PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Fall 2024

Seconds, PLEASE

ANOTHER HELPING OF ARKANSAS FOOD STORIES

Food Hall of Fame Inductees

Talking Barbecue with Kat Robinson

The rebirth of Breckenridge

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322 Main St, Little Rock, AR samstap.com 501-263-2760

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A D V E R T I S E M E N T

Copper Grill Celebrates 5 Years Under New Ownership Dan Kovach, the owner of Copper Grill in downtown Little Rock, brings over three decades of experience to this dining spot at the base of the 300 Third Tower.

Originally from Connecticut, Kovach moved to Little Rock in the late 1990s and quickly worked his way up the ranks at riverfront favorite Cajun’s Wharf, where he eventually served as general manager for 15 years. “After we closed Cajun’s Wharf in 2019, the original owner, Mary Beth Ringgold, asked me

to come to Copper Grill to consult and, shortly after, asked if I would be interested in purchasing Copper Grill,” Kovach says.

Since acquiring the restaurant five years ago, Kovach has built on its reputation as a downtown hotspot.

“When it comes to the Copper Grill experience, there are an array of things that make us special and unique,” he says.

The menu showcases dishes made from scratch using locally sourced ingredients

whenever possible. While the happy hour crowd loves Copper Grill’s wide selection of appetizers, wines, and cocktails, dinner diners are drawn toward the prime aged filet, lobster and shrimp pasta, and bone-in pork chop, among other standout items. The restaurant also features a private event room that’s perfect for everything from intimate seated parties to larger gatherings with passed hors d’oeuvres. See menus, hours, and more information at coppergrilllr.com.

300 Third Tower #101 | Little Rock | 501.375.3333 | @coppergrilllr

CO N T E N T S

FEATURES | FALL 2024

21

13 40

Small Bites

WINNERS’ CIRCLE The Arkansas Food Hall of Fame’s latest inductees

29

Small Bites

FARM TO BOTTLE Origami Sake seeks to position the state as a leader in the industry

Small Bites

TASTES AROUND TOWN New and coming-soon additions to the Arkansas dining scene

33

Main Dish

COMING TOGETHER Chef Nathan Miller fosters community through food (and wine!) at BCW

37

Main Dish

VILLAGE PEOPLE Little Rock’s Breckenridge Village ushers in new options for flavorful fare

Main Dish

RIGHT ON ’CUE Food blogger Kat Robinson goes all in to tell the story of Arkansas barbecue

45

Be Seated

SERVING UP ADVICE Local caterers share their knowledge to inspire your next event

IN EVERY ISSUE

ON THE COVER

10

BON APPÉTIT From the Editor

Chopped beef sandwich at H.B.’s Bar-B-Q in Little Rock.

Photographed by Rett Peek. See page 40.

51

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE

54

LAST COURSE Get to know Kaila The Foodie

8 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Vol. 1, No. 2 of PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide was distributed digitally in November 2024 by Root Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

2024 | platedmag.com 9

B O N

A PPÉ T I T

FROM THE EDITOR

PLATED THE ARKANS AS D I NI NG GUIDE Publisher

Kelly Fraiser kelly@rootpublishing.com Editor in Chief

Where should we eat? It’s that worn-

out question we ask our partners and friends before dining out. We swap suggestions but lack inspiration; before we know it, we’re settled into the booth at one of our go-to spots. It’s fine, it’s a frequent choice for a reason— but then a friend mentions a new restaurant they tried and we say, We’ve been meaning to go there! We vow that next time, we’ll step outside our comfort zone.

Sound familiar? We all do it. Personally, my mind goes blank once the hunger sets in, and that makes it hard to remember all the places I’ve been so excited to try. And while I fully support patronizing your favorite locally owned restaurants frequently, it’s easy to miss out on the full diversity of Arkansas food when doing so.

So here’s your reminder to step out and try something new next time you’re asked, Where should we eat? I hope you’ll use this issue as a means to expand your horizons. Keep those old reliables in rotation, but make an effort to branch out every now and then—and tag us on social media (@plated.mag) when you do! We’re here to help spread the word about all there is to taste in The Natural State.

Stephanie Maxwell Newton stephanie@rootpublishing.com Managing Editor

Tiffany Adams tiffany@rootpublishing.com Online Editor

Laura LaRue laura@rootpublishing.com Advertising Art Manager

Taylor Evans taylor@rootpublishing.com Contributing Graphic Designer

Bailey Dougan Contributing Photographers

Bailey Dougan, Beth Hall, Jamie Lee, and Rett Peek Contributing Writers

Virginia Brown and Rebekah Hall Scott Account Manager

Laura Hilliard lhilliard@rootpublishing.com Account & Marketing Manager

Celeste Friedl Fall celeste@rootpublishing.com Billing

billing@rootpublishing.com

Cheers!

PLATED T HE A R KA N SA S DIN IN G G U IDE

Stephanie Maxwell Newton, Editor in Chief STEPHANIE@ROOTPUBLISHING.COM

SUBSCRIPTIONS TO AT HOME IN ARKANSAS

Call 818.286.3115 or email subscribe@athomearkansas.com for customer service.

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Attention restaurant owners! We’re so excited to announce

something new for 2025: An online directory of Arkansas dining options. It’s ambitious, we know—that’s why we need your help.

Visit platedmag.com/submit to share information about your restaurant, bar, or food truck. We look forward to helping you increase your reach to diners across the state!

10 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

For information about advertising in PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide, call 501.666.5510 or email kelly@rootpublishing.com.

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SMALL BITES DINING NEWS, FOOD HALL OF FAME + MORE

Scallops from the dinner menu at Junto Sushi in Bentonville.

TASTES AROUND TOWN Sink your teeth into restaurant news from across the state W R ITE R VIRGINIA BROWN PH OTOG R A PH E R BETH HALL Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 13

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Brunch at The Purple Cow Restaurant.

Junto Sushi From the owners of Indigo Road Hospitality Group comes JUNTO SUSHI , which opened in August in the new Motto by Hilton hotel in downtown Bentonville. Junto, a name that founders say refers to “the truth of things,” sources products from local purveyors like Spring Creek Food Hub and Grow NWA. “Guests are really enjoying the upscale but approachable dining experience,” says Anthony Szymanski, Director of Food & Beverage with Indigo Road Hospitality Group. “We saw this as a chance to create a unique culinary destination that complements the vibrant downtown scene.” Popular options so far include the Salmon Usuzukuri, a chef’s speciality with pickled wasabi, black volcano salt, chives, and truffle ponzu; the Whitefish Crudo, served with Yuzu kosho, citrus juice, pink salt, and micro cilantro; and the chef’s signature pork buns. Although known for sushi, Junto recently launched a brunch with an inventive fusion of Asian-inspired dishes and classic American favorites.

Standouts include the Motto Morning “Benedict,” with lump crab, miso hollandaise, and local greens served on a croissant; and Pork Belly Hash. For more information, visit juntosushi.com.

The Purple Cow Restaurant LIT TLE ROCK

Burger and shake lovers rejoice! Little Rock’s PURPLE COW RESTAURANT recently hosted a grand reopening of its original 1989 location on Cantrell Road, following devastating tornado damage in 2023. The beloved spot, modeled after a 1950s diner, is known for its half-pound, steak-knife burgers, hot dogs, chili dogs, shakes (namely its Famous Purple Vanilla), malts, and more. Blending nostalgia with something new, the Cantrell location’s interior features purple beams, a cow-print backsplash, and a fun take on the classic soda-bar look. The owners also plan to open a Benton location in early 2025. For menus and more information, visit purplecowlr.com.

14 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Photo by Tanja Heffner and courtesy of The Purple Cow Restaurant

B E N TO N V I L L E

in Magnolia

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Located in the heart of Fayetteville’s Historic Downtown Square 1 W Center Street, Fayetteville, AR 16 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

cheersopo.com

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Keeney's Village Store M A LV E R N

Joshua Garland, executive chef of DONS Southern Social and Best Café in Hot Springs, is breathing new life into KEENEY’S VILLAGE STORE , formerly Keeney’s Food Market, in Malvern. Originally opened by Charles “CK” Keeney (seen at right with his wife, Maurine) in 1956, Keeney’s has long-since served up homestyle meals and stood as an important community meeting place. With Garland’s fresh vision, Keeney’s will offer daily meatand-two-sides meals featuring down-home specials like meatloaf, catfish, lasagna, and fried chicken paired with a choice of fried okra, sidewinder fries, baked beans, cole slaw, mac and cheese, or other sides. Homages to the original owner include the CK Chicken Sandwich and CK’s Platter, featuring breakfast offerings. In addition to lunch, breakfast is also served daily and all day on Saturday. Visit keeneysvillagestore.com for hours and more information.

Smalls Sliders

Photos courtesy of Keeney’s Village Store and Smalls Sliders

J O N E SB O R O

SMALLS SLIDERS is former LSU basketball player and Walk-On's Bistreaux co-founder Brandon Landry's second restaurant concept. With 18 locations throughout the Southeast and 24 more scheduled to open in the near future, the rapidly growing franchise is gaining popularity for its menu focused on mini burgers and fries. Its first Arkansas location, which opened in October, is owned by David and Amber Kearby. The duo selected Jonesboro in part because it is home to Arkansas State University. “Bringing Smalls Sliders to the Jonesboro community is an exciting moment for us,” says Matt Crews, operations manager at the new location. Smalls specializes in cooked-to-order cheeseburger sliders topped with pickles, bacon, and more; seasoned waffle fries smothered in queso or its signature secret “Smauce;” and chocolate, vanilla, and cookies and cream milkshakes. Their modular building, known as “the Can,” is built from shipping containers, painted in a signature “Smorange” color, and dropped into place. Restaurants include a “slide-thru,” walk-up window, and dining patio. The couple plans to open six more locations across Arkansas and Missouri. Visit smallssliders.com/locations/jonesboro-ar for hours and more information.

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 17

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Southern Tail Brewing LIT TLE ROCK

Mezzaluna Pasteria & Mozzarella Bar B E N TO N V I L L E

California-based MEZZALUNA PASTERIA & MOZZARELLA BAR , known for its housemade daily pastas, mozzarella, and seasonal gelato flavors, expanded to Bentonville in August.

Since Mezzaluna opened its Carmel-by-theSea location in 2019, chef Soerke Peters has prioritized using fresh, local, and sustainable ingredients from nearby farms. “Bentonville felt like a natural fit for our second location, due to the city's evolving culinary landscape and commitment to supporting local and sustainable businesses,” Peters says. Popular dishes include the Rigatoni Alla Buttera—house-made rigatoni, pork sausage, English peas, cream, tomato, and garlic chili flakes—and Ravioli Di Spinaci, made with spinach, ricotta, wild mushrooms, and white wine garlic sauce. They’re also known for their mozzarella and gelato bars, the latter of which features rotating flavors like pistachio, chocolate, and hazelnut. Visit mezzalunapasteria. com for a full menu and other information.

18 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Sheep’s milk pimento cheese at The Stonebreaker.

The Stonebreaker FAY E T T E V I L L E

THE STONEBREAKER , the restaurant and bar that’s part of a new boutique hotel with the same name, opened in Fayetteville's Markham Hill in October.

“This has been an exciting journey, from crafting a menu that showcases not just technical skill but also deep passion for ingredients, to building a team that shares the same commitment to excellence,” says executive chef Tyler Rogers. “I’m eager to create an engaging dining experience that sparks joy, curiosity, and connection.” Rogers calls the menu a labor of love, adding that it pays tribute to the terroir and traditions of the region while adapting global, and even forgotten, cooking techniques to showcase seasonal flavors. Small bites include the whipped Sheep’s Milk Pimento with onion preserve and sourdough, plus a signature cornbread with Bansley’s ham, house kimchi, and apple butter.

Scallops, lamb, roasted chicken, pasta dishes, and an elevated burger round out the mains. “We’ve taken great care to source the freshest ingredients, most of which are locally grown here in Arkansas, to bring you dishes that are not only delicious but also sustainable and supportive of our local community,” he adds. Visit stonebreakerhotel.com for more information.

There is so much happening in the Arkansas food scene, and this round-up barely scratches the surface. Do you have news about a restaurant opening or an update to share? Let us know! Email plated@rootpublishing.com or tag us on Instagram and Facebook (@plated.mag).

Photo courtesy of The Stonebreaker

Owners Brent and Tracy Cryder opened SOUTHERN TAIL BREWING in September in Little Rock’s East Village. Featuring events like Oktoberfest and beer yoga, Southern Tail aims to become a go-to hub for good beer and a close-knit, dogloving community. Brews range from a crisp American lager to a hoppy IPA, English Bitter, and coffee- and chocolateinfused stout. In line with their inventive spirit, the brewery also features an “experimental” menu with a gluten-free option and a curry pale ale. Blend any brew with items from the robust food menu, like the Panko-fried Arkansas Riceotto Balls, made with Arkansas rice, corn, peppers, and smoked gouda, plus salads, hot dogs, corn dogs, burgers, and other hearty mains. Not a beer lover? Southern Tail also offers sodas, mocktails, ciders, and a wine menu. For more information, visit southerntailbrewing.com

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THE VENUE AT WESTWIND, NLR Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 19

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Photos by Beth Hall (Tusk & Trotter, Herman’s Ribhouse), courtesy of Mark Abernathy (Abernathy and President Clinton), and courtesy of the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Seven organizations from around the state celebrate induction into the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame W R I T E R STEPHANIE MAXWELL NEWTON

In 2016, the Division of Arkansas Heritage launched the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame to recognize culturally significant eateries, events, and restaurateurs for their contributions to the state’s culinary landscape. While the honors offer winners and finalists endless bragging rights, it’s also a means to educate Arkansans on the state’s diverse—and delicious—food culture.

For the 2024 awards, nominations were open to the public in February and reviewed by a committee of food historians, writers, chefs, and leaders from the Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism. Thirty-two finalists were announced in May and, from those, seven winners were formally inducted at an awards ceremony on September 30.

Read on to learn more about the 2024 winners.

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 21

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Proprietor of the Year

Q: YOUR MENU BOASTS A MIX OF LOW-BROW FAVORITES AMONG MORE GOURMET FLAVOR COMBINATIONS. WHERE DO YOU TURN FOR INSPIRATION?

A: The biggest inspiration for me in creating the menus for Tusk & Trotter is working with our farmers and ranchers to see what will be available for the upcoming season. I’m always collaborating with our Tusk team in the development of the menu and trying to showcase what’s local and fresh from the High South region.

Q: HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT BEING NAMED PROPRIETOR OF THE YEAR?

A: Being put into the Food Hall of Fame is a huge honor, not just for me but for the entire Tusk family. It’s not just one person that makes Tusk & Trotter successful— it’s most definitely a team effort!

Q: WHY DO YOU THINK IT’S IMPORTANT FOR ARKANSAS TO CELEBRATE ITS HERITAGE AND CULTURE WITH A FOOD HALL OF FAME?

A: Our state has such an amazing history when it comes to the diversity of its people and the traditions we share across different regions. The Natural State has such an interesting story to tell, and it’s extremely important for groups like the Division of Heritage to be that storyteller so future generations know how this all started and where we are headed when it comes to our culture, community, food, and agriculture.

Q: WHAT’S NEXT FOR TUSK & TROTTER?

A: We opened a second location in downtown Rogers in September. The menu does have some differences from the Bentonville location to keep it fun and also show off more local products; for example, we’re using as much as we can from the Rogers Farmers Market.

But our mission is still the same, which is telling our story of High South cuisine.

Q: ANY OTHER UPCOMING PROJECTS?

A: We opened our first barbecue

joint in October. It’s called Brothers Meethouse—yes, spelled meethouse— to let everyone know this is a gathering place. It’s a place to hang out and enjoy Arkansas barbecue, music of the region, and each other’s company. We are located in the Bentonville Market District across the street from The Momentary.

Gone but not forgotten This award honors an establishment whose legacy has continued to impact the food scene in the state long after the doors to the restaurant closed. This year’s honor was bestowed to Little Rock restaurateur Mark Abernathy on behalf of Juanita’s.

Before there was SoMa, there was Juanita’s. Opened in 1986, Mark Abernathy’s first Little Rock restaurant was an ode to the Tex Mex cuisine he’d come to love during his time living and working in San Antonio. Soon the restaurant became as much a topic of conversation for its live music lineup and well-known clientele as it was for its menu. “The national food culture has changed so much since I started in the industry over 55 years ago,” Mark says, citing the ways food shows on TV and the Internet have inspired young chefs to find and nurture a love of cooking. “In 1972, TGI Fridays was the first public place to get a mixed drink in Arkansas. And you could count the good restaurants in town on one hand.” What does Mark think made Juanita’s such a special place for so many people? “Real atmosphere, real Tex-Mex, and the best live music in the country.”

22 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Photos by Beth Hall (Rob Nelson) and courtesy of MHP.SI

This award honors a chef, cook, or restaurant owner who has made a significant impact on the food industry in Arkansas. The 2024 Proprietor of the Year is Rob Nelson of Tusk & Trotter American Brasserie, which opened in Bentonville in 2011.

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 23

kaspersclarksville.com

111 W Markham St, Little Rock, AR 72201 • Wine Cellar Private Dining 501-725-0673 • capitalhotel.com 24 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

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ARKANSAS FOOD HALL OF FAME

Photos by Beth Hall (Herman’s Ribhouse) and courtesy of the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame

This award recognizes long-standing restaurants that are widely considered to have influenced food culture in the state. In 2024, Doe’s Eat Place, The Faded Rose, and Herman’s Ribhouse were the Food Hall of Fame’s newest inductees.

After years crossing the Mississippi River to dine on steak and tamales at DOE’S EAT PLACE in Greenville, Mississippi, George Eldridge contracted the name and menu to be able to open his own Little Rock-based location of the Delta destination in 1988. Twelve years ago his daughter, Katherine Eldrige, assumed ownership.

Q: WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR EARLIEST MEMORIES OF DOE’S EAT PLACE?

A: I remember how excited people were that we were bringing a Doe’s to Little Rock. We’ve added some menu items but, for the most part, we’ve tried to keep it the same since then. Consistency is key. The quality of meat that we serve and our number one chef, David Brown, have all been here almost from the very beginning.

Q: WHY DO YOU THINK IT’S IMPORTANT FOR ARKANSAS TO CELEBRATE ITS HERITAGE AND CULTURE WITH A FOOD HALL OF FAME?

A: Food plays a very important role in people's lives. It’s not just something we need to survive, but it’s how we celebrate the good times and how we comfort ourselves during the bad times. We get to watch our customers celebrate birthdays, weddings, promotions, and small milestones. We have also hosted dinners for families after the death of a loved one. So I think it’s very important that we celebrate these food establishments that have been so important in people's lives.

What an honor to be able to serve Arkansas for 36 years and now be a member of the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame!

Laurie and Ed David founded The Faded Rose in Little Rock in 1982. A New Orleans native, Ed developed his restaurant’s menu around authentic Cajun and Creole cuisine—think po’ boys, gumbo, and étouffée—alongside steaks, burgers, and a now-famous soaked salad. The Faded Rose is a springtime favorite for fresh-fromLouisiana boiled crawfish by the pound, as well as its nofrills interior decorated with political signs from campaigns past. Today, Laurie and Ed's son, Zac, helps lead the charge. "More than anything, it's cool for my dad to be able to see his hard work pay off," Zac says of the award. "It's a big deal for any restaurant in the state to be a part of the Food Hall of Fame, and we're proud and thankful."

Located on College Avenue in Fayetteville, Herman’s Ribhouse is as well-known for its status as a Razorback game-day hangout as it is for its legendary ribs. Now owned by Carrie and Nick Wright, the Herman’s name can be traced back to former owners Irene and Herman Tuck, who bought and renamed the restaurant in 1964.

According to the eatery’s website, that early rendition of Herman’s Ribhouse had just nine menu items—all barbecue, including racks of ribs. Nick started as a dishwasher in 1996 and moved up in 2000 before purchasing and running the restaurant full-time in 2012.

"The customers are the reason why we're here," Nick says. "Herman started something years ago that people continue to turn out for. It's not anything we do; all we can do is cook good food and provide good service. People keep coming back because they feel like it's their place."

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 25

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FOOD-THEMED EVENT This award honors one of the most vital aspects of food: Its ability to bring people together. Officially, the prize is given to a food-themed event “that has helped preserve a community’s unique food history.” This year, that event was the Mt. Nebo Chicken Fry in Dardanelle.

Photos (Rockefeller and The Browns) by Harold Gray; all courtesy of Mike Kiser

The Mt. Nebo Chicken Fry has celebrated “chicken, pickin’, and politickin’” in Yell County for 77 years. Sponsored by the Dardanelle Area Chamber of Commerce and Tyson Foods, the annual event’s schedule revolves around a Southern fried chicken dinner, live music, and games for all ages. “The competitiveness and good-natured fun at log-sawing, horseshoes, and other events is all part of it,” says Stacey Daughtrey, executive director of the Dardanelle Area Chamber of Commerce.

According to oral histories passed down in the region, the event got its start as a fish fry. Harold Snyder, a pioneer in the poultry industry, teamed up with local businessman Fred Burnett to add chicken to the event’s menu in 1948. As the festival grew, “the Chicken Fry became a huge political event, with politicians from across the state delivering speeches and shaking hands to garner support,” says Yell County resident Debbie Meek, whose paternal grandfather, “Stickney” Meek, was one of the original fish fry’s organizers. Though her father’s army career meant he was often stationed out of state, her family returned for the Mt. Nebo Chicken Fry as often as possible. “The Chicken Fry was the rallying point for an entire weekend of barbecues, horseback riding, great food, and frivolity,” she recalls. “For me, these were idyllic summers and are cherished memories—playing with the children of those families and three generations telling Nebo stories.”

From top: Winthrop Rockefeller speaking at the 1966 Mt Nebo Chicken Fry while campaigning for governor. 1960s Nashville family band The Browns performing at the Chicken Fry. Gov. Jim Guy Tucker with Mt. Nebo locals.

PEOPLE’S CHOICE Award While the other categories are chosen by the panel of judges, the People’s Choice award is voted on by the public. This year, Beech Street Bistro in Crossett, which Laura and Chester Huntsman opened in 2018, took home the prize.

Q: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE MENU AT BEECH STREET BISTRO?

A: It's a marriage of Creole, Cajun, and Southern, stick-to-your-ribs soul food.

From burgers to gator nachos to our “Me-Oh-My!” Crawfish Pie, we have the stuff that makes you want to come back for more.

26 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Q: TELL US A LITTLE MORE ABOUT YOUR ACTUAL RESTAURANT LOCATION.

A: We took an old clapboard house with a wide porch and turned it into a place where you leave feeling like you have just walked out of a New Orleans juke joint. We are definitely sitting in a residential area of town, which we have learned makes our guests feel at home!

Q: HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE NAMED TO THE ARKANSAS FOOD HALL OF FAME?

A: More often than not, Crossett is overlooked due to our location on the map—we are in the corner of Southeast

Arkansas, what some people may call “off the beaten path,” and literally less than 10 miles from the Louisiana state line. Folks in Crossett work hard to make sure we are kept on the map and not forgotten. When there is recognition, we treasure that. We cannot express enough how much we appreciate everyone who voted for us and continue to support Chester’s dream. The biggest “thank you,” however, goes to our amazing team at the Beech Street Bistro! It is always great to know that our Bistro continues to add flavor and a unique experience to the great state of Arkansas.

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Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 27

28 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

FARM TO BOTTLE

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Two friends go all in to position Arkansas as the sake capital of the country

W R ITE R VIRGINIA BROWN PH OTOG R A PH E R BAILEY DOUGAN

Ben Bell (left) and Matt Bell, founders of Origami Sake outside the brand’s Hot Springs brewing facility.

“You can take a humble grain of rice and make infinite sakes."

P

— M AT T B E L L , O R I G A M I S A K E

articular products conjure specific places. When it comes to bourbon, Kentucky is king, and California claims the most well-known wine region in the U.S., Napa Valley. Why wouldn’t Arkansas—the number one rice producer in the country—stake claim as the sake capital? That’s the goal of Arkansas natives Matt Bell and Ben Bell, founders of Origami Sake in Hot Springs.

Sharing a last name but no relation, Matt and Ben met in 2016 after Ben had returned from two years in Hanamaki, Japan, the sister city of Hot Springs. He received a sponsorship there to immerse himself in the brewing process at Nanbu Bijin, a longstanding sake producer. That

experience ignited a fire in him to bring the time-honored methods back home.

Meanwhile, Matt, a Little Rock native, was running a successful solar company following graduation from the University of Arkansas. He had no interest in sake until he met Ben and a story started to emerge about the Japanese drink and its uncanny connection to the pair’s home state.

At its most basic, sake demands quality water and rice—two things The Natural State has in spades.

“When I learned that, I thought, OK, this is more interesting, because at the time, I was not a big fan of sake; the sake I'd had before was not premium,” Matt says. “But I Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 29

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Origami Sake is served chilled in a wine glass and is more fruit-forward as opposed to drier, more bitter warm sakes.

started investigating further and found that premium sakes were a whole different experience.”

For Origami Sake’s water, they turned to Hot Springs’s famed Ouachita aquifer. “We tap into that water, and it requires virtually no treatment. Before we even bought our building, we tested it, and it’s perfect for sake. It’s softer with the correct pH level,” Matt says. Plus, the water is devoid of minerals like iron and manganese, menaces to the sake process.

As for rice, they discovered that Isbell Farms, located near England, Arkansas, about 80 miles from Hot Springs, was the first farm in North America to have grown Japanese sake

varieties of rice, like Koshihikari and Yamada Nishiki. The remaining complexities are left to head brewer and certified sakasho Justin Potts, a Pacific Northwest native who worked in Japanese breweries for 18 years and moved to Hot Springs for the venture.

In 2022, the team ran test batches and, in May 2023, they officially launched Origami, with a large-scale production facility and tasting room in Hot Springs. The name comes from the ancient Japanese art form of paper folding. “You can take a plain sheet of paper and make infinite 3D art forms,” Matt says. “The same is true for rice. You can take a humble grain of rice and make infinite sakes.” To this point, sake’s adaptable flavor makes it a perfect pairing for many menus. “Sake pairs better with food than wine. It has more flexibility, and the ability to make cocktails. We are pushing to get people to understand that,”he says. In addition to Japanese restaurants throughout the state, Origami can be found in places that don’t traditionally serve sake, such as burger restaurants and bars like Hill Station, Ciao Baci, and Hillcrest Fountain in Little Rock. The team is also looking to expand into pizza restaurants.

Today, Origami employs 17 people and has been featured in news outlets in the U.S. and in Japan. Currently exporting to nine states, they intentionally didn’t start small, but rather with the goal to create the largest domestically owned sake brewery in the U.S. “From Arkansas, let’s send products to the East Coast, the West Coast, and really scale,” Matt says. “We are the place where sake should be made and we’re going to tell that story.”

Great Food Cultivates Great Relationships WICKED MIX — An elegant appetizer of premium nuts, inclusions and sweet savory glaze to highlight a party or sooth the soul.

WICKED MINIS — Boldly seasoned oyster crackers for snacking, salad toppers, meal enhancers, and charcuterie boards.

moonlightmixes.com

30 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

R A DU N O LR .C O M

TH E FO LD LR .C O M

Book your next party at the East Side Scrap Yard: ESSY! 1416 E. 9th St. Little Rock, AR @eastsidescrapyard Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 31 501-725-8185

SERIOUS. BARBECUE.

LeBron James does basketball. Paul McCartney does music.

WE DO BARBECUE . . .

And just like them, we do it because we love it. But also just like them, we take it seriously. After competing nationally for more than 30 years, we opened our doors to the public in 2007. From the beginning you’ve told us over and over, “This is a completely different experience.” Well, that’s no accident. In North Little Rock, you’ll see the owners, boots on the ground, EVERY DAY to make sure it never stops feeling that way. We still use original sauces and recipes. We offer a sensational dry-rubbed rib daily, and beef ribs every Tuesday. Our meat is meticulously handrubbed, cured and slow-smoked — seriously. Planning a party or event? Let us help. There’s a reason Whole Hog North Little Rock caters more then 2,300 groups a year!

CLICK HERE FOR CATERING 32 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

WORLD CHAMPION BBQ 4333 Warden Road, North Little Rock, AR 72116 501.753.9227 | wholehogcafenlr.com

mAIN DISH FOOD SCENE FEATURES

The Standard grilled cheese sandwich is a go-to for first-timers. It features cheddar, Cooper American, and swiss cheeses along with roasted tomatoes on brioche.

On chilly days, customers love to pair it with a cup of BCW’s tomato soup.

COMING TOGETHER Chef Nathan Miller combines his passion for cooking with creating community in his SoMa restaurant, Bread Cheese Wine—or as its friends know it, BCW W R I T E R T I F FA N Y A DA M S P H O T O G R A P H E R R E T T P EEK Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 33

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BCW’s smoked pork belly is basted in an apple cider gastrique then smoked in-house and set atop a sweet potato puree with pancetta dust and pickled fresno chiles.

This simple take on a gin and tonic adds beet juice, lemon juice, and a sprig of rosemary.

“What I love about almost all of our food is that it’s designed to be shared and enjoyed with friends.”

S

ince the age of 15, Nathan Miller can’t recall a time when he wasn’t somehow involved in the restaurant industry. From his initial start making gyros and fries at Blackwood’s Gyros & Grill in Conway to working for upscale establishments, including Mike’s Place, Brave New Restaurant, and YaYa’s Euro Bistro, he’s always been drawn to the catching energy of a well-operated dining room and the sense of controlled chaos that seems to bubble beneath the surface. Here, he shares a bit about his desire to bring this vibe to Little Rock’s SoMa neighborhood with a concept built on community, shared plates, and an extensive selection of accessible wines.

PLATED: WHAT DREW YOU TO THIS NEIGHBORHOOD? HAD YOU BEEN CONSIDERING OPENING A RESTAURANT HERE? NATHAN MILLER: I was working on the sales side of the

34 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

— C H E F N AT H A N M I L L E R

business with a food vendor, and I realized how much I missed cooking and working in a restaurant. I was visiting a client across the street one day when I saw this space was available. I recognized the guy’s name on the real estate sign, called him up, and said I want to see it—just in case. I walked in, fell in love, and signed a lease the next month.

What drew me to SoMa in particular is the way it’s growing in terms of culture and personality. The restaurant scene feels like it is right on the verge of becoming something really, really special, and I wanted to be here when that happened.

PLATED: WHAT ABOUT THE CONCEPT FOR BCW? NM: I had a vague idea in my head but it was never fully fleshed out. I have always believed you can’t shoehorn the wrong concept into a space where it doesn’t make sense. So, it sounds corny, but when I stepped into this space and looked around, it told me what

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The bresola flatbread is a popular shareable selection. Bresola is a cured Italian beef tenderloin that is highlighted with roasted garlic, chimichurri, a balsamic reduction, and lemon zest here.

it needed to be. The timing also worked out so well with this spot becoming available and then getting the right people in place. We have been very lucky to have the staff we have.

PLATED: SO, WHAT CAME FIRST—THE WINE, THE CHEESE, OR THE BREAD? NM: Going back to the space, it started with the giant windows and the desire to bring some of the green you see outside indoors. That led to the wine concept. I’ve always been a wine person over cocktails or beer or anything else. I also felt that a lot of places play it safe with the wine list, and I’m the kind of person that if I go out and order wine, I want something I haven’t had before that is interesting and different.

From there, it became grilled cheeses, small plates, and shared plates because I wanted something that was approachable and simple to bring folks in without having them feel intimidated, like we were some fancy wine restaurant. It’s nicer food but in a beginner-friendly format.

PLATED: DO YOU HAVE ANY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS WE SHOULD TAKE? NM: Our sommelier, Erin Saunders, has been huge in developing our wine list. She and I both love to give suggestions‚ as do our servers. I think our wine flights are fun for first-time guests; then you don’t have to commit to

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“I’m so happy these beets have taken off; I’m a beet fanatic,” Nathan says, pointing to a small plate with roasted red beets, pickled golden beets, and whipped goat cheese on a bed of micro arugula with dustings of pistachio and lemon zest.

a full glass. We have eight different flights on the menu. For example, if you’re a cabernet fan, you can try four different options in the flight. One of the flights is called What Nathan Is Drinking, and it has my personal favorite wines of the moment. I’m really in love with South African wines right now like pinotages and chenin blancs. They are affordable and accessible but not your standard, everyday wines.

PLATED: AS BCW CELEBRATES ITS FIRST ANNIVERSARY, WHAT’S ON THE HORIZON? NM: In 2025 we are going to be doing a lot more happy hours and events. We'll continue our reverse happy hour on Fridays and Saturdays where we have specials on drinks and shareable plates from 9 p.m. to close. We’ll also be bringing in our resident DJ, Michael Shaeffer, for brunch every other week.

We really want BCW to become synonymous with a fun, vibrant place to be. We’ve become known for good service, good food, and good cocktails, but the next step up is to be the place you know you can go to relax with friends and have a good time.

Read on for the recipe for Nathan's Chorizo Hash, a hearty morning meal.

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 35

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Nathan’s Chorizo Hash Serves 4

SHOP 2 large sweet potatoes, diced ½ pound baby bella mushrooms, quartered 1 bunch kale, cleaned and trimmed 8 eggs, cooked any way you like Chorizo 1 pound ground pork 4 cloves fresh garlic, finely minced 1½ tablespoons ancho chili powder 1 tablespoon sweet paprika ½ tablespoon smoked paprika 1½ tablespoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons Mexican dried oregano ½ teaspoon coarse ground black pepper ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon coriander Hollandaise Sauce 5 egg yolks, separated juice from 1 large lemon 1 pound butter, clarified salt and pepper, to taste

PREPARE Preheat oven to 400˚F. Combine all chorizo ingredients (pork through coriander) in a large mixing bowl. Chill in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes; the longer the better. While chorizo is chilling, roast diced sweet potatoes in the oven for 5 minutes, then add mushrooms.

Cook another 5 minutes, add kale, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. Brown chorizo in a cast iron skillet until fully cooked.

Prepare hollandaise sauce by placing egg yolks and half the lemon juice in a blender. While blending, slowly pour in clarified butter until all is incorporated.

If sauce becomes too thick as you are adding butter, add a tiny bit of hot water.

The consistency should coat the back of a spoon. When finished, stir in remaining lemon juice and add salt and pepper.

Cook the eggs to your preference.

To assemble the dish, toss together sweet potato, mushrooms, kale, and chorizo. Top with cooked eggs and hollandaise sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

36 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

FIRST THINGS FIRST

Breakfast is Nathan’s favorite meal of the day. “When I’m home and have a half hour to make breakfast, this is what I make for myself,” he says. The simple yet flavorful bowl is a crowd-pleasing way to fill your belly before heading out for the day—and a staple that Nathan predicts will someday make its way to the BCW brunch menu.

BCW is located at 1424 S. Main St. in Little Rock’s SoMa neighborhood. Visit bcwlittlerock.com for hours and a full menu.

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VILLAGE PEOPLE A new generation of developers, owners, and restaurateurs seeks to continue the legacy of Little Rock’s Breckenridge Village through ample food offerings W R I T E R REBEK AH HALL SCOTT P H O T O G R A P H E R JAMIE LEE

TEAM EFFORT

Jim Keet (center) and sons Jake (left) and Tommy make up JTJ Restaurants LLC, the group behind Taziki's, Petit & Keet, Cypress Social, and more. They teamed up with the Kelley Group and the Bodnar Group to form KBK-Breck LLC which, along with financial partners Relyance Bank and First Financial Bank, are responsible for revitalizing Breckenridge Village.

F

or decades, Little Rock residents have made memories at Breckenridge Village, which was built in the mid-1970s. Today, KBK-Breck LLC, which includes wellknown restaurateur Tommy Keet, is breathing new life into the center with a restaurant-forward focus.

“I grew up in Little Rock and spent a lot of time hanging out at Breckenridge,” Tommy says. “I remember it being such a wonderful place, and we wanted to try to revitalize something from my youth that would be really exciting for all of Little Rock. It’s been a lot of work, but as we get things open, the vision is starting to be realized, and it’s very exciting.”

The Root Café’s sign over its second location, which is set to open before the end of the year.

The project kicked off in May 2022; however, the destructive tornado that hit Little Rock in March 2023 delayed progress significantly. “Would we have more things open right now had the tornado not come through? Of course.

But it brought the city together and really showed what a great community this is,” Tommy says. “It has posed a lot of challenges, but it’s also shown the resilience of Little Rock.”

In addition to setbacks related to the tornado damage, Tommy says the shopping center required extensive updates, due to its age. “The regulations for what was appropriate for a restaurant in 1980 have changed in the last 45 years,” he says. “We put in Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 37

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Deluca’s Pizza owner and founder Anthony Valinoti with lead cooks from their Hot Springs location and members of the management teams from both Little Rock and Hot Springs.

This row: Scenes from Waldo’s Chicken & Beer.

three 9,000-gallon grease interceptors and other things like that in order to make this a restaurant-destination hub. We wanted to do something exciting, but also renovate and bring it all back up to code.”

Breckenridge Village’s new restaurant-forward era has already brought Waldo’s Chicken & Beer, Deluca’s Pizza, and Neverwhere Coffee, Comics & Oddities to the center.

Eat My Catfish, which opened in Breckenridge in 2016, closed for a year and underwent an extensive renovation following the tornado. New locations of Flyway Brewing and The Root Café will also soon be joining the mix.

In addition, Mt. Fuji Japanese Restaurant—which became Little Rock’s first sushi restaurant in 1987—has also been renovated and reopened. Aaron Jackson and his brother, Yusuke, are among the new owners of Mt. Fuji, which has been a longstanding staple of the center. They recall fond memories of growing up in the restaurant where their mother worked. Along with Aaron's wife, Shannon, they look forward to proudly 38 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

carrying on its legacy in this new phase. “My parents have had a hand in it for a long while, so it’s kind of a tribute to that first generation,” Aaron says. “The previous owner, Emiko, and my mom moved away from Japan to start a new life, not knowing anyone, and we’re keeping their hard work alive.”

Customers can expect plenty of their old favorites and some new additions to the menu, which Aaron says is designed to celebrate the restaurant’s rich history. “We didn’t want to come in, change everything, and have it be a different place with the same name,” he says. “We wanted to make sure the recipes were kept to that 25-year tradition. We want to put in our own culinary inventions, but stick to the authenticity.”

Similarly, for Anthony Valinoti, establishing the Little Rock location of Deluca’s Pizza has been all about maintaining the quality of the original Hot Springs operation. He says working with the project’s partners has made that possible. “When you get involved with a group who truly knows the restaurant business, it gives me confidence, because this is a well-oiled

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From left: Mt. Fuji Japanese Restaurant’s Aaron and Shannon Jackson and Yusuke Jackson.

machine,” Anthony says. Opened in October, this location serves the New York-style, brick-oven pizza Deluca’s has become known for, plus other Italian favorites such as house-made pastas and cannoli.

Another much-anticipated new addition is a second iteration of The Root Café. Though the format of the shopping center is quite different from the restaurant’s spot on South Main Street, owner Jack Sundell says the location is exactly what his team has been looking for. “We wanted to be really intentional about what area we chose, and this immediately felt right for us,” Jack says.

He values the history of the center, which mirrors the memories people hold about The Root Café’s downtown spot. “People my age have told me about Breckenridge being part of their childhood, so there’s a nostalgic quality to it,” he says.

“Breckenridge is this existing community asset that had kind of been neglected for a little bit, but they’re not tearing it down and rebuilding—they’re revitalizing something that’s already there.”

The former Breckenridge Village movie theater, located at one end of the center, is also seeing a revamp. It’s set to open in early 2025 as Film Alley, owned

by Schulman Theatres. Tommy says the ownership group plans to bring in more retail to the center as well—making it a

Choose Your Own Adventure at Breckenridge Village Whether you're in the mood for coffee or cocktails, catfish or pizza, find it all at 10301 N. Rodney Parham in Little Rock

DELUCA’S PIZZA 501.246.5656 originaldelucas.com EAT MY CATFISH 501.222.8055 eatmycatfish.com FLYWAY BREWING Coming Soon flywaybrewing.com MT. FUJI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 501.227.6498 mtfujilittlerock.com

one-stop destination everyone can enjoy.

For Tommy, the project is also a celebration of Arkansas’s capital city and its people. “I love this city, and I love this state,” he says. “I believe that the people here are outstanding. I just want to see this city be recognized for the hidden gem that it is. This has been two-anda-half years of a lot of work, risk, and investment, but we believe it’s going to pay off.”

NEVERWHERE COFFEE, COMICS & ODDITIES 504.919.9132 neverwherecoffeecomics.com THE ROOT CAFÉ Coming Soon therootcafe.com WALDO’S CHICKEN & BEER 501.916.2340 waldoschicken.com

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 39

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RIGHT ON 'CUE In her new book, food writer Kat Robinson spotlights hundreds of restaurants statewide while telling the story of Arkansas barbecue

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40 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

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APH ER RETT PEEK

H.B.’s Bar-B-Q in Little Rock, one of the restaurants listed in The Arkansas Barbecue Traveler, is a hole-in-the-wall destination best known for its chopped pork, ribs, and fried pies. Try it for yourself at 6010 Lancaster Road, and don’t forget to bring cash—no cards accepted.

The back seat of Kat Robinson’s car is a traveling delicatessen.

When she’s working on a new project—in this case, a book on Arkansas barbecue— she’s been known to tote around coolers, freezer packs, and a vacuum sealer to bring home her research leftovers. “I label everything with permanent marker so I know what’s what, because I might have ribs or pork butt or brisket from 10 to 20 different places at one time,” she says. As a food writer, you’d think tasting each dish would be the highlight but, for Kat, telling each restaurant’s story is much more than describing spices and seasonings. After photographing a few dishes and packing up the leftovers, she digs into the part she loves most.

“This book has deeper interviews than anything I’ve ever done before,” she says.

“And I’m not just asking for words. I’m getting a sense of the place I’m in. I’m listening. I may ask three questions and the interview lasts two hours.”

As with all of Kat’s projects, she’s not interested in singling out superlatives.

She takes a more completist approach to her work. The Arkansas Barbecue Traveler: A Roadside Companion for Hungry Wanderers, which is set to release this month, contains the names and details of what Kat claims to be every barbecue restaurant in the state—totaling more than 350. “Everybody’s got different taste buds, and it’s not up to me to determine who makes the absolute best,” she says.

“Every barbecue joint that’s out there is somebody’s favorite, and I want to give them that representation.”

In addition to cataloging the breadth of Arkansas barbecue, Kat’s intention with this book is to define the dish. “I’ve had a lot of chefs say to me, Arkansas barbecue is just pork barbecue. And I say, where’s your research? It’s usually a book by some guy that’s in North Carolina or New York City; somebody that doesn’t understand the food culture of

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Arkansas.” Kat’s out to change that. So, what is Arkansas barbecue?

THE BIGGER QUESTION

Seventeen years before she set out to define Arkansas barbecue, a broader question was posed to Kat during an interview: What is Arkansas food? This was during a 2007 conversation with Lee Richardson, the New Orleans-bred chef then at the helm of Ashley’s and Capital Bar & Grill. Having started her career in radio then television, Kat had recently taken on writing for traditional print outlets and was interviewing Lee on assignment. “I said, Well, I know we do catfish, we do greens, we do tomatoes, we do pickles... Let me get back to you. I sort of made this my side quest,” she recalls.

“Then later it became my main quest: What is Arkansas food? Because nobody who actually lived here had defined it.”

During this time Kat was also starting to populate her personal blog, Tie Dye Travels, which chronicled her road trips around the state. Little did she know this hobby would become her foray into culinary tourism. “The first thing I would do when I walked into a community was Google every restaurant’s sign. If they didn’t pop up in the search engine— because, remember, this was the early days of the smartphone and Wikipedia—I’d go write about it,” Kat says. In that way, her blog turned into a register of the state’s small-town diners and mom-and-pop restaurants, and it was often the single mention of these places online. This strategy was a boon for traffic, both digital and in person. “It wasn't just that I was getting hits,” she says. “These little bitty

places, some of which had been around forever, started getting people who found them through the internet. And all along the way, I'm learning things. I'm asking questions like, Why do you serve this? Why do you do it this way?”

Before long, when people needed an expert on Arkansas food, they started looking to Kat. She had bylines in almost every outlet in the state. Food Network Magazine and Forbes Travel Guide assigned her stories. One year, at the Southern Foodways Alliance's symposium, John T. Edge himself introduced her to a friend by saying, “This is Kat Robinson.

She preaches the gospel of Arkansas food.” Thanks to her curiosity, Kat was positioned to write the book on Arkansas food. Instead, she wrote 12.

SUBJECT MATTERS

When The Arkansas Barbecue Traveler comes out this month it will be Kat’s 13th book. Several are cookbooks, but most are indexes of a specific subject—such as pie, dairy bars, and now barbecue—and meant to be used as travel guides. “My restaurant books are divided by region under the idea that you read the books twice,” Kat says.

“You read the book front to back, and then you put it in your glove compartment. And Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 41

when you're somewhere, you pull it out and can say, Where’s the closest dairy bar?

Or, I wonder where I can find pie around here?”

Most of her books have come out under her own micropress, Tonti Press, which has afforded her the freedom to follow her gut when choosing her next subject. “I know it’s the next project if I have that feeling of, Oh, I’ve got to do this right now,” she says. “Then I’ll read everything that I can about the subject, and then I’ll actually start going out.”

For The Arkansas Barbecue Traveler, this process started in May 2023. Nine months later, she launched “The Great Arkansas Barbecue Questionnaire,” a crowdsourcing resource aimed at restaurant owners to help identify and locate every single purveyor of barbecue in the state. In summer 2024, she hit the road, coolers at the ready, to start her interviews and photography.

Because Kat doesn’t like to do anything halfway, she plans for this book to be the first in a series. The next, which she hopes to release in spring 2025, will contain oral histories of some of the oldest barbecue spots in the state.

“I’ve spent four hours sitting at Jones Bar-B-Q Diner just chatting with Mr. Harold,” she says, referring to James Harold Jones, whose Marianna eatery was Arkansas’s first James Beard Award winner. It’s in these moments Kat sinks her teeth into stories in a way she wasn’t able to earlier in her career. “For those who have gotten their training in the television or radio industry, you have to produce so much content so quickly.

You have to grab the information and then let it go, and you’re on to the next story,” she says. “But there are deeper stories. There’s so much more to say.”

THE NATURAL STATE OF BARBECUE

Texas has brisket and Missouri has ribs. Alabama’s barbecue sauce is a white, mayo-based concoction, while the Carolinas favor a vinegary accompaniment. Meanwhile, Arkansas’s reputation is that it sits at a crossroads, reflecting the traditions from every direction. But that’s not quite the case, Kat argues—to claim Arkansas is simply a melting pot of 42 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

The Arkansas Barbecue Traveler: A Roadside Companion for Hungry Wanderers is set to come out at the end of November.

Find a copy at store.tontipress.com or wherever books are sold.

outside influences would be to miss the historical contexts that make our story so compelling.

In her research, she found that different styles of barbecue align with different geographic regions of the state.

A bias toward beef in the Ozarks comes from that region’s history of cattle drives and leather making. The Delta’s preference for pork can be traced back to the scarcity of land available to postCivil War tenant farmers. “At that time, pork barbecue becomes the barbecue of the Arkansas Delta, and it influences Memphis—not the other way around,” she says. Then, there’s the way early transportation systems—first the river and later the railroads—affect barbecue over generations, and how Arkansans’ preference for sauce varies from thick to thin in different parts of the state.

The long and the short of it: Nuances abound in Arkansas barbecue.

To see the full picture, you’ve got to hop in your car and go tasting. “When it comes to supporting food and Arkansas foodways, people need to understand this is a destination,” she says. “Within a two-hour radius, you can have four or five different styles of Arkansas barbecue, and you can meet some very interesting people. Part of my goal is to bring people into Arkansas to enjoy these things, because then we get more money into the state, all boats rise with the tide.”

Thanks to H.B.’s Bar-B-Q for providing a location for this shoot.

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KAT ROBINSON

BY THE NUMBERS

2007

YEAR SHE STARTED HER TIE DYE TRAVELS BLOG

13

BOOKS WRITTEN ABOUT ARKANSAS FOOD

500+

NUMBER OF ARKANSAS COOKBOOKS IN HER COLLECTION

15,000+ MILES TRAVELED RESEARCHING THIS BOOK

130+

INTERVIEWS CONDUCTED FOR THIS BOOK

350+

NUMBER OF BARBECUE RESTAURANTS VISITED Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 43

44 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

BE SEATED Photo by Sarah Oden and courtesy of Bella’s Kitchen and Wellness

CATERING IDEAS + PRIVATE DINING GUIDE

A spread of meal prep and catering options from Bella’s Kitchen and Wellness.

SERVING UP ADVICE Four caterers answer our questions on making an event memorable and stress-free P R O D U C E R S T I F FA N Y A DA M S & ST EP H A N I E M A X W EL L N E W TO N Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 45

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MEET THE EXPERTS

Dutch apple pie from Bella’s Kitchen and Wellness.

Sara Hurst BELLA'S KITCHEN AND WELLNESS LITTLE ROCK

Maudie Schmitt CAFÉ RUE ORLEANS FAYETTEVILLE The authenticity and flavor of the Café Rue Orleans restaurant extends to its catering branch, which uses regionally sourced ingredients in Maudie’s beloved, personal recipes. caferueorleans.com

Serge Krikorian VIBRANT OCCASIONS CATERING CENTRAL ARKANSAS With decades of experience in the catering industry, Serge offers everything from plated dinners and buffet-style menus to appetizers and holiday-themed options. vibrantoccasionscatering.com

Curlethia Swanigan BLACK SWAN CATERING NORTH LITTLE ROCK This catering team is known for “artfully created, deliciously made” menus with a Cajun and Creole flair. blackswancatering.company

46 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

TIMELINE HOW FAR IN ADVANCE SHOULD YOU BOOK YOUR CATERER? “For a major event (over 50 people), book at least four to six months in advance. A responsible caterer will give you a deadline of at least 10 days prior to the event to provide a final headcount and to solidify details.

Generally, caterers have slots available for smaller events or ones where the food can be dropped off for you to serve.” ­— CURLETHIA SWANIGAN, BLACK SWAN CATERING

“The ideal time to book a caterer really depends on the type and scale of the event. For weddings, which typically involve more detailed planning and coordination with other vendors, I recommend booking your caterer at least six to 12 months in advance. For large corporate events or fundraisers, a lead time of three to six months is usually sufficient. Booking early gives clients peace of mind and the chance to fully personalize their menu and experience.” ­—SERGE KRIKORIAN, VIBRANT OCCASIONS CATERING

Photo by Sarah Oden and courtesy of Bella’s Kitchen and Wellness. Portraits courtesy of chefs and by Beth Hall (Maudie Schmitt)

Sara started her cooking classes and catering business to offer healthy meals for individuals and groups of all sizes. bellaskitchenandwellness.com

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PLATED MEAL VS. BUFFET HOW DO YOU DECIDE? “Plated events for larger groups require quite a bit more staff. This may cause a bigger service fee to the client. Think about it like this: Each table needs one to two staffers to ensure everyone receives their food hot and fresh at the same time. If there isn't enough staff, Table 1 may be finished eating by the time Table 10 gets their food. Also, buffets provide the guests with more options.” ­— CURLETHIA SWANIGAN, BLACK SWAN CATERING

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HOW SHOULD YOU DETERMINE THIS FOR AN EVENT? ANY MARKERS TO USE AS A GUIDE? “First, I would determine what the overall scope of the event is and how many people you want to invite. Then I would list all of the possible expenses and prioritize what I would want for said event. I would also add a contingency fund of 10-15% for unexpected expenses. Be realistic and reach out to different vendors, and be flexible with your expectations if you have a smaller budget.”

Photo by Beth Hall

­—SARA HURST, BELLA’S KITCHEN AND WELLNESS

“For me, I think it depends on how formal your event will be. A great advantage to plating is limiting options and knowing how much food it will actually require.

Buffets offer more customization, and you will usually have to budget for more servings.” ­—SARA HURST, BELLA’S KITCHEN AND WELLNESS

“Expect to pay at least $20 to $30 a person for food, equipment, and setup. Remember there are additional services not normally included with catering, such as bartending, clean-up crew, desserts, event planning, and even cake cutting.” ­— CURLETHIA SWANIGAN, BLACK SWAN CATERING

“Costs vary between buffet-style gatherings and plated dinners. If that is a major consideration, then note that our buffets are always the less expensive option.” ­—MAUDIE SCHMITT, CAFÉ RUE ORLEANS

Firecracker shrimp from Café Rue Orleans.

“When planning your catering budget, think about the style of service you want—plated meals, buffets, or food stations—because each has different cost implications. The menu itself plays a big role, too. Customizing a gourmet or seasonal menu will generally be more expensive than a simpler selection. A good rule of thumb is to allocate around 3040% of your total event budget to catering, though this can vary. We work closely with our clients to ensure their vision aligns with their budget and we can provide an unforgettable experience that meets their financial needs.” ­—SERGE KRIKORIAN, VIBRANT OCCASIONS CATERING

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 47

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GRAB & GO

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE FINGER FOODS?

“Crab cake bites! We have the best crab cakes in Northwest Arkansas, and turning them into an easy, bite-size appetizer just makes them that much more popular.” ­—MAUDIE SCHMITT, CAFÉ RUE ORLEANS

“I love sliders. The versatility is awesome. You can have teriyaki salmon, pulled pork, blackened chicken, even Sloppy Joe sliders. It’s fun food on a bun!”

Stationary hor d’oeuvres by Vibrant Occasions Catering.

“I like a s’mores bar with marshmallow meringue and flaky sea salt.” ­—SARA HURST, BELLA’S KITCHEN AND WELLNESS

“Our avocado steak toast, which features smoked petit filet on a toasted crostini with fresh avocado and crispy onion tanglers, is one of my favorites along with our shrimp po’ boy crostini, which features a buttered, toasted French baguette topped with crispy fried shrimp and Cajun aioli.” ­—SERGE KRIKORIAN, VIBRANT OCCASIONS CATERING

WEDDING TRENDS ARE THERE CERTAIN FOODS OR OFFERINGS THAT ARE CURRENTLY POPULAR FOR WEDDINGS? “One of the biggest trends is the shift toward interactive and experiential dining. Stations where guests can watch chefs prepare dishes onsite or customize their meals are becoming increasingly popular. From build-your-own taco bars to pasta stations, couples love the idea of giving their guests a more immersive dining experience.” ­—SERGE KRIKORIAN, VIBRANT OCCASIONS CATERING 48 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

“Lately couples have been customizing their weddings by offering their favorite foods, even if it's casual like a pizza or a taco bar! You can also see it reflected in the signature cocktails where couples share their favorite drink with their guests.” ­—SARA HURST, BELLA’S KITCHEN AND WELLNESS

“Food stations are a fun and interactive way to serve a menu. Some popular choices for us have been sliced ribeye, boiled shrimp, and raw oyster stations.” ­—MAUDIE SCHMITT, CAFÉ RUE ORLEANS

Photo by Lori Sparkman Photography and courtesy of Vibrant Occasions Catering

—CURLETHIA SWANIGAN, BLACK SWAN CATERING

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THE DISHES DO YOU HAVE A GO-TO SIGNATURE DISH?

“Our Catfish Tchoupitoulas—a catfish filet stuffed with crabcake and topped with seafood sauce—is our number one dish. It's our take on a classic New Orleans menu item. I think that some people go the route of a Cajun or Creole menu for catered events when they're from Louisiana and want to show off the food from that region. Along those lines, a current favorite dessert on the menu is our white chocolate bread pudding.”

Photo by Beth Hall

­—MAUDIE SCHMITT, CAFÉ RUE ORLEANS

“What truly sets us apart is our chef-prepared, fromscratch food. My personal favorites feature our fusion cuisine, blending my passion for different culinary traditions. For example, our Mediterranean Brisket combines the comfort of a familiar dish with pomegranate molasses, crushed pistachio, and sumac onions.” ­—SERGE KRIKORIAN, VIBRANT OCCASIONS CATERING

“Apricot glazed chicken is a favorite for weddings and major functions. Our more adventurous clients enjoy our Creole favorites like shrimp and grits, spinachstuffed chicken with Creole cream sauce, and smoked chicken Alfredo.” ­— CURLETHIA SWANIGAN, BLACK SWAN CATERING

“I have a few, but what comes to mind is my sweet potato gnocchi with brown butter and sage or a maple-miso salmon.” ­—SARA HURST, BELLA’S KITCHEN AND WELLNESS

Catfish Tchoupitoulas and crispy potatoes from Café Rue Orleans.

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 49

Monday:

Open Mic Night

TUESDAY Karaoke

WEDNESDAY

75¢ wings all day (dine-in only) $12 domestic buckets

Thursday Live Music

FRIDAY Karaoke

Saturday + Sunday Brunch @ 11am (all day) Live Music on Saturday

1321 Rebsamen Park Road 501.663.9802

50 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

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PRIVATE DINING GUIDE

Hosting a birthday dinner or a gathering for friends? Restaurants across the state offer private and semi-private rooms available for groups of 100 or fewer guests

BATESVILLE NATALIE’S CAFE & CATERING 3050 Harrison St. | 870.698.0200 whodatnat.com Private | Seats up to 10 Semi-private | Seats up to 30 THE RIVER 50 Riverbank Road | 870.793.7000 facebook.com/bestdamsteakhouse Private | Seats up to 25, 60, and 150

Photos by Beth Hall

TAVOLO 3000 Jennings Lane | 870.569.8569 tavoloisthebest.com Private | Seats up to 50

BENTON BAJA GRILL 224 W. South Street | 501.680.7109 eatbajagrill.com Semi-Private | Seats up to 16

BENTONVILLE BENTONVILLE TACO & TAMALE CO. 101 W. Central Ave. | 479.448.4480 tacoandtamale.com Private | Seats up to 8 and 45 CONIFER 321 SE Second St. |479.203.5999 coniferbentonville.com Private | Seats up to 18

JUNTO SUSHI AT MOTTO BY HILTON 229 S. Main St., Suite 100 | 479.345.5005 juntosushi.com Private | Seats up to 12 THE HIVE AT 21C HOTEL 200 NE A St. | 479.286.6575 thehivebentonville.com Private | Seats up to 32 TAVOLA TRATTORIA 108 SE A St. | 479.715.4738 tavolatrattoria.com Private | Seats up to 40 and 65

CLARKSVILLE KASPER’S 501 N Johnson St. | 479.647.4332 kaspersclarksville.com Private | Seats up to 50

CONWAY MIKE'S PLACE 808 Front St. | 501.269.6453 mikesplaceconway.com Private | Seats up to 25 and 50 ROGUE ROUNDABOUT 804 Chestnut St. | 501.358.6500 therogueroundabout.com Private | Seats up to 30

FAYETTEVILLE ATLAS THE RESTAURANT 208 N. Block Ave. | 479.332.4601 atlastherestaurant.com Private | Seats up to 18 BORDINO'S RESTAURANT & WINE BAR 310 W. Dickson St. | 479.527.6795 bordinos.com Private | Seats up to 18 and 45 CHEERS AT THE OPO 1 W. Center St. | 479.301.2121 cheersopo.com Private | Seats up to 28 and 100 MERMAIDS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 2217 N. College Ave. | 479.443.3737 mermaids.ws Private | Seats up to 12, 65, and 160+ THEO'S 318 N. Campbell Ave. | 479.527.0086 theosfayetteville.com Semi-private | Seats up to 14 VETRO 1925 RISTORANTE 17 E. Center St. | 479.966.4649 vetro1925.com Private | Seats up to 40

HOT SPRINGS Junto Sushi at Motto by Hilton, Bentonville

DONS SOUTHERN SOCIAL 901 Central Ave. | 501.359.3781 seeyouatdons.com Private | Seats up to 10 Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 51

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S E AT E D J&S ITALIAN VILLA 4332 Central Ave. B | 501.525.1121 jandsitalian.com Private | Seats up to 24 THE PORTERHOUSE 707 Central Ave. | 501.321.8282 theporterhousehotsprings.com Private | Seats up to 45, 75, and 115

JONESBORO 501 STEAKHOUSE 2628 Phillips Drive | 870.972.6501 501steakhouse.com Private | Seats up to 40, 56, and 120 OMAR’S UPTOWN 301 S. Main St. | 870.336.3001 omarsuptown.com Private | Seats up to 10 and 25

LITTLE ROCK 42 BAR AND TABLE 1200 President Clinton Ave. | 501.537.0042 clintonfoundation.org Private | Seats up to 12 ARTHUR'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE 16100 Chenal Parkway | 501.821.1838 arthursprime.com Private | Seats up to 8 and 20 BARK BAR & GRILLE 1201 S. Spring St. | 501.295.3989 barkbar.com Private | Seats up to 42 BRAVE NEW RESTAURANT 2300 Cottondale Lane, Suite 105 501.663.2677 bravenewrestaurant.com Private | Seats up to 24, 32, 46, and 86 BREAD CHEESE WINE 1424 Main St., Suite 101 | 501.379.4290 bcwlittlerock.com Semi-private | Seats up to 25 THE BUTCHER SHOP 10825 Hermitage Road | 501.312.2748 thebutchershoplr.com Private | Seats up to 70 CACHE RESTAURANT 425 President Clinton Ave. 501.285.8381 cachelittlerock.com Private | Seats up to 25 CHEERS IN THE HEIGHTS 2010 N. Van Buren St. | 501.663.5937 cheersith.com Private | Seats up to 20

52 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

COPPER GRILL 300 E. Third St. | 501.375.3333 coppergrilllr.com Private | Seats up to 75 DOE'S EAT PLACE 1023 W. Markham St. | 501.376.1195 doeseatplacelr.com Private | Seats up to 25 GEORGE’S 5510 Kavanaugh Blvd. | 501.353.2239 georgeslittlerock.com Private | Seats up to 20, 27, and 94 EL SUR STREET FOOD CO. 1214 Main St. | 501.812.3066 elsurstreetfoodco.com Private | Seats up to 68 KEMURI (HILLCREST) 2601 Kavanaugh Blvd. | 501.660.4100 kemurirestaurant.com Private | Seats up to 20 and 50 KEMURI WEST (CHENAL) 17200 Chenal Parkway, Suite 100 501.821.7272 kemurirestaurant.com Private | Seats up to 30 LOCA LUNA 3519 Old Cantrell Road | 501.663.4666 localuna.com Private | Seats up to 50 THE OYSTER BAR 3003 W. Markham St. | 501.666.7100 lroysterbar.com Semi-private | Seats up to 30 PARK GRILL AT THE ARKANSAS MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 501 E. Ninth St. | 501.396.0390 parkgrillatamfa.com Private | Seats up to 24 PETIT & KEET 1620 Market St. | 501.319.7675 petitandkeet.com Private | Seats up to 14, 34, and 40 RADUNO BRICK OVEN BARROOM 1318 S. Main St., Suite 100 | 501.374.7476 radunolr.com Now offering private dining at The Nest: 112 W. Daisy L Gatson Bates Drive Private | Seats up to 24 Semi-private | Seats up to 50 RED MOON TAVERN 6015 Chenonceau Blvd. | 501.367.8188 theredmoontavern.com Private | Seats up to 50 SAMANTHA'S TAP ROOM & WOOD GRILL 322 Main St. | 501.379.8019 samstap.com Private | Seats up to 50

SAUCE(D) BAR & OVEN 11121 N. Rodney Parham Road, Suite 9A 501.214.6048 saucedlr.com Private | Seats up to 20 SONNY WILLIAMS’ STEAK ROOM 500 President Clinton Ave., Suite 1 501.324.2999 sonnywilliamssteakroom.com Private | Seats up to 20, 30, 36, and 60 TRIO’S 8201 Cantrell Road, Suite 100 | 501.221.3330 triosrestaurant.com Private | Seats up 64 YAYA’S EURO BISTRO 17711 Chenal Parkway | 501.821.1144 yayaseurobistro.com Private | Seats up 18, 30, and 60 ZIN WINE BAR 11121 N. Rodney Parham Road | 501.406.7159 zinlr.com Private | Seats up to 20 and 60

NORTH LITTLE ROCK CYPRESS SOCIAL 7103 Cock of the Walk Lane | 501.916.2670 cypresssocial.com Private | Seats up to 25 and 60 DRAFT AND TABLE 301 Main St. | 501.441.4044 draftandtable.com Private | Seats up to 12 OL' BART SOUTHERN EATS AT DIAMOND BEAR BREWERY 600 N. Broadway St. | 501.406.7819 olbartsoutherneats.com Private | Seats up to 60 RISTORANTE CAPEO 425 Main St. | 501.376.3463 facebook.com/RistoranteCapeo Private | Seats up to 60

ROGERS LOMA 5102 W. Pauline Whitaker Parkway, Suite 315 479.335.2100 lomamx.com Private | Seats up to 14 THEO’S 3300 S. Market St., Suite 100 | 479.553.7371 theosrogers.com Private | Seats up to 14, 25, 60 and 100 Semi-private | Seats up to 8, 16, and 25

1501 North University Avenue, Little Rock, AR Text for Reservations: 501-500-3023 Mi-Paella-Bar-Restaurant

@mipaella.lr

OFFERING PERSONALIZED ME AL PL ANS FOR BODY A ND MIND.

3000 Kavanaugh Blvd, Ste 103A | Little Rock, AR

allinabowl

@bowl.lr

C A T E R I N G

C O M P A N Y

blackswancaterers.com

DELIGHTFULLY CREATED, DELICIOUSLY MADE #YOURFAVORITECATERERS Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 53

L A ST

CO U R S E

Get to know

KAILA THE FOODIE explored, she started posting her favorite finds on Instagram, inviting a growing audience to follow along. “I felt like I was the city's concierge and wanted to be able to guide people who were looking for food and entertainment around town,” she adds.

Today, she continues to share with followers and even partners with the state as one of their influencer ambassadors. Read on to learn about a few of Kaila’s favorites.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR RECENT FAVORITE SPOTS?

FAVORITE MEAL GROWING UP?

I went to The Farmer's Table in Fayetteville recently. It’s a locally sourced, homestyle café. I got a hearty breakfast with ham, eggs, grits, and a pancake, and it was so, so good. Another favorite recent find is the Caverns & Forests Board Game Café located in downtown North Little Rock.

They have over 600 games, and it's really chill and inviting.

I like that they serve food and beverages and even offer brunch on the weekend! It's the perfect place to go with friends when you want to get out of the house but still have that intimate get-together.

Now this is a hard one... I used to request my mom’s spaghetti and green beans all the time because it was always so good and comforting. But my grandma loved trying new restaurants and bringing me along—that's how I became a foodie. So another one of my favorite meals growing up was Chinese lo mein and fried rice.

We went to Fu Lin’s a lot!

BEST PLACE TO SHOW OFF THE LOCAL FOOD SCENE? For brunch, Raduno Brick Oven.

For dinner, I try to choose a place that I know is always consistent yet unique, like The Oyster Bar, Brood & Barley, or George's.

SWEET OR SALTY?

FAVORITE COCKTAIL?

I am definitely a salty-oversweet kind of girl, but I do love a sweet-and-salty combo or a savory-and-sweet combo!

Picture this: a cracker with goat cheese, a piece of calabrese salami with red pepper jam then top it with a raspberry. Chef’s kiss. It's the perfect bite of salty, sweet, spicy, and savory!

I love a good martini. I often rotate between a dirty martini (with extra olives), a pickle martini, or a cosmopolitan.

GO-TO COFFEE ORDER? Cafe con Miel from Mugs Cafe.

FAVORITE THING ABOUT POSTING YOUR FOOD ADVENTURES ON INSTAGRAM? I love that although it's a hobby, it's also like a part-time job that I enjoy. I get to eat, be creative, and meet new people all while also exploring my hometown. My following has definitely grown since the pandemic and deciding to amp up the content with videos. I've noticed that the more I stay consistent with showcasing places authentically, the more my audience and their trust grows. Now when I go out, people are like, Hey, you're the foodie! That makes me feel good because it reassures me that I'm not only doing something I love, but other people love it and look forward to whatever I have to share.

Keep up with Kaila's adventures on Instagram (@kailux) and be on the lookout for her at restaurants around Little Rock.

54 PLATED: The Arkansas Dining Guide | Fall 2024

Photo by Artez Irvin and courtesy of Kaila Holloway

Kaila Holloway has a stint in the hospitality industry to thank for her current hobby-meets-side hustle as a food blogger. As a concierge at one of Little Rock’s most well-known hotels around 2013, she was tasked with getting to know the surrounding restaurants in order to make informed suggestions to hotel guests. “That made me fall in love with taking food pictures and sharing my hidden gems in the city,” she says. As Kaila

saucedlr.com thebutchershoplr.com

theredmoontavern.com

zinlr.com

Fall 2024 | platedmag.com 55

THE CONVERSATION CONTINUES ONLINE. VISIT OUR BLOG AND FOLLOW ALONG ON FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM. platedmag.com @plated.mag