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Janez Bogataj >
POTICAS from Slovenia
40 recipes for the finest sweet and savoury poticas, for ordinary days and feast days, for all seasons ‌
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Janez Bogataj
POTICAS from Slovenia Text Janez Bogataj Design Edi Berk / KROG Photographs of poticas and working procedures Tomo Jeseničnik Other photographs and archival photographs courtesy of the private collections of Janez Bogataj, Zmago Tančič and Rocky Mountain Potica Drawings Janez Bogataj Editor Barbara Bogataj Translator Simon Demšar Proof-reader Noah Charney Production Klemen Fedran Publisher Založba Rokus Klett d.o.o. For the publisher Maruša Kmet Graphic prepress KROG, Ljubljana
1st edition Print run 700 copies Ljubljana 2017 Poticas baked by Sonja Jezeršek at Dvor Jezeršek 1768, Zgornji Brnik, with the assistance of Vanja Damjanić.
CIP - Kataložni zapis o publikaciji Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica, Ljubljana 641.56(497.4) 641.55:664.68(083.12) BOGATAJ, Janez, 1947Poticas from Slovenia : 40 recipes for the finest sweet and savoury poticas, for ordinary days and feast days, for all seasons --- / [text, drawings] Janez Bogataj ; [photographs of poticas and working procedures Tomo Jeseničnik, other photographs and archival photographs of the private collections of Janez Bogataj, Zmago Tančič and Rocky Mountain Potica ; translator Simon Demšar]. - 1st ed. - Ljubljana : Rokus Klett, 2017 Izv. stv. nasl.: Potice iz Slovenije ISBN 978-961-271-838-1 291818240
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ON THE ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT OF POTICA
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POTICA YEAR IN SLOVENIA
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POTICA FEASTS IN SLOVENIA
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POTICAS FROM SLOVENIA
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Sweet Poticas Honey Potica Buckwheat Potica Buckwheat Honey Potica Buckwheat Potica with Hazelnuts Walnut Potica Hazelnut Potica Almond or ‘White’ Potica Almond Potica Chestnut Potica Raisin Potica Tarragon Potica Mint Potica Skuta Cheese Potica Carob Potica Poppyseed Potica Pumpkin Seed Potica Prune Potica Hubánca Goriška Gubánca Chocolate Potica Cocoa Potica
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Dried Fruits Potica Carrot Potica Vanilla Potica Coconut Potica Clotted Cream Potica Cream and Skuta Cheese Potica Vegetarian Potica
88 90 92 94 96 98 100
Savoury Poticas Crackling (Lard) Potica Crackling Potica with Corn Flour Lard Potica Sausage Potica Kranjska Sausage Potica Cerkljansko Onion Potica with Walnuts Meat Potica Millet Porridge Potica or ‘Štula’ Mint Peasant Potica Chive Potica or ‘Želševka’ Lovage Potica or ‘Luštrkajca’ Pajtíčke
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The existing assumptions about the origins and development of potica have mostly dealt with their etymological explanation. However, it explains only the technique of its making and, in part, its shape. The term ‘potica’, and its fairly rare modern dialectal equivalents povtíca and potvica, are believed to come from the word povitíca (also known as povítica, povética). It is derived from past passive participle of the verb poviti (to wrap), and is believed to have referred to wrapped, rolled pastry. In Slovenian and Italian scientific texts, there are isolated examples of names for a rolled flat cake called a pogača, gubana or gubanca, that otherwise, and technically speaking, only partly resembles potica. Gubana is a typical Friulian festive flat cake, mostly served at Easter time, but also for Christmas and other family celebrations. In Goriška brda and the Gorizia areas, it is referred to as gubánca or hubánca. The dish originates in the valley of Natisone (Nadiža), however it was also developed in Gorizia, under the influences of all sorts of immigrations. The first written records on gubana date back to 1409, when it was one of the 72 dishes at the reception of Pope Gregory XII, on the occasion of his visit to Cividale. However, the Cividale area is familiar with another variant of gubana, made from filo dough, still known today as čedajska (Cividale) or patriarchal gubana. The first written record on this pastry and its price
FRO M
There are sweet and savoury poticas, while traditional fillings, giving poticas their particular names, have recently been joined by a myriad of new ones. Technologically speaking, there are several variants. The key characteristic is the type of dough. It is usually yeasted, made from white or buckwheat flour. It is less common to use unleavened filo dough, as it already borders on strudels and this would make it too similar. The key issue is the identity and recognisability of potica; in other words – when a particular potica can still be called ‘potica’. On top of that, Slovenia’s cultural heritage boasts a number of sweet and savoury pastries, all called potica (pronounced ‘poh-tee-tza’), but the technique of their making, and their related appearance, may stray from the above definition.
9 POTI CAS
Potica usually refers to a festive Slovenian pastry consisting of rolled out yeasted dough, spread with a variety of fillings and then rolled up. It is usually baked in a ring shape, with a hole in the middle, in a round potica baking dish that resembles a Bundt pan, with either smooth or ribbed walls, or alternatively in the shape of a loaf (sometimes several parallel loaves) baked in a rectangular tray. This latter shape is generally known as štrukelj.
S LOV EN I A
On the Origins and Development of Potica