Issuu

The Belles of Cannon Falls Neighborhood Food Solutions The Mighty Elderberry

Vol.5 · 2022

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available online at local-feast.org/magazine local-feast.org

seasoned specialty

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

TABLE of CONTENTS

6 Neighborhood Food

CannonBelles

Seasoned Specialty

Hot Off the Pass

Agricultural Easements

Creative Financing

Mighty Elderberry

Pantry Makeover

13 Dogpatch

27 40

FEAST!

Black Farmer History

Last Call local-feast.org

Welcome to volume five Publisher:

FEAST

LOCAL FOODS NETWORK

Editor: Marlene Petersen Managing Editor: Elena Gutierrez Byrne Creative Director: Brett Olson Contributing Writers: Mica Anders Patrice Bailey Mecca Bos Kelli Boylen Elena Gutierrez Byrne John Clarke Beth Dooley Melvin Giles Lisa Kivirist Jody Padgam Marlene Petersen Amy Peterson

Photographers:

Five years! Since 2018, we’ve shared dozens of stories—connecting you with farmers and food businesses from all over Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota. To mark this milestone, we’ve updated our name from FEAST! Local Foods Magazine to Local FEAST! Magazine, reflecting our drive to put local first. Because that’s what FEAST! is all about. In the spirit of reflecting on how far we’ve come, this issue celebrates journeys: from Robert Pierce’s 40+ years of healing through farming in Wisconsin (p.6) to the innovative path walked by Dogpatch Urban Gardens in Iowa (p.13) to the 10-year-overnight success of CannonBelles Cheese in Minnesota (p.20). We also explore the history of brewing grains and their return to the Midwest (p.54); get acquainted with the Minnesota Black Farmers Oral History Project (p.40); and envision the future of perennial agriculture and the role we, as consumers, can play to save our soil, planet and health (p.35). The pages in-between are packed with recipes, chef profiles and a sneak peek at the 9th Annual FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace: November 5, Mayo Civic Center, Rochester, Minn. Back in person and better than ever, the one-day festival is filled with amazing products to sip, sample and shop. It’s a month earlier this year, so you can get a jump on the holidays. Check out all the exciting details starting on p.27. We’re honored to celebrate five years of bringing you the best local foods stories from the ground up. Thanks for being a local foods fan! Warmest regards, The FEAST! Local Foods Network

Tiffany Alexandria, Choochoo-ca-Chew Kriss Marion Marlene Petersen the

Countryside,

/localfeastnetwork

@Local_Feast

LocalFeast

27th Ave. S., Suite 17, Minneapolis, MN 55406 Executive Director: www.local-feast.com Jan Joannides

2637

Cover: Kathy Hupf, Jackie Ohmann, Deeann Lufkin of CannonBelles Cheese. Read about their journey from kitchen dreams to retail success, p.20. Photo:Tiffany Alexandria, Choochoo-ca-Chew Photography, choochoocachew.com

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LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

We treat our turkeys like they’re part of the family. Because since 1939, they have been. We proudly raise our turkeys in much the same way our family has for over 80 years, since our founders – Fern and Dale Peterson – settled on our farm in Cannon Falls, Minnesota. Free-range. Antibiotic-free. Naturally processed. Reserve your fresh Thanksgiving turkey for pickup at our on-farm market in Cannon Falls or use our online locator to find our turkey near you.

FerndaleMarket.com local-feast.org

Neighborhood Food Solutions

Healing Communities One Farmer at a Time

By Lisa Kivirist

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

hen Robert Pierce plants a seed on his farm, Half the 40 Acres in Fitchburg, Wisc., he’s growing more than chef-sought lettuce and tomatoes. For nearly 40 years, he’s created access to affordable, healthy food for thousands and found innovative ways to help others craft a new life through the land.

Deep roots “Farming is more than just a job for me,” explains Robert, who is motivated by a deep-rooted belief that agriculture heals the soul, something he learned from his grandmother who was the caretaker of their community on Madison’s south side in the ’50s. “She had a massive garden near the Dane County Coliseum [now the Alliant Energy Center]. I learned from her how to grow things our neighborhood couldn’t find elsewhere, like okra and collard greens. I experienced the important role healthy food can play in bringing a community together, especially in urban communities of black and brown people like me. She knew when someone was in need and just dropped off vegetables and other food. No questions asked.” As a young adult, Robert served in Vietnam. He returned to Madison with a renewed, personal interest in raising his own food. “After Vietnam, I developed severe allergies along with PTSD. When I came home, I realized all the pesticides and chemicals on our food only made it worse. I knew that if I grew it myself, I would know exactly what I was getting.” So, in 1983, Robert—a single dad with five children—traded business school for a lease on 22.5 acres fueled by a commitment to grow fresh, seasonal food without chemicals for his own kids, as his grandma had for him. “Somewhere around then, I guess you could say I officially became an organic farmer, back when barely no one else was doing the organic thing,” he adds with a smile.

Quenching a food desert With his hands back in the soil, Robert found physical and mental healing from the traumas of Vietnam. Planting became his therapy. “[It] changed my mood,” he explains. “I later heard from a psychiatrist that farming saved my life because most people who had PTSD as bad as I did were either dead or in prison.” In the ‘90s, this therapy grew into a journey of advocating for food access, justice and a voice for people ignored by the mainstream agricultural system. The need struck him while selling his

over that role. He decided to do it because “I realized that if I didn’t take ownership as someone personally dedicated to this vision, it would never happen.” That was 20 years ago. Robert still serves as the market manager today, in addition to running his own produce farm. Under his guidance, the market has grown to four weekly events with a variety of food vendors, bringing people together for much more than ingredients. “I so admire Robert’s commitment to developing his farmers markets,” says John Wendt, general manager of Regent Co-op, the food cooperative where Robert sells produce, including his incredible sweet corn and personal watermelons (considered the best around). “His work has transformed his community from a food desert to a place with multiple healthy options.”

Neighborhood Food Solutions, Inc.

vegetables at the Dane County Farmers Market—Madison’s large farmers market downtown on the Capitol Square, miles from his own community. “Madison’s south side was a food desert then, with no access to the kind of organic fresh vegetables and fruit I was growing,” he recalls. “And here I was taking food out of my community to sell at a market that my own neighbors wouldn’t go to.” The realization changed his life…and many others. Efforts to get a farmers market going on the south side had always been met with mixed results. The market manager was not living in or directly connected to the community, so Robert was asked to take

Robert’s work with the farmers market is just the tip of the iceberg. The healing power of farming led him to launch the nonprofit Neighborhood Food Solutions, Inc. (NFS), which was officially registered with the State of Wisconsin in 2017. The organization strives to teach the economic, social, health and environmental impacts of food, and promotes active community participation to create food-related economic opportunities. Two programs now carry out that mission and fill gaps in the community.

FAIR (Farming After Incarceration Release) FAIR connects returning citizens to opportunities in agriculture to help them break the recidivism cycle and become food justice leaders. Every year over 500 individuals are released from prison and return to Dane County, mostly African American men, who often find themselves

Healing Communities continued on page 9 local-feast.org

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Healing Communities continued from page 7 homeless and jobless—a high-risk combination that can lead back to prison. To help these individuals and build community resilience for everyone, FAIR welcomes returning citizens to the farm to learn the business. “We call these folks ‘returning citizens,’ not former felons or formerly incarcerated, as we want them to know there is a welcoming place for them, especially in agriculture,” Robert says. “Farming doesn’t judge or frankly care about your past. It’s all about the seeds you plant today and how you care for the soil.” The program includes 200 days of paid urban farming and business training where participants have opportunities

to lease land at Robert’s place and learn how to run and profit from their own agribusiness. The program goal, according to NFS’ website, www.nfsinc.org/fair, is “to give marginalized men skills and experience to make themselves self sufficient and eventually grow their own Neighborhood Food Solutions.” In the five years since FAIR started, 25 people have gone through the program, with seven staying in farm-related businesses.

PEAT (Program for Entrepreneurial and Agricultural Training) PEAT is a summer employment program for at-risk Madison-area teens to gain new skills on Robert’s farm.

“The kids learn all aspects of the business, from understanding spreadsheets to developing work ethics to cooking skills,” Robert says of the program which utilizes mentorship and hands-on experience to teach plant identification, crop planning, cultivation, budgeting, market sales, team-building and conflict resolution. For more, visit www.nfsinc.org/peat “I’m on a mission to teach people more than just growing food,” Robert says about the future. “I don’t see the work as ever finished, but just like farming, every season you keep planting new seeds.” —Lisa Kivirist has authored several books, including Soil Sisters: A Toolkit for Women Farmers and Ecopreneuring and Rural Renaissance. She and her family run Inn Serendipity Farm and B&B in southern Wisconsin, powered by renewable energy.

Donale Richards (pictured above), is a local food advocate and owner of Madtown Food Services, who volunteers weekly at Robert’s farm and is a vendor at the South Madison Farmers’ Market. “It’s not easy work, but to see him continue throughout the years just goes to show how much he cares about providing food to the community and teaching all types of people how to get started. I’ve been inspired by Robert’s deep commitment to advocating for food justice and local food in his community.” local-feast.org

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rtc farmland access

Buy · Protect · Sell Saving American Farmland By Jody Padgam and Marlene Petersen

hree years ago, Lynne Reeck made the difficult decision to retire from farming. Her peaceful 25 acres next to Big Woods State Park (near the Twin Cities) made it particularly attractive to non-farmers looking for an urban escape. The property would have been an easy sell—if Lynne didn’t care who bought it. But, after decades of stewarding the rolling pasture, she insisted on selling to a young, beginning or emerging farmer who would grow food for local markets and care for the land as she had. The request would take years of patience, a host of public support, and an innovative model to accomplish.

Overcoming obstacles The biggest hurdle was the financial gap between a fair price for the land–on which Lynne was relying for retirement–and one her ideal buyer could afford. “Land like Lynne’s is nearly always financially out of reach for young, beginning or emerging farmers,” says Jan Joannides, Executive Director of Renewing the Countryside (RTC), a Minnesota nonprofit which works on land access issues and helped Lynne transition. “There are many reasons, including rising land costs and a sharp decline in the number of available farms. Over the years, some smaller farms have been bought by larger ones, while others were lost to development, making farms less accessible.”

LAND ACCESIBILITY Between 2001 and 2016, 11 million acres of farmland and ranchland across the U.S. were converted to urban and highlydeveloped…or low-density residential land use. That’s equal to all the U.S. farmland devoted to fruit, nut, and vegetable production in 2017…paved over. —The 2020 State of the States Executive Summary by American Farmland Trust (AFT), a national nonprofit working to preserve farmland.

So the question became: "how does a retiring farmer (who can't afford a bargain sale but who wants to ensure the future health of her land) sell to an emerging farmer who will care for it but who struggles to afford it? For Lynne, the answer was American Farmland Trust’s Buy, Protect, Sell (BPS) program and its innovative use of agricultural conservation easements.

AGRICULTURAL EASEMENT An agricultural conservation easement is a legal instrument recorded with a property’s deed that permanently protects the property for agricultural use. Because the easement removes development rights, it typically reduces the land’s market value.

A path forward "The Buy, Protect, Sell (BPS) model provides an alternative to farmers who may not want to sell to the highest bidder if that means the land will be developed," says Alison Volk, Land Protection Projects Deputy Director at AFT. "It allows them to still receive a fair price while ensuring the land remains in farming for future generations." The model, which has been used successfully on the East Coast for decades, was new to Minnesota but seemed ideal for Lynne's situation. So Lynne, Jan, Renewing the Countryside, AFT and several other nonprofits identified a buyer and raised funds from private donors to cover the cost of the easement. AFT then purchased Lynne’s farm, placed the easement on it, and sold the land at an appropriately-reduced price. The buyer, as Lynne had hoped, was an experienced, emerging farming family who had always dreamed of owning their own land. Thanks to ingenuity, patience and generosity, Lynne is now retired from farming, the farm's new family grows produce for local farmers markets and restaurants, and the land itself is protected for years to come. To read about the BPS model, farmland access, farmer transitions, and efforts to save American farmland, visit farmland.org and renewingthecountryside.org local-feast.org

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CONSERVATION nurturing land. and ourselves.

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DUG It! Dogpatch Urban Garden brings produce and more to Des Moines By Kelli Boylen

even years ago, Jenny Quiner and her husband, Eric, purchased property near their urban home in Des Moines, Iowa to try farmsteading in their front yard. They sought to provide fresh produce to their community by adding agricultural space within the city. Today, Jenny and the crew at Dogpatch Urban Garden (DUG) grow over 10,000 pounds of produce annually, on less than three-quarters of an acre, and have created a local-foods destination.

Dogpatch continued on page 14

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Dogpatch continued from page 13

use of fossil fuels in food production and delivery, conserving resources, building up soil rather than degrading, and encouraging biodiversity.”

her community. DUG now offers a busy seasonal farmstand, farm-to-table dinners, u-pick flowers, subscription salads, a line of salad dressings, and even an on-site Airbnb.

She also wanted to teach her three sons Oliver, Walter and Lewis where their food comes from. So they bought a city plot, painstakingly removed sod, nourished the soil, and began an urban farm.

“Before our farm, the neighborhood was known as a place to purchase drugs or test drive cars (as it is close to many car lots),” says Jenny. “Since building the farm seven years ago, we have uplifted the Dogpatch term.”

Their store–the DUG FarmStand–began the same year as the farm and now carries more than 350 products, mostly made in Iowa and the upper Midwest. The Airbnb came into play because the land included rental property. When the last family moved out, Jenny and Eric decided to market the idea of urban farm stays. The concept has proven popular and bolsters DUG in the non-growing season. The salad subscription, another way to share local food while diversifying the business, runs for 12 weeks in the spring and 12 weeks in the fall.

Nearby homeowner Cathy Stjernberg appreciates DUG and the way it has brought healthy food to the area. “Having DUG within walking distance of my home adds to the experience. I want to eat healthy, fresh food. I want to know where my food is grown and that it is grown in an organic, sustainable way. I want to support local businesses, and I really want to support small, family, women farmers. I eat more salads as a result of [DUG’s] CSA.”

“We continue to choose and support locally-grown greens because of their freshness and zero contribution to greenhouse gasses caused by long transports,” says Gina MacRae, who has subscribed to DUG’s greens for many years. “Participating in a CSA is like being a part of the farmer’s family. It is a personal relationship with the people who grow and harvest the healthy nutrients with which we nourish ourselves, our family and our environment.”

While Jenny and Eric are both from Des Moines, neither set out to be a farmer. During the recession in 2008, they moved from Iowa to Colorado and helped on a farm while Jenny earned her Master’s of Education. The experiences opened Jenny’s eyes to the world of small-scale farming. In 2010, the couple returned to Des Moines where Eric began a real-estate career and Jenny taught environmental science at her alma mater, Dowling Catholic High School, in West Des Moines. Teaching students about food systems further fueled her interest in farming.

To further inspire the health of its patrons, the community and the land, DUG started its FarmStand to Fork dinners four years ago. Held four times per year—each with capacity for 40 guests—the meals feature top Des Moines chefs using ingredients grown or sold at DUG. These events have become so popular that the 2022 schedule sold out in early spring.

Unusual Name, Great Mission DUG derives its unusual name from its location. The neighborhood, known as The Dogpatch, was originally given the moniker, disparagingly, after the Li’l Abner cartoon full of rough, uneducated people.

“The courses I was teaching allowed me to dive into the food system more deeply and see how I could enhance the way food is provided to the community,” Jenny recalls. “I wanted to make a positive impact on the environment by decreasing 14

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

The beginings of DUG started with a big DIG-up of a suburban grass wasteland. That eventually transformed a neighborhood. Bottom: Ariel photo of Dogpatch Urban Garden. Jenny says a recent real estate ad for a home in her neighborhood listed one of the benefits as being within walking distance of DUG.

Diversification Since 2015, Jenny has diversified DUG’s operations to enhance their business model while creating a local-foods destination for

Always innovating, Jenny also created her own line of salad dressings with farmgrown herbs, avocado oil bases and clean ingredients. She now works with a local chef to invent new varieties like Zesty Italian, Apple Cider Vinegar, and Maple Ginger Vinaigrette that go to DUG’s 60 salad subscribers. You can find DUG’s dressings at dogpatchurbangardens.com, many grocery stores, and the FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace in Rochester, Minn., Nov. 5, 2022 (see pg. 27 for details).

The Future In early 2022, Jenny and her team ran a Kickstarter that raised more than $50,000 to erect two 30x88-foot greenhouses on a church parking lot next door that DUG bought in October 2021. They plan to use the greenhouses as early as next year to extend their growing season and bring pumpkins, spring plants and Christmas tree sales to the neighborhood. “It is a lot of work, but this is what I want to do,” says Jenny of DUG’s growth. “Our business is making a positive impact on our community, the land, and so much more. My kids are learning the value of hard work, passion, and understanding the value of finding what you love. I feel great knowing we are making our community a better place. It’s wonderful to see and hear the pride of our local business in the community.” –Kelli Boylen is a freelance writer living in the Driftless Region of Northeast Iowa.

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Farming Front and Center Minnesota’s First Agricultural License Plate Now Available

ooking for something different to adorn your bumper? Check out Minnesota’s new license plate.

Inspired by sketches from 4-H’ers and FFA (Future Farmers of America) members, the plate features hands holding seedlings, symbolic of the 4-H pledge of “my hands to larger service,” while the rising sun represents a new era in agriculture honored in FFA ceremonies. A portion of the proceeds benefit both 4-H and FFA.

“We’re excited to have this new license plate that highlights the diversity of Minnesota’s ag economy,” says MDA Commissioner Thom Petersen. “This is an opportunity for Minnesotans to show their commitment to agriculture while supporting our young leaders in FFA and 4-H.” urchase your plate at DMV offices or by mailed application. P Cost: $15.50, plus a minimum $20 contribution due at time of purchase & annually at vehicle registration renewal.

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

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Pastures continued on page 20 local-feast.org

The Belles of Cannon Falls From kitchen dreams to retail success By Marlene Petersen

annonBelles Cheese in Cannon Falls, Minn., started with a question. The same one that gets its owners— Deeann Lufkin, Jackie Ohmann and Kathy Hupf—into trouble to this day: “Wouldn’t it be fun to…?”

Before the Belles In the fall of 2012, Deeann and Jackie were making beer and wine as a hobby. They’d gotten pretty good at it but wanted to try something new. Jackie, who’s married to a dairy farmer, had access to fresh milk, so they thought: Wouldn’t it be fun to ferment milk and make cheese? The seemingly benign question kickstarted a journey neither knew she needed.

Soon, friends and family gobbled the dairy delights up as fast as Jackie and Deeann could make them, and they began to think they might be on to something, especially after some impressive feedback. “Two of Jackie’s friends from Costa Rica were visiting and sampled our queso fresco,” recalls Deeann. “They said, it was the best they’d ever had, that ‘it tastes like home.’” And in that moment, the pair knew they had more than a hobby on their hands.

Three Cheese Chicks

“We made that first batch in Jackie’s kitchen in an old soup kettle,” Deeann recalls of the quick mozzarella they initially appreciated but an hour later realized, “was a flavorless cross between mozzarella and ‘the blob.’”

The Aha Moment coincided with a time when both women were considering the next phase of their lives. Deeann, an Air Force Reserve Weather Officer whose last assignment was with the Hurricane Hunters, had retired from her dream job. Likewise, Jackie, who had served as a Director of Christian Education for 15 years, felt the stir for a new challenge.

So, they tried again. This time, they used cheese cultures, a more nuanced recipe, a double boiler, and a very unique tool to press the curds into a block of cheese. “We punched holes in tuna cans,” Jackie grins, remembering those first batches. “We hung the cheese curds from a hook in the ceiling—sometimes a light fixture—to drain the whey and aged our creations in an old wine fridge.”

“We’d done everything we wanted to in our careers,” says Deeann. “We were at a place in life where we were looking for the ‘now what?’” Still, she and Jackie knew this cheesy adventure needed one more person: a dairy expert with a degree in animal husbandry, a clear business sense, and a strong work ethic. Most of all, the third partner couldn’t shy away from: Wouldn’t it be fun to…?

As time went on, the cheese (and the process) became more sophisticated.

That’s what led them to Kathy Hupf. “I don’t think they got the question out

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

completely before I said ‘yes,’” says Kathy about the night Deeann and Jackie asked her to join the new venture. “I’d spent most of my life on a dairy farm, so I was thrilled at the idea of a cheese business.” Plus, her years of leadership experience in marketing and programming at a local Methodist church made her the perfect choice for Chief Marketing Officer. With the team assembled, Deeann, Jackie and Kathy visited numerous plants in Minnesota and Wisconsin to see what they were in for. They joined the American Cheese Society, experimented in the kitchen, and took various courses. Deeann completed the University of Wisconsin, River Falls short course on cheesemaking and became the head cheesemaker. They quickly learned their new endeavor involved expensive, high-tech equipment and extensive regulations. To sell to the public, they could no longer make cheese in a home kitchen. Yet, many commercial spaces lacked the necessary equipment or didn’t fit their budget. And they didn’t have the capacity to build their own plant…yet.

An intermediate home “We were at the end of our rope. Luckily, only one of us goes crazy at a time, and we found the Pilot Plant program at the University of Minnesota,” says Deeann, referring to the Joseph J. Warthesen Food Processing Center at the St. Paul campus (https://fscn.cfans.umn.edu/research/ pilot-plant). This novel makerspace helps

food start-ups evaluate processes and product lines without having to invest in expensive equipment. “The university had the space and equipment we needed,” says Jackie. “We also met Ray, who taught us so much.” Ray is Ray Miller, Coordinator of Pilot Plant Services at the University of Minnesota and second-generation cheesemaker who has supervised the program for 39 years. “We have always been interested in helping those who want to explore the possibility of starting an artisan cheese business,” he says about the facility that has helped artisans hone their craft since the ’70s. “Right from the start [Jackie, Deeann and Kathy] were very enthusiastic about this venture and seemed eager to learn.” So, he tweaked their recipes and taught them about milk quality, composition, food safety and how to scale up. “They

were quick learners. Soon, I was able to start letting them make the cheese on their own. All I did was get the milk pasteurized and in the vat for them. Each of the gals seemed to move toward the area they felt most comfortable with. [Jackie] chose to be the record keeper and put together the documentation, make procedures and sanitation protocol. [Deeann] was more comfortable with making the cheese, and [Kathy] liked the sales part and marketing the products. They all worked together so well in getting the business off to a start.” During their time at the U, the trio brought family and friends in to share the experience. They also brought their signature trait: fun! “There were always periods of laughter whenever they were all together making the cheese at the University plant,” Rey recalls fondly. “It is always so rewarding for me to see those I have trained take what they have learned and apply it and be successful—like [the Belles] winning 1st

place at the American Cheese Society for their Queso Fresco. Artisan cheesemaking takes a lot of hard work, but these gals have proved they have what it takes.” The Pilot Plant became a crucial step in their journey. “Going to the U was the best decision we ever made,” says Kathy. “It was expensive but was a turning point in our development. We learned about the equipment we needed for our business. It immediately changed what we had planned for the facility we hoped to build down the road.” They produced a variety of cheeses at the University of Minnesota from August 2016 to March 2022—making and selling up to 800 pounds every month— all while exploring options for their own plant, an endeavor that took several years and involved knocking on every door they could find.

CannonBelles continued on page 23

Pictured, left to right: Jackie Ohmann, Kathy Hupf & Deeann Lufkin-the tireless entrepreneurs of CannonBelles Cheese

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Early tools (above) used to make those first kitchen batches vs the state-of-the-art equipment at their new Cannon Falls facility.

CannonBelles continued from page 21

No stone unturned “When I first met the CannonBelles, they were kicking around every option under the sun,” says Luke Cooreman, President of First Farmers & Merchants Bank, about the trio’s search for a permanent home and how to finance it. “They went to banks, to the SBA, consulted local business owners, sought help from local nonprofits. They went to the Economic Development Authority in Cannon Falls, approached family and friends, and looked for grants based on their backgrounds.” He credits their ultimate success in building their new plant to this infatigable hustle, creativity and persistent belief. “Curveballs didn’t stop CannonBelles or slow them down. They would throw out options, and I would say ‘yeah but’ or ‘that’s a good idea but only in this

scenario.’ It was good for me to play the devil’s advocate; it helped them to identify the obstacles, but it never stopped them. They just learned to overcome.” For more on CannonBelles’ creative financing strategies, see pg. 26. Anyone who has ever met Jackie, Deeann and Kathy knows their upbeat attitudes are as relentless as their smiles. But these three businesswomen are the first to say, “we wouldn’t be where we are without a lot of help.” From their friends and family to Dave Maroney with the City of Cannon Falls, who helped secure land on which to build their facility, to John Peterson, owner of Ferndale Market, who first sold their cheese, to nonprofits like the Southern Minnesota Initiative Foundation (SMIF), it has truly taken a community to catalyze CannonBelles’ growth. “CannonBelles has been involved with SMIF for over five years,” says

Marcia Haley, Lending Director at the Owatonna-based organization which fosters economic and community vitality in 20 counties of southern Minnesota. “They knew the cheese-making portion of their business but not all the business components, and that’s where we were able to help. They’ve gotten a small loan from SMIF to help buy equipment and do marketing. They’ve also been involved in our Food Networking Peer Group and have taken many of our classes, including Make Marketing Matter and Small Business Cashflow Tips.” Other SMIF programs, which helped along the way, included the annual Entrepreneurial Bridge Event and the FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace—the region’s largest local foods festival—where the Belles have been a perennial crowd favorite since 2016.

CannonBelles continued on page 24 local-feast.org

CannonBelles continued from page 23

More to come Leading a tour of their new plant, with its fire-engine red exterior, pristine white walls, and glistening stainless steel vats, all three women beam. It’s the proud, but shell-shocked look of every new parent… and many growing entrepreneurs. “Sometimes I wonder what I’m doing at my age,” Kathy refers to this late-in-life venture. With its massive responsibilities and challenges, building a cheesemaking facility from the ground up is nerve wracking at any age. Yet, her smile

Did you know? CannonBelles was almost called The Three Cheese Chicks but chose CannonBelles to reflect the town that has “wrapped their arms around us.” suggests she knows exactly what she’s doing and loves every minute. In the cooler, Jackie gestures to stacks of Gouda, Colby, Cheddar, Queso Fresco, and eight flavors of cheese curds. They’ll

soon ship to Ferndale Market across town, People’s Food Co-Op in Rochester, Kowalski’s markets across the Twin Cities and more (for all locations, see cannonbelles.com/where-to-buy). Looking at CannonBelles’ incredible growth, it’s tempting to think the road has been easy, but as with any 10-yearovernight success there is much more than meets the eye. And for Deeann, Jackie and Kathy, who turned kitchen dreams into retail sales, “the story doesn’t end here, it just continues…” –Marlene Petersen is a Twin Cities based freelance writer, editor and novelist.

CannonBelles’ Cheese won the People’s Choice Award at the 2019 FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace. Sample this dynamic foodmaker’s products—as well as 100+ others—at this year’s extravaganza, November 5, 2022, Mayo Civic Center, Rochester. (For details see pg. 27.) From aged cheddar to tangy horseradish curds with the perfect amount of heat, CannonBelles’ cheese is made from milk sourced six miles away at Blake & Chicky Otte’s fifth-generation farm, Square Deal Dairy, in Randolph, Minn. In 2019, CannonBelles’ extended their brand with a coffee shop and ice cream parlor in historic downtown Cannon Falls where you can buy their award-winning cheeses. For more locations, see cannonbelles.com/ where-to-buy

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

How can we help your community grow?

At Southern Minnesota Initiative Foundation (SMIF), we have been investing in the innovative people of our region since 1986 in Economic Development, Early Childhood and Community Vitality. Tell us how we can help your community, business or idea grow.

507.455.3215 smifoundation.org local-feast.org

Creative Financing with CannonBelles For six years, Luke Cooreman, President of First Farmers & Merchants Bank in Cannon Falls, Minn., has guided CannonBelles through the financing fog. Here are five of his favorite tips to help you become your own 10-year, overnight success:

1. Pick a bank that will listen “Start with a community banker, someone who takes an interest in what you’re doing vs. someone who wants you to fit in their box. Even if a lender says ‘no,’ it should be a ‘no, not right now but what about…?’”

2. Follow through “I will never forget Deanne saying: ‘If someone asks you to upload a document

to apply, then upload the document. If you complete the application, you will be considered. If you don’t, you won’t.’ She’s right. You have to follow through.”

3. Keep relationship terms clear “With the exception of Mom and Dad, each investor will want a percentage of your business for the money they put in. Make sure you understand what they expect. Jackie, Deanne and Kathy all have different backgrounds, separate jobs and personal lives outside of the business. They had to figure out the terms of their partnership and what fair and equal meant to them.”

We're happy to help small businesses grow & realize their dreams! Luke Cooreman, FF&M Bank of Cannon Falls Commercial Lender & President, pictured here with CannonBelles Cheese Factory Owners Jackie Ohmann, Kathy Hupf, & Deeann Lufkin. Call us today for friendly, personalized service from local Bankers you can trust.

ffmbank.com

FEAST! Local Fods Magazine

4. Be a persistent believer “Every business is unique, but one constant remains: be open-minded, adaptable and optimistic. If a borrower isn’t optimistic, it’s hard for the lender to be.”

5. Slow & steady wins the race “CannonBelles wanted to build [their plant] five years ago but kept facing roadblocks. Some of the delays have been a blessing. Growing too fast can create problems in the long-term. CannonBelles took appropriate steps and, through it all, asked: ‘how do we take this to the next level?’ It took a while to get here, and that’s a good thing.”

Sat., Nov. 5, 2022 Mayo Civic Center Rochester, Minnesota

sip · sample · shop • wine, beer and cider tasting • locally-grown ingredients

• cooking demos • artisan products • food sampling

• holiday and pantry shopping • kids activities • and more family fun!

lo c al -feast.org /localfeastnetwork

@LocalFeast

@Local_Feast

presented by: try un si

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@LocalFeast

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/localfeastnetwork

CAL F O

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Festival Sneak Peek @Local_Feast

Here’s just a taste of the local fare you can expect to Sip, Sample and Shop at the 2022 FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace. With many familar faces and even more new ones, it’s going to be a great time! Grab a friend and join us! In the meantime, visit local-feast.org/directory for more about each business—new vendors added each week.

BEER, WINE & CIDER Forager Brewery foragerbrewery.com Scratch-made brewery that uses local ingredients to showcase Southeast Minnesota.

Squash Blossom Farm squashblossomfarm.org Artisan farm devoted to local food, art and music, now offering mead with an on-farm tasting room.

Sip, Sample, Shop

Keepsake Cidery Mncider.com Family-owned farm producing apples and grapes, ciders and wines, and offering on-farm events.

Vintage Escapes Winery www.vintageescapeswinery.com Veteran & family owned on-farm winery in lake country with patios and vintageinspired tasting room.

Saturday, Nov. 5 • Mayo Civic Center • Rochester, MN

BEVERAGES w w w. l o c a l - fe a st.o rg Kinney Creek Brewery kinneycreekbrewery.com Rochester’s 1st brewery since Prohibition. Home of the Med City Seltzer.

Little Thistle Brewing littlethistlebeer.com Family-owned, local craft brewery and taproom in Rochester with high-quality craft beer. Panache Cider panacheapple.com/our-cider Hard ciders made in the traditional French method-using cider apples. The “prosecco of apples.” Round Lake Vineyards & Winery roundlakevineyards.com Family-owned and operated vineyard and Bistro on scenic Round Lake, open year round. SxSE Minnesota Brewing Co sxsebrewingmn.com Traditional, quality beer from high quality ingredients, made in a near zero-waste brewery. 28

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

CARLSON ROASTING CO. carlsonroasting.com Fresh roasted, small-batch coffee specializing in Fair Trade and Organic coffees. CTL Foods ctlfoods.com Home of Soda Fountain® Malted Milk Powder.

Panache panacheapple.com Ayurvedic infusions of ginger, turmeric, elderberry and mint blended with apple juice. Sacred Blossom Farm SacredBlossomFarm.com Herbal teas produced at hand scale using environmentally sustainable farming practices. Sweet Haven Tonics sweethaventonics.com Concentrates for craft cocktails made with whole fruits, fresh herbs, and spices.

CHEESE & DAIRY CannonBelles Cheese cannonbelles.com Award-winning Gouda, Queso Fresco, Colby, Cheddar, and many types of cheese curds.

MEATS

KowaBucha instagram.com/kowabucha.kombucha Small-batch probiotic tea brewed and fermented in Rochester, MN

Ferndale Market ferndalemarket.com Free-range, antibiotic-free turkey, raised on our third-generation family farm.

Leafy Legacy Herb Farm facebook.com/leafylegacyherbfarm Rich teas, tasty herb salt, herbal drink syrups for the home and wholesale kitchens and bars.

Hidden Stream Farm hiddenstreamfarm.com All natural pork, pasture-raised chicken, and grass fed beef products, free of chemicals.

Mad Maiden Shrub madmaidenshrub.com Tart tonic from Wisconsin apples, a perfect base for crafting refreshing mixed drinks.

UFisheries UFisheries.com Small batch Wild Alaskan salmon jerky, smoked salmon, and smoked salmon rice balls.

Woven Meat Co wovenmeats.com Grass-fed beef, pasture raised chicken, and pork from small regenerative farms in Minnesota.

Embark Maple from B&E’s Trees embarkmaple.com Beyond breakfast, from Bourbon Barrel Aged to the new Maple Energy travel pouches.

Dogpatch Urban Gardens dogpatchurbangardens.com Urban farm sustainably producing organic veggie crops and healthy salad dressings.

SAUCES

Kalahari Foods, MN kalaharifoodmn.com Natural Peanut Brizzle with no chemicals or additives, just like my grandmother’s in Africa.

Enchanted Gardens of Minnesota Fb.me/Enchantedgardensmn Vinegar and honey produced in ways that protect our environment and pollinators.

Nikkolette’s Macarons Nikkolettesmacarons.com The best gluten free French macarons in the USA.

Good Fellows Goodies goodfellowsgoodies.com Thoughtfully made, naturally good granola.

Flavor Temptations FlavorTemptations.com Indian spice mixes and sauces that bring flavor, joy and energy into your kitchen.

Kinney Mini Farms kinneyminifarms.com Vegan Microgreen Pesto made with cashews and fresh microgreens. Lake Of Fire Foods lakeoffirefoods.com Perfect flavor/heat balance: Charred Jalapeño, Pineapple Habanero, Carolina Reaper. Madame Chu Delicacies madamechu.com Richly flavored condiment sauces like sambal that represent the flavors of Southeast Asia. Mostly Made mostly-made.com Meal Starters to create homemade, satisfying meals—ditch the stress and conquer cooking.

SNACKS & SWEETS Boettchers’s Pure Maple Syrup facebook.com/boettchersmaplesyrup/ Maple syrup and related products. Bonnie’s Balls bonniesballs.com Deep fried, cheese curd-filled pastries in two flavors: chive and bacon/beer. Chocolate San José-Minneapolis chocolatesanjose-minneapolis.com Single-source cacao products, grown sustainably and minimally processed.

Shokolate Haven etsy.com/shop/ShokolateHaven Handcrafted artisan chocolates made with locally sourced ingredients and quality chocolate. European Chocolate

™

Joe Mama’ BBQ Sauce & Seasons joemamabbq.com Small-batch BBQ sauce and seasoning blends—the joy of seasoning simplified.

Slide Gourmet Potato Chips Slidegourmetpotatochips.com Thick cut, boldly flavored potato chips! Not your everyday chip…. But it should be! Sweet Dough of Mine sweetdoughofmine.com Specializes in cakes, cookies, and cupcakes made to order, including gluten-free. The Bee Shed thebeeshed.com Pure, raw, natural honey harvested with seasonal blooms for unique flavor, scent, and color.

STAPLES 3 Cricketeers 3cricketeers.com Organic urban farm helping heal the environment with sustainable cricketbased superfoods! American Hazelnut Company americanhazelnutcompany.com Farmers growing local hazelnuts! We offer oil, flour, roasted nuts, and HazelSnackers. Boxes & Bags of Fun christines-kitchens.com Wisconsin made gift boxes full of curated goods from members of Something Special from Wisconsin.

Red Wing Mushrooms Redwingmushrooms.com Farmed and foraged fresh and dried gourmet mushrooms and delectable wild edibles. Rouge Smoked Foods rougesmokedfoods.com Maple-glazed pecans smoked with apple wood for a flavor just like bacon. Sailor Mercy sailormercy.com Wellness products handmade in small batches by a small, dedicated team. Sno Pac Foods snopac.com Grower and processor of organic frozen fruit and vegetables for retail, food service, and ingredient sales. Squash Blossom Farm squashblossomfarm.org Wood-fired sourdough breads, pastries, bean-to-bar chocolate; pizza on the farm in summer. Tortilleria Zepeda tortilleriazepeda.com Authentic Mexican corn tortillas made with locally-grown organic corn. TOSCA artisan crafts Toscamn.com Italian sauces, jams, jellys, pickles, cookies and crackers.

local-feast.org

Legends of Local From artisan cheeses to well-balanced sauces, FEAST! vendors have shared their time, talent and countless delights at the Marketplace for eight years. So we—with the help of People’s Food Co-op—honor these dedicated local foodmakers who give back to their communities by creating jobs, sourcing locally, and donating products to those in need.

Thank You!

Frequent FEASTers

(vendors who’ve attended 6+ years) American Hazelnut Co., americanhazelnutcompany.com Bare Honey, barehoney.com B&E’s Trees, bandestrees.com Blue Fruit Farms, bluefruitfarm.com CannonBelles Cheese, cannonbelles.com Carlson Roasting Co., carlsonroasting.com Country View Dairy, countryviewdairy.com CTL Foods, Inc., ctlfoods.com Ferndale Market, ferndalemarket.com Hidden Stream Farm, hiddenstreamfarm.com Kakookies, kakookies.com Kinney Creek Brewery, kinneycreekbrewery.com Midwest Elderberry Co-op, midwest-elderberry.coop Oak Valley Creations, oakvalleycreations.net Sara’s Tipsy Pies, sarastipsypies.com Sno Pac Foods, snopac.com Squash Blossom Farm, squashblossomfarm.org The Bee Shed, thebeeshed.com

People’s Choice Award Winners K-Mama Sauce (2016), kmamasauce.com Mama Stoen’s (2017–tie), mamastoens.com Millner Heritage Winery & Cidery (2017–tie), millnerheritage.com The Bee Shed (2018), thebeeshed.com CannonBelles Cheese (2019), cannonbelles.com Panache (2021), panacheapple.com

More Outstanding Award Winners

Feast Awards

519 1st Ave SW, Rochester, MN 55902 315 5th Ave S, La Crosse, WI 54601 pfc.coop 30

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

Agri-Cultured Foods, getagriculturedfoods.com B&E’s Trees, bandestrees.com Country View Dairy, countryviewdairy.com CTL Foods, Inc., ctlfoods.com Ferndale Market, ferndalemarket.com Kakookies, kakookies.com O’Brien’s Own Granola, obriensowngranola.com Sailor Mercy, sailormercy.com Sara’s Tipsy Pies, sarastipsypies.com Siren Shrub Co., sirenshrubs.com The Greensted, thegreensted.com

feast St

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Downtown La Crosse, WI and Rochester, MN www.pfc.coop 7 days, 8 a.m.–9 p.m. Open to the public • Free parking • Curbside Pick Up available!

Farmstead Fresh Dairy Products! Crafted in our creamery 50 feet from where our cows graze, we make the finest yogurt, sour cream, Barista's Best Milk, and frozen yogurt. 563-422-8633 countryviewdairy.com local-feast.org

No More “No’s”

Seasoned Specialty Food’s co-retailing model promotes small-batch makers By Mecca Bos

hen Kayla Yang Best went looking for a taste of her ancestral homeland of Laos in mainstream grocery stores, she found selections lacking. So, she decided to create her own convenience-style pho product, something easy and efficient for home cooks to prepare. While Kayla eventually got her Spice Kitchen Pho Noodles on shelves, she first got a big lesson in the disparities between who gets their product to market— and who does not. Travel just a little, and it becomes clear that people the world over can, and do, make a modest living cooking and serving the specialty dishes of their family traditions. But in the US, barriers to enter food markets can be severely limiting, favoring multinational corporations with the resources to navigate the bureaucracy and exorbitant costs associated with entry. The result is an extremely uneven playing field for small entrepreneurs and an overly homogeneous grocery selection for the rest of us.

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

Changing the high-barrier—low profit experience “Packaged food has really low margins for profit,” explains Kayla who experienced, first-hand, the vast barriers to getting a product on a store shelf and how, even when that goal is accomplished, makers may see only pennies on the dollar for their efforts. “The people who labor the most profit the least. And to me, that’s an injustice.”

The experience led her to open Seasoned Specialty Food Market where her mission is simple. “It’s about getting the profit of the product to the person that made that product.” And the way she does it is creative, innovative, and constantly evolving. Seasoned, a converted Grand Avenue home in St. Paul’s affluent Crocus Hill neighborhood, resembles a boutiquey storefront with its handsome landscaping, welcoming porch, and intriguing mix of specialty items that, at first glance, look destined for gift giving or a little selfindulgent snacking. But look a little closer. Seasoned holds pantry staples, meat, dairy, fresh produce and a revolutionary formula. Unlike most stores, Seasoned is a co-retailer, striving to give 100% of sales back to the food producer, as well as provide smallPictured, left to right: Keing (Kenny) Yang, Kayla Yang Best, and Tina Pfau-Gonzales at Seasoned Specialty Food Market help small-batch food makers enter and thrive in the market place.

batch makers a place to enter the market, so they may grow and find larger markets. Kayla calls the model “intercommunity commerce,” a community-conscious concept where all participants—maker, retailer and consumer—receive equitable benefit from commerce. Seasoned supports its model through charitable contributions and the store’s other stealth surprise: a deli that serves banh mi sandwiches, pho, Asian-flavored sipping broth, and other dishes not easily found in most market delis. The bulk of the products at Seasoned are women or BIPOC produced— condiments made by Somali women like Hoyo brand Basbaas (a spicy green sauce that will make you look askance at any average salsa in a jar) or Lovejoy’s Bloody Mary Mix, a Black-owned, awardwinning blend.

Grand Avenue, Grand Results Kayla’s location choice was not an accident. “Location is very important for intercommunity commerce, as it facilitates desired intercultural relations, while creating opportunities for marginalized businesses to bring their goods to neighborhoods and consumers that have traditionally been offlimits to them,” she explains. The way neighborhoods are laid out in the Twin Cities—and all across America— makes it difficult to discover what kind of culture or food is present just one neighborhood over from our own, unless we make a very concentrated effort to find out. “What are the products that are on the other side of the highway?” Kayla asks, rhetorically. Seasoned is here to answer

that question and to give makers the boost of confidence they need after hearing so many “no’s” from mainstream retail systems. “Tasteful, seasoned food is one of the oldest trades. We know how these things work—this is food. We know how to do this.” –Mecca Bos is a Twin Cities based food writer, chef, and podcaster. She focuses on BIPOC stories and uncovering marginalized stories.

Know of a food store in the region that specializes in local foods? Add them to the local-feast.org web directory here 4 Feast Awards

feast Stores

local-feast.org

rtc farmland access

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

The Mighty Elderberry A Perennial Powerhouse By Elena Gutierrez Byrne

uying local keeps dollars local. And with sustainably-grown crops or products made from them, our dollars also vote for environmentally-sound agricultural practices. One great regional crop to consider next time you’re at the farmer’s market or grocery is the American Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis. Offered in immune-boosting supplements, jams, syrup, even wine, buying this superfruit not only strengthens local economies, it enriches the environment and our health.

How are elderberries good for the environment? A thriving food system starts with healthy soil and water. And one important aspect of building both is leaving soil alone. Soil that’s tilled repeatedly and left bare for long periods loses its biological activity, available nutrients, even its ability to absorb and hold water. Tilling also creates erosion, reducing topsoil and damaging water quality. But perennial crops like elderberries, which produce fruit year after year without replanting or tilling, help the soil retain water and nutrients. They also capture atmospheric carbon that otherwise contributes to our growing climate crisis. Elderberries also host beneficial insects and pollinators. “Elderberry supports about 70 different native pollinators, though it’s mainly wind pollinated,” explains Chris Patton, founder and president of the Midwest Elderberry Cooperative (MEC), which offers technical and marketing assistance for its 100+ small-to-midsize elderberry growers. “You get pollinators not just on flowers but on the canes.”

perennial continued on page 37 local-feast.org

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

perennial continued from page 35 While the mighty elderberry is building healthier soil, it’s also creating more nutritious food. Recent scientific discoveries show that when soil is healthy—i.e. full of biological activity—it does a better job of making needed nutrients available to plants and, in turn, us.

operations like corn and soybeans, not perennial fruit. And, despite the fact that elderberries thrive in the Midwest, most consumer demand is met with imported (and often cheaper) European-grown varieties. Such market dominance challenges regional farmers because they can’t dive into new opportunities without reliable buyers.

“The relationship between agricultural practices, human health, and climate change is complex and dynamic,” says Erin Meyer, registered dietitian and founder of Basil’s Harvest, a Chicago-based nonprofit working to strengthen regenerative food systems. “The evidence is mounting that regenerative organic agriculture supports climate and critical ecosystem services, including soil health and produces food of higher nutrient quality.”

But there’s hope.

A 2022 University of Washington study found increasing evidence that farms combining no-till practices with cover crops and diverse rotations “produced crops with higher soil organic matter levels, soil health scores, and levels of certain vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals.” For more, read What Your Food Ate (2022) by David R. Montgomery and Anne Biklé and The Regenerative Agriculture and Human Health Nexus, at basilsharvest.org

Benefits of being in the cooperative include collaboration on tricky aspects like how to harvest the tiny berries, remove stems and seeds, and process it into a form for selling. “We market modest volumes of dried elderflowers and bulk frozen, dried, or freeze-dried berries along with bulk frozen raw juice harvested and/or produced by our members and grower partners,” says Chris.

So why doesn’t every farmer plant them?

Efforts at the University of Minnesota have also helped more people learn about the importance of perennial crops. The university’s Forever Green Initiative (FGI)—an interdisciplinary crop research platform housed within the UMN’s College of Food, Agricultural and

Long and short of it: there isn’t enough market coordination. The current Midwest farming system is fine-tuned for large-scale

Thanks to the work of Chris Patton and the MEC, the number of US growers has increased. “[MEC] now has members across the country from California to Virginia, with two-thirds in Minnesota and Wisconsin,” says Chris, whose organization is looking to increase its membership and the number of US elderberry growers.

Natural Resource Sciences—has worked with a variety of them for years. They’ve contributed to developing strong markets for elderberries, including identifying potential growers and options for efficient processing to make elderberries a more advantageous commercial crop. But the biggest factor in getting farmers to grow more perennial powerhouses like elderberries is you. “Consumer awareness of elderberry has exploded,” says Connie Carlson, Assistant Statewide Director for UMN-Extension Regional Sustainable Development Partnerships. “When we continue to educate consumers, there are real ripples in how companies make decisions about how they’ll do business, who they’ll work with, and what they’ll prioritize. From where I sit, I’ve seen that impact happen. Consumers really do have a role to play in all of this—driving demand.” Elderberries and other perennial fruits are just one of the rallying points reaching an exciting crescendo, especially in the Midwest. Growers banding together to produce these special crops will manifest benefits for the earth, our soil and our health. So, if you’re seeking resilient regional food supplies, better land stewardship, and economically strong communities, let your voice be heard: seek out local elderberries and other perennial crops. —Elena Gutierrez Byrne has a background in nutritional sciences and is a Local Foods Specialist with Renewing the Countryside, serving through FEAST! Local Foods Network, Wisconsin Women in Conservation, and Artisan Grain Collaborative efforts.

photo courtesy of the Savanna Institute

local-feast.org

Other locally-grown perennial crops you can buy today: There are many different perennial foods you can source locally. Some are old standbys like apples and blueberries, while others may be new to you, like Kernza® and Honeyberries.

KERNZA®

Here’s a handy guide on where to buy a few of them: Kernza®: perennialpantry.com; bakersfieldflour.com (Learn more at kernza.org)

HAZELNUTS

WILD RICE

Hazelnuts (plus flour & oil made from them): americanhazelnutcompany.com

Wild rice: nativeharvest.com; redlakenationfood.com

BERRIES

APPLES

Blueberries, black currants, elderberries: bluefruitfarm.com; honestlycranberry.com; midwest-elderberry.coop. Juneberries from Blue Fruit Farm (pictured above).

Apples: Minn., Iowa and Wisc. statewide, grower directories at minnesotagrown.com; iowaagriculture.gov; waga.com

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

AWESOME APP Features Surise Me

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Unsure where to start? We’ve got you covered. Tap Surprise Me for fascinating city facts and must-experience attractions.

Mayo Clinic Find Mayo Clinic building locations, parking and transportation info, patient travel and concierge services, and more.

Near Me Using your current location, the Near Me feature shows you the closest options for food, fun, or a place to stay.

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Reclaiming Our Ties The Minnesota Black Farmers Oral History Project A Conversation with Patrice Bailey, Mica L. Anders and Melvin Giles

BAILEY: According to the USDA’s 2017 typical top-down manner that benefits the ANDERS: One of the most fascinating Census of Agriculture, Black people make State’s interest of being portrayed as a nonup only 1.3% of the nation’s farmers. In institutional-racist system. Minnesota, the proportions are even more skewed with there being only 39 Black farmers. In 2021, the Minnesota Department of Agriculture (MDA) received a grant from the Minnesota Historical Society to conduct an oral history project about Black farmers in Minnesota.

ANDERS: The goal of the project was to learn more about the lives of the African American and African Immigrant farmers here in Minnesota. We wanted to hear about their struggles and successes of farming while Black. In oral history, we see each person as a living history. The interviewees are our narrators. This is their story and experiences, it is not just facts and figures.

takeaways for me was learning about so many multigenerational farmers who are actively reclaiming their ties to the land and their agricultural roots.

BAILEY: Prior to this project, we didn’t have

any tangible information about Black farmers from people who are still here. There is more work to do, and we hope to get funded for a second round of interviews. Meanwhile, this November, there will be a national agricultural census taken. We hope the numbers of Black farmers in Minnesota will increase. To learn more and hear the farmer’s stories, stay tuned at mda.state.mn.us/emerging-farmers.

GILES: We interviewed five narrators: one

because of her connection to Edina and her knowledge of Edina and homesteaders; another from Cambridge—a first-generation farmer; one from the Madeline Island area; one from Sandstone; and one from Alexandria. Each took a leap of faith and Ellen Maria Yancey and her husband owned a farm trust that their story would be recorded in Edina in the 1890s. Their history is referenced in and published in their words and not in the the project.

Angela Dawson, fourth-generation farmer in Sandstone, Minn., is co-founder & president of 40 Acre Co-op and one of the project’s five narrators.

Our thanks to Kim Heikkila at Spotlight Oral History who began the project and to:

—Patrice Bailey, Assistant Commissioner of Agriculture, Minnesota Department of Agriculture

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

—Mica L. Anders, professional genealogist and owner of Anders Genealogical Services

—Melvin Giles, co-coordinator of the Urban Farm & Garden Alliance (St. Paul), Farm to Early Care team member at Renewing the Countryside, and a veteran peace and diversity educator

Community. Connection. Content. Scan here to read articles, attend events and learn about local businesses.

Helping you preserve your family history for the next generation

AndersGenealogicalServices.com

local-feast.org

EXPLORE The West Coast of Wisccsin FFdie Trail Bay City

Disccc eative ffd as amazing as the views...

Maiden Rock

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�� natiially-recognized restaaants, vineyyds and wine tasting, to coffee shhs, bakkies, cafés, & wwld-famms tisan pie Pepin Nelson

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

CULINARY DESTINATIONS IN ONE OF MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN AMERICA

FFdie heaven the heavenly Great Rivv Road WWW.THEWESTCOASTOFWISCONSIN.COM

@ORGANICSBYLEE

@The West Coast of Wisconsin

HOTa visit OFF THE PASS with 3 local chefs Words by Amy Peterson

Francesca Hong Rep., Wisc. Legislature, Chef, Owner Morris Ramen Madison, WI 53703 (608) 416-5547 morrisramen.com What do you love about cooking? There is an organized chaos, always something you can’t control. It humbles and excites you. Morris Ramen: Slip. Slurp. Repeat. Our restaurant is a galley space with 40 seats where you can go for an escape. We have a small menu focused on nourishing soup and try to have options for different tastes. We also try to honor traditional Japanese techniques while focusing on Midwestern ingredients. It’s about bringing together different cultures and ideologies.

anywhere in Wisconsin and talk about how to make a brandy old fashioned or cook a steak. Regardless of our ideologies, the connection between people and food is universal. We’re only going to navigate this world if we see the humanity in each other. Spicy Spinach & Nori Pesto 1 lb spinach 2 packages nori (34 g.) ⅓ c. garlic, whole ⅓ c. raw cashews ½ c. light soy sauce ¼ c. orange juice Chili oil In a food processor, pack in nori and spinach. Add garlic, cashews, soy sauce and orange juice. Pulse, then hold until mixture is fully combined and smooth. Emulsify chili oil into the paste by pouring it slowly into the food processor while it’s running until it forms a pesto consistency. Pack into pint containers or jars. Can be kept in the fridge for up to 2 weeks or frozen for 2 months. Enjoy on noodles, salad, grilled bread or your favorite vegetables.

How do you use locally-produced ingredients? A lot of times it’s the toppings. Whatever is in season and at the [farmers] market. We use locally-grown sweet corn, year round, in our Miso ramen—either fresh or frozen. Our Kimchi is also seasonal with a lot of locally-sourced ingredients. Member of the Wisconsin State Assembly We had to shut the restaurant down at the beginning of the pandemic, and I went through a kind of loss. Grief makes you do crazy stuff. So I decided to run for office. As a chef/restaurant owner, I have tools that put me outside a political role. I can walk into a supper club

Chefs continued on pages 45 & 47 local-feast.org

Wisconsin Cottage Bill aka “The Cookie Bill” If you are a Baker and need

514 Main Street Colfax, WI 54730 www.ctlcolfax.com

Water Activity Testing or pH Testing Contact us Email: lab@ctlcolfax.com Phone: 715.962.3121

Jerky and Dried Meat Sticks

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

Baked and Snack Foods

Pickled Products

Ruth Hampton

Chef, Owner Trout River Catering Decorah, Iowa troutrivercatering.com

Bohemian meets Fusion Cuisine meets Iowa Farmgirl? Bohemian to me means eclectic, non-traditional, full of beauty, love, and fun. Fusion gives me the creative license to experiment with flavors and foods that may not have originated together. Originally from Iowa, I was introduced to the world of cooking in the restaurants of Minneapolis. Moving to Northeast Iowa has enabled me to dive into seasonal cooking and mix cuisine nouveau with rural realness. Advice for incorporating local foods • There is nothing like the flavor of local vegetables grown in good soil that were living up until a day before cooking them. Raw, blanched or roasted, then drizzled with a fresh herb dressing—voila!— the meal is highlighted with a delicious dish. • Be adaptable and try new things! • Consider ways to use a local ingredient based on the texture and flavor of a non-local ingredient you want to mimic. For example, reduced apple cider syrup tastes kind of like aged balsamic vinegar. In your work as a caterer and with Edible Alien Theater, you highlight a strong connection between art and food. What is that connection? Incorporating beauty, creativity, the senses, and stories into meals can feed our appreciation and nurture relationships, connections, and community. When you have a wonderful meal, especially with foods from the land nearby, don’t you feel more open, loving, and grateful for all this goodness? Catering—or any meal—is a performance and can be transformative to all involved.

Butternut Squash Fritters 6 c. butternut squash, peeled and grated 3/4 c. gluten free flour mix 3 eggs, whisked 2 1/2 tsp. dried thyme 1 1/2 – 2 tsp. smoked paprika 3/4 tsp. nutmeg, freshly grated or ground 1 1/2 tsp. salt Pinch of dried rosemary Black pepper, to taste 1 - 2 tbsp. oil for frying Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix all ingredients, except oil, in a large bowl. Heat a heavy frying pan over medium heat and add your favorite frying oil. Form batter into patties. When oil is hot, lay patties in the pan (don’t crowd) and fry a few minutes on each side. Fry in batches and replenish oil as needed. Bake fritters for approximately 20 minutes. Try them topped with applesauce, sour cream and bacon. Can be kept in the fridge or frozen for later use.

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LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

Ann Kim

Chef, Owner Vestalia Hospitality Minneapolis, MN vestaliahospitality.com Pizzaria Lola Sooki & Mimi Back Bar Young Joni Hello Pizza Favorite ingredients? I love leaning into the season. One pizza that guests look forward to is the Fresh Tomato Pie at Pizzeria Lola. There’s just nothing like a juicy ripe Minnesota tomato, and this pizza celebrates that. The key is to keep seasonal specials simple to allow the quality and beauty of the local produce to come through. Korean BBQ Pizza Interestingly enough, it’s the most popular pizza at Pizzeria Lola and Young Joni. I originally put it on the menu as a special, and when I removed it, guests called in demanding its return! It’s been our top seller since and has become my signature pizza. Flavor choices? My background as a Korean immigrant and upbringing in the Midwest play a huge role in my palate and how I cook. I tend to gravitate towards flavors that are bold, funky and spicy. I love to experiment with flavor combinations to create a surprising take on a traditional dish.

Roasted Cauliflower with Calabrian Chile 1 medium head cauliflower, cut into 1 1/2-inch florets 1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (and zest for garnish) 2 tsp. diced Calabrian chiles (found in Italian specialty markets) Flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped, for garnish Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, toss cauliflower florets with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place in a large roasting pan or baking sheet and roast until florets are lightly charred and cooked through, 1520 minutes. Remove from oven and toss with the lemon juice and chiles. Garnish with zest and parsley.

Staying inspired I’m usually most inspired by food that has soul, where you can taste the love, history and story behind a dish. Some of my most memorable dining experiences haven’t been at fancy Michelin-starred restaurants but rather from a roadside taco cart in Mexico City, a handcut noodle stall in a food market in Seoul, Korea, or a hot bowl of doenjang jjigae and perfectly cooked rice at my mother’s table. Learn more about this James Beard Award-Winning chef in Netflix’s series “Chef ’s Table Pizza,” episode three.

—Amy Peterson is a Stillwater, Minn. writer who loves exploring local food. local-feast.org

“YOUR DIET IS YOUR BANK ACCOUNT. GOOD FOOD CHOICES ARE GOOD INVESTMENTS.” Bethenny Frankel Foresight Bank is proud to support healthy food choices and sustainable living. Stop in to learn more about how Foresight Bank invests in you and our community.

FRIENDLY SERVICE — FORWARD THINKING

www.Foresight.Bank 507-534-3131 Plainview / Rochester / Member FDIC

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

Dooley-ize Your Pantry Creating a local pantry may feel daunting, but it needn’t be done all at once. To demonstrate how a few essentials can make all the difference, FEAST! held a local foods contest in May. Meeghan Passer of Minneapolis won and received a bonanza of staples (generously donated by FEAST! vendors and pictured below) plus a consultation with James Beard AwardWinning author Beth Dooley.

pancakes and waffles. Top them with Blue Fruit Farm jam from Winona, Minn. Spice up scrambled eggs, grilled meats, tacos and salsa with Cry Baby Craigs (Minneapolis). This unique fermented hot sauce offers tangy heat with a real kick.

Here’s how Beth recommended putting Meeghan’s winnings to delicious use: Smude’s Sunflower Oil (Pierz, Minn.) is an easy substitute for olive oil. It makes a wonderful salad dressing and enhances stir-fries and sautes. Cold pressed, it’s also high in heart-healthy oils. Whisk Enchanted Gardens vinegar and The Bee Shed honey with Smude’s oil for a great vinaigrette or to brighten a grain dish. Enchanted Gardens vinegar is fermented in Minnetonka, Minn. from local fruit. The Bee Shed Honey (Oronoco, Minn.) brightens drinks, dressings, sauces, roasted vegetables and grilled meat. Perennial Pantry (Burnsville, Minn.) and Baker’s Field Flour

Chef and author Beth Dooley

Pancake Mix (Minneapolis) make onestep pancakes and waffles, and because they contain a little leavening, I use them in muffins and coffee cakes. The Baker’s Field mix is made with Minnesota heritage flour while Perennial Pantry’s is a wonderful introduction to Kernza®—a perennial grain that’s good for the land and our health! NETZRO’s mixes, made in St. Paul from upcycled brewery and distillery grains, have a wonderful malty flavor for

To add more plant-based proteins to your diet, try whole grains and dry bean combinations. Meadowlark Organics (Ridgeway, Wisc.) is a great source for both. I like to cook a big batch and keep them in the fridge to toss into salads, soups, stews, chili, tacos, and casseroles. For a tart burst to salads, cereals, casseroles, and baked goods—or as a snack straight out of the bag—try dried, unsweetened cranberries from Honestly Cranberries (Wisconsin Rapids, Wisc.) Buttery thin toffee from Heavenly Treats (St. Cloud, Minn.) and the thick-cut, bold flavors of Slide Gourmet Potato Chips (Madison, Wisc.) made from potatoes grown in Hancock, Wisc. round out just a few of the snacks offered by local makers. Even wellness drinks and syrups—like those by Jajja Wellness, Sailor Mercy, and Panache—are made in the Twin Cities.

local-feast.org

The Artisan Grain Collaborative is a network of farmers, millers, maltsters, bakers, chefs, food manufacturers, brewers, distillers, researchers & advocates working together to promote a regenerative food system.

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

www.graincollaborative.com @artisangraincollab

@graincollab

hen we opened our doors back in 1983, we knew that a big part of our focus would be on supporting local growers, businesses and nearby communities. It’s always been important to our family to support honest, hard-working people who go the extra mile to ensure a higher quality product and who adhere to the same higher standards that we do, including sustainable practices.

a jumping off point from which they’ve achieved even greater success on a regional or even national level. We’ve helped hundreds of producers share their goodies with the Twin Cities for over 35 years. Could yours be our next big find? If you’re a doer as well as a dreamer, you could be the new partner we’re looking for. The gourmet grocery game is a tough one. It takes not only a great product but also a willingness to learn, grow and change. It takes time and hard work. Having a partner like Kowalski’s can make it easier. In addition to helping our partners learn the ins and outs of the retail food biz, we work with them through all manner of tricky issues like labeling, packaging, ingredient sourcing and so much more to ensure they can compete with big name brands.

Our local connection is extremely important when it comes to bringing you the freshest produce in the marketplace. Whenever possible, we pick the best local growers to ensure your fruits and vegetables are superior in quality and always at the peak of their freshness. Over the years, we’ve had the privilege to help launch and foster many area businesses, which has led to a growing number of lifelong relationships. Most of our artisan producers started small, selling privately to family and friends. More than a few dipped their toe in the waters of retail at their local farmers’ market. Eventually a call to Kowalski’s became their “big break,”

Are you a local producer and interested in getting your products in our stores? We would love to meet with you and discuss a possible partnership.

F OO y o F J E O G

11 Twin Cities Locations

scan here>> OO

kowalskis.com

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Good Food Orgs You Should Know... Hundreds of organizations throughout our region are working for food system change—from insecurity and injustice to helping farmers and food businesses thrive. We could fill the magazine with their names, but we don’t have the room, so here are a few highlights: American Farmland Trust farmland.org Protecting farmland, promoting sound farming practices, and keeping farmers on the land.

Food Finance Institute foodfinanceinstitute.org Helping food-focused businesses raise the money they need to grow

Artisan Grain Collaborative Midwest graincollaborative.com A stakeholder network strengthening a Midwest grainshed

Healthy Harvest of North Iowa healthyharvestni.com Connecting & educating to support the local food system

Big River Farms, a program of The Food Group thefoodgroupmn.org Incubator farm supporting BIPOC, New American, and female farmers

Iowa Food Hub iowafoodhub.com A local food distribution business serving the greater Decorah area

Community Hunger Solutions community-hunger-solutions.org Connecting local food to community members who face barriers to access

Instutute for Agriculture and Trade Policy (IATP) iatp.org At the intersection of policy & practice to ensure fair + sustainable food, farm & trade systems. Kilimo kilimominnesota.org Incubator for farmers of African descent, offering mentorship & farmland access support. Latino Economic Development Center (LEDC) ledcmn.org Working to transform our community by creating economic opportunities for Latinos.

Feeding Wisconsin helps Wisconsin farmers help Wisconsin families. We proudly serve as Wisconsin’s largest charitable response network working to end hunger, partnering with Wisconsin farmers and producers to ensure no Wisconsinite goes hungry.

Feeding Wisconsin feedingwi.org Working to end hunger, improve health and strengthen communities

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

Marbleseed Marbleseed.org Supporting Midwest organic and sustainable farmers through farmer-led events & educational resources Michael Fields Agricultural Institute michaelfields.org Increasing agricultural resilience and building more equitable food systems Minnesota Farmers’ Market Association (MFMA) mfma.org Providing programs & leadership to support Minnesota farmers’ markets

Our most sincere

Minnesota Institute for Sustainable Agriculture (MISA) misa.umn.edu Bringing together interests across UMN to develop & promote sustainable ag in MN and beyond.

Minnesota Institute for Sustainable Agriculture

Practical Farmers of Iowa practicalfarmers.org We equip farmers to build resilient farms and communities, and believe that healthy, local food is a key part of that. REAP Food Group reapfoodgroup.org Working for a future where good food, grown well, is accessible to allin Wisconsin Renewing the Countryside renewingthecountryside.org Practical assistance and support for rural entrepreneurs and farmers Rooted rootedwi.org Increasing equitable access to land, fresh food, & learning opportunities throughout Wisconsin Southern Minnesota Initiative Foundation smifoundation.org Providing resources, networking & technical assistance to food & farming entrepreneurs Savanna Institute savannainstitute.org Research, education & outreach to support the growth of diverse, perennial agroecosystems in the Midwest. Sustainable Farming Association of Minnesota sfa-mn.org Advancing environmental stewardship, economic resilience and strong, diverse communities through farmer-to-farmer networking and more. The Good Acre thegoodacre.org Strengthening farmers, food makers & communities through good food. The Village Agricultural Cooperative

Thank You

Anders Genealogical Services.........................................................................41 Artisan Grain Collaborative............................................................................50 Beruck Studios...................................................................................................44 Brand Yourself ..................................................................................................17 By the Yard...........................................................................................................8 Cannon Falls Chamber of Commerce..........................................................19 Cannon River Catering.....................................................................................19 Cannon River Winery.......................................................................................18 Cannon Roots....................................................................................................18 Cannon Valley Grown......................................................................................34 Cannon Valley Trail .........................................................................................19 CannonBelles................................................................................................18,34 Christine’s Kitchen............................................................................................39 Churchill Reserve..............................................................................................19 Commercial Testing Laboratory ....................................................................44 Compeer Financial............................................................................................56 Country View Dairy.........................................................................................31 CTL Foods, Inc.................................................................................................48 DisTing Sauces..................................................................................................19 Embark Maple by B&E’s Trees......................................................................38 Experience Rochester.......................................................................................39 Ferndale Market.............................................................................................5, 19 First Farmers & Merchants Bank...................................................................26 Foresight Bank...................................................................................................48 GreenSeam.........................................................................................................15 Hidden Stream Farm .......................................................................................46 KIMT..................................................................................................................46 Knotty Woodpecker ........................................................................................34 Kowalski’s Market...................................................................................... 22, 51 Lorentz Meats....................................................................................................18 Market Entry Fund...........................................................................................26 Midwest Elderberry..........................................................................................36 Minnesota Dept of Agriculture......................................................................16 Minnesota Farmers Union ..............................................................................55 MN 97.5..............................................................................................................41 Nick’s Diner ......................................................................................................19 Nikkolette’s Macarons......................................................................................46 Niman Ranch ....................................................................................................10 People’s Food Co-op........................................................................................31 Raw Bistro .........................................................................................................19 Rochester Women Magazine...........................................................................41 Renewing the Countryside...............................................................................10 Royal Lee Organics...........................................................................................42 Sailor Mercy.......................................................................................................38 Santa Martha Cafe.............................................................................................18 Savanna Institute...............................................................................................36 Seasoned Specialty Foods Market................................................................2,33 SnoPac................................................................................................................31 Southern Minnesota Initiative Foundation...................................................25 Squash Blossom Farm......................................................................................48 Sweet Harvest Foods........................................................................................19 The Bee Shed.....................................................................................................50 West Coast of Wisconsin.................................................................................42 Wisconsin Women in Conservation...............................................................12

rochvillage.org

Urban community garden helping diverse farmers grow & market culturally relevant food. local-feast.org

LAST

Rekindling a Regional Beer Economy

CALL

By John Clarke

t’s hard to imagine a more idyllic crop than barley just before harvest. The waving strands of gold are emblematic of beer’s agricultural origins. During the 19th century, barley was a major crop in the Midwest, grown to supply emerging breweries that served the influx of European immigrants. Many brewers purchased grain directly from farmers and malted it themselves.

creating a need for additional crops in the Midwest to “ensure a strong domestic barley supply,” according to Ashley McFarland, Vice President and Technical Director at the American Malting Barley Association (AMBA). New varieties, developments in disease resistance and the use of barley as a winter cover crop also make it an increasingly practical option for Midwest farms.

Unfortunately, barley’s local ties to brewing unraveled long ago under the forces of Prohibition, market consolidation, technological innovations, and disease— such that domestic production became primarily limited to the Western U.S. But now, a new cohort of Midwest farmers, maltsters and brewers are working to reconnect the ties between local barley and brewing to stimulate rural economies, shorten supply chains, and enhance the beer experience.

“In the 19th Century, the local brewery was often a center of the economic life of rural communities.

Growing cereal grains Noreen Thomas of Doubting Thomas Farm in Moorhead, Minn., has continued the long-held cereal grain traditions of northern Minnesota since 1997. “I enjoy seeing my grains in a beer produced locally,” says Noreen, who has established relationships with Midwest malthouses and breweries eager to use local ingredients. “The connection to local producers adds to the culture of the area. It brings a flavor, and a connection to the land and to the farmers tending to the grains.” At the same time, some factors that drove barley production out of the Midwest are being mitigated. Climate change has made weather in the West less predictable, 54

LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022

They provided a local market for barley, and a place to malt it.” —Beer Historian Doug Hoverson But for brewing, grains are often malted— the process of steeping, germinating, and drying it so the starches can be converted into fermentable sugars. Unfortunately, malthouses are harder to access now than in barley’s heyday.

Craft maltsters and brewers Only in the last decade has the craft malt industry emerged to “help regionalize the beer supply chain,” says Jesse Bussard, Executive Director of the Craft Maltsters Guild, whose organization supports the growing community of artisans malting grain at a scale suited for area farmers. “We’ve grown to 70 members in ten years, making malting more approachable to area farmers.”

To be in the Craft Maltsters Guild, malthouse members must source 50% of their grain from within a 500-mile radius. It’s something Guild member Maltwerks—a craft malthouse in Detroit Lakes, Minn.—is happy to do. “We want our focus to be on quality grain as well as traceability, so brewers know exactly where their products are coming from,” says sales manager Dan Murphy, who buys grain from North Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin. Brewers who source at least 10% of their malt from Guild members like Maltwerks are eligible for the Craft Malt Certified™ Seal. Donovan Seitz, owner of Kinney Creek Brewing in Rochester, Minn., is one of a growing number of beer makers participating in the program. “We are proud to be Craft Malt Certified,” he says. “Each of our hand-crafted beers leaves the brewery with a custom label branded with the Craft Malt Certified Seal.” As Midwest barley production continues to ramp up and more maltsters and brewers gain access to these rich, local grains, beer drinkers can enjoy a truly local beer with their dollars reaching beyond the tap room. —John Clarke is the Brewing & Distilling Working Group Coordinator with the Artisan Grain Collaborative, a network of farmers, processors and advocates working to promote regional grains in the Midwest. Background Image: Western Brewer Cover, 1878 Credit - Doug Hoverson Private Collection

Standing for Agriculture, Working for Farmers

Building a Resilient Local Food System www.minnesotacooks.org

Farmer-to-Table Dining www.farmerskitchenandbar.com 750 S. 2nd Street Suite 100 Minneapolis, MN

Connecting Farmers & Wholesale Buyers

www.minnesotafoodshed.org

Farmer-Forward Writings & Chef-Driven Recipes

Available wherever books are sold!

Learn More, Become A Member

@mnfarmersunion local-feast.org

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LOCAL FEAST! • VOLUME FIVE • 2022