A Gourmet Guide to Oil & Vinegar

© Ryland Peters & Small 2014

A GOURMET GUIDE TO

Oil and Vinegar DISCOVER & EXPLORE THE WORLD’S

FINEST SPECIALITY SEASONINGS

URSULA FERRIGNO PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Jan Baldwin

A GOURMET GUIDE TO

Oil and Vinegar

© Ryland Peters & Small 2014 7 introduction 8 PART ONE Oils a 6,000-year history 10 • olives and the Holy Land 13 • how olives grow 14 extracting olive oil 22 • the New World 25 • types of oil 26 cooking with oil 28 • an introduction to oil tasting 31 • tasting notes 32 olive oil and health 42 44 PART TWO Vinegars introducing vinegar 47 • types of vinegar 48 • tasting notes 53 making vinegar 58 60 P ART THREE Recipes appetizers 61 • salads and soups 79 • pasta and lighter bites 93 fish 107 • meat and poultry 117 • accompaniments, sauces and spreads 133 • bread and crackers 141 • desserts 151 cocktails, marinades and infusions 164

170 sources and suppliers and picture credits 171 index 176 acknowledgments

Contents

Cooking with oil Although many people fry with extra virgin olive oil, I would never recommend it, as the heat causes the oil to burn and release free radicals. I find also that the flavour of the oil from frying is destroyed, along with the nutrition and goodness.

However, I’m sure that some people will dispute this!

hazelnut oil

sesame oil

chilli oil

sunflower oil

© Ryland Peters & Small 2014 I will always use a basic olive oil or groundnut oil for frying.

Groundnut oil is great at withstanding high temperatures, and is a good option for obtaining colour on food and heating up quickly. It is used a great deal in Asian cooking. As with all other fats and oils, it must never be allowed to smoke when heated.

This is a sign of overheating – the oil turns black and forms acrolein, which is toxic.

rapeseed/canola oil

You may sometimes see olive oil with a white solid layer at the bottom of the bottle. This happens when it has been exposed to the cold and will not damage or change the oil in any way. If a solid layer does form, simply return the oil to room temperature and it will return to normal. Nevertheless, it’s best not to store oils in the refrigerator.

walnut oil groundnut oil

coconut oil

Š Ryland Peters & Small 2014

Vinegars

6 (bell) peppers, a mixture of red, yellow and orange 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 6 tablespoons fruity extra virgin olive oil, Ligurian if possible 50 g/1⁄3 cup sultanas/golden raisins 11⁄2 teaspoons cumin seeds 1 teaspoon crushed dried peperoncini chillies/chiles sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 2 teaspoons caster/granulated sugar FOR THE SALAD:

3 x 125 g/4½ oz. balls buffalo mozzarella, sliced 6 Queen Spanish or other large green olives, stoned and sliced lengthways 60 g/2¼ oz. rocket/arugula 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, light and not too bold TO SERVE:

crusty bread for mopping up juices

Serves 4–6

Sweet and sour peppers with mozzarella This antipasto is timeless and its colour, simplicity and flavour always hit the right key. It is ideal for those with busy lives, as it can be made days in advance. There was always some roasted pepper in my Nonna’s kitchen to dip crusty bread into as a wonderful snack.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) Gas 6.

Place the peppers on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and bake for 25 minutes until slightly blackened and deflated. Leave to cool. Peel the peppers and discard the seeds, then cut into 1-cm/1⁄2-in. strips.

Mix the pepper strips with the vinegar, oil, sultanas/golden raisins, cumin and peperoncini chillies/chiles. Season to taste. Add the garlic and sugar and leave to infuse.

To serve, divide the mozzarella between 4–6 plates, spoon over the pepper mixture and scatter over the olives. Toss the rocket/arugula leaves in the oil and scatter some on each plate. Serve immediately.

Š Ryland Peters & Small 2014

With aromas as varied and complex as wine, speciality oils and vinegars are gourmet ingredients that need to be understood to be enjoyed at their best. Ursula Ferrigno’s beautifully illustrated guide provides both a wealth of expert knowledge and delicious recipes to cook and enjoy.

FOOD & DRINK

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