Product Picks

This permanent colour cream is ideal for creating healthy-looking, multidimensional results with cool reflects.

This multi-use powder lightener contains the brand’s bonding technology and antiyellow molecules for up to seven levels of lift with less breakage.

Matrix Curl Lights

This two-step lightening system is designed to preserve curl patterns and has a creamy texture for easier application.

“It’s about being low and slow and as gentle as possible,” she says. “The most devastating thing for a client is to see their curl pattern destroyed, which is very common. The slower and gentler the method, the better.”

While wavy (type 2) hair can often be approached similarly to straight-hair types, curls (type 3) and coils (type 4) require a more tailored approach. Experts recommend hand-painting the individual curls to ensure that the placement is soft yet visible.

“It’s not to say that you can’t foil curly hair if you need that incubation, but my approach is geared toward hand-painting and insulating it with a processing cap or plastic wrap to ensure that the lightening result is enough,” says Marilyn Rose, an international Redken artist, curl specialist and owner of Curlology by Marilyn in Ottawa. “Saturation is important for any lightening service, but it can be tricky on curly hair. It’s important to make sure that the curl is saturated all the way around, underneath and throughout that curl strand.”

PRO TIP SINCE CURLY HAIR TENDS TO NOT BE AS SHINY OR REFLECTIVE AS STRAIGHT HAIR, ROSE RECOMMENDS CREATING DIMENSION IN CURLS BY USING TWO SHADES LIGHTER TO CREATE DEFINITION AND MAKE THE CURLS POP.

When applying highlights or babylights to curly hair, it’s important to colour individual curls and avoid slicing the hair as you would for straight-hair types. For those who want an all-over lightened result, Rose suggests applying babylights back to back for a lighter and brighter result. However, note that applying only a few babylights throughout the head will often get lost in curly hair.

“Some people may feel like they put in so many highlights, but you can’t see them when the hair is dried because the highlights were too small. The colour wasn’t customized to the client’s hair and they weren’t painting individual curls,” she says. “The more textured the hair is and tighter the curl, the finer the sections should be to make sure you have complete saturation for depositing or lifting.”

For curly-haired clients who are just looking to add some dimension into their hair, it’s recommended to avoid high-contrast (and high-maintenance) colour. Instead, opt for a more natural, sun-kissed approach.

“Having some colour and dimension in the hair will make curls look better,” says Rose. “For dimensional colour, maintenance is very low. They usually need to do it twice a year. Hair grows out before it grows down, and the roots aren’t as noticeable compared to straight hair.”