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24 Hours in Helsinki

A Guide to Discovering the Best of Finland’s Capital in One Day

Written & Photographed by Alison Engstrom

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Helsinki is a place brimming with distinctive design, architecture and culture just waiting to be discovered. Whether you’re planning a visit as part of a longer trip to Scandinavia, heading to SuperShe Island (see page 108), or just on a layover on your way to another destination, it’s well worth exploring. While a more extended stay would of course be preferable, it’s good to know that you can still enjoy the best the city has to offer in just a day—if you plan accordingly. Here is a sampling of some noteworthy sights, flavors and experiences for the time-pressed traveler to this delightful Nordic capital.

Stay

HOTEL ST. GEORGE

Yrjönkatu 13, 00120, stgeorgehelsinki.com

The newly opened Hotel St. George offers a luxurious escape right in the heart of Helsinki, one that blends thoughtful modern design with works from renowned artists. Situated adjacent to the historic Old Church, some parts of this imposing structure date back to the 1840s, but the main building with its elegant cream-colored façade is the work of Onni Tarjanne, a prominent Finnish architect who designed and built it in the late nineteenth century. Over the years, the building has served many purposes, including housing the Finnish Literature Society, where the country’s first newspaper was printed. Today, the hotel has been carefully restored to offer guests not only a place to relax but also a place to get inspired—art is virtually everywhere you turn, with over 300 pieces on display for visitors to enjoy. The entryway features an imposing piece by famed contemporary artist Ai Weiwei called Tianwu, a large scale kite made of bamboo and silk suspended from the ceiling, but the focal point of the hotel is the Wintergarden, a glass-roofed courtyard where guests can relax on comfortable sofas and enjoy a drink. The room is decorated with a vibrant bespoke botanical wallpaper by Finnish designer and artist Klaus Haapaniemi, and an intricate seagull sculpture by Pekka Jylhä aptly called Learning to Fly hangs overhead. The hotel boasts 148 unique rooms with an elegant minimalist vibe, in restful tones of pale gray and powder white with brighter accents; each is stocked with toiletries from Swedish brand L:A Bruket. You will also find a few places to eat in-house, including Restaurant Andrea, which melds Nordic and Anatolian flavors, and the St. George Bakery, which serves coffee, pastries and delectable sourdough bread made right on the premises. At the end of the day, you can rejuvenate mind and body at St. George Care, where a swimming pool, two saunas (Finnish and Turkish), an ice-cold dipping pool and various indulgent spa services await you.

Food & Drink

The Finns drink a lot of coffee. In fact, according to the International Coffee Organization, they drink the most per capita in the entire world, so you can expect to find some truly great coffee places scattered throughout the city center. The restaurant scene is also worth exploring—you’ll encounter the delightful smell of cinnamon-laced sweet buns as you wander the different neighborhoods in search of a meal or just a snack.

LEVAIN BAKERY & EATERY

Runeberginkatu 29, 00100, levain.fi

Located on the outskirts of the Design District, this enticing bakery sells still life-worthy loaves of sourdough and sweet buns and also offers robust espresso and a healthy menu that starts at breakfast and ends with dinner.

KUUMA

Albertinkatu 6, 00150, kuumahelsinki.com

This bright café features lots of gleaming white tile, a glossy turquoise floor and a pastel green Smeg refrigerator. Stop by if you’re looking to refuel on caffeine or food, and be sure to check out their popular all-day breakfast menu.

The interior of Adate, where you can sip coffee and purchase vintage tea sets.

The interior of Adate, where you can sip coffee and purchase vintage tea sets.

A serene room at the Hotel St. George.

A serene room at the Hotel St. George.

A table at Levain Bakery & Eatery.

A table at Levain Bakery & Eatery.

ANDATE

Fredrikinkatu 20, 00120

Sip tea or coffee while browsing a collection of vintage teacups, available for purchase.

BRONDA

Eteläesplanadi 20, 00130, ravintolabronda.fi

Located next to the entrance to Esplanadi Park, this Michelin-rated restaurant combines the flavors and cooking methods of French, Italian and Spanish cuisine. The menu includes prix fixe or à la carte options, and they serve delicious breads from their sister restaurant, Levain Bakery.

YES YES YES

Iso Roobertinkatu 1, 00120, yesyesyes.fi

This vegetarian and vegan restaurant boasts an impeccably designed interior in shades of soft pink and mint green. The menu offers light snacks like zucchini feta nuggets with lemon chili yogurt and heartier dishes like risotto with tellicherry pepper and parmesan.

Design

Everywhere you look in Helsinki, you’ll encounter incredible design, whether in the form of a restaurant with a sublime color palette or a boutique outfitted with a unique cork light fixture. While there are interesting spaces all over the city, the majority are clustered around a few particular streets like Fredrikinkatu, Uudenmaankatu and Eerikinkatu. Here are a few of our favorites that are so packed with tempting treasures, you may need to buy an extra suitcase.

Ceramic vessels at Hotel St. George.

Ceramic vessels at Hotel St. George.

LOKAL AND LOKAL KOLLEKTION

Annankatu 9, 00120, lokalhelsinki.com

Equal parts gallery, café and shop, Lokal is a perfect place to familiarize yourself with Finnish ceramicists and artists. Here you’ll find things like the daintiest wooden sugar spoons from Erin Turkoglu, vases with a lava-like texture from Natalie L., and a whole range of other intriguing objects, from powder pink espresso cups to handcrafted jewelry. A few doors down you’ll find LOKAL KOLLEKTION, their new outpost, which carries a curated selection of items for the home like tiny bowls and spoons made from birch bark and frosted pastel drinking glasses.

KAUNISTE

Fredrikinkatu 24, 00120,

Now celebrating their 10th anniversary, Kauniste sells textiles in colorful prints alongside small ceramic objects, scented linen sprays and charming tea towels.

NIDE BOOKSTORE

Fredrikinkatu 35, 00120, nidekauppa.fi A must for all the print lovers out there who delight in spending hours combing through art and interior design books. The shop also sells a variety of magazines from around the world.

JOHANNA GULLICHSEN

Erottajankatu 1, 00130,

Finnish designer Johanna Gullichsen is known for her woven textiles and soft goods made with natural materials in soothing patterns to complement both modern and traditional interiors.

DESIGN MUSEUM

Korkeavuorenkatu 23, 00130, designmuseum.fi

In 2012, Helsinki was dubbed the World Design Capital, and rightfully so. Every pocket of the city is brimming with expertly designed spaces and objects. The Design Museum is a must-see for visitors who want to explore both its past and present, from fashion to furniture and interiors.

A Culture Walk

Pastel-colored buildings add to the charm of the city.

Pastel-colored buildings add to the charm of the city.

A sweet bun at Levain Bakery & Eatery.

A sweet bun at Levain Bakery & Eatery.

The majestic Helsinki Cathedral perched on the hill.

The majestic Helsinki Cathedral perched on the hill.

Since Helsinki isn’t too overwhelming in size, you’ll have time to visit many of its cultural sites while shopping and eating your way around town. From the Hotel St. George, head towards ESPLANADI PARK, a green promenade situated near the more commercial shopping district of the city. This leafy thoroughfare is an ideal spot to just sit on a bench and people watch or relax by a trickling fountain. Continue from there to the MARKET SQUARE, an open cobblestoned area next to the marina where vendors sell seasonal produce and knick-knacks and boats embark for the surrounding islands. Next, make your way to the newly restored OLD MARKET HALL, built in 1889, where you’ll find delicacies like smoked fish and tempting pastries. Stop by Story for a light bite and be sure to grab a seat by the window to enjoy waterfront views. From there, walk farther inland to SENATE SQUARE, an expansive plaza surrounded by neoclassical architecture, including the magnificent HELSINKI CATHE- DRAL. End a day of sightseeing at the KAMPPI CHAPEL OF SILENCE, a multi-faith oratory with an intriguing windowless wooden design, which provides a bit of solace right in the city center.

The Old Market Hall, which is home to Story.

The Old Market Hall, which is home to Story.