Expat profile: When one cenote isn’t enough

Food & Drink

Drink your corn ...

TEXT AND PHOTO LEE STEELE

In the land of corn, why not whisky?

The land of tequila and mezcal isn’t known for whisky, but that could change. In under a decade, the rise in heirloom corn production has given birth to a handful of boutique distillers in Mexico on a drive for recognition.

The domestic whisky market is ascendent where whisky sales are second only to tequila, although so far Mexico is drinking mainly expensive imports, Johnnie Walker Scotch whisky — distilled from grains — in particular.

Abasolo, the biggest Mexican brand, comes from tiny Jilotepec in the State of Mexico. Its whiskey (spelled with the e) is derived from heirloom Cacahuazintle corn cooked via nixtamalization, a 4,000-year-old alkaline-cooking process first used by Aztecs and Maya. Today, the process is employed to make tortillas, but Abasolo was the first to apply it to distilling spirits in 2019.

Sierra Norte Single Barrel Whiskey, made with black corn from Oaxaca, is aged in wood to produce buttery, caramel-like vanilla flavors.

Revés Whisky comes from Ensenada and would be agreeable to any Johnnie Walker diehard. Revés Black (MX$990 at La Botelleria) is aged for three years in new American oak barrels, then aged for six months in Mezcal barrels from Oaxaca for a pleasing and lingering smoky finish.

The distillery was founded by Hans Backoff of the Monte Xanic winery in Baja California.

“When you think about whisky as a corn based spirit you must ask yourself, ‘who grows the best corn in the world?’ The answer is crystal clear, Mexico!” says Sean Sant Amour, proprietor of La Botelleria, which is on the corner of Calle 56 at 53 in Santa Lucía — and across from Bird, where we sampled Revés Black. “Not only the best tasting corn but non-GMO corn with the most integrity.”

Heirloom origen maiz has approximately 20% more protein than corn produced outside Mexico. Protein is only one example of a component that can be measured, but there are so many intangible components that create an exceptionally unique Mexican flavor profile, says Sean.

“The soil that gave birth to corn is here and that translates directly to a specific depth of flavor and character in the whiskies of Mexico,” he says.

For your consideration, here’s a winter-themed cocktail we served at our holiday party last year.

Revés Whisky Black was introduced to me at Bird. Bottles of the brand are sold across the street at La Botelleria on Calle 56 and 53 in Mérida’s Centro Histórico.

Apple Cider Whisky Cocktail

Courtesy Sommelier Express, 1 glass

Cider pairs perfectly with Mexican whisky. It’s got a hint of lemon and a surprise ingredient that rounds out the flavors into a meld that’s intriguing, complex, and highly drinkable.

“Many of my cocktail recipes are based on standard great cocktails recipes that have stood the test of time, like the whisky sour or Manhattan,” mixologist Fernando Almazan explains. “My goal here was simple: create a drink that’s interesting and complex, not too

Tama Shoduko Choga Seoul

sweet, that highlights apple cider, and gives the drinker all the cozy feelings of the season.”

Sweet vermouth is standard in the everyday liquor cabinet, and it’s the secret ingredient here. You’ll use it for everything from a Manhattan to a Negroni. It’s a little unexpected in an apple cider cocktail, but it adds just the right complexity. It’s both dry and sweet at once and rounds out each sip. You’ll taste the apple cider on the front end, the vermouth in the middle and the whisky on the back end.

Ingredients » 3 Oz Sparkling apple cider 3 oz » 1 Oz Whisky (Mexican) 1 oz » ½ Oz Sweet red vermouth » ¼ Oz Lime juice » 5 drops Angostura bitters 1. Stir together all ingredients into a cocktail mixing glass. Forget James Bond. This is a classic “stirred” cocktail where the bartender stirs the ingredients together instead of shaking them. Shaking dilutes the drink with ice, which would water it down too much.

2. Strain and garnish. Strain the drink into a stemmed cocktail glass. You can also get away with this drink in an old fashion glass if you’d like. Note that it’s meant to be served without ice as we continue to resist diluting the liquor

3. Garnish with apple slices. Cut apple slices can start to brown when exposed to air. To combat this, spritz them with a little acid: lemon juice is perfect. (Plus, you already have a lemon open.)

Email: sommelierexpress@live.com

PHOTO: ERSTEN IMAOKA VIA FLICKR

... and your chaya, too

Chaya is to Yucatán like maple is to Vermont. And you can grow this nutritious leafy green in your own garden.

Plan to start your Chaya patch in the spring, when the weather warms up. It loves the sun, humidity and heat. No wonder it’s so abundant here.

First, stick cuttings instead of seeds in a starter pot. Just make sure you’ve planted the root end into the soil. Any garden soil or planting mix will satisfy this easily satisfied plant.

When you have big, healthy leaves, it’s time to consider cooking them. Never eat them raw. Their leaves actually contain cyanide, but the toxins are removed after 20 minutes in boiling water.

Also, avoid aluminum pots, which react with the juice of the plant, possibly resulting in digestive problems.

Chaya is nutrient-dense. In a 100-gram serving of chaya, there are up to 7.4 grams of protein, 330 mg of calcium, 11.4 mg of iron, 1357 IU of Vitamin A, and 205 mg of Vitamin C.

Not to be used as a salad green, chaya is best in soups, tamales, and eggs. And of course, agua de chaya, with or without some pineapple and orange juice, is a healthy and refreshing drink. Here’s the recipe:

Agua de Chaya

1 serving

»1 Cup fresh orange juice » 1 Cup chaya leaves, chopped » 2 Cups water » 2 Cups ice cubes

Add the first four ingredients into a blender and puree until smooth. Pour over ice, and maybe take advantage of our famous Yucatecan honey to make it sweeter.

— Lee Steele

More cooking and entertaining ideas at yucatanmagazine.com/tag/recipes

Head north, think east

Checking out the Japanese food at Tama Shokudo and Choga Seoul’s Korean cuisine

TEXT ANDPHOTOS EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ

Determined to get out of our comfort zone, we decided to head north and explore interesting places beyond Centro. On our hunt for new flavors and experiences we tried two unique restaurants.

Tama Shokudo

On a corner just a few blocks from El Parque de la Alemán there’s a curious house decorated with Japanese lamps and eye-catching signs of kanjis, or Japanese lettering. The place itself is small and unassuming, with just a few tables and a “no reservations” policy, so be prepared to wait a (short) while. It’s worth it.

The dining space is decorated simply with a sprinkling of Japanese references. The décor isn’t overloaded like some other restaurants. There was no Japanese music but the waiter did welcome us with a friendly “konnichiwa!”

Looking over the menu, I Immediately decided to order the Miso Ramen topped with chashu (sliced slow cooked pork belly). The chicken broth was tasty, and loaded with noodles topped with sliced, slow-cooked pork belly. The portion was generous. I was happy to discover they prepare the classic Japanese beverage Calpis, so I ordered one: fresh and delicious.

My companion ordered Katsu Curry, a breaded pork fillet bathed in curry sauce served with rice.

Doenjang-jjigae from Choga Seoul. Customers wait for a table at Tama Shoduko.

It was a good-sized serving, a flavorful curry sauce and the breading was crispy.

Prices at Tama Shokudo are more than fair. We didn’t order dessert because we were so full but the matcha-flavored macaroons sounded great. They don’t offer delivery service (which is a shame). I must confess that this Miso Ramen is stuck in my mind and heart.

Calle 29A, 184, Col. Miguel Alemán; Instagram: @tamashokudo

Choga Seoul

Heading north on Avenida Correa Rachó, in Fraccionamiento del Arco right before reaching Altabrisa, is a small, unpretentious Korean restaurant. A real hole-in-the-wall place: blink and you’ll miss it.

The menu includes traditional homemade dishes such as ramen, Korean sushi, and even a cold soup with ice!

The place was packed and we had to wait some time for a table. We suggest you take the smart route and make a reservation. While waiting, we took a look at their little store selling lots of Korean products and things like a BTS-branded drip coffee (yes, the famous Korean boy band).

Choga Seoul is steps away from a busy street with lots of cars and buses. Most tables are outside — there are only two tables inside — so it can be a bit noisy at times. The Korean pop music sounding through the speakers did a good job, along with the decoration, to create an authentic and interesting ambience.

We started with the Mandu, a plate of eight Korean fried mini-empanadas filled with a (perhaps too) small portion of beef. We were really hungry so they gave us some relief. For the main dish, I decided on the Doenjang-jjigae, a pork stew with vegetables (potato, onion, squash, and homemade tofu). It was delicious and plentiful, well worth the wait. I chose a delicious cold ginger tea to drink. My companion felt curious about the ChapChae and ordered that. It was a big dish of sweetpotato noodles with vegetables and pork. It was really delicious but I’m sure she preferred my stew. Good luck next time! Her drink was a sweet Korean date tea.

Again, no dessert. We had had plenty of good food already and the Strawberry Bing-Su on the other table looked massive. Next time we will try to save some room.

»Eduardo Vázquez is this magazine's creative consultant and de facto Food & Drink editor. He has over a decade of experience in print and digital media. A craft beer and music enthusiast, he keeps his finger on the pulse of Mérida. » Hannah Hudson contributed to this report. Calle 17Am 101B, Fracc. del Arco: Instagram: @choga_seoul