WINES OF THE TERRA ALTA

Since I discovered the small Catalan DO (denominacion de origen) wine region of Terra Alta I have rarely been disappointed by their wines, only surprised that they are not as widely known as they deserve. Terra Alta, as its name implies, is a highland region in the extreme south of Catalonia, with Aragon to its east and comes to within a few kilometres of the Communidad de Valencia in the south. The main town is Gandesa which boasts a

The vineyards are mainly at an altitude of around 400 metres, providing excellent microclimate opportunities. Though not quite the onshore sea breezes; not quite the highest from

the freshness that altitude brings..

The star of Terra Alta’s grape varieties is Garnacha (Garnatxa in Catalan) in its white, red and hairy (really) form. Garnacha makes up more than half of Terra Alta’s grape production; Syrah, Macabeo and Muscat and other varieties are also grown. The climate is a mixture of Mediterranean and Continental resulting in long hot dry summers and cold winters. Rainfall is low at 400mm per annum and the Mestral from the River Ebro valley, a dry wind, keeps the humidity low and therefore protects the vines from disease.

Picasso was very much inspired by the landscapes of Terra Alta and depicted the landscape over several summers. His paintings are a perfect introduction to what shapes the region’s terroir. Patchworks of vineyards dominated by rock formations, picturesque mountain villages and undulating rivers making up the lovely scenic countryside, the most important being the River Ebro on its final stretch before reaching the sea. Vines have been cultivated in Terra Alta since Roman times. In the Middle Ages the Knights Templar planted vines. During the 19th century the vinos rancios from Terra Alta such as Amber

Blanc achieved great fame. However the area was devastated by the phylloxera bug in common with most of Spain and France. The current vineyards were replanted between 1920 and 1950 by grafting onto American rootstock as the local new co - operatives were created. The DO and its Regulatory Council were created in 1972 with their headquarters in the town of Gandesa.

A selection of leading winemakers and bodegas in Terra Alta would include the following:

BARBARA FORES. Boasting a long wine growing tradition, this family has been pioneering modern wines in the area since the 1994 vintage. The entire production of around 70,000 bottles is still handled in the ancient cellars of the family house in the centre of Gandesa. Their Garnatxa Blanca has long been a benchmark in the area. De Vins stock their wines.

CELLER PINOL. This is one of the region’s most most notable historic producers with manager Juanjo Galcera Pinol representing the fourth generation. He started with his mother in 1995 vintage. The family owns 70 hectares of vineyards and produces around 400,000 bottles. Their best known wine is L’Avi Arrufi.

EDETARIA . This is a family-owned bodega in Gandesa run by Joan Angel Lliberia who returned home to work the family vineyards and started a project of considerable size. The vineyard consists of 35 hectares of their own and 15 rented. They are working towards organic farming and they hope to have the certification in three year’s time. De Vins are stocking some of their wines.

HERENCIA ALTES. Despite its recent foundation in 2013 this is one of the most ambitious and successful projects in Terra Alta. Set up by Nuria Altes who was born into a local winegrowing family and a UK born businessman, Rafael de Haan. They now have over 30 hectares of old vineyards and have a state-of-the-art winery in Gandesa. Their range features nine different wines, most of which use local grapes. De Vins stock a wide range of their wines.

GANDESA CO-OPERATIVE. With 128 members working 800 hectares of vines the winery currently produces 300,000 bottles of wine per annum. Toni Coca started consulting for the co-operative five years ago and a whole range of wines has been re - vamped. The Cooperative building was designed by Cesar Martinell, a pupil of Gaudi, in the early 20th century.

MORE NOTABLE BODEGAS WHICH I SHOULD MENTION ARE:

• Cellar Frisach owned by the 28 year old Fransesc Ferre Frisach whose wines are making a name for his winery.

• Lafou Celler run by a young entrepreneur Ramon Roqueta whose wines are stocked at De Vins and Enrique Penalver

• Xavier Clua who produces around 85,000 bottles a year.

Do seek out these Terra Alta wines. They are not expensive for what they are. They show a purity and individuality which sets them apart from the more everyday Spanish wines.

HERE ARE MY AUGUST RECOMMENDATIONS:

Tintos

MERCIA ALTES, CUPATGE NEGRE, GARNACHA, CARINENA, SYRAH 2021 TERRA ALTA 14.5% ABV DE VINS 7.95 €

Dark ruby with a ripe dark fruit nose. Rich fruit, plums and blackberries. Some power with good balance and harmonious tannins and a hint of pepper rounded with a long finish. HIghly recommended for the price. Good with red meat.

HERENCIA ALTES, LA PELUDA, HAIRY GARNACHA, 2016, TERRA ALTA. 15% ABV, DE VINS 12.5 €

Very dark indeed with a big nose. Very spicy in the mouth with a nice ripeness and savoury tannins beginning to soften and a hint of port. A long big finish. Good with meat and stews.

MASSALUCA, GARNACHA AND CARINENA (SANSO) 2020, BODEGAS

RAMON ROQUETA , TERRA ALTA, 14% ABV DE VINS 7,95 €

Deep cherry in colour with an intense ripe fruit nose. Good ripe fruits with hints of vanilla and chocolate. Quite complex and mid to full bodied with a long finish. Good with roasts.

Rosado

TORRES DE CASTA ROSADO 2022, GARNACHA, CATALUNYA 13% ABV, VEGAN. EROSKI AND WIDELY AVAILABLE 5.40 € Pink with a hint of orange, lovely dry fruity nose. Lovely garnacha rosado, fruity, dry and quite complex.Pomegranates, well balanced with good acidity, not sweet but well made with a good finish. Good as an aperitif and with fish and tapas.

Blanco

HERENCIA ALTES GARNACHA BLANCA 2021 TERRA ALTA 13% ABV DE VINS 7.95 €

Delicate pale green with white peach and melon nose. Good stone fruit flavour, peaches, greengages with a hint of citrus. Elegant and classy,good balance and fresh with a crisp clean finish. Highly recommended for what it is. Good with shellfish and grilled fish.

HERENCIA ALTES, LA IMPRUDENT, GARNACHA BLANCA 2021, 13% ABV VEGAN DE VINS 7.95 €

Vibrant green with a citrus nose, lemon and lime. Very crisp and pure, initially good balance and structure which opens up to more ripeness. Lime and white stone fruit, layered and great finish and length.. Great value, lovely wine. Would be good with oysters, other shellfish and delicate white fish.

Happy August drinking!