Crochet Basics

Š CICO Books 2014

CROCHET BASICS

A step-by-step course for first-time stitchers

Includes 20 patterns for cushions and throws, hats, scarves, bags and more

Nicki Trench

Contents

Š CICO Books 2014

Introduction 6 How to use this book 7 Section 1

Getting started

8

Basic stitches 16 Basic techniques 22 Reading a pattern 25 Blocking, steaming, and pressing 27 Section 2

Workshops and Projects 28

Bobbles 88 Project 10: Bobble bag 90 Workshop 10:

Working with lace yarn, fans, and picots 96 Project 11: Lace scarf 99 Workshop 11:

Fans and clusters 101 Project 12: Catherine wheel stitch blanket 105 Workshop 12:

The basics 30 Project 1: Cotton placemats 32

Workshop 13:

Making a traditional square 34 Project 2: Squares baby blanket 39

Workshop 14:

Crocheting in the round 42 Project 3: Round pillow 46

Workshop 15:

Stripes and waves 50 Project 4: Wave and chevron stitch scarf 53

Workshop 16:

Workshop 1:

Workshop 2:

Workshop 3:

Workshop 4:

Clusters and mattress stitch joining seam 54 Project 5: Textured pillow 58 Workshop 5:

Working with cotton 107 Project 13: Shelf edging 109 Using mohair and making tassels 112 Project 14: Mohair scarf 114 Making toys 117 Project 15: Will and Rebecca bear 121 Intarsia 124 Project 16: Intarsia heart pillow 126 Advanced pattern reading and shapings 128 Project 17: Cozy gloves 130 Workshop 17:

Spirals and rib 62 Project 6: Pompom beanie hats 66

Workshop 18:

Making a garment 69 Project 7: Basic sweater 72

Workshop 19:

Beading 76 Project 8: Beaded headband 79

Workshop 20:

Workshop 6:

Workshop 7:

Workshop 8:

Hexagons 82 Project 9: Hexagon blanket 85 Workshop 9:

Triangular motifs and longer stitches 133 Project 18: Triangle blanket 138 Raised flowers 142 Project 19: Corsages 145 Pattern reading practice 148 Project 20: Silky camisole 150 Suppliers 155 Index 156

16

getting started

Basic Stitches Crochet has only a few basic stitches and once you’ve mastered these all extended stitches follow the same principles. Practice the basic stitches before attempting your first pattern. Crochet is easy to undo because you only have one loop on the hook so you can’t really go wrong. When practicing keep the loops loose—you can work on creating an even gauge across the fabric later.

Holding your hook and yarn Holding the yarn and hook correctly is a very important part of crochet and once you have practiced this it will help you to create your stitches at an even gauge.

Holding your hook There are two basic ways of holding the hook.

I always teach the pen position as I find this more comfortable. It gives you a more relaxed arm and shoulder.

Pen position Pick up your hook as though you are picking up a pen or pencil. Keeping the hook held loosely between your fingers and thumb, turn the hook so that the tip is facing up and the hook is balanced in your hand and resting in the space between your index finger and your thumb.

Knife position But if I’m using a very large hook and chunky yarn, then I may sometimes change and use the knife position. I crochet a lot and I’ve learned that it’s important to take care not to damage your arm or shoulder by being too tense. Make sure you’re always relaxed when crocheting and take breaks.

Holding your yarn Pick up the yarn with your little finger on the opposite hand to the hook, with palm facing toward you, the short end in front of the finger and the yarn in the crease between little finger and ring finger. Turn your hand to face downward (see right), placing the long yarn strand on top of your index finger, under the other two fingers and wrapped right around the little finger. Then turn your hand to face you (far right), ready to hold the work in your middle finger and thumb.

Holding hook and yarn while crocheting Keep your index finger, with the yarn draped over it, at a slight curve, and hold your work (or the slip knot) using the same hand, between your middle finger and your thumb and just below the crochet hook and loop/s on the hook.

As you draw the loop through the hook release the yarn on the index finger to allow the loop to stay loose on the hook. If you tense your index finger, the yarn will become too tight and pull the loop on the hook too tight for you to draw the yarn through.

Holding hook and yarn for left-handers Some left-handers learn to crochet like right-handers, but others learn with everything reversed—with the hook in the left hand and the yarn in the right.

Š CICO Books 2014 17 getting started

Slip knot A slip knot is the loop that you put onto the hook to start any stitch in crochet.

2

1 Make a circle of yarn as shown.

4

Pull both yarn ends gently to tighten the loop around the crochet hook shank.

In one hand hold the circle at the top where the yarn crosses, and let the tail drop down at the back so that it falls across the center of the loop. With your free hand or the tip of a crochet hook, pull a loop through the circle.

3 This forms a very loose loop on the hook.

5

Make sure the loop is not TOO tight.

It needs to slip easily along the shank.

Chain stitches (abbreviated ch) Chains are the basis of all crochet. This is the stitch you have to practice first because you need to make a length of chains to be able to make the first row or round of any other stitch.

Practicing these will also give you the chance to get used to holding the hook and the yarn correctly.

1

Start with the tip of the hook pointed upward, with the slip knot on your hook sitting loosely so there is enough gap to pull a strand of yarn through the loop on the hook.

2

Catch the yarn with the hook, circling it around the strand of yarn.

Chain stitches in symbols The chain is represented in a crochet chart (see page 26) by an oval.

Each oval on the chart represents one chain.

3

As you catch the yarn, turn the tip of the hook downward, holding the knot immediately under the loop on the hook with your left hand between finger and thumb.

4

Then gently pull the strand of yarn through the loop on the hook. As soon as the tip of the hook comes through the loop, turn the tip of the hook immediately upward.

Š CICO Books 2014 Section 2

Workshops and Projects

Round Pillow Crocheting in the round is one of the pleasures and advantages of crochet.

This is a gorgeous pillow cover, very pretty and perfect for practicing doubles.

The yarn used in this project is a super chunky, very soft yarn and crochets up really quickly, too. The flowers and leaves are a charming embellishment, but you could use any of the other flowers in this book instead if you prefer.

techniques used

yarns

hooks

Stitches—double crochet, single crochet, half double crochet

pillow cover: Debbie Bliss Paloma (60% alpaca, 40% wool) super-bulky(super-chunky-) weight yarn

US size K-101⁄2 (7 mm) crochet hook US size G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

4 x 1¾ oz (50g) hanks—approx.

284yd (260m)—of main color:

16 in. (40 cm) round pillow form

Increasing with doubles Making a five-petal flower

MC 28 Jade (turquoise)

Crocheting a leaf

flowers: Scraps of light worsted (DK) weight yarn in six contrasting colors:

Making a crochet circle Joining rounds with a slip stitch

Embroidering French knots Working a single-crochet seam Adding a shell edging

pillow cover measurements Finished pillow cover fits a pillow form 16 in. (40 cm) in diameter.

A B C D E F

off-white pale orange orange pink light pink red

leaves: Scraps of light worsted (DK) weight yarn in one color: G pale green

extras

gauge 10 sts x 4½ rows over a 4 in. (10 cm) square worked in double crochet using a US size K-101⁄2 (7 mm) hook and MC.

abbreviations ch cont dc hdc rep RS sc ss st(s) WS

chain continu(e)(ing) double crochet half double repeat right side single crochet slip stitch stitch(es) wrong side

© CICO Books 2014

20 workshops, providing an easy way to master all the crochet skills you’ll ever need

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Features 20 stylish projects, from blankets and throws, cushions and pillows, to scarves, hats, a bag, a sweater and more

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Packed with expert tips and techniques, and ideal for both beginners and anyone wishing to refresh their skills

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