#59 The Autumn Issue

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Q+A MARTIN JARRIE VAMP gets together with the celebrated French artist whose surreal, eclectic style has captivated global audiences for decades

AUTUMN MOOD Robert Walker defines the season with looks that perfectly capture its essence

++++ > 18. SPIRTUAL SHIFT > 52. AUTUMN MOOD / ‘24 > 20. INSIDE THE MIND OF MARTIN JARRIE > 30. 12TH ANNUAL A+AWARDS > 42. DESIGN THROUGH THE DECADES > 60. PUSHING BOUNDARIES > 68. AUTUMN GLAM > 70. A CULINARY JOURNEY > 74. FROM CLARITY TO CALM ++++ >>

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VIEW BROCHURE

WE

BRING TO LIFE

YOUR

CONTENTS

“BEAUTY IS ESTABLISHED IN MULTITUDE WHEN THE MANY IS REDUCED INTO ONE” – PLOTINUS

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s we step into October, this issue celebrates the beauty of transformation, both in nature as well as the arts. With the arrival of Autumn, VAMP invites you to explore a host diverse journeys of creativity and selfdiscovery. In “Spiritual Shift,” Sheetol Chawla takes us on an ethereal journey through nature and craftsmanship, showcasing stunning handdyed silk designs that reflect a deeper quest for enlightenment. Meanwhile, our beauty section embraces the season’s warm, earthy tones, with a nod to retro glamour through flushed red blush and smudged eyeliner—perfect for those looking to refresh their look this fall.

Culinary enthusiasts will relish Adrian Bonello’s innovative approach at Xara Catering, where Maltese tradition meets modern dining experiences, creating a feast for the senses.

In the realm of design, we highlight a unique exhibition merging artistic expression in various forms, featuring visionary artists at the UQAM Centre de Design.

Our artist spotlight shines on Martin Jarrie, whose surreal, eclectic style captivates audiences worldwide, reminding us of the power of imagination. Additionally, we delve into the importance of intuition in decision-making, guiding you to trust your instincts and develop self-awareness.

Finally, we explore innovative architectural achievements which stole the show at the Architizer 12th Annual A+Awards this year, showcasing 200 firms from 80+ countries who are rethinking, reinventing and re imagining architecture’s contribution in today’s world.

Join us as we celebrate the convergence of art, beauty, and culinary innovation this season.

018. SPIRITUAL SHIFT

068. AUTUMN GLAM

Sheetol Chawla’s ‘Spiritual Shift’ explores the journey to enlightenment, blending nature, fluidity, and craftsmanship in ethereal, hand-dyed silk designs

As we embrace the arrival of autumn, it’s time to let your makeup mirror the rich, earthy tones of the season

020. INSIDE THE MIND OF MARTIN JARRIE Discover the imaginative world of Martin Jarrie, a celebrated French artist whose surreal, eclectic style has captivated global audiences for decades

030. A+A AWARDS Vamp reviews highlights the staggering works from the 12th Annual A+Awards which are founded on the premise of democratising architecture

042. DESIGN THROUGH THE DECADES We visit the 50th anniversary at the Centre de Design in Montreal, presenting an exhibition showcasing five decades of creative evolution and interconnectivity of various design disciplines

052. AUTUMN MOOD Golden autumn leaves, cozy Tommy Hilfiger layers, and crisp air—capturing the essence of fall fashion in nature’s warm embrace

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Discover Adrian Bonello’s culinary journey at Xara Catering, blending Maltese tradition with innovation, fresh ingredients, and modern dining experiences

074. FROM CLARITY TO CALM Unlocking the power of intuition—learn how to trust your gut, develop selfawareness, and sharpen your instincts for better decision-making

078. EQUALITY!?

Vamp meets up with De Mondion’s talented Executive Chef at Xara Lodge & Xara Catering, Adrian Bonello

082. THE POWER OF NO!

Kevin Chase shares his thoughts on bringing up children in todays modern world

Editor Kay Psaila

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Design / Art Direction Vocab®

We review a textile exhibition showcasing the innovative spirit of women in textile design, featuring compelling works from textile artists and designers

Photographer Matthew B Spiteri

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavor to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. Copyright 2024

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070. UPDATE: A CULINARY JOURNEY

Stylist Robert Walker Sales Director Sam Psaila T:7788 0300

Contributors Livia Arrigo Jenette Bajada Lira Bekalotova Kevin Chase Gabriel Caruana Dayna Clark Charlie De Costa Clint Grech Micheal Kent Simon Laveuve Maria Makarycheva Nicola Powell Mike Teermie

DESIGN

[ SPIRITUAL SHIFT ]

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[“AN EXPLORATION OF THE SPIRITUAL JOURNEY TOWARDS ENLIGHTENMENT THROUGH FASHION”]

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heetol Chawla’s newest collection, Spiritual Shift, is a captivating blend of natural beauty and spiritual awakening. The collection draws inspiration from the fluidity and freedom found in the natural world, particularly through the graceful movements of a pair of swans. This elegant imagery is woven into each piece, using light, organic materials that evoke a sense of fluidity and flow, creating a narrative of serenity and spiritual liberation.

At the heart of the collection is the designer’s fascination with the path toward spiritual enlightenment. Through the use of draping and layers, Chawla illustrates

the spirit’s journey toward peace and freedom from the rigid confines of the material world. Each garment is thoughtfully designed to capture the ethereal qualities of light and movement, imbuing the wearer with a sense of tranquility and weightlessness.

Hand-dyed ivory silk organza, coloured with natural turmeric, sets the tone for the collection’s palette—a delicate blur of soft, natural shades that mimic the hypnotic and dreamlike state of spiritual awakening. The fabrics, treated with an artisanal touch, reflect Chawla’s deep respect for the natural world and her commitment to sustainability and craftsman-

ship. The hand-dyed turmeric hue not only creates a visual softness but also conveys a deeper connection to organic purity.

The craftsmanship in this collection is as breathtaking as its concept. Over 500 metres of delicate cording, combined with intricate pin tucks and loose layers, bring a sense of life and movement to the gowns. The flowing, ever-expanding layers give the impression that the garments are breathing—alive with growth and transformation. This expansion, symbolic of personal and spiritual growth, aligns with Chawla’s belief that moving forward and evolving is the only way to truly embrace freedom. [ V ]

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ART

INSIDE THE MIND OF

MARTIN JARRIE FROM PARIS TO GLOBAL ACCLAIM

Martin Jarrie, a renowned French artist and illustrator, has captivated audiences for over four decades with his eclectic and evolving style. Beginning his career in Paris with hyper realistic drawings for advertising, Jarrie soon transitioned to a more personal and expressive approach influenced by masters like Giotto, Matisse, and Robert Zakanitch. His work, enriched by elements of surrealism, Italian primitives, and outsider art, has garnered prestigious awards such as the Grand Prix at the Biennial of Bratislava and the Best Album Award at the Montreuil Children’s Book Fair. Jarrie’s art, celebrated for its inventiveness, humour,

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and sensuality, continues to inspire and delight a global audience. Vamp caught up with the artist to find out more...

Could you talk to us about your journey as an artist, from your beginnings in Paris to your current style?

When I arrived in Paris, my portfolio consisted of hyperrealistic drawings and the trend in advertising was also hyperrealism, so I started with advertising commissions in this style. I also quickly began illustrating children’s books for Gallimard in a more documentary style. This lasted for ten years. However, I soon felt the urge to

draw and paint in a more personal style, influenced by painters like Giotto, Matisse, and an American painter, Robert Zakanitch – very eclectic influences.

In 1991, I decided to present a more personal portfolio to my agent and took on a pseudonym. This was very decisive, and I felt like I had a second creative birth! Then, my style asserted itself and evolved, changing over time. I think that now, my style has been enriched by the multiple layers traversed over all these years, from the realism of the beginnings to the childlike joy I rediscovered later by changing style and name. >>

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Have you ever encountered an unexpected element that influenced your work?

I think of discovering this American painter, Robert Zakanitch, during a vacation in the south of France in 1983. He exhibited very large canvases full of sensuality in the subjects – fruits, flowers, animals – and in his way of painting with thick, generous strokes on the canvas. This impressed me greatly and was a kind of revelation at the time, even though I didn’t follow that path afterward.

What does being a successful artist mean to you?

I don’t know what that means; in any case, it doesn’t apply to me. I am a painter and illustrator who has lived off his work for 43 years, and that is my main “success.”

How do surrealism, Italian primitives, outsider art, and contemporary art manifest in your work?

These are movements and artistic expressions that have greatly nourished

me for decades. I love the collages and juxtapositions in surrealism, “like the chance encounter on a dissecting table of a sewing machine and an umbrella,” as Lautréamont said. In Italian primitives, I was struck by the harmony of colors and perspective in Giotto, and in outsider art and contemporary art, the use of materials other than paint, such as wood, fabric, wax, etc.

Which contemporary artists inspire you and why?

Many contemporary artists inspire me. I think of Eduardo Arroyo for the composition of canvases in panels that interact with each other. I think of Jean-Pierre Pincemin for his work between abstraction and figuration and his painterly touch. I think of Martin Assig for his compositions and color palette. I think of Vincent Bioulès for his landscape paintings, and I think of David Hockney for his childlike joy of painting.

How have awards from groups like Communication Arts and the Society of

Illustrators impacted your career?

These awards, which I was pleased to receive, did not impact my career. However, some prizes received in France and Europe had an impact. I am particularly thinking of the Grand Prix at the Biennial of Bratislava in 1997 and the Best Album Award received in 2002 at the Children’s Book Fair in Montreuil near Paris. These were both somewhat challenging books for children, and they allowed me to continue on this difficult and demanding path.

How do you balance your artistic vision with the demands of commercial projects?

It has always been difficult to achieve a balance. To be honest, I have always struggled to incorporate artistic elements into commercial projects, with very, very, very rare exceptions. The constraints are too great, and I have rarely had the talent or opportunity to marry the two. Now, I only accept projects where I feel I will have freedom, at least the freedom to have fun. >>

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[ ...“I HOPE THAT MY WORK CAN MAKE PEOPLE HAPPY AND INSPIRE TH TO DISCOVER CERTAIN PAI Can you discuss the creative process behind your award-winning works “The Mechanical Colossus” and “Knock, Knock, Mr. Cric-Crac!”?

These are two very different projects. In the case of “Knock, Knock, Mr. Cric-Crac!,” it was about illustrating a funny and meaningful text by Alain Serres. It was the first album I was asked to illustrate, and it was an opportunity for me to develop a kind of graphic code (houses, characters, objects), and it was a great pleasure and almost like a game.

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For “The Mechanical Colossus,” it’s a whole different story. Following a visit to an exhibition of 18th-century engravings

by Gautier d’Agoty at the National Library in Paris, I wanted to create large drawings and paintings of imaginary anatomy. I made about thirty of them, as well as sculptures.

This collection was exhibited at the Montreuil Children’s Book Fair near Paris in 1996, and the director of the fair and the director of Editions Nathan decided to make it into a book with texts by Michel Chaillou. I believe that’s what drove me to draw these imaginary anatomies was the

mystery of inhabiting a body and proceeding with these paintings as in a voodoo ritual or, like in Mary Shelley’s “Frankenstein,” the secret and illusory hope of creating life.

There was something very intoxicating in creating these paintings.

What inspired your projects “The Fabulous Alphabet” and “A Big Kitchen Like a Garden”?

For “The Fabulous Alphabet,” my childhood love for dictionaries and encyclopedias made me want to create this picture book.

Starting from real and sometimes very

ART

EM TO CREATE, AS IT DID FOR ME WHEN I DISCOVERED AND CONTINUE NTERS AND ARTISTS.”... ] rare quotes found in various dictionaries, I wanted to translate them into intriguing, surreal, or naive images. As for “A Big Kitchen Like a Garden,” I have been painting fruits and vegetables for a very long time (perhaps a memory of my father’s garden). I had many of these paintings in my studio, and a publisher, Alain Serres, suggested using them to illustrate a cookbook.

What impact do you hope your art will have on viewers or society?

I hope that my work can make people

happy and inspire them to create, as it did for me when I discovered and continue to discover certain painters and artists. That would be wonderful! As for having an impact on society, that seems illusory to me.

What do you want people to take away from your art?

Inventiveness, humour, the pleasure of discovery, and a certain sensuality.

How do you balance art as self-expression with art as a product?

I don’t see art as a product. Of course, I am happy to be able to sell my works to make a living, but I don’t think about that when I create a painting, drawing, or sculpture.

What motivates you and makes you creative as an artist?

It gives me a reason to live and not constantly think about my mortality. It’s my oxygen and nourishment; it keeps me moving forward in life and often allows me to connect with others despite being very solitary. [ V ]

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MAKE LIFE A RIDE

Architizer, the world’s leading online platform for architecture, announces the winners of the 12th Annual A+Awards. Founded on the premise of democratising architecture, the A+Awards is the industry’s largest and most international awards program and honors the best buildings and spaces from across the globe.

ARCHITECTURE

Architizer 12th Annual A+Awards Winners Rethink, Reinvent, and Reimagine

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Atelier Gardens HAUS 1 / MVRDV Berlin

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ow in its 12th season, the A+Awards celebrate the work of over 200 firms from 80+ countries who are rethinking, reinventing and reimagining architecture’s contribution to society as a whole. Five new categories honoring adaptive reuse and renovation projects join accolades for the innovative use of new materials, AI technology, and rigorously defined green building practices to round out the season’s spotlight on a hopeful architectural future around the globe.

“The architectural profession feels more relevant today than ever before, and the ability to drive change and determine the quality of the future rests with us as architects. This season’s winners make me hopeful about what’s to come.” Koichi Takada, Principal, Koichi Takada Architects After reviewing an unprecedented number of submissions in 126 categories, the distinguished A+Awards Jury has selected the world’s most compelling and impactful architecture of the year. The 2024 winners, which are also chosen through an online public vote, comprise an inspiring cross section of architecture today, including both emerging talent and esteemed industry leaders. >> FALL_‘24 ISSUE

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Skamlingsbanken Visitor Centre by CEBRA, Sjølund, Denmark

[“A CELEBRATION OF THE WORKS FROM OVER 200 FIRMS IN 80+ COUNTRIES, RETHINKING, REINVENTING, AND REIMAGINING ARCHITECTURE’S CONTRIBUTION TO SOCIETY.”]

Zhejiang Province, China, a concept library by HCCH Studio

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Tainan Public Library by Mecanoo, Delft, Netherlands

ARCHITECTURE

Duntax Office / 6717 Studio

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DOMINO SUGAR REFINERY New York City, United States

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Bengaluru’s Kempegowda International Airport Terminal 2

[“THESE AWARDS ARE AN OPPORTUNITY TO SHARE MEANINGFUL, CHANGE-MAKING INNOVATIONS FOR OUR PLANET AND COMMUNITIES.”]

The 12th A+Awards were judged by Architizer’s 250+ jury academy comprising leading architecture and design voices, as well as luminaries from the diverse fields of art, technology, fashion, media, business, and real estate. See all 12th Annual A+Awards jurors here.

“These awards are an opportunity to share meaningful, change-making innovations, so we can continue to make even better projects for our planet and our communities.”

Michael Green, Founder and Principal, MGA | Michael Green Architecture With official partners v2com newswire, AIA New York, Aoyama Design Forum, the Global Design Awards Lab, Architecture 2030, and Aesthetica, Architizer will honor winners online via its 5+ million virtual community. Architizer will also celebrate winners at a live reception this fall, accompanying the release of its annual anthology Architizer: The World’s Best Architecture. This stun-

ning, hardbound compendium is the definitive guide to the year’s best architecture and spaces.

About Architizer Architizer’s core mission is to empower architects. Through its inspiring content, awards program, and vast online reach, Architizer connects architects with the tools they need to build better buildings, better cities, and a better world. >>

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ARCHITECTURE

Chengdu Museum of Contemporary Art, Tianfu Library of Humanity and Art by CSWADI, Chengdu, China

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ARCHITECTURE

Halley VI, British Antarctic research station by Hugh Broughton Architects and AECOM

“THE ARCHITECTURAL PROFESSION FEELS MORE ARCHITECTS DRIVING CHANGE AND SHAPING THE

Češča Vas Pool Complex by Miran Kambič by ENOTA

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The Abrahamic Family House, Saadiyat Cultural District in Abu Dhabi

ARCHITECTURE

The Fenghuangshan Sports Park, Chengdu, China

RELEVANT TODAY THAN EVER BEFORE, WITH FUTURE.” 12th Annual A+Awards Project/Firm Winners ‘24:

• Abrahamic Family House by Adjaye Associates (Abu Dhabi, UAE)

• Omar Gandhi Architects (Canada, Jurors’ Choice, Best Small Firm)

• Skamlingsbaken Visitor Centre by CEBRA (Sjølund, Denmark)

• Alison Brooks Architects (UK, Jurors’ Choice, Best Medium Firm)

• Tainan Public Library by Mecanoo (Tainan, Taiwan)

• Foster + Partners (UK, Jurors’ Choice, Best Large Firm)

• Google Borregas by MGA | Michael Green Architecture (Sunnyvale, USA)

• Bernardes Arquitetura (Brazil, Jurors’ Choice, Best Residential Firm)

• Richard Gilder Center for Science, Education and Innovation at the American Museum of Natural History by Studio Gang (New York, USA)

• KieranTimberlake (USA, Jurors’ Choice, Best Sustainable Firm)

• Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru – Terminal 2 by Skidmore, Owings and Merrill (Bengaluru, India)

• Neri&Hu Design and Research Office (China, Jurors’ Choice, Best Adaptive Reuse and Renovation Firm) The complete list of winners can be found at https://winners.architizer.com/

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DE SIG DESIGN

THROUGH THE DECADES

UQAM’S SCHOOL OF DESIGN, CELEBRATES IT’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY AT THE CENTRE DE DESIGN IN MONTREAL PRESENTING AN EXHIBITION THAT RESONATES WITH A PUBLIC CURIOUS TO DISCOVER THE DIVERSITY AND ECLECTICISM OF THE DESIGN MILIEU.

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PARCOURS PRESENTS THE TRAJECTORIES OF FIFTY GRADUATES FROM THE SCHOOL OF DESIGN’S SIX ACADEMIC PROGRAMS, FROM THEIR FIRST STUDENT WORKS TO THEIR MOST RECENT CREATIONS. ALL GENERATIONS THAT HAVE PASSED THROUGH THE SCHOOL SINCE 1974 ARE REPRESENTED. FIVE DECADES OF CREATIVE ARCHIVES HAVE BEEN SEARCHED TO HIGHLIGHT THE EVOLUTION AND INTERCONNECTIVITY OF THE VARIOUS DESIGN DISCIPLINES TAUGHT AT THE SCHOOL, INCLUDING GRAPHIC DESIGN, INDUSTRIAL DESIGN, ARCHITECTURE AND URBAN DESIGN, FASHION DESIGN, TRANSPORTATION DESIGN, EVENT DESIGN, AND MODERN PATRIMONIAL STUDIES. >>

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Ying Gao, fashion design, 2000, Student project: Digital illustrations, 1999 Teacher: Frédéric Metz.

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Right: Recent project: robotic polymorphic clothing, 2 5 2 6, 2022 Photo credit: Maude Arsenault

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Catherine Lebrun, 2008, Student project: extract from the promotional flyer for the UQAM Graphic Design Graduate Exhibition, 2008

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(Right:) Recent project: Official Team Canada clothing line at the Paris Olympic Games, lululemon, 2024 Photo credit: lululemon

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Melissa Mongiat, B.A graphic design 2001, Student project: (Left) “interactive” wooden object and its cardboard model, Mysterious Box, 1998 Teacher: Frédéric Metz. (Right:) Recent project: interactive installation at the Quartier des spectacles in Montreal, 21 swings, Daily tous les jours, 2011

Michel Lussier, B.A. environmental design 1983 (Left:) Student project: modular telephone, Mutaphone, 1983 Teachers: Georges Adamczyk and Jean-Pierre Hardenne. (Right:) Recent Project: World’s Fastest and Lightest Sprint Shoe, Adizero Prime, Adidas AG, 2012

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DESIGN

“EXPLORE THE PAST, CONFRONT THE PRESENT + IMAGINE THE FUTURE” Thanks to this unprecedented collection of posters, books, drawings, plans, illustrations, models, objects, prototypes, furniture, and videos, the public will be able to explore the exceptional diversity of design practices and the importance of design in our everyday lives.

1999 to 2008. Founder-donor of the Société des designers graphiques du Québec’s annual student poster competition, he now devotes his professional activities to publishing books, producing and curating exhibitions, and lecturing on the graphic arts.

“Parcours explores the past, confronts the present, and imagines the future. Our team took on the challenge of creating an archeology of the school by uncovering unique student projects and artifacts,” says Patrick Evans, Director of the Centre de design and co-curator of the exhibition.

“It’s a must-see exhibition to understand how design has accompanied the social, environmental, and technological transformations of the last fifty years.”

Éric Daoust graduated with a bachelor’s degree in environmental design from UQAM, and has maintained close ties with the École de design, serving as guest critic and lecturer. For over fifteen years, he has taught a 3rd-year workshop and passed on his expertise to future designers. At the same time, he continues his professional practice with Bosses design, focusing on projects such as trophy creation, country house design, ephemeral installations, and scenography for exhibitions in major Montreal museums.

What have they become? Quebec designers who graduated from the School of Design who inspire us!

Among those featured are Alain Carle, of Atelier Carle, renowned for his works of residential architecture; Ying Gao, internationally renowned fashion designer and professor at the School of design; Marie-Josée Lacroix, the City of Montreal’s first design commissioner; Philippe Lamarre, founder of Urbania; Denis Lapointe, head of design at Bombardier Recreational Products; Catherine Lebrun, director of product design at lululemon; and Melissa Mongiat, co-founder of Daily tous les jours, a design studio well known to Montrealers for its swings in the Quartier des spectacles.

A tribute wall and a library A “tribute wall” celebrates the contributions of nearly 700 faculty members and employees of the School of design.

Anecdotes and artifact descriptions reveal key moments from the school’s history.

The exhibition also evokes the memory of several important members of the teaching staff who left their mark on the careers of a large number of graduates.

A library is also available to the public.

More than 200 works illustrating the excellence of the research carried out at the school can be consulted on site.

These works are made accessible in large part through close collaboration with the UQAM Library Service and donations from professors.

About the curators

Patrick Evans is director of the Centre de design, architect and professor at UQAM’s École de design. Since 2014, he has directed the N360 Northern Design Lab, where his research projects focus on the relationship between design, climate, and energy in northern environments. He is co-founder of the MEDIUM design collective and laureate of the Ronald J. Thom Award from the Canada Council for the Arts. [ V ]

Marc H. Choko is Professor Emeritus at the École de design de l’UQAM, where he taught from 1977 to 2018. He was director of research at INRS Urbanisation, Culture et Société from 1985 to 2005, and he directed the Centre de design de l’UQAM from

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Scarf – €64.90, Shades – €165 052

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AUTUMN MOOD P H OTO G R A P H Y : M AT T H E W B S P I T E R I STYLING: ROBERT WALKER MAKE UP ARTIST: NICOLA POWELL MODEL: CELINE ANCHETTI HAIR: VANUSIA HAIR DESIGN CLOTHING: TOMMY HILFIGER

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Blazer €279.90 Hat €89.90 Sunglasses €150

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Cropped Trench €249.90, Cardigan €249.90 Dress €169.90, Cap €49.90, Shoes €146.90

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Denim Jacket €169.90 Denim Pants €129.90 Jumper €169.90 Boots €249.90

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Trench €299.90 Striped Jumper €169.90 Shirt €99.90 Pants €149.90

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Hat €79.90, Blazer €398.90 Shirt €119.90, Scarf €104.90 Dress €249.90, Belt €59.90

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[ PUSHING BOUNDARIES ]

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“CELEBRATING THE EMOTIONAL RESONANCE & ENDLESS POTENTIAL OF SOFT MATERIALS IN GLOBAL DESIGN”

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extile Design Now features 23 compelling works from women textile artists and designers hailing from fourteen different countries, including Austria, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, Kazakhstan, Mexico, the Netherlands, Norway, Senegal, Singapore, Sweden, Taiwan, and the United States. This exhibition offers a unique opportunity to discover previously unseen pieces, showcasing the innovative spirit of women in textile design.

The featured artists are pushing the boundaries of textile practices through a variety of mediums and techniques, including weaving, 3D printing, sound-generating textiles, solar textiles, bacterial dyeing, and even the creation of replacement organs woven by silkworms. The exhibition’s spatial arrangement reflects

the intricate relationship between tradition and innovation, emphasizing the emotional resonance of soft materials.

“The exhibition will be an opportunity to discover the remarkable work of women designers over the past century, especially the exceptional contributions of today’s women in textile production,” says Louise Pelletier.

Fabienne Münch adds, “Soft materials are part of everyday life in cultures and societies across the globe. They are an inexhaustible source of inspiration and innovation. We are delighted to present this exhibition, celebrating women artists and designers who are passionate about materials.” >>

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“TEXTILE DESIGN NOW BROUGHT TOGETHER 23 VISIONARY WOMEN TEXTILE ARTISTS FROM FOURTEEN COUNTRIES, REDEFINING TEXTILE ART THROUGH INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES” Katharina Sand emphasizes the importance of textile practices, stating, “They embody craftsmanship and ingenuity. Their socio-cultural, economic, and political impact is profound, while their aesthetics and tactility shape our everyday experience of the world.”

The exhibition not only highlights the talents of individual artists but also serves as a platform for dialogue about the

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future of textile design. It invites visitors to reflect on how these innovative practices can address contemporary issues such as sustainability and cultural identity. By showcasing the diverse backgrounds and perspectives of the artists, Textile Design Now aims to inspire a new generation of designers to explore the potential of textiles as a medium for expression and change.

Featured Artists Among the talented artists featured in the exhibition are A+N Studio (Alissa van Asseldonk & Nienke Bongers), Yosi Anaya, Micheline Beauchemin, Estelle Bourdet, Felecia Davis, Aïssa Dione, Cécile Feilchenfeldt, Carla Hemlock, and many more. Each artist brings a unique voice and perspective to the exhibition, reflecting the rich tapestry of experiences that shape the world of textile design today. [ V ]

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BEAUTY

AS WE EMBRACE THE ARRIVAL OF AUTUMN, IT’S TIME TO LET YOUR MAKEUP MIRROR THE RICH, EARTHY TONES OF THE SEASON. WITH 2025 ON THE HORIZON, SEPTEMBER 2024 FASHION WEEK HAS GIVEN US A GLIMPSE INTO THE BEAUTY SHIFTS AHEAD. HAVING WORKED IN THE MAKEUP INDUSTRY FOR 25 YEARS, I’VE SEEN TRENDS COME AND GO, BUT THIS AUTUMN’S LINEUP OFFERS AN EXCITING FUSION OF NOSTALGIA AND MODERNITY. FROM FLUSHED RED BLUSH TO SMUDGED EYELINER, THE BEAUTY WORLD IS STEERING TOWARD EFFORTLESS CHIC WITH A TOUCH OF RETRO GLAM.

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[AUTUMN GLAM ‘24] This season’s trends by Nicola Powell

HERE’S HOW TO STAY AHEAD OF THE CURVE, WHETHER YOU’RE A MAKEUP NEWBIE OR A BEAUTY CONNOISSEUR. Cool-Toned Eyeshadow Meets Earthy tones: This fall, expect refreshing neutral, cooltoned eyeshadows paired with an earthy palette. These shades ranging from slate greys to cool browns bringing a soft sense of depth and mystery to the eyes, making them the perfect fall statement.

The Return of the ‘90s: The ’90s lip revival is back in full force. Brown lip liners paired with neutral shades are reclaiming their spotlight. This understated look is both nostalgic and current, offering the ultimate balance between bold definition and soft, muted tones.

Goodbye Harsh Contours, Hello Soft Sculpting: Heavy contouring is officially out. Instead, soft sculpting is taking center stage, with creambased bronzers and blushes working together to subtly enhance your natural bone structure. Think barely-there contouring that let your skin’s natural warmth shine through.

The Quest for Glass Skin: Dewy, flawless skin continues to be a musthave. Glass skin a look that screams radiance and health continues to dominate the complexion game this season, blurring the line between skincare and makeup with its luminous finish.

Blurred Lips for Effortless Glam: K-beauty’s blurred lips trend has translated from the runways to everyday life. Achieve this dreamy, low-maintenance look by dabbing matte lipstick at the center of your lips, then gently smudging the edges for a soft, lived-in finish.

Minimalist Nude Eyes: Nude eyes are taking minimalism to new heights this season. Soft washes of nude or cool pink shadows create an effortless, fresh-faced look perfect for those who favor understated elegance.

Red Blush: A Bold Flush Thanks to industry legend Rose-Marie Swift, (Victoria secret angels mup artist) red blush is the breakout star of the season. It’s the secret to achieving that perfectly flushed, just-in-from-the-cold look that feels youthful and fresh.

Lived-In Eyeliner: Smudged, lived-in eyeliner was all over the runways this season, adding a rebellious edge to otherwise polished looks. This grunge-inspired trend, a subtle nod to the Y2K era, offers just the right amount of nonchalance to your autumn makeup routine.

This season is all about merging past trends with modern techniques, ensuring you’ll look effortlessly chic this autumn.

[...“FOR AN EFFORTLESSLY CHIC FALL LOOK, EMBRACE SOFT SCULPTING WITH CREAMBASED BRONZERS, BLEND COOL-TONED EYESHADOWS WITH EARTHY TONES, AND TRY SMUDGED EYELINER FOR A TOUCH OF RETRO GLAM.”...]

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GASTRONOMY

A CULINARY JOURNEY Passion, Tradition, and Innovation at Xara Catering

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Adrian Bonello, Executive Chef at The Xara Lodge and Xara Catering, is a chef deeply rooted in his passion for food, agriculture, and the art of creating exceptional dishes. His journey, both in the kitchen and the field, is one of dedication to fresh ingredients, cooking techniques, and respect for Maltese culinary traditions. With his hands-on approach to sourcing produce and leading a talented team, Chef Bonello crafts dining experiences that are as authentic as they are modern.

A Passion for Homegrown Produce At the heart of Adrian’s culinary philosophy is his commitment to using the freshest ingredients, many of which come directly from his own field and Xara Gardens.

Sustainability is an important focus for Adrian and the Xara team. They take pride in using produce from Xara Gardens, which is carefully planned in consultation with local farmers.

By growing seasonal vegetables and incorporating them into their menus, Adrian ensures that the team is not only serving the freshest food but also reducing their environmental impact.

This collaboration between the kitchen and local agriculture supports the community and promotes sustainability in every dish served.

The Versatility of Xara Catering Under Adrian’s leadership, Xara Catering has grown to become one of Malta’s most versatile catering services. From high-end gala dinners to elegant weddings and corporate conferences, the team handles an array of events with precision and style.

Whether serving canapés, designing elaborate buffets, or curating finedining experiences. This adaptability has allowed the business to thrive, providing impeccable service for intimate gatherings and grand banquets alike.

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Constant Evolution in Cuisine and Technique Though Xara Catering has always been known for its high standards, Adrian emphasises the importance of evolution in the kitchen. Over the years, the menus have continuously evolved, but the level of quality has remained consistently high. With the introduction of modern equipment and cutting-edge cooking techniques, Adrian and his team are able to innovate while maintaining the core values of excellence.

The blending of traditional culinary roots with modern influences allows them to push boundaries while staying true to the essence of Maltese cuisine.

Managing a High-Pressure Kitchen Running a kitchen as busy and large as The Xara Lodge’s can be incredibly demanding.

With a substantial brigade of chefs and

the responsibility of catering to large banquets, the kitchen operates at a high level of intensity. This pressure is amplified when catering functions outside of the Xara Lodge, but Adrian, together with Chef Kleaven and his team have perfected the art of staying calm, organised, and efficient.

Communication is key in their success, and the seamless cooperation between the different sections—larder, hot kitchen, and pastry—ensures that every event runs smoothly. Respect and teamwork are not only central to their kitchen culture but are also reflected in the exceptional service provided to guests.

Influences and Inspiration The creativity that defines Xara’s cuisine is fuelled by diverse culinary influences from around the world. Adrian’s team often incorporates these inspirations into unique food stalls, which offer guests a taste of

global flavours with a Maltese twist. These creative combinations elevate their events, offering memorable and dynamic dining experiences for guests.

Celebrating Maltese Cuisine For Chef Bonello, it’s essential to represent Malta through his cooking. Maltese cuisine holds a special place in his heart, as it’s a reflection of the island’s rich history and culture. Dishes like braised rabbit with garlic and thyme, snail ragout with Jerusalem artichoke, and fried octopus with olive oil, garlic, chilli, and herbs are some of his personal favourites. The robust flavours of Maltese cuisine are a testament to the island’s unique position in the Mediterranean, where its fruits and vegetables ripen with extraordinary flavour due to the island’s ideal climate.

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GASTRONOMY

In Chef Adrian’s view, Malta produces some of the finest ingredients, including honey, figs, olive oil, and summer fruits, which play an essential role in Maltese cuisine’s success. For him, cooking from the heart and using traditional techniques are the keys to unlocking the full potential of these ingredients.

A Festive Season to Remember As the festive season approaches, Chef Adrian, Chef Kleaven and his team are gearing up for an exciting array of events at The Xara Lodge. Guests can look forward to joyful celebrations, including staff parties and get-togethers, where delicious food and vibrant flavours will take centre stage. With Adrian at the helm, each event is sure to be filled with culinary delights that capture the spirit of the season.

In every aspect of his work, Adrian Bonello brings together passion, tradition, and innovation. His dedication to fresh, local ingredients and his commitment to excellence are reflected in the exceptional dining experiences at The Xara Lodge and beyond.

Whether you’re savouring a Maltese classic or indulging in a modern creation, the heart and soul of Adrian’s cooking is always present. [ V ]

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WELL-BEING

FROM

CLARITY

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[...“HAVE YOU EVER HAD THE NAGGING FEELING THAT SOMETHING JUST ISN’T RIGHT? OR, HAVE YOU EXPERIENCED AN ABRUPT SENSE OF CLARITY OR PEACE AFTER TAKING A DECISION? THIS ARTICLE EXPLORES WAYS OF HOW TO PIN POINT AND TRUST YOUR INNER SIGNALS”...]

Words: Claudia Debono

TO CALM FALL_‘24 ISSUE

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WELL–BEING

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his instinctual sense, often called our “gut feeling, is the innate ability to “just know” something without conscious thought, guiding us toward understanding through feelings rather than facts.

Intuition communicates in subtle ways, often arriving as a small, persistent voice that becomes clearer when we’re calm and reflective. As we become more in tune with ourselves, it’s easier to recognize and trust these signals.

Developing the skill to trust our intuition is possible, and the more we listen, the stronger and more reliable it becomes.

So, how does intuition feel? It shows up differently for everyone but often manifests as physical sensations. You may experience butterflies or a slight nausea, an increased heart rate, muscle tension, or a feeling of calmness, tightness, or even sinking in your chest. Sometimes, intuition brings a flash of clarity or vivid dreams that reveal thoughts or solutions we weren’t consciously aware of. Paying attention to these signals is key to deepening our understanding of how intuition works.

Awareness of your body’s responses is the first step in developing a stronger intuition. Self-awareness allows us to notice and interpret these sensations. By becoming familiar with your emotions, behaviors, and reactions, you can start to differentiate between true “gut feelings” and impulses driven by stress or past trauma. For some, this may require practice, as we’re often taught to ignore instinct and prioritize reason and logic. However, suppressing intuition can limit our capacity to understand ourselves and navigate the world effectively.

How to Sharpen Your Intuition Keep a Journal Start by journaling your feelings, noting specific situations, and your physical and emotional responses. Ask yourself why you felt a certain way—were you reminded of a past experience, or did something trigger a fear or joy? This process will help you identify patterns over time, giving you a clearer sense of your intuition’s voice.

Check in with Yourself Regularly Throughout the day, take moments to observe your heart rate, breathing, and any areas of tension. Pause and ask yourself: What message is my intuition sending me? By practicing this check-in, you’re reinforcing your connection to your inner voice.

Sharpening your intuition requires patience and a commitment to tuning into yourself. Although modern culture often values logic and analysis over natural responses, our gut instincts are valuable tools. They guide us toward better decisions and help us respond authentically. Trusting your intuition allows you to move through life with greater confidence, presence, and self-assurance. So, stay aware of your body and environment—your intuition has much to offer if you’re willing to listen. [ V ]

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OPINION

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[ Equality!?... ] towards risk taking, while the other is not. One has won the genetic lottery and has the opportunity to grow up and make a living off sport, music, their looks. On what terms would you say that the two are equal?

quality (noun) the state of being equal, especially in status, rights, or opportunities. That’s a very messy explanation of the word. Very misleading. Cause for lots of misinterpretation and frustration.

Then we get to the worst aspect of the push for equality – the assumption that all should be forced to want the same thing.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a couple (married or otherwise, with or without children) deciding that she alone will be the breadwinner and he will manage the home. Likewise, there is nothing wrong with them both agreeing to be a traditional family. Or anything in between or outside of the box. ‘She’ does not have to WANT to be a mother and have a career. I’m specifying the female because the argument and pressure to be all things is on women far more than it is on men. Men have the bulk of the pressure to keep finances flowing but that’s a different discussion for a different day. If he needs to work a 65-hour week to make ends meet or to have the luxuries they enjoy, society will not say that there is anything wrong with him barely knowing his children.

It gives the impression that all people are, or should be equal. It seems to be the aim of many who push for equality. Equality of opportunity is a great concept, and all who push for that, genuinely push for equality OF OPPORTUNITY have my utmost respect. Equality of outcome, however, is dependent on effort. The year is 2015 and a hundred people given €100,000 each as a starting point would be considered to have some form of equality. If those hundred people did the exact same thing with their money they should all end up with the same result, whatever that may be, and again they could be considered equal.

If ninety nine of those people chose to spend their money on travelling, a nice car and a deposit on a property they would, for the most part, be considered equal still. If the one outlier decided to invest the €100,000 in Bitcoin they would have bought roughly 232 bitcoin. That would today be worth €14 million-ish.

Equality should only look at outcome when the same effort has been made. None of those 99 would have any reasonably argument to complain about the millions they did not make. They did not take the same risk, or sacrifice. When equality argues that a man and a woman working the same job should get the same pay, that’s something that should be so basic and obvious it’s not even up for discussion.

If, however, she has used the same time more productively and her outcome is better than his, why should his salary be the same as hers? Of course there are a million (mostly subjective) criteria that may be used to determine outcome, but that’s so situation-specific that it’s not worth elaborating further.

So the lack of focus on equality of opportunity in most arguments favouring equality is my first pet peeve.

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“EQUALITY SHOULD FOCUS ON OPPORTUNITY, NOT OUTCOME. WE PROGRESS BECAUSE OF OUR DIFFERENCES, NOT BECAUSE WE ARE ALL THE SAME.” The second is the assumption that all are equal to start off with. That’s an absurd starting point. Let’s ignore the obvious differences between, for example, the only child of a tech billionaire and the ten children of a subsistence farmer.

Let’s assume we’re talking about two children from the same family with no major parenting preferences. The same family wealth, the same health, the same opportunities. One may have a tendency

The beauty of the human race is its diversity. The ability to come together, gathering life experiences from around the globe and reaching a better tomorrow.

How can that ever happen if the aim is for everyone to have the same, when we don’t start off the same and don’t want to end up in the same place? We get further because of our differences, not because we are all equal. How well would a football team with 11 goalkeepers fare? How well would a factory with no managers, or no floor workers fare?

So please, next time you hear somebody speaking about equality in a generic term, point out to them that it’s equality of opportunity that should be the aim, nothing more.

Words: Charlie De Costa

Proudly Maltese.

Proudly Yours.

Letizia Vella CHEF PATRON

MeDirect Bank (Malta) plc, company registration number C34125, is licensed by the Malta Financial Services Authority to undertake the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371) and investment services under the Investment Services Act (Cap. 370).

OPINION

Words: Kevin Chase

[ THE POWER OF NO ]

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tired grandparents and technology. And their parents both need to work to make ends meet. Because not everybody is on the same income scale, and property and rental prices are immune to gravity.

o. It’s a difficult word to say as a parent. You start off with grand dreams about how you are going to raise your children differently to all those other kids you see at restaurants with a tablet.

As a well-adjusted, emotionally stable, adult who’s faced the world and come out stronger you can put your foot down and say, no, I don’t need to give this to myself and my family, because it is not needed.

Giving this material item will take away too much that can not be replaced – quality time with my family. But when you do that, you fall behind. Your child has less than others. And that’s what bullies will prey on. Bullies that are now present in so many more places, thanks to the same technology you should not leave your kids without. What’s your choice?

Then the world gets in the way of your dreams and judgement and next thing you know you’re at a restaurant and your child is throwing a tantrum because you forgot to charge their tablet.

No. It all starts with the word no. No, you don’t need to have all the things that every perfect family on social media has. Every one of those perfect families is deceiving.

You see just the good - the holidays, the filtered photos, the sunny days. You don’t see the struggles, the disagreements, dark clouds, the debts, the lies. Some are lucky enough and had the right opportunities, capital and willpower to succeed financially. Often at the cost of a first marriage.

When you can say no to that thing others have but you don’t need you can reclaim the balance you want. Because the bills don’t stop coming, wages aren’t rising, and there are bad months too. So, it follows that both parents need to work, not because they both want to but because they both need to. So, you work from home, with your kids present, but you are not.

And when children see you skipping adverts they learn to do so too. When they ask to watch that same video again you don’t say no. Why would you when you can? Children don’t learn to wait. To be bored and entertain themselves. So, when they want something, the answer is yes, and when it’s a rare no the tantrum is so bad that no becomes yes. And that’s when the greenlight is given for every parenting decision to be negotiable.

Technology is the short-term solution to get to the end of the day, but it is also a necessity in the current and future world.

The good news is that not all screen time is

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“THE IMPORTANCE OF ‘NO’: A GENERATION RAISED WITHOUT IT STRUGGLES WITH ENTITLEMENT AND INSTANT GRATIFICATION, MISSING THE RESILIENCE THAT ‘NO’ BUILDS.” bad. You can monitor and restrict what and how much your children watch.

You can look at kids with tablets in restaurants and judge their parents. But those kids can no longer run around and entertain themselves in the streets. They can no longer climb trees. Their time needs to be filled with after-school activities,

Now, finally onto the real point of this piece. The importance of the word no. An entire generation (in some parts of the world at least) is growing up barely hearing the word. What they want they feel entitled to, and most likely will get. A lifetime of instant gratification makes it that much harder to please, and having anything you want on demand will only make it easier to feel entitled. But what is the thing you tell yourself most as a parent? That’s right.

No. No I will not go to sleep when my son needs me to rock him to sleep, walking bare-chested around the living room for four hours in winter because nothing else soothes him. No, I will not replace my car, because I want to give my child this, that or the other to set them up for the future.

No. A million times a day, without a second thought.

But how can these children, to whom the word no is alien, grow up and say no to something they want? How can they wait to have something, or not have it at all, because there’s not enough income to go around, or not enough hours in the day.

And how can they put their child first if they don’t first hear the word no, and that no remains a no?

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