Chris Rodmell - Inis Meáin by RRB Photobooks

INIS MEÁIN 1973 - 2023

Chris Rodmell

Réamhrá Síneann trí Oileán Árann trasna béal Chuan na Gaillimhe ag cosaint cathair

agus go minic ag brath ar threo na gaoithe, théadh sí le sruth amach go dtí béal

na Gaillimhe agus an chuain istigh ó stoirmeacha agus suathadh an Atlantaigh.

an tSunda agus curachaí dhá leanacht. Ní raibh áiseanna oideachais ar fáil tar

Fáigheann na “trí chalóga aolchloiche” seo, mar a thugann Tim Robinson orthu,

éis na bunscoile. Thaisteal formhór na ndéagóirí chuig scoileanna cónaithe ar

feannadh láidir ó stoirmeacha móra an gheimhridh ag creimiú na naillteacha ar

an mórthír don dara leibhéal, agus thit cuid mhaith acu amach as an gcóras

an taobh thiar agus thiar theas d’Árainn.

oideachais ar fad tar éis cúpla bliain.

Tá cuan measartha foscúil ar an taobh thoir thuaidh d’Inis Mór (Árainn ). Cé

Nuair a tháinig Chris Rodmell as Sasana an bhliain sin, agus nuair rinne sé an

nach bhfuil Inis Oírr chomh foscúil le Inis Mór, go traidisiúnta bhí sé i bhfad

scannán a bhuaigh duais mac léinn dó - Inishmaan Another Day - thaifead sé

níos éasca teacht i dtír ar an trá ó thuaidh ansin ná mar a bhí sé in Inis Meáin, áit

agus chláraigh sé saol a bhí gan mórán athrú thar mar a bhí sé nuair chuir Synge

nach raibh ach “cladach suarach”, mar a thug Tim Robinson air. Séard a bhí ann,

síos air beagnach 70 bliain roimhe sin. Bhí sé seo roimh na forbairtí suntasacha

sleamhnán gairid ag síneadh isteach sa bhfarraige sa Sunda Salach. Stráice farraige

cultúrtha agus struchtúra a tháinig ina dhiaidh sin agus a d’athraigh Inis Meáin go

a bhí ainmnithe go maith mar go gcruthaíonn na maidhmeanna suathadh mór sa

mór, ó bheith ina phobal thar a bheith neamhspleách agus a bhí in ann seasamh

sunda, áit a ritheann sí anuas le fórsa idir Inis Oírr agus Inis Meáin. Bhí misneach,

ar a gcosa féin. Pobal scoite, amach as féin.

scil agus deaslámhacht ag teastáil le curach a láimhseáil sna coinníolacha seo. Seo mar a bhí an gnáthmhodh iompair agus taisteal anseo. Mar sin bhí an t-oileán

Mar a tharla, ba i 1973 a shocraigh Áine agus mé féin ar athlonnú ó Bhaile

níos scoite amach i gcónaí, i gcomparáid leis an dá oileán eile.

Átha Cliath go háit dúchais Áine in Inis Meáin le bheith páirteach i mbunú an Chomharchumainn forbartha pobail áitiúil agus é mar aidhm againn bunstruchtúr

Ní raibh aon tionchar ón taobh amuigh – Béarla ná garda cósta, ná póilíní srl. agus

agus fostaíocht a chur ar fáil chun an áit a dhéanamh níos feiliúnaí d’oileánaigh

bhí an Ghaeilge a labhraíodh saibhir agus líofa go nádúrtha. Is anseo a tháinig

óga a bhí ag dul ar imirce go tréan. Bhíomar ar an eolas faoi scannán Chris agus

scoláirí, scríbhneoirí agus ceannairí na gluaiseachta réabhlóidí ag tús an 20ú aois

bhíomar i dteagmháil leis ó am go chéile thar na blianta ó 1973 ach ní fhaca muid

chun a gcuid Gaeilge a fhoghlaim nó a fheabhsú agus le tarraingt as an tobar

a chuid transparencies iontacha 6 x 6 tarraingthe ar Kodak Ektachrome , a bhí

teanga neamhthruaillithe. Tugadh “ Ollscoil na Gaeilge” ar theach amháin san

ina sheilbh ar feadh 40 bliain go dtí 2011, de réir dealraimh. Nuair a sheol sé an

oileán (Oifig an Phoist). Tháinig an drámadóir J M Synge ar cuairt cheithre uaire

grianghraf iontach álainn seo chugainn d’fhear agus a ucht le claí aige ag comhrá

idir 1898 agus 1902 agus scríobh sé cur síos álainn ar Inis Meáin agus a muintir

lena chomharsa a bhí ag baint punanna tuí, agus iad leagtha go néata ina bhuaile

(The Aran Islands), agus spreagadh é chun cuid mhór dá shaothar drámatúil a

bheag ar nós radharc a phéinteálfadh Van Gogh. Rinne muid iontas de.

scríobh, bunaithe ar scéalta agus ar imeachtaí áitiúla a tharla san oileán lena linn. Tá athrú mór tagtha ar Inis Meáin le 25 bliain anuas, go háirithe le córas taistil Ar feadh an chéad 50 bliain de neamhspleáchas in Éirinn d’fhéadfá a rá go raibh

níos éasca. Bhí Chris Rodmell ar ais ar an oileán i mbliana tar éis leath-chéad

faillí mhór déanta ar na h-oileáin amach ón gcósta maidir le bunstruchtúr agus

bliain leis an athrú seo a chlárú agus le comparáid a dhéanamh idir an sean agus an

bunchumhachta a sholáthar don phobal, chomh maith le háiseanna oideachais.

saol mar atá sé anois. Tugann an leabhar seo léargas dúinn ar chultúr ár sinsir agus

Mar sin ní raibh mórán athraithe tagtha ó aimsir Synge nuair a tháinig Chris

tuiscint agus meas níos fearr don ghlún óg ar shaibhreas agus neamhspleáchas an

Rodmell anseo i 1973. Ní raibh aon leictreachas, ná aon uisce reatha sna tithe.

mhuintir a chuaigh romhainn.

Is i gcurach a tugadh chuile rud, idir bia, deoch agus earraí ginearálta i dtír ar

an oileán. Mara chéile le easpórtáil stoc agus fataí amach go dtí an bád mór as

Tá seirbhís iontach tugtha ag Chris dúinn uilig, le taifead agus foilsiú na

Gaillimh – An Naomh Éanna - agus í ar ancaire 300m go 400m ón sleamhnán

ngrianghraf seo.

Foreword The three Aran Islands stretch across the mouth of Galway Bay protecting

facilities were non-existent after primary school. Most young teenagers travelled

Galway city and the inner bay from the full force of the Atlantic storms and high

to mainland boarding schools for second level, many dropping out after a couple

seas. These “three tender flakes of Limestone” as Tim Robinson describes them

of years.

take a huge pounding in winter storms which eat away at the cliffs on the west and south west of Aran.

When Chris Rodmell arrived from England that year, and shot his student award winning film Inishmaan Another Day, he recorded and documented an island

Inis Mór (Árainn) has a relatively sheltered bay to its north east side. Inis Oírr,

that was relatively unchanged from the one described by Synge almost 70 years

though more exposed than Inis Mór, was traditionally much more accessible by

previously. This was before the significant cultural and structural developments

boat on its north shore than the regularly storm-bound Inis Meáin. Here we could

that radically changed Inis Meáin from a hugely independent, self-sufficient

only boast of what Tim Robinson called “a dismal shore”, that for years consisted

community living largely in isolation.

of a short slipway on its south east side, in the middle of the appropriately named Foul Sound where the Atlantic swells funnel between Inis Meáin and Inis Oírr

Coincidentally, it was in 1973 that Áine and I decided to relocate from Dublin

creating huge turbulence in rough weather. Here, launching and beaching a

to Áine’s home place in Inis Meáin to become involved in setting up the

curach (round bottomed canoe) which was the usual means of transport required

local community development Cooperative with the aim of providing basic

huge courage, skill and dexterity. So the island was always relatively inaccessible,

infrastructure and employment to make the place more attractive to young

compared with the other two islands.

islanders, who were more inclined to opt for emigration than a life in the island. We were aware of Chris’s film and were in touch with him occasionally over the

There was no outside or English-speaking influence, no coastguards, police etc.

years since 1973 but had never seen his amazing 6 x 6 transparencies shot on

and the Irish spoken was naturally rich and fluent. So it was here that the Irish

Kodak Ektachrome, which apparently lay in his film-making desk for 40 years

scholars, writers and leaders of the revolutionary movement at the beginning

until 2011. When he sent us this incredibly beautiful photo of a local man

of the 20th century came to learn or improve their Irish and draw from the

leaning over a fence chatting with his neighbour who was harvesting sheafs of

unpolluted linguistic well. Here, one house - the Post Office - became known as

straw, neatly lain in his little field like a scene from a Van Gogh painting, we were

“Ollscoil na Gaeilge or the Gaelic University”. Dramatist J.M Synge came on four

gobsmacked.

visits between 1898 and 1902 and wrote a beautiful description of Inis Meáin and its people (The Aran Islands), and was inspired to write much of his dramatic

Inis Meáin has changed a lot, particularly with easier access in the past 25 years.

work, based on local stories and events.

Chris Rodmell has been back to document the change, and hold a mirror up, so as we can compare the new with the old and hopefully appreciate better the

For the first 50 years of independence, the new Irish State left the offshore islands

culture of independence and self-sufficiency of the older generation who made

way down on its priority list for provision of basic power and infrastructure

this place so special in years gone by.

as well as educational facilities. So much so, that when Chris Rodmell arrived here in 1973 there was no electricity and no running water in the houses. All

Chris has done us all a great service in recording and publishing these photos.

imported food drink and general merchandise, and exported cattle sheep, pigs and potatoes were transported by curach rowed out to the big ship from Galway,

Tarlach de Blácam

the Naomh Éanna, anchored 300m to 400m from the slipway and, depending on wind direction, often drifting out to the mouth of Foul Sound. Educational 5

An chéad smaoineamh a bhuailfeadh duine, carraig chrua ag seasamh an-

The very first impression that one takes is the impression of a solid

sin go dúshlánach, beag beann ar a gcaitheann an Atlantach ina héadan.

rock and perhaps something which has been standing there, resisting

Déarfainn nach bréag a rá go bhfuil cuid den dúshlan céanna sna daoine.

everything that the Atlantic could throw up at it. And I think it would be

Tiocfaidh daoine agus imeoidh daoine ach go seasfaidh siad féin agus

true to say that the people here have something of the same quality, that

an t-oileán agus an córas saoil atá cothaithe leis na cianta, gan bhuíochas

perhaps men may come and men may go, but that they and their island

d’aon tionchair a thiocfaidh ina dtreo.

and the whole value system that is fostered over the centuries will stand, no matter what are the influences which may come in. Father Joe Kearney. Priest, Inis Meáin 1973. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Chuirfinn cuid mhaith i bhfocal amháin, saoirse. Ón gclog go háirthid.

I could put a lot in one word, freedom. Mostly from the clock. I can work

Féadaim mo chuid oibre a dhéanamh nuair atá an fonn sin orm agus mo

whenever I like it and whenever I feel fit and sit down for a rest whenever

scíth a thógáil nuair a thograím. Ní thugann aon duine anseo áird ar an

I want it. Nobody bothers about the clock here. They all work in their

gclog. Déanann siad a gcuid oibre ina nám féin.

own time. Peadar Ó Fátharta. Publican on the island. From an interview recorded in 1973.

A bheith scoite amach an námhaid is nó atá ag an oileán. Sí an bád a thu-

The greatest enemy we have here in the island is the isolation. The boat

gann chugainn earraí bia agus gach a mbíonn ag teastáil uainn. Sí frei-sin

brings all our foodstuffs and everything and anything we need. And then

a thugann amach na beithí a díoltar agus aon rud eile a bheadh le díol

whatever we have to sell, like the cattle we send it out on the boat. It’s our

againn. Gan í bheadh muid fágtha ar an bhfaraor géar. Sa gheimhridh,

only means of transport to the mainland, as regards cargo, it’s our lifeline.

má thagann seachtain farraigí arda agus gálaí, agus nach seolann an bád,

If in the winter we get a week of heavy seas and gales and the boat misses

bíonn ganntan sa siopa.

for the week, things are going short in the shop. Peadar Ó Fátharta. Publican on the island. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Tá deacrachtaí anseo nach bhfuil in aon áit eile. Má tá beithí agat, iad a

There are difficulties here that aren’t anywhere else. Even the difficulty, if

thabhairt chuig an oileán nó á gcur amach. Níl teacht ar thréadlia nuair

you want to have livestock, of getting them on to the island and getting

a theastaíonn sé. Tá siad ag obair leis na curachaí i gconaí mar a rinne a

them off the island. Difficulties if a farmer in a normal situation can

sinsir leis na céadta bliain.

expect to get all kinds of veterinary help, and that isn’t available to them here. They have to continue to work as they’ve been doing right down through the centuries from currachs. Father Joe Kearney. Priest, Inis Meáin 1973. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Cuirtear ceanrach orthu i dtosach agus tarraíngitear iad síos go dtí an

First of all, there’s a halter put on them, and then they drag it down to

t-uisce. Ansin cuirtear téad ciorcalach thart ar an gcabhail agus sáitear

the water’s edge, and then there’s a sling, a circular length of rope put

ceann den téad thrí shúil ar an gceann eile lena fháisceadh. Ceanglaítear

around them, and one end of the rope out through the other end of it

ruóg ón téad go dtí na ceathrúna agus na guaillí lena choinneál in áit.

and tightened down on their backs. Then it’s held tight down there over

Bíonn dream ar an talamh ag brú an bheithíoch amach agus tarraingíonn

their shoulders and over their hind quarters by twine. It’s held tight by

an fear ar dheiridh na curaí é go mbíonn sé á bhaint. Bíonn triúr ag

twine. And then this rope after the halter on to the back of the collar and

iomradh. Snámhann sé ansin amach go dtí an bád. Crochtar ar bord é leis

there’s one feller in the back, especially for the job to pull the beast out.

an gcrann tochrais.

And then there’s three men rowing, and then the other fellas pushed the beast into the sea until he is out of his depth. And then he swims and the feller on the back of the craft drags him along up to the stern of the currach, and they pull it out to the boat. And then the fella behind him on the back that’s pulling the beast, he comes around, gets the hook off of the boat and pulls this out in this loop. And the sling and the winch and the boat hoists up. Peadar Ó Fátharta. Publican on the island. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Beidh triúr fear ag iomradh agus duine ar an seas deiridh agus greim

And there’d be three men rowing and one in the stern of the currach. And

adharca aige ar an mbeithíoch. Bíonn rópa eile timpeall na nadharca agus

the cow has to be held by the horns. They have another rope around their

ar an mbéal lena choinneál as an uisce. Tarraingíonn siad amach iad agus

horns too, and around their mouth to keep their mouth off the water.

nuair a thagann siad chomh fada leis an Naomh Éanna, caitear amach

And they drag them out. They tow them out and when they reached the

crúca ón mbád, cuirtear an crúca sa téad agus crochtar na beithí suas ar

Naomh Nanna, that’s the ferry, they throw down a hook, from the ferry,

bord, agus isteach i bpionnaí. Tógtar amach iad ar an mbealach céanna ar

and they put the hook on the sling and they lift them up the onto the

chéibh na Gaillimhe.

boat and the hull, put them inside the pens and leave them there until they get to Galway and they lift them out onto the pier . Rùairí Ò Coincheanainn. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Síltear go neascraíonn na pisreoga as iarracht an duine leis an gceann is

Your superstition is generally formed by elements in a person’s life that

fearr a fháil ar chuid de na nithe ina shaol a ghineann faitíos nó réasún

arouse fear; superstition might be as useful a way as any of of combating

eicint a fháil orthu. Gan amhras is bainteach leis an bhfarraige atá an

or rationalising some of those fears. And I think the sea, without any

chuid is mó de phisreoga na noileanaí agus déarfainn ar fud na gcóstaí.

doubt, is the one thing that has more superstition attached to it than

Tá daoine ann nach dtógfaidh corp as an uisce mar go gcreideann siad

anything else for people on the islands. And I suppose for people on sea

má thógann go mbeidh a díoltas ag an bhfarraige ar an duine sin nó ar a

coasts, everywhere. We sea people for example, will never take a corpse

mhuintir. Fágtar ag na póilíos nó an sagart é le déanamh. Sé a mhalairt

out of the water because they believe that the sea will claim its own dead,

de scéal é nuair a báitear duine. Chuala mé scéalta ó shagairt a bhí anseo

and that if you take away a dead something that the sea has taken the life

romhaim gur chreid daoine go láidir go dtiocfadh an corp ar ais agus ní

from, that is going to have its revenge on you or on your people. It will

bheadh suaimhneas ná síochán i ndán dóibh go mbeadh an corp fáighte.

often be left for the the police or a priest to remove a corpse from the water. Island people themselves will not. Again, it’s very, very important for them, you know, which is slightly in counterpoint to this that a body be recovered after a drowning. This is very important. I’ve heard stories from priests who were here before me of people who remained absolutely convinced that a body would come back and that they would be disturbed until such time as a body would be picked up and then they would be at peace with themselves again, that the body was back. Father Joe Kearney. Priest, Inis Meáin 1973. From an interview recorded in 1973.

B’iascaire m’athair, mo sheanathair agus mo shin-sheanathair. Cuid dem’

My father was a fisherman. My grandfather. My great grandfather.

shaol é.

It’s part of my life. Rùairí Ò Coincheanainn. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Sí an bhean a choinníonn an chlann dlúth le chéile. Sí a thógann na

The woman holds the family together. She rears the family, looks after the

gasúir, agus a thugann aire dóibh. Ní dhéanann an fear ach na fataí a chur

children, and the man just grows the potatoes, sells the potatoes, feeds

agus na beithí a bheathú agus iad a dhíol agus cé’s moite dó sin, sí an

the cattle but apart from that, the woman does everything else.

bhean a dhéanann chuile rud eile. Peige (Lally) Ní Chonghaile. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Tosaíonn siad scoil in aois 4 nó 5 de bhlianta. Tá an clár céanna acu mar

They start school at age of 4 or 5 and they have the same programme

atá leagtha amach ag an Roinn Oideachais. Is í an Ghaeilge teanga an

that’s set out by the Department of Education. And everything is taught

teagaisc. In aois 12 nó 13 téann siad don mhórthír más fúthu leanacht

through the medium of Irish and at the age of 12 or 13 they leave for the

don oideachas.

mainland if they wish, to further their education.

Bhí an-saol againn ina ngasúir, ag imirt cluichí leis an gcuid eile agus ag

We had a fantastic childhood, we played games like everybody else and

éisteacht le scéalta san oíche. Ba an-seanchaí é m’athair. Ba bheag narbh

night time was always storytelling, my father was a great storyteller. It

é an scéal céanna a d’insíodh sé chaon dara oíche, muid suite cois tine,

was the same story nearly every second night. But we listened to this

paidreacha ansin agus a chodhladh. D’imrití cluichí ar an Domhnach

with us sitting around the fire, played a few games and went to bed, said

agus bhíodh cluiche ar leith do gach séasúr.

prayers, on Sundays, everybody played some kind of game, community games, and there was a game for every season. Peige (Lally) Ní Chonghaile. From an interview recorded in 1973.

Mholfainn d’fhear óg ar bith a raibh rún aige cur faoi san oileán nó

I’d advise any young man that had in mind to stay on the island for good

pósadh anseo, mholfainn dó maireachtáil taobh amuigh ar feadh tamaill,

and to get married here, I’d advise him to go outside for a while, for a

ar feadh cupla bliain leis an saol taobh amuigh a fheiceáil. Mar má bhíonn

couple of years to see how they live outside. Just because if he has a family,

clann aige tá fhios aige go mbeidh ar an gclann sin an t-oileán a fhágáil.

he knows well that family will have to leave the island and then if he has

Sa gcás sin bheadh fhios aige le comhairle a chur orthu mar go raibh sé

been outside himself, he could prepare his children for the outside world

th’éis an saol taobh amuigh a fheiceáil dhó féin, agus bheadh sé ábalta a

before they leave the island. I left the island myself, and I had a different

chlann a ré-iteach le h-aghaidh an saol taobh amuigh sula bhfágfadh siad

picture altogether to the outside world, by leaving the island myself, I

an t-oileán. D’fhága mise an t-oileán mé féin agus bhí pictiúr difrúil uilig

found out a lot. I learned a lot, and I hope I’d be able to prepare my

agam den saol taobh amuigh thar mar a cheap mé a bhí sé. D’fhoghlaim

children for the outside world before they leave the island and tell them

mé go leor de bharr a bheith i mo chónaí taobh amuigh. Agus bhí mé in

what it is like, it’s not all sunshine outside. I thought it was before I left,

ann mo chlann a réiteach le h-aghaidh an saol taobh amuigh, cur síos a

but I found that out.

dhéanamh dóibh ar an saol sin, agus cé leis a bhí sé cosúil. Bhí mé in ann

a mhíniú dóibh nach raibh saol na bhfuíoll amuigh ansin. Cheap mise go

Rùairí Ò Coincheanainn.

raibh, sular fhága mé fhéin, ach fuair mé a mhalairt amach.

From an interview recorded in 1973.

Róisín Ní Chonghaile is ainm dom agus tá conaí orm ar Inis Meáin, Oileán

Mac Néill, an t-Athair Eoghan Ó Gramhnaigh, Pádraig Mac Piarais agus a

Árainn. Róisín Mháirtín Pháidín Shaoibhín an t-ainm áitiúil atá orm. Is

ghrá geal Eibhlín Nic Niocaill.

múinteoir bunscoile mé anseo i Scoil Náisiúnta Inis Meáin. Is áit bheag é Inis Meáin ach bíonn neart le déanamh agus le ceiliúradh i Rugadh agus tógadh ar Inis Meáin mé i measc mo mhuintir, mo chairde

gcónaí. Sampla de seo ná ar an gcéad lá den bhliain nua téann ‘Na Ceapairí’,

agus gaolta, agus ceann de na pobail is deise dá bhfuil ann. Fuair mé mo

buachaillí óga an oileáin, timpeall ó theach go teach ag guí beannacht ar

chuid bunoideachais ar fad ar an oileán i Scoil Náisiúnta Inis Meáin agus

mhuintir an oileáin. Seo í an phaidir a bhíonn acu:

d’fhreastal mé ar an meánscoil anseo chomh maith, Coláiste Naomh Eoin. Is tríd an oideachas agus mo chuid múinteoirí a neartaigh an dlúthcheangal

‘Bail ó Dhia sa teach seo

idir mé féin agus m’áit chónaithe. Deirtear gur ar scáth a chéile a mhaireann

An Chéad lá den bliain nua

na daoine ach ní fhéadfadh sé sin a bheith níos soiléire in Inis Meáin mar

Más fearr atá sibh inniu

cothaítear an grá ins na páistí dá n-áit dhúchais. Tá an t-ádh orm féin go

Go mba seacht bhfearr a bheidh sibh bliain ó inniu’

pearsanta go raibh an deis agam oideachas níos tábhachtaí fós a fháil agus mé ag fás aníos.

Bail ó Dhia sa teach seo Sampla eile ná ‘Na Brídeoga’ ar Inis Meáin do chailíní óga chun ceiliúradh a dhéanamh ar Naomh Bríd. Ba í Naomh Bríd

Ó bhí mé i mo chailín beag, bhí ceirdeanna agus seanchas an oileáin le

‘Muire na nGael’ agus ní haon ionadh gur traidisiún é seo a mhaireann fós

brath i mo thimpeall ar fad; cniotáil, caoladóireacht, béaloideas, nósanna,

ar an oileán. Is cuimhin liom tithe an oileáin a shiúl gach bliain ar an 31ú

filíocht, scéalaíocht agus amhránaíocht. Ba í mo mhamó Máirín Thomáis

Eanáir, Oíche Fhéile Bríde. Seo í an phaidir a déarfadh muid:

Uí Dhomhnaill, an bhean cniotála a bhí i gceannas ar thionscail beag lámh cniotála a bhunaigh Pádraig Ó Síochán sna seascadaí. Bhí Pádraig istigh go

“Crios, crios,

mór le Conradh na Gaeilge agus ba chara mór leis na hoileánaigh é de bhrí

Bríd i mo chios,

go raibh an-ómós léirithe aige don Ghaeilge.

Muire is a Mac, Bríd is a Brat.

Ba caoladóir é mo dhaideo Micilín Pháidín Ó Conghaile. Rinne sé ciseoga,

Más fearr ata sibh anocht,

cléibh agus ciseáin. Rinne sé as sail iad agus tá go leor garranta sailigh san

Go mba seacht bhfearr

oileán. Bhíodh chuile dhuine ag déanamh a gcuid cléibh féin fadó ach

A bheidh sibh

ní chleachtann mórán daoine an cheird seo níos mó. Bhí ceangal láidir i

Bliain ó anocht.”

gcónaí ag mo mhuintir leis an nGaeilge agus dul chun cinn na Gaeilge mar go raibh uncail le mo Dhaideo, Seán Shaoibhín Ó Conghaile ag obair do

Is traidisiúin iad seo a bhí ann ó thús aimsire agus a choinníonn cairdeas

Chonradh na Gaeilge.

agus muintearas idir páistí an oileáin agus an pobal i gcónaí. Is áit é Inis Meáin a choinníonn greim ar na traidisiúin sa saol nua-aimseartha mar is

Cé go bhfuair mé scolaíocht den scoth, is ó mo mhuintir a fuair mé an grá

iad na traidisiúin seo a chruthaigh an pobal Gaelach, cairdiúil agus umhal

agus an meas atá agam ar an oileán agus ar an teanga. Is i nGaeilge amháin

atá againn.

a labhair agus a labhraím le mo chlann. Thagadh daoine móra le rá go hInis Meáin ag foghlaim a gcuid Gaeilge ar nós John Millington Synge, Eoin

My name is Róisín Conneely. I live on Inis Meáin, one of the three Aran

Inis Meáin is a small place, yet there are many events and occasions to

Islands. Locally I am known as Róisín Mháirtín Pháidín Shaoibhín. I am

honour and celebrate. A sample of those days is on New Year’s Day ‘Na

a primary school teacher here on the island in Scoil Náisiúnta Inis Meáin.

Ceapairí’, young boys of the island, go door to door and bless each house on the island. This is their prayer:

I was born and raised on Inis Meáin amongst my family, friends, neighbours and especially, one of the friendliest communities. I received both my

Bail ó Dhia sa teach seo

primary and secondary education on the island. It was through education

An Chéad lá den bliain nua

and my teachers that strengthened my passion and connection to my

Más fearr atá sibh inniu

homeplace. They say that people live in each other’s shadows and that could

Go mba seacht bhfearr a bheidh sibh bliain ó inniu’

not be truer about Inis Meáin because it is instilled in the children from a young age to love their birthplace. Personally, I feel privileged to have grown

In a similar fashion on the 31st of January, the young girls of the island bring

up with a more important education.

‘Na Brídeoga’ from house to house and bless the islanders on the day before Spring begins. It is no surprise that this tradition continues on the island

Ever since I was a young girl, I grew up surrounded by the traditions

today as Brigid was also known as ‘Muire na nGael’. I vividly remember

and crafts; knitting, weaving, folklore, customs, poetry, storytelling and

walking from house to house with my fellow partner and blessing each

singing. My grandmother, Máirín Thomáis Uí Dhomhnaill, was the local

house on Saint Brigid’s Eve. This is the prayer we would recite:

manageress for a small hand-knitting company founded by Pádraig Ó Síochán in the sixties. Pádraig was a huge enthusiast for the Irish language

“Crios, crios,

and Conradh na Gaeilge (The Gaelic League). Both Pádraig and the

Bríd i mo chios,

islanders had a great friendship throughout the years due to his love for the

Muire is a Mac,

Irish language.

Bríd is a Brat. Más fearr ata sibh anocht,

My grandfather, Micilín Pháidín Ó Conghaile, was a weaver. He made

Go mba seacht bhfearr

ciseoga, cléibh and baskets from sally and we have a lot of sally gardens on the

A bheidh sibh

island. Everyone made all their own cléibh years ago but not many practices

Bliain ó anocht.”

this craft anymore. My family have always had a strong connection with the Irish language as my grandfather’s uncle, Seán Shaoibhín Ó Conghaile,

These traditions have been on Inis Meáin since their beginning, and

worked for Conradh na Gaeilge for many years.

it is through these traditions that the children of the island make connections and friendships with the community. Inis Meáin holds

Although I received an excellent education, rich in culture, it is through

on tightly to these traditions through the modern world because

my family that I learned how to love and respect my first language, Gaeilge.

it is because of them a friendly, respectful, and Gaelic community

I speak only in Irish with my family. Very popular Irish names made the

was created.

journey to Inis Meáin over the years to improve their Gaeilge such as John Millington Synge, Eoin McNeil, Father Eoghan Ó Gamhnaigh, Patrock Pearsa and his sweetheart Eveyln Nichols.

Is áit lán le stair agus cultúr é an t-oileán agus tá an t-ádh orainn go bhfuil an oiread le foghlaim ag sean agus óg ar leac an dorais. Tá na dúnta, toibreacha beannaithe, teampaill agus séipéil, fulacht fia na bhFianna, Leaba Dhiarmada agus Ghráinne, Trácht Each, Leac John Blake Dillon agus tuilleadh. Ní fios cén saibhreas cultúrtha atá le foghlaim ar an oileán. Ní haon ionadh mar sin gur roghnaigh mé an mhúinteoireacht mar ghairm beatha dom féin. Rugadh agus tógadh le Gaeilge shaibhir mé agus ba mhaith liom an meas agus an urraim atá agam don Ghaeil-ge agus don oileán álainn seo a roinnt le gasúir na háite. Is iad na gasúir seo todhchaí an oileáin agus a choinníonn na traidisiúin áille seo beo. Is iomaí lá a ritheann an smaoineamh liom go bhfuil an t-ádh orm a bheith ar ais ag cónaí ar an oileán álainn seo arís – Inis Meáin. Cé gur imigh mé as an oileán ar feadh tamaill chun oideachas a chuir orm féin agus taithí saoil a fháil, bhí Inis Meáin i gcúl mo chinn i gcónaí agus bhí súil agam teacht ar ais chun cónaí ar an oileán lá éigin amach anseo. Is nuair a d’fhág mé chun dul chuig an gcoláiste agus nuair a thosaigh mé ag múineadh i scoileanna ar an mórthír, a thuig mé an cultúr aoibhinn gaelach atá againn ar Inis Meáin. Beidh sé dhá bhliain i mbliana ó d’éirigh liom post buan a fháil mar mhúinteoir ar Inis Meáin. Tá mé ar ais i m’áit dhúchais agus beidh mé buíoch go deo gur éirigh liom fás aníos i measc an phobail seo. Is é mo mhian ná an Ghaeilge a chur chun cinn ar an oileán agus daoine eile a mhealladh chun cónaí ar an oileán amach anseo. Tá súil agam go n-éireoidh leat cuairt a thabhairt ar Inis Meáin lá éigin sa todhchaí chun na traidisiúin seo a fheiceáil agus cuid den seanchas a chloisteáil óna daoine. Róisín Ní Chonghaile

The island is full of history and steeped in culture and we are privileged here that so many learning opportunities for young and old are right on our doorstep! We have the forts from the Bronze Age, holy wells, temples, and churches, Fulacht Fia (barbeque) from the Fianna, Leaba Dhiarmad agus Ghráinne, Trácht Each, The Sill of John Blake Dillon and much more. There is no limit to the amount of rich culture there is to be explored on this island. Not a day goes by that I don’t think of how lucky I am to be back living on this beautiful island again – Inis Meáin. It is no surprise that I chose teaching as a profession for myself. I was born and raised and my level of Irish feels priceless nowadays. I feel determined to share with the children the respect I have for the Irish Language and the island. These children are the future of the island, and it is them who keep these traditions alive. Granting that I left the island to educate myself further and to find a job, Inis Meáin was always there, at the back of my mind and I had dreamt that one day I could return to live there fulltime. It was when I left for college and started teaching on the mainland that I realised the vast amount of cultural knowledge we have on Inis Meáin. It is almost two years now since I got my dream job of working as a teacher permanently on the island. I am back home, and I will be forever grateful that I got to experience growing up in such a cultured and welcoming community. It is my wish to expand the Irish language amongst the community here and to inspire others to come and live here one day also. I hope that you will visit Inis Meáin someday in the future and get the opportunity to see these traditions for yourself. Róisín Conneely

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Curachaí 20 troigh trí sheas atá ann den chuid is mó. Dair Meiriceánach

Most currachs are about 20 foot long and it’s rowed by three men. It has

atá sna fonsaí agus péine bhán sna heascnachaí agus sna liúrachaí.

wooden frames of American Oak latches and American oak ribs and

Clúdaitear é le canbhás a mbíonn cóta tiubh teara air taobh istigh agus

white D latches and is covered with stretched canvas heavily painted

amuigh. Thart ar thrí troigh go leith leithead na curaí ina lár. Bíonn sí

with tar inside and outside. About three and half foot wide in the middle.

cruinn fúithi, sin é is fearr linn mar gur éasca í a láimhsiú nuair a bhíonn

We prefer a round bottom, especially on a rough day. It’s a lot easier to

an fhar-raige suaite. Níl aon chontúirt ag baint leo nuair atá fios do

handle it in heavy seas. When you know how to handle them, they’re not

ghnótha agat á láimhsiú.

dangerous. Rùairí Ò Coincheanainn. From an interview recorded in 1973.

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Má chaitheann tú súil thart ar an oileán níl oiread is troigh cearnach

If you look around the island, there isn’t one square foot of soil which

créfóige nach le lámh a dearnadh é. Breathnaigh mar seo air, dream

hasn’t been made by hand. I think if you think of a group of people

daoine thuas ar charraig ag tabhairt faoin bhfarraige i ndiaidh an éisc. Iad

perched on a rock, which itself has resisted the sea and that they sally

ag déanamh créfóige as an ngaineamh agus an fheamainn a scuabtar i dtír

forth from that rock to fish from it, that the sea throws up sand and

le gur féidir leo maireachtáil ar an oileán.

seaweed, and from that sand and seaweed they made soil to allow them to continue to live on the island. Father Joe Kearney. Priest, Inis Meáin 1973. From an interview recorded in 1973.

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Tá daoine ina gcónaí san oileán seo suas le 3000 nó 4000 bliain, ag brath

People have been living on this island for perhaps 3000, 4000 years,

ar cén dáta a chuirfeas tú ar na dúnta. Agus ar bhealach amháin nó ar

depending on how far back you choose to date the forts. And in one way

bhealach eile, bhí na h-oileáin seo lárnach i luath-stair na hÉireann agus

or another, the islands have played a major part in earlier Irish history

cinnte i stair na Críostaíochta.

and certainly in the history of Christianity. Father Joe Kearney. Priest, Inis Meáin 1973. From an interview recorded in 1973.

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NOTES Page 7

Páidín Taimín Ó Meachair (standing) and Beartla Mháirtín Ó Cualáin harvesting his field of rye

Page 19

Máirtín Ó Fátharta

Page 21

Séamus Ó Cualáin

Page 22

Micheál Ó Coincheanainn

Page 33

Naomh Éanna ferry

Page 39

16mm frame from Inishmaan Another Day, 1973

Page 41

Rescuing the currach…….Crew very wet but nobody injured

Page 43

Rùairí Ò Coincheanainn. 16mm frame from Inishmaan Another Day, 1973

Page 45

Looking south from near Synge’s chair

Page 51

Dara Ó Conghaile

Page 53

Inside the house of Mr & Mrs Micil Chóil Ó Flaithearta and Máire Pheaidí Uí Fhlaithearta. 16mm frame from Inishmaan Another Day, 1973

Page 57

Teacher Seosamh Luibhéad

Page 75

Winter stay and St Brigid’s Eve

Page 80

One of the mothers, Colette Mac an tSaoir, completes running repairs on one of the Brídeog

Page 81

The girls recite a little rhyme about the saint and dance at the house of Máirtín Joe Ó Fátharta

Page 91

There is also a tradition that February 1st being first day of the Celtic Spring everybody picked and ate shellfish, usually periwinkles on the island, heralding the start of the fishing season. Eggs were also eaten. In recent years shellfish and eggs have been presented at mass in the church on St Brigid’s day

Page 101 Máirín Thomáis Uí Dhomhnaill, 2009 Page 106 The Parish Priest – Fr Máirtín Ó Conaire, rehearsing the children’s First Holy Communion and taking their first confession Page 117 Máirtín Conneely & Máirtín Faherty Page 119 Rùairí Ò Coincheanainn. Fisherman, currach maker, 2009 Page 121 Tarlach de Blácam. Founder, Inis Meáin Knitting Company Page 125 Pàraic Ò Coincheanainn, collecting seaweed to put on his fields Page 129 Peadar Mór Ó Conghaile Page 134 Honda Cowboys. A page from the Inis Meáin census 1821 Page 139 Peadarín Ò Meachair and Pàraic Ò Coincheanainn, both farmers Page 147 7.30am 14th May 2019. Cows going off the island Page 161 Waiting for the evening ferry Page 163 St Johns Eve. From the fort Dún Chonchúir Page 165 Juda Lynch at the fort Dún Chonchúir. Juda is an Inis Meáin native, she embraces the history, culture and folklore of the island

For Jasmine

I would like to thank:The islanders of Inis Meáin for their help and co-operation, Áine & Tarlach de Blácam, Nalva UíFhatharta & Micheál Ó Cuaig

October 2023 Images © Chris Rodmell 2023 Edited by Josie Atkinson, Jotte Studio Design and Layout by Jessamine Thoemmes-Tondowski, Jotte Studio Photography restoration by Beytan Erkmen Printed at Narayana Press, Denmark

ISBN 978-1-805170-75-4 jotte.studio