Saddle Up Magazine September 2026

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All Breeds All Equestrians

Sept 2026

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Executive Editor & Publisher Tass Co-Editor & Head of Design Ruby Graphic Graphic Production Post Stallione & Neigh Sayer Office Wrangler Adrian Founder Nancy Roman MAIN OFFICE TOLL FREE 1-866-546-9922 ads@saddleup.ca hello@saddleup.ca SADDLEUP.CA MAILING ADDRESS Saddle Up magazine PO Box 371 Armstrong, BC, Canada V0E 1B0 Published and Printed In Canada Publications Mail Reg. No. 40045521 GST Reg. No. 751444159RT0001 ISSN No. 1701-6002 © All Rights Reserved SUBSCRIPTIONS $29.00 CDN Inlc tax per year $49 US per year (11 issues)

Reproduction of any materials without written permission from the editor is prohibited. Opinions and statements expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor.

CONTENTS ON THE COVER COVER PHOTO

By Saddle Up Magazine

10

ISSUE GRAPHICS

By Saddle Up with Tarp Designs

CONTRIBUTORS

Mad Barn Canada, Nicola Cocorocchio, Sloane Hammond, Laureen James, Cody Braaten, Patricia Skinner-Porter, Britain Mills-Dawes, HCBC News, Club Hub with BCHBC Stories, and HWAC News

18 04

14

21

How to Choose the Best Mineral

6

Love Without Prescriptions

8

The Future is Bright at Thunderbird

10

Rein in the Risk

14

Learning to Long Line

18

Learning to Rope with Cody Braaten

21

The Freedom of Trailering!?

22

Is Your Horse Jacked or Just Tense?

24

Feeding Fido According to…

25

Looking Forward to Fall

26

Club Hub

27

Before You Load

28

Clubs & Association Listings

29

Business Services

30

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How to Choose the Best Mineral Supplement for Your Horse

By Jaime Thomas, BSc

Reviewed by Dr. Priska Darani, PhD, PAS, and Dr. Cerah Boyer, MSc, DVM Balanced vitamin and mineral nutrition is critical to maintaining your horse’s health and well-being. Research shows forage-only equine diets are deficient in key minerals, most commonly sodium, copper, and zinc.

This is why all horses need a source of vitamins and minerals to meet their daily nutrient requirements for overall health and wellness.

What to Look for in an Equine Mineral Supplement Concentrations of vitamins and minerals vary in pasture and forage. A wellformulated equine mineral supplement should provide a wide range of nutrients, including those that are consistently lacking across different types of forage.

Characteristics of a reliable mineral supplement include: High levels of key ingredients like zinc, copper, and selenium No added iron High-quality organic minerals The best way to know what minerals your horse needs added to their diet is to get a hay analysis and submit your horse’s feeding program for evaluation. This will show you which nutrients are missing from their diet so you can balance their feeding program.

QR code for requesting a hay analysis from Mad Barn.

The macrominerals that horses need in their diets are the following: Calcium (Ca) Phosphorus (K) Magnesium (Mg) Potassium (K) Sulfur (S) Sodium (Na) Chloride (Cl) Trace minerals or microminerals are required in much smaller quantities than macrominerals. The requirements for these essential nutrients are stated in terms of parts per million (mg per kg of feed).

The microminerals that are most important in the equine diet include: Iodine Copper Iron Zinc Selenium Manganese Cobalt General recommendations from the National Research Council are based on the minimum amounts required to avoid symptoms of deficiency and may not necessarily reflect the amounts required to support optimal well-being.

Organic vs. Inorganic Minerals Mineral supplements for horses use either organic or inorganic forms of trace minerals.

Generally, supplements using organic trace minerals are of higher quality and work better than supplements using inorganic ingredients.

Minerals Required in the Equine Diet Mineral requirements for your horse change depending on age, reproductive status, and activity level. The minerals that must be supplied in the equine diet can be divided into macrominerals and trace minerals (or microminerals).

Macrominerals are minerals required in the horse’s diet in larger amounts. The quantities required are usually represented as a percentage of total dry matter in the diet or as grams per kilogram of feed.

06

Organic minerals are closer to the form naturally found in the equine diet. Inorganic trace minerals are used in many feeds because they are cheaper and easier to produce, but research shows that organic minerals are better absorbed and more readily usable by the horse’s body than inorganic ones.

supplement with fewer fillers and higher levels of nutrient fortification. In addition to supplying your horse with adequate levels of required nutrients, it’s also important to pay attention to the ratios between certain nutrients, such as the calcium to phosphorus ratio and the zinc-copper-iron ratio. A well-formulated vitamin and mineral supplement should balance your horse’s overall diet.

Omneity Mad Barn’s Omneity® is a comprehensive vitamin and mineral supplement for horses that provides a full profile of the nutrients required to support optimal health. It was created by looking at thousands of samples of hay and grain diets to find out which nutrients horses usually don’t get enough of. Omneity® is made with 100% organic trace minerals and is designed to balance most equine feeding programs. It also supplies essential amino acids, digestive enzymes, active yeast cultures, and complete B-vitamin fortification, including a nutritionally effective level of biotin to support hoof health.

The best way to know which vitamins and minerals to supplement in your horse’s diet is to work with a qualified equine nutritionist to help you analyze your feeding program and your forage to identify nutrient gaps and imbalances.

Concentrated Mineral Supplements For horses on a forage-based diet or horses receiving low levels of concentrated grains, nutritionists recommend feeding a concentrated vitamin and mineral

As Canada’s leader in equine nutrition science, Mad Barn thanks Saddle Up for featuring this story. To read the full version of this article, visit https:// madbarn.ca/mineral-supplements-for-horses/

Love

Without Prescriptions How Milly Guided Me to Natural Healing

By Nicola Cocorocchio When you hear the words “kidney disease” in connection with your horse, the ground drops out from under you. It’s a diagnosis that feels entirely out of your control, a looming shadow that leaves you searching desperately for any light. For Milly, my once-vibrant heart horse, that diagnosis meant watching chronic discomfort try to steal her spark. But love doesn’t surrender to a prognosis. It adapts, it listens, and it looks for healing in places modern textbooks sometimes overlook.

We often look to our horses for strength, but there are times when the roles must reverse. Milly needed me to help her navigate the heavy toll of kidney disease. The systemic pain began to show up in every muscle, every step, and every sigh. That necessity opened a door to a new world of holistic care, leading me down a path of gentle bodywork, aromatic relief, and supportive kinesiology that changed not only Milly’s final chapter but forever changed how I listen to the horse.

When traditional painkillers like Bute or Banamine are off the table due to compromised kidneys, you are left staring at a helpless wall. Because you cannot medicate the kidney back to health, you have to find a way to ease the nervous system’s stress response so the horse’s body can stop fighting itself. What changed the conversation from treating pain to releasing accumulated brace was finding The Masterson Method®, an interactive form of equine bodywork and massage, using light touch and gentle movement to help a horse release deep core tension and pain. It didn’t just give me a new set of physical techniques; it completely dismantled how I perceived touch. I realized I had been trying to “fix” her body from the outside in, when what she needed was someone to help her release the tension from the inside out.

I soon learned how to look for the subtle “bracing”—the soft eye blink.

The lower lip droops, the big, shuddering release of a horse finally letting go of chronic tension. Working along the bladder meridian (a key energy and nervous system pathway), I wasn’t forcing change; I was waiting for her nervous system to invite me in. Seeing Milly let go of built-up tension was nothing short of miraculous. The relaxation she experienced was often mistaken as “sedation” by people passing by in the barn.

Massage and Bodywork The bladder meridian technique with the method is an interactive bodywork exercise using an ultra-light touch (“air gap” pressure) to scan an animal’s body. By moving slowly along the bladder meridian line, a practitioner looks for subtle neurological responses to help the animal release accumulated muscle tension. The path of the meridian runs parallel to and just below the spine/top-line. It starts near, behind the eye/ear, traveling over the poll, neck, withers, back, and croup. Continues down the hind leg and out toward the lower pastern or outside toe.

For Milly, incorporating essential oils and the equine Raindrop Technique became a sacred part of her routine. While bodywork helped unlock the physical brace, the intentional application of pure, therapeutic-grade oils along her spine offered a deeply grounding layer of relief.

08

The Raindrop Technique uses a series of specifically chosen essential oils with gentle feather strokes to work the oils in sequence down the back and along the bladder meridian. Milly really loved this therapy. Her head would drop, her eyes softening and closing as the oils settled into her coat and skin. I knew she was finding a moment of deep restorative peace in a body that often felt at war with itself.

Kinesiotherapy Tape

The tape microscopically lifts the skin to decompress the tissue beneath, promoting blood and lymphatic circulation—a vital helper for a body struggling to filter waste and reduce pain signals.

Whether I was taping her back for structural support or along her hindquarters to ease the ache of shifting weight, it allowed her to move with less effort and more confidence, offering comfort that worked quietly around the clock.

Taping applications over the lumbar/kidney area: In horses,

it is typically used to manage lower back stiffness, soreness, or compensatory tension along the topline. I used Equi-Tape® which microscopically lifts the skin to stimulate sensory receptors, encourage localized circulation, and provide non-restrictive feedback to the underlying fascia and muscles.

Taping Applications and Considerations Anatomical focus:

Essential oils speak a language the nervous system understands instantly, bypassing the gut and working directly with her senses and energy, turning a clinical necessity into a deeply bonding ritual of love and relief. I use Young Living® oils, and some that were most beneficial for Milly during this time I have listed below.

The true equine kidneys sit deep in the sub-lumbar fossa (further forward and higher up than many realize), so back taping in this region primarily targets the longissimus dorsi, psoas, and thoracolumbar fascia rather than the organ itself. Tension levels: Use very light or zero stretch (0% to 15%) on the middle portion of the tape for pain relief and relaxation and absolute zero stretch on the anchor ends.

Essential Oils

Valor (blend), often called the “chiropractor in a bottle”; this blend is applied to balance electrical energies and instill a sense of calm.

Oregano and thyme, these powerful single oils, are traditionally

used to stimulate the immune system. When a horse’s filtering organs (the kidneys) are compromised, supporting microbial balance and systemic load is crucial.

Cypress, is highly beneficial for supporting circulation and strengthening blood capillaries and discouraging fluid retention.

Wintergreen, contains a high percentage of naturally occurring methyl salicylate (similar to plant-based aspirin), making it a powerful natural analgesic for soothing discomfort.

Basil, helps melt away deep muscle tension along the spine.

Aroma Siez (blend), a combination specifically formulated to relax

tight, fatigued, or overworked muscles. Peppermint, applied last, acts as a catalyst, driving all the other oils deeper into the tissue while offering a cooling, refreshing sensation to the nervous system.

If the bodywork and essential oils were the moments of active release, kinesiotherapy tape was the invisible hand that held Milly together long after my physical work was done. When you are managing chronic kidney disease, the systemic strain doesn’t clock out when the grooming session ends; it lingers in weakening posture, tight top-lines, and overworked compensation muscles.

This application gave me a way to extend relief for Milly.

It has been three years since Milly took her final breath, leaving behind a silence in the barn that took a very long time to soften.

Kidney disease stole her from me far too soon, but it could never touch the profound education she left behind in my hands and my heart. Because I had to learn how to listen when words and traditional drugs failed, I became a Masterson Method® Certified Practitioner in 2025, something I am very proud of. Milly forced me to slow down, to feel beneath the surface, and discover the quiet, alternative ways we can heal our horses. She was my heart horse, my greatest teacher, and my truest guide. She walks with me into every barn, every stall, living on through every horse I now have the privilege of helping find comfort and peace—that is Milly’s living legacy.

Photos were taken by Nicola Cocorocchio Nicola Cocorocchio is a MMCP Equi-Verde Therapies Canadian Advisor, Healing Barn Movement. You can contact her at nicola.cocorocchio@gmail.com 09

t h g i r B s i e r u t u F e h T At

k r a P w o h S d r i b r e Thu nd

Riders from across Canada, the United States, and beyond come to Thunderbird Show Park to compete throughout the season. From local riders and horses gaining experience to international-level competitors, Thunderbird brings together riders at all stages of the sport.

Located in Langley, British Columbia, Thunderbird Show Park began with the vision of Dianne and George Tidball, who hosted their first show in 1972, a Quarter Horse show with team roping. Over the following decades, they continued to build Thunderbird, eventually developing the current show park today.

This year, the Tidball family stepped away from their role as owners, with Dana and Laurel Matheson taking over the reins. The Langley couple, with deep roots in the local community and sports, have come onboard committed to not only preserving the show venue but also to keeping it moving forward.

Dianne Tidball was once quoted as saying, “I want people to wonder as they drive through our entrance gates—what’s new and improved at Thunderbird this year?”

With the Mathesons now at the helm, that wonderment takes on new meaning as they begin to look ahead at what comes next for the park.

During the recent Summer Fort Classic, we sat down with Dana Matheson to talk about the experience he wants people to have at Thunderbird, how the property could be used beyond the show season, and opportunities for riders who are still developing.

The tbird Experience For Matheson, the experience people have when they arrive at Thunderbird is an important part of the park. “I hope they feel like they’re very welcomed. One of the things Chris Pack, the president and CEO, and the staff do here is prioritize the feeling of hospitality. I want everyone who comes here to feel right at home. That’s a big part of what makes this place so special. Making sure everyone feels welcome, the kids get their ribbons, and all the details are taken care of. It’s very important.”

Looking Ahead: growing the park and the sport means looking at what more can be done at the park and within the sport. “I’ve grown up in this community, and my wife and I are on the same page with things. She looks after the horse side of the business, and my mind always goes to, ‘What more can we do here to really put this place on the map? ‘How can we grow the sport?’

From all the other sports I’m involved in, there’s so much we can do at the grassroots level.”

“Since we’ve taken over, we’ve had so many people visit the facility and say, ‘Wow, I’ve never been here before. I’ve driven by a thousand times, and I’ve never been in.’ We want to welcome those people in.” Part of that means finding more ways to use the property throughout the year.

11

The Timberwood Pavilion will soon be available for events year-round. “In October, we’ll be adding glass so the windows can stay open in the summer and during the winter months the building can be usable.”

Some additional renovations and upgrades will also be taking place. The venue will be available for winter events, including Christmas parties, galas, and conferences, with the ability to host up to 400 people.

Weddings are also being considered.

“Somewhere on the property we’re looking for the right spot to host weddings. A lot of people inquire about that.”

As the Mathesons settle into their new role, what is clear is their commitment to the equestrian community and to carrying forward Thunderbird’s heritage and legacy while navigating the tide of the future.

The park is also expanding its use as a venue for entertainment. Tbird is hosting its first Summer Sound-Off concert, with Canadian country music artists Brett Kissel and Chad Brownlee. “We’re going to do one big concert each summer. Ticket sales are going really well, and it’s an amazing venue for a concert.”

September will get underway with the September Series, Harvest Celebration, and CSI2* BCHJA Fall Finale. If you’re local and not competing, it’s a great time to head down to the show park and watch the action. For those farther away, select classes will also be streamed on TBird TV, making it easy to follow along from home.

Creating Opportunities for Developing Riders

To learn more about Thunderbird Show Park’s upcoming events and shows, visit tbird.ca and follow @thunderbirdshowpark on Facebook and Instagram.

While some of the changes are about bringing new uses to the property, Matheson also sees opportunities to grow the sport at the community level. Tbird recently announced its G.R.O.W. Series, giving developing riders and horses an opportunity to gain valuable mileage in a more relaxed show environment than the larger summer tournaments.

“We’re going to host shows in a new winter series. Shows will run from October to March.” The series will provide an option for greener horses and riders, with riders able to collect points and compete for series awards. “I think that’s important to the sport because I feel like it can be the first step to showing at tbird.”

Collaboration and working together is a key component to the future of any sport.

“We’re partners. I own a couple of hockey teams, and we have 20 governors who sit around a table at four meetings a year.

We come together and share ideas. We have weekly calls, and every team has a representative. We ask ourselves, ‘What worked in this arena? What do you do in your community?’ We share ideas because like the saying goes, ‘A rising tide lifts all boats.’” “That’s the way forward. If we care about our league, we want everyone to be successful.”

In todays world exposure and collaberation also have pivotal roles in how the sport reaches people outside the equestrian community. “Anything that shines a spotlight on the sport is important. We want content that is exciting to watch.

People don’t always know who the (toplevel) riders are. It’s a niche sport. Those are the things we need to do to try and grow the sport. We have to work together.”

12

“For tbird, the future is bright. We’re going to put our heart and soul into it. We’re honoured to be able to carry the torch for the next decades and generations. We’ll keep doing upgrades, and every year when people come back, we want them to see new offerings. We’ll keep moving the needle.”

Dana and Laurel Matheson

Photos provided by Thunderbird Show Park.

Photo Credits P1-LH: Laura Jane Tidball & MacGyver Photo by Kim Gaudry Photography P1-Middle: Photo by Kim Gaudry Photography P1-RH: Photo by Kady Dane Photography P1-Bottom: Thunderbird Showpark P2-Top: Nicole Bourgeois & Vino Bianco Photo by Viola Mitchell Photography P2-Middle: Conor Swail Photo by Kim Gaudry Photography P2-Bottom: Conor Swail & Kazelli VDL Photo by Kim Gaudry Photography P3-Middle: Photo by Viola Mitchell Photography P3-Bottom: Kyle King & Ninja BF Photo by Kim Gaudry Photography

The G.R.O.W. Series gives developing riders and horses more opportunities to learn, compete, and get experience over the winter. Here are the series dates to bookmark!

Oct. 24–25 | Costume Class Nov. 14–15 | Teams of 3 Derby Jan. 16–17 | Relay Course Feb. 13–14 | Gambler’s Choice Mar. 12–14 | Hunt & Go

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Rein in the Risk Keeping New Riders Safe

By Sloane Hammond

There are many things that we can do to reduce injuries to new riders and the horses they ride by using appropriately sized, well-fitted equipment to reduce horse discomfort and increase rider safety. Here are some practical tips to help keep both new riders and their horses safe.

protection for a rider’s head. Helmets that have hit the ground may not protect riders’ heads in the same way a new helmet would, so avoid used helmets with unknown histories. Riding helmets have a five-year expiry date label, generally located on the inside of the helmet, this date is a guideline.

FOR THE RIDER

Reasons to replace your helmet early:

Note: when working around horses, the

If the helmet has been used daily, it will need to be replaced after two years.

Hair, Clothing, & Personal Safety

If the wearer has been in a crash and the helmet impacted something.

handler’s peripheral vision is important.

Braid or put long hair in a ponytail and hold back long bangs with clips or a thin, stretchy headband.

Avoid long and loose jewelry, these can become entangled in a horse’s mane, be torn out in a fall, or be caught by brush when trail riding.

Long-sleeved shirts made from a durable fabric protect riders from sunburn, horse nips, and road rash if they experience a fall.

Avoid hoodies that can obstruct peripheral vision when picking hooves or grooming the underbelly.

Long slacks, jeans, jodhpurs, or breeches with a flat or seamless inseam (not a thick flat-felled seam) will improve rider comfort in the saddle.

Helmets

A new, correctly fitted helmet is the best

If the helmet has been dropped on a hard surface.

If it has been exposed to temperature extremes.

If the fit of the helmet or harness is too loose or too tight.

Some helmet manufacturers offer crash replacement if a helmet has been damaged in a fall, but the manufacturer will require the purchase receipt, and a flat or prorated fee will be charged based on the remaining lifespan of the original helmet.

Boots & Gloves

Boots: Use sturdy boots with a 2–5 cm (1–2”) heel. The heel on the boot prevents riders’ feet from going through a stirrup and getting caught, so the height is important.

For English and Western riders, paddock boots or roper boots with gaiters or half

chaps prevent rubbing or pinching by the stirrup leather on the inside of the calf on an English saddle and injuries from brush and trees when trail riding in a Western saddle.

Gloves: Gloves are vital to keep hands

clean and protect the hands from minor injuries and rope burn.Leather gloves aren’t necessary, and tiny hands may not be strong enough to flex a leather glove. Additionally, fabric gloves with textured palms may provide a better grip than leather, are cooler for hot-weather riding, and can be thrown in the wash for cleaning.

Body Protection

Body protector vests reduce injury risk to the chest, ribs, abdomen, and internal organs in the case of a fall and are better at preventing penetrating injuries. Air vests provide similar protection as well as head and neck stabilization.

HORSE & EQUIPMENT

Choosing the Right Horse

In a perfect world, the horse would be sized so that the new rider can see over the horse’s back. This makes it easier for riders to halter, bridle, saddle, mount, and dismount the horse. Additionally, it can reduce a new rider’s fear of being too high or falling and makes it easier for riders to position their legs correctly.

Saddles

Saddles that have a deeper seat will help new riders stay in the saddle if they lose their balance.

English riders might use an all-purpose or dressage saddle.

Western riders might use a reining or cutting saddle, which also has low horns to make mounting and dismounting safer.

Barrel saddles are very secure but have a tall, narrow horn that can catch clothing or make mounting and dismounting challenging for new riders.

Wade saddles have a deep seat but have no swells and a wide horn not suitable for tiny riders to hold on to.

Roping reins, which are a bit longer than

barrel reins, are a good option, and barrel reins are be long enough on a pony. Do not knot roping or barrel reins. Use a shorter rein if they are too long. Split reins are difficult for new riders to organize and if dropped the horse can step on them.

Saddle Handles

English saddles need to be outfitted with a saddle handle. For tiny riders, many saddle handles are too long for them to be able to maintain their balance. To create a safer alternative for smaller riders, try a bit converter for a Pelham bridle and add a clip to each end to create a shorter saddle handle.

when purchasing.

Girth material: ones that are not made of leather are often less expensive and can be thrown in the washing machine for easy cleaning. Note neoprene girths can be very hot for the horse to wear during the summer months.

English girths should be long enough for a rider to do up easily and short enough to ensure full tightening.

Western cinches fit 7.5–10 cm (3–4”) above the horse’s elbow.

Cinches that are too long may cause girth galls (sores) or interfere with the rider’s leg position.

Bridles & Bits

Bridles: Need to be cleaned regularly to

Stirrups

prevent injury to sensitive facial tissue.

Remember to check all the stitching on bridles regularly to prevent surprise failures.

English Riders

Correctly sized English stirrups are no more than ½” (1 cm) wider than riders’ boots to prevent the foot from becoming trapped.

The peacock stirrup, which has a tough elastic band on the outside branch of the stirrup, is not as safe as modern safety stirrups that are hinged at the top on the outside branch of the stirrup. The hook on these stirrups can get caught on clothing and body parts when small riders slide off a horse that is tall.

Western Riders

Stirrups appropriately sized will be 2 cm (1”) wider than the boot. Aluminum safety stirrups with a rubber tread or trail-riding stirrups hinged at the top on the outside branch can provide additional safety.

Tapaderos (covers on the front of the stirrup) on correctly sized Western stirrups will prevent riders’ feet from becoming lodged in the stirrup.

Riders with a health condition need a medical ID bracelet or armband with a completed insert. Remember to include emergency contact numbers.

Extra Support for Young Riders

Saddles: Must fit both horse and rider.

Tiny English riders and tiny new-to-jumping riders need a hunting breastplate on the horse to hang on to while standing in their stirrups or jumping, as most neck straps do not sit close enough to the saddle for small riders to reach without pulling them out of position. Often by age 11 or 12, young riders are tall enough to use a neck strap or stirrup leather done up at the correct length from the saddle, again, so that it does not pull them out of position. Make sure the neck strap or stirrup leather is attached to the saddle in some way to prevent it from riding up the horse’s neck or rotating around the horse’s neck.

Medical ID

FOR THE HORSE

Saddle Fit & Padding

There are a variety of bit options for new riders to accommodate the horse’s very sensitive mouth.

For both English and Western riders, a mullen-mouth or straight-bar rubber, plastic, or stainless-steel snaffle is a great choice.

One of the most common causes of horse misbehaviour is poor saddle fit, and saddles not appropriately sized for the rider contribute to incorrect riding positions.

Sufficient padding: Gel pads, wool pads, or

similar will reduce back bumps if riders lose their balance. Ensure that padding doesn’t make the saddle fit worse. Spongy pads can make the saddle bounce, disturbing riders’ balance.

Girths & Cinches

Girths and cinches must be clean, soft, and comfortable for the horse to wear.

Reins

Dirty girths can cause girth galls that take weeks to heal.

bridle help riders to find and hold the correct rein length. Shorter reins are easier for new riders to use and prevent the horse from stepping through them if a rein is accidentally dropped. If reins are too long, securely knot them and undo the buckle to prevent riders from getting a foot caught in the loop.

Wide sternum, anatomic al and shoulder-relief girths and cinches are recommended to distribute the pressure on the sternum over a broader area.

Rainbow reins on an English or Western

Bits:

Elastic inserts on a girth or cinch, ideally on both sides, make it more comfortable.

Leather and mohair girths and cinches must be hand-washed, so consider this

For English riders on a horse that is less responsive, a straight (not broken), lowport mouth Kimberwicke (Kimblewick) or a Pelham with bit converters can be useful.

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horses. Use a halter and lead rope to catch the horse. Shortcuts can lead to frustration and injury. Tiny riders require an escort to catch horses that are housed in pairs or groups to avoid being mobbed and will need help with gates.

Haltering

1. Riders stand beside the throat-latch on the near (left) side.

2. Use both hands on either side of the noseband to place the halter over the horse’s muzzle.

3. Place the crown-piece as far up on the off (right) side as you can reach.

4. Use the left hand to catch the crownpiece above the horse’s poll.

For Western riders with the same type of horse, a short-shank sweet-iron mullen-mouth bit can help.

5. Do up the buckle or knot the rope of

a rope halter so that the noseband sits about 2 cm (1”) below the projecting cheekbones.

If riders stand in front of the horse to halter, the horse will not be able to see them, and if the horse startles, it may knock them to the ground.

Leading

1. Keep the lead line folded back and forth

across the hand and not circled around the hand so as to prevent hands from being crushed if the horse is too strong, spooks, or drags a rider to grass.

2. Lead the horse from the near (left) side.

3. Stand between the horse’s head and shoulder.

Always ensure that bits are smooth, as rubber and plastic mouth bits will become rough over time.

Extra Tips for Bridles n Bits

The thoughtful use of a correctly fitted Kineton noseband, which adds pressure to the horse’s nose when the reins are activated, can be considered for a horse that is less responsive and/or has a very sensitive mouth.

For a much less expensive and more readily available option than a Kineton, add a short brow-band from a pony or mini bridle attached to the cheekpieces where the noseband would fit instead of the noseband to split the rein weight between the horse’s mouth and face.

The use of rein elastics or flexi reins reduces discomfort in the horse’s mouth by adding an elastic insert to reins while riders are learning to maintain steady contact.

HANDLING THE HORSE Catching

Horses don’t always want to leave their companions and can swing their heads suddenly to check things out. So, remember: helmets on riders’ heads before halters on

4. Say “walk on” and lightly tug and release

the lead line forward under the horse’s chin. Continue to walk beside the horse in a position between the horse’s head and shoulder.

5. Keep a slight loop in the lead line between the hand and the halter to avoid a constant pull downward on the horse’s face.

6. The leader always turns the horse away from them.

7. Lightly tug and release the lead rope

toward the off (right) side and walk towards the horse’s face, making sure to stay behind the horse’s head.

8. Remember tiny or small riders with taller

horses may need assistance for leading if the top of their helmet is below the horse’s eyes.

9. New riders may require assistance to

negotiate the horse through gates, particularly if the horse is in a paddock with other horses.

10. It is very important to push gates away

from the horse to prevent the gate from closing on the horse’s barrel or flank, as this can cause horses to panic.

Tying the Horse: Tie with a slip knot, high and short enough that the horse cannot bite while being saddled, girthed, or cinched.

Grooming

Groom in the direction of hair growth and not against it.

At the very least, groom well the face, back, and girth areas to prevent bridle and saddle sores, as well as between the front and hind legs to prevent discomfort from skin rubbing together.

Brushing the horse and picking their hooves are important to check for injuries prior to riding, so the more thorough the grooming, the better to detect small issues before they get worse.

Watch your horses reaction while you groom, an uncomfortable horse will be, at the least, distracted and, at the most, reactive.

Saddling

When placing the saddle pad, start forward of the final placement and slide back to ensure all the hairs lay flat under the pad. English pads and numnahs attach to the saddle.

Ensure the girth or cinch placement is directly behind the horse’s elbows and tighten gradually.

To start, do the girth or cinch up so that it just touches the horse’s sternum.

Then tighten the girth or cinch a little on each side, 2–3 cm (1–1½”) at a time.

Tighten enough to prevent the saddle from moving, but not so tight that it restricts the horse’s breathing or leg movement.

Check the tightness just before mounting.

Check again after the horse has walked for a few minutes.

2. Use a mounting block to mount

the horse and eventually practice mounting from both sides. Ensure that the mounting block is tall enough for the rider and horse combination and is stable and/or heavy enough not to move while the rider mounts. This makes mounting much easier and keeps the horse more comfortable. Mounting from the ground adds pressure double the weight of the rider on the opposite side of the withers and may additionally lead to shoulder and spine issues.

Dismounting

1. Halt the horse and wait until the horse is standing quietly.

2. Remove both feet from the stirrups. In a Western saddle you may leave your left foot in the stirrup.

3. Stay centred above the saddle, lean

forward and swing the right leg over the horse’s hindquarters without touching the saddle cantle or horse with the knee or foot, and bring the right leg to a position beside the left leg. In a Western saddle this is the point when the rider removes the left foot from the stirrup.

4. Drop to the ground. Tiny riders require support to get to the ground so they do not fall under the horse when they hit the ground.

With the right preparation, equipment, and support, new riders can develop confidence and good habits while keeping themselves and their horses safer. Now that the new rider has arrived safely in the saddle, it’s time to enjoy the ride!

Tightening a girth too quickly can cause horses to react in unpredictable ways.

Bridling

Stand beside the horse on the near side at the throat-latch. Place the bit in the left hand and the crown-piece in the right.

Offer the horse the bit, but avoid forcing the bit into the horse’s mouth. Once the horse has accepted the bit, lift the crown-piece up over the horse’s ears, you can switch hands on the crown piece to cup the ears forward under the crown-piece.

Small riders will need assistance for bridling to keep both the horse and rider safe.

Mounting & Dismounting

Mounting 1. Prior to mounting lead the horse in 2–3

small circles away from the handler, then change sides and repeat in the opposite direction. This ensures that if there is a girth reaction, it happens before the horse is mounted.

Sloane Hammond operates Gryphon Hollow Farms and offers Simply Joyful Riding clinics. She has developed A-circuit hunters, national eventers, and jumpers and coached national Young Riders in dressage, eventing, and show jumping.

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Learning to Long Line:

English & Western

By Laureen James

The first time I saw a horse being long-lined, I was excited about the possibility of learning how to do it. I saw how elegance, simplicity, and harmony increased with every long line session a horse and handler had. Long lining can be used to teach or refine the aids and improve the natural gaits of a young horse. It can be used for starting young horses, rehabilitating horses after injuries, and furthering a horse’s athletic ability. All breeds of horses can be trained to longline.

Western trainers use a form of long lining called ground

driving to teach young horses how to go forward, turn, stop, and back up with lightness, calmness, and responsiveness. Driving teaches the youngster to be brave and go forward uninhibited by the weight and pressures of a rider. The handler learns to communicate with the horse with clarity using a minimum of simple verbal cues and body positioning.

English trainers use long lining to improve a horse’s

forwardness, collection, and self-carriage. They strive to get a horse into an uphill frame through anchoring the hindquarters with softness and suppleness. Advanced long lining maneuvers such as leg yields, shoulder fore, shoulder in, haunches in, half pass, piaffe, and passage can all be taught in the long lines before it is trained under saddle.

What is Long Lining?

Long lining involves using two lines (lunge lines or driving lines) attached to the bit to communicate with the horse in the same way a rider would to steer, stop, and back up and eventually move laterally. Think about how a carriage horse is driven. Long lining or ground driving is very similar. Many trainers use long lining skills as basic training for buggy horses.

Basic Ground Driving Equipment Horse

English saddle or western saddle or lunge surcingle Cotton rope or leather strap to tie the stirrups down English or Western bridle with snaffle bit Two long soft cotton lunge lines (without any knots)

Handler and Assistant

Leather gloves Running shoes or wide, flat-soled riding boots or cowboy boots

Safe Locations For Learning to Long Line Indoor arena Outdoor arena Round pen

*Never teach a horse to longline in an open field or near barbed-wire fencing.”

Basic Ground Driving Practice Without a Horse Punch in western gear.

Punch in a surcingle.

A Safe Way to Start: The easiest way to start to learn how to long line is to begin with an assistant holding the two snap ends of the long lines.

Have your assistant walk ahead of you about 15 to 20 feet while you walk along behind them as if they were the horse and you were ground driving them.

Practice what it feels like to turn and stop and then start by walking around the outer track of the arena. It takes some practice to get the feel of the weight and length of the lines and the distance between you and your assistant (horse).

After a couple rounds of practice, some shallow turns were made.

Then move into large 20m circles.

Practice stopping and starting using the voice commands you will use once you begin practicing with your horse. This is a valuable step for anyone who is new to ground driving or long lining.

Beginning to Ground-Drive the Horse

Punch making a turn.

Ground driving with a western saddle with an assistant.

Have your assistant lead the horse as you walk at a safe distance behind the horse. Use your voice command to ask the horse to walk forward. Your assistant will walk beside the horse using a lead shank to maintain control and give the horse direction and confidence.

Walk straight ahead around the perimeter of the arena.

Walk many laps, allowing the horse to become accustomed to the feeling of the lines around its legs and having a handler behind them (15-20 feet).

To start, do 20-minute sessions. Practicing walking forward in straight lines, stopping with a voice cue, and eventually backing with light hand pressure. Make sure you have taught your horse to back from the ground on the lead shank before asking it to back up in the long lines.

Eventually begin practicing shallow turns. Working on long lines will feel awkward at first for you and your horse, so don’t be in a rush. Use an assistant to lead the horse until you feel confident that your horse is relaxed and confident and that you are also feeling calm and confident.

Punch backing on the long lines.

Western ground driving and English long lining are effective training tools to help your horse develop correct muscling, begin training, train new maneuvers, work on specific training problems, or rehabilitate after an injury. Long lining will help you and your equine partner understand each other more confidently and clearly.

Now that you have mastered ground driving straight ahead and can perform shallow turns, it’s time to make directional turns. This is where ground driving can get a bit tricky for new long liners.

Long Lining Over Obstacles, Around Pylons and Out in Open Spaces

If a mishap occurs, don’t panic. Staying calm will help your horse navigate the situation and think its way through the problem.

The horse will usually come to a stop and wait for assistance if everyone stays calm. Small mishaps like a dropped rein happen, and horses learn quickly that stopping and standing still is their best strategy when something goes wrong. For example my horse has turned and gotten the line under her tail. Because I stayed calm, she didn’t panic, and I was able to get the situation corrected.

When you begin a big turn, you will need to gather one line while you let the other line out. The direction you’re turning

will become the new inside line (rein) that needs shortening. The opposing rein will need to slide through your hand a bit to become the new outside line (rein). This is the hardest skill in long lining, but when you and your horse get the hang of it, you will begin to feel the connection, and you will begin to understand how long lining helps overall training.

Punch long lines around pylons.

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Once you have mastered ground driving or long lining in a safe enclosed space, you can begin to take your horse out into the paddock or barnyard or even down a quiet road for exercise and mental stimulation. We all get bored of training within four walls, so being able to ground drive or long line outdoors in the open is a great bond-building experience, a precious experience.

Challenge yourself and your horse with obstacles like bridges, pylons, and ground poles. Your horse’s confidence will increase since in the long lines he will need to be brave and negotiate the obstacles without too much help from you.

Ground driving is an excellent way to get a western horse soft and supple and forward-thinking, even before under-saddle

work begins. Long lining improves forwardness, confidence, and communication between horse and handler. In more advanced training of English horses, it can be used to increase soft engagement of the hindquarters, leading to increased impulsion, suppleness, and loftiness in advanced maneuvers.

Both training methods are fantastic ways to enhance and improve your horse’s mental and athletic abilities. For pleasure, trail, and athletic horses alike, these exercises can build bravery and confidence, develop balance, suppleness, strength, and coordination, deepen the training relationship and bond between horse and handler, and help prepare them to become confident, knowledgeable, and safer mounts.

Laureen James, BCom, journalist, and EC/NCCP Coach Certification IOB, is an equine journalist who writes for many publications. She also writes for the pet industry and is a columnist for Unison 50+ News. She has covered rodeos, show jumping, and other related events over the past few years as a journalist and photographer.

Photos were taken by Laureen James, graphics provided by Saddle Up with Tarp Designs

Young Rider

I QSULE E A NIE &

Isla is eight years old and is an avid rider from Switzerland. While visiting her grandma in Kelowna (her mom’s hometown) she was keen to get some riding in while she was visiting.

Here’s Isla and Queenie, the horse she fell in love with, as they get ready for a ride at horse camp at Dragonfly Farm in Kelowna.

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Learning to Rope With Cody Braaten Part One covered the fundamentals of roping: loop size, swing, angles, delivery, and starter equipment. Part Two is about putting those fundamentals to work, how to practice, how to learn from a miss, and how to use the dummy to build consistency.

Roping Fundamentals - Part Two Learn From Every Throw One of the biggest misconceptions beginners have is that experienced ropers always make it look easy. Every accomplished roper has missed thousands of times. Missing isn’t failure; it’s part of the learning process. Advanced ropers will miss while working on new skills or techniques, just like a beginner that is learning the fundamentals. The important thing is to figure out why you missed.

After each throw, identify one thing to correct. If your loop collapses

during your swing, ensure that you are keeping an open and smooth swing. If the rope is missing the target, ensure that you are following through on your delivery. Don’t try to fix everything at once. Pick one

issue, make the adjustment, and throw again.

Ask yourself questions like: Did my loop stay open?

Was my rope pointed at my target?

Did I follow through with my delivery?

Did I abruptly change the speed?

Was my body position correct?

Those lessons eventually lead to consistency.

Slow Down to Fix the Problem Many beginners think they need to move to the next step in order to improve. Often, the opposite is true. Slower speeds allow us to break things down and ensure we are fundamentally correct.

Body position, swing fundamentals, timing, delivery, and horse position are easier to evaluate and correct without the added variables of speed or live cattle.

Working Toward Your First Catch There’s something special about making your first catch as a new roper. To someone watching from the sidelines, it may not seem like much, but to the person holding the rope, it represents something much bigger. It represents persistence, patience, and the realization that they can do something they once thought was out of reach. Your first catch doesn’t happen by accident. It’s the result of countless small improvements coming together.

Keep these seven things in mind as you work toward your first catch: Practice consistently.

Work on one correction at a time.

Use the dummy.

Learn from misses.

Slow things down.

Build confidence gradually.

Celebrate the first catch.

Next Step: Live Cattle Live cattle have a different purpose. You can’t fully replace the feel, timing, and decision-making that comes with live runs. Once your fundamentals are becoming consistent, live cattle allow you to put those skills into a moving situation and learn to make decisions in real time.

Not every practice needs to be full speed, and not every improvement comes from adding more pressure. Both have value.

Both matter. And when used together, they make well-rounded and more confident ropers.

My goal with these clinics is to help riders leave with better fundamentals, a clearer understanding of what they’re doing, and tools they can take home and continue to work on.

Watch for part three next!

If something isn’t working, slow it down and isolate the problem. Work on the movement until it feels consistent before adding speed or pressure.

Use Your Dummy One question I get asked fairly often when people are deciding whether or not to attend a clinic is, “Will there be live cattle?”

The answer is that many of my clinics focus on proper roping

fundamentals and horsemanship through dummy work both on the ground and on horseback.

There’s a common belief that once you’ve moved past the beginner stage, roping a dummy doesn’t have much value anymore. The truth is, the dummy is one of the most important tools we have for building and maintaining solid fundamentals.

I spend a lot of time practicing on the dummy myself, even on my rodeo

horses. It’s where I go to clean things up, fix small issues before they become big ones, and build confidence and consistency that carries over to when I do rope live cattle.

Use the dummy to repeat the same movement and work on one correction at a time . It gives you the opportunity to focus on your swing, delivery, body position, timing, and horse position without the added pressure of a live run.

Cody Braaten has been roping in British Columbia for more than 25 years, beginning in high school rodeo and continuing through college and amateur competition. A two-time BC Rodeo season champion, Cody continues to compete while offering clinics, demonstrations, and online coaching. Follow Cody Braaten Roping Lessons on Facebook, Instagram, and TikTok, or email braatenroping@ gmail.com.

Photos were provided by Cody Braaten and taken by photographers: Gabby Macdonald, Maria Bayliff, and Tanis Payne.

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The Freedom of Trailering!?

Now You Can Travel With Peace of Mind!

By Patricia Skinner-Porter

The very first horse trailer I was so excited and very proud to haul was an ancient Circle J, two horse straight haul, baby-poop brown with a huge decal on the front (that covered a deserving rust spot). I found a new kind of freedom without depending on others, which marked the beginning of a horse’s life I had only dreamed of! To this day, I still feel that same freedom every single time I head out with horses in tow.

Over the past 40 years I have hauled all types of horse trailers coast to coast throughout Canada and the US and ...I am pretty sure I could write a book on the hauling nightmares that I have either experienced or witnessed.

While travelling down the highways and byways, I have seen horses climbing through windows and up into mangers; high-centred over dividers; scrambling; caught up in hay nets; horses trying to climb out of back doors, heads through broken window bars, trailers with horse heads protruding out the roof, trailer doors dragging, and the list goes on and on...

Once, while trailering four horses through Denver, Colorado, I had all 4 tires blow at the same time on I25 from nails on the highway. One Sunday my truck broke down on the route to Jackson, Wyoming, with a dead alternator; I lost my transmission in Arizona on Hwy 66 in 100°F weather. On another occasion I was involved in a jackknife incident with a semi going down Rabbit Ears Pass in a freak July Colorado snowstorm. I have stopped to help folks with overheated horses while broken down in the middle of cities, prairies, and the desert. I’ve seen rolled trailers and horses unable to load or unload; I have given countless trailer clinics and helped hundreds with trailering issues and emergency evacuations...in short, ‘life’ happens to everyone.

As a result, I have become a ‘defensive’ driver when hauling horses and have incorporated many ‘just in case’ items with my truck/trailer packing, doing my best to think of what happens before what happens happens, as sometimes that unexpected problem does happen! Having the right equipment on board is important, but a little preparation before you pull out of the driveway can go a long way. Here I have listed some of my essential trailer items.

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Horse Trailer Essential Items Gloves Flashlight or headlamp Fire Extinguisher High-Visibility Vest Tire blocks Tire ramp Tow strap Three orange emergency road cones (I like the collapsible ones that tuck away easily) Extra-long line Duct tape WD40 Antifreeze Brake and transmission fluids Heavy-duty zip ties Shovel, hammer, basic wrenches, pliers, and tools Tire guage Small battery booster First aid kits (for both horses and humans) Horseshoe pullers and rasps Extra water, enough for the number of horses I am hauling.

Extra buckets Hay and feed Long lines Paper and permanent marker to leave a note Solar phone charger

Before You Hit the Road A Quick Trailering Safety Check Check your tires: Inspect both truck and trailer tires for wear, damage and proper inflation. Don’t forget the spares (truck and trailer).

Check your hitch and connections: Make sure the hitch, coupler, safety

chains, breakaway system and electrical connection are secure and functioning properly.

Check your trailer: Inspect doors, latches, dividers, windows and floorboards before loading.

Carry enough water: Always have extra water available for the horses in case you are delayed.

Know your route: Check road conditions, weather, construction and potential areas where you may safely pull over.

Have emergency contacts handy: Keep roadside assistance, your veterinarian and an emergency contact readily accessible.

Tell someone where you’re going: Let someone know your route, destination and expected arrival time.

Plan for the unexpected: Keep your emergency supplies together

and easily accessible, not buried under everything else in the truck or trailer.

Do a final walk-around: Before pulling away, check that all trailer doors and compartments are secured and that your horses are comfortable.

Unfortunately, sometimes having extra supplies just isn’t enough.

Twenty years ago, while coaching in the US, I always hauled horses with the peace of mind of road coverage with USRider Equestrian Roadside Assistance that provides all kinds of help with vehicles, trailers and horses. Heck, the first time I called them, I remember their first questions were, “What is your location?” followed by, “Do you have enough water and feed for the horses until we reach you?”

So often, like me, it’s a single woman, proudly driving her beloved horses to that show, clinic, parade, rodeo, ranch gathering, race, camp, or trail destination. Usually, we are horsewomen, not mechanics, and...more often than not, here in Canada we are absolutely devastated to break down knowing that towing services will not help with trucks or trailers if horses are on board. We leave the barn on a hope and a prayer that we will reach our destination event-free. But, if you drive vehicles and haul horses, you know— you know—that problems are a possibility!

Well, just last month I was reminded how overwhelming and stressful a trailering breakdown can be when my truck blew both fuel pumps on the highway from hell, Coquihalla, with 2 horses on board. Dangerous—scary? Oh yes! Five hours at 33°C, hardly any shoulder space, and semis blasting by with zero regard! I am grateful for this incident, as it inspired me to reach out once again to USRider. When I learned that they serve all of Canada, I signed up without any hesitation! I am ecstatic to say that on behalf of Canadian equestrians, I was able to negotiate a 20% discount for Canadian horse folks wanting 24/7 nationwide roadside assistance for vehicles, trailers, and horses! Finally, we can take our horses down the road to our dream events with peace of mind and the confidence that if we break down, there is a number to call that has service providers that will come to the aid of our trucks, horse trailers, and our horses as well! What a relief!

Ride On! For a (true) annual membership fee, you will enjoy exclusive services created by equestrians specifically for equestrians.

As a new Canadian member of USRider you will receive 20% discount for your choice of either Classic or Premier coverages (does not apply to commercial haulers).

Just call USRider at 800-844-1409, use the QR code or, go the website www.usrider.org/ps26 to choose the service that best suits your needs. Use the link PS26 at check out for your discount! Now, at long last, we Canadian horse folk can travel with horses in tow, relaxed, knowing we have support whenever needed and ride on... with the freedom of peace of mind!

Patricia Skinner-Porter is the owner/operator of Harmony Farm Kennel & Lamb at Monte Lake, BC. Offering custom care boarding, providing personal care, attention and daily exercise for ALL dog types, breeds and dognalities! Here she shares her vast array of experience with a beneficial monthly tip for you and your pooch to enjoy!

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Is Your Horse Jacked or Just Tense?

By Britain Mills-Dawes

Have you ever looked at a horse and thought to yourself, Wow, that horse is jacked!! Maybe their shoulders look solid and/or their hindquarters are packed with muscle. The muscles are well defined and clearly showcasing the horse’s strength... or is it?

Before we simply chalk that striking musculature up to a well-developed athlete, there’s another question worth asking: Is this strong muscle or is it just tension? And how do you assess this?

What can look like impressive muscle development can sometimes actually translate to a horse bracing or protecting an area of discomfort. While a strong, conditioned horse should absolutely have developed firm musculature, strength and muscular tension are not the same thing; however, they can certainly co-exist but are not synonymous with one another. While a muscle can be strong and tight, it can also be weak and tight. Which is where things get interesting and sometimes hard to differentiate.

The ultimate goal is to have a horse that can create tension when it needs to produce power but can also release it when it doesn’t. So, the question remains: how do you tell the difference?

STRONG vs. TIGHT Muscles As stated above, a horse that is considered strong should be able to produce force when necessary for the task at hand and release it when the job is done. They should be able to complete the task with a full range of motion as well, whereas a horse with stiff muscles instead has restrictions in range of motion due to the fact the muscle is in a full state of contraction.

A well-conditioned horse should be capable of producing controlled movement, adjusting their posture and stride, bending and changing direction, and gradually becoming more fluid as they warm up.

Strong, Healthy Muscles: Can exert force and relax completely Can do the job without injury Allow full range of motion Fatigue slowly when resistance is applied to them

Tight Muscles: Are limited in their ability to lengthen or stretch Remain in a state of contraction even when at rest Restrict joint mobility Fatigue quickly

How can one assess this on their own?

Have your horse stand square and compare both sides. Look at their neck, shoulders, back, and hindquarters. Do you see symmetry between the two sides? While you aren’t looking for perfect symmetry between the two sides, you should be looking to see if there are any meaningful differences between the two.

Take a look at your horse’s musculature and how defined the muscle groups are. You shouldn’t be able to see divots and outlines of muscles everywhere, or that would be an indication of tension within the body.

Instead, the muscles should look soft and proportionate; however, the exact look of muscles can vary between horses.

A reiner, a jumper, a ranch horse, and a draft horse aren’t going to carry muscle the same way. So ask yourself: Does one side look noticeably less developed? Does one muscle group appear unusually prominent?

Next we can do a physical inspection of the muscles while they are at rest. Run your hands over the muscles while your horse is relaxed and see if you notice any texture, major divots, or even differences between the two sides. At this point in time you are not looking for if the horse reacts to palpation or touch, just trying to notice their muscle structure! A horse reacting to palpation does not automatically mean that muscle is injured, just as a horse that doesn’t react doesn’t automatically mean there’s no issue. It’s all about gathering information from touch, not creating a diagnosis.

Lastly, observe them while in movement.

Have them walk away from you, past you, and towards you at different gaits and on different sides in order to collect the most data.

While doing so, ask yourself the following in order to establish patterns or changes: Is the stride even?

Does the horse look comfortable?

Can they change directions without consistently resisting?

Do they bend both ways?

Do transitions look fluid or braced?

Does their movement improve as they warm up?

Does something look noticeably different from their normal way of going?

4 Things to Check and DO When You Spot Tension!

Before you do anything, the most important step is to ask, “Why?” What might be causing this, and how can I help reduce the effects on my horse’s muscles...?

1. Assess Workload Has their workload recently increased?

Are they adequately conditioned for what you’re asking? Are they getting enough recovery? Are you consistently asking for repetitive movements?

2 . Assess the Tack Saddle fit, for example, can be relevant when a horse develops muscle atrophy within the back and/or has disproportionate muscularity in the shoulders and spine.

Check your sweat patterns after a ride; are they even along the horse bilaterally? Is the saddle sitting balanced along the spine from the pommel to the cantle?

3. Assess Current Training Is the horse both fit and educated enough for the exercise you’re asking for?

Sometimes what feels like resistance is instead a horse struggling to perform the task we’ve asked of them.

4. Look into bodywork & targeted stretches and mobilizations A trained professional can help guide you and give you more information on how to better support your horse. Working with someone can help you see things you weren’t otherwise aware of or help find solutions and causes for the tension while finding ways to help soften and strengthen their body. It’s also important to note that one session with a bodyworker will NOT “fix” your horse; change takes time, no matter how good your professional is.

The number one thing to do is try to find the cause first, then decide what the horse needs. That might look like adjusting the workload, changing the training approach, evaluating tack fit, incorporating appropriate movement and recovery, working with a professional or even involving your veterinarian when pain or injury is suspected.

At the end of the day, we are looking for muscles that allow for a horse to be strong, mobile, and comfortable. The real sign of a well-developed athlete isn’t simply how strong they look, but instead they are able to use their body well.

Britain Mills-Dawes, owner of Stable Instincts—an equine wellness business specializing in bodywork and nutrition. She’s a practitioner, clinician, and speaker who’s presented at some of the largest Canadian equine events, such as the Calgary Stampede and Horse Expo. Britain also co-hosts her equine podcast, Uncinched. Connect with her at stableinstincts.ca

Fido A P P I I F g e ed i n T T G G O O D D tthh!!

t o… g o c c rd i n

nn o o M M e e OOffTThh

By Patricia Skinner So, there you are looking at the bag of expensive dog kibble or boutique dog food, wondering how much to feed your dog. Dog food may vary in protein, fat, and fibre percentages, and most bags of kibble provide a schedule guideline recommending specific amounts to feed, according to the weight, size, age, and activity level of a dog.

As a custom care dog boarding kennel at Monte Lake, BC, I agree to feed whatever a customer brings me to feed their dogs. They provide written instructions for me to follow. I see all kinds of dog weights, conditions, aptitudes, temperaments, appetites, metabolisms, and athletic abilities that often are contradictory to the amounts indicated to feed.

Believe me when I say that I see all varieties of dog food, including frozen half chickens, turkey necks, poultry feet, raw veggies and fruits, yogurt, pumpkin, bouillon, cheese or bacon strips, cans of tuna, salmon, or sardines, raw organ meats, raw dog meats, wet can dog food, cooked meats, last night’s dinner leftovers...you name it! So, how does any of that translate to feeding appropriately for your own dog?

When it comes to quantity, a person may say they feed their dog two cups of kibble twice a day. Often, they provide the ‘cup’ that they use. A cup is a cup is a cup? That ‘cup’ might be a true cup; it may be a liquor cup or a cup used for liquid. The ‘cup’ might be a broken mug, a yogurt container, or a party cup! So what is a cup anyway?!

FEEL, LOOK, LISTEN… to your dog!

FEEL your dog’s body condition. There should be a healthy rib coverage. If you have to press your hand in to find the ribs, that is too much weight. If you can count your dog’s ribs, they need more food. The top of your dog’s spine should be flat to your hand rather than having any spinal process protruding—if there is a bulge on either side of the spine, that is too much weight.

LOOK if your dog has any ripple of fat behind their elbow or fat

pads anywhere, that is too much weight. If your dog is laboured with exercise or struggles to get up and move or take obstacles or stairs, your dog is burdened with carrying too much weight.

LISTEN if your dog pants while relaxed, gets winded easily, or takes more than a few minutes to recover after activities, they are carrying more weight than they can easily manage. (Be sure to check with your vet as well in this case).

Note: If your dog is a large breed, be especially careful of feeding too much quantity all at once for bloat precautions.

Finally, don’t forget those treats! Please include the amount of those yummy treats in the volume of daily food you are giving your dog. Three cheers to a healthy, active, and exuberant Fido with an appropriate diet!

Patricia Skinner-Porter is the owner/operator of Harmony Farm Kennel & Lamb at Monte Lake, BC. Offering custom care boarding, providing personal care, attention and daily exercise for ALL dog types, breeds and dognalities! Here she shares her vast array of experience with a beneficial monthly tip for you and your pooch to enjoy!

I am often amazed at what people believe a dog ‘needs’ to have a healthy diet and...how much. Needless to say, some of the dogs I care for are overweight and have joint issues (hmmm...could this be related?). Inactive dogs tend to cause ‘owner guilt,’ leading them to keep their dogs ‘happy’ through their stomachs, rather than by exercise or interaction. (IMO, a fat dog is never a “happy” dog!) Rather, a fat dog struggles to carry that extra weight. Their skeleton is stressed, joints are strained, all their vital organs are on overdrive, their breathing is laboured, their heart rate is usually elevated, and even their paws work more than nature intended, but usually their appetite is intact.

So how does a person really know how much to feed their dog (without a vet intervening)? Rather than going by a dog food bag guideline, I encourage you to use old-fashioned common sense ...

FOR YOUR

Feeding instructions might include a ‘spoon’ or ‘some’ wet food added to the kibble. Additionally, the customer might provide supplements and medications. And then there are those yummy treats! Be it dry liver treats, jerky, milk bones, or chemical bacon?

Rollovers, those treats are meant to be in addition to the dog’s regular menu!

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Looking Forward to Fall As summer winds down, Horse Council BC is looking ahead to an exciting fall season filled with opportunities to connect, compete, and celebrate our equestrian community.

See you in Barriere for the 55+ BC Games!

One of the highlights of September will be the 55+ BC Games Equestrian Competition in Barriere. Hosted at the North Thompson Fall Fair & Rodeo Association grounds from September 9-12, the event will bring together riders, drivers, volunteers, officials, and supporters from across the province for four days of competition and camaraderie.

Your membership plays an important role in supporting equine welfare, safety initiatives, trail access, and the continued growth of equestrian sport and recreation throughout the province. We encourage members to watch for renewal information in the coming weeks and renew early to ensure uninterrupted coverage and benefits.

Thank you for your continued support of Horse Council BC. We wish you and your horses a safe and enjoyable fall season, and we hope to see many of you in Barriere this September!

Disciplines include dressage, western dressage, driving trials, ranch horse, and mountain trail. The Games are one of BC’s largest multi-sport events, celebrating active living and lifelong participation in sport. We look forward to cheering on competitors and reconnecting with members from across British Columbia.

For more information check out the website https://hcbc.ca/sport/ competition/bc-55-games.

Membership Renewals Are Coming Soon Fall also marks the start of membership renewal season for the 2027 year. Renewing your HCBC membership helps support the programs, services, and advocacy efforts that strengthen BC’s equine industry while ensuring you maintain access to valuable member benefits, including liability insurance, educational resources, discounts, and competition eligibility.

b u H b U l C The Back Country Horsemen of BC Gymkhana Gymkhana at at Evergreen Evergreen Park Park Submitted Submitted by

by Heather Heather Warren, Warren, Alberni Alberni Valley Valley Chapter Chapter The Alberni Valley chapter of the Back Country Horseman of British Columbia held its annual spring gymkhana on June 20 at Evergreen Park. Ten riders and 12 horses participated in the games, which included Barrels, Pole Bending, Keyhole, Scurry, and Stake Races.

The high point for the day was Elaena Normand (peewee); the second was Carla Cyr (senior); and third was Ella Reid, who is a junior but chose to compete in the senior category. Thanks to the Beaver Creek Volunteer Fire Department for their early morning visit to water the ring before the event and to the Alberni-Clayoquot Regional District (ACRD) for providing the venue.

The Alberni chapter maintains the arena and obstacles at Evergreen in partnership with the ACRD. Members hold work bees throughout the year to maintain the facility. The events held there are important for members of the horse community who don’t have trailers or are looking for an affordable early show to school their horses or just have fun.

This year a tailgate/table tack sale was held at the event, with vendors paying a fee of $10 to the chapter. It takes a lot of effort and hours to put on an event, and our volunteers could use some extra hands. The chapter would like to extend an invitation to the

local horse community to join its efforts to support riders through their events and clinics. New members are welcome. If you are interested, please contact avchapterbchbc@gmail.com.

Jen

Tow e

ll

The next gymkhana will take place at the Alberni District Fall Fair on Sunday, Sept. 13. Chapter members will also take part in the parade on Saturday, Sept. 12. Come out and support the horse community of the Alberni Valley either as a participant or spectator.

Tr e n n a

B r ow n

Samantha Reynolds

Peewee high point: Elaena Normand and Trenna Brown

S ue S he

p p a rd

The Canadian Canadian Cowboy Cowboy The Challenge Challenge The Tradition Behind the Ride Under Section 6 of the CCC Rules, it states: “The Canadian Cowboy Challenge is a Western event. Western tack and attire is required, including western saddle with a fixed horn, long sleeved collared shirt, jeans, cowboy boots and a cowboy hat or riding helmet must be worn for the ride. All tack must be serviceable and in good condition.”

These guidelines are general information about what riders need to know to be able to demonstrate the skills used on the ranch and/or trail. We are in the 21st century, but much of our “ranch” or “trail” riding today has traditional ideas and roots that have evolved from the past and our history.

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, when the horse was a means of transportation or a part of our daily work, tack and attire had to be functional. This is the topic I would like to highlight this month.

In the history of Western riding, there was a PURPOSE behind how riders dressed and chose and used their equipment (tack) on their horse. For the rider, a long sleeved collared shirt, cowboy hat and chaps provided protection from the elements and/or environment. On the ranch, for example, a long sleeved shirt and cowboy hat protected against the sun. Chaps were worn for protection from the environment, such as trees, brush, rain and cold in the winter.

ear or brow band and throat latch type headstalls.

Split reins were an influence from the Texas area, while the romal was influenced by the Spanish/West Coast area. Again, a rider’s preference of tack and attire was based on their history and background.

Even when riding the trails, there was a purpose behind what riders chose for tack and attire to adventure out with. For example, a lineman would be out for days at a time checking the lines between towns.

On the prairies, it would be mostly weather related, dealing with sun, rain and cold.

But in the foothills and further west, they needed to prepare for the environment as well, riding through bush, pulling trees away from lines or making a trail more accessible to travel on.

Safety was also important, as many times a rider would be by themselves with no one around to help if they got injured.

Photos by Ken Matthews

I have only touched on a few perceptions of what the late 1800s and early 1900s were like and the influence they have had on our riding today. Back then, the importance of rider preparation and knowledge of what they were doing, along with reliance on the ability and training of their horse, was essential.

There was a purpose behind how to best accomplish the tasks that needed to be done, just as there should be when we are practicing and doing a Challenge today.

Ideally, this would be teamwork at its best, then and now. Today, the CCC is attempting to simulate tasks that were required in those times. We have the advantage of the accumulated knowledge of our rich history and the luxury of using this knowledge for a pleasurable and enjoyable activity as a team, as well as having fun. Enjoy your ride, Hans Kollewyn

Saddles had a big horn for rope work, such as roping a cow, which meant the need for a hind/back cinch. Long saddle leather ties on the saddle were used to tie down and carry items such as a slicker, bedroll and tools.

Bridles were a personal preference, with

canadiancowboychallenge.com

Photos by Sannna with permission 27

Before You Load

Understanding Canada’s Rules For Transporting Compromised and Unfit Horses Transporting horses isn’t just about getting from point A to point B. It is a critical phase in a horse’s life that, if handled improperly, can lead to stress, injury, or even death. The risks increase significantly when decisions must be made about transporting equines that are, or become, compromised or unfit during the journey.

To help horse owners, caregivers and transporters make informed decisions, the Horse Welfare Alliance of Canada (HWAC) has developed a guide that provides clarity on the regulatory requirements for transporting horses in Canada. The guide breaks down Canada’s federal Health of Animals Regulations (Part XII) as they apply to compromised or unfit animals, with a specific focus on equines. These regulations apply to all horses being transported, regardless of whether the transport is for recreational, competitive, commercial or personal purposes. The guide outlines the responsibilities of all parties involved in transport, including owners, caregivers, enforcement personnel, veterinarians, hired transporters and others when dealing with compromised or unfit animals. It also addresses animal welfare considerations during disasters or emergencies.

“This guide isn’t just for commercial transporters,” said Dr. Bettina Bobsien, equine veterinarian and HWAC Board member. “Whether you’re hauling your horse to a veterinarian, a show, or across the country, you have a legal and ethical responsibility to do your best to ensure that trip is as low-stress and as safe as possible.”

Understanding the Rules and What’s Required The Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) is responsible for enforcing Canada’s animal transport regulations, many of which are not widely understood by horse owners or transporters. The HWAC guide provides information to help interpret the regulations and includes definitions from the CFIA for terms such as compromised and unfit. Under federal transport regulations, injured, ill or otherwise impaired animals are classified as either compromised or unfit for transport.

COMPROMISED — Transport only with special provisions.

“Compromised” signifies animals that require additional care or special provisions to ensure their well-being during transport.

UNFIT — Do not transport.

When Things Change A horse’s fitness to travel can change once the journey begins.

An animal that was fit to transport when loaded may become compromised or unfit because of illness, injury, stress, weather, road conditions or other circumstances. The guide outlines what owners and transporters should do when an animal’s condition changes during transport.

Contingency Planning Being prepared for the unexpected is an important part of responsible horse transportation. A contingency plan can address situations such as an accident, inclement weather, traffic delays or a horse becoming compromised during the journey. Plans should be realistic and practical, with the goal of preventing suffering and protecting animal welfare.

Transporting a Compromised Horse Horses considered compromised are subject to specific requirements and special provisions during transport. Depending on the circumstances, these may include segregation from other animals, additional bedding or other measures to protect their welfare, minimizing the distance travelled and restrictions on where the animal can be transported.

Education and Planning Are Key The guide is designed to demystify federal regulations and make them easier to understand for everyone, from seasoned professionals to recreational horse owners. It includes checklists, definitions, real-life scenarios, and practical advice to support regulatory compliance and animal welfare. Responsible transport involves planning for situations that may arise along the way, not simply determining whether a horse is fit before it leaves. Having a plan in place for unexpected delays, changing weather, accidents or a change in the horse’s condition can help reduce additional stress and suffering.

“Unfit” denotes animals unsuitable for transport due to significant health or welfare concerns.

“Canadian horse owners want to do the right thing,” Dr. Bobsien said. “This guide makes sure they know what that looks like, legally and ethically, every time a horse is about to be loaded onto a trailer.”

Key Areas Covered in the Guide

The Guide

Trip Preparation

The full Transport Regulations for Compromised or Unfit Animals guide is available as a free download from the HWAC website at horsewelfare.ca/transport

Transporting an animal requires careful planning. Key considerations include the animal’s health and fitness to transport, trailer cleanliness and biosecurity, emergency contingency plans, monitoring during transport, environmental conditions, proper documentation, and access to food, water and rest.

Fit to Transport Being fit to transport means an animal is healthy enough to endure the journey without experiencing unnecessary pain or distress.

Before loading, animals must be assessed for their ability to handle 28

the demands of transport, considering factors such as physical condition, age, trip duration and weather. The guide includes the CFIA’s Assessing Lameness for Transport flowchart to evaluate lameness and determine fitness for travel, ensuring only fit animals are transported.

For more information on Canada’s equine transport regulations, contact HWAC at info@horsewelfare.ca The Horse Welfare Alliance of Canada (HWAC) is a national coalition of equine professionals, veterinarians, breeders, and owners committed to advancing horse welfare through industry collaboration and offering science-based education.

clubs & associations 325

Promoting equine activities and knowledge in the south Cariboo with Shows, Clinics, Gymkhanas and more.

President: Danita McLaren E-mail: 100mileoutriders@gmail.com ~ www.100mileoutriders.org

Alberta Donkey and Mule Club Play Days • Clinics • Shows • Trail Rides • Community Events • Knowledge Sharing High Point in Competitive and Recreational Categories

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We are dedicated to providing therapeutic horseback riding lessons to riders of all abilities in Princeton, BC. Contact us at hoofbeatstra@gmail.com www.hoofbeatstra.ca 250-487-9733

BC CARRIAGE DRIVING SOCIETY Pleasure, Combined, Recreation from Minis to Drafts, bccarriagedriving.com BC PAINT HORSE CLUB bcphc.com, Open Show & Competition Program, award sponsorships for local clubs, youth scholarship. maddy.shannon33@gmail.com NORTHERN SADDLE CLUB Smithers BC. Check out our website at northernsaddleclub.com and follow us on Facebook

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VERNON DISTRICT RIDING CLUB (Vernon BC), check out our website at vernonridingclub.com or visit our Facebook & Instagram pages VINTAGE RIDERS EQUESTRIAN CLUB (Fraser Valley BC), English/Western, lectures, clinics, socials, safe and fun, vintageriders@mail.ca, on Facebook WILD ROSE DRAFT HORSE ASSOCIATION www.wrdha.com. Barb Stephenson (Secretary) phone 403-933-5765 (8:00 am to 8:00 pm)

A SPORT for the whole Family!

Seven Divisions to accommodate all!

For more info please call 403-828-2044 or visit www.canadiancowboychallenge.com

EDUCATION. RECREATION. INSPIRATION.

Welcoming a diverse equestrian community by fostering an environment of enjoyment, development, and competition.

More details and dates available at kelownaridingclub.ca 3745 Gordon Drive, Kelowna BC

Want to enjoy miles of beautiful new trails with your equine partner in BC? Try Endurance Riding!

C 55+ GAMES Kamloops, BEquestrian Events September 9-12, 2026

We welcome all levels of riders and all breeds of equines.

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