LT44 Maldives - Star Clippers

ISSUE 44 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016

ISSUE 44 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

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Destination Maldives

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A float in the remote Words and images by Roderick Eime

The dark water is alive with hungry sharks, and I’m in the middle of this frenzy. The ravenous beasts, the bigger ones easily three metres long, jostle me as the chunks of food are doled out under the glare of a waterproof floodlight. A brave lone stingray also tries his luck while a few timid reef sharks patrol the pack’s perimeter.

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hankfully, these nocturnal sharks are not your typical man-eaters, like an understudy for Jaws. They are the big brother of Australia’s Wobbegong and clearly used to human proximity here in the waters off the Alimatha resort in the remote Maldives. Nevertheless, an inadvertent nip from any of these gregarious ‘puppy dogs’ is going to be painful.

So, what the heck am I doing here? I challenged my local guide, Teddie, to show me some sharks, and he certainly rose to the challenge. This little tale is all part of my ‘cruise’ aboard a local dhoni boat among the lesser visited regions of the Maldives.

When people think of expedition cruising, it’s easy to think it’s all about ships like the trusted and sturdy ex-Soviet oceanographic vessels through to the new wave of luxurious ‘champagne’ adventurers venturing to out to the remote corners of the world’s oceans.

Here in the Maldives, expedition cruising takes on a much more rudimentary guise in the form of these traditional local ‘dhoni’ boats.

These antique-looking wooden vessels have worked the Maldivian atolls for centuries, transporting goods and ferrying locals across the vast expanses of water that separate the inhabited islands making up this expansive oceanic republic.

Global operators, like World Expeditions, work with local boat owners to provide this fundamental, yet enriching experience here in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

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Our all-wooden vessel, the 20m ‘Gahaa’ (meaning: North Star) cruises at a leisurely eight knots between the atolls that comprise this aquatic country to the SW of Sri Lanka. Accommodation is in four twin cabins with a crew of five who look after our every need. Our ‘cruise director’ is young Teddie, who guides us on snorkelling trips out on the myriad coral reefs and enlightens us on the ways of the Maldivians who have lived, fished and traded on these flat, tropical islands for centuries.

Don’t bring your sequins or tuxedo, this is rustic, bare boat travel in the local style. If you’ve travelled on a sailing yacht or small motor cruiser, you’ll get the idea, but don’t get the notion you’ll get a turndown service and pillow chocolates.

Geographically, the Maldives are one of the most widely dispersed nations anywhere in the world, but is the smallest autonomous Asian country in terms of usable land area and population, which numbers around 400,000. The capital, Malé, occupies its own little island, on the southern edge of North Malé Atoll where the airport is located.

Flying into Malé is quite a sight as you can see the city of 150,000 people crammed edge-to-edge on this speck in the middle of the ocean.

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You can easily imagine how these people live in fear of tsunamis.

The vast majority of international visitors will land at the Ibrahim Nasir International Airport (MLE) and be whisked away by floatplane or speedboat to some platinum resort to spend their time in blissful isolation. As wonderful as these resorts are, the experience does little to expose travellers to the culture and wider environment of these vast tropical atolls*. Our modest little boat, on the other hand, can stop pretty much anywhere we like to either stroll the sandy beaches or snorkel the clear waters and reefs.

We spend our days in a blissful state relaxing on the sun decks, swimming and snorkelling with interruptions in the form of meals prepared by our resourceful cook.

Fish, salads and vegetables cooked to local recipes are delicious and healthy.

Maldivians, however, are at something of a crossroads. With the highest point of land anywhere in the country just 3m above sea level, the rising oceans threaten the very existence of these hardy people whose ethnicity and language is a unique mix of Tamil, Hindu and Arabic.

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facts: The World Expeditions 5-night dhoni adventure includes all meals, airport transfers and accommodation on board a private Dhoni on a twin share basis, tourist taxes and tour permits as well as basic snorkelling equipment with local guide and crew.

Best suited to small groups and adventurous families not adverse to close quarters. The writer travelled as a guest of World Expeditions. www.worldexpeditions.co.nz

Even their native tongue shows influences from all races and their written script is an endemic blend of the complicated-looking squiggles of each culture and language group.

The famous coral reefs of the Maldives are under the same pressures as similar reefs all around the world as ocean acidification, water warming and the many human influences take their toll on the beautiful marine formations created over millennia of slow accretion. It was a discomforting sight to see

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every remote (untended) beach strewn with floating garbage, most common among the debris being the ubiquitous single-use drink bottles which I’m sure arrive from both local and international sources.

My own observations make me wonder about the ecological balance of these reefs as larger predator species (apart from my night time experience) seem to be totally absent from the reefs we visit. Instead we see all manner of common ‘aquarium’ species,

(* the word ‘atoll’ is derived from the Maldivian language and means “circular groups of coral islets” that are most often formed by the subsidence of extinct volcanoes.)

hawksbill turtles, rays and dolphins.

The dhoni experience is certainly a contrast to that typical of most visitors and a unique way to explore local communities and the environment away from the cloistered environs of the fairytale resorts.

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Hoist the Main Sail!

Words and images by Roderick Eime

From lubber to lover, our small ship expert, Roderick Eime, gets a view from the crow’s nest on Star Clipper.

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tanding out on the slowly rolling open top deck of the four-masted barquentine, Star Clipper, the brisk Mediterranean breeze sets the loose sailcloth flapping. I reach over and grab a handful of polished mahogany railing to steady myself. The only thing missing is the BBC orchestra striking up the rousing theme from the famous ‘70’s TV series…

The Onedin Line.

The hugely popular television drama ran continuously through the 1970s, drawing huge audiences and was dubbed into several languages including German, Swedish and even Romanian. For this impressionable and imaginative youngster watching on the newest hi-tech colour television, these magnificent sailing ships sowed a seed that took decades to germinate - and here I am.

Ironically, despite its beautifully classic lines and timeless nautical design, Star Clipper was laid down in 1991, well after the last episode went to air. Her sister ship, Star Flyer, was built at the same time in the Belgian shipyard of Scheepswerven van Langerbrugge to an identical design.

To look at her with all 3,345 sqm of sail unfurled, you could easily be gazing on any number of magnificent vessels of the last 100 years and it was these vessels of the early 20th century that so enraptured a young Swedish lad, Mikael Krafft, who went on to found Star Clippers cruise line with the launch of these two ships.

Shipboard life on Star Clipper is not all deckchairs and cocktails. Time is set aside for guests to climb the mast for photos and a bit of an experience of life aboard a tall ship. Several of us lounge lazily on the bowsprit netting while others pose imperiously at the helm, but in our week at sea in the Aegean there is barely enough wind to blow out a birthday candle and much of our time is under power.

“You should have been aboard last trip,” one guest tells me while imitating waves and wind gusts with sweeping hand gestures, ”we had forty knot winds. It was great!”

So if you go aboard Star Clipper for the full ‘Onedin Line’ experience, you may be disappointed that the full rig is not unfurled, but neither will you be becalmed.

She’ll make 10 knots under power on request.

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The 85 cabins are arranged across four decks in six categories and are similar in size, and amenities, with yacht-like décor and comfort. The eight Category 1 cabins open onto the deck, but most vary only slightly in size and layout with the largest being 12sqm. The biggest distinguishing feature between categories is location on the ship. The higher the cabin category, the higher or more central they might be located on board.

All cabins feature a television, DVD player, phone, thermostat control, private safe, hair dryer, nightly turndown service and 110 volt/American outlets.

Dining turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. I’d heard mixed reports elsewhere, but I honestly found the variety and the quality hard to fault.

A typical day’s fare begins at 0630 with an early riser breakfast, followed by buffet at 0800 until 1000. Lunch is at 1200 either on deck or in the dining room. Cocktail hour at 1700 leads into dinner at 1930. Midnight snacks are served until 0100.

A random menu from Chef Rudolfo starts with thin sliced dried beef and barley salad followed by soup and sorbet. A choice of mains could include grilled salmon, duck breast or stuffed bell peppers for vegetarians. There is always an alternative like pasta or sirloin if nothing on the menu appeals.

The dining room itself can be a bit tight, especially when at its busiest, consequently it’s common for guests and serving staff to bang chairs as they squeeze between tables.

Despite there being a lot of open deck space and plenty of fresh air, it can be tricky to find somewhere to retreat for a bit of privacy besides your cabin.

One place is the library, opposite the tropical bar, but even then you can be interrupted as the senior staff like to conduct their meetings there…but that’s life on a small ship.

In between shore excursions, we are treated to quite exhaustive lectures on the history of tall ships and the ports of our sailing region, the Southern Cyclades of Greece and the western coast of Turkey. In the 19th century, the clippers were expressly designed as fast sailing ships to bring their cargoes of tea and perishables back from Far East and Orient in double quick time. The old East Indiamen would dawdle along at five knots, while the new breed of

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STAR CLIPPERS Unique Sailing Adventures

The Informal Elegance of Star Clippers

Onboard Star Clipper ships you can do everything or nothing, whenever and with whomever you please.

While the destination is always the highlight of these journeys, the sailing experience is the encore performance.

Travelling on a small ship that makes you feel like you’re on a private yacht.

Indonesia West - Bali Return

Bali - Roundtrip

Singapore to Bali or v.v

7 Nights

11 Nights

14 Nights

Onboard Star Clipper

Departs: 27 May, 8 Jul, 19 Aug, 02, 16, 30 Sep 2017 From: NZ$2839pp share twin CAT 6 - Inside cabin * Ask us about the Indonesia East alternative

Onboard Star Clipper

Onboard Star Clipper

Departs: 10 Jun, 22 Jul 2017

Departs: 6 May or 14 Oct (v.v) 2017

From: NZ$4579pp share twin CAT 6 - Inside cabin

From: NZ$5195pp share twin CAT 6 - Inside cabin

For further information see your cruise agent or contact Cruise World on 0800 500 732 or info@cruiseworld.co.nz or www.cruiseworld.co.nz Terms & Conditions: Book by 31 January 2017. Based on promotional fares which can change or be removed at any time without notice. Fares are correct at time of print and subject to availability at time of booking. Fares include port charges and government taxes. Converted from foreign currency and subject to fluctuation. Further terms & conditions apply, please ask us for details.

clippers would nudge 20 knots under ideal conditions. Like racehorses, their lives were short and furious.

Now, strictly speaking, the Star Clippers are ‘windjammers’ by dint of their steel hulls whereas the clippers, designed in the late 18th century, were timber. Consequently the windjammers survived much longer than their timber forebears and were still carrying commercial cargo up until the early postwar years. Several century-old vessels survive to this day, including a handful still in operation.

Star Clippers have gradually expanded their fleet despite some rough sailing through the GFC and have recently announced the construction of the world’s largest sailing ship for delivery in late 2017. The as-yet unnamed ship will be the line’s fourth sailing ship and will carry almost twice the amount of sail and number of guests as Star Clipper.

Not only will the added capacity allow Star Clippers to greatly increase their inventory, it will also allow the fleet to spread out around the world and explore new territories and revisit old haunts. Currently Star Clippers vessels can be found throughout the Mediterranean and Caribbean, but from December itineraries will include Asia as Star Clipper repositions to homeport from Phuket for five months.

Certainly this cruise is not for everyone, especially those used to the vast expanses of today’s megaships and all their trappings. But I can’t help thinking the exquisite coastlines and idyllic Greek island ports like Hydra and Patmos are more befitting a gorgeous vessel like Star Clipper than having her thrashed across a boiling ocean within an inch of her life.

facts: Cruise Line: Star Clippers Ship: Star Clipper Launched: 1992 Tonnage: 2,298 Passenger Decks: 4 Passenger Capacity: 170 in 85 cabins (6 inside) Crew and Staff: 72 Facilities: BBQ, outdoor bar, dining room, Piano Bar, Sun Deck, 2 Swimming Pools

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