and provides the latest, updated information about the hottest eateries in the coastal areas of the state.

Great Maine Food has over 100 recipes ranging from piquant appetizers to mouth-watering desserts (lobster gets its own section).

FOR MAINE

Maine At-Hand

Acadia National Park App Acadia is home to breath-taking Maine coastline, the first place the sun shines on the east coast of the United States and over 50 miles of world famous carriage roads. The Chimani Acadia app includes over 300 unique points of interest.

Discover a go-to guide for discovering and exploring New England with location-based and keyword search. Includes activities, destinations and hidden gems.

The Maine App

Everything to do with Maine lobster, from restaurants and fun facts to recipes. Search a database of restaurant listings, take-out restaurants and shipping options to get Maine lobster.

Discover Maine restaurants, lodging, recreation, services, out of the way attractions and more with the free The Maine App for iPhone, iPad & Android. View photos, driving directions, make reservations. Search or browse local services by region or town.

Freeport Maine App Explore Freeport, a beautiful coastal Maine village north of Portland, with over 200 upscale outlets, designer shops, eclectic boutiques, B&Bs, hotels, great restaurants and casual cafes.

Maine Lobster Guide App

Maine Coast Revealed From southern Maine to Acadia National Park, this app will take you there via nearly 300 not-to-be-missed sites, must-do activities and hidden gems in coastal Maine. Includes nearly 2,000 photos.

Portland Magazine App Learn about fun things to do in Maine’s largest seaport city and throughout the state.

Craft Brewery • Irish Charm • Hearty Entrees • Local sourced ingredients • Gluten Free options • Growlers of Beer to Go SERVICE BILINGUE / BILINGUAL SERVICES

info@robertlong.ca • cell: 902-769-8722

Let us help you find a home.

• Local wines • Irish Music & More Lobster available only at our Wolfville location

99 Water Street, Yarmouth, NS 902 742 8844 WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

info@futuregrouprealty.ca www.futuregrouprealty.ca

Two Great Locations in the Annapolis Valley Charming Town of Wolfville Shiretown of Kentville 460 Main St., 542-0059 42 Aberdeen St., 678-3199

Visit us at www.paddyspub.ca 159

R

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INTERESTING USED BOOKS

112 FRONT STREET, UNIT 118 1A4 TEL. 902.542.9491 theoddbook@ns.sympatico.ca

WOLFVILLE, NS, CANADA B4P

Look no further....

Welcome to the Gingerbread House Inn Located in Nova Scotia’s scenic Annapolis Valley, Gingerbread House Inn is not your traditional Bed and Breakfast. With three rooms and four suites, we offer an experience that will make you come back again and again.

Our location makes us an ideal home base from which to discover and explore all the wonders Nova Scotia has to offer. Take a day trip to Halifax, go whale watching, visit historic sites, walk on the nearby dykelands, see the world’s highest tides, go skiing, enjoy fine dining...or perhaps you are looking for a romantic getaway for two. ...So much more than a B&B! Robie Tufts Drive, Wolfville, Nova Scotia B4P 1X1 • Toll-Free: 1-888-542-1458 • Phone: 902-542-1458

464 Main Street Wolfville, Nova Scotia

ww

OLD ORCHARD INN & SPA In the Heart of Wine Country

TOLL FREE 1-800-561-8090 EXIT 11 • HWY 101 • GREENWICH KINGS COUNTY • NOVA SCOTIA • B4P 2R2

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A

Roselawn Lodging 32 Main Street, Wolfville, NS

Cottages C ott ttages & M Motel ottell U Units nit its Kitchen & Full Bath

902.542.3420 902 90 2 54 5422 34 3420 20 11.866.710.5900 8666 71 86 7100 59 5900 00 roselawn@ns.aliantzinc.ca www.roselawnlodging.ca

Like Lik Us U On O Facebook F b k www.facebook.com/roselawnlodging Follow Us On Twitter @roselawnlodging

600 Main St. Wolfville NS, B4P 1E8 Toll Free: 1-800-556-5744 16 Rooms featuring complimentary hot gourmet breakfast, high speed internet with luxury rooms. www.victoriasinn.com

stay@victoriasinn.com

Canada Select Five Star ★★★★★

MAPS

NEW ENGLAND

HOW FAR IS IT FROM PORTLAND … … to Boston?

107 miles (172km) or about a 1.5 hour drive … to New York?

314 miles (505km) or about a 5 hour drive … to Concord?

109 miles (175km) or about a 1.5 hour drive … to Bangor?

129 miles (207km) or just under a 2 hour drive … to Providence?

163 miles (262km) or about a 2.5 hour drive

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MAPS

ATLANTIC CANADA

NEWFOUNDLAND

HOW FAR IS IT FROM YARMOUTH … … to Halifax?

303km (188 miles) or about a 3 hour drive … to Sydney?

697km (433 miles) or just over a 7 hour drive … to Kentville?

225km (139 miles) or about a 2.5 hour drive … to Charlottetown?

624km (387 miles) or just over a 6 hour drive … to Moncton?

334km (207 miles) or about a 5.5 hour drive

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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GALLERY SCHEDULE

Tidemark GALLERY 2014 EXHIBITING ARTISTS

Sue Hutchins

Peter Gough

MAY 15 - JUNE 15

AUGUST 15 - SEPTEMBER 15

Nova Scotia Artists: Peter Gough (Acrylic) Sue Hutchins (Photography)

Nova Scotia Artists: Paul Hannon (Oil) Christopher Corey (Watercolor)

Maine Artists: Randy Eckard (Watercolor) Greg Currier (Photography)

Maine Artists: Kevin Beers (Oil) Bill Paul (Photography)

JUNE 15 - JULY 15

SEPTEMBER 15 - NOVEMBER 2

Nova Scotia Artists: William Rogers (Watercolor) Sandi Komst (Mixed Media)

Nova Scotia Artists: Susan Paterson (Mixed Media) Nora Gross (Watercolor)

Maine Artists: Deborah Randall (Oil) Patrick DeSantis (Acrylic)

Maine Artists: Suzanne Payne (Pastel) Jill Previti (Watercolor)

Peter Gough

JULY 15 - AUGUST 15 Nova Scotia Artists: Bill Curry (Photography) Malcolm Callaway (Oil) Maine Artists: Stephen Maka (Photography) Harry Thompson (Watercolor) Sue Hutchins

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The closest campground to the Yarmouth ferry Big Rig Pull-Thru Sites • 50, 30 & 15 amp Full Service Seasonal/Overnight Sites • Pool • Hot Tub • Laundry • Spring Fed Lake • Fishing • WIFI • Mini-Golf • Activities • Full Service Comfort Stations Closest Campground to downtown Yarmouth, Nova Scotia 3 miles east of Yarmouth, 9700 Highway 3, Starrs Road

Campground (902) 742-4848

Reservations 1-800-565-0000 www.campershavencampground.com

69 SPACIOUS NONSMOKING ROOMS COMPLIMENTARY HOT BREAKFAST LICENSED DINING ROOM INDOOR HEATED POOL FITNESS CENTRE FREE LONG DISTANCE CALLS FREE WIFI BUSINESS CENTRE

Days Inn and Conference Centre Hwy 103, Exit 12, 50 North St, Bridgewater, NS B4V 2V6

877-543-7131 • 800-329-7466 www.daysinn.ca

SHIP INFORMATION

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND

Nova Star

Throughout the ship, you’ll see signs to help you find restaurants, entertainment and other amenities and facilities on board Nova Star. Below is a guide that explains what each of the commonly used symbols mean. On the following pages are diagrams showing the layout of each deck so you can see where everything is located and easily find anything you’re looking for.

KEY TO SIGNAGE

DECK 3

DECK 5

DECK 6

DECK 8

DECK 9

DECK 10

INFORMATION

STAIRS

ELEVATOR

CABIN

RECLINER SEAT

WOMEN

MEN

MEN/WOMEN

ACCESSIBILITY

SMOKING

SHOWERS

BABY CARE

RESTAURANT

BAR

CAFE

CONFERENCE CENTER

OPEN DECK

SHOP

GAMING

PLAY AREA

SPA

KENNEL

GYM

CAR

CAMPER/TRAILOR

TRUCK

AVAILABLE ON BOARD:

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DECK 7

WIFI

STARBOARD SUMMER 2014

SHIP INFORMATION

NOVA SPA

Be pampered and revitalize yourself with a stop in our full-service spa.

CURRENTS RESTAURANT

Enjoy an upscale, high style dining experience!

RECLINER SEATS LIDO DECK

For outdoor enjoyment in fine weather.

Sit back, relax and enjoy the ride in your own assigned seat.

NOVATIQUE RETAIL STORE

For specialty products and gifts, duty-free goods, candy, books and daily necessities.

SEAGLASS BAR Décor inspired by sea glass, with large windows to see the sea.

SHIPSHAPE GYM

Free to use for all guests over age 16.

Inquire with guest services for access.

SHRIMP QUARTERS

KEYS LOUNGE

Children’s play area with movies, games and more.

BIG NELLIE’S

Sit back and relax and take in the view of the waves.

A piano bar with a panoramic view of the Gulf of Maine.

CENTURY CASINO

Offers a variety of gaming options for guests over age 19.

PIPER’S PUB FATHOMS BUFFET

Offering a bounty of choices sure to please every palate.

Converts from a coffee bar in the morning to a comfy pub later on.

AQUA CONFERENCE CENTER & THEATER

For dancing, themed events, enrichment programs and business conferences.

TIDEMARK GALLERY

Showcasing some of the finest work from Nova Scotia and Maine.

PRIVATE CABINS

For the highest level of comfort and convenience during your voyage.

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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SHIP INFORMATION

WHAT’S WHERE ON

which deck?

Use this deck-by-deck guide to find your way around Nova Star.

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SHIP INFORMATION

WWW.NOVASTARCRUISES.COM

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SAFETY PROCEDURES

FOR YOUR

safety

In the event of a fire or other emergency, the emergency signal – 7 short blasts followed by one long blast – will sound throughout the ship. This alarm is the signal for all passengers to go to their designated Assembly Station so everyone can be accounted for and, if necessary, prepare to safely evacuate the ship.

There are 8 Assembly Stations (also known as Life Boat Stations or Muster Stations) on board Nova Star. Each Assembly Station has a letter “A” through “H.” Every passenger will be assigned to a specific Assembly Station. If you book a cabin, the letter of your Assembly Station is shown on the sign on the inside of your cabin door. For passengers who book a recliner seat, the letter of your Assembly Station is posted in your seating area. For those passengers who do not book a cabin or a recliner seat, the letter of your Assembly Station will be shown on your boarding pass.

KNOW WHERE TO GO

When you board the ship, please familiarize yourself with the letter of your Assembly Station —and the fastest route to get there — so you know where to go in case of an emergency.

GUIDE TO ONBOARD SECURITY Nova Star Cruises is dedicated to providing an enjoyable and safe cruise experience for every guest. As required by the Cruise Vessel Security and Safety Act of 2010, the following information is provided as part of our commitment to your safety and security.

According to United States federal law, on international voyages that embark or debark in the United States, Nova Star Cruises is required to report onboard felonies and missing United States nationals to federal agencies.

For a missing United States national and all serious felonies (homicide, suspicious death, kidnapping, assault with serious bodily injury, sexual assaults as defined by federal laws, firing or tampering with the vessel, or theft of money or property in excess of $10,000) the incident must be reported to the F.B.I. by telephone as soon as possible, to the United States Department of Homeland Security 170

electronically and to the U.S. Coast Guard in writing. These requirements apply to onboard incidents that occur while the ship is in United States territorial waters, or on the high seas or in foreign waters if the victim or perpetrator is a United States national.

The F.B.I. can assert criminal jurisdiction in all of these circumstances. Canada, as well as The Bahamas, the vessel’s nation of registry, may also assert jurisdiction and/or impose additional reporting requirements.

Should you become aware of someone being injured or of unsafe or possibly illegal behavior during your voyage, it is very important that you immediately report this to the ship’s management, by going to the Guest Services Desk or Head Purser’s Office. If you do not immediately report an injury or unsafe/illegal behavior this delay may cause ship’s personnel to be unable to effectively respond to the situation and unable

to properly preserve information or evidence that could assist law enforcement’s investigation and prosecution of those responsible.

For missing persons or felonies arising at any time during the voyage, you may independently contact the F.B.I. or U.S. Coast Guard. For incidents within state or foreign waters or ports, you may in addition, contact local law enforcement authorities. Contact information for these entities is listed below.

U.S. COAST GUARD

Washington, DC (202) 267-2100 F.B.I.

Boston, MA (617) 742-5533 ROYAL CANADIAN MOUNTED POLICE

Yarmouth, NS (902) 742-8777 STARBOARD SUMMER 2014