ROUTE - February / March 2020

ROUTE THE MAGAZINE THAT CELEBRATES ROAD TRAVEL, VINTAGE AMERICANA AND ROUTE 66

February/March 2020

THIS YEAR’S TOP PLACES TO STAY ON 66

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The Dirty

30s

NATIVE AMERICAN ICON WES STUDI DOROTHEA LANGE’S HISTORIC PICTURES ROUTE Magazine i

EXPERIENCE THE UNEXPECTED IN

OKLAHOMA CITY

RIVERSPORT ADVENTURES | PLAZA DISTRICT | OKC ZOO

Escape your daily routine. Experience unexpected adventures of all kinds in Oklahoma City, like the thrill of an 80-foot free fall, zipping 700 feet across the Oklahoma River, a day at the renowned OKC Zoo or an evening exploring street art in one of Oklahoma City’s signature districts.

READY TO SEE MORE?

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WELCOME TO

Springfield, Missouri As the Birthplace of Route 66, Springfield is the perfect place to celebrate the legacy of the Mother Road. Learn how it all began at the newly-opened History Museum on the Square, see classic cars at the Route 66 Car Museum and enjoy a burger and shake at one of our vintage American diners.

SpringfieldMo.org/Route66 ROUTE Magazine 1

Circle Cinema — Tulsa

Visit the area’s only nonprofit cinema — and Tulsa’s oldest standing movie theatre, built in 1928.

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Will Rogers Memorial Museum — Claremore This Claremore museum is home to the world’s largest collection of Will Rogers memorabilia.

Oklahoma History Center — Oklahoma City

This museum chronicles Oklahoma’s riveting history — from the Land Run to the Dust Bowl to the present.

Coleman Theatre — Miami Located along Route 66, this 1929 vaudeville theatre’s unique architecture and novelties are worth exploring, ranging from cherubs to gargoyles.

Discover more monumental movie houses and museums at Travel

Tower Theatre — Oklahoma City Originally a 1937 movie house, this revitalized theatre is a fantastic place to catch a concert or film.

.com.

Oklahoma Route 66 Museum — Clinton The state’s official Route 66 showcase, this museum introduces guests to all things Americana.

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CONTENTS

Modern-style picnic structure at White Sands National Monument, NM. Built in 1960.

16 The Dirty Years

By Mary Martin The 1930s were a decade of struggle throughout much of the US, but perhaps nowhere more than in the American Heartland, where drought and unimaginable dust storms and resulting sickness and famine devastated the land and the people. This is their story.

26 Making a Mark

By Nick Gerlich The town of Tucumcari, NM, has always held an aura for Route 66 enthusiasts, with its quirky spirit and oddball vibe, but one venue has a story that needs to be told that is not heard very often. David and Amanda Brenner of the Roadrunner Lodge have a tale that many of you may relate to and all of you will want to hear.

48 A Conversation with Wes Studi

By Brennen Matthews Undeniably talented and certainly recognizable, Oklahoman actor Wes Studi opens up about growing up in eastern Oklahoma, his views on cultural appropriation and his experiences on the most famous highway in America.

60 Route 66 Odyssey: Top Places to Stay Along the Mother Road

The historic highway has always been home to a wide and diverse variety of hotels and motels that beckon travelers off of the historic highway. In this annual hotlist, ROUTE makes our picks for the best places to rest your head when motoring down Route 66.

36 Holding on to Heritage

By Heide Brandes Get to know the story of one of Clinton, Oklahoma’s most colorful characters and the home that she built that is still welcoming visitors in search of a little Native American culture and history. Meet Patricia E. Henry and the Mohawk Lodge Indian Store.

42 The Last Stop: Vanishing Rest Stops

of the American Roadside

By Ryann Ford In this beautiful pictorial, Ford showcases a rare look at what remains from what once played an enormous role in our road travel experience.

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ON THE COVER A road trip down Highway 1 in a 1965 Ford Mustang.

Photograph courtesy of Cannon Photography LLC / Alamy Stock Photo.

Experience the good life in the slow lane along

Illinois Route 66

Get youINr Kicks

Dwight & Pontiac Museums, Murals and More in Dwight and Pontiac Illinois.

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mural Ambler’s Texaco Gas StationDwight, Illinois

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dwightillinois.org #dwightillinois 815.584.3077 ROUTE Magazine 7

EDITORIAL I cannot believe that ROUTE has entered its third year in print. It is amazing how much we have been able to share so far and how much fun we’ve had while doing so. Often people tell me that I have the best job in the world, and they are right.

Discovering and telling America’s amazing stories is a privilege that we have over here at ROUTE and one that we take very seriously.

Route 66 has always been home to a plethora of fascinating individuals whose lives deserve to be shared. Their journeys have taken many a unique turn and their impact – whether they are still with us or have passed – continues to be felt. The roadside attractions and quirky motels and businesses that make roadside America so special are still calling out to all of us, urging us to slow down and experience America for what it really has to offer. Many people are moving too fast in life to really recognize it, but America is a very exceptional country for many reasons, but most of all for its openness to new ideas and dreams – no matter how off the wall they may be. America has always stood for freedom; freedom to pursue bonafide ambitions or to chase flights of fancy. And for a large portion of us, the stranger that dream looks, the more we want to learn about it and the people behind it.

I personally want to take the time to acknowledge a few key people in the ROUTE family. We could do nothing without our incredibly talented photographers, David Schwartz and Efren Lopez, both of who are without a doubt, two of the most talented photographers on the Route 66 scene today. Our inspirational, dedicated editorial leads Kate Wambui, Nick Gerlich and layout and design guru Tom Heffron who work closely with me to ensure that each and every issue is packed with dynamic, well-crafted, intriguing stories that look great. ROUTE has been enormously blessed from day one with very gifted freelance writers and photographers. There are too many to mention but if you’ve written for ROUTE, you are very special to us.

This year, ROUTE has a lot of great stories planned and we are thrilled to bring you more true tales from the eight wonderful states that make up the Mother Road.

In this issue, we showcase our annual hotlist for our top places to stay when traveling down America’s Main Street. We have some new properties on the list this year so make sure you check out the Odyssey story and get out there this year and experience some of these wonderful venues for yourself.

We also take a deeper look into the Dust Bowl era and bring readers with us through what was one of the worst periods in modern American history. The photography will stun you. I am not sure if many of you know him yet, but Oklahoma’s Lt. Governor Matt Pinnell is someone who should be on your radar.

His proactive, passionate position surrounding tourism in the Sooner State and his belief that Route 66 is a key asset in the state’s tourism growth has caused the state government to ramp up its support for the old road and their support for the towns and cities that make up Oklahoma’s wonderful stretch of 66. In this issue, we spend some time with the Lt. Governor and learn more about him and his vision.

Heading West and into the sleepy town of Tucumcari, a place that once boasted of over 2000 hotel rooms, we visit with David and Amanda Brenner, owners of perhaps the most comfortable motel in town, the Roadrunner Lodge. Theirs is a captivating story that takes you into the journey of a Route 66-bitten couple as they uproot their lives in Texas to spend their days running a historic motel on the Mother Road.

These stories and so much more in this first issue of 2020! We are thrilled you are here with us.

Please remember to like and follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram and of course, why not subscribe today? Simply visit us on www.routemagazine.us.

God bless and see you next issue!

Brennen Matthews Editor

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ROUTE PUBLISHER Thin Tread Media EDITOR Brennen Matthews DEPUTY EDITOR Kate Wambui EDITOR-AT-LARGE Nick Gerlich LEAD EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHER David J. Schwartz LAYOUT AND DESIGN Tom Heffron EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Theresa Romano DIGITAL Matthew Alves ILLUSTRATOR Jennifer Mallon CONTRIBUTORS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS Arthur Rothenstein/LOC Christine Dulion Dorothea Lange/LOC Efren Lopez / Route66Images Hacienda Del Sol Heide Brandes Jen Boyer J. H Ward/LOC Mary P. Martin Laura Love Oakland Museum of California Russell Lee/LOC Ryann Ford Walt Barenfanger Editorial submissions should be sent to brennen@routemagazine.us To subscribe visit www.routemagazine.us.

Advertising inquiries should be sent to advertising@routemagazine. us or call 905 399 9912.

ROUTE is published six times per year by Thin Tread Media. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the written consent of the publisher. The views expressed by the contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or staff. ROUTE does not take any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photography.

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THE YEAR OF 1985

BACK TO THE FUTURE Mother Road enthusiasts often think of ��85 as the tragic year that marked the final decommission of legendary Route 66. But what else was happening that year?

This series takes a look at the cultural and social milieu from which Route 66 drove its last mile — the famous, the infamous, the inventions, and the pop culture that marked ��85 as a pivotal year. In this issue, we take you back to the release of a movie that not only took the Box Office by storm but is still entertaining audiences today!

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he year 1985 was a year that many memorable movies hit the silver screen, from The Breakfast Club and St. Elmo’s Fire to The Goonies and The Color Purple, ‘85 offered the world a wealth of entertainment to spend hours watching. But the most popular and highest-grossing film of the year was Back to the Future, which started a fun-filled franchise that took America by storm. Written and directed by Robert Zemeckis, the film follows the story of music-loving, skateboarding teen Marty McFly (Michael J. Fox), whose strange friendship with the mad scientist Doc (Christopher Lloyd) leads him traveling back to 1955, which sparks a frantic chase for Marty to get his teenage parents together and somehow make it back to the 80’s in one piece.

While the film may sound like a surefire success, it had a rocky start. The script of the first film was rejected around 40 times by every major film studio, causing the script to go through a few drafts before it was eventually accepted, being produced by Amblin Entertainment and distributed

by Universal Pictures. Getting the script finally greenlit was most likely made easier by Steven Spielberg, who got involved in the project as an executive producer. The film also received a bit of trouble with its title, as Sid Sheinberg, the former head of Universal Studios, didn’t think the title would draw in a crowd. So, he proposed an alternative: “Spaceman from Pluto.” Thankfully, this idea was scrapped and the classic Back to the Future title managed to make it to the Big Screen.

Despite its rocky beginnings, the film was a roaring success, raking in $210,609,762 at the domestic Box Office, while spurring the careers of Michael J. Fox, Lea Thompson and Crispin Glover. Part of the film’s longlasting popularity can be attributed to the dynamic, on-set 10 ROUTE Magazine

chemistry between the energetic Michael J. Fox and the wacky Christopher Lloyd, who made each interaction enjoyable and all the more memorable for moviegoers. The film also explores heavier topics than your average Sci-Fi comedy, such as rape and incest, which added a slightly darker underbelly to the light-hearted picture. The film also handles themes of standing up for oneself, as seen with Marty encouraging his dad (Crispin Glover), to stand up to the local bully Biff (Thomas F. Wilson), which results in Marty’s dad heeding his future son’s advice by giving Biff a satisfying slug to the face at the end of the movie. In doing so he forever changed his own future.

The film’s iconic soundtrack, which featured the smash hit by Huey Lewis and the News, The Power of Love, and dazzling special effects (for the time), only placed it over the edge, and the film would eventually be inducted into the National Film Registry by the Library of Congress in 2007, marking its place as a cult classic in America’s filmography.

Since its inception, Back to the Future has spawned two sequels, an animated series, multiple video games, and plenty of merchandise. Many fans have also wondered if a 4th sequel would ever hit the Big Screen, and while Zemeckis is an adamant opposer of another Back to the Future movie, the current trend of rebooting old classics and creating sequels doesn’t entirely erase the possibility.

Despite the rumors of a 4th sequel, what is certain is that a brand-new musical of the film is scheduled to have its first performance on February 20, 2020, with renowned composer Alan Silvestri returning to create the music and lyrics with Glen Ballard. The original writers of the film, Robert Zemeckis and Bob Gale, will also be returning to write the play, leaving the musical in trusted hands for its 2020 debut.

In 1889 a shot rang out.

A land run started.

And El Reno, Oklahoma would become the front door to the American West.

Photo courtesy of Canadian County Museum.

Historic El Reno, Oklahoma, where the glamour of Route 66 meets the Old West drama of the Chisholm Trail. Where the world’s largest fried onion hamburger is celebrated, and where you can ride a rail-based trolley through historic downtown. Nearby Fort Reno is home to the colorful U.S. Cavalry Museum, as well as the graves of Buffalo Soldiers, Indian scouts and World War II prisoners of war. For information, visit www.elrenotourism.com.

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A Fire-Breathing Attraction

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nown as the Land of Lincoln since the state adopted the slogan in 1955, Illinois has been drawing visitors to its picturesque towns and cities for decades, each of them hungry to stand where the iconic President once trod. But what many wouldbe tourists may not know is that Lincoln actually started his political career in a tiny town with a pretty name called Vandalia. Having served as the second capital of Illinois from 1820 to 1839, Vandalia housed Lincoln during his time as a freshman legislator until Springfield became the state capital. Though the town of Vandalia continues to honor its history with Lincoln today, it is certainly not the only reason that people pass through town. “When you ask your kid if they want to see a fire-breathing dragon or the [second Illinois capital], the dragon wins,” notes Walt Barenfanger, owner of the Kaskaskia Supply & Rental shop, and of a peculiar dragon statue in Vandalia.

Sitting on the corner of Hwy 40/Veterans Ave. and Rock Island Ave. is an unusual metal dragon statue named the Kaskaskia Dragon, made even more unique due to its ability to breathe fire. Buy a $1 token from Barenfanger’s shop or the Lo Mac’s Liquor store across the street from the statue and watch the Kaskaskia Dragon breath fire from its snout for ten seconds.

Want to see it again? Then drop in another token, or two, or three, and be sure to have that camera ready to go for the perfect photo.

The Kaskaskia Dragon was built in Walt and Paula Barenfanger’s shop during the winter of 1995, when one of their former employees, Paul Schaub, had an idea; “He asked if he could build a dragon.

I said, ‘I have no idea what you are talking about but have at it,’ ” said Walt Barenfanger. Using scrap metal from around the shop, the 30ft tall beast was born, weighing over four tons, and although breathing fire wasn’t in the original blueprints for the metal reptile, local resident Rick Eyeman of Hicksgas Propane Sales & Service, had a plan.

Rigging the statue so that it could belch terrifying flames, using propane as its fuel, Eyeman made the dragon a bonafide, must-see attraction.

Since then, visitors have continued to stop by, tossing in tokens to make the dragon’s eyes glow red and its snout 12 ROUTE Magazine

breathe fire. “Over 20,000 visitors have made the dragon breathe fire,” said Barenfanger. “It now has over 800 [visitors] a month during the summer.” Past guests include former Illinois Governor Bruce Rauner and horror literary giant Stephen King, who mentioned the Kaskaskia Dragon in his novella, “In the Tall Grass,” that he co-wrote with his son, Joe Hill. With this much traffic, the Kaskaskia Dragon has become a real icon for Vandalia, with a “Sir-Fix-A-Lot” knight statue in front of it only adding to its medieval, kitschy charm.

But the dragon has another unexpected characteristic.

Even with its tall, giraffe-like neck and 40ft long body, it is still able to travel and has made a delightful appearance at quite a few events, like the Vandalia Halloween Parade.

This “movability” has to do with its design. “[The dragon’s] neck has a hydraulic cylinder in it which allows it to bend [under] power lines as it travels,” explained Barenfanger. However, while the hydraulic cylinder makes it easier to move the giant metal beast, it eventually became too much work, resulting in the Kaskaskia Dragon’s retirement from making any special appearances.

“We’ve stopped doing it. It’s a lot of work and a little bit dangerous because you don’t want to miss dipping its head for a powerline.”

While the Kaskaskia Dragon won’t be appearing at any more parades, there might be some little dragons coming in the future that will be able to move around a little more easily. “It might have kids or something, we thought about making some that are much smaller and put [them] beside it,” said Barenfanger.

“Four or five little dragons to take to parades, but I think the mother dragon is gonna have to stay where it is.”

America is packed with quirky, unexpected Americana, the type of attractions and memorable experiences that have been drawing people to the road for decades. As motorists plan their 2020 trips, many will eagerly plan to head West, chasing the eternal sun, but don’t forget to spend some extra time in Illinois, because on and off of Route 66, attractions like the Kaskaskia Dragon are waiting patiently for you.

Photograph courtesy of Walt Barenfanger.

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Spring 2020

Classic cars on the original Route 66 in Springfield

Discover Springfield, Illinois – one of the most iconic stops on historic Route 66. Now, you can experience the road coming alive when you travel through Springfield with your “Living Legends” passport, part of a new program launching Spring 2020. Plan a visit and meet some of our very own “Living Legends” who were born and bred on this iconic highway.

#VisitSpringfield

WE’RE

THAN ONE DAY

Plan your journey at www.visitspringfieldillinois.com ROUTE Magazine 13

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he startling and from the public. Despite this provoking image of setback, Lange didn’t stop her “Migrant Mother” is work, but continued to travel, a familiar photograph take photographs, and coto many in America, as it found “Aperture” Magazine, in many ways effectively eventually passing away in encapsulates the plight of 1965 from esophageal cancer. migrant farmers during the Lange’s solid work ethic Great Depression and the Dust and nonstop attitude led her Bowl. The black and white to create an impressive body photograph depicts a desperate of images, a portion of which migrant mother and her is currently traveling in an children and was taken in 1936 exhibition titled, “Dorothea by the famous documentary Lange: Politics of Seeing.” photographer Dorothea Lange, Curated by Drew Johnson who used photography as a at the Oakland Museum of means to shed light on social California, the exhibition will issues and call people to action. be displayed at the National Dorothea Lange in Texas on the Plains. 1935.

Lange is known for her moving, Cowboy & Western Heritage socially conscious images, Museum on February 14, 2020. which have greatly influenced the world of documentary It will feature her famous photograph, “Migrant Mother,” photography as we know it today. “She didn’t start out in among other noteworthy pieces that she captured in the documentary photography, she was a portrait photographer,” States, particularly those of the Great Depression’s migrant notes Kimberly Roblin, Director of the Dickinson Research workers and the Japanese Americans that were incarcerated Center and Curator of Archives at the National Cowboy & in internment camps during WWII. Western Heritage Museum. “It was during the Depression Quotes from the subjects she photographed will also be that she started looking around. She really saw the people available to provide a more holistic picture of the lives that standing in the bread lines that were on strike. She said Lange captured on camera. “They shed light on the individuals it woke her up, that the Depression woke her up, and she in the images and provide greater context for the photographs. shifted her focus onto a completely different career [than] she They also shed light on Lange as a photographer. She talked had before. Instead of studios, she was going out to migrant with these people. Context was critical to her. They clearly felt camps and fields. Instead of making portraits for the wealthy, comfortable enough to speak with her and that’s a testament to she was making portraits of the working class.” her approach and ability to establish a rapport,” Born in 1895 in Hoboken, New Jersey, Lange notes Roblin, who will be coordinating the was originally on track in college to become installation of the exhibition at the NCWHM. a teacher but decided to ditch her academic Including details was important for Lange, pursuits to study photography. Taking a as she was more concerned with humanizing somewhat unorthodox approach to her studies, her subjects and sparking action with her work Lange immediately took up apprenticeships than seeing the photographs she was creating with a few of the top photographers of her time, as a form of art. “She really dedicated herself such as the pictorialist photographer Arnold to using her photography to prompt discussion.

Genthe. She went on to create her own portrait studio in She talked about photography being a conversation, not just San Francisco, but her career took a dramatic turn when between herself and the subject, but between the viewer and the Great Depression hit in the 1930s. It was then that she the photograph,” said Roblin. “The photograph should ask began to take note of the plight of migrant workers and more questions and spark discussion than they should give started to document their lives through pictures. She was answers. She describes photography as a language, if you eventually scouted by the Farm Security Administration, had one image, that was one word, and if you had multiple who commissioned her to photograph the migrants and bring images, you had a phrase.” attention to the issue, which led to one of her most famous If the body of Lange’s work were deciphered as words and photographs, “Migrant Mother.” Having been the first phrases, then it would create a heart-wrenching and moving woman to receive a Guggenheim Fellowship in 1940, Lange story of America’s plight during the early 20th Century, went on to document the internment of Japanese Americans one that called for change and one that should not be easily during WWII with her camera, which were initially censored overlooked.

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Photograph courtesy of the Collection of the Oakland Museum of California. © The Dorothea Lange Collection, the Oakland Museum of California. Gift of Paul S. Taylor.

The Dirty Thirties and the Work of Dorothea Lange

ROUTE Magazine 15

THE DIRT

By Mary P. Martin

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Y YEARS

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housands of people eager for a fresh start, hungry for a purpose, and yearning for success, headed to the land we now know as the Great Plains. Barren except for seemingly endless acres of native prairie grass, short buffalo grass that held the soil in place and fed close to 30 million animals before Anglo settlement began, this was No Man’s Land.

The land was ripe with potential: to grow wheat, corn, and other row crops, to feed livestock, to start a new life.

The land called them, and they answered. They came by horse, mule, carriage, and train. Their eyes saw the beauty of its vastness; their hearts filled with joy at the prospect of owning and working their own land, raising a family, making a living by farming or as business owners in town, and making a difference. These were hardworking, proud, and persistent people.

These are their Stories The Homestead Act of 1862, which provided settlers with 160 acres of land, was followed by the Enlarged Homestead Act of 1909, which provided 320 acres. These acts led to a massive influx of farm families across the Great Plains, from as far away as Russia, Germany, and Central Asia, all seeking land and a better life.

As people migrated to Kansas, Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, and eastern Colorado, towns and businesses emerged where buffalo had once roamed. Bison herds that

Previous spread: Heavy black clouds of dust rising over the Texas Panhandle, Texas. Arthur Rothenstein/LOC.

had covered thousands of square miles were eliminated within a few years time, replaced by domestic cattle.

By 1910, farmers were now migrating to the Plains from the Midwestern states. Historian Dr. Byron Pearson explains: “American soldiers returning from World War I were preyed upon by boosters and developers who encouraged them to move West and put new land into production, promising that the farms would be so productive that they would pay for themselves in as little as a year or two.”

People traveled from across the country to this promised land. Historian Dr. Brian Ingrassia describes that “many traveled by rail, and were picked up by land agents in larger cities such as Amarillo, Texas, and driven out to the fields.

Because they were unaccustomed to traveling by car, the farm families quickly lost perspective on the distance they had traveled. What was only a 20-minute ride by car would place them quite a distance from the city. They did not realize how much they would need automobile transportation once they settled on farmland so far from the city.”

The native buffalo grass, with its deep root system, was soon replaced by wheat, which was both productive and lucrative in the early years.

“What really spawned the planting of wheat was World War I. Government propaganda proclaimed that ‘Wheat Will Win the War,’ and hundreds of thousands of acres of new farmland were cultivated. Wheat prices skyrocketed because European and Russian wheat producing regions were temporarily taken out of the global market by the war and revolution that followed,” said Pearson.

What changed everything for dryland farmers was the tractor, which did the work of ten horses. The one-way plow would later be cursed as the tool that destroyed the Plains because of its efficiency in ripping up grass, roots and all. But for now, it was a technological miracle.

Front porch of a tenant farmer’s house near Warner, OK. 1939. Russell Lee/LOC. 18 ROUTE Magazine

Things Get Unpredictable Rail lines had arrived. Churches, hotels, and other businesses grew into towns. Bank loans became commonplace as the desire increased to plow even more land. More wheat undoubtedly meant more income to pay back loans.

Harvest income was secured at banks. Farmers became real consumers as they built new homes, purchased furniture, appliances, new cars, bigger and better agricultural machinery and tools, ready-made clothing, shoes, and private lessons for their children.

Optimism was contagious, at least for a while.

As the United States entered the Depression in 1929, wheat prices plummeted. And then it stopped raining, beginning a drought that would last for a decade. Temperatures soared, exceeding 100 degrees daily, for weeks at a time. Suddenly, farms were going under, livestock and families were starving, and enormous clouds of dried out topsoil were blown up into the air. The earth itself was seemingly turning against the farmers.

Decades of poor farming techniques had removed the native ground cover, with its deep root system that held the topsoil in place. Lack of ground cover and failure to practice crop rotation, along with sustained periods of intense heat, high winds, and nothing to break the vicious wind, left the land exposed to the forces of erosion. People had simply, to put it plainly, been too greedy and the land gave all it could.

A nine-year drought began in 1930, leaving crops withered and dead. Farmers had killed the coyote population, allowing jackrabbit numbers to cycle out of control; winds blew in plaques of grasshoppers. What remained of the scant wheat fields and farmers’ gardens was quickly destroyed by both.

Then came the dust storms.

Billowing clouds of dust began darkening the sky, sometimes for days at a time. The dust drifted like snow; residents had to clear it with shovels. Women soaked bed sheets and plastered them to the windows to try and absorb the fine dust. Nothing worked. Dust worked its way in through the cracks of even well-sealed homes, leaving a constant fine coating on food, skin, furniture: everything in its path.

Dust storms came with some regularity, so people tended to get used to them —although they couldn’t get used to their fury.

L. Anne Berry of Texhoma, Oklahoma, recalls the frustration of the unending dirt storms: “The pantry ceiling fell in from dirt. We had farm hands coming in for dinner and biscuits in the oven. We took a shovel to get the dirt out of the eating area, and a whisk broom to clean off the top of the stove.”

With the constant storms blowing through, dust and dirt was everywhere, a reminder of nature’s unpredictability.

“On a still day after these dirt storms had been blowing, you could ride through the sagebrush and look back, and there would be dust following you and your horse that would be ten feet high. Everything would be covered in dust. When you’d get up, it’d show the print of your head where you laid in bed. When you’d eat your meal, there was dust around the outside of your plate,” said Marvin Carnagey of Oklahoma.

Weather-worn farmers, weary from anxiety and frustration and exhausted from the ever-present dust storms that destroyed their crops and their livelihood, knew that the situation was also destroying their lives. Banks had begun to take their meager cash savings, their farms, livestock, and tractors. Dust

Children of a tenant farmer. McIntosh County, OK. 1939.

Russell Lee/LOC.

had consumed their lives for close to a decade, pecking at their very core. Even the strongest-willed farmers felt their resolve dissipate with the sustained winds, storms, drought, intense heat, and loss. Many eventually gave up and packed their old vehicles with mattresses, pots & pans, and food staples, leaving everything else behind. There was nothing left but the family unit (if they were lucky), and that was enough for now.

Author Timothy Egan, in The Worst Hard Time, describes how these struggles impacted lives: “Never before had so many people been without purpose, direction, or money ... People were struggling to stay alive, to find enough money to buy shoes, fuel, goods that could not be made by hand at home.”

Berry recalls that nearly everyone struggled: “When I was growing up, every family was short of money. There were a few people, like there always is, that had a little more than anyone else, but nobody knew they were poor.”

In 1934, President Franklin D. Roosevelt asked Congress to appropriate $52.5 million to battle economic and social disaster. Drastic measures were implemented to aid the nation’s more than 13 million unemployed workers.

Roosevelt’s New Deal policies provided cash, livestock feed and equipment to farmers and businesses directly affected by the drought.

Carnagey spoke of the success of contour farming, which was introduced as part of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal: “The government made loans to farmers, and people began to be able to get a little money and buy land. It started raining to where they could raise some crops. They did contour farming. There was what they called puddling that was a long pipe with arms on it, with kind of a paddle here and there and you’d pull that across the field; that would make holes in the ground to hold water when it rained, instead of running off. It all helped a little. The government did a pretty good job of helping us get things to come back.”

With the constant dust, the effects were more impacting than just dirty clothes and homes; many people developed dust pneumonia and experienced chest pain and difficulty breathing. Babies and the elderly were the most susceptible.

While exact numbers are unknown, it is estimated that hundreds to several thousand people of all ages perished due to dust pneumonia and related ailments; their lungs and stomachs were literally choked with dirt. Thousands of cattle, horses, pigs and chickens all perished from the incessant dust.

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Huge dust storm. 1935. J. H Ward/LOC.

“What sticks in my mind is the dust pneumonia that people would die from and were sick with it and the number of kids that died. I know there were several children who died of diphtheria, and many more who suffered and died of dust in their lungs. It was heartbreaking. Livestock, too, was lost to dust … their bodies just filled up with dust and they perished,” said Berry.

With the loss of land, livestock, crops, and their people, farm families thought that it couldn’t get any worse.

But it did.

The Apocalypse The worst dust storm, labeled by Associated Press as Black Sunday, occurred on April 14, 1935. Temperatures fell 30 degrees without warning and the wind whipped into a frenzy, creating a dust cloud that grew to hundreds of miles wide and thousands of feet high as it headed south. As many

Destitute migrant family in pea picker’s camp, Nipomo, CA. 1936. Dorothea Lange/LOC. 20 ROUTE Magazine

as three million tons of topsoil are estimated to have blown off the Great Plains during Black Sunday. The storm went on for hours, forcing drivers off the roads, and causing people to think this was the end of the world.

Hazel Allen, of Beaver County, Oklahoma, recalls the terror of Black Sunday: “There was the one storm that they called the black storm. My husband, his dog and his brother had gone hunting that morning on horseback. They got quite a long ways from home and that storm hit. You couldn’t see your hand in front of your face. They couldn’t find their way back, so they got off their horses and put a rope on the dog, who led them home. I was terrified that I’d never see him again.”

Lonetta McQuigg lived 20 miles outside of Shattuck, Oklahoma, when Black Sunday hit: “My daughter and her cousin came running in and they told us about the storm coming. That cloud was coming in like a big black roll of smoke. The cattle and horses were running, jumping around scared, and the chickens started going to roost. As it grew darker, we ran to the cellar, not knowing what was behind that black cloud. We thought it was the end of the world.”

Everyone remembers where they were on Black Sunday.

But even that storm couldn’t persuade many farmers to leave their land.

“Why didn’t they all just pack up and leave? Farmers are stubborn, some of the most stubborn people there are. They stayed for multiple reasons: this was the middle of the Great Depression. There were no jobs. They didn’t really know what was out there, if there was anywhere else they could go to try to build a better life. They had their family, which was their support system,” said Historian Dr. Jean Stuntz.

Egan concurs: “They were bound, each in their way, to the High Plains, because it was home and because a new decade was dawning, and it had to be better than the last year of the old one, and because they knew this was the only roll of the dice left.”

“Certainly it was a traumatic experience to endure the loss of land, kin, livestock. Many had lived there 20-30 years and saw livestock die, [developed] respiratory problems, auto problems, illness and loss of life, having no choice but to leave their homes and livelihood, and having to become migrant laborers after having lost what they’d owned for all those years.

Approximately one-third of the total agricultural population of the Texas panhandle left during the Dust Bowl to seek a better life in California. When they were turned away, they kept moving to the next farm, and the next. Some settled in larger cities, assimilating into the urban poor population. Others drifted to cities to work in the shipbuilding industry during World War II,” said historian, Dr. Brian Ingrassia.

Historian Roxanne Dunbar-Ortiz recalls some childhood memories in rural Oklahoma during the Depression: “Farmers couldn’t feed their families anymore. The Depression and the drought, and they just had to get a job somewhere. My friend’s father traded the farm for a car and the whole family packed in with all their belongings, wanting to see Hollywood. So they drove straight through Highway 66 into Hollywood to check it out before they went to the labor camp to get jobs. They went to sign up for work out in the San Joaquin Valley and were in various labor camps.

They never were in Weedpatch Camp — the Weedpatch Camp, where the Red Dirt Rangers played for the Dustbowl Days. When the war came, everyone got jobs in defense plants and things got a little better.”

Roughly 2.5 million people left the Dust Bowl states during the 1930s. It was the largest migration in American history.

Oklahoma alone lost 440,000 people to migration. A third settled in California’s agriculturally rich San Joaquin Valley.

These refugees were generally referred to as Okies; they faced discrimination, menial labor, and pitiable wages. Many lived in shantytowns and tents along irrigation ditches. ‘Okie’ became a term of disdain used to refer to any poor Dust Bowl migrant, regardless of their state of origin. Pearson says of the stereotype: “What is interesting to me is how the stereotypes have persisted through time. The migrants are typically called ‘Okies’ even though people from Oklahoma made up only about 1/8 of the migrant population.”

Migrant worker on California highway. Dorothea Lange/LOC.

Once on the road, their troubles were far from over.

Ridicule, car problems, searing heat, near starvation, and rough terrain plagued them along their journey west.

They camped along the road, trading work for food, gas, water, car parts, and other supplies. As they traversed west, they encountered a mixed bag of camps: some without basic necessities, some organized, clean and safe, some run by wealthy landowners where the company store quickly ate up any money they made. As farm families pressed west, many felt the worst of the journey was over. But the blistering heat and rugged terrain of the Mojave Desert proved them wrong.

Migrants were viewed as disease-ridden intruders, ready to sponge off the government and take away local jobs. They were ostracized because of their plight; often, fights broke out and authorities had to intervene. They were unwelcome guests to this land. Competition for work was intense; locals felt threatened by the onslaught of ‘Okies’ in their territory.

As they were turned away from one farm, they moved on to the next, in the hopes of getting some work so they could feed their starving families.

Businesses, too, suffered losses during the migration years.

Torn between profits and helping people in need, many business owners chose to share a meal, a loaf of bread, a few gallons of gas or water to help the starving, travel-weary farm families as they pressed west.

Route 66 In The Grapes of Wrath, John Steinbeck wrote that “66 is the path of a people in flight, refugees from dust and shrinking land, from the thunder of tractors and shrinking ownership … they come into 66 from the tributary side roads, from the wagon tracks and the rutted country roads. 66 is the Mother Road, the road of flight.”

Route 66 was indeed the road of flight, yet it was also the road of opportunity for small businesses catering to the needs of the thousands of displaced families seeking a new and better life. The highway carried people and helped further the growth of independent businesses such as cafes, service stations, motels, tourist courts, truck stops and diners.

The late Lucille Hammons, who ran a service station and tourist court in Hydro, Oklahoma, described the migrants that canvassed Route 66 as “those people with mattresses on top of their cars,” and spoke of their integrity: “People were good …we didn’t have any problem with them not paying us. We did a lot of credit business in those days.

A lot of time they’d stop and work a while. They’d work for a dollar a day out on a farm, and everybody trusted everybody then. If a man said he’d pay you, he would, but maybe not right then. In the grocery businesses we sold to people who moved away, then they’d come in two or three years later and say, ‘You don’t remember us, but we owe you some money,’ and they’d pay up.”

In Glenrio, on the Texas-New Mexico state line, Homer Ehresman and his wife operated a café. “People came through here with no money. We had a lot of ‘em. We’d usually give them something to eat, and we had a few who’d come back and pay us. Occasionally.”

In Grants, New Mexico, Bud Gunderson recalled that a few of the hoboes who came through town “kind of liked the looks of Grants and stayed. People got to Grants with no money, no food, and carloads of children. Merchants would help them; it was everybody’s duty. If you had something, ROUTE Magazine 21

Oklahoma farm family on highway between Blythe and Indio. Picking cotton in Arizona gave them food and gas to continue.

1936. Dorothea Lange/LOC.

you helped. My dad probably gave away half a million dollars in loaves of bread and two-gallon donations of gas.”

Fred Nackard in Flagstaff, Arizona, recalled travelers along Route 66 during the great migration of the mid-to-late 30s: “They came by the thousands, the poor devils, with washtubs on top and stuff tied on the sides of their cars. In the thirties, I was in the automobile business, and they’d come here and be down and out. I bought some of their cars, then I’d fix ‘em up and sell them. A lot of people stayed here instead of going to California.”

In Kingman, Arizona, Glenn Johnson said, “When the Okies got here, the merchants had an agreement. They would give ‘em enough gas to get to California. What happened was that the merchants would fill the gas tanks to get the Okies to Needles, and then the station owners there did the same thing — gave them enough gas to get to Barstow. Same thing happened in Barstow, then they’d scatter. They were all good, hardworking people, not any bums among them. A few stayed here and worked in the mines and became leading citizens.”

It is Finally Over The Dust Bowl decade intensified the crushing economic impacts of the Great Depression and drove many farm families on a desperate migration in search of work, food and better living conditions. Many people felt the unrelenting dust storms were truly the end of the world; they lived with constant anxiety, fear, and uncertainty.

The drought and dust storms of the decade wreaked havoc on those living on the Great Plains. Crops were not sustainable, leaving those who relied on farming to look elsewhere for their income. The dust storms destroyed houses, crops, livestock, 22 ROUTE Magazine

people, even entire towns: close to 3.5 million people were displaced in the wake of the dust storms.

With the close of the 1930s, as the drought abated and normal rainfall levels returned, over $1 billion in federal aid had been appropriated for the Great Plains region. Out of Roosevelt’s drought-relief program grew soil conservation districts that remain in place today and have helped to prevent the emergence of drought conditions as devastating as the ones of the 1930s.

By 1939, many regions had lost over 75% of the topsoil to erosion. Areas hit hardest would never fully recover; land value decreased by nearly 30% in highly eroded counties.

Some families returned to the Great Plains areas that they had abandoned, but many stayed where they had found new opportunity.

With rainfall returning to the region, the hellish Dust Bowl decade had finally ended. Ten long years of devastating drought had come to a close, but things were not to be the same. People had changed. America had changed.

World War II was at the doorstep. And the future for tens of thousands had been dramatically altered. But as is the American way, people simply ‘got on with it’.

Today, some Route 66 businesses with roots in the Dust Bowl years still thrive. Richardson’s Trading Co. is still operating in Gallup, NM, as is the El Rancho Hotel.

Businesses opened in response to the needs of migrant families, then to wartime needs, and continued to adapt with the times. Cities and towns grew up and thrived along Route 66, many surviving as much as the families of the Dust Bowl did: through hard work, persistence, pride, thankfulness, and a good bit of hope.

This was in fact just another part of America’s complicated, colorful story.

Leave Your Mark in

Amarillo!

VisitAmarillo.com 800-692-1338 ROUTE Magazine 23

Hacienda Del Sol Z

T

he history and culture of the southwest can only be challenged by the natural beauty and warm hospitality of its people.

It is a region that holds lore and legacy that still pulls wanderers and searchers regularly. But one town that stands out perhaps more than most also happens to be one of the oldest inhabited cities of the U.S., Tucson, a destination that still carries the nickname Old Pueblo. In this region, Mexican and Indigenous heritage is mixed with the American Frontier, plus a touch of the Wild West. In the Catalina foothills, a particularly interesting piece of history can still be found, and it is still accepting visitors today.

The late 1800s popularized Tucson as a destination for travelers seeking to improve their health. This reputation further solidified when author Harold Bell Wright stayed through the winter of 1915 in an attempt to cure his tuberculosis with time in the Arizona outdoors. He was cured, and the story became a national sensation with the popular article “Why I Did Not Die,” about his experience and the health benefits of the climate. Soon, the foothills area was booming with new guest ranches and schools to accommodate the increase in tourism. In 1928, investor and developer John Murphey settled in the area and noticed the trend, deciding to build a girls’ school that would cater to this new market. Thus, Hacienda Del Sol was established with the help of his wife, business partner, and talented designer Helen Murphey.

The girls’ school attracted names of the upper echelon like the Kelloggs, Campbells, and Vanderbilts. With tuition that exceeded the average annual income at the time, Hacienda was an upscale institution with an elite enrollment – the Murpheys wanted to keep the roster to twenty-five or fewer girls. Hacienda advertised its concentration on outdoor activities, especially horseback riding. Each girl would have their own horse at the ranch. Its brochure called for “girls who like to don chaps, sombrero, and boots.” Hacienda embraced the culture and style of Tucson and gained a reputation for offering an “authentic” experience of the region. The Arizona Daily Star even published an article in 1933 about Hacienda entitled “Society Girls ‘Go Native’ at School.”

Despite a structure fire in the 1930s, Hacienda continued to develop under the direction of notable architect (and friend of the Murpheys) Josias Joesler. His signature style remains at Hacienda Del Sol today, noticeable in the oversized brick fireplaces, vast picture windows facing the northern mountains, and spacious, open communal areas. World War II 24 ROUTE Magazine

brought on hard times and the school closed its doors.

Two of the school’s students would go on to serve in the war themselves. Shirley Slade, who during her days as a pupil talked of being a jockey in the Kentucky Derby, ultimately went on to become one of the first pilots in the U.S. WASP (Women Airforce Service Pilots) program. Fellow alum Mary Jo Wymond went on to serve in the war with the American Red Cross assigned to the 486th Bomber Division.

The school never reopened after the war, and the Murpheys sold the property to another Tucson couple, Howard and Rita Morgan. The year 1945 brought a new beginning for Hacienda Del Sol when it was converted into a guest ranch.

Most of the original design elements contributed by the Murpheys and Joesler were maintained and the new Hacienda Del Sol quickly became an attractive destination for the elite of classical Hollywood. In 1946, the property was used as the set for the film Duel in the Sun, featuring Gregory Peck and Jennifer Jones. Stars like John Wayne, Clark Gable, and other Hollywood icons found respite at the ranch. Howard Hughes owned a film studio nearby and was a frequent guest. Spencer Tracy and Katherine Hepburn sparked their romance with secret getaways at a casita on the ranch which now bears their namesake, the Tracy-Hepburn Casita Grande.

This seemingly forgotten piece of early Hollywood nostalgia was revived yet again by a group of local investors who purchased the property in 1995. A thoughtful renovation in 1999 greatly increased the capacity of the boutique hotel, while ensuring that the historical qualities of Hacienda Del Sol were preserved, and new additions recreated this same southwestern authenticity. One of the hotel’s current owners, Tom Firth, explained that they, “just had a vision for something grander. But we've really tried to honor and maintain the architecture over all these years.”

Today, Hacienda’s Spanish-Colonial style transcends time with its adobe walls and arched doorways. Its spaces are adorned with furniture handmade in Mexico. Modern amenities have brought Hacienda Del Sol back to its luxury status, and the beauty of the Catalina foothills is as much of a draw now as in the ranch’s hey-day. Hacienda Del Sol is listed in the National Registry of Historic Places in Arizona as well as the Historic Hotels of America and Historic Hotels Worldwide for its cultural and historical importance. Off the beaten path, perhaps, but a must-see inclusion to any trip exploring the heart of Americana along Route 66.

Photograph courtesy of Hacienda Del Sol.

History in the Foothills of Tucson

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Making

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a Mark

By Nick Gerlich Images courtesy of Efren Lopez/Route66Images

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T

he romance of the Mother Road is an irresistible force that beckons tourists to come not once, but many times for just another kiss of nostalgia. It is an inspiration that causes authors to wax poetic about that old 66, lining bookshelves with one more book on top of more than 150 to date. And it is a clarion call that causes people to trade in their former lives and wistfully hang their shingle on the side of that storied road, providing one or more of the four pillars of travel: gas, food, lodging, and souvenirs.

Tucumcari Tonight There is perhaps a no more renown Route 66 town than Tucumcari, if not just for its alliteratively beautiful advertising tag line from a few decades ago. At its peak, Tucumcari had more than two dozen motels along Gaynell

Inside of motel lobby.

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(now Tucumcari Boulevard), and 2000 rooms. It was a neon sign hunter’s paradise before its time as motels, restaurants, and shops competed for a second or two of retina time. Even today, with many of those old motels now gone, and fewer than two dozen vintage signs remaining, it is still one of the most desired stopovers along America’s Main Street.

With 5000 residents and holding, Tucumcari has certainly seen better days. Signs have been hauled off by collectors, with fading motels bulldozed to open way for shiny new chain retail shops. Yet, for eight months out of the year, the prime Route 66 tourism season between March and October, Tucumcari still bustles with visitors, many of whom are there only to experience what has become a time capsule of history.

The rest of the year, the dreaded “shoulder season,” consists of a few intrepid Mother Road fans, but mostly folks for whom Tucumcari means little more than a motel and meal.

It is in this tableau that David and Amanda Brenner found themselves five years ago, not just a step down from their big city origins, but rather a full-on face plant.

Period Piece The Brenners were quick to realize that they needed a hook to set themselves apart from others in the hospitality business. They focused on the 60s, the era in which the original Leatherwood Manor found itself. As such, they are selling a memorable experience much more than a bed and shower.

“We moved to Tucumcari in April 2014. This place was derelict when we got here. We had to add power, plumbing, and a roof. We were able to open our first room at the end of July,” David explained. “We now have 20 rooms available for guests to stay in, and three of those are our ‘Snazzy 60s rooms. Those are the ones we’ve gone overboard a bit with the 60s experience.” When they purchased the property, it had been closed for approximately five years.

The Roadrunner is actually a mash-up of two previous motels, La Plaza Court, which was built in 1947, and Leatherwood Manor, built 1964. “In 1964, Agnes Leatherwood built her building on the site of a former gas station and the vacant land to the north side with 31 units.

There was an Esso station here.”

But Agnes may not have been a very good neighbor to La Plaza, David suggested. “She put a two-story building down in front of La Plaza Court, blocking an 8-foot tall neon sign. It would have been quite visible until this building showed up.

Agnes Leatherwood’s building blocked it almost completely.

[But] stories abound from the locals who tell us they used to swim in the pool as kids here in Tucumcari. Mrs. Leatherwood had a reputation for holding some fun parties for her local friends.”

Because the motels were snuggly located on the same square block, merging them was an easy construction project.

In 1985, the buildings were connected by extending the roof line up and over, making the lobby space the way it is today. It was branded as a Comfort Inn. The former lobby of La Plaza was converted into two guest suites, giving a total capacity today of 45 rooms.

“No architect would ever have designed something the way this property is today!” David joked.

The motel “…continued in operation under several different names, from America’s Best Value to Friendship Inn. When we arrived, the property was branded the Royal Inn, but we

believe it was only open for about five months under that name,” David indicated.

Unfortunately, information about La Plaza is scant, and neither David or Amanda know if it remained open between 1964 and 1985. “When we looked through old phone books, we did not see it past 1964 when Leatherwood Manor showed up,” he continued.

The Brenners emphasize that customer experience is critical to the motel’s success. It is completely by design then that this experience begins as soon as guests open the door to their room and are greeted by 60s tunes flowing from the radio.

David has created his own short-range FM station that loops upbeat songs and advertisements from that magical decade.

Moon Pies are on the table, and vintage magazines wait to be read as if Lyndon B. Johnson were still President. Vibrating beds are even available in some rooms. Just bring a quarter.

Amanda’s expertise is in cementing that experience with period-specific furnishings. The relative minimalism of the 60s is quickly realized in comparison to modern hotels with their large desks, entertainment centers, and stuffed chairs. “Many of the furnishings are from vintage shops,” Amanda said. “I went to Dallas with a U-Haul and bought a load of Gunlocke chairs from a dealer down there, and of course Craigslist. The front desk in the lobby was found on Craigslist in Dallas. It is a former jewelry case that we got from a Rastafarian shop in an obscure mini-mall.

As for the 60s accouterments in each room, the best part is that many were in fact crowdsourced, and without any effort.

“Believe it or not, many items were given to us by guests who enjoyed their stay and went home and sent stuff from their childhood,” Amanda explained.

“One guest sent us disks for the ViewMasters, and another guest sent us a whole boxed ViewMaster set. Someone who collects TV lamps left a box of lamps at our door the next time he came through town,” she continued.

Bright Lights, Smaller City Leaving the big city, changing careers, and moving to eastern New Mexico would be a tall order for most, but the Brenners handled it with aplomb. “This is something that Amanda had wanted for quite some time,” said David. “She has a nostalgia for the 50s and 60s and has always been enamored with Route 66. She took several trips along it while I was still working my corporate job. If I had a convention to go to in Las Vegas, Nevada, she would start a few days early. I would fly, and she would drive, staying in her favorite places along 66. We were in Dallas at the time when Amanda said this is what she wanted. She wanted a business on 66. At first, she said she wanted a restaurant, but after we met some restaurant owners, we decided we wanted nothing [to do] with that! We settled on the hospitality industry specific to lodging,” David recounted. To aid in preparation, the couple enrolled in hospitality courses at Collin College in Dallas.

Amanda then found that the 66 Motel in Holbrook, Arizona, was for sale, and the couple started taking a long look at it. “We made three trips up there,” David said.

“On each trip we would stop in Tucumcari because it was halfway. We spent some time with [Kevin and Nancy] Mueller at the Blue Swallow Motel. Amanda spent a couple of weeks working with Nancy on their property and learning a bit about the day-to-day operations.” In the process, she learned how to apply what she had learned in class.

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world. If I can’t travel to them, they are now traveling to me.

I love getting these microcosm exposures to culture.”

Creating the 66 Experience

Amanda and David Brenner.

The property in Holbrook fell through, though, and they set their sights elsewhere. “We continued watching the market. Amanda found this place online, and it was far less than the 66 Motel. Of course, it wasn’t operating. That helped from a price perspective, but it needed a ton of work,” David said.

They made three visits to Tucumcari to inspect the property. Amid signs that transients had taken up residence, they found that all of the lobby windows were broken, and the locks in all of the doors were obsolete. There was much to do. “We gutted the rooms. We had the pool removed.

Then we made the yard area,” he said. In actual fact, they created what may be the most comfortable, pleasant motel experience in Tucumcari.

Today, the couple still maintain professional careers, along with managing the motel. Amanda is pursuing a real estate career in Albuquerque and returns to Tucumcari regularly.

As for David, he assumed a slightly different position within his company once they left Dallas, working remotely. “I took a role change when we moved out here. I halted my career path in that industry to be able to open this motel with Amanda. I specialize in e-commerce. I’ve been doing it longer than some people have been alive, about 25 years,” he joked.

Moving from a metropolitan area of seven million (Amanda had previously lived in Houston and Los Angeles as well) to a city of about 5000 also presented other challenges. Shopping trips to Amarillo and Albuquerque are common, dining and entertainment options are limited, and one can never be invisible. David has served on various local boards since their arrival, helping establish his commitment to the city.

But do they miss Dallas? “There’s a lot of things I miss. I grew up in the city. It’s 1.5 hours to Amarillo and 2.5 hours to Albuquerque. It’s very different. I’ve adjusted to being here, but I want my ‘city time’ from time to time,” David said laughingly. “It was a big shift, but I love it though. I love the hospitality business. I love meeting people from all over the 30 ROUTE Magazine

David and Amanda both understand that they are providing a bucket list experience for many. “They come to Chicago, rent a muscle car or motorcycle, and they drive Route 66. That’s been a dream of theirs. I was always surprised when I heard this.

When I lived in Dallas, I had no idea what kind of following Route 66 has,” David said.

Roadrunner has now become a go-to motel for groups from Germany, Norway, France, and other countries.

But there are challenges in the hospitality business today compared to 50 years ago. The guest experience and how technology is changing all of that are important factors. “We are trying to find the right mix for our guests of a nostalgic, authentic 60s experience, and the technology and comfort requirements of today’s traveler,” David explained. Their vintage rooms are smaller, and they don’t have coffeemakers, refrigerators, and microwaves. “But we do have flat panel television, we have DirecTV, and we have the fastest internet you can get in Tucumcari.”

The Brenners are also proud of the fact that their property was one of six Tucumcari businesses listed in one of the Negro motorist guidebooks in 1957. That added element of historic notoriety gives them one more selling point to history-minded visitors.

Local Love “These vintage motels are very important to Tucumcari. The majority of our tourism is related to Route 66,” said Carmen Runyan, Executive Director of the Tucumcari Chamber of Commerce. “They are one of the big draws, and it’s not really Route 66 if you don’t have a vintage touch. We really need those vintage motels to add that touch. The Roadrunner provides a more recent version of Route 66.”

In only a few short years, the Brenners have catapulted into Tucumcari’s elite vintage motel status, and in so doing, have proven that sometimes more competition can actually expand the market. The critical mass of having three wellkept properties in a row (Roadrunner, Blue Swallow and Motel Safari) has made Tucumcari even more of a destination for motorists looking to experience the open road and a slice of Americana.

David and Amanda Brenner have hung a shingle that is gathering no moss, as they share their passion with friends and strangers passing through town. And “Tucumcari Tonight” is now much more than a billboard and a catchy slogan.

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a moment w ith

Lt. Governor Matt Pinnell

By Brennen Matthews Matt Pinnell serves as Lieutenant Governor of Oklahoma as well as the state’s first Secretary of Tourism and Branding. He has publicly expressed enormous support for the conservation and promotion of Route 66 as a fundamental part of Oklahoma’s tourism industry.

How did you get into politics?

Really, in college. I was a public relations advertising major, which I do think is a unique background for a politician. In this kind of role, sales and marketing is what I’m passionate about. I really took that sales and marketing experience and brought it into politics, is the long and short of it. I started working on a couple of political campaigns in college, and just got it in the bloodstream, so to speak. I really enjoyed working on political campaigns and getting people elected.

One campaign and one political job just kind of led to another. I always expected to return to the private sector and go and work for a public relations advertising firm. But each political job led to another one and they gave me more and more experience, and more leadership ability. I can look back twenty years and here I am now as Lieutenant Governor.

Is the Lieutenant Governor role an appointee, or an elected role?

It’s elected. So, when I ran for Lieutenant Governor, usually, historically in Oklahoma, Lieutenant Governors, they run for Lieutenant Governor to then be Governor. But it’s really a blank slate kind of position in Oklahoma. It’s what you make it. You know, that’s what I tell people. The Lieutenant Governor position in Oklahoma is what you make it.

I made it all about tourism. I ran on that platform, and I won all seventy-seven counties in Oklahoma, which is very unique. But I think it’s because I was actually running to be Lieutenant Governor, I wanted to be in the position of Lieutenant Governor. To sell and market the state, and to really champion tourism. I think it’s a big reason I got Republicans and Democrats and Independents behind my candidacy because I ran on a platform that I think spoke to a lot of people in Oklahoma.

When you look at Route 66, in a state like Oklahoma, do both Republicans and Democrats alike understand the potential impact of the highway across the state?

I would say yes. I’ve had very bi-partisan support. I’m a bulldog on [using] more marketing dollars to promote it.

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[Often] one of the first things that gets cut [by states and cities] are the marketing dollars, the marketing budget.

Which is always counterproductive because that’s the one area that actually makes a city or state money. I’m communicating that to our legislators, that listen, if you give me a larger promotional budget, we’re going to get all of that money back and then some. For every dollar I spend on advertising in Oklahoma, I get about seven dollars back.

So, we know that marketing in the state of Oklahoma works, we’re very authentic. We have that authentic “American” experience that international tourists and tourists around America are looking for. But it is one of the things that I’m fighting for right now: a more aggressive promotional marketing fund inside the department of tourism to further market Route 66.

It is important that we play to our strengths. Any state that is successful plays to their strengths. I remind legislators and voters in Oklahoma. Let’s not try to be something that we’re not. I don’t want to be Maine. I want to be Oklahoma.

No state can match our heritage and our history, we believe.

We have more drivable miles of the most famous road in the entire world. We make this harder than it has to be. Let’s just play to that strength, let’s play to that Native American history as well, and some of that’s right off Route 66 too.

That’s really what I’m preaching around the state but included with that is a very focused and detailed marketing plan to get more people off roads and bridges in Oklahoma [and] in our communities dropping critical sales tax dollars along the way.

Have you driven all of Route 66 in Oklahoma, and have you done any of Route 66 outside of the state?

In Oklahoma, for sure, yes, I would say a number of times I’ve done really the entire route. From Miami to Erick.

Around the country, I have not done the entire route, I’ve spent some time in Albuquerque, I’m very interested in what they’ve done in Albuquerque with some of their boutique hotels. The renovation efforts with some of their…. I’m encouraging private donors in Oklahoma right now, that’s one of the many parts of this campaign for me, is really getting to the private sector and engaging them and getting them interested in investing in some of these properties

along Route 66. And that includes some of the boutique hotels. Albuquerque has done a really good job of this.

I have future trips planned though: a few to Arizona, then, not to change course here, but getting much more aggressive with international markets, I’ll be in Taiwan, and I’ll be in the Czech Republic for the International Route 66 Convention. We’re planning a trip to Japan, which is the number two international market for tourists in America. So, we’re gonna start getting much more aggressive and being proactive with those countries, in talking about Route 66.

They’re already fascinated by [Route 66].

Do you support private buyers coming and saving Route 66-located signs for their own private collection, or do you think that Oklahoma should actually protect, and even preserve the old signs and buildings along the route that are no longer open?

Great question. I’m definitely in the boat of protecting and preserving as much as we can along the route. In Tulsa, for them to fuel that, they’re offering a great program, a matching grant to these business owners.

I like that program, it’s been wildly successful in Tulsa, and there’s a number of projects in the works right now. We’re going townto-town and working with them. The main street program in Oklahoma, the chamber of commerce is making sure that they’re going to those private individuals and those companies, and the key, for me here, is communicating and talking to them about how powerful of a marketing tool it is for them. And getting them on-board. And we’ve done that with a few individuals. I’m personally involved in trying to save the Brookshire Motel in Tulsa.

I’m a preservationist, I want to preserve as many of those signs... I’m well aware that that means that towns also need to do their part. Tulsa came up with a creative idea, Ken Busby (Route 66 Alliance) is leading that effort in Tulsa, this matching grant program, so I’m working with the legislature to try and create a fund inside the department of commerce that could also help from a statewide level. Cities could apply for matching dollars to help the renovation effort.

We’re really just at the beginning stages of just dreaming about this, but Lincoln Boulevard that leads up to the state capital in OKC used to be lined with Route 66 signs, back in the day, in the glory years. Dr. Blackburn, the Historical Society and I, are formulating a plan right now to bring some of those signs back. So, that means some of the signs that may be in storage somewhere, that someone privately has, it may mean recreating some of those signs, which I’m in support of, as well. We’re doing two-fold. We’re working with cities and we’re working with private businesses, but I’m also looking to get some public dollars to create, maybe some sort of neon light district, or neon park near the state capital.

You have expressed support for preserving and protecting on Route 66 but is there much of an appetite with the government in Oklahoma to support new things coming onto the Road that are privately owned?

100% yes. One of the things that we’re able to leverage now is that we have created, and I know a lot of other Route 66 states have done this too, a centennial commission, with the centennial coming up. So, we passed legislation last session creating the centennial commission, and we have a number of [groups]: Oklahoma Historical Society, the main street program, Keep Oklahoma Beautiful, the Arts Council, you know, all the groups that you think would be on that. And then we have appointments to myself, Speaker of the House, the Governor, to that board as well. And that will be a way for us to again, raise money both in the public and private sectors. To build things. We’re not just talking about preservation in Oklahoma, we’re talking about building things. Because we know, if you build it, they will come.

Lt. Governor Pinnell and the state of Oklahoma have some big plans and a vision that will continue to attract visitors to the Sooner State for a long time to come.

ROUTE Magazine 35

HOLDING on 36 ROUTE Magazine

to HERITAGE

By Heide Brandes Images courtesy of Efren Lopez/Route66Images

T

ucked subtly into an unassuming little red house at 22702 Route 66 in Clinton, Oklahoma, the 1892 Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post can be easy to miss. Its faded hand painted sign calls quietly to passing motorists with the promise of Indian pottery, baskets and blankets, but inside, the tiny structure holds more treasures and far more stories than curious travelers can expect.

Intricately beaded cradleboards - some more than 100 years old - and colorful leather moccasins brush up against aging black and white historical photographs of Native Americans in full dress. Carved totems sit by handmade buckskin shirts, fringe leather pouches, ceremonial drums, woven baskets and Pendleton blankets of rainbow colors wait to be touched and admired. In Oklahoma’s oldest trading post, authenticity can be seen, smelled and felt like dusty memories and visceral glimpses into Oklahoma’s Indian Territory past.

In the back of the store, owner Patricia Henry sits quietly among a heap of antique and Victorian furniture. Patricia herself appears as though she is part of the store. Now 85, Henry and her late husband Charles (he passed during the writing of this story) took over the museum/trading post from her own mother 27 years ago, who bought it from the late N.B. (Napolean Bonaparte) Moore.

Though Indian trading posts are touted brightly along Route 66 throughout western Oklahoma and beyond, The Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post is arguably the oldest, longest running, and most authentic of them all. Henry continues to supply glass beads from the Czech Republic - prized among Native artisans - to tribal members throughout North America, and she still purchases handcreated items from them as well.

Outside of the Mohawk Lodge Indian Store.

38 ROUTE Magazine

“I don’t sell cheap [stuff] or junk from China,” she said.

“I sell quality items made from Indians. When they give you anything, honey, they give you the best they have, and they don’t make junk.”

A staple in Clinton, The Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post has been a part of Route 66’s history even before Route 66 existed.

Part of Oklahoma’s Past The Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post was opened in nearby Colony in 1892 by The Dutch Reformed Church of New York as a way for Native Americans to buy supplies and make income from their wares.

“They wanted to help the Indians make some money, so they sold beads and other craft items. The church took what the Indians made to the East Coast to sell,” said Henry.

In the late 1800s, Indian Territory was home to traders and tribes, but the demand for Native American crafts and artifacts was fierce from those who lived back east and in far-away Europe. As it does today, the trading post sold beads, leather, beading needles, fur and other items that Native Americans used, and The Mohawk Lodge has continued to buy beads from the same company for more than a century now.

“The counters and the back bar on both sides are all original from 1892,” said Henry, pointing to the only slightly faded glass counters holding boxes of pinhead-sized beads, turquoise jewelry and beading supplies. “The store started in Colony next to an Indian agency and a school. They closed in 1939.”

The store, which was named the Mohonk Lodge Indian Store after a lake in New York, moved to its present location in 1940, just on the outskirts of Clinton. Originally a railroad

crossing four miles south of Arapaho known as Washita Junction, Clinton was founded in 1903. The small community, which today boasts of about 10,000 residents, is surrounded by the wide plains and rolling hills of western Oklahoma, and its enviable position along Route 66 makes it a favorite stop for tourists.

A Living History “The Dutch Reformed Church bought it (the land the store is built on) from the Indians. It was Heap of Bird land,” Henry said. “They had two caretakers until 1950, and then N.B. Moore - he was Creek Indian - he bought it N.B. Moore was born in 1907 and was the son of a prominent judge, N.B. Moore (Sr.), a Creek member who moved to Indian Territory in the early 1800s. Growing up, Moore’s Patricia E. Henry showing a picture of her family. father worked on a farm and enlisted in the Confederate Army during the Civil War. After the war ended, he moved to Clinton and became Supreme Judge of the Creek Nation. In 1889, Judge Moore was until they decided to open an antiques store in Clinton, in selected to represent Creek interests as a delegate to serve in 1960. Sadly, Nellie’s husband Guy died in 1961, shortly after Washington. the move, but Nellie chose to stay on. She was a natural N.B. was named after his father. He grew up in eastern collector.

Oklahoma on Muscogee Creek tribal land, but was an “N.B. put her in this little building next door, fixed it up entrepreneur at heart. He opened an Indian trading post in and she had an antique shop. My mother loved antiques and Pawnee before World War II but closed it to serve as a soldier collected them and always dreamed of a store on Route 66,” in the war.

Henry said. “When N.B. turned 65, he wanted to sell the After serving in World War II, Moore moved to Clinton Lodge and mama said, ‘Well, I can’t afford it.’ So, he leased and worked briefly at the Clinton Indian Health Center it to her for 10 years. Then she bought it and she ran it for 30 before buying the Mohonk Lodge in 1950. A widower with years,” said Henry. no children, Moore threw himself into making the Mohonk N.B. moved into the house where Nellie sold her antiques Lodge a repository for all things Native American. He added while Nellie took over the trading post and renamed it to the already impressive collection of Native American art “Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post.” He and and artifacts but became a sort of surrogate father to Henry’s Nellie became close, and she cared for him until she passed mother, Nellie Stevens, who hailed from Hobart, Oklahoma. away in 1993.

N.B. had a memory like a steel trap. Despite the thousands “After my mother died,” said Henry, “He came in and said, of items lying about or tucked away in boxes, he knew ‘Well, I guess you’ll want me to be moving on?’ I said, ‘Move exactly where everything was. on, the devil! You’ve got a new kid to teach, so get over here “He had a memory like you wouldn’t believe,” said Henry’s and teach.’ He laughed and we never had another word about daughter, Stacey Henry. “He could see someone, and they him leaving. He stayed in that little house until he died in would come back 20 years later, and he would know them.

1994, a year after my mother.”

He had a way of finding out everything about you. He wasn’t Henry and Moore often had lunch together after she prying about it. He just had a way of talking. By the time you inherited the Mohawk Lodge. During one of those lunches, left, he would know you.”

Moore suddenly fell over in his chair. Henry called an Nellie was born April 2, 1915, in McNabb, Arkansas, to ambulance, but Moore didn’t even make it to the hospital.

W.L. and Callie Mae Self. Her father was part Cherokee and “N.B died of old age,” said Henry. “He just fell over one Comanche, though the family kept the Native heritage secret. day and died.”

Growing up, Nellie didn’t tell people her heritage because neighbors still had harsh feelings for the tribes. Instead, A New Owner Nellie’s family let people think they were Italian.

Nellie was a natural at running the store. She continued to “Today, most people are proud to be an Indian, but it wasn’t trade and buy from Native Americans, collecting priceless good to be one back when my mother grew up because the artifacts to display.

Comanche had done a lot of bad things,” Henry said.

“She ran the store during the heydey of Route 66,” Henry Nellie and her family moved east of Roosevelt, Oklahoma, said. “She was famous for the moccasins that she sold. People in 1923, when she was just eight years old. She married Guy came from all over to buy those moccasins.”

Stevens on October 2, 1933, at Indiahoma at the young age While her mother traded with Native Americans, Patricia of 18. The two were farmers at Cold Springs, but eventually Henry stayed in Snyder, Oklahoma. Henry and her husband opened a commercial laundry in Hobart.

Charles married in 1953 and assumed operations of the Their daughter Patricia was born a year later in 1934. commercial laundry business Nellie and Guy owned in The little family lived in Hobart for over twenty-five years, ROUTE Magazine 39

Hobart. They raised their daughters, Stacey and Stephanie, in Snyder, a small town tucked into the Ouachita Mountain foothills in far eastern Oklahoma.

“It was a small town, but we were free to roam whereever we wanted,” said Stacey. “No one really worried back then, but everyone knew everything you did. There was a mountain right in the middle of the town, and we had your typical small-town upbringing.”

However, growing up, Stacey spent her summers in Clinton with her grandmother at the Lodge, and surrounded by old photographs and rich buckskin, the magic of the area and historical store became her summer playground.

“There would be a bunch of Indian kids who would come over to play. Their grandmothers would come to get them around 1 o’clock so they could go home and learn to bead,” said Stacey. “At the time, I thought I was lucky I didn’t have to go learn to bead, but now I wish I had.”

Stacey and her little friends were not allowed into her grandmother’s antique shop or N.B.’s store when they were little, so they spent their days playing on the old Conestoga wagon that sat in front of the Mohonk Lodge Indian Store.

“We played outside all the time. We would climb up on that wagon and pretend we were going places. Someone would be a driver, and the rest of us played like we were pioneers,” said Stacey. “N.B. never let us kids in the store. When my grandmother took over and I was a little older, I could go inside and help. All the people who came to [the] store to buy or sell just loved my grandmother,” Stacey said. “They were all her best friends.”

Taking Up the Mission Nellie died in 1993, and Henry and her husband inherited the store, leaving their long-time home in Snyder. Henry didn’t know anything about running a business like the store, and she missed her mountains of eastern Oklahoma but she embraced the new challenge.

“I had to learn by hook and crook and by making mistakes.

That’s the way I’ve learned. And the Indian people have been really good to me,” she said. “They don’t write down their histories. It’s word of mouth. And they liked me enough that they told me things. They take care of me, and they’re just like good friends.”

Today, those good friends come from all over the nation - Comanche, Arapaho, Navajo, Apache and more come from Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona and beyond to buy supplies and trade. Because so many other trading and supply stores have shut down over the years, The Mohawk Lodge is one of the last remaining trading posts.

“Many people from all over the world stop in to her shop,” said Pat Smith, director of Clinton’s Route 66 Museum.

“They come in here asking about it too. It’s amazing how many people from around the world know about her store.”

In addition to the tourist trade, Henry still sells hand-crafted moccasins to Native Americans, who use the footwear during Powwows and other festivals and ceremonies.

“They need to buy them for their children and for dances.

They dance on them so much that the soles wear out,” Henry said.

“I used to have a lot more people, but a lot of your old beaders have died and there’s not a younger generation to pick it back up. In a couple of generations, you won’t see anybody who can do crafts like that.”

40 ROUTE Magazine

The Mohawk Lodge is still the top and oldest buyer of Pendleton Native American trade blankets in the nation and visitors from all over the globe stop in to buy them. Trade blankets have been used by Native Americans since 1895 as gifts and at powwows or other events, becoming the most common and prized of the gifts that can be given.

The quirky and unique nature of the Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post only adds to the lure of Route 66.

“Travelers are really interested in anything on Route 66, but especially actual artifacts,” said Julie Caldwell, president of the Clinton Chamber of Commerce. “Not only do people travel here to visit her store, but she also sends things out all over the nation. We get lots of requests for Native American items, and she is our number one source.”

Preserving the Past, for the Future A big part of The Mohawk Lodge is dedicated to artifacts of historic importance. In one case, a hand-beaded cradleboard dating back decades sits next to an Arapaho 1892 cradleboard. A buffalo-hide vest and an 1840 Crow saddle share space with a drum from 1915 that was used in Pawnee Bill’s Wild West Show.

Henry has dozens of trunks left over from when N.B. owned the store that she hasn’t even opened yet. The one trunk she did open had a man’s full buckskin beaded outfit in it. She has no idea how old it is.

But Henry doesn’t sell these artifacts - she treasures them.

“It’s the coolest place. It’s amazing. It’s a place that makes you think about the past when it was your cowboy and Indian days,” Caldwell said. “But the tribes are still using her to make their moccasins and to make their jewelry and to make all of those things.”

“I’m going to keep the store open. Some days, I have no one come in. Some days, a bunch of people come in. As I like to say, some days are a turkey day and some days are a feather day. I imagine my daughter will sell it all eventually,” Patricia said. “But I do hope someone comes and keeps the store open. It would be a shame to see it all broke up.”

The Lodge, rooted in tradition and history that pre-dates Oklahoma statehood, has an uncertain future. Henry’s two daughters, Stacey and Stephanie, have lives of their own in Texas.

“I prefer not to think about what will happen when my mother passes,” said Stacey. “I prefer to think mom will go on forever.”

Henry hopes the artifacts and art, which grabbed the respect of The Smithsonian, will continue to be on display.

“When my mother bought this place and she started getting older, I knew that I would inherit and take over the store,” said Henry. “But I have two daughters and I don’t know whether either one of them will run the store when I’m gone.

I don’t know what will happen to it, but for it to be as old as it is, it is such a treasure.”

These days, it takes a little longer for Henry to get to the door. A little note tucked under her doorbell warns visitors to keep ringing as age makes her a little slower on her feet. She knows one day she won’t be able to keep working. But until that day, however, The Mohawk Lodge Indian Store and Trading Post will remain open, displaying the history, crafts and artifacts that still makes the Old West come alive in little ole’ Clinton.

DISCOVER CLINTON, OKLAHOMA

WHERE ROUTE 66 TRULY COMES ALIVE!

• HIS TORI C HOTE L S• D IV E RS E D INING• •M OHAW K LOD G E IND IAN S TORE• •THE WATE R ZOO•

www.clintonokla.org

THE LAST

Vanishing Rest Stops of 42 ROUTE Magazine

STOP

Words and Photographs

by Ryann Ford

the American Roadside ROUTE Magazine 43

I

t was the summer of 2007 when I made the move from Southern California to Austin, Texas. During my first two years in Texas, I started noticing highway rest stops. One day, I glimpsed at one and thought, “That would be a great photo.” I was drawn to the minimalist scene — a modest little structure set out on a beautiful landscape — and the mid-century architecture.

I Googled, curious to see if the rest stops in other states were as photogenic and also, if anyone else had already covered this subject matter. Instead, I was met with news

article after news article detailing the demise of rest stops all over the country. I was shocked and set out on what would become an almost decade-long project to document as many stops as I could. These rest stops aren't just toilets and tables, but culturally significant pieces of history. They are relics from the bygone era of automobile travel. It is clear that these modest structures did far more than provide picnic tables, they shaped our collective experience of golden-age car travel across the vast United States.

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RIGHT: Winona, TX.

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ABOVE: Monument Valley, AZ.

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Plan a visit and see why visitors have fallen in love with Williams.

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ExperienceWilliams.com • (928) 635-4061

A CONVERSATION WITH

Wes Studi

By Brennen Matthews

Photographs by Jen Boyer

U

ndeniably one of the finest craftsmen on the Silver Screen today, Wes Studi stands out amongst his peers in an industry that is quick to forget. But when he speaks, the thespian is guaranteed to leave a mark.

You were born in 1947, in a place called Nofire Hollow, Oklahoma. What was your childhood like?

Well, my first five years of life were pretty much centered around Nofire Hollow, which is… it’s a country term. It’s not really a place, it’s just a home between the towns of Stilwell, Oklahoma, and Tahlequah. And it’s way out in the country. I lived the farm life, you know, hunting, subsistence, and growing agricultural goods… life in an extended family situation.

We moved from Nofire Hollow when my dad came back from military service. He had studied agriculture, farming, and ranching in high school, so his work took him to several farms and ranches, mainly in the northeastern part of Oklahoma. Small towns like Avant and Skiatook, and finally Collinsville.

Because of my father’s work, we pretty much stayed to ourselves, except when we went back to visit with family in Nofire Hollow… it’s actually Cherokee Nation, it’s the northeastern 14 counties in the state of Oklahoma. And 48 ROUTE Magazine

while we lived within or near its borders, we didn’t really have any kind of social life living in those areas that were mainly made up of non-Cherokee, non-Indian people. So, our life was fairly isolated and pretty much to ourselves, except for the fact that I did have to go to school and such.

Until I went to high school, it was pretty much a solitary kind of growing up. I really didn’t associate that much with people outside of our immediate circle, which were, you know, people who worked the same ranches that the old man did.

Did you go to a mixed high school?

No, I went to an entirely American Indian high school, which was a boarding school called Chilocco Indian Agricultural School. There were tribes from all over the United States there, from New York state to Florida to the Dakotas, the Northwest, the Southwest, there were Indians from everywhere. It was a revelation to me that there were that many different kinds of Indians, to tell the truth.

“ I always wondered about the big Blue

Whale because we used the road between Catoosa and Claremore a lot.

�

ROUTE Magazine 49

When you were growing up, was there an openness in the Cherokee Nation to embrace non-Cherokee culture as well as to welcome non-Cherokees into a better understanding of Cherokee culture, language, history, and etc.?

I don’t know if it’s a great incentive to be more inclusive on a social plain, but I think that, at this point, social pressure has gotten Hollywood to think about telling stories that are more inclusive of different ethnic groups and minorities.

It was [more] a matter of we were Cherokee and they were not, and it was a pretty distinct line between the white population and us. And it was pretty much, ‘never the two shall mix.’ You know, back then, I think the miscegenation and laws were still in effect and there were also towns wherein they had the Green River Ordinance, which was really, ‘Stay out of town if you’re brown.’ After a certain time, like 7 o’clock or dark or whatever. But yeah, it was fairly segregated. I think social life was fairly segregated back then.

You’ve played a lot of very iconic Native American roles in some very respected films. How important is it for you to step outside of the ethnic identity when being cast in a role?

Do you think that Oklahoma has become much more of a multicultural state? Have you seen much of a change back in the Sooner state?

Yeah, I think there’s been a change, you know, because of the Civil Rights Movement, as well as other factors. There’s been a huge change in terms of the Cherokee standing and what is Cherokee Nation at this point, simply because of the fact that Cherokee Nation itself, when I was growing up was, it was fairly nonexistent, it had practically nothing to offer other than… I really don’t know what it had to offer as a child. But by the time of the 70s or thereabouts, it began to grow to the point that it is now probably the most efficient economic machine within the 14 counties of northeastern Oklahoma.

I mean, it hires more people… it’s an economic machine within the state. And so, that has changed a lot of attitudes toward Cherokee people and has promoted more mixture between the races, if you will, and more working together on political and social issues. There has been a change simply because of the growth of the Nation itself, on a political platform.

In a 1993 Entertainment Weekly interview you said, “I’m a Cherokee first and an American later. And while I may forgive, I’ll never forget. I’m gonna pass those feelings on to my own kids.” Do you still feel that way today?

Absolutely, nothing has changed as far as that goes. I stand by that, yeah.

Do you feel that that is a sentiment that a lot of Cherokee would actively support or embrace? Cherokee first, American second?

I think that a lot of people do identify with their own people, if you will. I think it’s just simply inherent in all of us, that we know who we are and where we come from and we also know history.

I’d love to get to the point where I’m considered simply an actor, a working actor, if you will. (Laughs) And personality and all of that aside, you know, celebrity and all of that aside, I think that we as actors simply like to perform any and every kind of role that interests us, and that’s what my goal is, and I will continue to work towards it.

In many ways, starring in The Last of the Mohicans as Magua catapulted you to stardom and a very enviable level as an actor. Was fame something that you actually, at that stage of your career, were looking for?

That was difficult, I’ll have to tell you, it was difficult, and for a while I kind of fortressed myself against the idea of celebrity and fame and sort of said to myself and anyone who asked, ‘No, I think the craft is what I’m more interested in.’ But on the other hand, in order to continue to practice the craft, one needs the attention of filmmakers. So yeah, it’s kind of an obstacle that one has to come to the point of accepting or not.

I don’t think you can rail against being popularized by the press or against any other kind of attention that you receive, simply because you have to have the publicity in order to acquire the work, most of the time. If people don’t know about you, then more than likely, you’re not going to find work. It’s a never-ending cycle.

You moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico, in the early 90s and Mohicans came out in ‘92. Did you find Santa Fe a good place to take cover and a safer landing spot to live your life with a bit of privacy at that point?

Well, I think the main purpose of moving to Santa Fe at that point in time was a matter of where we were going to raise our son and we moved here right after Geronimo, yeah that was in ‘93, and my wife, Maura, was pregnant with our son Kholan. Rather than go back to Los Angeles after Geronimo, we decided Santa Fe was an area that was almost in the middle of the map in terms of where Los Angeles is and where northeastern Oklahoma is. And so, as far as family is concerned, my wife is from LA and I’m from northeastern Oklahoma. Santa Fe is right in-between, so we moved here.

The irony is that as soon as our son graduated from high school, he moved to Los Angeles. (Laughs)

Given your current and past work as a Native American activist, and as an actor who has played countless powerful Native American roles, what do you feel about the current path that Hollywood is heading in terms of representation of Native Americans in film and TV? Are we heading in the right direction?

Isn’t that always the case!

I think we’re probably heading in the right direction, yes, but this business is a very unpredictable creature and it depends on the whims and interests of audiences looking for entertainment.

To prepare for and to execute, yes. (Laughs) They were very well choreographed, and we had some good people to work with in doing that.

50 ROUTE Magazine

Yeah, it sure is. (Laughs)

The fight scenes in The Last of the Mohicans must have required a lot of practice and choreography.

When you are creating a character like Magua, who is filled with so much raw emotion and hate, do you carry the character with you: their emotions and sentiments throughout filming of the picture, or are you able to leave the character behind when the director says, ‘Cut’?

of what they actually did. It’s a repudiation of a genocide, an attempted genocide and I think they should be much more aware of what their actions evoke. I think we all need to look into our own attitudes and actions and how we conceive of issues like this.

Well, during that time, which was probably around my fourth time in front of the big cameras, (Laughs), I found it very difficult to immediately come out of whatever scene I had just done. Feeling the kinds of emotions that you have to bring to the fore for characters like [Magua] who were very intense in terms of what they were accomplishing in their roles… It’s very difficult to come out of an extremely emotional scene. So no, I would simply stay away from people for a while until it kind of wore off and I was back to normal now. (Laughs) Until the next time to do it.

But as time goes on, I think most actors get to the point where they can deal with these emotional scenes and be able to come out of them easier or quicker.

You’ve spent most of your life in one of two Route 66 states, which is pretty cool. In your younger life, were you aware of Route 66? Did its American identity stand out to you?

In recent years you’ve heard people speak out against what they would define as cultural appropriation. What are your feelings about that?

Cultural appropriation is, oh that’s a very fluid concept, if you ask me. I don’t know if it’s a matter of people taking advantage for their own advantage or to capitalize on someone else’s idea…

I don’t know that it’s something I have a handle on. You know, whenever cultures do come together, things are traded and things are negotiated, it’s just difficult to define exactly what it is.

You know, the matter of mascots for one thing is something that has something to do with our cultural appropriation argument. I have to kind of step back and tell you that on a personal level I think it’s disrespectful, I think it was born of an idea that we as Native Americans, American Indians, whichever you would use, were less than human in our existence and we were seen that way or that we were childlike people who needed to be guided through life. In any case, we were put down.

I think whenever you see some non-Indian guy jumping around, acting in a manner that he thinks we act in… that part of it I personally have a problem with. I don’t think that the idea of using the name of the Washington Redskins is any great honor bestowed upon any Native American, because of where the term actually comes from. It’s from our scalps, our noses, our ears, or whatever was used to prove bounty. On the non-Indian’s part, that’s a repudiation

No, (Laughs) I had no idea of it. In fact, I lived very near the big Blue Whale. That’s in Cherokee Nation.

So, Catoosa is part of the Cherokee Nation?

Catoosa is and a large part of the northern part of Tulsa is Cherokee Nation and Claremore, that whole northeastern part of the state is mainly Cherokee Nation. I always wondered about the big Blue Whale because we used the road between Catoosa and Claremore a lot. But no, I had no idea of what Route 66 was until perhaps 1968 or thereabouts.

Have you ever gone to visit the Whale?

No, (Laughs) we just saw it from the road, it was close.

What did you think that huge blue whale in the forest was at the time?

Well, I think that generally, we just thought maybe it was an amusement park or something like that. (Laughs) I don’t ever remember stopping there, you know, so we really had no idea what it was, other than a park or a place to stop and maybe there was… maybe it was like a little carnival or something. But we were busy traveling. It was part of commercial America, as far as we knew, and we didn’t have the time or the money to investigate.

So, what brought Route 66 to your attention in 1968?

When I was on my way to Vietnam, that was in ‘68, I hitchhiked out to the [West] coast, to San Diego. Somewhere around Oklahoma City, I had been hitchhiking for a good day I suppose, and I wasn’t attracting anybody to pick me up.

(Laughs) So I thought, “Well, maybe if I put on my uniform things will change.” So, I just took my duffle bag and, off the road, where I found some cover, I changed into my dress greens. I came back out on to the highway and stood in my ROUTE Magazine 51

uniform and duffle bag. And after a while, it was pretty quick actually, I was picked up by a family moving from somewhere in the southeast out to California. The little family was made up of an older woman, her daughter, and a son-in-law. They were going out to California to change their fortunes.

The first thing that they asked me when they stopped to pick me up was “Do you have a driver’s license?” And I immediately said, “Yes.” I didn’t tell them that it was a

military driver’s license, that’s all I had at the time. But we drove from Oklahoma City to California. They talked a lot about Route 66 as we traveled. It seemed like quite a long trip, but we got to know one another. I actually even drove their car for a while, it was a big old station wagon, kind of old for that time period even. But in any case, yeah, that was quite a trip that we had out to San Diego.

Did you find a warm welcome when you returned home from Vietnam or was the response a little less grateful?

1969 was certainly a time of protests for the war.

I think that it was very significant that when I came back, we landed [back] in San Diego. The army themselves told us, at that point in time, they gave us vouchers to take to the PX to buy ourselves civilian clothes. They said, “It would be best if you traveled in civilian clothes rather than in your uniforms when you’re going home.” So that was a pretty good indication that we were not that welcome anywhere, really. (Laughs)

Do you feel like you have an understanding of the significance of the iconic highway now?

It was a big motorized expansion into the West, beyond railroads and all. And I know that it brought commercial opportunities for southwestern Indians who I guess really started the concept of trading posts, or they expanded those ideas, wherein they were able to commercialize their crafts because of tourists who passed through. I think it was the beginning of the Indian art market. The idea of a romantic Route 66 never entered our mind, it was simply a matter of travel. It was a practicality.

Do you still have an emotional connection to Oklahoma?

Do you feel like you’re going home when you’re in the state?

Yeah, I suppose you could say that. But you know, I have my political differences with the state of Oklahoma. Otherwise, yeah, that’s the land where I come from. My family’s there.

(Laughs) Everybody’s there.

You’re 72 now, you’ve been in countless films and projects, you’ve helped launch a newspaper, you’ve raised three kids, you’ve seen and done a ton of things with your life and your career and it doesn’t seem like you’re at any point Wes, to put your hat on the hook. Are there any things that are still on your bucket list at this point?

I don’t have a hook to hang my hat on at this point. I guess it’s a matter of what I’ll do, figure out how to build a hook for my hat. (Laughs) I’m not looking to do that anytime in the near future.

But I want to work towards the development of Native American filmmaking. I’m working towards a better representation in the overall industry and the growth of Native American filmmaking amongst our own. I think Oklahoma is beginning, as well as many other states… there are a lot of young native filmmakers who are beginning to develop, and I think that within my lifetime, we’re going to have some well-known professional native filmmakers who are going to be known as well as a Spielberg or a Cameron.

So yeah, that’s what I’d like to work toward.

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WANDERERS WELCOME Your perfect stop on the Mother Road. Occupying the historic Ford Motor Company assembly plant in Oklahoma City, 21c Museum Hotel is a multi-venue contemporary art museum coupled with boutique hotel and chef-driven restaurant.

Best New Hotels in the World - Travel + Leisure, It List 2017

900 W Main Street Oklahoma City 405.982.6900 | 21cOklahomaCity.com ROUTE Magazine 53

A Living Legacy N

ot too far from Miami, Oklahoma’s elegant Coleman Theatre rests a very special Route 66 landmark; a one of a kind attraction even, that continues to entice people off of the Mother Road with their tasty food and quirky yellow fiberglass bird sitting high up on its perch. Originally opened in 1965, Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burger is the sole survivor of the former 1960’s fast food chain.

Eugene Waylan, the owner and expert burger flipper of the iconic venue, purchased his restaurant back in 1973 from a firecracker salesman who didn’t know how to run the business. “I already had ten years of experience of restaurant [work] before I bought it. The other [Ku-Ku Burger restaurants] were being run by the company, and one by one these individuals couldn’t keep up with it or sold it,” explained Waylan. “There are a lot of buildings that look like the Ku-Ku, but are [actually] other things like car lots... I get a lot of people that come by to eat and say, ‘We used to have a Ku-Ku in our town.’”

Now they have all but vanished.

The Ku-Ku Burger chain was created by a man from Oklahoma City whose name is now long forgotten, beginning as a smaller establishment and expanding into a chain with almost 200 locations. It received its oddball name due to the cuckoo clock aesthetic that each restaurant had, complete with a little yellow bird donning a white chef’s hat. But with the changing culture and increasing competition, the brand slowly began to disappear, dying out in 1969, with its remaining locations being operated by independent owners until they too folded.

Buying his restaurant after the company was defunct, Waylan started his first day on the job by making less than $100 but grew his business to become an iconic Route 66 stop for the welcoming town of Miami (pronounced Miama).

Now Waylan’s location is one of a kind.

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“I want to be able to tell [customers] that this is the same food that you had 30 years ago. The same hamburger,” noted Waylan. “I’ve had changes since I’ve been here. I have a monthly special, I’ve added buffalo burgers... But everything else is what we had before.”

While Waylan’s exceptional, giant hamburgers can be attributed to part of his restaurant's survival, his success likely comes from the way that he runs his business, centered around the friendly community of Miami and the Mother Road.

“2,500 to 3,000 [tourists visit] a year,” said Waylan.

“Actually, some of them don’t come in to eat, they just take a picture of the [sign.]” Along with the kitschy bird statue and green and yellow neon sign, Waylan has done quite a few renovations to the building, starting back in 1977, when he added his name to the neon sign in the same spot where the price of 15 cent hamburgers was once advertised. Along with expanding the drive-thru and adding another bird statue next to the drive-thru sign, Waylan also added two additions: one made of brick in 1977, and one of glass in 1990. Though he initially thought that he had made a mistake with the additions - as it was harder to see the Ku-Ku bird from the road - visitors kept pouring in off of the old highway each year to have one of Waylan’s famous burgers and soak up the Route 66 nostalgia decorating its walls.

Now in his mid 70’s and having operated Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burger for 46 years, the Miami local isn’t looking to slow down any time soon.

“Oh yeah, I don’t know what’s going to happen, but I’m not planning on retiring,” he explained. “There’s too many good things going on. I want to be doing something. It’s such a good feeling to be able to talk to these people.”

Swing by Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burger restaurant for a giant hamburger, some good conversation, and a slice of Route 66 history.

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The Dynamic Art of

John Suttman

I

f you have ever stayed at La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona, you will have noticed the beautiful craftsmanship of the building, all designed by the famous architect, Mary Colter, back in 1930. But not all the fixtures in the hotel are that old, including the intricate Train Gate and the yellow glass lamps that sit right beside it. These, and other new additions, were created by local artist and resident, John Suttman, whose creative work with metal and fused glass continues to add color and texture to the historic venue and the blossoming art community of Winslow. But Suttman’s journey did not begin in Winslow, where standing on a corner has become an international past-time.

Growing up in New Mexico, Suttman was surrounded by the arts. “I grew up in a craft- oriented family,” he explained.

“My father was a graphic artist but had many interests and was a masterful craftsman. I was his assistant and learned a lot in that way. My father’s brother, my uncle, Paul Suttman, was a well-known sculptor who worked primarily in bronze and stone. I worked with my uncle during my college years.”

Having worked in the art business with his uncle and father, Suttman had both the skills and the interest to pursue the passion himself. These various influences led him down many different artistic paths, using steel as his medium of choice to create his unique artwork. Part of the initial draw to using steel came from its malleability, but there were also a few convenient reasons, like its low price point, which Suttman took advantage of in college.

After graduating, Suttman worked as a goldsmith and created jewelry for ten years, but eventually grew tired of the work due to its small, confining scale. He wanted a change, and so he turned his attention to something much larger: furniture. But Suttman’s furniture was anything but ordinary, as each piece would bend and flow in dynamic, unexpected ways. He crafted his furniture using steel and carefully finished each piece to resemble wood. The end result were stunning chairs, drawers, and tables whose unconventional movement and shape deserved a second glance. And they received it.

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But just like with jewelry, furniture began to take its toll on Suttman’s artistic calling. “At a certain point one gets tired of doing the same sort of work. I have other ideas that I want to explore.” These ideas eventually led to Suttman’s current work with glass. “[Glass] is a seductive material, so unlike most of the other materials I have worked with,” noted Suttman. “Glass allows for painted or printed imagery to be fused into [it], which I find endlessly interesting.” Suttman’s enchanting, fused glass sculptures with animal and human imagery populate his current studio in Winslow and La Posada Hotel. But how he wound up in Winslow leads back to his fateful trip to the southwestern hotel.

“During my years in [California,] Joan [Suttman’s girlfriend] and I would travel through the southwest with some regularity and on one of those trips we discovered the La Posada Hotel in Winslow, AZ. We were smitten with the [venue],” Suttman recalled. “Long story short is that I left my card at the front desk advertising my architectural iron work. Allan [Affeldt, the owner] called me about a year later and thus began our friendship and an ongoing project of building new iron elements for the hotel that continues today.”

Through his friendship with Allan, Suttman was also able to find a studio nearby, which he is currently renovating today.

Now, Suttman and his intricate artwork resides in this sleepy Arizona town, happily enjoying the quieter atmosphere that it has to offer, one that continues to grow into an exciting, new hub for artists. “I feel that the Arts are becoming more and more important to the ethos of the Winslow community as time passes, and with the creation of the new Winslow Arts Trust Museum, the Arts have become an even stronger presence.”

Suttman is expecting his gallery space to be open sometime in 2020, and is eager to use his haven to showcase both his work and the creations of fellow artists’ work to the public.

So, the next time that you are visiting La Posada, remember to walk the grounds and take in both the visceral history and keep an eye open for Suttman’s colorful glass lamps that are flourishing throughout.

The Winslow Arts Trust is a nonprofit organization that works with historians, artists and performers to create programs that celebrate the culture of Winslow, Arizona; Las Vegas, New Mexico; and the Historic Route 66/Santa Fe Railroad corridor that connects them. Open 7 days a week – call for gallery viewing times.

333 E 2nd St, Winslow, AZ 86047 • 928.289.4366 (Located at the Historic La Posada Hotel)

winslowartstrust.org

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ROUTE 58 ROUTE Magazine

PULA’ FAST ONE. Get ready to stop and grab a selfie. Our iconic

33-mile stretch of historic Route 66 is filled with photo-ops like the painted Frog Rock (known as WH Croaker by the locals) and this 1923 steel truss bridge over the Big Piney river. Hoppers Pub is also a must-do with 66 beers on tap and frog legs that taste just like chicken!

Plan your trip at PulaskiCountyUSA.com.

ROUTE Magazine 59

F

rom the outset, Route 66 was intended to connect the main streets of urban and rural communities and bring access to a major national thoroughfare to places that didn’t have it before. Its popularity grew even as America rapidly began to change, and in 1930, the road rivaled the railroad in dominance over the American shipping industry. John Steinbeck’s classic 1939 novel, The Grapes of Wrath, referred to the route as “The Mother Road”, further cementing it into the American consciousness and many of those who escaped to California during the Depression era used Route 66 in their travels, making it known as the “road of opportunity.”

The Mother Road saw the beginnings of tourist-targeted businesses early on, as people motoring West naturally required somewhere to bed for the night and food and fuel while they traveled. Initially, entrepreneurial farmers opened up some of their land for camping and industrious women on the road began to serve up simple but affordable meals. Soon after, cabin camps were developed to offer minimal comfort at manageable prices. By the 50s, the economy in the US was booming and a culture of leisure focused road travel was developing. Where were people heading? West. And what road were they using? Route 66.

And to meet them blossomed some of the most colorful, quirky, memorable motels, restaurants and attractions

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imaginable. The entrepreneurial spirit presented a myriad of options to pull people off of the highway, the most notable being flashy neon that beckoned the curious or weary traveler as they headed to Disneyland, the Grand Canyon or the pure blue Pacific Ocean.

Today, there are innumerable options for where to stay when traveling down Route 66, from the chain brands to the iconic choices. This year ROUTE has narrowed the options of our must-visits on Route 66 into three categories that will make your trip an even more unique experience: brands we love, vintage favorites and luxury lodging. Experience The Mother Road in every way possible. Brands we love will give you the flair and convenience you need and expect, vintage venues are guaranteed to offer the ultimate nostalgic experience, and retiring in luxury lodging will ensure you have all the comforts a 21st Century Route 66 traveler needs and more. This list is not an exhaustive one and certainly we have not forgotten must-see stops like The Blue Swallow in Tucumcari, New Mexico, La Posada in Winslow, Arizona, Wigwam Motels in Rialto, California, and Holbrook, Arizona, Boots Court in Carthage, Missouri, the Campbell Hotel in Tulsa, Oklahoma, or Munger Moss in Lebanon, Missouri. We also recognize that for many die-hard Mother Road travelers, including more modern boutique hotels and chain brand selections will potentially raise an eyebrow, but we are urging readers to keep an open mind and to embrace all that Route 66 offers today.

When you motor West, on the highway, that’s the best, be sure to do so in whatever fashion suits your needs and desires, including where you decide to get your rest.

This year’s Odyssey list represents ROUTE’s suggestions on where you should prioritize as you travel the most famous highway in the world. Visit them, enjoy them and let us know about your experience.

6 6 E T U RO

Y E S S Y D O r o f s k c i P s ’ e g n i n z o l a A g a y a M t S E T o d t U a s o e c RO R a l er P h t p o o t he M t he T

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Vintage Venues

Our favorite places to stay for a taste of real Americana come with a glorious helping of vintage kitsch, combined with creature comforts and lots of heart. If you have a penchant for nostalgia, look no further. These venues are tried, tested and beloved.

Considered one of the most famous and recognizable historic motels on Route 66, the Wagon Wheel Motel, offers throwback charm and modern comforts in equal measure. First opened for business more than 80 years ago by Robert and Margaret Martin, the venue consisted of the Wagon Wheel Cafe in the front, a gas station next door, and late 19th and 20th century Tudor Revival styled Ozark stone cottages, designed by stonemason Leo Friesenhan. The iconic neon sign, a slice of pure roadside Americana straight out of the 40s, still shines bright since its installation in 1947

by John Mathis, the second owner of the cabins. The motel passed through several hands, including a period of deterioration before being purchased by current owner, Connie Echols, in 2009. Renovations have given the historic property new life, with beautifully manicured grounds that set a really peaceful atmosphere and clean, comfortable rooms that carry a modern vibe without losing any of the original charms. Modern amenities include high-speed Internet access, cable T.V. and laundry facilities. A highlight to a night spent at the Wagon Wheel is unwinding at the end of the day in front of the toasty fire pit, a drink in hand, listening to the night sounds, swapping road travel stories with fellow travelers, while the vibrant red and green neon lights whisper in the visual language of a bygone era. A true rare gem.

Image courtesy of Efren Lopez/Route66Images.

Wagon Wheel Motel, Cuba, MO

This quintessential roadside motel has offered respite to travelers for over 80 years. The display of classic cars, vintage gas pumps, a real red telephone booth that stands out front, and the pleasure of parking your car right outside your room will give you the authentic feel of traveling the Mother Road. Brothers Elwyn and Lawrence Lippman built eight sandstone cottages on their grandfather’s apple orchard in 1938, christening the establishment Rail Haven, a name inspired by the split rail fence that surrounded the property. Given its prime location on Route 66, by 1946, the motel had grown to 28 rooms and in the early 1950s, it joined the Best Western brand.

With some renovations, it become the Best Western Route 66 Rail Haven considered one of the oldest properties in the Best Western chain - and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Once patronized by the likes of Elvis Presley and Loretta Young, the venue has grown to encompass 93 rooms, (42 of which are original converted cottages) reflecting the juxtaposition of modern amenities - including a complimentary continental breakfast - and a fascinating historical past. The art on the walls tell of the historical evolution of the motel, while creature comforts ensure a stress-free stay. Tip: Don’t miss the 1965 Best Western sign, complete with a golden crown on top. It’s an attraction in its own right.

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Image courtesy of Efren Lopez/Route66Images.

Rail Haven, Springfield, MO

There is something about the wild West that evokes a sense of fun and adventure, and the Big Texan Motel, styled into an archetype of an old West Main Street, with a bright pink, yellow and blue facade, brings out the wild Texas aesthetic, full on. Western styled rooms featuring cedar walls, saloon doors that lead to the bathroom, animal pelts and western paintings on the walls will have you embracing your inner cowboy with abandon.

A dip in the outdoor Texas shaped swimming pool is not to be missed, nor is a visit to the sprawling steakhouse next door, the home of the famous ‘Free 72 oz. Steak,’ challenge.

The Big Texan Ranch complex, which the motel is a part, is a must-see Route 66 destination. To see it, is to believe it. So, whether you are just passing through or staying the night, be ready for a one-of-a-kind Lonestar kitschy experience. It’s rustic, it’s larger-than-life and it’s the real deal. We love Texas.

Image courtesy of Efren Lopez/Route66Images.

The Big Texan Motel, Amarillo, TX

Historic Route 66 Motel, Seligman, AZ

Image courtesy of David J. Schwartz – Pics On Route 66.

A glowing tower of neon brightness stands guard over this classic roadside motel. The story goes that in 1964, the Pope family spent a night at what was then the Navajo Motel, on a cross country trip to California. An impression was made. Fast forward 20 years later, the Pope family moved to Seligman, Arizona, bought the motel, renamed it Historic Route 66 Motel and the rest, as they say, is history. This family run venue - by the children and grandchildren of the Pope’s - embodies the true essence of mom and pop hospitality, where road-weary guests are treated like family. The rooms, which are named after iconic celebrities such as Martin Milner, Ben Johnson and Monty Montana, who have all stayed here, offers all the nostalgia of the Great American Road trip but with the conveniences of the modern era. Simple, comfortable and brightened by delightful touches of Route 66 memorabilia, this is one motel that undeniably offers that old Americana feel. And right next door is the infamous Road Kill Cafe, owned and run by the same family, whose theme of ‘You Kill It, We Grill It’ will cause you to have just as much fun ordering your food, as you will have eating it. Located right on Route 66 and on the main street of Seligman, the Historic Route 66 Motel serves as the perfect launching off point for exploring the iconic town it calls home.

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Luxury on the Route

On an epic road trip you may want to splurge a little. There really are a number of wonderful higher end options to explore when out on 66 too. But, our list of favorites for overnighting in style each offer something extraordinary - be it their history, architecture, soul or their stylish nod to vintage Americana. Above all, these are venues that will affect the way you feel. Life will be so much better when you check in.

State House Inn, Springfield, IL History neighbors history, and if you are in Springfield, Illinois, the State House Inn, a designated historic landmark, which stands just across the street from the striking Old State Capitol - where Abraham Lincoln first confronted Stephen A. Douglas, his rival for the Presidency, in 1860, and where he made his famed “House Divided” speech on slavery - is the perfect place to explore the Land of Lincoln and immerse yourself in history. This handsome venue has been around in some incarnation since 1961 - the most stylish hotel in Springfield at its time - but its most recent version is by far the best yet, with extensive renovations as the first franchised property in The Red Collection. Designed in the International Style of architecture that was developed in the 1920s and 1930s, the hotel has successfully maintained the harmony between artistic expression, function and efficiency, while staying true to the authenticity of the era in which the hotel was originally built. A visually weightless essence welcomes you, from the lobby that features a stone fireplace, flowing through to the Piano Bar/Lounge with views of the majestic classical columns of the Old State Capitol. The rooms are mindfully minimal with high-quality details, huge windows with views of downtown, and art on the walls that give a nod to Lincoln. If you have kids in tow, or even if you don’t, the Mary Todd Suite and the Abraham Lincoln Suite, offer two bedrooms for extra space and privacy. You will love the complimentary full hot breakfast, Wi-Fi and parking, and the close proximity to all the sites and attractions. You won’t have to walk far to the Lincoln Historic Site or the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum.

In Springfield, this is THE place to rest your head.

Chase Park Plaza Hotel, St. Louis, MO The Chase Park Plaza Hotel dates way back, way back to 1922. Attorney Chase Ulman built the hotel only a few years before Sam Koplar erected the 28 story Park Plaza directly adjacent. After a few decades of competition, the two buildings merged and became the Chase Park Plaza, which was famed for its style and swagger. St. Louis was the largest city between Chicago and Los Angeles and served as the gateway to the West for those following old Route 66. One side of the hotel rests on Lindell Boulevard, once a Route 66 alignment, which put the Chase right on the map, literally. It became the “it” place to stay, with an impressive roster of famous guests including Elvis, Jerry Lewis, and the Rolling Stones. The hotel was also one of the first in the area to add an outdoor pool. They made history yet again when Harry Belafonte made the news as the first person to break the color line in the very same pool.

The outdoor area embodies glamor and sophistication with its stone-carved porticoes and decorative fountains. You can lounge by the outdoor fireplace and daydream about the times Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. spent their evenings here. Referred to as a “city within a city”, the Chase boasts an 18,000 square foot Santé Fitness Center, a barbershop, salon and spa, three restaurants and gift shop. Where in its past the Chase Hotel formerly held wrestling events, now sits Chase Park Plaza Cinemas, showing the latest film releases. It is quite possible that you won’t have any need or reason to leave the Chase Park Plaza. The Chase Park Plaza is a history and attraction-packed stop on any Route 66 trip that offers a luxurious travel back in time.

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Hotel Vandivort, Springfield, MO One of the new kids on the block in the boutique hotel world is the Hotel Vandivort in Springfield, Missouri. The venue’s chic aesthetic, exposed brick walls, and open floor plan are only part of what make it an elegant and comfortable place to spend the night. While the Vandivort opened in 2015, the building itself was created in 1906 and was initially used as a Masonic Temple, making the space over 100-years-old. In the 80s, the building received a face lift that turned it into an office space, and up until recently, the Springfield Contemporary Theatre had made its home on the fourth floor.

Understanding the storied history of the building, the new owners, John and Billy McQueary, have worked to keep the charm and beauty of the original structure, while adding all the modern amenities and elegant sophistication that comes with a four-star hotel. Given the building’s rich history, it has been classified as a local historic site and has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places, solidifying its place as a historical stopping point in Springfield’s entergetic downtown area.

The Vandivort has not only worked to reclaim its history, but it has a green thumb to boot. This can be seen in the hotel’s reclamation of 100-year-old wood from the building itself, which they have repurposed into work tables that visitors can use during their stay. Other environment-friendly features include LED lighting, water conservation fixtures, and the use of locally sourced food and drink in their restaurant, The Order. Leaving this hipster haven and heading back to the open road may require some effort.

The Mayo, Tulsa, OK It’s been almost a century since the adventurous project of brothers Cass and John Mayo began. The young brothers left farm life behind, hoping to find success in Tulsa, and eventually made a name for themselves in the furniture business. A visit to New York City so impressed John Mayo that he later said that if he ever built a hotel, he would want it to be just like the Plaza. As the furniture business was booming, the Mayo brothers decided to branch out into real estate. With a deep desire to build the best first class lodging in Tulsa, they joined with architect George Winkler to design an Art Deco style hotel that offered the most modern amenities of the day. Officially opening in 1925, it’s nineteen stories drew attention as the tallest building in Oklahoma at the time.

Its six-hundred luxurious rooms impressed high-society and the Mayo gained a reputation as the place to see and be seen. Their star-studded guest roster boasted the names of John F. Kennedy, Lucille Ball, Elvis, Charlie Chaplin, Babe Ruth, and Bob Hope. Often host to a number of rich and powerful oil tycoons, the Mayo was the site of many major oil deals in Tulsa. It’s also rumored to have served the first legal drink in Tulsa after the end of Oklahoma’s Prohibition, which had left the state dry for many years, despite the federal repeal of Prohibition.

Although it was listed on the National Register of Historical Places in 1980, the Mayo closed its doors only one year later and fell into disrepair over the next three decades. However, the Snyders, a local family, purchased the property in 2001, and began an enormous restoration estimated to have cost around $42 million. Reopened in 2009, the Mayo’s Kubrick-esque lobby is a stunning entrance to luxury that still attracts the stars, including names like Lady Gaga, Britney Spears, Fleetwood Mac, and Bob Seger. The famed Presidential Suite where Elvis stayed has since been converted into the Penthouse rooftop bar, where you will find breathtaking views overlooking Tulsa and the Arkansas River.

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The 21c Museum Hotel is both accommodation and attraction. This 135-room boutique hotel in Oklahoma City is also home to 14,000 square feet of art galleries and exhibition space for both permanent installations and rotating exhibitions. A natural selection for the 21c collection, this Oklahoma City hotel is home to the Purple Penguin which is part of the flock of iconic penguin sculptures present in each 21c hotel. Founded by art collectors Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson, 21c hotels are each developed with the intent to revitalize and repurpose historic but neglected structures, while also bringing contemporary art to the public.

The building dates back to 1916 when it was a Ford Motor Company Assembly Plant. Built by Albert Kahn, a master of modern industrial architecture, the original building’s scale and openness have been preserved and perhaps improved with the installation of new glass and brick light wells that bring in even more natural light to its core. Fred Jones, one of the plant’s oldest employees, eventually bought the building in 1968 and became one of the world’s largest Ford dealers. His wife, Mary Eddy, was an art enthusiast and humanitarian who loved being involved in the Oklahoman community. Mary Eddy’s Kitchen, the onsite restaurant on the ground floor, serves artfully prepared New American dishes in what was once a Model T showroom, taking advantage of the light-filled open space.

Beyond the plethora of art and architecture to take in, the hotel offers rooms with high ceilings and large steel windows, outfitted with custom-designed furniture and luxury beds. The spa, fitness center, valet, and shuttle to downtown attractions means you’ll be well-equipped during your stay. 21c Oklahoma City is truly a noteworthy attraction in an important Route 66 town.

The Colcord Hotel, OKC, OK After twelve stories were completed in 1910, the Colcord Hotel became the first skyscraper in Oklahoma City. The hotel was a project of Charles Francis Colcord, notable Oklahoma rancher, lawman, oilman, and developer. Born on a plantation in Colcord, OK, in 1859, Colcord relocated as a child to a family friend’s ranch in Texas after contracting malaria. He learned to herd cattle by age twelve and eventually became a major cattleman helping to organize the Comanche Pool, a historical spread of some sixty thousand cattle.

After staking many successful land claims, Colcord finally settled in Oklahoma City where he became its first sheriff and one of its most important pioneer developers.

Colcord chose to build the structure with reinforced steel and concrete after witnessing the destruction in San Francisco from an earthquake in 1906. It was the first building of its kind in Oklahoma. Under the direction of architect William A. Wells, the Colcord was influenced by the popular Chicago School of style. It functioned as an office building for most of its life and survived the area’s urban renewal period in the 80s. The building was renovated into a luxury hotel in 2006 with modern upscale amenities. However, its original marble columns, floors, and walls remain, along with its antique elevator doors and nickel and bronze letterbox, a testament to its storied past.

The Colcord sits across the street from Myriad Botanical Gardens and is within shuttle distance from downtown attractions.

Aside from the architecture, small touches remind guests of its antique and vintage charm. Choose coffee or tea delivered to your room in the morning and enjoy turndown service with the next day’s weather information prepared for you in the evening. Colcord will definitely give you a memorable visit.

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Image courtesy of David J. Schwartz – Pics On Route 66.

21c Museum Hotel, OKC, OK

Hotel Chaco, Albuquerque, NM The first project of the Heritage Hotels and Resorts group that was built from the ground up, Hotel Chaco was thoughtfully designed by architectural firm Gensler, and inspired from the history of local Chaco Canyon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Park. Similar to the structural composition of Chaco Canyon, the architectural elements of Hotel Chaco are aligned to the movements of the sun. Hotel Chaco celebrates the region’s indigenous heritage with commissioned original artwork by notable Native American artists.

Every element of design has been carefully chosen, intentionally evoking a sense of place that embodies the mystery of Chaco Canyon. From detailed cylindrical clay pottery vessels similar to those discovered in Chaco Canyon (believed to have been used in cacao ceremonies), to the water and fire elements of the earthy construction materials and stone banco seating along the circular walls, Hotel Chaco is truly an artistic homage to this cherished ancient heritage site.

Expect only luxurious (but not pretentious) amenities at this breathtaking property. Enjoy the view of downtown Albuquerque from the Level 5 rooftop restaurant and bar. A garden courtyard with firepit, outdoor full-service pool, hot tub, private yoga classes, and modern fitness center really bring Hotel Chaco into the upper ranks of luxury accommodations in Albuquerque.

Onsite Gallery Chaco and Dakkya Gift Boutique houses a collection of Native American artwork and artisan crafts, and every guest at Hotel Chaco receive a 15% discount at over 100 locally owned shops, restaurants, and attractions in Albuquerque.

Hotel Chaco truly stands out in Albuquerque and with a night or two here, and you might find yourself hard-pressed to say which was more memorable, the journey or the accommodation.

Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town, Albuquerque, NM Founded in 1706 by Francisco Cuervo y Valdez, Old Town is the soul of modern Albuquerque.

Framed with iconic Southwestern adobe buildings, some of which swapped their original Victorian and Colonial styles for modernized Pueblo Revival architectural remodels in the 20th Century, the town is still overlooked by the oldest building in the city. San Felipe de Neri Church certifiably dates back to the Spanish Colonial period and is a time capsule of the rich cultural heritage of this dynamic community.

Old Town is also home to Hotel Albuquerque, a 1976-built venue that embodies the diverse mix of history and culture that defines New Mexico. Situated on two historic highways, Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town rests on the path of old Route 66 as well as the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, or “Royal Road of the Interior Land.” This historic trade route stretches all the way from New Mexico to Mexico City, parts of which date back to the Pre-Columbian era.

The interior design and architectural details of the hotel pay homage to famed New Mexican architect John Gaw Meem, renowned for the Pueblo Revival style visible throughout the region. The property also houses a 19th Century-style chapel that is surrounded by Spanish gardens and a Victorian pavilion. Upscale modern spaces merge with historical landmarks here and visitors are promised an intimate, romantic experience that will create a sensation of being whisked away to a New Mexico of yesteryear.

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Brands We Love

Sometimes when traveling down Route 66, you just need a hotel brand that you know and can trust. The Mother Road travels through a number of fun, funky cities that offer a wide diversity of noteworthy places to stay, so before you get too overwhelmed with options, we’ve got you covered.

Holiday Inn Express & Suites, Edwardsville, IL The third oldest city in Illinois plays host to this Holiday Inn which is Edwardsville’s newest hotel. Located right off highway 157 and close to Edwardsville’s historic and quaint tree lined downtown, it serves as the perfect jumping off point to explore all that this charming town has to offer, including its undeniable connection to the Mother Road.

The hotel’s interior, from the lobby to its rooms, is designed with deep blue accents that give it a modern and sleek appearance.

Enjoy a hot complimentary breakfast, complimentary Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs, and comfortable bedding that will give you the perfect’s night’s rest. Rooms are clean, spacious with a crisp modern design and come with a microwave, minifridge, and coffee maker to make you feel right at home. Visiting a Holiday Inn you generally know what to expect, but this location in Edwardsville somehow feels more luxurious and spacious and provides a place to kick back and catch your breath.

When you are ready to head out, Edwardsville has plenty of fun-filled sights and sounds to explore. Don’t miss the kitschy, fiberglass cow sign, properly named “Herbie the Hereford”, that’s right above the Goshen Butcher Shop, the historic Wildey Theatre where you can catch a classic movie or watch a live performance, and with the younger set, a visit to the Edwardsville Children’s Museum is a must.

Holiday Inn Express and Suites, Elk City, OK Founded in 1901 as an agricultural trade center, the completion of the Choctaw Railroad that same year opened up Elk City to the outside world. By 1902, Elk City boasted more than 60 businesses - including two hotels and several boarding houses and a population exceeding 1,000. When the Mother Road came through town, Elk City rose to the challenge of catering to weary travelers. The discovery of oil in the mid-1940s brought in another population boom. So, it is against this historical backdrop, of Route 66 and a booming oil and gas industry, that the Holiday Inn is set. The moment you step through its doors, from the unusually fantastic service, to the spacious rooms, to the complimentary hot breakfast, you will feel right at home.

Each suite is crisp with modern decor offering a separate living space, kitchenette, sofa bed, multimedia flat screen TVs, a microwave and mini-fridge. Traveling with kids? This hotel gets many things right with perks such as free Wi-Fi access and a fun indoor water park that is geared to offer a great time for all. Young or old, you may find yourself spending some extra time there.

For a peek into the Route 66 era, a visit to the National Route 66 and Transportation Museum is highly recommended, as is the Old Town Museum. Elk City is a town that has a lot going on.

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Conveniently located right on Route 66 in historic downtown Weatherford, this two level, quaint motel style Best Western, has been welcoming travelers for over 60 years. Originally opened in 1959 as the luxurious Mark Motor Hotel, by owners Ed Berron Sr., Arthur Dhotts and Cliff Pennington, today, under new owners, Joe and Pam Martin, it has undergone major renovations that have delivered an attractive hotel with all the modern comforts, while still maintaining an antique ambiance. The grand entrance canopy with a natural stone veneer adds a decorative element and natural beauty to the exterior façade of the hotel. The lobby is warm and comforting, epitomizing a rustic mountain ranch vibe with hanging chandeliers and exposed beams crisscrossing the lofty ceiling.

Well-appointed rooms, a heated outdoor saltwater pool set in a charming cabana style pool area, a fitness center and full bar make unwinding easy. Enjoy the complimentary perks of a full hot breakfast and Wi-Fi. Once known as “wild and wooly” Weatherford has transformed into a charming small town with plenty of things to do and see. Home to Southwestern Oklahoma State University, which set its roots down in 1901, the main street running through the heart of the town was incorporated into U.S. Route 66’s alignment in 1926. Don’t miss historic Lucille’s Station built in 1927 and located a short drive up the road. The Stafford Air & Space Museum and the Heartland of America Museum should also be on your must-visit list.

Image courtesy of David J. Schwartz – Pics On Route 66.

Best Western Plus, Weatherford, OK

Set amongst the tall pines trees that this mountain town is famous for, and located just off of old Route 66, this Doubletree by Hilton offers an excellent base from which to explore the many attractions of Flagstaff and Route 66.

When Route 66 wound its way through Arizona, it drove straight through the town of Flagstaff, ultimately shaping the development of the area into a major Route 66 hub. Neon-sign lit motels and diners popped up along either side of the two-lane road and traffic increased so much that they had to widen the highway. The town offers a more earthy, outdoorsy mood and ambiance that is unique along the Mother Road.

Today, Flagstaff still maintains much of the historic and vintage nostalgia of Route 66, so plan to spend a day or two here.

After all the exploring, you’ll be glad to make it back to the Doubletree for some rest before the next leg of your journey. The lobby is airy and spacious, with a fireplace and lounge area that set the perfect tone to kick back and unwind. Rooms are fitted with Serta Perfect Sleeper beds and are spacious and incredibly comfy. For anyone who can’t imagine their lives without exercise, there is a fitness center onsite. Be sure to take advantage of the many recreational opportunities, including an outdoor heated pool and indoor whirlpool spa, all overlooking a picturesque vista. Two onsite restaurants, Woodlands and Sakura Sushi and Teppanyaki make the Doubletree a well-rounded accommodation.

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Image courtesy of David J. Schwartz – Pics On Route 66.

Doubletree by Hilton, Flagstaff, AZ

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ARIZONA See it all from the Heart of Historic Route 66

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1.866.427.7866 GOKINGMAN.COM ROUTE Magazine 71

PARTING SHOT

Ryann FORD What is the most memorable place you’ve visited on Route 66? The Blue Whale in Catoosa, Oklahoma, or Cadillac Ranch. What did you want to be when you grew up? Lawyer.

What characteristic do you respect the most in others?

Trustworthiness. Dislike in others? Not respecting animals.

What characteristic do you dislike in yourself? Being too serious.

Who would you want to play you in a film based on your life?

Gwyneth Paltrow. Talent that you WISH you had? Flying.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received? Make your own luck. Best part about getting older? Waking up early is getting easier.

What would the title of your memoir be? My Chihuahua is a Jerk: A Memoir. First music concert ever attended? Third Eye Blind. What is your greatest extravagance?

Splurging at fancy restaurants.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?

I’d be a morning person. What do you consider your greatest achievement? Publishing my book.

Most memorable gift you were ever given? A college education. What is the secret to a happy marriage?

A husband that will and can cook.

What breaks your heart? The current environmental crisis & massive loss of species. What is still on your bucket list? Traveling through the Australian Outback. Strangest rest area in America? Bonneville Salt Flats 72 ROUTE Magazine

(Utah). What do you wish you knew more about? How to stop my chihuahua from being a jerk. What is something you think everyone should do at least once in their lives?

Eat queso. What fad or trend do you hope comes back? Neon pink. Strangest experience while on a road trip? Witnessing the arachnid infestation at Walker Lake in Nevada. What movie title best describes your life? 9–5. Ghost town or big city person? Ghost town. What does a perfect day look like to you? Driving a desolate desert road eating a Filet-O-Fish. What is your favorite place on Route 66? Roy’s in Amboy, CA. What would your spirit animal be? A groundhog. If you won the lottery, what is the first item you would buy?

A modern house in the desert. What meal can you not live without? Italian food — garlic pizza with Ranch or Cheese Ravioli — and red wine.

What surprises you most about people?

How weird they are. What makes you laugh? Silly animal videos. Favorite memory on Route 66? A tie between drinking margaritas at the El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, NM, and eating a burger at The Midpoint Cafe. What do you think is the most important life lesson for someone to learn? Don’t depend on anyone except for yourself. What is one thing you have always wanted to try, but have been too afraid to? Scuba Diving. What do you want to be remembered for?

Having terrible taste in music.

Illustration: Jenny Mallon.

Ryann Ford’s pivotal book, The Last Stop: Vanishing Rest Stops of the American Roadside celebrates a time in America when the journey was indeed the destination. There was nothing mundane or generic. A trip down the road or across the country was filled with the unexpected and adventure. In this issue, we discover more than just a little Americana, we meet the woman behind the book herself.

kick back in

Cuba,Missouri A city filled with history, art and small town charm 14 Murals • Four Motels • Museum • Winery • Restaurants • Antique Mall • Largest Rocking Chair

www.cubamomurals.com

www.visitcubamo.com

With more than 300 days of sunshine a year – and a unique mix of tranquil waters, rugged mountains, and tons of fun – it’s hard to stay inside. Discover Lake Havasu City – just a short drive from Route 66 – and play like you mean it.Ž

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