Eleuthera - The Definition of Freedom

ELEUTHERA

The Definition of Freedom

Harbour Island Welcome

By: Keesha Claudia Bethell Photographs Courtesy Of Brent Turnquest, Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments and Aviation and L. Roscoe Dames II

We haven’t been on a vacation since 2020 when COVID-19 became a pandemic. Nationwide lockdowns meant travel and, in some cases, leaving our home were out of the question. Thankfully, things have changed, and we have freedom to

travel—the only question was, “Where should we go?” To celebrate our liberation from lockdowns, Up and Away decided

to visit the “Island of Freedom”—Eleuthera.

Located sixty miles east of New Providence, Eleuthera, or, as locals call it, “Lutra”, is 210 miles of coastline and just over one mile wide. There’s so much to see—pink-white beaches, picturesque harbours, bluffs, cliffs, sheltered coves, caves—and the list goes on.

Our decision to rent a jeep was perfect because it meant that no road or surface was off-limits. We travelled through small towns, also called settlements, soaking in every bit of Eleuthera freedom.

In the north, we boarded ferries to visit Harbour Island and Spanish Wells, then came back to the mainland where we stood in one spot to watch the beauty of two bodies of water collide.

In Central Eleuthera, we ate the juiciest and sweetest pineapples. In the south, we travelled through lush greenery which ultimately led us to one of Mother Nature’s most beautiful and unsuspecting gems at the very tip of the island.

We travelled there by plane via Bahamasair, which flies to all three airports on the island: North Eleuthera Airport, Governor’s Harbour Airport and Rock Sound Airport.

Up and Away explored the island from top to bottom, so, naturally, we started our adventure of freedom from North

Eleuthera Airport. There’s much to see and eat on an island the length of Eleuthera. It wasn’t easy, but we managed to put together a list of things to see and do for you to find your freedom.

HARBOUR ISLAND AND SPANISH WELLS

Spanish Wells - Cottage On The Waterfront

Harbour Island On The Waterfront

Harbour Island

Harbour Island was our first stop—or should we say ferry ride? We drove one mile from North Eleuthera Airport to Three Islands Dock. There, we parked our jeep and paid a one-way $5 fee to board a ferry boat. Seven minutes later, we cruised into the Nantucket of the Caribbean. Once we set foot on Briland (as islanders call it), we rented a golf cart to navigate the narrow roads of the three-mile-long island.

Although Briland is small, there is a lot to take in. It’s a quaint, seaside town, with pastel-coloured New England-style homes lining its streets, set amongst white picket fences and tropical flowers. It was like being in a whole new world of beauty and tranquillity. When we were done driving, we went horseback riding on the beach. Picture it: riding along a three-mile-long powdery pink sand beach, against the cool island breeze with a backdrop of crystal blue waters. For us, three words came to mind: “inhale”, “exhale”, “freedom”.

Spanish Wells - Sightseeing By Boat

Spanish Wells

Like Harbour Island, Spanish Wells is only accessible by ferry boat. We took the ferry back to Three Islands Dock, jumped into our jeep and took a ten-mile drive to Gene’s Bay. We parked, paid the one-way $5 fee, and seven minutes later, arrived at our destination.

Spanish Wells is a quiet town nestled among groves of palm trees on St. George’s Cay. The Cay is about four to five miles long and includes Russell Island, which is connected by bridge. To explore the cay in its entirety, we used three modes of transportation: foot, boat and golf cart.

We used our feet to walk in the town area. We strolled onto 12th Street and into Budda’s—a three-in-one shop offering meals, wines and spirits, as well as branded souvenirs. Locals told us to try the burgers, so we ordered one of each: Pine Burger, Jack Daniel’s Burger, Chicken Caesar Burger and the Slurger Burger. We washed it all down a little later with a case of Bahamian-brewed beers. But we’ll get to that further down in our adventure story. Pairing any of Budda’s burgers with a Kalik or Sands beer is an exquisite combination. Somehow, the beers were extra refreshing when we poured them into our Budda branded tumblers. To top off our experience at Budda’s, we bought some clothing. Perhaps our favourite one was the “I got dizzy at Budda’s” T-shirt.

By boat, we went cliff diving, swam with turtles, and plunged into the turquoise blue waters with the help of rope swings.

We also snorkelled around a shallow and jagged-edge reef, extending across the northern end of Eleuthera, about 1.4 miles northeast of Spanish Wells, called Devil’s Backbone. For some boat captains, it may not be the nicest area to navigate. Devil’s Backbone is said to have ripped the bottom out of more vessels than any other reef in The Bahamas.

For us, it was a snorkeler’s paradise offering the tranquillity of underwater adventure. During our dive, we encountered a marine world filled with snapper, grunts, parrotfish, angelfish, stingrays, and moray eels among the elkhorn, star and brain coral formations.

At Devil’s Backbone, there was also a sense of history. Surrounding us were rusty anchors embedded in the coral from many ill-fated ships dating back more than 300 years.

Out of all the adventures we had, perhaps the one we enjoyed the most was our party on the bar. You may be thinking about a bar as in a place to buy alcohol. But in this case, we’re talking about a sandbar.

Back on St. George’s Cay, we walked down 10th Street to Spanish Wells Beach. Word to the wise: use Google to make sure you go during low tide. At the beach, there was a massively beautiful sandbar to our left. It seemed to be endless, disappearing into the blue skies. We rolled out our towels, ate our grub from Budda’s and toasted to freedom with our Bahamian beers. Of course, our bar party ended when the tide started to rise, but the experience was epic.

From Spanish Wells, we went back to the dock and caught the ferry back to North Eleuthera to begin our adventure on the mainland.

NORTH ELEUTHERA

Glass-Window-Bridge

Glass Window Bridge

The magnificent panoramic view is a sight to behold and has been dubbed the “narrowest place on Earth”. Two bodies of water are separated by a strip of rock just 30-feet wide. It’s one of the few places on Earth where you can compare the deep blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean on one side of the bridge and the calm Exuma Sound (Caribbean Sea) on the other. The extraordinary contrast between the two sides is stunning.

Queen’s Bath

Queen’s Bath

Also known as the “Hot Tubs”, Queen’s Bath is located 0.6 miles south of Glass Window Bridge on the Atlantic Ocean side. Our visit was during low and medium tide, while the Atlantic Ocean was calm. With the sun blazing above us, the crystal clear water glistened as we soaked in the warm bath-like tidal pool.

Sweeting’s Pond

For environmentalists, and just lovers of marine life, this spot is sure to pique your interest. Picture it: one of the “most unusual and heavily populated communities of seahorses on the globe” lives in that pond. Sweeting’s Pond is 1.5 km wide, 2.5 km long and about thirteen metres deep.

Biologically, it’s a landlocked lagoon invisibly connected to the ocean. Don’t believe us? Take a dive to appreciate its uniqueness. While you’re down there, examine the shallow borders of the lake and golden algae beds. It won’t be long before you notice a seahorse in your peripheral view. Once one emerges, before you know it, you’ll be surrounded by them. The unique ecosystem is also home to ocean creatures such as: giant crabs and clams, and you may see the tentacles of an octopus, too!

CENTRAL ELEUTHERA

Governor’s Harbour

Eleuthera Pineapple

Lady Di’s Pineapple Farm

Eleuthera is known around the world for its pineapples. To get a taste, we visited the “Lady of the Pineapple Farms” also known as “Lady Di’”. Lady Di knows her pineapples and has been farming them since 1974. The rich clay Eleuthera soil and Lady Di’s expertise, topped with her jovial personality, gave us the sweetest experience. When she peeled our pineapples, they looked like loaves. When we ate the pineapple chunks, it was like eating sugar. It’s no wonder they call a pineapple from her field “sugarloaf”.

If you love pineapples, be sure to attend the Pineapple Festival. The annual festival is held in the settlement of Gregory Town during the Bahamian Labour Day weekend (the first weekend in June). There is lots to enjoy for pineapple lovers including the Pineapple Eating Contest, Pineapple Cooking Contest, Old Time Pineapple Crazy Sports and much more.

In the 1600’s, English Puritan Adventurers (now referred to as Eleutheran Adventurers) and led by William Sayle, fled the Caribbean Island of Bermuda in search of religious freedom. The group was shipwrecked at Devil’s Backbone Reef and took refuge on the island in a cave. An altar was built in the cave and the island’s first religious service was held—hence the name Preacher’s Cave. It is said that Eleutheran Adventurers established the first democracy for the western world on the island of Eleuthera.

Preacher’s Cave

If you’re a history lover, this stop is for you. Located two miles east of Gene’s Bay, on the north shores of Eleuthera, and ten miles from North Eleuthera Airport, this cave is an historic site.

The placard at the entrance of the cave tells a summary of its history. It reads: “William Sayle shipwrecked at Devil’s Backbone found refuge here. Sermons held 100 years.” Cupid’s Cay

Governor’s Harbour and Cupid’s Cay

Driving into Central Eleuthera, we made our way into Governor’s Harbour—the capital of Eleuthera—which is also the centre of commerce and government business offices in the district. The capital got its name because the first seat of government was established there. It’s also where Captain William Sayle established the first settlement in The Bahamas at Cupid’s Cay and was also the location of the first U.S. Consulate.

Levy Preserve Entrance

Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve

Immerse yourself in the outdoors of Bahamian nature in a bird hotspot at Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve—a 30-acre, world-class, botanic garden in Governor’s Harbour. It’s also the first and only national park on the island. The preserve placed us in a garden of lush native and endemic Bahamian plants. While there, we found traditional bush medicine, a facility for the propagation of indigenous plants and trees, as well as an educational centre focusing on the importance of native vegetation to the biodiversity of The Bahamas. With the help of a park warden, we were able to explore boardwalks and trails.

Tippy’s Restaurant & Beachside Bar

Bon Apetit describes it as the place where you’ll find some of the island’s best food. USA Today calls it “one of the best beach-bar restaurants you will find anywhere”. The New York Times describes it as “the epicentre of the island’s emerging social whirl”. We had to try it for ourselves—the reviews were spot on. Located in Governor’s Harbour, Tippy’s Restaurant & Beachside Bar left quite the impression on our team. It’s the perfect place to wine and dine while being drawn in by the beauty of Bahamian waters. Live music on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays add to the Tippy experience, making for chill vibes.

Buccaneer Club Restaurant

At this hillside 19th century farmhouse-turned-restaurant, Up and Away enjoyed a scrumptious meal at this Governor’s Harbour spot. We savoured native and Jamaican-Chinese fusion dishes in the outdoor dining area surrounded by the aroma of a garden of bougainvillea and hibiscus, overlooking the harbour. After lunch, we took a short leisurely stroll to the beach and jumped in for a warm afternoon swim in the sea.

Island Farm

Island Farm

Driving farther south, we arrived at a settlement called Palmetto Point to find The Island Farm. This place is proof in the pudding that Eleuthera soil is rich enough to grow more than “sugarloaf”. It’s nearly ten acres of land filled with local produce which includes: cassava, papaya, hot peppers, bananas, pigeon peas, cabbage, carrots, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. The Farm also produces native jams and jellies, and fresh baked bread. For those who love gardening, Island Farms has lots of nursery plants, too.

SOUTH ELEUTHERA

Seaside Breeze Restaurant and Bar

No trip to a Bahamian island is authentic without a serving of conch salad.

Picture it: the settlement of Tarpum Bay, “home of the ocean swings and Seaside Breeze Restaurant and Bar Swing hammocks, and good ol’ fashion Bahamian hospitality”. Now, add the visual of sitting on the bay enjoying a delicious bowl of conch salad while watching a sunset so beautiful that the best filters on your cell phone could never come close to capturing its essence. Need we say more?

Ocean Hole

Ocean Hole

The famous ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau is said to have explored Ocean Hole. The Frenchman is recognized in international history books and credited for his contribution to oceanography. Cousteau helped invent the diving saucer and underwater cameras. His extensive work even earned him the U.S. Presidential Medal of Freedom.

Up and Away figured that if Ocean Hole attracted Cousteau, it had to be a must-see for us.

Located in the settlement of Rock Sound, the body of water sits in Ocean Hole Park. It is a large inland saltwater lake, often referred to as a bottomless blue hole, with a rich ecosystem swarming with tropical fish. The blue hole is connected to the Atlantic Ocean and rises and recedes with ocean tides.

We sat on the miniature stone wall and enjoyed the shade and cool breeze under coconut and sea grape trees surrounding the area.

Cathedral Cave

Cathedral Cave

Having the words “cathedral” and “cave” come together was enough to make us curious. Located behind Boiling Hole, Cathedral Cave was quite an adventure. Using a wooden ladder, we entered the cave from the top. When we got to the bottom, surrounding us were the roots of trees on top of the cave cascading downward. Rays of light from the sun peeked through the ceiling and warmed our skin. Cathedral Cave gave such a solemn feeling that we paused in reverence to take in the magnificence of Mother Nature.

Boiling Hole

Boiling Hole

Boiling Hole sits in front of Cathedral Cave. Its name comes from the gas building up at the bottom and bubbling to its surface. It is small, the water is stagnant, and we were told that swimming in it was not recommended—to which we obliged. The sight of it was intriguing. We stood there for what seemed to be an eternity just watching the bubbles form.

Frigates Bar & Grill

Frigates Bar and Grill

This seaside jewel’s motto: “You hook em; we cook em” said it all. We drove to this Rock Sound spot where we were able to sit back, relax and sip on beverages of “high spirits”. Eating our fresh seafood dinner on a wooden deck, decorated with strands of white lights, all while watching the sunset over Eleuthera waves … we’d say that was the perfect island cooldown.

Lighthouse Point

Lighthouse Beach

From Rock Sound, we continued to drive south until we got to the southern tip of the island at Bannerman Town. In Bannerman Town, we drove down a rugged dirt road which led us to one of the most beautiful and undiscovered beaches in The Bahamas—Lighthouse Beach. The beach is known for its endless miles of blush-rose sand beach and is nestled in the heart of a massive rock structure behind sand dunes. On one side of the beach, we discovered hidden caves and went shelling. On the other side, we sunk ourselves into the powder-soft sand and took in magnificent views.

Returning to the Norm with Freedom on Our Minds

Our trip to “Lutra” opened our minds from a state of lockdown and quarantine to the state of mind we needed to face the new realities of our busy lives. There’s a saying: “Freedom is a state of mind.” For Up and Away, you just need the right environment to make that mind shift. For us, the ideal environment is Eleuthera. Try it for yourself. We’re sure you’ll agree. UA