Up Close and Very Personal

Up Close and Very Personal 20 Feb 2011

18 Escape.com.au

Shark dive NSW

Up close and very personal It is daunting, but you’ll be converted by a swim with sharks, writes Roderick Eime

THE DEEP: The sleek bodies of grey nurse sharks cruise the waters of Fish Rock.

I CAN see about 5m in the chilly, turbid depths, but the shadow forming in front of me is unmistakable.

Drawing closer, it gradually morphs into the nightmarish apparition that sends swimmers and divers into spasms of panic.

It’s a shark – and a big one. ‘‘Relax, stay still,’’ I tell myself and I deliberately slow my breathing, but my heart pays no attention.

It swims straight for me, mouth agape and full of teeth as sharp as

razor blades. My discomfort increases as it becomes clear the fearsome creature is not changing direction and now he’s close enough to stare at me.

He’s not cruising alone either. Two wingmen escort him in formation.

I duck for cover behind a rock in a futile attempt to hide as they cruise past within arm’s reach, our eyes locked in a steady gaze.

The slim, streamlined body is the result of 400 million years of evolution and perfectly formed, the tail barely moving as if propelled by some hidden device.

An encounter with a shark, especially one this close, is not the kind of eco-tourism experience most sensible people would crave, let alone consciously seek out.

But that’s exactly what happens every day at Fish Rock, just offshore at South West Rocks, where excited divers from around the world come to swim with the famous grey nurse sharks that gather there.

CANADA !

G N I R O L P X E P KEE DISCOVER VANCOUVER

CALGARY STAMPEDE

CANADIAN ROCKIES SELF-DRIVE

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER CANADIAN ROCKIES HIGHLIGHTS

PERSON 4 DAYS FROM $205* PER TWIN SHARE

PERSON 4 DAYS FROM $809* PER TWIN SHARE

PERSON 7 DAYS FROM $885* PER TWIN SHARE

PERSON 7 DAYS FROM $2996* PER TWIN SHARE

EXTE D YOU R SNTA Y

STAY & PLAY

58 *

$

FRE E

FROM PER PERSON PER NIGH T

Amongst the most beautiful city destinations in the world, Vancouver is a modern, multicultural coastal city, with a spectacular backdrop of snowcapped mountains.

Each July Calgary hosts “The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth� - The Calgary Stampede.

Self-Drive the Canadian Rockies, travelling through Banff & Jasper National Parks.

Travelling only by day, you will catch every detail of Western Canada’s jaw-dropping landscape.

INCLUDES 3 nights at the Sandman Hotel Vancouver #ITY #ENTRE STAR s HOUR 7ALKING 4OUR OF HISTORIC Gastown and Chinatown

INCLUDES 3 nights at the Sandman Downtown #ALGARY s 0LATINUM 2ESERVED TICKET TO AFTERNOON RODEO s 'OLD 2ESERVED SEATING FOR EVENING #HUCKWAGON 2ACES 'RANDSTAND 3HOW s 3KYRIDE OVER 3TAMPEDE 0ARK and MORE!

INCLUDES 7 days Hertz Intermediate auto car hire, PICK UP DROP OFF #ALGARY s NIGHTS IN "ANFF s NIGHTS IN *ASPER s NIGHTS IN ,AKE ,OUISE s )CE %XPLORER RIDE ONTO the Athabasca Glacier, Sulphur Mountain Gondola Ride ADMISSION TO -IETTE (OT 3PRINGS *ASPER s -APS

INCLUDES 2 days onboard the Rocky Mountaineer s NIGHTS HOTEL ACCOMMODATION s "ANFF TO ,AKE ,OUISE TOUR s ,AKE ,OUISE TO #ALGARY TOUR s 3UMMIT (ELICOPTER &LIGHTSEEING s 3ELECTED MEALS

Valid for sale to 31 Mar 11.

Valid for travel 01 – 30 Apr. Other dates available.

Valid for sale to 31 May 11.

Valid for travel 09 – 18 Jul 11.

Valid for sale to 31 Mar 11.

Valid for travel 01 – 15 May 11.

Other dates available.

Valid for sale until 31 Mar 11.

Valid for travel 01 – 28 May 11.

Other dates available.

#

FREE night in Vancouver and Day Trip #

Ask THE TRAVEL PROFESSIONALS Call

132 757

harveyworld.com.au

QUOTE 5615 WHEN BOOKING: *SOME AGENTS MAY CHARGE AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE FEE AND THESE VARY BETWEEN AGENTS. Conditions and seasonal surcharges apply. Prices are per person twin share and include savings. Prices & information are correct at time of issue and subject to availability and change at time of booking. Airfares not included. Prices for other travel dates available on application. Prices are a guide only due to dynamic hotel pricing which is subject to change at any time. Prices may fluctuate due to changes in charges, taxes and currency. Prices do not include taxes or charges collected directly by third parties. Please note a surcharge may be imposed on credit card transactions. #Rocky Mountaineer Stay & Play Free offer is valid on new bookings made until 31 Mar 11, applicable to any Rocky Mountaineer holiday package of six nights or more from the 2011 Rocky Mountaineer brochure, for travel from Apr - Oct 11. Free Vancouver accommodation matches the accommodation grade of package booked and can only be added to a Rocky Mountaineer holiday package starting or ending in Vancouver. Day trip adventure choice must be made at time of booking. Offer is capacity controlled and may be withdrawn without prior notice.

For current information on travelling overseas and official Government travel advisories visit www.smarttraveller.gov.au Ž Registered trade mark of Harvey World Travel Group Pty Limited. ^MEMBERSHIP REWARDS: Only available to Cardmembers enrolled in Membership Rewards Ascent Premium, Ascent, Choices or Blue Sky. Membership Rewards enrolment required (an annual fee may apply). Subject to the Terms and Conditions of the Membership Rewards program. American Express International, Inc. (ABN 15 000 618 208). Incorporated with limited liability in Delaware, USA. Only available at participating Harvey World Travel agencies. Each Harvey World Travel agency has its own travel agent’s licence number. Licence no. NSW 2TA002558, ACT 18800658, QLD TAG252, VIC 30204, WA 9TA284, SA TTA108.

HWT01386_B_NSW_ST

Escape.com.au

‘‘You’d have to be pretty unlucky to get a bite,’’ says divemaster Jon Cragg of Fish Rock Dive Centre. ‘‘Try poking it in the eye and sticking your hand in its mouth.’’

The grey nurse shark (carcharias taurus) has an undeserved reputation as a maneater, most likely through confusion with other species of less refined eating habits.

If I were a 5kg snapper, however, then I should be very afraid.

The biggest sharks aren’t quite 4m long, but they possess an ominous serenity that is unnerving.

The 1975 movie Jaws, with its memorable and menacing soundtrack, was quite likely the worst publicity any shark could get.

The backlash against every species the world over was horrific and many were hunted to the brink of extinction for fear they ‘‘might’’ attack.

As our collective paranoia subsides, shark conservation emerges as a cause celebre for the 21st century.

The practice of finning live sharks for soup and the netting of swimming beaches are just some of the controversial activities that have spawned recent groups such as Save Our Sharks and Shark Savers.

The 40-year-old Australian Marine Conservation Society is more forthright in their campaign. ‘‘Sharks play a vital role in healthy marine ecosystems,’’ says AMCS spokesman Ben Birt. ‘‘However, there is a worldwide trend of declining shark populations, with sharks and other big fish down to 10 per cent of their previous numbers in the last 50 years.’’

Along the NSW coast, grey nurse sharks have enjoyed total protection since 1984 and it’s one of the few places left in the world where divers can reliably swim with the grey nurse.

But legislation alone may not be enough to save them.

Fishing, netting and habitat disturbance have reduced grey nurse numbers to the point where the International Union for Conservation of Nature lists them as endangered.

As slow breeders, there is little hope they will recover their numbers any time soon.

Today there are perhaps a dozen animals cruising here in small groups, with no particular objective in mind.

They’re just hanging out. And that’s what they do.

NSW has about nine ‘‘aggregation sites’’ along the coast where the 500 or so remaining animals loiter.

Researchers have tracked single sharks along the entire coast, but they always return to their favourite site, like going on holidays.

Julian Rocks, Seal Rock, Montague Island and Magic Point near Maroubra are just some of the preferred spots for diving with these cool monsters.

Each site is a proclaimed ‘‘critical habitat’’ and comes with a set of rules such as ‘‘don’t touch’’, ‘‘don’t feed’’ and ‘‘don’t obstruct’’. Heavy penalties apply. ‘‘It’s not unusual to see 20 or more sharks gather here sometimes,’’ says Jon as we watch the video in his dive shop. ‘‘Fish Rock is certainly one of their favourite spots, probably because there are always lots of tasty fish around.’’

The grey nurse’s habit of following the sort of fish anglers love is undoubtedly part of their undoing.

One shark I see is trailing a length of line attached to a big nasty hook in one of his claspers. Ouch.

My initial fear overcome, I enjoy drifting with the sharks around the massive underwater outcrop.

Larry, my dive guide, signals me to follow him into the mouth of a cave at a depth of about 20m.

The cave is another one of the attractions at Fish Rock and soon we are in total darkness with just the beams of our flashlights to guide us.

Larry runs the light along the walls of the cave, illuminating lobsters, scary eels, wobbygongs, vividly coloured

19

CLOSE ENCOUNTER: A diver swims with grey nurse sharks off Fish Rock.

Go2

THE DEEP Swim with Sharks Fish Rock Dive Centre, South West Rocks. Daily dive excursions with all equipment, guide and tuition. Two dives $185.

Motel-style accommodation on site. www.fishrock.com.au

West Australia 411* Perth Flights + 2 Nights

$

74*

$

Perth Accommodation Great Deals

per Exclusive Western Australia deals, just like these. Selling fast - book now. room # Mountway Holiday Apartments Perth CBD, FREE 8th Night + Upgrade 74 The Marque Hotel Perth CBD, walk to shops, FREE Internet + Local Calls# 89 Assured Ascot Quays Apartments FREE Parking + Movies + Bike Hire# 177 $

*

$

* *

$

Manly Ocean World’s Shark Dive Xtreme. Aquarium dive.

Beginners $250, certified divers $185. oceanworld.myfun.com.au Stay at Heritage Guesthouse, South West Rocks. From $120 a night for two, including breakfast. www.heritageguest house.com, ph 6566 6625 (Tripadvisor 4.5) Shark Conservation: www.saveoursharks.com.au AMCS: www.amcs.org.au NSW Fisheries: www.dpi. nsw.gov.au/fisheries

shrimps, groupers and stingrays the size of card tables. It’s like being on the other side of the glass at Sea World. As we fin delicately along the narrow corridor, I realise this is not a place for claustrophobics.

But soon we have the exit in sight and the constricting passageway opens out into a yawning cavern with sharks, rays and fish of all sizes silhouetted eerily against the light like dangling mobiles in the moonlight.

Like so many imagined dangers in our lives, it’s the fear of the unknown that cripples us. Selachophobia, the fear of sharks, is like mice, moths or even cockroaches and just another unfounded animal fear.

Spend a few minutes in their realm and you’ll not only emerge unscathed, but more than likely an evangelist.

153*

$

Margaret River Accommodation Abbey Beach Resort luxury resort, great facilities, FREE Movies Quay West Resort Bunker Bay chic modern beachfront resort

#

411*

$

Perth Packages Flights + 2 Nights

Get an extra package discount. Choose when to travel, Flights + Hotel per person 2 nights 5 nights 7 nights any number of nights, lots more hotels.

Indian Ocean Hotel near beach, FREE Secure Parking 411 553 648 Rydges Perth Hotel luxury CBD hotel, FREE Transfers# 486 741 911 Duxton Hotel Perth 5 star CBD, FREE Airport Transfers# 547 900 1001 $

*

$

*

$

*

$

*

$

*

$

*

$

*

$

* $

Choose from loads of hotels & get an extra discount.

Reflections B&B romantic retreat, near Roebuck Bay Mercure Inn 4 star hotel, Roebuck Bay, great facilities Cable Beach Club Resort famous, luxury, bonuses

698

*

2 nights 5 nights 7 nights $

$

$

698 878 998 718 928 1068 846 1178 1386 *

$

*

*

$

* $

*

* $

*

* $

169

$

*

128*

$

Choose from loads of amazing summer deals, compare all options.

Blue Seas Resort Cable Beach, FREE Movies, FREE 4th or 6th & 7th Nights# Seashells Resort Broome Cable Beach, FREE 5th Night, FREE Breakfast# Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa beachfront luxury, FREE Breakfast#

per room

128 176 208

$

*

$

*

$

*

36*

$

Car Hire “No Worries” Unlim kms

Broad range of vehicle options: Audis, Subarus, 4WDs, campervanss car per day

Self-Drive Packages 3 Day Self-Drive

212*

$

Packages Include: vehicle hire (unlimited kms & comprehensive insurance), accommodation & Bonus Voucher Book. Tailor as you like, add extra nights.

Wildflowers, Kalbarri & Geraldton 3 Day Self-Drive Package 212 $

FREE Airport Transfers to most Perth properties.

FREE Perth “Welcome” Tour with 3+ nights in Perth.

FREE Cable Beach Camel Rides 3+ nights Broome.

FREE Bonus Voucher Book $500 value per couple.

842*

$

“All Inclusive” Packages 6 Days

Ram packed full of amazing value, you won’t find packages with all of these inclusions for less. Add Indian Pacific, extra nights, more tours, flights etc.

Perth “All Inclusive” 6 Day Holiday Package

5 nights superior CBD hotel • 5 buffet breakfasts • 4 delicious restaurant $ dinners • 4 luxury day tours: “Pinnacles & Wildflowers”, “Margaret River”, 842* “Fremantle” & “Perth Welcome” • Return airport transfers • Bonus Voucher Book ($500 value discounts at shops, restaurants etc). Selling fast, book now.

Indian Pacific Package 9 Days

*

$

*

$

Broome Packages Flights + 2 Nights

Broome Accommodation Hot Deals

* per $ room 153

*

Experience the spectacular Indian Ocean coastline + seasonal wildflowers.

Margaret River & Southern Discovery 5 Day Self-Drive Package * $ The complete South West experience, all major icons + seasonal wildflowers. 386 Dolphins & Kalbarri 5 Day Self-Drive Package * $ Monkey Mia, Yanchep, Pinnacles, Geraldton and New Norcia + wildflowers. 417 Bungle Bungles & Kimberley Gorges 9 Day 4WD Self-Drive Package $ * The grand Kimberley self-drive adventure - experience all Kimberley icons. 2021 *Starting cost, 2 share, low season, seasonal surcharges (& accomm min nights) may

apply. Tours, Self Drive & Flight Package costs per person. Flights ex Sydney. Conditions apply. See discoverAustralia.com for full details, inclusions, exclusions & conditions. Subject to change without notice. #Some bonuses have specific validity & extra conditions. 9TA905

Compare 1000 live deals at discoverAustralia.com Ask for your FREE 130 page West Australia Holiday Book

1920*

$

per Cruise the Nullarbor & discover Perth. Add extra tours, more nights etc. person Indian Pacific Package 9 Day Holiday Package

• Accommodation • Day Tours • Coach Tours • Safari Tours • Self Drive Packages

Gold Kangaroo Service (one way) concession • Airfare (other way) • 5 nights $ * superior city hotel • FREE airport/rail transfers • FREE Perth “Welcome” Tour 1920 • Bonus Voucher Book ($500 value discounts). Selling fast at this price.

Call 1300 790 270 bookings@discoverAustralia.com

nco