PNG: Seduction and Sorcery

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t Left: Men show off their skills in the Trobriand lslands.

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Story & Photos by RODERICK

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Even sorne of well-traveled and worldly ladies were clearly

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posited us was afoot.

the beach ar

Island. Clearly sornething

We knew from our lectr-rre on-board Ocecmic Princess that

the tobriand Islands possess a fabled reputarion as the "lslands of Love," but what was taking place on the pearl-white sands as we approached struck r-rs sornething much rnore forth-

rightl Two lines of lean, well.oiled men, obviously chosen for their physical prowess, greetecl r-rs with the rnost ()verr gyrarrons. .WWW,SPECIALTYTMVEL.COM

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blushing at this unrnistakably rnasculine display. The drurn. beats becarne even rnore excited and were now interspersed with a shrill urnpire's whistle. Frenzied motions of the men's hips were leaving absol"rtely nothing to rhe imagination. And then ... stop.

A man in a cornically chosen shirt-and-tie combo approached clutching a bullhorn and quickly shook the hand of Jamie, our expedition leader, and welcorned us heartily into his cornmunity. Then he turned to the several hurdred villagers now assernblecl behind the clancers ancl proceecled to bellow a torrent of clistorred, picigin English instructions intcl the crowd.

FALLIWINTER 2006

A small group of uniformed but unarmed "communiry police" stood

casu.

ally between us and the feverishly curious inhabitants now straining for a view of the unusual arrivals.

On cue, a small corridor appeared in the crowd, and from it emerged halfa-dozen golden-skinned nubile young maidens clutching vivid and inrricate flower constructions that were delicately placed over, or onto, our widebrimmed hats. As in ancient tobriand tradition, we were being welcomed by the most attractive, eligible members of this little communiry.

"The Tiobrianders have made seduction an art form," Nancy, our resrdent anthropologist, reminds us. "lt's all a part of the matrilineal (femalebased) society of this region."

I was a passenger aboard the brand-new, 76-passenger expedition yacht Ocecmic Princess, which was making a rwo-srage, 20-day voyage through the Solomon and Bismarck Seas of Papua New Guinea. This was her maiden international voyage and the first such cruise by an Australian-registered and -crewed vessel in some 50 years. On our journey, we'd explore rainforests, encounter rare plants and animals, and learn about local cultures some of whom practiced cannibalism as recenrly as 100 years ago.

Papua New Guinea, one of the most colourful and tribal destinations on the planet, has suffered from more than its fair share of bad PR. True, Port Moresby and some of the Highland regions are somewhat unstable.

But our explorations in the Solomon Sea were marked, not by heavy security and armed escorts, but by broad welcoming smiles and hordes of delighted children hopping and yelping about us as we toured, as honored guests, their spotless

little villages.

!7e traded handshakes and schoolbooks and were rewarded with reverence and kindness. Our entire band of world-savvy rravelers felt humbled by the genuine hospitality and downright good manners of these proud and resourceful islanders. Prime green coconuts overflowing with cool juice were proffered us as we stepped ashore at the tiniest, most remote villages. Some of these outposts only see white folks perhaps once a year. I'rn sure that, to a good many of the children, we were their first.

Dr Nancy Sullivan was our cultural interpreter on our voyage, and, without her, we'd be floundering in this complex multi-layered kula culture that trades in chattels, food and favours. Kula rs a benign yer highly involved game of straregy and influence that has formed the basis for inter-island relations in the Milne Bay region over lnany centuries.

"This gorgeous shell jewelery," announces Nancy while selecting one of the tobriand Islands girls who is probably the equivalenr of a princess, "is a very clear sign of her status in the community."

Nancy delicately cradles and adrnires the weighty assembly of motherof-pearl, spondylus and crocus shell strung together to form a magnificent ceremonial piece.

"This piece of kula is probably more rhan 1OO years old and is full of legend and magic," Nancy announces, her eyes widening behind dark glasses as we peer in wonder at the polished baubles.

For my part, I am completely entranced at the intricate decorations applied to our hostess. Her flawless skin is dusred with stigma from lurid yellow flowers, and garlands of tiny, painstakingly woven flowers drape her neck. Dark armbands with shell adornmenrs match the cluster of handfashioned red shells cascading from her petite earlobes, while a similar strand encircles her subtly painted forehead, which in rurn is topped with a tiara of bird feathers. Each girl is similarly bedecked, but infinitesimal differences declare her family's ultimate status with in the community.

The dainty troupe turns to escort us up the shorr hill to a parade grclund where hundreds more spectators await, their coquettish banana-fiber miniskirts waving seductively in unison. The sun and spectacle were staring to make my head spin!

See our olphobeticol listing#196.

The entire morning we were treated to the most elaborate and breathtaking dances, perforrned hy men, women and children of all ages. From slow, sensual, Polynesian-style hr"rla dancing to the legendary and hilariously ritr,ralized Tiobriand cricket, the vibrant and unashamedly sensual culture of the Tiobriand Islands was on show.

Prior to ollr retllrn to Oceanic Prlncess, we

FALLIWINTER 2OO5 . WWW.SPECIALTYTMVEL.COM

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SPECIALTY TRAVEL'NDEX 29

embarked on some kula trading of our own and wandered among the many artifacts laid out for our inspection. Beautiful ebony carvings inlaid with mother-of-pearl, masks and shell jewelery were a[ on view.

Back aboard and relishing the air-conditioned comfort of Oceanic Princess' Top Deck Bar, our conversation barely veered from the intoxicating entertainment we'd just witnessed. Nancy threaded amongst us, handling a myriad of questions, all of

which she engaged with her seemingly inexhaustible enthusiasm.

The tobriand Islands make up but a small part of Oceanic in Papua New Guinea and Melanesia.

The D'Entrecasteaux group of islands, home of witchcraft, sorcannibalism, are next cery and until relatively recently on the list, along with mystical New Ireland and Nissan Island in the newly revitalized province of Bougainville.

Pnncess' new itineraries

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

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Travel Tips

Mainland towns, in particular Port Moresby, do suffer from a higher crime rate. Caution should be exercised when walking alone, especially at night. Visitors should take a cab.

Bargaining for souvenirs is spirited and energetic, but not aggressive.

Tiavelers should not be afraid to haggle, but should keep in the spirit of the process, and not grind down the price to nothing. Quality items are cheap in any case, especially in the villages.

Tiavelers should consult their tour company about bringing small gift items and necessities for the many children, clinics and schools they will visit. Instead of bringing sweets (the people of Papua New Guinea have beautiful smiles because they don't eat candy), people should bring school marerials, simple medicines, first-aid items and light clothing.

Weather is always warm and humid. Wash-and-wear, non-iron fabrics are ideal and people should keep their packing down. Must-bring items include a hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, insect repellent, sandals ond closed A compact umbrella could be handy, as light show-

shoes for walking. ers are frequent.

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FALLIWINTER 2006

Opposite top: Girls in the Nissan lslands.

Opposite bottom: Secret dukduk ceremony.

Below: The Oceanic Princess carries 76 passengers.

On this over-commercialized, globalized planet of ours, very few genuine cultural experiences remain to be savored' Those here in the sprawling archipelagos of Papau New Guinea are undeniably on that list. Even though, in most communities, a tincture of Christianity is evident either as an ongoing practice or as a recent memory, traditional culture is still very strong.

Paradoxically, a surprisingly good command of English clearly exists alongside "tok pisin" (pidgin Enghsh) and the 800'odd tribal languages in this incredibly diverse land.

Superbly equipped for exploring the tight and narrow water' ways that yield such rich discoveries, the purpose'built Oceanic Princess carries not only the ubiquitous Zodiacs, but also a glass' bottomed boat and a "secret weapon": Xplorer, an B0-seat, high-powered, aluminium-hulled excursion vessel complete

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Tor*,s

Costa Rica Cuba t

Belize

4o

with awning and restroom!

Coral Princess' Managing Director, Tony Briggs, was one of the many awe-struck expeditioners aboard Oceutic Pnncess for her maiden international voyage. "Xplorer is one of the things that really sets us apart," Tony points out. "'We load every single passenger while it's still on the launch platform, lower it into the water, and away we go! Every passenger gets the benefit of the most informed guide; everyone gets a dry, comfy seat in the shade; and there are no white knuckles getting on and off."

So unlike Dampier, de Torres and Bligh, whose journeys in the region were fraught with discomforts' our explorations were in air-conditioned comfort and private cabins the size of motel rooms.

This infinitely multifaceted region of Papua New Guinea continues to exude the rich charm and glamour that drew both scoundrels like Errol Flynn for its "pleasures" and eminent an' thropologists like Bronislaw Malinowski and Annette \Teiner

8c Co Deluxe Trauel vrogravn{;

Ecuador w

Uruguay

Venbeuela

Amazon Jungle, Easterri#j$nd, Ga lapagos Panama Canal, Machu ffichu, Patagonia

Carnivals in |-atin Avnerica MeAical Meetings, lncerftiv e Progravns

1.900 .367 .7378 mikhtin@aol.com

b-m,:l.L.A*Go*o See our olphobeticol listing

#154.

for its complex societal stmctures. As for inquisitive travelers

it is simply one of the most fascinating and truly like myself enriching regions I've ever visited. I

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Coral Princess Cruises operates the Oceanic Princess on arange of 10'to 13'dny itiner' aries that inchtde islands

of Papua New Guinea, Mebnesia utd

New Zealand. AII meals rmd exctnsions are included; prices start at $5,220 per person double occupancy. For information: TeI:800' 44 1 -6880 ; Website : www. coralprincess.coln. &u.

For more information abom other tow operators, see the Actiu' ity Index mder "Cruises

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Expedition."