Food Magazine November / December 2023

Issue 199

November/December 2023

The gift of

GLUTTONY Homemade foodie gifts to make friends and family squeal with delight

12 HOORAYS OF CHRISTMAS

5 OF THE BEST

STAYCATION GUIDE

The festive events you won't want to miss

Christmas drinks for the party season

Eat, drink, stay and shop in the Cotswolds

FREE

Take me home

Food NovDec 23 Cover.indd 4

Read more at

food-mag.co.uk

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INDULGE IN A

Enjoy a delicious array of sweet and savoury treats with our Festive Afternoon Tea while you celebrate with your friends and family.

Available from 1st November For more information and to book your table, scan the QR code below!

www.themoleresort.co.uk

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FOOD Issue 199 Published October 2023 ISSN 2977-5582 (Print) ISSN 2977-5590 (Online)

food-mag.co.uk foodmagazinesw food_mag foodmagazinesw PUBLISHER Salt Media ideas@saltmedia.co.uk 01271 859299 saltmedia.co.uk

EDITOR Kathryn Lewis EDITORIAL Abi Manning Melissa Morris Kirstie Newton Rosanna Rothery Melissa Stewart Lara Watson Selena Young EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jo Rees ADVERTISING Nick Cooper Claire Fegan Jeni Smith 01271 859182 PUBLISHING Charlotte Cummins Tamsin Powell

Hi

It's hard to write about Christmas without defaulting to clichés and whimsical turns of phrase, but this is an enchanting time of year.

The Christmas season is an opportunity to remove oneself from the hamster wheel of life, spend quality time with friends and family, and indulge in all the delicious foods and drinks that can be scoffed and imbibed without judgement for a few short weeks each year. For me, this opportunity to reflect, reconnect and relax is the true magic of Christmas.

To get you in the spirit, Selena has shared 12 festive events, workshops and suppers that are taking place in the South West this season (page 14), while Abi has handpicked five of the best Christmas tipples to keep the drinks cabinet topped up with all things warming and spiced (page 36).

December can be a drain on the bank balance, so if you're looking to save a bit of cash while Christmas shopping may we suggest rustling up some delicious homemade gifts this year? We asked some indie producers to share their favourite recipes for edible gifts (page 8) – perfect for those hard-to-buyfor friends and family members who don't really need anything.

Beyond this issue, change is afoot at Food.. This will be my last edition as editor as I embark on a new adventure in the Southern Hemisphere. However, I'll be passing the editorship back into the safe hands of Jo, who founded the magazine 20 years ago.

Jo and the team will continue to share all of the latest from the South West food, drink and hospitality scene. The only change will be that we'll be going quarterly in 2024 – starting with the 200th edition of the magazine which will hit the streets at the end of December.

Bye for now!

Kathryn Lewis Follow us on foodmagazinesw

ACCOUNTS Richard Bailey PHOTOGRAPHY Matt Austin, Brett Charles, Sam Harris, Ed Schofield COVER Matt Austin for Darts Farm

THANKS Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports the South West's food and hospitality industry.

COPYRIGHT The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission.

DISCLAIMER While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication.

The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

PRINT We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent-free inks on FSC®-certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice.

12 hoorays of Christmas (page 14)

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Est. 1992

Give a Tasteful Gift If you are looking for a unique Christmas gift for the food lover in your life, give them a cookery experience that they will remember with an Ashburton Cookery School gift voucher. Gift vouchers start at £89 and can be delivered by email or as a gift card to yourself or direct to your recipient.

Our award-winning courses are taught by inspirational chef tutors using the best seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Master a particular skill such as Pasta Making, Fish Filleting or Sauces, or learn to cook a favourite cuisine at home such as Mexican, Indian or Thai. With over 40 cookery courses to choose from you can be sure they’ll find a cookery course to suit their taste.

Ashburton Cookery School Old Exeter Road · Ashburton · Devon · TQ13 7LG · Tel: 01364 652784

www.AshburtonCookerySchool.co.uk Food NovDec 23 S1.indd 4

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November & December 6 EAT AND DRINK LIKE A LOCAL The Food team's festive pick of South West products.

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8 The gift of gluttony Homemade foodie gift ideas for hard-to-buy-for friends and family.

14 12 HOORAYS OF CHRISTMAS Festive events, workshops and suppers taking place across the region.

22 STAYCATION GUIDE

14

Where to eat, drink, stay and shop in the Cotswolds.

28 REVIEWS Eating out across the South West.

38 WEEKEND COOKING Seasonal recipes from pro chefs and producers.

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52 WIN Prizes from local indies, including a Christmas meat hamper, barbecue spice box and dinner overlooking St Michael's Mount.

58 LAST BITE Sacred Grounds' head chef reveals his go-to vegan sushi find in Exeter.

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Eat and drink like a local The Food team share their seasonal picks from South West producers

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Trencherman's Guide 31st edition

‘In-the-know foodies use the Trencherman's Guide as their trusty handbook to discovering the most exquisite places to eat in the South West,’ says features writer and Trencherman's Guide editor Abi. ‘The recently launched 31st edition is packed with over 100 gorgeous restaurants and contains a more diverse range of dining experiences than ever – from formal restaurants to family-friendly beach bars, slick city venues and quality dining pubs. It also includes 25 new additions to add to your must-visit list.

‘The stocking-size book makes a cracking Christmas gift for a foodie friend – and Food readers can bag a second copy for themselves at half price by using code CHRISTMAS23 at the checkout.’ £9.99

1

Grass-fed rib of beef, The Dorset Meat Company

trenchermans-guide.co.uk

‘Turkey might be the OG of Christmas Day centrepieces, but for those who favour flavour it's hard to beat a towering rib of beef,’ says editorial director Jo.

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Date and Cinnamon Spice Blend, Cut to the Smoke, Hampshire

‘Planning on whipping out a showstopping ham for the Boxing Day spread? Take your seasoning up a notch with Cut to the Smoke's date and cinnamon spice mix,’ says features writer Selena.

‘This impressive specimen from The Dorset Meat Company is guaranteed to elicit a chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from guests at the table. The online butcher sources ethical grass-fed native-breed beef from small family-run farms in Dorset and Wiltshire, then dry ages the meat on the bone for maximum flavour. Order it direct to your door in time for the big day.’

‘Festive flavours of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg combine with the smoky notes of hickory salt and the tang of mustard in this fragrant spice blend. Cut to the Smoke founder Nigel Webster recommends simmering a gammon joint in stock and cider before smothering it with the date and cinnamon mix and roasting in the oven. Head to food-mag.co.uk for the full recipe.’

From £63.95 thedorsetmeatcompany.co.uk

£7 for 125g

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Espresso Martini Shake Coffee Stout, Wiper and True, Bristol

cuttothesmoke.co.uk

‘The Espresso Martini continues its reign as the go-to upper of Christmas party season,’ says editor Kathryn.

‘The team at Wiper and True in Bristol set out to capture the essence of the relentlessly popular cocktail and synthesise it with the malty decadence of their beloved Milk Shake Milk Stout.

The result is an indulgent beer delivering all the characteristics the Espresso Martini is loved for (chocolate, vanilla and booze) but with a restrained ABV (5.6%) and a classic coffee stout undercurrent.’ £21 for 6 × 440ml cans wiperandtrue.com

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Lloyd & James Chocolate, Torquay

‘I'm always keen to support South West chocolatiers and the latest one to come to my attention is Devon's Lloyd & James Chocolate,’ says features editor Rosanna.

‘This isn't just another reseller of mass-produced chocs repacked in branded boxes: Fairtrade chocolate is tempered on-site and crafted into bars and truffles. Fillings for the latter include locally sourced (whenever possible) fresh cream, liqueurs and natural flavourings. Look out for seasonal truffles such as Christmas pudding with raisins, orange peel, brandy and spices.’ £11.95 for a box of 12 truffles lloydandjameschocolate.co.uk

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The gift of

GLUTTONY Forget vouchers and frivolous gifts that will inevitably end up in landfill. This Christmas, give foodie friends and family something they'll truly enjoy by rustling up one of these edible gifts from South West producers

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Exploding Bakery founders Tom and Oliver

Exploding Bakery's The Nutcracker cake Makes 1 tray 22cm × 33cm × 5cm baking tray For the cake: Free‑range eggs 6 medium Caster sugar 125g Light brown soft sugar 125g Vanilla extract 1 tsp Somerset cider brandy 50ml (optional) Dark chocolate 300g, broken into pieces Butter 100g Whole hazelnuts 250g Walnut pieces 250g Ground almonds 100g Ground cinnamon 2 tsp Candied orange peel 50g, finely chopped Salt ½ tsp To finish: Icing sugar 15g

1 For the cake: preheat the oven to 150°C / gas 3.5. Line the baking tray with parchment.

2 Crack the eggs into a stand mixer or large mixing bowl and beat until foamy.

Add both sugars a little at a time, beating between each addition, followed by the vanilla and the cider brandy (if you fancy it).

3 Melt the chocolate and butter in a bain‑marie. Once melted, slowly stir into the egg mixture until smooth and glossy.

4 Put the hazelnuts and walnuts in a food processor and whizz on and off until the nuts have a gravelly texture. If you don't have a food processor, wrap the nuts in a tea towel and bash with a rolling pin.

‘This cake can be packaged up as a gift, or served warm with a dollop of mascarpone for a nod to its Italian heritage’

5 Transfer the broken nuts into a mixing bowl and add the ground almonds, cinnamon, candied orange and salt. Mix, then pour the chocolate mixture into the nut mixture and stir through so everything is combined.

6 Pour the mixture into the lined tray and bake for 30 minutes. You'll know it's ready when a knife inserted into the centre comes out clean. If the cake is browning too quickly, reduce the temperature slightly or cover with foil.

Leave to cool in the baking tray.

7 To finish: once the cake is cool, remove from the tray and dust generously with icing sugar. The cake will keep for 2 weeks when stored in an airtight container in the fridge.

Recipe from Bake It. Slice It. Eat It. by Oliver Coysh and Tom Oxford explodingbakery.com

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The Real Cure's chorizo jam Makes 2 × 450g jars Dorset Chorizo Picante 450g, cut into pieces White onion 1 large, peeled and finely sliced Garlic 2 cloves, peeled and crushed Muscovado sugar 80g Red wine vinegar 3 tbsp Maple syrup 2 tbsp Espresso 1 shot (optional)

1 In a large pan, fry the chorizo for 5 minutes until golden and crisp around the edges. Remove the chorizo from the pan, leaving the oil, and set aside.

2 Add the onion to the pan with the chorizo oil and gently cook for 15 minutes until soft. Stir in the garlic, sugar, vinegar, maple syrup, espresso (if using) and the cooked chorizo. Allow the mixture to simmer gently for 40 minutes until syrupy.

3 Remove the pan from the heat and leave the mixture to cool. Transfer into a food processor and pulse to the desired consistency. Leave to cool before transferring into 2 sterilised jars. The chorizo jam will keep for up to 1 month when stored in the fridge. therealcure.co.uk

‘Hot, sweet and spicy, this Dorset chorizo jam is a fantastic accompaniment to cheese and crackers’

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Cornish Sea Salt's Christmas biscotti Makes 8 biscotti

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C / gas 3. Line a large baking tray with baking parchment.

Free‑range eggs 2

2 Using an electric whisk, mix the eggs and sugar until light and fluffy. In another bowl, combine the flour, bicarbonate of soda, orange zest, hazelnuts, chocolate chips and salt flakes.

Caster sugar 100g Plain flour 250g Bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp Orange 1, zest Blanched hazelnuts 50g, chopped Dark chocolate chips 50g Cornish Sea Salt Flakes 50g To decorate: Dark chocolate melted Blanched hazelnuts chopped Cornish Sea Salt Flakes

3 Gently tip the dry ingredients into the egg mix and fold into a dough. Place the dough on a floured surface and shape into a long sausage approximately 3cm thick.

4 Put the dough on the lined baking tray and bake in the oven for 30 minutes, then remove and slice. Put the slices on the tray flat-side up and return to the oven for a further 15 minutes.

5 To decorate: once cooled, dip the biscotti into the melted chocolate and sprinkle with chopped hazelnuts and sea salt flakes. cornishseasalt.co.uk

‘Pearlescent sea salt flakes add pops of flavour to these festive biscotti’

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Extract Coffee Roasters' Espresso Martini syrup Makes 1 × 600ml bottle Dark brown sugar 60g Extract coffee beans 80g, finely ground Quality vodka 200ml

1 In a saucepan, combine the sugar with 560ml of water. Put the lid on the saucepan and bring the water to the boil over a medium heat.

2 Once boiling, remove the pan from the stove and add the ground coffee, whisking to remove any lumps.

3 Allow the coffee to brew for 1 minute, then strain through a paper filter or muslin to remove the coffee grounds.

4 Transfer the liquid to a sterilised bottle and allow to cool. Once at room temperature, add the vodka, mix and seal.

‘The syrup will keep for around two days in a sealed bottle in the fridge’

5 To create an Espresso Martini, simply shake 120ml of the syrup with ice and strain into a Martini glass. extractcoffee.co.uk

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Cow & Cacao's dark chocolate truffles Makes 30

1 For the ganache: line a 20cm square tin with baking parchment.

2 Gently melt the dark chocolate, either in the microwave or a bain‑marie.

For the chocolate ganache: Darts Farm single‑origin dark chocolate 300g, broken into pieces Whipping cream 150ml Glucose syrup or honey 50g To finish: Dark chocolate 500g Cocoa powder 25g

3 Put the cream and glucose or honey in a small heavy‑based saucepan and gently heat until almost boiling, then remove from the heat.

4 Stir ⅓ of the cream mixture into the melted chocolate. As it starts to thicken, stir in another ⅓ of cream and then the final ⅓ until fully incorporated, smooth and shiny.

5 Pour the ganache into the lined tray and spread evenly. Leave in a cool, dry place to set overnight.

6 Remove the ganache from the tray and cut into equal‑size squares. If the ganache is too sticky, place it in the freezer for no longer than 10 minutes.

7 To finish: using the seeding method, temper the dark chocolate. Place the cocoa powder in a shallow bowl.

8 Dip the ganache squares in the tempered chocolate and then roll in the cocoa powder. Once all the squares have been dipped, remove any excess cocoa powder by placing them in a sieve and tapping gently. dartsfarm.co.uk

‘Store the truffles in an airtight container and they'll keep for up to three weeks’

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12

hoorays of

Christmas

From artisan fairs and crafting workshops to baking sessions and supper clubs, these festive experiences and events across the South West are guaranteed to get you in the Christmas spirit

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Pottery & Prosecco

Foodie festivities on the farm Winter promises another packed itinerary of events at Nancarrow Farm near Truro.

Its Winter Feast on November 17 is a chance to sup on organic homegrown food and meet friends – old and new – around communal tables in the farm's rustic oak barn. It kicks off with a welcome drink and nibbles, before the chefs deliver a three-course wood-fired supper featuring own-reared beef or lamb and seasonal produce plucked from the kitchen garden.

When it's dark and damp outside, The Pot Project's BYOB Pottery & Prosecco evenings become even more appealing. Shelter from the elements at the Bristol studio with good friends and a bottle of your favourite fizz, and let the bubbles and feelgood vibes influence your creative masterpieces.

Book into one of the winter workshops taking place on November 10 and 24, and December 8 and 22. Celebrating? Let the team know so they can make the experience extra special.

Tickets £35. thepotprojectbristol.com

Fancy a more intimate dinner with friends or family, but with the same quality food and buzzy atmosphere?

On November 18 the Nancarrow team will host a Farm Supper of the same exceptional fare, served at individual tables.

Winter Feasts and Farm Supper tickets £50. nancarrowfarm.co.uk

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All I want for Christmas is my two front wreaths There are a wealth of wreath-making workshops taking place across the South West this winter, but we're particularly tempted to join the green-fingered fiends at Hotel Endsleigh on the fringes of Dartmoor.

Upon arrival at the elegant Grade I-listed hotel, guests will be guided to the stables for a cuppa before the crafting begins. The experience includes a two-course lunch in the Trencherman's-rated restaurant and a glass of wine.

On November 24, 25 and 26 floral designer Nadine Gibbon will host the sessions, while on December 5, 6 and 7 wedding florist and the hotel's resident greenery guru Simon Nickell will lead the class.

Tickets £90. hotelendsleigh.co.uk

Take it sloe Head to the wilds of Dartmoor to spend a wholesome afternoon learning the dark arts of cider and sloe-gin making on the Bovey Castle estate.

The experience takes place in the Long Barn nestled in the hotel's vast gardens, and will be lit by flickering candlelight and a roaring log burner.

It's an atmospheric setting in which to press apples and infuse spirits with seasonal fruits. Naturally, there'll be lots of opportunities to sample flavoured elixirs and traditionally crafted cider while gleaning inspiration for your own creations.

Workshops on November 18 and December 9. Tickets £30. boveycastle.com

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Sugar, spice and all things nice Roll up the sleeves on your Fair Isle knit, tie up your apron and get stuck into some festive baking at Riverford Field Kitchen in Buckfastleigh.

On November 20 and 21 the farm kitchen will host a Christmas Baking Workshop, at which Riverford's guest chef Andy Tyrrell will teach attendees how to craft orange and cranberry brioche, traditional stollen and festive focaccia. Open to beginners and experienced bakers alike, the day will be peppered with breadmaking tips and techniques to elevate your baking skills.

Halfway through the workshop, Andy will throw a sourdough flatbread baking demo into the mix – the flatbread forming the base of a freshly cooked lunch for attendees.

Tickets £150. fieldkitchen.riverford.co.uk

Festive ferments Those keen to introduce funky ferments to their Christmas “picky tea” spread will want to book a spot on Get Pickled's festive fermentation class at Lo Rapitenc in Frome on November 22.

Basic fermentation techniques will be taught before the hands-on session begins. The ferments line-up will include a gut-boosting Christmas kraut and a sugar-macerated seasonal syrup, both of which would make cracking gifts if you can bear to part with them.

Tip: listen out for the pop and hiss of jars throughout the class – that means samples are on the way.

Tickets £50. lorapitencspanishfood.com

Shopping in a snow globe What cooler setting could there be for a Christmas market than Eden Project's illuminated biomes?

On November 22-23, visitors to the botanical habitat in Bodelva can explore a glittering Christmas market of 60 stalls from Cornwall's indies. There'll also be the chance to chomp their way through doughy delights from the bakery food hall.

Evening tickets on November 22 cost £32 and include access to the market, a welcome drink and supper, while daytime tickets on November 23 cost £18 and include access to the market, lunch and a glass of wine. edenproject.com

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Serve up a sparkling selection of drinks this festive season

Choose your favorites from our extensive range of over 20 juices and juice drinks.

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New feasting find Like a moth to a flame, it's hard to resist the pull of a delicious supper served in a rustic setting, and Pennard Hill Farm's new feasting barn is a bright beacon for Somerset's gastronomically inclined.

The family-run farm, located on the fringes of Glastonbury, has operated as a luxury selfcatering holiday destination and wedding venue for years, but the introduction of a feasting barn has now made it a must-visit destination for discerning foodies.

Following a successful launch supper in October, three more events will take place on November 11 and December 2 and 9. Book your spot sharpish to guarantee a seat at the table and the chance to indulge in flame-cooked dishes of own-grown ingredients from chef Tom Godber-Ford Moore.

Tickets £50. pennardhillfarm.co.uk

Walk (and eat) in a winter wonderland Take a walk on the wild side this winter at Studland Bay, where Fore Adventure will host a festive foraging and feasting experience on December 2. The outdoor activity company is inviting foodies to join them in an enchanting seaside setting for a seasonal three-course dining experience, crafted using ingredients from nature's larder.

Top of the table Recreating the incredible flower-filled table settings displayed on Pinterest and Instagram takes more prep and skill than you might think. If you want to go all out for your next dinner party or Christmas Day itself, don't miss Daylesford Farm's styling workshop in Gloucestershire on November 30.

Attendees will be led on a guided tour of the organic garden, where they'll pick flowers and natural materials to use in the class. Floral designer Hazel Gardiner will then teach workshoppers how to make their own table runner and the best way to create a textural table space using carefully chosen homeware pieces, and by layering table linen, ceramics and florals.

Tickets £200. daylesford.com

The gourmet adventure includes a welcome ‘wild’ cocktail, foraging walk through the pretty Dorset landscape, outdoor cooking demo, cosy campfire and wine with the meal.

Tickets £90. foreadventure.co.uk 19 / 1 2 HO OR AYS OF C HR IST M A S

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e for Order onlin cal r lo collection o deliver ies

P E N N A R D H I L L FA R M WINTER FEASTS

Organic veggies, salads and herbs (many homegrown), plus local fish, meat, eggs, bread and groceries are all available from our Northam store.

Expect a celebration of wild food, regenerative farming and some of the most delicious produce Somerset has to offer

www.marshford.co.uk 01237 477160

STICKLEBALL LANE, EAST PENNARD, SOMERSET BA4 6UG

07795 806858 | PENNARDHILLFARM.CO.UK

Churchill Way, Northam, North Devon EX39 1NS

One for you…

Needs to be … and one for me in festive activities feature Looking for the perfect gift for a foodie friend? Get them a copy of the South West's original dining guide.

The best bit? You can pop a copy in your own stocking for half price.

TBC

TBC

Buy one and get one half price using code CHRISTMAS23 at the checkout T&Cs: CHRISTMAS23 code valid on trenchermans-guide.co.uk until December 17, 2023

Scan to order

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'tis the season for Padstow Christmas Festival A highlight of the South West culinary calendar, this celebrated Cornish festival returns to the coastal town from December 7-10.

Padstow Christmas Festival will bustle with stalls filled with artisan food, drink and handcrafted wares, as well as a chef's theatre where a bill of 70 chefs (including Rick Stein and Paul Ainsworth) will take turns demo-ing their favourite dishes.

There'll also be live entertainment and plenty of opportunities to indulge in delish street food.

Festival entry is free. Sharp's Chefs Theatre tickets from £7. padstowchristmasfestival.co.uk

Keep it under wraps Make your presents extra personal this Christmas by wrapping them in paper illustrated with your own artwork.

The Lost Kitchen in Chettiscombe, Devon, will host a lino-printing card and wrapping paper workshop on December 6, where attendees can design and carve their own festive-themed lino stamps before printing them on cards and wrapping paper using vibrant inks.

Arrive early (booking a table in advance is a must) to dig into delicious wood-fired cooking from head chef Jason Mead before the workshop begins.

Tickets £45. lostkitchen.co.uk

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Staycation guide

Cotswolds Not just a bucolic playground for the London elite, the Cotswolds offers a rural idyll of captivating walks through vast countryside, cosy pubs with roaring fires, and rooted‑in‑the‑soil dining experiences that don't cost the earth. Kathryn Lewis reveals where to eat, drink, shop and stay

The Rectory Bittescombe Lodge & Deer Park

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The Rectory

Rewild Things

Wild Thyme & Honey

Where to

stay

Covering six counties and 787 square miles, the Cotswolds hosts a diverse range of staycation options – spanning from transcendent indulgence to rustic charm. Maxing out at the luxury end of the scale is Thyme in Southrop, Gloucestershire. Owner Caryn Hibbert describes the cluster of restored farmhouses, cottages, barns and a former rectory as ‘a village within a village’, which is a fitting description because there's really no need to explore beyond its peaceful English gardens.

Enclosed within the Thyme estate are two restaurants, a dining pub, a spa with outdoor pool, a gallery and a cookery school. And, as if that wasn't enough to keep guests entertained, the amenities are supplemented by a busy schedule of workshops such as floristry classes and guest‑maker craft events.

Along the same ultra‑luxe‑village‑life lines is The Rectory at Crudwell in Wiltshire. With just 15 bedrooms and a three‑bedroom cottage in the grounds, the Grade II‑listed honey‑coloured‑stone hotel has an exclusive feel. It's particularly popular with the gastronomically inclined who stay the night to dine at its restaurant, which in 2022 was passed into the safe hands of award‑winning chef Rob Weston – who brought with him his skilled team from Michelin‑starred La Trompette in Chiswick. Those who can't secure a booking in the restaurant should pop over the road to sister pub The Potting Shed, also overseen by Rob.

The Fish in Broadway, close to the Gloucestershire/Worcestershire border, hosts a clutch of contemporary rooms in its converted coach houses and stables, yet the hotel and retreat's real draw is its suites hidden within the woodland canopy. The Fish's three treehouses are ideal for families, but are also equally attractive to couples who want to relive their childhood fantasies of sleeping in the forest – albeit in sumptuous surrounds.

The Cotswolds is synonymous with country inns and many offer a bed for the night above their rustic bars.

In the Oxfordshire wing of the region, Double Red Duke ticks all the boxes for a fabulous break. Diverging from the archetypal country‑chic aesthetic, owners Sam and Georgie Pearman have dressed the 17th‑century coaching inn in bold colours, quirky wallpapers and bright fabrics to create a one‑of‑a‑kind destination in which to meet, eat and sleep. In Ampney Crucis near Cirencester is Wild Thyme & Honey, another beautifully renovated boutique inn. Its 24 bedrooms are styled to reflect the Cotswolds setting while also taking inspiration from the open‑plan industrial style of Manhattan's loft apartments.

Finally, adventurous folk looking to fully immerse themselves in the Cotswolds' rural magique should book a treehouse at Rewild Things in Gloucestershire.

Set in branches above a section of the Elmore Court Estate that's been returned to nature as part of a huge rewilding project, the elevated wooden pods are fantastic hideaways in which to disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with nature via activities such as wild swimming and foraging.

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FESTIVE DINING AND BREAKS AT ST MICHAELS

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Roots + Seeds Kitchen Garden

The Kingham Plough

Bybrook

Where to

eat

Dining pubs are the beating heart of the Cotswolds food scene, so wherever visitors wander they're never far from a proper pint of ale and a hearty meal scoffed from a weathered wooden table.

The Kingham Plough at Chipping Norton has a long‑standing reputation for fantastic food, which owners Matt and Katie Beamish have upheld since taking over from chef Emily Watkins in 2019. Local produce such as Smokin' Brothers salmon, Wye Valley asparagus and Cotswolds venison guide the seasonal menus of creative and classic pub dishes. Start with nibbles like crispy rarebit bites with smoked bacon jam before moving on to comforting mains such as crab linguine with confit tomatoes, parmesan and pangritata.

In 2017, born and bred Cotswolds boys Tom Noest and Peter Creed took over The Bell Inn at Langford, breathing new life into the much‑loved local. Their M.O. was to do simple things well and craft the kind of food they love to eat. The result is a charmingly casual country inn serving rustic dishes such as devilled kidneys on toast, Hereford rib‑eye steak and wood‑roasted hake with borlotti beans and roasted tomatoes.

The Cotswolds isn't all about pub dining, however. In the centre of Cirencester Park foodies will find Roots + Seeds Kitchen Garden, a contemporary cafe and restaurant crafting dishes from ingredients sourced from within 25 miles of the site. The project from the team behind The Scenic Supper pop‑up opened in spring 2023 and has already won a flurry of fans for its seasonal brunch, lunch and dinner menus.

Nearby in Foss Cross, on first impressions The Stump might look like another trad country pub but this isn't your usual watering hole. Inside, the team craft seriously good wood‑fired pizzas and European‑style small plates like anchovy and bone marrow flatbread, and prosciutto with watermelon and almonds.

The region is also home to a few Michelin‑starred establishments. Visit The Dining Room at Whatley Manor in Malmesbury and Bybrook at The Manor House in Castle Combe for polished tasting menus served in grand settings.

For an altogether different take on pub dining, seek out The Woolpack Inn in the Slad Valley where former Ubiquitous Chip chef Adam Glover gives centre stage to often overlooked ingredients. Order a smattering of plates for the table and graze on the likes of mutton chops with lentils and anchovies, and onglet with horseradish and pickled walnut.

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New England Coffee House

Where to

shop While crowds might flock to one outspoken former Top Gear presenter's farm shop in Chipping Norton, there are plenty of alternatives for those who don't want to line Clarkson's pockets.

Daylesford Organic in Gloucestershire is the Cotswolds' original destination farm shop. Located on a working farm, the shop is filled with Daylesford's own ethically grown and reared produce as well as items from other local artisans with a similar sustainable ethos. Stick around to eat too, either at Michelin Green Star‑awarded The Trough cafe or The Old Spot restaurant.

Another popular place to pick up delicious things and stop for a bite to eat is Jolly Nice Farm Shop in Frampton Mansell near Stroud. Its butchery specialises in rare‑breed meats, with much of the produce on the counter sourced from Jolly Nice's own fields.

Where to

drink Speciality coffee can be hard to come by in rural locations (we recommend taking an Indy Coffee Guide on your travels), but in Stow‑on‑the‑Wold visitors have a few quality establishments to choose from. On Sheep Street, coffee fans can watch and smell the roasting magic happen at tiny espresso bar and micro‑roastery Stow Town Coffee, while on Digbeth Street they'll find the utterly charming New England Coffee House where new‑wave coffee is served in a classic Cotswolds setting.

On the outskirts of Nailsworth, wine buffs will want to drop into Vinotopia. Launched in summer 2023, the expansive wine barn is brimming with bottles to sample and take home. As well as wines from across the world, Vinotopia also stocks spirits, craft beers and products from local producers such as cheese, charcuterie and nibbles.

And for an expanded selection of fromage‑based delights, check out The Cotswold Cheese Co's trio of shops in Burford, Moreton‑in‑Marsh and Stow‑on‑the‑Wold.

Also in the artisan market town is The Cellar, a contemporary neighbourhood wine bar serving and selling organic, natural and biodynamic drops. A concise menu of European small plates, such as ortiz anchovies, duck rillettes and leeks vinaigrette, fortifies the intriguing wine list.

The Cotswolds is home to a small fleet of breweries, creating everything from real ale to experimental crafts. In 2014, landlords Jim and Claire Alexander launched Yubberton Brewing Co. so they could make their own range of organic ales and bitters for their duo of country pubs: The Killingworth Castle near Blenheim Palace and The Ebrington Arms near Chipping Camden. Both are lovely spots in which to sink a refreshing Goldie pale ale.

And in Somerford Keynes, on Friday evenings the team at Cotswold Lake Brew Co fling open their taproom doors and invite the public in to sample the beers. Check the brewery's social and website for info on upcoming events such as live acoustic music and party nights.

Vinotopia

Daylesford Organic

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REVIEWS

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Brazz Jo Rees heads to Taunton for a slap-up dinner in the casual surrounds of the town's grandest hotel The Castle Hotel, Castle Green, Taunton, Somerset, TA1 1NF

WHAT'S THE DRAW? Quality restaurant cooking in a relaxed and contemporary setting.

Change is afoot in the restaurant world as smart spots whip white linen off their tables and mothball formal service in favour of a more laid-back experience, so it turns out The Castle at Taunton has been ahead of the curve all along.

When the team first launched Brazz in 1998, it was to provide residents with a more casual alternative to its feted Castle Bow Restaurant, while also giving locals a reliable brasserie for lunch or supper. Then, in 2019, the team read the culinary runes and made Brazz the hotel's main restaurant, turning Castle Bow into an elegant setting for private dining.

Nowadays, those looking to share a few small plates at lunchtime, or even a pizza, rub shoulders with couples indulging in celebratory feasts as they sit on Brazz's leather and velvet banquettes. The vibe is buzzy, the lighting low and the hum and clink from the bar entirely in keeping with the culinary zeitgeist.

WHAT TO ORDER? The menu is large and varied with plenty of specials, so it's possible to dine on what would traditionally be considered fine-dining fare, or to feed an appetite for a gourmet burger stuffed with streaky bacon, bacon jam and Twanger cheddar.

On the smart end of the spectrum are dishes such as roasted lamb rump served with a breaded square of unctuously fatty lamb shoulder on a bed of borlotti beans and tarragon. On our visit, in-season local venison was also on the menu, soft as butter and accompanied by the Middle Eastern flavours of labneh and apricot.

The puds were especially good and we devoured a reinvented chocolate Wagon Wheel with a squeakily clean raspberry sorbet and nibbed hazelnuts. We also enjoyed a blackcurrant pannacotta (served with crisp sesame tuille) that offered up the last strains of summer in the herbaceous notes of its blackcurrant sorbet sidekick.

WHO'S COOKING? Andrew Swann is The Castle's head chef and oversees all of the hotel's food offerings.

Returning to the kitchen in which he started his career, after working in London at the likes of The Savoy and L'Escargot, has turned out pretty well: this year he bagged Best Chef at the Trencherman's Awards.

FOOD'S TIP Alongside the à la carte menu, Brazz also offers a good value set-menu at £30 for two courses and £35 for three.

Oh, and order the bread to nibble as you sip your aperitif: the slices of bouncy sourdough served with a collection of homemade butters (including flavours such as café de Paris and roast chicken skin) are delicious. the-castle-hotel.com

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The Idle Rocks Set sail for a stirring culinary voyage at St Mawes' iconic waterfront hotel, suggests Selena Young St Mawes, Cornwall, TR2 5AN

WHAT'S THE DRAW? A stylish coastal setting that invigorates the spirit, warm hospitality that makes guests feel at ease and first-rate dining that never disappoints: The Idle Rocks feeds the soul in a way all hotels should but only the finest do.

Hugging the harbourside in scenic St Mawes, the Relais & Châteaux hotel blesses visitors with captivating views of boats gliding across the water and the therapeutic sound of waves washing over the rocks on which it stands.

Sensory pleasures aren't just reserved for the outdoors, however. Its distinctive interior design also entertains the eye, with a cascade of bright and playful fabrics sweeping the rooms and vibrant artwork dotting the walls. The chic lounge is just the spot for lazing with the papers and a morning coffee, or luxuriating with a glass of Lazy Lady (The Idle Rocks' own wine from Padstow) and appetisers as the day draws in.

It's worth putting aside an hour or two to soak up the scenery from the sea-view rooms, whether that's bathing in a standalone tub or lounging on the faux-fur-draped windowseat.

WHO'S COOKING? Matthew Haggath is the latest in a long line of talented head chefs to step up to the pass of The Idle Rocks kitchen.

Under his lead, the restaurant recently gained three AA rosettes and continues to secure Higher Membership in the Trencherman's Guide. Much like the hotel's aesthetic, Matthew's cooking is considered and exquisite.

WHAT TO ORDER? On the signature tasting menu, the chef takes guests on a culinary voyage across the county via a sequence of dishes celebrating Cornish farmers, fishermen and producers.

Warm pretzel rolls paired with a mushroom and truffle butter coaxed us into our evening dining experience, the springy bread providing a perfect landing pad for generous layers of the light-butluxe whipped butter.

After an amuse bouche of supple blushing-pink duck, we found citrusy refreshment in our first fish course of the evening: a svelte fillet of Boscastle trout with pickled tomato, cucumber relish and lemon gel.

A second fish dish of pan-seared sea bass yielded silky flesh under its crisp pearlescent skin. The beautifully cooked fish was paired with Provençal new potatoes, piquillo pepper puree and a herbaceous basil chimichurri.

One of our favourite junctures of the tasting journey was a juicy cut of braised pork belly, married with sweet apple gel, lightly spiced fennel puree and Tenderstem broccoli.

A duo of desserts demonstrated two extremes of the sweetness scale. The raspberry fool was zappingly sharp while a decadent chocolate bavarois left us swooning.

Rounding off the meal were petits fours of tongue-twistingly zesty lemon macarons and hand-painted chocolate truffles.

FOOD'S TIP Follow supper with a film at The Hidden Cinema, located at The Idle Rocks' nearby sister venue St Mawes Hotel. idlerocks.com

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Flute Bath's latest opening promises on-point all-day dining for the piscatorially inclined, discovers Kathryn Lewis 9 Edgar Buildings, George Street, Bath, BA1 2EE

WHAT TO ORDER? WHAT'S THE DRAW? The opportunity to transport oneself from the centre of the bustling city to the Cornish coastline, where time is irrelevant, the vibe relaxed and the fish impeccably fresh.

Launched at the end of October in a bright and light spot on George Street, Flute is the latest creation from restaurateur Roger Payne. Inspired by his dreamlike days spent in Cornwall feasting on seafood and fine wines, the cafe-restaurant has been designed to encourage visitors to enter a holiday-like state of relaxation.

A collaboration with fish merchants Wing of St Mawes ensures the all-day menus swim with the latest catch, plucked from Cornish waters in the morning and whizzed (on ice) to Bath in time for lunch. There's even a desserttrolley-style seafood carriage, which is wheeled to the table to show off the fishermen's most prized treasures.

The restaurant's name – which references the Champagne glass not the musical instrument – alludes to a carefully considered wine list which majors on all things sparkling, with English wines given special prominence.

WHO'S COOKING? Roger has appointed Kasae Fraser and Alex Smith as head chefs, both of them having demonstrated their skills at venues owned by Roger.

Our visit took place during a press preview ahead of the official opening, so we were given a taster of the lengthy menu, which runs from breakfast plates to elevated dishes and late-night snacks.

Naturally, we began with breakfast. A light and crunchy semolina waffle was slathered in dill-laced cream cheese, piled with lustrous smoked salmon and finished with a peppery hit of watercress. It's a decadent way to start the day that could only be improved by the addition of a glass of crisp Champagne.

Next, we got up close and personal with a tankard of giant prawns. A nod to the British seaside classic, Flute's version comes with a spiced Bloody Mary mayo and a wedge of charred lettuce.

Of the other dishes sampled (too many to count), the standout course was the brined hake. The beautiful fillet of fish rested on a bed of samphire and was topped with ribbons of tangy pickled cucumber. The pièce de résistance, however, was its accompanying hot and sour broth, flavoured with chilli, garlic, lime, chicken wings and fresh herbs, and showered over the hake from a cafetiere (pictured).

FOOD'S TIP Bubbles may be the focus of Flute's drinks list, but its cocktails are also worth exploring.

Wow-factor is the watchword here, so expect anything and everything beyond the usual suspects. flute-bath.com

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The Wig & Pen Abi Manning gives her verdict on this Truro dining pub, which has served patrons of the local courthouse for over two centuries 1 Frances Street, Truro, Cornwall, TR1 3DP

WHAT'S THE DRAW? Located in the heart of Cornwall's capital, Grade II-listed The Wig & Pen has supplied nourishment and a warm welcome to a clientele of Truro locals and those from the nearby courthouse for over 200 years.

Lara and Tom Trubshaw (who also run The Peterville Inn in St Agnes) took over the pub in March 2022 after it had been shut for nearly a year. The pair have lovingly refurbished it, treating the interiors to a smart upgrade with tones of green and brass to complement the original stonework. The menu has been given an equally impressive boost thanks to the culinary wizardry of head chef Scott Williams.

WHO'S COOKING? Scott's CV lists a raft of respected South West establishments such as WestBeach in Bournemouth, The King's Arms in Christchurch, Mannings in Truro (which achieved two AA rosettes under his leadership) and his own venue in the city, Gravy Boesti.

His M.O. is modern Cornish cuisine: seasonal and sustainable – with a few playful twists.

WHAT TO ORDER? Table nibbles provide a palate-teasing opener: choose from the likes of house breads, kedgeree scotch egg with piccalilli, and tempura autumn veg with sesame and soy dip.

A smattering of dishes from the small plates section of the menu can make for a feast with friends, or opt for one as a starter. Melt-inthe-mouth seared Fowey scallops were paired with caramelised squash puree, cured pork, toasted seaweed and fondant and crispy leeks, while rabbit ravioli – with rainbow chard and a carrot cracker – was bathed in a bowl-lickingly rich rabbit sauce.

Generous mains showcased Scott's skill in crafting multidimensional dishes packed with layers of texture and flavour. Tender venison with sweet roasted plums were balanced with the umami notes of pickled beetroot puree and charred leek ash. Scott's aim to minimise food waste was evidenced in a side of puff pastry pie filled with venison offcuts.

In another dish, marinated pork tenderloin was bedded in a burnt apple puree with charred broccoli and topped with Calvados-pickled apples. It's not all fine-dining though, and options for those seeking more relaxed pub fare include beerbattered haddock and chips, and The Wig burger.

It's a mark of quality to see easily bought-in elements being made in-house, and puds such as homemade apple sorbet with crumble and blackberries were carefully crafted.

It would be remiss not to pair this Cornish fare with an equally local drink, so accompany the excellent food with a Knightor or Camel Valley wine or fizz, or St Austell Brewery beer (starting with the pub's own Judge's Gavel ale).

FOOD'S TIP There are plans afoot to transform the basement (which has had former guises as a nightclub and live music venue) into a subterranean fine-dining restaurant. Watch this space. thewigandpentruro.co.uk

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Black Cow Vodka

5 of the best

CHRISTMAS DRINKS 'Tis the season to stock the drinks cabinet with all things warming and spiced. We've rounded up the South West's finest seasonal spirits to make the festive period merry and bright

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1 Christmas Spirit Vodka,

Black Cow, Dorset

Sipping Black Cow's Christmas Spirit Vodka is like drinking liquid figgy pudding.

The recipe for the award-winning festive vodka namechecks a smorgasbord of winter fruits and spices. Currants, figs, raisins, cinnamon, brown sugar, vanilla, and orange and lemon zests are all macerated in Black Cow's velvety smooth Pure Milk Vodka, which is distilled using milk from grass-grazed cows.

The spirit packs a punch at parties, but is equally enjoyable for warming the cockles on a wintry night spent by the fire.

Enjoy it neat on the rocks, topped with Champagne or mulled in hot cloudy apple juice.

50cl £29.50 blackcow.co.uk

2 Christmas Reserve Gin,

Trevethan, Cornwall

Knowing not to mess with a good thing, the spiritsmiths at Trevethan simply made a series of seasonal tweaks to their award-winning Original London Dry recipe to fashion this elegant Christmas Reserve Gin. Building on the original's bouquet of botanicals, the distillers introduced Norwegian Spruce (grown in Cornwall) for pine notes and exaggerated the spiced citrus elements by adding extra cinnamon, vanilla and sweet orange. All these festive flavours are balanced with the sweet and tart characteristics of lime and raspberries.

Enjoy it in a Christmassy G&T with a cinnamon stick, sliced cranberries and orange zest – and the obligatory mince pie.

70cl £38 trevethandistillery.com

3 E18hteen Amaretto,

E18hteen Distillery, Somerset Those whose festive season isn't complete without a hit of almond sweetness should look no further than this amaretto that's been handcrafted by E18hteen Gin. The spirit has proved a popular addition to E18hteen's growing line of gins, liqueurs, vodkas, rums, Raw Cask Honey Whiskey and agave (English tequila), and achieved Gold at the Taste of the West Awards this year.

Produced with sugar beet molasses, the amaretto brings an instant hit of sweetness on the nose, followed by a bold almond aroma and lingering marzipan notes on the palate.

Enjoy it after dinner, on the rocks or in coffee.

50cl £25 18gin.co.uk

4 Figgy Pudding Ice Cider,

Sandford Orchards, Devon

This indulgent oak-aged ice cider is a fabulous festive alternative to traditional fortified wines. Produced using English apples, dried fruit and spices, the Figgy Pudding Ice Cider's rich flavour evokes caramel and mince pies, and features aromatics of clementine, cloves, allspice and star anise.

The ice method is used widely in winemaking, and the Sandford supremos have introduced it at their Devon cider mill. During the process the cider apple juice becomes intensified, sweeter and richer. This is a limited edition release, so get your mitts on a bottle or two ASAP. Enjoy it as a luxurious aperitif or with cheese as an alternative to port.

50cl £25 In a gift box with two brandy glasses £29.50 sandfordorchards.co.uk

5 Aged Honey Sloe Gin, Wrecking Coast Distillery, Cornwall

Everyone has their own recipe for sloe gin, but Wrecking Coast's is something special. This year, the team have taken their Honey Sloe Gin and elevated it by ageing it for 12 months in ex-bourbon barrels.

A sweet and spicy combination of gin, sloes, spice and honey, the process starts with a specially made gin packed with citrus and juniper, before adding the sloes and spice, and then leaving the botanicals to mingle.

Sweetness is added using honey to amplify the fruitiness of the sloes without hiding their tart character. The barrel ageing then imbues the gin with toasted wood notes and gives it a well-rounded flavour with hints of coffee and dark chocolate.

This is a very limited product: with only 350 bottles available this year, it's recommended to order sooner rather than later.

Enjoy it straight from a hip flask, over a cube of ice, as a twist on a hot toddy, or even with a splash of cola.

50cl £57.95 thewreckingcoastdistillery.com

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Pheasant ragu Recipe by the team at Eversfield Organic in Devon Serves 4 Chicken bone broth 250ml Dried shiitake mushrooms a handful Rapeseed oil 1 tbsp Pheasant 1 Salt and freshly ground black pepper to season Bacon 2 rashers, chopped Onion 1, peeled and chopped Carrot 1, peeled and chopped Garlic 2 cloves, peeled and crushed Coriander seeds ½ tsp Cinnamon stick ½ Mixed herbs 1 tsp White wine 125ml Tomato passata 250ml Cooked tagliatelle to serve Parmesan to serve

1 Preheat the oven to 120˚C / gas ½.

2 In a saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a simmer and then remove from the heat. Add the mushrooms and leave them to soak and swell for 5-10 minutes. Once the mushrooms are soft, remove from the broth and set aside.

3 Heat the oil in a large casserole dish. Place the pheasant in the dish, season with salt and pepper, and brown all over. Once browned, remove the pheasant from the pan and set aside.

4 Add the bacon to the pan and brown, then add the soaked mushrooms, onion, carrot, garlic, coriander, cinnamon and herbs. Lower the heat and cook for 10 minutes until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the wine and let it bubble for 1 minute, then add the broth and passata and cook for a further 10 minutes.

5 Return the browned pheasant to the casserole dish, cover with a lid, turn down the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Transfer the dish to the oven and cook for 4 hours until the meat is tender and falls off the bone.

6 Once cooked, carefully remove the pheasant and cinnamon stick from the dish. Strip the meat from the bones and add the meat back to the sauce.

Stir to combine.

7 To serve: stir the ragu through cooked tagliatelle, and finish with a sprinkle of grated parmesan. eversfieldorganic.co.uk

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Butter turkey Recipes by the team at Trewithen Dairy in Cornwall

Serves 4 Trewithen Dairy salted butter 100g Onion 1 large, peeled and chopped Garlic cloves 4 large, peeled and crushed Fresh ginger 2.5cm piece, peeled and finely grated Ground cumin 2 tsp Garam masala 2 tsp Ground coriander 1 tsp Hot chilli powder 1 tsp Chopped tomatoes 400g tin Salt 1 tsp Caster sugar 2 tsp Trewithen Dairy clotted cream 200g Fenugreek seeds 1 tsp, ground Leftover cooked turkey 800g, cut into bite-size pieces To serve:

1 Heat the butter in a large pan over a medium heat.

Once the butter has melted, add the onion and cook for 5 minutes until beginning to colour.

2 Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute, stirring occasionally. Add the cumin, garam masala, ground coriander and chilli powder and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.

3 Add the tomatoes, salt and sugar, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes until the onion is soft and the sauce is dark red. Add a splash of water if the sauce gets too thick.

4 Tip the sauce into a food processor or blender and blitz until smooth. Pour the sauce back into the pan and add the clotted cream and fenugreek seeds. Bring to a simmer, then add the turkey.

5 Cover the pan and let it simmer gently for 10 minutes until the turkey has heated through and the sauce is thick and bubbling.

6 To serve: stir the butter into the sauce. Serve in shallow bowls and sprinkle with fresh coriander and pomegranate seeds.

Trewithen Dairy salted butter 25g Coriander a handful, roughly chopped Pomegranate seeds 2 tbsp

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Topsy‑turvy tipsy trifles

Serves 6

1 For the jelly: soak the gelatin leaves in a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes until soft.

Mini trifle bowls or wine glasses 6

2 Put the raspberries and sugar in a pan over a medium heat and stir until the mixture starts to simmer. Remove from the heat and transfer into a blender. Blitz to a puree and then pass through a sieve (to remove any seeds) into a heatproof jug.

For the jelly: Gelatin leaves 2 Frozen raspberries 350g Caster sugar 4 tbsp For the trifles: Amaretti biscuits 24 Amaretto 6 tbsp Canned pears in syrup 6 halves, drained and chopped Raspberries 36 Custard 400g Trewithen Dairy clotted cream 200g

3 Squeeze any excess liquid from the gelatin leaves, then add to the raspberry puree and stir until dissolved. Leave to cool until just beginning to set but still pourable.

4 For the trifles: crush 3 amaretti biscuits into the bottom of each mini trifle bowl, then pour 1 tbsp of amaretto over each.

5 Divide the chopped pears between the bowls, then add 6 raspberries to each, pushing the fruit to the edges of the bowls. Crush 1 amaretti biscuit in each bowl over the fruit, then spoon the custard on top.

6 Pour the jelly over the custard and place the trifles in the fridge to set for 1 hour.

7 To serve: spoon a large dollop of clotted cream over the set jelly in each bowl. trewithendairy.co.uk

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THE DRINKS CURATOR Drinks pro Susy Atkins reveals her seasonal pick of the pack

SANDRIDGE BARTON BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 The first sparkling release from Sandridge Barton (the winery that's now home to Sharpham Wines) is absolutely sublime.

Made from 100 per cent Pinot Noir, and long-aged in the bottle, it's got a gorgeous fresh raspberry aroma and flavour mixed with citrus and a bready, toasty richness, ending completely dry and balanced.

Worthy of its high price tag, it might be just the gift (or treat) you're looking for over the festive season. £44 shop. sandridgebarton.com

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‘There are many varieties of British beetroot, so mix it up by using a selection of colours,’ says Tracey

Beetroot tarte tatin Recipe by Tracey Anning‑Beckett, sous chef of The Kitchen at The Donkey Sanctuary in Sidmouth, Devon Serves 4 Flour for rolling Vegan puff pastry 500g Beetroot 400g, peeled and cut into wedges Red onion 1, peeled and cut into wedges Olive oil 3 tbsp Rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp Soft brown sugar 3 tbsp Fresh thyme a few sprigs, chopped Parmesan or vegan hard cheese to finish Watercress to serve

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C / gas 6. On a floured surface, roll out the pastry to 0.5cm thick and let it rest for 5 minutes. Then place the circular ovenproof pan in which you will cook the tarte tatin on top of the pastry (upside down). Cut a circle of pastry 2cm wider than the lip of the pan.

Remove the pan and cover the pastry with a tea towel to stop it drying out while you cook the vegetables.

2 Toss the beetroot and onion wedges in 2 tbsp of oil, then stir in the vinegar and sugar, and season with salt and pepper.

3 Heat 1 tbsp of oil in the circular pan. Once hot, add the beetroot and onion mix and spread evenly. Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 45 minutes until the vegetables begin to soften.

4 Remove the pan from the oven and remove the foil. Sprinkle the thyme over the vegetables, then cover with the pastry and tuck in the edges so the vegetables are completely covered. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 35 minutes until the pastry is golden.

5 Slide a palette knife around the edge of the pastry to release the tarte from the pan. Cover the pan with a plate that's slightly larger, then carefully flip to release the tart onto the plate.

6 To serve: top the tarte with grated parmesan or vegan hard cheese, and serve with a side salad of dressed watercress. thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk

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IT'S ALL GRAVY A Christmas lunch plate stacked high with roast meats or a nut roast and all the trimmings seems entirely naked without a generous splash of gravy.

Melissa Stewart investigates the history of the British staple and shares a make‑ahead recipe to take some of the stress out of Christmas morning

A meaty history The origins of gravy are a little hazy, but one of its earliest mentions is in the 14th-century British recipe book The Forme of Cury. It is thought the word ‘gravy’ is derived from the Old French word ‘gravé’, meaning a seasoned broth or sauce.

Aah! Bisto ...

Gravy has cropped up in British cookbooks across the centuries, notably in John Nott's The Cook's and Confectioner's Dictionary (1723), the Accomplish'd Housewife's Companion

by Eliza Smith (1927) and in Elizabeth Acton's bestselling Victorian cookbook Modern Cookery for Private Families.

However, it wasn't until the 20th century that gravy became available to the masses, thanks to Oxo and Bisto. The brands made it simple for anyone to whip up a jug of gravy using a stock cube, hot water and a little flour or, even easier, granules and boiling water.

Gravy from scratch Despite the quick fixes available, keen home cooks know there's no substitute for the real deal made from homemade stock and the scrapings of a pan in which meat has been roasted. But do the pros have any other secrets they could impart to help us craft the perfect jus?

‘The secret to a good gravy is in the stock and the alcohol used,’ says Tom Chivers (pictured above), head chef of The Farm Table at Darts Farm in Devon. ‘We make our own stock, but for an easier option at home I'd suggest a good quality stock like the ones made by The Pure Stock Company in Exeter.

‘The other important thing is to use alcohol of a quality you'd drink. It doesn't need to be the finest wine, but don't use wine that's been open for a long time or doesn't taste good or it'll come through in the gravy. If you're avoiding alcohol, add 50g of sugar for each bottle of wine you remove from the recipe and replace the liquid content with beef stock.’

Turn the page for Tom's make-ahead gravy recipe.

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‘The secret to a good gravy is in the stock and the alcohol used’

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The home of

Range Cooking

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For expert advice and to explore one of largest collections of appliances in the South West, visit Rangemoors.

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Showrooms. • The Airfield, Torrington•Rd, EX19 8DW. 14 Oaktree Place, Manaton Close, Exeter EX2 8WA ESSE • FALCON LACANCHE LAWinkleigh CORNUE • MERCURY • RAYBURN • RANGEMASTER Food NovDec 23 S5.indd 46

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Make-ahead gravy ‘To keep it simple, make the same gravy for turkey, goose or beef,’ says Tom. ‘This way, if you have a few meat options on Christmas Day it doesn't get confusing – this gravy will work with all three.’

g

Makes around 1l

Beef trimmings 350g, cut into chunks Rapeseed oil a dash Salt Large banana shallots 5, peeled and roughly sliced Red wine 2 bottles (for richer gravy, substitute one bottle of wine for port) Fresh thyme 20g Fresh rosemary 20g Whole black peppercorns 10 Bay leaves 2 Garlic bulb 1, halved lengthways Chicken stock 500ml Beef stock 1l Cornflour Roasted chestnuts 1 pack, roughly chopped (optional)

1 In a large saucepan, cook the beef trimmings with a dash of oil and a pinch of salt (don't add too much, as the gravy will be seasoned properly once reduced). This needs to be at a temperature where the beef starts to caramelise and leaves golden brown colouring on the bottom of the pan.

2 Add the sliced shallots to the beef. As they cook, they will start to acquire some of the beef colouring from the bottom of the pan.

3 Once the shallots begin to colour, add the wine (and port if using), thyme, rosemary, peppercorns, bay leaves and garlic. Reduce the liquid by ⅔ (roughly 500ml).

‘This can be refrigerated for three days or frozen for up to a month,’ says Tom

4 Add the stocks and reduce further until you have around 1l of liquid. Strain through a sieve and add salt to taste. At this point you can add 1 or some of the festive optional extras.

5 If you need to thicken the gravy, do this on the day you serve it. Mix a small amount of cornflour with cold water to make a paste and gradually whisk this into the gravy at a medium heat before serving.

Cranberries a handful (optional) Nutmeg a pinch, grated (optional)

dartsfarm.co.uk

Oranges 2, zest (optional)

R

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Notes from a Michelin kitchen Chef Scott Paton provides a peek behind the pass of his restaurant, Àclèaf, at Boringdon Hall near Plymouth

We've had a record‑breaking three months at Àclèaf as we continue to reap the rewards of our Michelin success. While the restaurant has been busy, our commitment to keep building on the Boringdon experience has continued behind the scenes.

BESPOKE DIGESTIFS The team at Devon Distillery also made a trip to the restaurant this month. We're working on expanding our range of digestifs and have added their Dappa (Devon grappa) and Devoncello (a spin on Limoncello) to the drinks list.

The next step is to design our own bespoke range of seasonal liqueurs for guests to enjoy after their meal at Àclèaf. For inspiration, I've been thinking about how I'd like guests to feel and my initial thought is to create something uplifting. I think citrus flavours would work well for summer, and for winter I'm imagining something with spicy chocolate notes to be enjoyed by a roaring fire. Watch this space.

PRODUCER WORKSHOPS We have a really strong team of chefs in the kitchen, so we don't often have new recruits. When we do, they're usually apprentices because I've always been passionate about championing new talent and giving young chefs opportunities to work in high-end kitchens.

I believe that building knowledge inspires passion, so I regularly invite producers we work with to do workshops with the chefs. Our venison supplier Curtis Pitts recently visited to share his story with the team and show them how to butcher an entire animal.

We'll be serving Curtis' venison on the menu this season. The dish will be tailored to what's available, and we've been working on a pairing with stuffed dates (pictured top).

NOËL AT THE HALL Boringdon is a magical place to spend Christmas. The team pour huge effort into dressing the hotel and creating very special festive experiences.

As always, we'll be working on a signature seasonal afternoon tea, which can be enjoyed by the fire in our Great Hall. While it will be classic, don't expect mince pies and Christmas cake: like all things here, we'll be pulling out all the creative stops to craft an exceptional experience. acleaf.co.uk

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Michelin-starred chef Kevin Viner returns to his roots with the relaunch of Pennypots within this rural pub with rooms in Ladock

Kevin Viner @ T H E FA L M O U T H A R M S

The Falmouth Arms is a 17th century inn serving local, seasonal food.

01726 882319

www.falmoutharms.com

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Drift away this winter

Head to St Agnes in Cornwall for a cosy escape combining coastal pursuits, scrumptious food and a plethora of handcrafted beers

The Driftwood Spars is an enticing destination for epicureans and adventurers in all seasons, but during the autumn and winter this atmospheric old inn comes into its own. Named for the huge wooden spars that form its vaulted roof (plundered from some of the many ships wrecked on this unforgiving stretch of coast), it's a much‑loved haven for locals and visitors alike.

On the rugged and windswept north coast, you can taste the salt on the breeze. It's easy to lose yourself for days on end in this restorative enclave, nestled between dramatic cliffs and crashing waves. Work up an appetite by traversing the South West Coast Path or riding the surf, then head back to The Drifty (as locals call it) to get stuck into fireside board games over a pint brewed on-site, before feasting on tasty Cornish produce.

End your day by cosying up in one of the comfortable bedrooms to the sound of waves breaking on the shore.

A visit to the inn's award-winning microbrewery is essential, and tours and tastings are easily arranged.

Head brewer Mike Mason will explain how the brewery's handcrafted beers have evolved into modern classics while the team have maintained the traditions of small-batch brewing. The Cove brand of beers is

his latest creation, a contemporary canned range of gluten-free and vegan beers crafted using the finest British new-wave hops, and adorned with striking artwork by local illustrator Jago Silver.

Back at the pub, taste your way through a menu that features pub classics and daily specials. Local seafood is put to good use and combined simply with fresh seasonal veg. There's plenty of scope for food and beer matching too, with a revolving selection of six cask beers plus keg and bottled varieties to try.

A winter winner is Midnight Skinny Dipper, a smooth and rich milk stout with sweet and satisfying flavours of chocolate and caramel. Inspired by late night summertime jaunts into the silky sea at Trevaunance Cove, it's delicious paired with autumnal game dishes or as an alternative to dessert. driftwoodspars.co.uk

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WIN

a Family Christmas Hamper worth £125

If there's ever a time to splash out on quality locally reared meat then it's at Christmas, when friends and family gather around the table, anticipating the first bite of a meal they've dreamt about for days.

To help customers get their hands on the goodies, this year the team will open their Newham butchery so locals can buy direct, as well as from the website and at farmers' markets across the area.

The team at Primrose Herd near Truro supply top-notch ethically reared meats all year round, but in December demand for their goods goes off the chart as home cooks pull out all the stops to serve superlative roast hams, pigs in blankets and sausage stuffing.

To find out how to get your hands on Primrose Herd's quality products for your Christmas feast, head to its website for details – including opening hours at the butchery.

Known and loved for its high-welfare pork for over two decades, Primrose Herd recently diversified its offering and now sells a range of meats reared on Cornish soil.

Its multi-award-winning pork products are still a highlight, however, especially the chorizo hotdogs which scooped a prestigious gold medal in the National Craft Butchers Product Awards in September.

Primrose owner Sally Lugg and crew also collected silver honours for their smoked and unsmoked bacon, and cracked black pepper sausages, plus a bronze for their traditional sausages, bringing the awards tally up to five.

THE PRIZE A Family Christmas Hamper featuring streaky bacon (1kg), sausage meat (1kg), chipolatas (1kg), unsmoked gammon (3kg) and pork shoulder (2kg), worth £125.

THE QUESTION How many awards did Primrose Herd win at the National Craft Butchers Product Awards?

To enter, visit

food‑mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions.

Closing date for entries is November 30, 2023.

primroseherd.co.uk

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dinner for two overlooking St Michael's Mount

Located at the heart of Mount's Bay and overlooking Marazion beach, The Goldolphin enjoys incredible views across the water to St Michael's Mount. However, it's no regular Georgian seaside hotel: inside, a treasure trove of boho furnishings and eye-catching curios create an enchanting sense of fun and wonder.

Kick off a visit to the contemporary hotel and restaurant with a trip to the cocktail bar to sip a Pretty in Pink, a tantalising fusion of Tarquin's Rhubarb & Raspberry Gin topped with rosé bubbles, lemon and Fever-Tree Raspberry & Orange Blossom Soda.

Aperitifs imbibed, make your way to Shutters restaurant where head chef Kai Taylor and team work closely with dayboat fishermen and local farmers to create dishes that shine a light on the best Cornish produce.

Starters such as plump St Austell Bay mussels and unctuous rillettes of Cornish black pig pave the way for the likes of Ruby Red beef short rib, Creedy Carver duck and locally caught plaice and sea bass. End your evening on a sweet high with a tempting dessert, such

as wood-smoked pineapple with cinnamon and lime syrup.

For the full Godolphin experience, book a bed for the night in one of its ten chic rooms. It's worth sleeping over to sample the breakfast menu, which is stacked with crowd-pleasers featuring South West staples such as hog's pudding and Cornish kippers.

THE PRIZE A three-course dinner for two at Shutters restaurant, including a bottle of wine.

THE QUESTION Which iconic Cornish landmark does The Godolphin overlook?

To enter, visit

food‑mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions.

Closing date for entries is December 31, 2023.

thegodolphin.com

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WIN

the ultimate barbecue spice kit Lighting up the grill or stoking the fire to cook over flame isn't just the preserve of summer. Seasoned barbecuers will take on all weathers in pursuit of the perfect low-and-slow pork shoulder or smoky vegetables charred in embers.

We've teamed up with Cut to the Smoke to treat one lucky all-weather pit-meister to an Ultimate BBQ Shaker Gift Set, which features ten spice shakers – five of which have scooped Great Taste gongs.

The team at Cut to the Smoke in Hampshire champion fire cooking all year round. The flavoursmiths blend artisan spice mixes to elevate all kinds of ingredients – from their smoky barbecue chilli rub to slather on slow-cooked brisket to their date and cinnamon seasoning for the Christmas ham.

Keen 'cuer and Cut to the Smoke founder Nigel Webster started crafting the spice mixes for his own use, but when the compliments started rolling in he decided to share his handiwork with fellow enthusiasts.

He's since won a glut of Great Taste awards for his products, and improved the company's eco credentials by switching the packaging to a range of refillable tins and recyclable pouches.

THE PRIZE An Ultimate BBQ Shaker Gift Set worth £70.

THE QUESTION How many shakers are included in the Ultimate BBQ Shaker Gift Set? To enter, visit

food‑mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions.

Closing date for entries is December 31, 2023.

cuttothesmoke.co.uk

His latest innovation is customisable spice blends. Ideal for creative cooks who want to compose their own bespoke mix, the nifty product lets them select their own ratio of their favourite herbs and spices.

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Discover more of the vi South West’s vibrant food and drink scene at …

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food-mag.co.uk The Dartmoor Inn, as featured in 5 of the best Devon dining pubs

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Last bite

MAXIM WORTLEY The head chef of Sacred Grounds in Exeter reveals some of his foodie secrets, including his favourite vegan sushi find and guilty food pleasure

WHICH KITCHEN ITEM COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT? A sharp and sturdy kitchen knife. The price of the knife doesn't matter; as long as it's well maintained it will last forever.

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE KITCHEN? Lately, it's been the likes of Chris Isaak and Jeff Buckley. Chilled music is good because you can still concentrate on what you're doing.

However, if it's really hectic in the kitchen and there are new recipes to iron out, I need silence – no matter how relaxing the music is.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE? A fellow chef and I recently catered for a Champagne and canapé event and it was very rewarding.

As well as making and serving over 100 canapés, the two of us poured Champagne and entertained socialites. It was a lot of fun and we pulled it off without a hitch. You can feel imposter syndrome in this job, but when you take a step back and see people enjoying what you've created, that feeling disappears.

YOUR MOST‑READ RECIPE BOOK? The Flavour Thesaurus by Niki Segnit. It's not really a recipe book, but I use it to look up a flavour I want to work with and it suggests ingredients to complement. It's super useful when I'm working with an unfamiliar ingredient.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT OUT? Goto Japanese in Exeter is incredible for sushi. It has lots of vegan options, the service is nice and the sake delicious. I go there alone so no one can judge how much I order (one of everything vegan).

BEST STAYCATION SPOT? Glastonbury. There's a cabin just outside of town where my wife and I stay. It's completely silent, with no wifi or TV – a proper retreat.

And there are good places to eat out nearby, like the George & Pilgrims Inn which is great for classic pub food.

GUILTY FOOD PLEASURE? I eat a lot of biangbiang noodles, which are similar to Sichuan noodles. To make them, I roll out the dough until it's super thin and smack it on the worktop (the sound it makes is where it gets its name). I then cut, boil and toss the noodles in rippling-hot oil with chilli flakes and spring onions. It's quick and easy but the result is intensely delicious.

DESERT ISLAND MEAL? Before I started working at Sacred Grounds I was a frequent customer and kept coming back to eat the waffles stacked with poached pears, pistachio cream and dried cherries. It's easily the best dessert I've ever eaten and I'm definitely going to put it back on the menu. sacredgrounds.co

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‘E

Fe s t i v e D e c e m b e r D i n i n g AT T H E

Pe n v e n t o n P a r k H o t e l This Christmas, delve into the extraordinary.

Savour delectable cuisine and tempting tipples and join in the merriment Christmas has to hold. www.penventon.co.uk/festive-december-dining/ 01209 203000 | enquiries@penventon.com

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