LOCAL FOODS
LOCAL FOODS MAGAZINE & MARKETPLACE
MAGAZINE
Essential Workers 2020
Soil Sisters Pint-Size Produce Taking the Farm Road
FREE VOL.3 2020
local-feast.org
1
The Farmer and the Chef
Farm Fresh Minnesota Recipes and Stories is a collection of farmer-forward writings and chef-driven recipes, giving readers an inside look into the life of food and farming in the Land of 10,000 Lakes. Idyllic stretches of Minnesota farmland and cosmopolitan cities yield unique food partnerships and delicious farm-to-table feasts.
Available May 2021 at a bookstore near you
Minnesota Cooks™, an education and outreach program of Minnesota Farmers Union, supports and promotes our local food systems through farm to table partnerships and opportunities to buy direct from farmers.
Minnesota Farmers Union Standing for Agriculture, Working for Farmers
a program of Minnesota Farmers Union
minnesotacooks.org 2
FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
mfu.org
TABLE of CONTENTS 6
10
Taking the Farm Road
18
Essential Workers
30
24
Farmers’ Market Pivot
Soil Sisters
FEAST! Marketplace
35
Pint-Size Produce
27
FEAST! 2019 Awards
40 Chef Profiles
Growing with FEAST!
42
14
44 Foodshed Initiatives
Minnesota Cooks
46 Take the Pledge local-feast.org
3
FEAST
LOCAL FOODS MAGAZINE
Welcome to volume three of
FEAST! Local Foods Magazine.
Publisher:
FEAST
LOCAL FOODS NETWORK
Editor: Marlene Petersen Managing Editor: Elena Byrne Creative Director: Brett Olson Contributing Writers: Claudine Arndt Patrice Bailey Kelli Boylen Grace Brogan Katie Godfrey Demmer Beth Dooley Lisa Kivirist Brita Moore Marlene Petersen
Photographers: Tiffany Alexandria of Choochoo-ca-Chew, Ashley Aukes of Beruck Studios, Scott Boylen, John D. Ivanko, Katie Cannon, Ashley Becerra, Brett Olson
What a rollercoaster 2020 has been! The ride is certainly not over, but one thing we learned early on is how essential local food is, from short supply chains to knowing your farmer and serving your community. We saw how food workers geared up, changed course and persevered to produce the food on which we all rely. The 7th Annual FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace is also adjusting. We’ll still be connecting you to local food makers and growers but in a hybrid format. Online sales for drive-thru pickup will open in November, culminating at the limitedcapacity event on Sunday, Dec. 6 at Graham Park, Olmsted County Fairgrounds, Rochester, Minn. Flip to p.24 to learn more. Elsewhere in these pages, you’ll find stories demonstrating the ways local food connects us: from the dedication of essential food workers (p.18) to the first drive-thru farmers market in Minnesota (p.42) to food-and farm-based enrichment for children in early care settings (p.14). This issue also explores the important efforts underway to address racial inequality in agriculture (p.6). There’s great work being done, and we want to celebrate that, along with Soil Sisters (p. 10), growing food businesses (p.30, 44) and chefs committed to working with local farmers (p.35, 40). We’re getting through unprecedented times—together. If you haven’t already, take the Local Foods Pledge (p.46). Thanks for being a local foods fan!
Cover: Chef Mateo Mackbee (see profile, p.35) Warmly, supports local food with his partner and coowner, Erin2637 Lucas, g the Countryside, 27th through Ave. S., their Suiterestaurant, 17, Minneapolis, MN The 55406 FEAST! Local Foods Network Krewe (St. Joseph, Minn.) and their nonprofit www.local-feast.com Model Citizen Youth Farm (New London, Minn.), iammodelcitizen.org. Photo by Katie Cannon Photography. /localfeastnetwork @Local_Feast
LocalFeast
FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace Partners & Sponsors Premier Partners
Additional Sponsors
We treat our turkeys like they’re part of the family. Because since 1939, they have been. We proudly raise our turkeys in much the same way our family has for over 80 years, since our founders – Fern and Dale Peterson – settled on our farm in Cannon Falls, Minnesota. Free-range. Antibiotic-free. Naturally processed.
Silver Tablespoon: Ferndale Market Wooden Spoon: Compeer Financial Friends of FEAST!: The Greensted, E-1 Collaborative Reserve your fresh Thanksgiving turkey for pickup at our on-farm market in Cannon Falls or use our online locator to find our turkey near you.
FerndaleMarket.com
4
FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
We treat our turkeys like they’re part of the family. Because since 1939, they have been. We proudly raise our turkeys in much the same way our family has for over 80 years, since our founders – Fern and Dale Peterson – settled on our farm in Cannon Falls, Minnesota. Free-range. Antibiotic-free. Naturally processed. Reserve your fresh Thanksgiving turkey for pickup at our on-farm market in Cannon Falls or use our online locator to find our turkey near you.
FerndaleMarket.com local-feast.org
5
Taking the Farm Road
By Patrice Bailey, Assistant Commissioner, Minnesota Department of Agriculture
6
FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
My journey into agriculture is a unique one. I grew up in Harlem, New York, about five blocks from the famous Apollo Theatre—a major force in the emergence of jazz, swing, bebop, R&B, gospel, blues and soul with music greats like Ella Fitzgerald, Sammy Davis Jr., Gladys Knight and Lauryn Hill—but far from an agricultural hub. During my senior year of high school, my mom and I were talking about college. She asked what I wanted to study. I told her I wanted to be a lawyer. “There are too many lawyers out there,” she replied. “What about agriculture?” “I don’t want to be a farmer.” I was a young, city slicker. “Patrice, agriculture is so much more than farming. It includes more than you can ever imagine.” The conversation stuck with me. I didn’t realize at the time it would change the very direction of my life. I headed off to Prairie View A&M University, a historically Black college in Prairie View, Texas. While there, I attended the World Food Expo in Chicago and met Dan Glickman, Secretary of Agriculture under the Clinton administration. As we walked into the Expo, my preconceived notions were shattered. I saw companies I never considered to be a part of agriculture: Glacier Water, Coca-Cola, Pepperidge Farm. I began to recognize the wisdom in my mom’s words. Farming was part of agriculture but so were multinational businesses, research institutions and technology. My worldview of agriculture was wide open, and I wanted to be a part of it all.
Minnesota Department of Agriculture Eventually, my path led to my current role as the Assistant Commissioner for the Minnesota Department of Agriculture (MDA). I oversee outreach, agricultural marketing and development, dairy and meat inspection, and food and feed safety. I have witnessed how crucial agriculture is in all of
our lives. With the stagnant farm economy, food deserts, and mobile grocery stores that have popped up in the aftermath of George Floyd’s death, it’s more important than ever to focus the MDA’s agency-wide outreach activities to farmers, ranchers, and stakeholders who can benefit from our programs and services. Too often at the MDA we hear, “I didn’t know you had a program that could help me.” Unfortunately, that message often comes from underserved communities. It is important that we listen to our stakeholders and act to address disparities when we hear about or see them. It is imperative we foster cultural understanding and minimize distrust of government agencies. To that end, the MDA has been working on bolstering our partnerships with organizations that represent underserved communities. MDA Commissioner, Thom Petersen, asked me to form an Emerging Farmer Working Group to ensure we are reaching ethnic and racial minorities, women, and LBGTQ+ farmers, ranchers and landowners/operators, as well as new or beginning farmers and ranchers including youth and veterans. In the fall of 2019, the Working Group held listening sessions across the state and invited emerging farmers and their advocates to attend. The goal of these sessions was to identify the needs of emerging farmers and the barriers keeping them from entering agriculture. This information was compiled into a report with recommendations for the legislature to act on. The goals from the listening sessions became a list of strategies that will advance the success and sustainability of farmers who traditionally face barriers to the education and resources necessary to build profitable agricultural businesses. In May 2020, the Emerging Farmers Working Group was signed into law, and now the “real” work begins. Since the creation of the Working Group, we have begun the membership application process. We are currently finalizing foundational components of the Working Group to make sure the process of applying is available to all without barriers (see mda.state.mn.us/emerging-farmersworking-group-seeks-members). Together, we will continue
to make inroads into empowering the lives of those emerging farmers whose voices have been traditionally unheard in Minnesota. Just as there is diversity of business types within a strong agriculture ecosystem, we’re all best served and represented by cultural, racial and ethnic diversity in our farming communities.
Starting a Conversation I didn’t grow up dreaming of a future in agriculture. If it hadn’t been for that conversation with my mom many years ago, I don’t know if I ever would have ventured down this path. It’s hard to aspire to be in agriculture if you’ve never seen anyone who looks like you in the profession. Before COVID-19, I was able to visit a lot of schools across our beautiful state. Along the way, I met kids who knew exactly where they were going in life, as well as those without goals and dreams for their future. Many didn’t see agriculture as a viable career choice because they had a limited view of what it is. When I talked with them, we discussed agriculture being more than just farming. I stressed, especially with kids of color, that there is so much more to it than farmers in overalls. By starting conversations like these and knocking down barriers for emerging farmers today, we can and will create a future in which all kids can envision themselves. Patrice Bailey is the first Assistant Commissioner of color in Minnesota Department of Agriculture history. His groundbreaking report on the Emerging Farmers Working Group won the 2020 Notable Document Award in the category of agriculture from the National Conference of State Legislatures. Prior to this appointment, Patrice served the Twin Cities in positions that focused on bridging underrepresented communities of color to available resources, as well as advocating for them legislatively at the Capitol.
“Minnesota agriculture is made stronger by our diversity. I’m excited to see farmers from every community engage in an industry that is foundational to our state’s culture and economy....As we build the agricultural industry of the future, it’s critical that all voices and ideas are at the table, and I commend the Minnesota Department of Agriculture for starting this conversation.” —Lt. Governor Peggy Flanagan FARM ROAD continued on page 8 local-feast.org
7
Preserving & Sharing Cultural Foodways Just as the MDA’s Emerging Farmers Working Group seeks to support underrepresented farmers and remove barriers to agriculture, many regional groups are working to counteract systemic racial injustice through education, advocacy and leadership. Here are just a few:
Naima’s Farm, St. Paul, Minn. naimasfarm.com Naima Dhore recently established the SomaliAmerican Farmers Association and offers culturally-specific guidance and education on her 20 acres. Frogtown Farm, St, Paul, Minn. frogtownfarm.org One of the largest urban farms in the country, this certified-organic, demonstration farm fosters education and innovation in the heart of the Frogtown neighborhood.
North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems, Minneapolis, Minn. www.natifs.org Co-founded by Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson, owners of The Sioux Chef, NATIFS addresses economic and health crises affecting Native communities by re-establishing Native foodways, including The Indigenous Food Lab, a nonprofit restaurant, education & training center. Dream of Wild Health, Hugo, Minn. dreamofwildhealth.org Dream of Wild Health restores health and well-being in the Native community by recovering knowledge of and access to healthy Indigenous foods, medicines and lifeways. Latino Economic Development Center, St. Paul, Minn. www.ledcmn.org/agriculture LEDC provides technical assistance, access to capital and markets, and business development to help Latino farmers start and grow their farm businesses. Cala Farm, Turtle Lake, Wisc. calafarm.wordpress.com Cala Farm grows certified-organic vegetables for the Twin Cities’ food co-ops and Co-op Partners’ Warehouse. Off the farm, co-owner Rodrigo Cala helps the LEDC and other Latino and immigrant farmers. Hmong American Farmers Association, St. Paul, Minn. www.hmongfarmers.com HAFA works to alleviate challenges Hmong farmers face, including access to land, equipment, capital, alternative markets and training to help grow their businesses. 8
FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Dawn 2 Dusk Farm, Cambridge, Minn. dawn2duskfarm.com Moses Momanyi and Lonah Onyancha share farming experiences with youth and fellow immigrants on their 20 acres, offering mentorships and demonstration plots. Grow a Young Black Farmer in Minnesota www.gofundme.com/f/blackland2020 Crowdfunding campaign created by Lizy Bryant to purchase 25 acres as a resource for agriculture and art to serve Black Minnesotans and their families. Loveland Acres Farm, Elkhorn, Wisc. lovelandacresfarm.org Scarlett Salamone, city teacher turned country farmer, offers farm experiences for students, sharing stories, lessons and love.
ORGANICALLY GROWN FAIRLY TRADED ROASTED IN MINNEAPOLIS
SAVE 15% ON YOUR ONLINE ORDER USE CODE: FEAST15 AT CHECKOUT PEACECOFFEE.COM/SHOP
local-feast.org
9
SOIL SISTERS Cultivating change one potluck at a time By Lisa Kivirist Photo by John D. Ivanko Photography
Ten years ago, a dozen farm women in Green County, Wisc., came together for a meal. They had no agenda, committees or membership fees—just a desire for connection amongst kindred spirits who shared a passion for the soil, community and healthy local food. They had no idea that a simple potluck would result in Soil Sisters, a collaborative with over 200 participants who have created an award-winning on-farm event, started new businesses, and changed public policy.
10 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Soil Sisters’ Roots
“We started planning the business a few months before the pandemic,” says Storm, “By the time the country was in lockdown, we had received such huge support from our fellow Soil Sisters that we couldn’t press pause. They were counting on us to be ready for fall harvest, and their enthusiasm was the security we needed to carry on.”
In 2012, Soil Sisters began hosting an on-farm event the first weekend in August. It began with tours on six, womenowned farms. Garnering community praise, it grew into the largest women-farmer led event of its kind in the country and now includes a full weekend of on-farm workshops, culinary experiences and bus tours, involving over 20 women-owned farms. The groundswell of interest, from a growing contingency Soil Sisters has also inspired several of its participants to run of women, meant the project needed support. It found it for public office, including county board and county clerk. this year with Renewing the Countryside, “My motivation to run for county a Minnesota-based nonprofit that helps board came when there was a large bolster local farming communities. The industrial dairy angling to start in my new partnership brought grant-funding area. I started attending related meetings opportunities and other resources to to voice my environmental concerns over continue Soil Sisters’ grassroots cultivation. the impact this operation would have,” Edible Madison With potlucks and farm events on shares Erica Roth of Ewetopia Hill Farm hiatus during COVID-19, Soil Sisters’ in Albany, Wisc. “But my inspiration listserv operates as a lifeline for its came from the women in our Soil members—with ideas on everything Sisters community who enthusiastically from pivoting to new markets when supported me from the start. Knowing restaurant sales dry up to finding local they had my back gave me the meat processors. confidence to take on—and successfully defeat—a long-time incumbent.” Kriss Marion of Circle M Farm in Blanchardville, Wisc., found similar motivation from Soil Sisters. She When they are in full swing, Soil Sisters hopes to bring a new voice to the State gatherings are far more than stereotypical Assembly, as she looks to win a seat held potlucks. They create a collaborative space from which new by a long-term incumbent. businesses emerge, like Landmark Creamery, an award“Campaigns can be brutal when you’re in the public winning cheesemaking venture in Paoli, Wisc., between Anna eye and have all sorts of criticism and negativity thrown at Landmark and Anna Thomas Bates. you, especially when you are promoting change that would Landmark and Bates met at a Soil Sisters potluck shake up the agricultural status quo,” says Marion. “Our while Landmark was earning her cheesemaking license and Soil Sisters group is my lifeline of positive energy to keep launching her own operation. She needed a partner to help advocating for change.” with the business and marketing. Bates, a savvy food writer, As our rural communities evolve and adapt, the need gladly filled that role. for local connections and supportive colleagues remains “We’re both moms with kids in the same school district, higher than ever. Groups like Soil Sisters play a vital but we never met until these women-in-agriculture potlucks,” role in stewarding the land, championing local food and recalls Landmark. “Even if we had met in a school setting, shaping the future. To learn more about how Soil Sisters I’m not sure we would have had the opportunity to connect is celebrating rural life and meeting community needs, in a way that we did over cheese and wine. The potluck visit renewingthecountryside.org/women_in_ag and provides a welcoming, supportive setting through which soilsisterswi.org. women like myself and Anna feel comfortable sharing our big-picture visions and dreams.” The latest Soil Sisters-inspired start-up is Driftless Lisa Kivirist was a founding member of Soil Sisters and currently serves Traditional Tannery, a venture offering natural tanning for as project director. She and her family run Inn Serendipity Farm and sheepskins and goat hides. Bethany Storm, Brandi Bonde, B&B in Wisconsin, completely powered by renewable energy. She has and Danielle Dockery, the visionaries behind the tannery, also co-authored a range of books on food and sustainability with her recognized an opportunity because of increasing numbers husband, John Ivanko, including Homemade for Sale, Farmstead Chef, of small-scale farmers and homesteaders looking to preserve and Soil Sisters. the skins of their animals.
Stepping up to Leadership
Budding Business Opportunities
The hard-working women of Soil Sisters won magazine’s 2018 Local Food Hero award for their work in producing food and fiber while stewarding the landscape.
local-feast.org 11
r unt ysi
win ne g
de • re
Special thanks to Susan and Roger at Squash Blossom Farm for humoring us with this whimsical Minnesota-shaped pizza! renewingthecountryside.org/on_farm_food_service
the co
12 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Come & Get It! Imagine yourself sitting in the garden on a fall afternoon with a glass of farmstead mead and a fresh slice of wood-fired pizza topped with fresh ingredients harvested directly from the gardens around you! THAT’S a “Pizza Farm!”
Alpha and Omega Farm Princeton, MN alphaomegafarm.co
Clover Bee Farm
Shafer, MN cloverbeefarm.com
DreamAcres
Wykoff, MN dreamacresfarm.org
Pleasant Grove Pizza Farm Waseca, MN pleasantgrovepizzafarm.com
Red Barn Farm of Northfield Northfield, MN redbarnfarmofnorthfield.com
Squash Blossom Farm Oronoco, MN squashblossomfarm.org
Grandview Valley The Back 40 Farm Willmar, MN Winery Pizza Belview, MN gvwinery.com
theback40mn.com
Two Pony Gardens Long Lake, twoponygardens.com
local-feast.org 13
PINT SIZE PRODUCE Farm to Early Care & Education: raising healthy, local food lovers By Grace Brogan Photos by Anita Schuckert & Ihsan Yaseen Illustration by Olivia Olson Joannides
Toddlers despise broccoli. ...right? Turns out, it doesn’t have to be that way. Research shows the earliest years are key in establishing taste preferences and lifelong healthy eating habits. At the same time, many families are far removed from the sources of their food. That’s why initiatives like Farm to Early Care & Education (Farm to ECE) are so vital. Beyond providing local fare for meals and snacks, Farm to ECE offers young eaters (birth to 6 years) great nutrition, fun foodbased activities and hands-on experiences with gardens, cooking and farms. These programs, applied in kindergartens, preschools, childcare centers and in-home settings, have health benefits for kids, build community connectedness and diversify income for local farmers. They’ve even been known to result in toddlers who love broccoli.
Iowa Initiatives Anita Schuckert, owner of Little Steps and Beyond Day Care in Iowa City, embraced Farm to ECE after taking a class that helped her make connections with local farmers. “As part of the class, I got produce like apples and pumpkins to do taste tests and activities with the kids,” recalls Anita. “The kids really liked making pumpkin butter, which they got to take home.” The kids in her care try new foods, help with snacks and assist with the garden. 14 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Since first engaging in Farm to ECE, Anita has expanded her garden. Her kids even help process some of the produce: peeling tomatoes, freezing squash, and dehydrating apples from a local farm. When winter comes, they delight in the great taste of soups and sauces made with those preserved ingredients. Anita also gets parents involved by providing them with recipes and ingredients, having them help with the kids in the garden, and hosting Meal Prep Days— where parents become more comfortable with
Under the management of Angela Pfaff, The Kids at Play Center in Stoddard, Wisc., has created raised beds, which the children use to grow vegetables. Through the Farm to ECE program, they’ve also taught their young students about composting, soil health and land stewardship. kitchen skills and see how meal planning can be easier, quicker, and more affordable. Ihsan Yaseen has become a champion of Farm to ECE, too, adopting what she can at AlRazi Academy in West Des Moines, a childcare center for over 70 children. AlRazi’s program originally included children bringing their own meals from home, but the more Ihsan learned about Farm to ECE, the more she felt it was a great fit. “Most of our families are low income,” she says. “We noticed many of the kiddos didn’t have the background or education to learn about healthy choices.” As Ihsan has seen the children respond to the activities, she’s become more and more passionate about preparing fresh meals for them with food from the garden and local farmers. She’s now in the middle of a kitchen upgrade and has a wealth of ideas about family and community engagement for when it’s complete. Because her staff also lacked this experience, everyone has been learning together. “We want to teach the children about their environment and where food comes from,” she says. “We want to introduce gardening and local food to families and the kids.”
Digging into Wisconsin In Wisconsin, a network of partners across the state is working to reach as many young eaters as possible. With funding in part from the W.K. Kellogg Foundation, these
organizations have developed tools, systems and even small grants to help early care providers adopt engaging and enriching food and farming activities. The Parenting Place—a childcare resource organization with offices in LaCrosse, Sparta and Tomah—works with over 20 early care sites on Farm to ECE. They help these sites with their gardens and access to fresh food from local farms. Amanda Bee, Farm to ECE Coordinator at The Parenting Place shares, “The earlier we can get a variety of fruits and vegetables into the hands of kids, the better their chances are of growing up with a healthier eating pattern.” In Madison, Rooted works to feed families in need and provide agricultural experiences including summer camps, field trips and Farm to ECE activities. They have a plethora of free Farm to ECE resources on their website, including how to buy, prepare and serve local foods, hands-on learning activities, and tips for gardening with young children. The work of these resource organizations is helping grow Farm to ECE across the state, benefiting both families and communities. As more and more childcare sites adopt these practices, systems are being put in place to monitor program performance: are standards and goals being met? And if not, what assistance is needed? These measures create accountability so providers can tailor and grow their programs to their community’s needs.
PINT-SIZE PRODUCE continued on page 16 local-feast.org 15
PINT-SIZE PRODUCE continued from page 15
Multicultural in Minnesota In Minnesota, Danette Allrich, owner of Holding Hands Childcare, got involved with Farm to ECE through Renewing the Countryside (RTC), a nonprofit dedicated to supporting rural areas and local food systems. Each week this summer and fall, Danette and her kids gleefully opened a box of fresh produce from the Hmong American Farmers Association (HAFA) farm, southeast of St. Paul. With support from the Cargill Foundation, RTC provided Holding Hands and nine other childcare sites in St. Paul with CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) boxes from HAFA. The produce boxes provide healthy and fun opportunities for the kids. “Just yesterday, we peeled, baked and enjoyed edamame beans for the first time,” says Danette. “Some of the kids loved them and begged their parents to buy them the next time they went to the grocery store.” She had a similar experience when introducing another new food. “I got a text from a mom Wednesday night asking about the ‘brown cherries’ I introduced the kiddos to and how she could get them. She was referring to the ground cherries we had for snack, which the kids loved but had never had before. I shared that I grew up eating them on my grandparents farm, and we picked buckets of them each summer, making jelly and canning them.” Along with the CSA boxes, RTC provides “Pint-Size Produce” materials filled with recipes and fun activities. They also partner with St. Paul Public Schools and Youth Farm to integrate these concepts more widely among teachers, childcare providers and parents. Across town, at the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy (IATP), Community Food Systems Program Director Erin McKee is developing a bicultural, bilingual curriculum with HAFA that will include culturally relevant food items. “There are very few early care educational resources that take advantage of the huge potential to link food with culture, deepening the appreciation for both during this key age when kids are forming concepts that can carry forward for the rest of their lives,” says Erin. “We hope to create resources celebrating the deep agricultural roots and culinary riches of our Hmong community while developing a new market for Hmong farmers.” IATP and RTC are just a couple of the organizations and agencies working on Farm to ECE in Minnesota. Providing kids with early experiences like these with new foods, different recipes, hands-on gardening and family education can lead to better health outcomes. It’s an opportunity to dig into gardens, try a few different broccoli recipes and build community connections that can improve the health of children, the environment and our local economies. Grace Brogan is a Montana and Minnesota-based writer, gardener, artist, educator and values-based economy activist.
16 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
th
love,
I
ng
flavors
put
together
from
my
these
mayoclinic.org
homeland,
Tobago. Loving Jamaica and Grenada
E
away
from
home,
respecting
the
he south has with Caribbean cuisine.
s are perfect for dipping, basting,
ight! where. l e d d n a l Care about s i l a Dat re
nd so much more. It will transform
to...
We salute the FEAST! Local Foods Network, creating a sustainable, innovative food system.
NTIC FOOD FOR THE SOUL © 2019 Mayo Clinic
WESTINDIESSOULFOOD1@GMAIL.COM I WWW.WESTINDIESSOUL.COM OM I WWW.WESTINDIESSOUL.COM IWWW.WESTINDIESSOUL.COM PHONE: 651-331-9523 ESTINDIESSOULFOOD1@GMAIL.COM I I PHONE: 651-331-9523
00%
For Chocolate 100% Lovers Only®
100%
OC.LUOSSEIDNITSEW.WWW
I
I
PHONE: 651-331-95
EXPERIENCE THE TASTE OF THE CARIBBEAN
MOC.LIAMG@1DOOFLUOSSEIDNITSEW
Cooking
with
love,
I
put
together
these
CERT Certified as tering flavors from my homeland, SMALL,mouthwa WOMAN, AND MINORITY-OWNED Trinidad ENTERPRISE and Tobago. Loving Jamaica and Grenada BUSINESS as
my
HOME
away
from
home,
respecting
the
closeness the south has with Caribbean cuisine. These sauces are perfect for dipping, basting,
51-331-9523
marinatING and so much more. It will transform
nd delight! Dat real isla
your meaL into...
Cooking
AUTHENTIC FOOD FOR THE SOUL
with
mouthwatering
love,
I
flavors
put
together
from
my
these
homeland,
Trinidad and Tobago. Loving Jamaica and Grenada as
my
HOME
away
from
home,
respecting
the
closeness the south has with Caribbean cuisine. These sauces are perfect for dipping, basting,
“We select the best cacao beans from our fields and turn them into your meaL into... Chocolatelforis you.” land delight!
Dat real island delight!
marinatING and so much more. It will transform
EXPERIENCE THE TASTE OF THE CARIBBEAN
100% WESTINDIESSOULFOOD1@GMAIL.COM
CERT Certified as SMALL, WOMAN, AND MINORITY-OWNED BUSINESS ENTERPRISE
I
WWW.WESTINDIESSOUL.COM
I
PHONE: 651-331-9523
Dat rea
For locations or ordering online, visit:
ChocolateSanJose-Minneapolis.com local-feast.org 17
SERVING ON THE FRONTLINES Essential workers and the food system, COVID and beyond By Marlene Petersen
They work every day, through blizzards, disease, and civil unrest. They put themselves in harm’s way to care for the rest of us. COVID has claimed hundreds of their lives.1 They are frontline workers —not doctors or nurses or first responders—but the women and men who harvest, package, sell, and serve our food. Without them we would starve.
Hands that feed us Like so many industries, COVID-19 has affected every aspect of the food supply chain: from expanded safety protocols to increased sales for some farms to restaurants pivoting just to stay afloat. For CTL Foods, Inc., maker of Soda Fountain® Malted Milk Powder in Colfax, Wisc., the pandemic brought extensive COVID procedures to keep workers safe. “Social distancing, face masks, sanitary wipes, hand sanitizer, forehead thermometers, even toilet paper became top priority,” says Linda Murch, Vice President at CTL. 18Image FEAST! Local Gepp Foods Magazine by Anastasia from Pixabay
“A safety shield was installed at the front desk and social distance posters were put up. We had a safety protocol in place if anyone became ill at work. The hardest part was making sure everyone was informed so if anything happened, supervisors and employees would know what to do.” Sno Pac Foods, a grower and producer of frozen, organic fruits and vegetables in Caledonia, Minn., had a similar experience. As a food business, cleaning and hair/face coverings were nothing new, but distancing employees and limiting customer access was. “We kept everyone [in packaging and processing] separate,” says Pete Gengler, who co-owns Sno Pac with his brother Nick. Between the 3,000 acre farm and the processing and packaging areas, they employ 50 hard-working individuals. “Customers weren’t allowed into the building. We also did a 1. As of August 14, 2020, the United Food and Commercial Workers Union (UFCW),
which represents 1.3 million workers, has confirmed the deaths of at least 113 of its meatpacking members. In Congressional testimony on June 10, the UFCW estimated at least 225 of its total members have died of COVID-19. civileats. com/2020/06/02/the-pandemic-isnt-easing-up-but-frontline-food-workers-arealready-losing-bonus-pay/#respond
25-page COVID-19 preparedness plan and paid people to stay home when family members had symptoms.” Thanks to solid procedures and low infection rates in that part of the state, no one got sick, despite working extra shifts to meet demand. “This spring, our normal retail orders doubled,” Pete recalls. “We were wiped out of peas, green beans and edamame early on and had to turn down customers. Workers pulled extra shifts and weekends, and the processors [who clean, prepare and freeze Sno Pac’s crops] worked seven days a week.” Yet Pete knew, in some cases, it wasn’t going to be enough. “COVID took our inventories down to nothing. We ran potatoes in the spring—all the organic potatoes we could collect. We have enough to cover orders until fall but had to scrounge around, getting product from as many other growers as we could.” As demand from retail rose, institutional orders ended abruptly. “Stuff I sell to Reinhart [a distributor] completely died because schools and restaurants were closed.” Sno Pac wasn’t the only farm feeling the heat. With COVID-19 shutting government offices and closing borders, Jack Hedin also had concerns about how his business would fare. Featherstone Farm—a 250-acre, certified-organic, produce farm 2in Rushford, Minn.—relies heavily on seasonal, nonimmigrant labor to grow, harvest, wash, package and ship their wide variety of fruits and vegetables. “The vast majority of our crops are hand-picked by 2530 people coming from central, highland Mexico with H-2A visas. Without these skilled workers, we couldn’t feed people,” says Jack, a fourth-generation farmer in southern Minnesota. “Think about this: 30 people, working eight months of the year, feed thousands of others. After 8-10 years of coming back, these workers know the industry so well and are so efficient, if they didn’t do this work, it would greatly impact the farm and would shake the reliability of our production.” Luckily, the pandemic didn’t stop these essential laborers, and Featherstone implemented extensive new protocols including additional housing, spacing, and cleaning, as well as
Hardworking team at Featherstone Farm, including over 25 H-2A workers who return annually to Minnesota to bring local food to hundreds of families.
paid quarantine and sick leave to keep them safe. Because these devoted workers returned to Minnesota, despite the pandemic, local organic food reached hundreds of families this year. “Demand for what we grow is unprecedented, nothing I could have imagined. On the first of March, we projected we’d have carrots until April 1 but ran out by March 10. We’ve also seen a crazy, huge increase for CSAs [Community Supported Agriculture, where consumers pre-purchase a produce subscription directly from the farmer]. The CSAs had generally been seeing a downward trend over the last five years. This year, we had hundreds on a waiting list.”
Tatum Evans, Marketing & Membership Manager, Fifth Season Cooperative, Viroqua, Wisc., unloads lacinato kale from Enos Miller of Westby, Wisc., as part of a larger order headed to Indianapolis Fruit. Fifth Season aggregates local products from farmers, producers and processors to meet demand throughout the Midwest. www.fifthseasoncoop.com Photo by Tyler Dvorak, Fifth Season Co-op.
Pivot or Close Unfortunately, some food producers have had the opposite experience under COVID: steep losses and the risk of losing everything. Kim Olson, owner of Grandma’s Gourmets in Albert Lee, Minn., had a 66% plunge in sales between February and March. Her small-batch, handcrafted pickles, jams, jellies and salsas are artisan items usually sampled in grocery stores, so when the pandemic cancelled demos, her sales plummeted. “I was really worried,” says Kim about the horrifying drop. “I didn’t know how I was going to pay my bills or how my business would continue. I had a choice: cry in a corner or figure it out.” Figure it out, she did. Short staffed, she examined what she could produce—mainly alone—in her commercial kitchen without a retail space. “I had sheets and pans for baking and decided to make stuff and sell it on Facebook. I didn’t want 2 Nonimmigrant visas are for foreign nationals wishing to enter the United States on a temporary basis for tourism, medical treatment, business, temporary work, study or other similar reasons. See, cbp.gov
FRONTLINE continued on page 20 local-feast.org 19
FRONTLINE continued from page 19 food waste, so I made items to order—pies, cookies—fresh every day for customers. If you needed individually packaged lunches, I did that, too. I also started hosting fry-bread events. People would come out to the plant for fry bread tacos or pulled-pork fry bread.” Kim hasn’t seen the return of big sales, but the bakery has kept her afloat. Some of her staff have even returned. She says the true test will come with holiday purchases: “If I’m not back to half of what I was doing on the canning side, then I’ll open up for more baking. Whatever I need to do to keep going, I’m going to do.” The need to pivot is something Country View Dairy in Hawkeye, Iowa knows all too well. Since 2011, the familyowned and operated dairy farm has supplied all-natural yogurt to colleges, schools, restaurants and coffee shops. Before the pandemic, Country View sold 1,000 pounds of yogurt a week to Luther College. In mid-March, there was nothing. “We were drastically affected, early,” says Bob Howard, director of marketing and sales at Country View. “Sales dropped 70%. One sale got dropped mid-shipment to Chicago. Luckily, we got a Payroll Protection Plan loan to keep our staff on and to change some things up.” Despite abysmal institutional sales, people still wanted Country View’s yogurt, so the family did what it took to deliver it, never missing a day’s work. They donated yogurt to food banks in northeast Iowa and to Farms to Families COVID relief boxes, began home deliveries, and ramped
Sitka Salmon Shares, a Community-Supported Fishery (CSF), was well-positioned during COVID-19. With the CSF already operating an online ordering and home-delivery system, they’ve seen new interest in the work of their 22 independently-operated fisher families. For incredible wild-caught Alaskan seafood straight from their fisherman’s collective to your doorstep, visit www.sitkasalmonshares.com
20 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
“When circumstance forces your hand and you have to try new things, you realize that maybe you should have been doing this all along,” says Doug Kouma, Visitor Experience Director at Vikre, a craft distillery in Duluth, Minn., whose gin, vodka, whiskey and aquavit are made with ingredients from the Lake Superior watershed. In April 2020, the distillery became endeared to its community for making and giving away hand sanitizer to anyone who needed it. To learn more about Vikre’s award-winning spirits—including their new make-at-home cocktail kits —visit vikredistillery.com
By the Spoonful, a gourmet food store and espresso bar in McGregor, Iowa, quickly pivoted to free curbside and home delivery. Unlike retail stores with dozens of workers, the quaint, locally-owned shop is run by owner, Katie Ruff, and three part-time employees. Offering these extra services took a great deal more time but was a sacrifice Katie was happy to make to ensure her customers could get what they needed. www.itsbythespoonful.com
up production of 6-oz yogurt cups to contribute to meals for school children in need. They even got more visitors at the creamery’s retail space. “People were coming into the farm store for the first time,” Bob recalls with a smile. “Some of them have lived 5-10 miles away for years but had never been to the farm. They checked it out because people told them about us and because we’re local.”
Victoria’s Ristorante & Wine Bar delivered hundreds of meals to first responders in the first three months of COVID.
GROWING
Farmers prepare soil, plant, tend, and harvest crops and animals
LOCAL FOOD SYSTEM
“My husband and I heard about a restaurant on the East Coast offering meals for kids who weren’t in school anymore,” says Natalie. RETAIL “So I threw [the offer for free meals] CONSUMERS Farmers’ markett workers, w People ple buy, prepare, restaurant,t, and out on Facebook: Stop at the front and eat at the t food grocery store ore employees desk, tell us what you need and TRANSPORT Workers transport we’ll give you a lunch—pasta with ffoodd tto markets meat sauce or marinara or buttered Every year is different, whether it’s the noodles.” market, the weather or a pandemic. We need Keeping business going and The response was to be resilient and adaptable because that’s meeting community needs were overwhelming, not only from the food system. strong incentives behind Victoria’s families in need but from volunteers Ristorante & Wine Bar’s responses and people offering financial —Susan Noble, Executive to COVID. In Rochester, Minn., assistance. A woman known only as Director, Vernon Economic Mayo Clinic patients and visitors “Christine” delivered meals as far Development Association, make restaurants a necessity, as Waseca and Lewiston (56 miles Viroqua, Wisc. especially for outpatients during away). She became the restaurant’s Local Food System graphic adapted from Nourish. days and weeks of treatment. Copyright WorldLink, all rights reserved. Facebook Angel and helped feed “We became a carry-out over 4,000 people. institution,” says owner Natalie The crises of 2020 have affected Victoria. “We did tons of deliveries, every aspect of the food supply. For especially to patients who were in hotels with no food. We producers, it’s become a forcing function, prompting bold, came to work every day. Everyone did everything: orders, new strategies—some of which may remain in place long delivery, dishes. You had to think outside of yourself to after COVID is over. For consumers, it has brought into make sure people were fed.” sharp focus the importance of knowing who makes our But Natalie and her crew didn’t stop with feeding food, of having a deeper appreciation for the path it travels, patients in hotels. They made sure doctors, nurses, first and for supporting responders and police officers, who couldn’t shelter at home the frontline workers who do whatever it takes to make sure had meals, too. Then these devoted food workers—some it reaches our plates—during the pandemic and beyond. of whom worked only for tips—dug deeper and started a free meal program for local school children. The idea sprang Marlene Petersen is a Twin-Cities based writer, editor and novelist who from a simple conversation in the car. loves good local food. DISPOSING
Compost Composted sted foodcan be turnedd into fertile farm soil.
HARVESTING / PROCESSING
Workers harvest, pack pa and often process foods
Caring for Community
local-feast.org 21
The Nicest Place in Minnesota: Victoria’s Ristorante and Wine Bar in Rochester NICEST PLACES IN AMERICA 2020 FINALIST I "NO CHILD HUNGRY"
Downtown Rochester I 507.280.6232 I victoriasmn.com FRESH LOCAL INGREDIENTS
Unproductive Farm Land?
Want help diagnosing Unproductive Land? Consider converting sections to Native Pollinator Habitat. Save Money & Make a Difference 7 locations servicing the upper Midwest for 40+ years 763-631-9449 or sales@prairieresto.com 22 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
dateci sotto! (dig in)
Responsible seafood direct to your doorstep!
Blast-frozen at the source for a fresh taste!
enroll online
responsible harvest
feel good fish
Join our community supported fishery to reserve your share of our harvest. You’ll get a seasonal assortment of fish and crustaceans harvested with care by our small-boat fishermen and delivered direct to your door!
Our small-boat fishermen use low-impact gear and your wild seafood is meticulously handled from the moment it’s plucked from the frigid North Pacific waters, immediately iced, and blast-frozen for sashimi-grade quality.
We pay our fishermen abovedock prices, which allows them to harvest like craftsmen. Our fish is traceable to the source, and we donate 1% of revenue to causes preserving the wild. That’s fish you can feel good (or great) about.
At the Viroqua Food Co+op, fresh delicious food is just the beginning. Not only do we provide local produce, dairy and meat from within 100 miles, we also prepare good, local food in our deli. To see what’s for breakfast, lunch or dinner, visit:
viroquafood.coop/deli
609 North Main Street, Viroqua, WI 608.637.7511 open daily
m Over 1,000 products from 200 local producers m In-house butcher; housemade brats & sausage m Coffee, espresso & smoothies at the deli counter m Burritos, tacos, sandwiches made fresh m Soup, salads, bakery, desserts to grab-n-go m Artisan beer, wine & spirits m Locally made gifts & more!
$1 off Any purchase of $5 or more
Every day is like a farmers market!
LF
Viroqua Food Co+op 609 N. Main St. Viroqua, WI Expires 11/30/2020 One coupon per visit.
local-feast.org 23
lo
E
s
d M ca A R l f o oA C KETPL
THE SHOW MUST GO ON!
Sunday, December 6, 2020, 10am-4pm Graham Park, Olmsted County Fairgrounds Rochester, MN PARKING
CURBSIDE PICKUP
BUILDING 2
FEAST!
ROCHESTER, MINNESOTA
24 24 FEAST! FEAST!Local LocalFoods FoodsMagazine Magazine
Olmstead County Fairgrounds
FEAST!
GRAHAM PARK
BUILDING 1
SOUT
PARKING
FA I R G R O U N D S AV E N U E S E
H BR OAD WAY
14TH STREET SW
PARKING
American Hazelnut Company
www.americanhazelnutcompany.com Midwest grower-owned producer of hazelnut products
B&E’s Trees
www.bandestrees.com Wisconsin’s favorite Bourbon Barrel Aged Maple Syrup
Blue Fruit Farm
www.bluefruitfarm.com Delicious jams and nutritious berry juices
Bonnie’s Balls
www.bonniesballs.com Donut-sized balls of dough stuffed with cheese curds
CannonBelles Cheese
www.cannonbelles.com Southeastern Minnesota-made cheeses
Carlson Roasting Co.
www.carlsonroasting.com Fresh roasted, small batch, Fair Trade coffee
Chocolate San José-Minneapolis
www.chocolatesanjose-minneapolis.com Premium, sustainable certified, awardwinning healthy chocolate
Crane Creek Farms
www.cranecreekfarms.com Honey, hot honey and maple syrup
Daddy Sam’s
www.daddysams.com We make authentic, Texas style barbeque sauces
Grandma’s Gourmets LLC
www.grandmasgourmets.com Fresh & homemade just like grandma made it
KaKookies
www.kakookies.com Grab-n-go cookies made with real food ingredients
Let’s get pickled
lets-get-pickled.business.site Gourmet pickled products
Lulu’s Brasilian Snacks
www.lulusbrasiliansnacks.com Small, golden Brasilian cheese rolls
Madame Chu
www.madamechu.com Southeast Asian Condiments
Maazah Chutney
maazah.com The “Magic Green Sauce” taking over America’s kitchen table
Oak Valley Creations
www.oakvalleycreations.com High quality, handcrafted, organic gourmet foods & gifts
Scholze Family Beef
www.scholzefamilybeef.com Locally raised protein; beef, pork, and poultry
Seven Songs Organic Farm
www.sevensongsfarm.com Certified organic farm featuring Escape garlic scape pesto
Slide Gourmet Potato Chips
www.slidegourmetpotatochips.com Thicker cut, unique flavors, superior crunch
The Bee Shed, SBC
www.thebeeshed.com Local producer of seasonal honey
UFisheries
www.UFisheries.com Specialty smoked wild salmon products
Warm Fields Farm
www.warmfieldsfarm.com Quality organic produce, salsa and pepper jelly
New vendors joining often - check local-feast.org to see who has just signed up!
Order online • local-feast.org • pick them up at the event—minimal contact!
your partner in
local food.
Downtown La Crosse, WI and Rochester, MN www.pfc.coop 7 days, 8 am–9 pm Open to the public • Free parking • Curbside Pick Up available!
local-feast.org 25
Sunday, December 6, 2020, 10am-4pm Graham Park, Olmsted County Fairgrounds Rochester, MN
If you’ve been to FEAST! before, this year will look a bit different!
Three ways to get your #localfeast fix at the 2020 hybrid event: 1. Minimum contact: order products from FEAST! vendors online at local-feast.org Nov. 8-Nov. 29 for curbside pickup Dec. 6 2. Socially distanced, in person:* order tickets online starting Nov. 8 for an appointed timeslot in the new COVID-era shopping system. 3. VIP wine sampling experience:* order tickets for a seated, curated sampling experience from a select group of local wineries. *Limited capacity—tickets available until they sell out
Intrigued? Start here: www.local-feast.org
26 FEAST! FEAST!Local LocalFods Foods Magazine 26 Magazine
o
A ds CE
Cream of theCrop lo
fo
FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace - Best in Show Awards
o
lo
A ds CE
M Ac a lE T P L RK
c a l f oP L
MA
RKET
People’s Choice: CannonBelles Cheese With delicious cheese, fun holstein merch and enthusiastic customer service, it’s not surprising that this business, owned by a trio of tireless women, also runs a coffee & ice cream shop and is soon opening their own cheesemaking facility. They’re going places—constantly!
We may be biased, but when you walk the FEAST! exhibit hall, you’re seeing the cream of the crop—businesses built from grassroots, giving back to the community. Just for fun, though, we select some stand-outs every year. The 2019 winners were...
Most Innovative Local Sourcing: Siren Shrub Co. A first-time FEAST! vendor in 2019, these beverage concentrates boast flavors from local farms, with authentic messaging that treats farmer suppliers like partners.
Most Inspiring Social Benefit: Ferndale Market Ferndale Market donates turkeys to the food bank every year for Thanksgiving and Christmas. They also donate gift boxes and gift certificates to organizations for special events and are involved in school efforts to connect kids to farms.
Most Engaging Booth: Sailor Mercy Attending for the first time in 2019, they wowed us with a summery-feeling booth full of silk blooms that drew the eye and inspired visitors to learn more about their elderberry syrup.
Nicci Sylvester Award:
In memory of Nicci Sylvester, founder of Tonic Local Kitchen and Juice Bar, a new award was created to honor restaurants championing and purchasing from local farms. Two awards were presented—one to Nicci’s business partner and successor, Tim Wiste, and the other to Erik Kleven and Jennifer Becker, co-owners of Bleu Duck Kitchen.
Ready to Grow Award from the Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture: Sara’s Tipsy Pies
Something Special from Wisconsin™ Award: Out of the Kitchen
Stay tuned to FEAST! social media for a virtual People’s Choice vote this year at the close of the festival, Sunday, Dec. 6, with prizes to be announced! /localfeastnetwork Photos by Ashley Aukes of Beruck Studios
@Local_Feast
LocalFeast local-feast.org 27
A FEAST 2020 ADVERTORIAL
Cannon Falls COME SAVOR LOCAL FLAVOR
Just east of Highway 52, between St. Paul and Rochester, lies the quaint riverside community of Cannon Falls. Dedicated to all things local—from an award-winning winery and craft brewery, to artisan markets and great restaurants—it’s a great place to spend the day...or a lifetime.
CANNON VALLEY TRAIL AND CANNON RIVER Whether it's cross-country skiing on the 19.7 mile, paved Cannon Valley Trail or canoeing down the Cannon River, outdoor fun beckons all year long. Cannon Falls Chamber of Commerce, 103 Fourth St. N, cannonfalls.org, 507-263-2289.
RAW BISTRO Raw Bistro is farm-to-bowl pet fare crafted right in Cannon Falls from 100% grass-fed beef and freerange poultry-along with organic produce and other real ingredients dogs need for optimal health and vitality. rawbistro.com, 507-263-5959.
FERNDALE MARKET The Peterson family has raised turkeys without shortcuts for three generations. Visit their on-farm store for tantalizing free-range, antibiotic-free turkey products as well as goods from 100+ local farmers and food makers. ferndalemarket.com, 31659 Willow Trail, 507-263-4556
CANNON RIVER WINERY Shed the stress of a long week with live music, good company and amazing wines at Cannon River Winery’s inviting historic location. From full-bodied reds to dry whites, there’s plenty to discover (or rediscover). 421 Mill St. W, cannonriverwinery.com, 507-263-7400.
28 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Cannon Falls, MN
TILION BREWING CO. This production brewery in historic downtown boasts a spacious taproom and two patios overlooking the Cannon River and falls. Enjoy a wide variety of handcrafted flagship and seasonal beers. Tilionbrewing.com or @tilionbrewing (Facebook). 432 Mill St. W., 507-263-4497
CANNONBELLES
CannonBelles Coffee & Ice Cream
With flavors for every taste, CannonBelles Coffee & Ice Cream carries CannonBelles’ full line of artisan-made, awardwinning cheeses—crafted in Cannon Falls—plus specialty coffees and parlor-style ice cream. Cannonbelles.com, 402 W. Mill St., 507-757-1155.
OLY’S ROADHOUSE Offering robust selections like brick-oven burgers and pizza and a full-bar rife with locally-sourced spirits, craft beer, ciders and signature cocktails, this welcoming spot redefines hospitality.
ARTISAN PLAZA FOOD HALL
Located 1.5 miles south of historic downtown, the Artisan Plaza Food Hall features three exciting eateries: the Market & Deli, Oly’s Roadhouse Brick Oven Pub, and Falls Landing. Artisanplaza.com, 1223 Fourth Street, 651-829-1138.
FALLS LANDING This American eatery, inspired by North Country fish camps, supper clubs and hunting lodges, features hearty beverages, fine service and savory dishes prepared with local ingredients. It’s destination dining at its best. Check website for hours: www.fallslandingmn.com
MINNY GROWN
is a seed to sale hemp company in Cannon Falls, MN. We pour our hearts into every small-batch, hoping the care we put into our product translates into care put into the world. 783 Radio Drive, Suite 107. Woodbury, MN 55125, minnygrown.com, 651-236-9225
MARKET&DELI The thriving Market & Deli showcases hearty soups and sandwiches, made with local ingredients, as well as a delicious array of gourmet meats and cheeses, organic groceries and fresh produce.
local-feast.org 29
Meet me at
FEAST! By Kelli Boylen
At the first FEAST! Local Foods Marketplace in 2014, vendors varied from established local foodmakers looking for a bigger market share to those with a kernel of an idea ready to pop but unsure where it would land. As FEAST! has grown and fine-tuned its offerings, many of its foodmakers have done the same. We checked in with four vendors to learn more about their products and how gathering at the annual marketplace has helped them grow.
West Indies Soul Food St. Paul, Minn. westindiessoul.com Growing with FEAST! since 2018
West Indies Soul Food wants to improve your next meal! For more than 30 years, Sharon Richards-Noel, head chef and owner, has brought flavorful eats to the Twin Cities. Raised in Port of Spain, the capital city of Trinidad, Sharon was surrounded by “multicultural Caribbean character and the homegrown calypso soundtrack of the West Indies.” She moved to Minnesota in 1982 and immediately started sharing her love of Caribbean cuisine. “At the time, I was married, and we had a vision with another couple to open up a catering business and offer good quality, healthy, authentic food. We had the same vision and all made it happen,” Sharon recalls. In 2014, West Indies Soul Food started selling three bold, spicy sauces: Better Be Quiet Bar-B-QUE Sauce, a sweet 30 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
and tangy blend with savory qualities to enhance any entree; Caribbean Flavor Hot Pepper Sauce, frequently used by her catering service to add spicy kick to rice dishes; and Not Only Jamaican Jerk Sauce, a fiery-hot, local favorite that “pairs beautifully with meats, eggs, veggies and seafood.” Sharon premiered her sauces at FEAST! in 2018 after hearing it might help increase sales. Her all-natural, glutenfree sauces were a great fit, and she experienced first-hand the strong demand for vegan and vegetarian-friendly items. “I gained more leads on where I can sell my sauces, met new distributors, and found a new customer base,” says Sharon. These days, you can find her sauces in the Twin Cities at Mississippi Market and The Wedge Co-ops, at the HyVee in Owatonna, Minn., and on her website, where you’re invited to transform your meals into “dat real Island delight!”
B&E’s Trees
Viroqua, Wisc. bandestrees.com Growing with FEAST! since 2015 Bree Breckel is a sap wrangler. Eric Weninger is an engineer and “fixer and maker of all things useful.” Together, they are the B and E in B&E’s Trees. Along with their nearest and dearest friends and family, they produce organic, maple syrup fresh from the trees on their off-the-grid farm deep in the Coulee Region. But they don’t stop with making syrup. They also age it for a year in 53-gallon bourbon barrels before bottling it in sizes ranging from a 1.7oz mini to gallon jugs (all of which can be purchased online). The result? A syrup so rich and delicious, it might not make it to your pancakes. B&E’s first attended FEAST! as the business was launching in 2015. The product was so new, in fact, Bree recalls the excitement of using self-adhesive labels—instead of a glue stick—on the bottles for the first time. Finding growth and inspiration at the marketplace, they have returned ever since. “Every year our business is different, so every year we have new needs and new things to learn,” says Bree when asked what keeps them coming back. They also enjoy watching people try their syrup. “[It] makes us feel great about what we’re doing and why we’re doing it. And when they come back specifically to find us, that energy and affirmation keeps us going.” B&E’s Trees has also made connections with new buyers, strengthened relationships with current ones, and networked with other producers and service providers. At the same time, they’ve developed community by using FEAST! as a platform to invite folks to their farm for things like “Rampfest” and their annual open house (held virtually this year). “Often when we are looking for a new business resource, we will first look at our FEAST! connections,” says Bree. “FEAST! has helped us gain a sense of the landscape for small, food-based businesses better than other events. It offers real connections, filters through the clutter and brings forth solid, useful, resources tailored for businesses like ours.”
local-feast.org 31
Blue Fruit Farm Winona, Minn. bluefruitfarm.com Growing with FEAST! since 2014
Blue Fruit Farm is all about health—from the soil, to the superfruits, to the eater. Founded in 2008 by Jim Riddle and Joyce Ford, the farm produces luscious, certified-organic aronia berries, black currants, blueberries, cherry plums, elderberries, honeyberries, juneberries and plums on five acres of expertly-tended lands. Besides this venture, Jim and Joyce co-founded the Winona Farmers Market and pioneered produce subscriptions before “Community Supported Agriculture” was a thing. Honored as Organic Farmers of the Year at the 2019 MOSES Organic Farming Conference, they’ve mentored farmers for decades and are now happily transitioning away from the business to enjoy the fruits of their labor. They first attended FEAST! as a way to sell their value-added products, such as jam and juice, and to meet potential customers. Six years later, they’ve made more consumer contacts than they can count. “[At FEAST!] you meet people who are doing some pretty cool and sustainable things within our food system,” says Katie Lange, who joined the Blue Fruit Farm team in 2018 and has now taken the reins so that Jim and Joyce could retire. Katie loves telling FEAST! attendees about their nutritious fruit, which is naturally ripened and hand-harvested, 32 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
but she also enjoys hearing attendees’ stories. “Getting people together to meet the farmers and foodmakers is needed and wanted more by consumers than ever before. People are seeking good, local food and want to know who grew it and where exactly it came from.” Blue Fruit Farm has continued to expand since its first FEAST!. This year, in particular, has been an amazing one for fruit sales, thanks in part to online orders. “I think attending FEAST! helps promote the farm,” says Katie. “We even had a family drive from Iowa to one of our pick-your-own blueberry events because they first met us at FEAST! and fell in love with our story and our jam!”
Heartland Burrito Iowa City, Iowa heartlandburrito.com Growing with FEAST! since 2014
“Imagine a good home cooked meal wrapped with love into a burrito, and that’s us,” says Kyle Sieck, owner of Heartland Burrito—producer of sustainable, frozen burritos made with as many local ingredients as possible. Their tortillas are made in-house, rolled in Iowa and stuffed with vegan and vegetarian fillings. International flavors combined with Midwest simplicity produce delectable offerings like Thai Peanut Tofu, with Iowa-made tofu, and Rice Bean Cheese Curd, with Iowa-grown black beans and cheese curds. Kyle initially attended FEAST! in 2014 with his catering business, Local Burrito, where he learned he had a ways to go before launching his frozen products. After establishing Heartland Burrito in 2016, Kyle returned to FEAST! and in 2018 earned the Most Inspiring Social Benefit Award for his upstanding business practices and commitment to using locally-grown ingredients. Some of Kyle’s tasty flavor combinations were a direct result of the annual marketplace, where he met WW Homestead Dairy (Waukon, Iowa), which supplies his cheese curds, and SnoPac Foods (Caledonia, Minn.), which provides local veggies. Kyle says talking to other business owners at FEAST! has helped Heartland Burrito solve packaging issues and created networks that put their products on the shelves of Whole Foods in Iowa. “FEAST! is a great place for people to interact. And, I like seeing people enjoy what we make.”
Heartland Burritos’s sales have grown every year. This year, with increased consumer interest in local foods, Kyle has seen a 30-40 percent bump, both in local retail sales and online orders. So if you’re near Iowa City, pop into New Pioneer Co-op or Whole Foods, because you can only get them in Iowa (or online). --Kelli Boylen is a freelance writer living in the Driftless Region of Northeast Iowa.
local-feast.org 33
B&E’S TREES
How can we help your community grow?
BOURBON BARREL AGED MAPLE SYRUP
We have been investing in the innovative people of southern Minnesota since 1986 in Economic Development, Early Childhood and Community Vitality. Tell us how we can help your community, business or idea grow.
TASTE THE ADVENTURE Barrel aging with love since 2013 in the Driftless hills of Viroqua Wisconsin BANDESTREES.COM
BANDESTREES
507.455.3215 smifoundation.org
Unique, Affordable, Shipping Solutions. Stores flat. Forms quickly. Ships cold. No leaks.
W
e’ve been helping customers like you succeed for almost 15 years. With a range of flexible products and customization, we can accommodate your specific business needs and scale as you grow. Whether you are a large enterprise or just starting out, let us be your dependable source for temperature sensitive shipping solutions.
Saves valuable warehouse space! How does it work? Scan for a demonstration
collapsiblecooler.com 34 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
HOTa visitOFF THE PASS with 3 local chefs Mateo Mackbee Chef, Co-Owner
Krewe 24 College Ave N St. Joseph, MN 320-354-2575 krewemn.com Krewe? The name is from an old English word, krü, which is a group working together on a Mardi Gras float. A Krewe, a diverse group also comes together to make something beautiful.
Hush Puppies
½ small onion, chopped 1 small jalapeno, chopped 1 bunch of scallions, thin 2 tbsp. minced parsley 1 tsp. dried thyme 1 c. yellow cornmeal ½ c. of all-purpose flour
1 tbsp. sugar 1 ½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. salt ¾ tsp. cayenne ¾ c. whole milk 1 egg
Combine onion, jalapeno, scallions, and parsley in a food processor or blender and pulse to a rough puree. Whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, thyme, and cayenne in a small bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk and egg. Add the vegetable puree and stir to combine. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir until combined. For the best results, refrigerate the batter at least 30 min before frying.
Est. 1944 (but you just opened)? It’s the year my mother was born. She grew up in New Orleans. I’m celebrating my family’s heritage through food and honoring the influence my mother and grandfather have had on my life. A New-Orleans style menu: how do you introduce those dishes to someone not used to them? We tell them various peppers are used as flavoring but not to necessarily add heat. Cayenne, used correctly, just adds a warmth—the heat rises to a certain level then stays steady. Your life and business partner, Erin Lucas, opened a bakery at the same time. Have you ever thought, “What have we gotten ourselves into?” All the time! We saw an opportunity to jump on our dreams and have some cross-utilization of products. We keep our eyes on the prize. This is all for the kids. How will you get fresh produce in the winter? We are completing our greenhouse and will try it out this winter. Photo courtesy of Luther College, Decorah, Iowa
Chefs continued on pages 37 & 39
local-feast.org 35
NATURALLY RAISED BEEF • PORK CHICKEN
We roast artisan small batch coffee.
CARLSON CARLSON ROASTING CO.
Non GMO Feed • Drug Free • Hormone Free
ROASTING CO.
101 W Cedar Street, Houston, 55943 101 W. Cedar Street, MN Houston, MN 55943 www.CarlsonRoasting.com
101 W Cedar Street, Houston, MN 55943 FREEwww.CarlsonRoasting.com SHIPPING WHOLE BEAN COFFEE ON ORDERS OVER $50 CARLSONROASTING . C OM NET WT. 12 OZ (340 g)
WHOLE BEAN COFFEE NET WT. 12 OZ (340 g)
“The Way Yogurt Should Taste!” The Hidden Stream Farm Family
Home Delivery NOW AVAILABLE In The Rochester Area Call Us For More Information On Our Selection Of Meats Or To Place An Order For Home Delivery Contact us for more info about our Minimally-Processed Quality Dairy Products info@countryviewdairy.com • 563-422-8633
(507) 876-2304
Or visit our Website: hiddenstreamfarm.com
WORKING TO BETTER OUR COMMUNITIES EVERY DAY
It’s What We Do At Merchants Bank, we’re committed to creating thriving communities and helping our customers succeed. It’s who we’ve been for the last 145 years. We’re ready to be your trusted advisor, your partner, and join you every step of the way as we work toward your financial goals together. When you work with us, you become part of the Merchants Bank Family. So why not start today?
(800) 944-6285
www.merchantsbank.com Member FDIC
36 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Kurt Nyguard Chef
1910 Grille (in the Historic Park Inn) 7 W State Street Mason City, IA 641-422-0015 1910grille.com Why Mason City and the Historic Park Inn? I have family ties to this area, and I studied architecture at one point, so the Historic Park Inn’s ties to Frank Lloyd Wright interest me. Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture: does it influence what’s on your menu? We get visitors from all over the world because of Wright. I love to showcase menu items they can’t get anywhere else. It’s fun to create innovative dishes that aren’t based on a certain protein or starch.
Moroccan Lamb Meatballs
Why do veggies at their peak make better food? When produce is hand-selected, it has the grower’s own stamp of approval. Having the freshest products maximizes the flavor, so it’s all it should be.
5 lb. ground lamb 16 oz. red onion, minced 1 tbsp. garlic, minced 2 oz. ginger, minced 1 1/4 c. bread crumbs, panko 5 eggs 2.25 oz. parsley, chopped 1.25 oz. cilantro, chopped 1.25 oz. mint, chopped .5 oz. lemon zest, minced 1 c. pine nuts, toasted 10 oz. feta cheese 1 oz. salt, kosher .5 oz. black pepper, ground 2 tsp. cinnamon, ground 4 tsp. cardamom, ground
Supporting Local. The more people who support local food the more the quality and diversity will go up. We can do what we do because of the renewed interest in foods from the area.
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix by hand. Portion mix into 1-oz. balls. Fry in a deep-fat fryer to the desired color. Transfer to pan and finish in convection oven at 450 degrees for five minutes. Serve immediately.
Working with farmers. It’s a partnership. I let them know what I need for ingredients; they know that I will buy, which gives them some stability. Favorite ingredients? I’m big into herbs and using different seasonings with different techniques. For example, braising herbs makes the flavors incredible!
1910 Grille serves with dill-cucumber Greek yogurt and herbed couscous with golden raisins. local-feast.org 37
Big on taste. Big on certifications.
ORGANIC, VEGAN, GLUTEN-FREE, KOSHER, NON-GMO, C.L.E.A.N., R.A.W., AND IF THERE WAS A CERTIFICATION FOR DELICIOUS, WE’D HAVE THAT TOO. We have a big story. It’s about wanting to share the transformative power of a plant-based diet to help others. It’s about being mother-daughter owned and keeping the family spirit in everything we do. It’s about feeling good about what you eat and spreading that feeling by giving back. And it’s about food that tastes really good. Our story is bigger than a bar. A story big enough to make positive changes in people, and the planet. It’s a story that we hope inspires something big in your story too.
38 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Adrian Lipscombe Chef, Baker, Owner
Uptowne Café & Bakery 1217 Caledonia St. La Crosse, WI 608-535-9990 Uptownecafe.com You’ve lived most of your life in Texas, what surprised you about Wisconsin? It gets colder here than I ever imagined, but the flora in the summer is amazing! What keeps your soul warm in the winter? Warm, deep Southern dishes that sit in my stomach and stick to my ribs. What influenced your menu? Dishes that associate with childhood memories, reminding me of love, comfort and home.
Chow Chow This tangy-sweet side dish is part pickled relish, part condiment. With a little spice and a good crunch, it pairs well with savory fare. 2 ½ c. green tomatoes 2 ½ c. cabbage 1 c. yellow onion 2 c. bell pepper, different varieties 1 c. sweet peppers 1/2 c. parsley 1 c. green onions 1 c. banana peppers 1 tbsp. pickling and canning salt 1 ¼ c. vinegar 1/2 c. light brown sugar (packed) 1/2 tsp. dry mustard 1/4 tsp. dried ginger 1/4 tsp. ground cloves 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric 1/2 tbsp. yellow mustard seeds 1 clove garlic (finely minced) 1/2 tsp. celery seed Coarsely chop all vegetables and herbs and mix together. Add salt and let it sit for 5 minutes. Add sugar, vinegar and spices and then let stand 10 minutes before serving. If storing, place in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 5 days. Can also be canned.
What is your most popular menu item? Sweet potato hash! Chicken Waffle: how do customers react? They usually ask how to eat it (answer: with the chicken and waffle together in each bite). What’s been your biggest challenge? I am one of the few black women who own a restaurant, not just in LaCrosse, but anywhere. It’s difficult to be in that position, but I just try to be really forward and open about it. You’re a very busy person—chef, baker, business owner, activist, mom of 4. What do you hope your children are learning from you? I want them to know they can change the dynamics of understanding, of equity and inclusion. I want them to understand they can create their own space in the same way I have.
In addition to her work as a chef, Adrian started a GoFundMe campaign on June 7, 2020 to buy at least 40 acres. The land will be Black owned and used to preserve and share Black Foodways. For more, visit www.gofundme.com/f/forty-acres-project local-feast.org 39
MINNESOTA COOKS Celebrating farm-to-table By Brita Moore and Claudine Arndt Photo by Katie Cannon Photography
The idea that farms and restaurants could work together to help each other succeed was not mainstream in 2003. That didn’t stop Minnesota’s innovative food and farming communities. Two decades later, the relationships they’ve galvanized have sparked many of the delicious farm-to-table experiences we enjoy today.
On the menu Minnesota Farmers Union (MFU), a grassroots farm organization, has been an instrumental force behind the local food movement. In 2003, they created Minnesota Cooks, a program devoted to celebrating and cultivating partnerships between farmers and chefs, cooks and restaurant owners who feature farm-fresh foods on their menus. “Education and consumer outreach are primary goals at MFU,” says organization president, Gary Wertish. “Back in 2003, we saw the burgeoning interest in local food as an opportunity to build farmer-consumer relationships. We recognized that the purchasing power of restaurants can provide another viable market for many farmers to earn a fair price for their products. So we collaborated with hometown celebrity-chef Andrew Zimmern to create Minnesota Cooks.” The program highlights the state’s culinary talent and abundance of farm-fresh foods. It emphasizes the importance of locally-grown, made-in-Minnesota fare to expand local markets. That first year, Minnesota Cooks was small, just five partnerships, but now features 12 exemplary farmer-restaurant pairings in an annual calendar filled with stunning photos and alluring recipes. Over the last 18 years, the program has traversed the state— Luverne to Hallock, Caledonia to Amboy—interviewing and photographing farmers and chefs. It has featured over 150 farms and 150 restaurants, bakeries, wineries, and other businesses committed to local food. Farm highlights have spanned everything from young growers yielding impressive harvests off of small city lots to established dairy and grain farmsteads. Showcased eateries have included bustling metro restaurants (that almost single-handedly keep local farmers afloat) and small, rural cafés buying what they can to support their neighbors. 40 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Volunteer at Minnesota Cooks Day at the State Fair with a platter of Sloppy Joe’s from Main Street Farmer Eatery, featuring grass fed beef from Pettit Pastures.
Minnesota Cooks Day In addition to a feature in the calendar, the farmer-chef pairs participate in Minnesota Cooks Day at the State Fair, an all-day agricultural celebration. “Each pair comes onstage at Dan Patch Park,” Wertish explains. “While the chefs demonstrate how to prepare the recipes chosen for the calendar, the farmers tell the story of why they do what they do and why it’s important.” Celebrity panelists join the conversation and taste-test the recipes while audiences sample dishes created onstage. Although Minnesota Cooks Day wasn’t possible this year, the 2021 calendar will be available soon. Meanwhile, MFU continues to spotlight local foods. Partnering with Twin Cities Public Broadcasting Station, TPT, it has created Farm Fresh Road Trip, an Emmy Award-winning program, introducing viewers to farmers and restaurants across MN (visit tpt.org for episodes). It has also teamed up with Minnesota Cooks alum Birchwood Cafe, creating the F&B Pop-Up Restaurant. The menu includes State Fair favorites like Heirloom Tomato + Sweet Corn BLTs and Blueberry Key Lime Pie, made with Minnesota-grown ingredients. In May 2021, MFU will premiere The Farmer and The Chef: Farm Fresh Minnesota Recipes and Stories, a collection of local farmer profiles and tasty recipes. To learn more about Minnesota Cooks and MFU, visit www.mfu.org and www.minnesotacooks.org. Claudine Arndt is the manager of Minnesota Cooks and author of The Farmer and the Chef. Brita Moore is Public Relations & Communications Director for MFU. Special thanks to Bruce Miller, MFU’s longtime Membership & Outreach Director, who led Minnesota Cooks from 2010 until his passing in 2019.
R
Wisconsin politics with a dose of humor New episodes Fridays
local-feast.org 41
MARKET INNOVATION Making Lemonade with COVID-19 Lemons By Beth Dooley Photos by Tiffany Alexandria of Choochoo-ca-Chew Started by Sara George in Wabasha, the Farmers’ Market Hubs expanded to eight markets in 2018 through a joint initiative of Renewing the Countryside, the Minnesota Institute for Sustainable Agriculture, and the MN Farmers’ Market Association. While originally set up to aggregate products from multiple farmers for sale to institutions (e.g. schools, hospitals, nursing homes, caterers, restaurants), Jessica Joyce, Rochester Farmers Market Manager at the time, saw the opportunity to use the existing system to address challenges presented by COVID. “We took the infrastructure and flipped it for individual retail sales,” says Joyce. On March 21, the market offered its first drive-thru pickup. Instead of a few wholesale customers placing large orders, now many individual customers could purchase orders for their homes. That first Saturday, about 120 customers purchased nearly $5,000 of local products from 17 farmers. Since then, another 30 farmers have added their products to the online market. Now customers can order fruits, vegetables, meats, dairy products, bakery items, honey, flowers, and more online The Rochester Farmers Market drive-thru in Graham Park at the Olmsted County Fairgrounds. and pick them up on market day. Customers place orders online (rochfarmmkt.org/shop) by Wednesday at 11:00 PM prior to the “It was an adjustment for some of market for pickup between 9:00-Noon or delivery between 10:00-2:00 on market Saturdays. our farmers,” says Mary Glenski, Rochester Farmers Market Manager. “But they found [the Drive-thru market new system] was easier than they’d initially thought.”
When COVID-19 hit, demand for local food skyrocketed as shoppers sought closer connections to where their food came from and were increasingly worried by thinning store shelves and disrupted supply chains. Even though farmers’ markets were deemed essential businesses, some customers were anxious about shopping in person. Fortunately, the Rochester Farmers Market offered a solution.
Within a week of Minnesota’s governor issuing an executive order closing restaurants, bars and public gatherings, the Rochester Farmers Market launched an online ordering and pick-up option for their customers. They could do so, in part, because they already had an online ordering platform and the appropriate licenses in place—a result of their participation in the Farmers’ Market Hub project. 42 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Expanding customer base By June, the market added regularly-scheduled, open-air markets, welcoming customers using protocols to protect both farmers and shoppers, including everyone masked and distanced. Signs encouraged people to make liberal use of the hand washing and sanitizing stations.
Food Business Resources If you’re a food producer looking to establish a virtual presence or expand your customer base, check out these helpful resources.
Software guide
“Now shoppers have options with the online and drivethru for pick up as well as in-person market. It’s been great for our customers and for our farmers,” Glenski notes. By the end of summer, sales were nearing $180,000 through the Farmers’ Market Hub alone. Cathy Moenning of Moenning Meat Company says the new system allows them to stay in touch with customers who can no longer go out. “It feels good to know they still want our bacon, pork, and beef,” says Cathy’s 14-year-old son, John, who’s learning the family business. “Even though they can’t come here, we feel connected, and that seems really important right now.” For market vendor Hiawatha Honey, the online platform augmented the work they’d already done to establish a virtual presence. Melody Gilbertson, owner of preserve company Flavor in Jar, shared the impact it had on her business: “It was something I’d always thought of doing. This was the initial push I needed to get a website up.” The system has also expanded the market’s customer base. “Some shoppers use the online system to order an entire week’s worth of groceries for pick up,” explains Glenski. “Others order some of the more popular items ahead and pick them up as they stroll through the aisles and shop spontaneously. We also offer delivery services, which have been great for those who can’t leave their homes or who are in high-risk categories. These are vulnerable people who need fresh, nutritious food now more than ever.” While COVID may have spurred the transformation at the market, customers and farmers alike see the addition of the Online Farmers Market as a valuable community resource, providing additional income for regional farmers while safely connecting consumers to the freshest food. For more details on the market’s online and in person schedules, visit www.rochfarmmkt.org. To find other online markets across Minnesota, see farmersmarkethub.org. Beth Dooley is an Endowed Chair, Minnesota Institute for Sustainable Agriculture, a James Beard-winning writer and author of eight cookbooks, columnist for the Star Tribune, and appears regularly on MPR’s Appetites. Her most recent work, The Perennial Kitchen is focused on regenerative agriculture.
Dozens of platforms currently support direct sales to customers for farmers, food hubs and farmers markets. In early 2020, the National Young Farmers Coalition published a helpful guide to 18 of them. It highlights costs, what each provides, and makes recommendations based on sales models. For more, visit www.youngfarmers.org/wpcontent/uploads/2020/04/Farmers-Guide-to-Direct-SalesSoftware-Platforms.pdf
Financing Compeer Financial, a member-owned, Farm Credit cooperative, provides loans, leases, risk management and other financial services throughout 144 counties in Illinois, Minnesota and Wisconsin. They offer a flexible loan program for farmers selling products directly to consumers, as well as grants for existing clients. “The Compeer Financial Farmers Market Grant Program has two different grant options,” says Sai Thao, Senior Lending Officer for Compeer, “one designed to help organizations and another for farmers directly.” The organization grants help orgs enhance services to consumers and vendors, benefiting all who utilize the market. They’re geared toward marketing efforts, technology advancements, educational opportunities for vendors or market management staff or conducting research studies. The vendor grants are designed to help farmers with education, marketing or technology advancements and can include branding, website creation, or mobile payment technology products (excluding cell phones). Both grants are accepting applications from Oct.1 to Nov. 15, 2020. To qualify, you must be a current client of Compeer Financial. For terms, conditions and applications, contact grants@compeer.com or call (844) 426-6733. Compeer’s clients are also eligible for a 15% discount on their first year’s subscription to Local Line—an E-commerce and delivery platform. For more (and a free trial), visit localline.ca local-feast.org 43
Strength in Unity
Growing a foodshed to increase brand exposure and farmer support By Katie Godfrey Demmer Photos courtesy of Driftless Grown and Cannon Valley Grown
Southern Minnesota has a rich variety of food producers. Whether they’re raising pigs or sheep, growing blueberries or making cheese, each plays an important role in the local foods economy. While this work can be incredibly fulfilling, it can also be difficult to manage independently.
Jack of all trades “Not only are we doing our work as farmers, we are also forced to be jacks of all trades,” says Sarah Mann, owner of Sweet 16 Farm in Houston, Minn., which grows flowers and hops and hosts onsite events. “Marketing, bookkeeping, infrastructure and equipment repairs: one person doing everything leads to isolation and burnout. It is not a sustainable business model.” To help, Sarah reached out to her fellow Houston County producers in 2016. Together, they designed a support network to share skills and market their products as Driftless Grown, a new initiative helping producers in Minnesota’s Driftless Region. Around the same time, a group in the Cannon River watershed—an area covering several counties, including Rice and Goodhue—started exploring ways to collaboratively market their products to ease the burden of working alone. Ultimately, they came up with the concept of a regional brand called Cannon Valley Grown.
What is a Foodshed? Much like a watershed, which encompasses the flow of water supporting a particular location, a foodshed is the geographic region where food is both produced and consumed. Branding food by the place where it’s produced has become a popular marketing method as more customers choose to buy local. There was a lot of energy around building these regional brands—Cannon Valley Grown united under the umbrella of the Cannon River Chapter of the Sustainable Farming Association (SFA)—but moving forward without funding was 44 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
Sarah Mann, owner of Sweet 16 Farm in Houston, Minn. and member of the Driftless Grown initiative. a challenge. Luckily, in 2018, they received a FEAST! Smart Start Grant from Southern Minnesota Initiative Foundation (SMIF), a philanthropic organization supporting economic and early childhood development and community vitality efforts in 20 counties of southern Minnesota. “We had seen the FEAST! grant and decided to go for it,” says Gwen Anderson, Board Secretary for SFA’s Cannon River Chapter. “We put together the proposal and got the grant. A big part of it went toward developing a website for CVG and to launch the brand. It moved things forward.” The funds also helped produce a farmer directory and organize networking and educational workshops. Meanwhile, Sarah Mann and Driftless Grown worked with the Houston County Economic Development Authority on a different entrepreneur-focused SMIF grant, which they received and ultimately used to host skill-sharing workshops, launch their brand, build a website and create a multi-state product directory. In total, SMIF invested $28,000 in the two foodsheds to increase the viability of farms and strengthen the local economy.
Aaron Wills, owner of Little Hill Berry Farm in Northfield, Minn., and member of Cannon Valley Grown.
COVID-19 Impact As these groups were getting their brands up and running, the pandemic hit. While food producers were able to continue operations, there were new restrictions on face-to-face sales and disruptions to distribution channels.. SMIF reached out to Cannon Valley Grown, Driftless Grown and Renewing the Countryside—SMIF’s long-time nonprofit partner in local foods efforts—to form an alliance to support farmers during COVID. Each organization received a $10,000 Grow a Farmer Assistance Grant from SMIF to connect consumers with approximately 120 farmers in southern Minnesota.
“Some [farmers] had unexpected expenses like having to develop new signage, or implement new safety measures for cleaning and sanitizing,” Mann explains. “Many previously relied on in-person sales and needed help building an online presence.” They also built handwashing stations to distribute to farmers for free and are creating marketing campaigns to create more awareness about their brands. Despite these new challenges, farmers have seen a silver lining. As customers raced to the stores to stockpile groceries, the uncertainty about food shortages caused many people to look for local products in a way that they previously had not. “We’ve known all along that buying local is how we are the most secure,” says Mann. “The pandemic has demonstrated that importance.” With food producers from these regional foodsheds working together and learning from each other, they are creating a stronger, more resilient food system in southern Minnesota. And that’s not just good for their stability and bottom line—it’s good for us all. Southern Minnesota Initiative Foundation supports local food entrepreneurs through a variety of initiatives, primarily through the FEAST! Local Foods Network. SMIF also offers low interest loans through its Grow a Farmer Loan fund. Find out more at smifoundation. org. To learn more about these regional foodshed brands visit cannonvalleygrown.org and driftlessgrown.com.
Erin Johnson, owner of Open Hands Farm in Northfield, Minn., and member of Cannon Valley Grown.
Katie Godfrey Demmer is the communications director at SMIF. She lives in Owatonna with her husband and infant daughter. She enjoys experimenting with different recipes using vegetables she grows in their big garden. local-feast.org 45
We believe that local food is essential.
We believe that local food is essential. It is essential to our local economy, to the health of our communities and to the environment. It is essential to our local economy, to the health of our communities and the environment. Join the Local Food isto Essential Movement
Join the Local Food is Essential Movement
EAT LOCAL PLEDGE
1. Every time I go shopping for food I will swap out one non-local item for one item grown by a local farmer! 2. I will keep my eyes and ears open for places to buy local food. 3. I will ask my local stores and eateries what local food items they stock, including produce and packaged products. 4. I will make a noise and raise a flag for local foods, whether by talking to friends and family about how local foods enrich local communities, by sharing my finds on social media, or by planting a Local Food is Essential sign in my yard. 5. I will endeavor to listen and learn stories of those who work on the land to bring food to our tables. I will get to know more farmers. I will celebrate them!
Finding Local Foods
Local Food is Essential localfoodisessential.org/resources Minnesota Grown minnesotagrown.com/ Farm Fresh Atlas (Wisconsin) farmfreshatlas.org Neighbor Loaves graincollaborative.com/neighbor-loaves
Take the Eat Local pledge and find ways to support local farmers and makers at
Photo courtesy of Farm Table Foundation, Amery, WI
LOCALFOODISESSENTIAL.ORG Take the Eat Local pledge and find ways to support local farmers and makers at
LOCALFOODISESSENTIAL.ORG
46 FEAST! Local Foods Magazine
LocalFoodisEssential LocalFoodMN /LocalFoodisEssential/
SOUTHEAST MINNESOTA N VA L NO
Y LE
CAN
Find local foods
GR
OWN
@cannonvalleygrown #cannonvalleygrown
@driftlessgrown #driftlessgrown
@minnesotagrownmda @minnestoagrown #minnesotagrown
cannonvalleygrown.org
driftlessgrown.com
minnesotagrown.com
Photo courtesy of Tyler Anderson / Driftless Visuals
local-feast.org 47
GIVE YOUR GOALS SPACE TO GROW.
LET’S MAKE YOUR PLANS A REALITY, TOGETHER.
We see potential in your plans. Whether your farm is a non-traditional operation marketing directly to consumers — or through local and regional food systems — our Emerging Markets lending specialists can provide financial solutions designed to give you the tools needed to succeed. And our experienced financial team will guide you every step of the way. Partner with us to make your goals possible. COMPEER.COM/EMERGINGMARKETS
Sai Thao, Lending Officer (612) 597-4086 Sai.Thao@compeer.com
(844) 426-6733 | #CHAMPIONRURAL
Paul Dietmann, Sr. Lending Officer (608) 963-7763 Paul.Dietmann@compeer.com
Compeer Financial can provide assistance with financing and operations based on historical data and industry expertise. Compeer Financial does not provide legal advice
or certified financial Magazine planning. Compeer Financial, ACA is an Equal Credit Opportunity Lender and Equal Opportunity Provider and Employer. © 2020 All rights reserved. 48 FEAST! Local Foods