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T R A V E L | P E O P L E | O U T D O O R S

PHOTO COURTESY HOGLE ZOO

WILD NIGHTS WITH ZOO

LIGHTS

ANIMAL LANTERNS ILLUMINATE Utah’s Hogle Zoo at night come every holiday season. A lit pathway guides visitors on this festive safari through zoo grounds and a crowd-pleasing 135- foot lighted tunnel. It’s not your typical Santa-and-his-reindeer or infantswadled-in-a-hay-bale holiday display. Rather, more than 200 beasts of the savanna or jungle get a spotlight. A hot cup of cocoa makes Zoo Lights a delightful stop on a tour the best holiday displays around, hoglezoo.org.

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THE HIVE

COMMUNITY

Christmas Street in Taylorsville

Each home in this Taylorsville neighborhooddecorates by using as inspirationa page from the Clement Clarke Moorepoem A Visit From St. Nicholas, morecommonly known as The Night BeforeChristmas. Starting from one end of theblock and walking to the other, visitorscan recite the entire poem. As far as wecan tell, this tradition has prevailed forat least two decades.

5400 S. 3200 West, Taylorsville

MEET UTAH’S GRISWOLDS

Over-the-top homegrown holiday display extravaganzas

BY CHRISTIE PORTER

MORE THAN 30 YEARS AGO,

we laughed at Clark Griswold’s gratuitous display of Christmas cheer in National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. Chevy Chase’s character decked his home with a Merry Christmas sign, Santa Claus, eight reindeer and 250 strands of lights with 100 bulbs each—packing enough wattage to blind his neighbors. No offense to fans of the ’80s Christmas classic, but that’s nothing compared to some of the homegrown holiday displays in Utah neighborhoods.

In 2020, internet provider CenturyLink compiled data on Google searches, online shopping trends, holiday music streaming and social media posts about Christmas and determined that Utah was the state with more Christmas cheer than any other. As such, Salt Lake is a stocking stuffed full of its very own modern Griswold families finding bigger, better and brighter ways to display their love for the holidays.

Christmas Street in Sugar House

Salt Lake City’s Sugar House neighborhoodis home to some holiday staples,including the Santa Shack and SaltLake City’s Christmas Street (whichis actually named Glen Arbor Street).Legend has it, the tradition startedmore than 70 years ago with a singlestrand of white lights connectingall of the homes. Now, many of thestreet’s residents decorate their homesindividually and the tradition continuesin a much grander fashion.

1500 E. 1735 South, Salt Lake City

Frosty’s Winter Wonderland

Another decades-long tradition, thisChristmas display in Salt Lake’s Avenuesneighborhood claims to be “the best, biggestand brightest Christmas light displayin Utah! Visible from space!” The displayis certainly visible to a large part of thecity as a beaming beacon of cheer on thehillside. The street corner is illuminatedby hundreds of glowing plastic nutcrackers,elves, snowmen and wise men (andeven a blow-up Clark Griswold).

805 E. 18th Avenue, Salt Lake City

Miracle Cove in Magna

This neighborhood goes all-out for theholidays, and it gets bigger and brighterevery year. Some houses erect massivenativity scenes, some synchronizetheir blinking light displays to popularChristmas songs, but all of them aredecked out in thousands and thousandsof lights, easily surpassing Griswold’smeasly 250 strands.

7325 W. 3100 South, Magna

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SATIRE

DEAR POTENTIAL LANDLORD

Just wanted to send you a friendly note hoping you’ll consider our rental application

BY JEREMY PUGH

Dear Future Landlord (we hope, fingers crossed!),

Just writing a personal note about my recent application to rent the apartment you have available. It would be perfect for me and my boyfriend! We’re “outdoorsy” types who moved here because my marketing job in San Francisco says I can live anywhere now and who can afford to live there? Not me and Seamus that’s for sure. Yes, I did notice that the stove doesn’t work but that’s OK, Seamus totally has a camp stove because we just love camping and feel like living in your one-bedroom shack for $2,300 a month would feel a lot like camping every day! We love the wildlife living in the attic although we’re new to Utah so we weren’t sure if those were birds or baby raccoons scuttling around up there. Either way, we’re looking forward to adopting more fur (or feather) babies!

On that, the application noted that pets are accepted with a $1,000 pet deposit. Our 1-year-old black lab puppy is so well-behaved (you have to meet him!) We wondered if you’d consider waiving that fee. We only mention it because the place is mainly bare wooden studs and exposed nails (which we love, very rustic), we’re not sure what little Arches (we named him after the national park!) could actually damage in there.

I did have a question about the wires hanging from the ceiling. Were those attached to fire alarms at some point? I only ask because of the open flames from our camp stove and my mom is worried. You know how moms are, right? Always with the advice. Don’t move to Utah with some guy you met on Tinder, blah blah blah stuff, like that.

You’ll notice that I’ve already Venmo-ed you for the first and last month’s rent, non-refundable cleaning deposit, application fee, credit check fee and background check fee. Also, please find attached a scan of my social security card, driver’s license and passport as well as this super cute picture of me and Seamus in the mountains—our true love. (Seamus was trying to teach me to ski, so he looks a little grouchy, but deep down he’s a sweetie!) We know you have a lot of interest and the rental market is very competitive but we hope you’ll consider our application (or put in a good word for us to the owners of the adorably renovated children’s playhouse across the street) so we can start our Utah adventure together! #utahisrad!

Peace and love,

Madison and Seamus ( and Arches)

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PROFILE

Visit Salt Lake CEO Kaitlin Esekelson in front of a new mural at Hip & Humble at 9th and 9th.

SHE AIN’T SCARED

Visit Salt Lake’s CEO makes lemonade from lemons

BY JEREMY PUGH

IT’S A FAMILIAR TALE. Bright-eyed youngsters come here to ski and end up staying in Utah. But not every ski bum who found their way West grows up to become the head cheerleader for Salt Lake City.

Kaitlin Eskelson, the new CEO of Visit Salt Lake, came to Utah from Wisconsin when she was 22 and parlayed her love of the mountains above the city into a career inspiring the world to discover SLC.

And, in another familiar story, she took the job in March of 2020—yes, that March—starting a new job whose main purpose is to bring conventions and visitors to Salt Lake en masse.

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

32 SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

“The pandemic forced us to pivot on behalf of the business community and really focus on providing support services for the small business who depend on the visitor economy,” she says.

To that end, Visit Salt Lake became a resource helping members in navigating the red tape to find assistance for weathering the lockdown, providing webinars and advice for the local business community.

“We went from being 100% outward facing to looking inward, finding ways to dig in and assist the community,” Eskelsen says.

Eskelson is a make-lemonade-fromlemons type of leader. She had been honing her craft, educating and preparing herself for the top spot at Visit Salt Lake for the bulk of her career. She earned a Master of Public Administration degree from the University of Utah. Passionate about Utah and the people who call it home, she is a tireless advocate who has dedicated her

years of study to the promotion of Salt Lake and the state of Utah as a collective gem of a travel destination.

“I think what happened was about 10 years ahead of schedule,” she says. “Meetings

WE HAVE A RICH HISTORY COMBINED WITH A FORWARD- THINKING FUTURE

—KAITLIN ESKELSON

and conventions were already moving toward hybrid configurations with in-person and virtual components.”

To speed that transition, VSL took advantage of the downtime to build a media center in the Salt Palace to facilitate virtual meetings. Projects that were in the works continued full speed, including the construction on the much-discussed convention hotel near the Salt Palace and a full rebranding of the city’s image. The new slogan “West of Conventional” leans into Utah’s contradictions.

“We are a community of juxtapositions,” she says. “We have a rich history combined with a forward-thinking future. A lot of times in the past we’ve been apologetic about who we really are. We’re celebrating these intersections and honoring our diverse culture and history.”

As Eskelsen continues to navigate the ever-changing waters ahead she likes to remind people that she can handle a challenge. Why?

“I have twins. I’m not scared of anything.”

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 | SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM 33

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HOME STYLE

“ ON PURPOSE

A home bar isn’t reallyabout practicality, it’sabout showing off. It’sabout entertaining,it’s about pretendingthat you are HumphreyBogart or JoanCrawford for theevening.

UPGRADE YOUR COCKTAIL GAME

Beyond-the-basics bar tools you need now

WHAT WE LEARNED FROM THE HOME BAR

Any good barkeep knows there’s more to know than how to pour.

“ ON BITTERS

A good way to thinkof bitters is as thesalt and pepper ofthe cocktail cabinet,finishing off, bringingout flavors, sharpeningthings up.

“

ON BAR CARTS

It’s very hard forguests to say no whenthe trolley is in front ofthem, and it’s ideal forthe picky, as they canspecify their drink justhow they want it.

BY BRAD MEE

HERE’S A TOAST to author Henry

Jeffreys for his savvy and practical guide to “Designing, Equipping and Stocking Your Own Bar.” With witty narrative and beautiful photos, he delves into designing and equipping your perfect home bar, as well as the cultural (and amusing) history of drinking and 30 cocktail recipes—ranging from classics to cutting-edge.

“ON

MEASURING

Making cocktails is

an exact science;it’s more like bakingthan cooking. Youshould be suspiciousof bartenders who doeverything by sight.Sky 3-piece shaker set by Georg Jensen, $189, O.C. Tanner Jewelers, octannerjewelers.com; Chirpy Wine Pourer, $28, The Garden Store, SLC, thegardenstoresaltlake.com; Blossom Picks, $15, New Orientation, SLC, neworientation.com; Hammerhead bottle openers/corkscrew, $20, Glass House, SLC, glasshouseslc.com; Amalfi martini glass, $18, Alice Lane Home Collection, SLC, alicelanehome.com; Felt Coasters, $28 (set of 4), Salt & Honey, SLC, saltandhoneymarket.com

PHOTO (BOOK) ADAM FINKLE

34 SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

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THE HIVE

COMMUNITY

WINTER SKIN

Help your skin survive Utah winters

BY CHRISTIE PORTER

BETWEEN THE COLD TEM-

PERATURES, infrequent moisture and bad air, winter in Utah is not doing our skin any favors. In fact, the season might be actively conspiring to make all of us dry, red and chapped from November-March. It’s not completely hopeless, though. According to the staff at Got Beauty salon and spa, there are some steps we can take to save our skin this winter.

Expert Tip:

CARING FOR SENSITIVE SKIN IN WINTER

“My favorite ‘save face’ product for winter is the TissueRepair Cream from M’lis (retails $15 per oz). It helpswith that cold break down as well as my eczema. I alsolove the Purete Skin Health Kit from Phytomer (retails$70). It’s the ultimate inversion debunk kit that willkeep your skin safe through winter.” —Isha

Raised in Utah, Tenisha “Isha” Hicks is a celebrity esthetician who owns two beauty wellness businesses, including Isha Esthetics and Wellness (4700 S. 900 East, Ste. 26, SLC, ishaesthetics.com), where she works with her highly trained staff.

PHOTO COURTESY TENISHA HICKS

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1. EXFOLIATE A gentle exfoliant can clear off the dry,dead skin that can cause irritation andbreakouts. You can also use an exfoliatinglip scrub to help with chapped lips.

2. TIME TO MOISTURIZE Put on moisturizer after the shower (whichshould be warm, not hot, to avoid overdryingyour skin), while your skin is slightlydamp. You can also reapply throughout theday as needed. If your skin is particularlyparched, switch to a moisturizer especiallyfor dry or sensitive skin and considerinvesting in a humidifier.

3. SPEAKING OF MOISTURE Drink lots of water. Just do it.

4. PROTECTION FROM THE ELEMENTS Bundle up to protect your skin from thecold and, for the parts you can’t cover up,wear sunscreen to avoid sun damage.

5. LIP BALM BUT NO LICKING

Keep a healing and hydrating lip balm in yourpocket this winter and apply it before you putanything else on your lips. And do not lickyour lips. It only makes them more chapped.

6. SPECIAL FOOT CARE Soaking your feet for a few minutes thenscrubbing with a pumice sponge can helpslough off that flaky skin. Afterwards, youcan use peppermint essential oil to helpsoften and heal any dry, cracked areas.

7. TAKE YOUR SUPPLEMENTS Got Beauty recommends takingOmega-3 and Vitamin E to help skinretain moisture and collagen and biotinfor overall skin health.

Got Beauty, 904 E. 2100 South, SLC,801-0474-2090, gotbeauty.com

Susan Niedwick, CFP ®

Senior Wealth Management Advisor

Susan@Cutler.com

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(801) 783-1833

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 | SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM 37

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FOOD

FEELING TOO TIMID TO TRY STRAIGHT ESPRESSO?

HERE ARE A FEW LESS-INTIMIDATING OPTIONS:

ESPRESSOMACCHIATOA shot with a scoop offoam on top, also greatwith a bit of caramel ormocha on the top if youlike it sweet.

ESPRESSOCON PANNAA shot with a generousdollop of whippedcream on top.

UNDERTOWPick your favorite syrupflavor and cross yourfingers your barista knowshow to make this. Alayering of two pumps ofsyrup, topped with 1 oz ofhalf and half, with a shotof espresso floated alongthe top. If your baristacan’t float the espresso, itisn’t worth your time. Thekey to this one is to drinkit all at once.

ESPRESSO EPICURE

THERE IS ONLY ONE perfect espressobased beverage: two shots of Ethiopian

Sun-Dried Espresso tamped and layered with 2 teaspoons of raw sugar, infused with 3 ounces of fresh aerated milk and finished with a ½ inch of foam laced with strokes of caramel. Sorry, Starbuckians—those automatic machines aren’t capable of making this drink—for this one, you need to control the tamping in the portafilter.

This might not be your perfect cup, but until you spin a few miles on an espresso machine’s odometer, it’s hard to know which drink is your favorite. For those of us who don’t have the time, or patience, to discover your perfect drink, the first step is to understand espresso basics; after that, the rest is easy.

The most important part of the espresso shot is the quality of the crema—you know, that beautiful rim of golden sunshine resting at the top of the shot glass. This is where the magic happens. If you’ve experienced ordering the same drink and having it taste five different ways, nonexistent or underdeveloped crema is likely the culprit. Finding a superb barista is a challenge within itself—and for that reason, I only order my perfect cup of coffee when I know my barista is good, so when you find one, tip them well!

Jaxsen Layton of Salt Lake Roasting Co. is my barista of choice. He understands what it takes to pour excellent espresso, “For a good espresso shot, it’s extremely important to have all aspects just right, from the coarseness/fineness of the grind, the amount of pressure when tamping and the ratio of water to coffee. Once those are just right, the last thing I look for is a good consistent crema throughout the whole shot. This is my indicator of the quality of my espresso shot.”

Understanding the coffee house lifeblood

BY BLAKELY PAGE

CREMA

BODY

HEART

Having located a go-to barista like Layton, you have a decision to make. Do you prefer the good ol’ roasty mc-roasted beans the corporate giants have accustomed us to or do you gravitate toward a blonde roast? If you want things sweet and creamy, go for the darker roast; if you prefer your coffee black, take a walk on the lighter side. Knowing your preference is a game changer, so order a demitasse the next time you stop in to see your favorite roaster.

ESPRESSO

AFFOGATO A shot of espresso poured over a scoop of ice cream, usually vanilla.CAPPUCCINO VS. LATTE

Don’t be the dud demanding a cappuccino with little foam, no matter how satisfying it is to say the word. If your favorite drink is only topped with an inch of foam or less, next time do your barista a favor and order a latte.

Cappuccino

Latte38 SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

f

THE HIVE

STATEWATCH

THE FINAL DASH TO DRAW NEW DISTRICTS

Every 10 years, states redraw the boundaries of congressional, state senate, state house and school board districts—how Utah is different this year (yet exactly the same)

BY CHRISTIE PORTER

BY THE TIME THIS PUBLICATION hits newsstands

and mailboxes, we’ll be in the final hours of Utah’s redistricting process. The process was already rushed this year, thanks to COVID and delays in getting 2020 census data, but the Utah State Legislature still has to vote on the new boundaries in time to have them in place by the beginning of 2022. The last chance Utah voters have to potentially impact what those boundaries look like is at a public hearing at the Utah State Capitol on Nov. 10. Pardon the bold text, but if you want your vote to count for as much as your neighbor’s in another district, this should matter to you. After the Legislature decides, we’re stuck with what we get for another 10 years.

This year—two groups are engaged in simultaneous, but mostly separate, redistricting efforts. Both groups are holding public hearings and calling on Utah citizens to draw and submit their ideas for possible boundary maps. Both groups are making their own maps and meeting to decide which maps provide the best representation for Utah’s burgeoning population. But only one group has the authority on which potential boundary maps are put up to the legislature for final approval. In the end, the other group’s maps might not even get a vote.

So, why have two redistricting groups at all? Because a majority

of Utah voters wanted it that way (by about 7,000 votes). Flashback to 2018. The group Better Boundaries put forth Proposition 4, which would create the Utah Independent Redistricting Commission to draw up electoral boundary maps and recommend them to the legislature. The Legislature could then vote on whether to approve or reject those maps. The intention was that an independent commission would not be drawing the boundaries of their own districts, as legislators would, and, therefore would not have conflicts of interest or incentive to gerrymander. “It centers redistricting on voters versus centering it on politicians,” Better Boundaries executive director Katie Wright says of the independent commission. “Better Boundaries believes that voters should be choosing their politicians, not politicians choosing their voters.”

But, here’s the thing. Lawmakers are still drawing maps of their own districts. After the proposition passed, lawmakers threatened to repeal the initiative altogether, so Better Boundaries came to the table to negotiate. The 2020 compromise, Senate Bill 200, rolls back some of the initiative’s original redistricting reforms passed by voters. It removes the requirement that the Legislature vote on the commission’s proposals and follow specific redistricting criteria and gets rid of

40 SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

the right of private citizen lawsuits if the Legislature approves maps different than the commission’s recommendations.

The Legislative Redistricting Committee is the other group that’s drawing possible electoral boundary maps, but the group of 20 lawmakers (15 Republicans and five Democrats) is not adhering to the same map-drawing standards as the Utah Independent Redistricting Commission pro by Better Boundaries.

The law outlines some redistricting standards. Like all states, Utah must comply with constitutional equal population requirements—just how equal in population districts have to be seems to vary state to state. In addition to this tenuous legal requirement, the self-imposed principles adopted by the Legislative Redistricting Committee include:

• Districts must be contiguous and reasonably compact.

• State legislative districts and state school board districts must have substantial equality of population among the various districts, with a deviation less than ±5.0%.

• Congressional districts must be as nearly equal as practicable, with a deviation no greater than ±0.1%.

When drawing electoral districts, the independent commission considers population distribution as well as the three Cs: keeping cities and counties and communities of interest intact—these are localized communities that share economic and cultural interests (allowing voters with aligning interests to form an informal coalition). The commission will also not take into consideration political party data or where incumbents live (if a lawmaker gets drawn out of their current district, so be it). The Legislative Redistricting Committee’s criteria does not forbid including incumbent data, which, as Better Boundaries has pointed out, could be considered a conflict of interest. In theory, lawmakers could draw boundaries to make their own seats safer or to punish political opponents.

BETTER BOUNDARIES BELIEVES THAT VOTERS SHOULD BE CHOOSING THEIR POLITICIANS, NOT POLITICIANS CHOOSING THEIR VOTERS.

–KATIE WRIGHT

But, if that does happen, how do you prove it? And even if you can prove it, the only recourse is voters giving a damn and voting that representative out. Which could be made all the more difficult if their district’s boundaries have already been redrawn in that elected official’s favor. In order for any of this to work, it requires people to (again for emphasis) give a damn, get involved and hold their elected officials accountable. “Redistricting is an issue so fundamental to our democracy and how citizens interact with their government,” says Wright. “It is a lot. And it is very confusing, complex and a bit wonky, but redistricting determines with whom you’re united within your representation.”

By the time you’re reading this, it’s likely that the independent commission has already presented its recommended maps to the Legislative Redistricting Committee. After the requisite public hearings, the committee will then choose which maps— from those drawn by the committee, the commission or the public—to recommend to the full Legislature. The legislative committee is set to adopt the final maps by Thanksgiving. Then the maps are approved by the Legislature and go to the Governor for final approval in December. Even though the legislative committee has full discretion here, the independent commission’s maps could still serve a purpose. Voters can inspect how the commission’s recommended maps differ from what the Legislature adopts, providing some level of transparency and, potentially, the opportunity to hold our representatives accountable.

WHEN IS IT GERRYMANDERING?

Gerrymandering is whendistrict boundaries aredrawn to favor one party,which has the effect ofmaking elections lesscompetitive and disenfranchisingother votergroups. It can be almostimpossible to prove whenlines have been intentionallygerrymandered. Whilethere is some debateover whether or not Utahboundaries are gerrymandered,in 2010, the GOPcontrolledLegislaturedrew lines in such a way tobreak up Salt Lake County,the only democraticstronghold, among threecongressional districts.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 | SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM 41

THE HIVE

OUTDOORS

FALL LINE IN FALL

Live it up in the Utah mountains with an early season ski trip

BY

TONY GILL

THERE’S A FAMILIAR GRATING

SOUND ski and snowboard edges make as they cut into early season snow. The surface—typically a mixture of manmade flakes and what’s charitably referred to as “frozen granular”—may not be the Greatest Snow on Earth splashed across the pages of magazines expounding on the virtues of Utah skiing, but there’s an undeniable joy to those first few days on the mountain, when clicking into your bindings feels like the unlikely realization of some distant shoulder season fantasy.

To put it more directly, everyone knows a mediocre day skiing is better than a great day at work. The conditions won’t always be epic, but the early days of the season are a great opportunity to experience a different side of mountain culture. The lift lines are nonexistent, the hotel ski-and-stay deals are radically antithetical to skyrocketing costs, and the pace of everything is just a bit more leisurely. It’s the perfect time for a ski road trip through the Utah mountains that doesn’t involve obsessively researching weather models or selling a prized internal organ. Load up the car and get ready to shred.

PHOTOS COURTESY SNOWBIRD

42 SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

The Aerial Tram at Snowbird

BELOW: Rooftop pool at Snowbird

STOP #1:

SKI BRIGHTON, STAY AT SILVER FORK LODGE

Brighton (8302 S. Brighton Loop Rd., 801-532-4731, brightonresort.com) is the first resort to open in Utah each year, so, naturally, it’s the perfect place to kick off an early season ski trip. While many other mountains play the waiting game ramping up to the lucrative holiday season, Brighton cranks the snow guns to 11 and gets the lifts spinning as soon as possible.

New for this winter, Brighton is offering the Early Pass for maximum shreddage during those early days. For just $249, pass holders get unlimited skiing and riding from opening day—typically the second week of November—through December 23. That’s about the same cost as two individual day tickets, a pretty unbeatable bargain, with the option to upgrade and apply the cost to any other season pass—midweek, night or full.

Spend the night in Big Cottonwood Canyon just down the road from Brighton at Silver Fork Lodge (11332 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd., 801-533-9977, silverforklodge.com). It has a charmingly rustic character, a fantastic restaurant and affordable rates outside of peak season.

PIT STOP 1: HOG WALLOW PUB

It’ll only take about 40 minutes to drive down S.R. 190 and up S.R. 210 to get to the top of adjacent Little Cottonwood Canyon, but it’s worth a quick stop at the Hog Wallow Pub (3200 E. Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd., 801-733-5567, thehogwallow.com) for some smoked wings and a brisket sandwich with a pint to wash it down. The seminal après joint has a great atmosphere and hosts live music most evenings.

STOP #2:

SKI AT SNOWBIRD, STAY AT THE CLIFF LODGE

After scratching the early season itch at Brighton, seek out gnarly turns by day and luxurious digs by night. Snowbird (9385 Snowbird Center Dr., 801-933-2222, snowbird.com) is renowned for its steep terrain and copious snowfall, and it’s frequently home to an earlyseason powder bounty that leaves other resorts envious. The Aerial Tram whisks riders up to 11,000 feet where the temps are cooler and the snowpack is deeper than at lower elevations.

Skip the pre- and post-ski canyon rush with Early Bird Stay and Ski specials, packaging lodging with lift tickets at affordable rates you won’t find during the rest of the season. Each booking includes one lift ticket per adult for each night of the stay and children under 12 ski for free. Myriad accommodation options can be booked online, including the Lodge, The Inn, or my personal favorite, The Cliff (9320 Cliff Lodge Dr., 801- 933-2222). The iconic Cliff Lodge is a mere ski boot’s throw from the Tram and has a pretty delightful spa and pool for some decadent après.

PIT STOP 2: CENTRO WOODFIRED PIZZERIA

Up next is a nearly four-hour drive down I-15 to Brian Head, but head past your turn in Parowan for just a few miles for a bite at Centro Woodfired Pizzeria (50 W. Center St., 844-385-3285, centropizzeria.com) in Cedar City. The pies are in the running for the best in the Beehive State—I’m partial to the Dolce Diavola with whipped ricotta and a honey drizzle—making the extra minutes in the car well worth the effort.

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THE HIVE

OUTDOORS

Brighton

STOP #3:

SKI BRIAN HEAD, STAY AT BEST WESTERN BRIAN HEAD RESORT AND SPA

It seems like just yesterday people were heading towards the desert for shoulder season shenanigans, and now it’s time to point the compass south again in search of snow. Topping out at 10,920 feet, Brian Head (329 UT-143, Brian Head, 435-677-2035, brianhead.com) has high alpine terrain that’s heaven for anxious powder hounds. The resort makes an effort to open before Thanksgiving each year, providing a surreal early-season setting to arc turns down groomers and dive into cold smoke while overlooking the red rock landscape of Cedar Breaks.

New for the winter, the resort is managing the Best Western Premier Brian Head Resort and Spa (314 Hunter Ridge Dr, Brian Head, 435-677-9000, bestwestern.com) just a half mile from the Navajo Lodge base area. It’s the first lodge the resort has overseen and has really easy access to uncrowded slopes. Early season lift ticket specials are available on the Brian Head website. The earlier you buy the better the deal you’ll find, so plan your trip early.

PHOTO MARC PISCOTTY / UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM

44 SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021