MiNDFOOD March 2020: Alto Adige - Small Wonder

D R I N K | A LT O A D I G E

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tanding on a busy street, conversation ebbs and flows on all sides – but when you listen in, you can’t help but notice something a bit unusual about the chatter. To the left, a pair speaking in crisp German suddenly shift into the emotive tones of Italian. To the right, a group gossiping in Italian begin to drop words in English.

While perhaps not what we’re used to Down Under, this is a common occurrence in Bolzano, the capital city of the Italian province of South Tyrol – also known as Alto Adige. Here, the citizens switch seamlessly between the three languages, creating an effect that (while confusing to the uninitiated) is somehow perfectly representative of this eclectic region.

Historically, Alto Adige served as something of a cultural hub, as various ethnic groups passed through on their way to other parts of Europe. However, some stayed to enrich the civilisation – diverse language groups eventually uniting to form one population.

Reflecting this mix of people and national ambiguity, visitors will hear conversations in Italian, German and English in the streets and boutiques of Bolzano (or ‘Bozen’ – if you prefer the German). While South Tyrol/Südtirol/ Alto Adige is politically Italy, the area enjoys autonomous status in deference to its turbulent history, in which it was finally annexed by Italy following the defeat of Austria-Hungary in WWI. Alto Adige is renowned for its ski fields, stunning alpine scenery (ideal for both hikers and mountain bikers), and verdant farmland – which creates a beautiful tapestry interspersed with castles and medieval church spires. But if there is one unifying enterprise that can serve as the province’s trademark, it’s wine.

SMALL WONDER

Tucked away in the mountains of northern Italy lies Alto Adige – one of Europe’s smallest wine regions. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in quality vintages, excellent dining, and gorgeous scenery.

The rolling terrain of Alto Adige ensures magnificent views – such as this one over Säben Abbey on Mount Plose.

P H O T O G R A P H Y: A L E X F I L Z / A LT O A D I G E

WOR DS BY RODE RICK E IM E & WINSOR DOB B IN

WINES OF ALTO ADIGE The province enjoys a cool, dry climate with a range of soils from sedimentary to volcanic. This unique circumstance allows for the growth of a variety of different grapes, including many unfamiliar to wine lovers from Australia and NZ. Such exotic varietals as pinot bianco, lagrein and schiava grow on 26,000 mountainous vineyards alongside more familiar grapes – such as chardonnay, merlot, cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc.

In a delightful throwback to feudal times, hundreds of families and wine producers have formed cooperatives to ensure mutual prosperity. Together they cultivate about 13,000 acres and

“JUST A FEW LABELS FROM THE AREA CAN BE FOUND ON HIGHEND WINE LISTS.”

TÖRGGELEN TRADITIONS

Autumn is the traditional season for an extravaganza of local produce, where wine growers present their new wines, the chestnuts are roasting, and in the farm bars they celebrate with traditional harvest evenings known as Törggelen. Farmers invite visitors to taste products like wines, juices, soups, vegetables, fruits and meat.

For more information on Alto Adige, visit suedtirol.info or altoadigewines.com

produce around 40 million bottles of wine every year, in roughly equal quantities of red and white.

With only very small quantities reaching our shores, Alto Adige wine is not likely to displace local options in our market any time soon. Instead, just a few labels from the area can be found on the wine lists of our high-end restaurants and sitting on the shelves of niche wine merchants. However, the delicate and soft-textured pinot bianco (aka pinot blanc and Weissburgunder) is one varietal that ought to find easy acceptance in our region. Frequently blended with chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, it makes for delightful summer drinking when chilled and is a versatile accompaniment for a range of foods.

TOP DROPS TO TRY If you’re on the hunt for Alto Adige wines, there are a few big names to look out for. Cantina Terlano, founded back in 1893, is regarded as one of the most innovative producers in the region. Try the white blend and the pinot grigio.

Alois Lageder is a regional style leader. Founded in 1823, the family-run winery is at the forefront of biodynamic and sustainable practices. Their pinot grigio and the wines made from the lagrein grape are especially good.

Tiefenbrunner is one of the oldest wine estates in the region, and is now run by fifth-generation family member Christof Tiefenbrunner. The business dates back to 1848, and both the pinot grigio and pinot bianco are stand-outs.

Cantina Kurtatsch is a collection of small growers – 190 in all, many of whom cultivate vineyards that are less than a hectare in size. The pinot noir is excellent – labelled as blauburgunder or pinot nero – while it also exports an outstanding lagrein to Australia.

St Michael-Eppan has a history dating back to 1907, and was formed when 300 small winemakers all came together. Today the label is known for producing some of Italy’s finest white wines, including stellar chardonnays in 2017 and 2018.

Cantina Girlan was founded in 1923 by a group of 23 grape growers.

Now, the co-op boasts more than 200 members, and they farm around 220 hectares of vineyards. Look out for their pinot bianco and lagrein.

TASTING THE REGION As the various Europeans converged on Alto Adige over the years, they all brought with them their traditional culinary delights – so it’s perhaps no surprise that the province’s many

restaurants now reflect this delicious diversity. Visitors can enjoy everything from home-style meals at hotels and inns, to Michelin-starred restaurants – such as chef Norbert Niederkofler’s three-star St. Hubertus, and Matteo Metullio’s two-star La Siriola.

Vegans may struggle in Alto Adige, as the German influence means dishes like schlutzkrapfen (similar to ravioli), salted meats and homemade sausages are found in abundance. Dumplings are also a popular local favourite, and are served in a wide variety of forms.

Some contain soft cheeses, while others have a filling of minced pork or venison. Be careful though – they may be little but they are very filling.

As you might expect, Italian pastas also abound, with tagliatelle, gnocchi and spaghetti dishes featured on most menus. And in addition to the more well-known pasta meals, local variations include beetroot gnocchi and pine-needle infused options.

STAY A WHILE If you’re keen to escape the tourist trap of Tuscany, why not investigate the delights of this often-overlooked province in northern Italy? The food is exceptional, the people are friendly, English is widely spoken, and there are many activities to enjoy beyond wine tasting (though that’s probably a good enough reason to visit on its own).

Choosing accommodation is easy as well. Vinum Hotels is a cooperative made up of 29 family-run hotels that are located right in the heart of the South Tyrolean wine districts, and which specialise in catering for the vino lover. Your hosts will organise everything for the complete wine week – including dining, tastings, spa sessions and sightseeing.

Self-drive is an option too, with the area’s dramatic scenery and wellmaintained roads. However, drivers will need to perfect the ‘spit’ if they are going to sample the wines.

VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM

Dreaming of a wine tasting experience but can’t get all the way to Italy? There are plenty of unforgettable wine tours closer to home – and this one has an interesting difference. mindfood.com/unique-wine-tour

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