LT38: Norfolk Island

ISSUE 38 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2015

ISSUE 38 OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2015

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

NORFOLK ISLAND Revisited

THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

Bonjour AKAROA TAIWAN Treasures Gold Country CALIFORNIA

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Norfolk Island

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19th century:

Early history

N

orfolk Island was first settled

by East Polynesian seafarers either from the Kermadec Islands north of New Zealand or from the North Island of New Zealand itself. They arrived in the thirteenth or fourteenth century, and survived for several generations before disappearing.

The first European known to have sighted the island was Captain James Cook, in 1774, on his second voyage to the South Pacific on the HMS Resolution. He named it after Mary Howard, Duchess of Norfolk (c 1712 – 1773). Sir John Call argued the advantages of Norfolk Island in that it was uninhabited and that New Zealand flax grew there. In 1786 the British government included Norfolk Island as an auxiliary settlement, as proposed by John Call, in its plan for

colonisation of New South Wales.

The decision to settle Norfolk Island was taken due to Empress Catherine II of Russia’s decision to restrict sales of hemp. Practically all the hemp and flax required by the Royal Navy for cordage and sailcloth was imported from Russia.

When the First fleet arrived at Port Jackson in January 1788, Governor Arthur Phillip ordered Lieutenant Philip Gidley King to lead a party of 15 convicts and seven free men to take control of Norfolk Island and prepare for its commercial development. They arrived on the 6th March 1788.

During the first year of the settlement, which was also called “Sydney” like its parent, more convicts and soldiers were sent to the island from New South Wales.

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As early as 1794, Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales Francis Grose suggested its closure as a penal settlement, as it was too remote and difficult for shipping and too costly to maintain. The first group of people left in February 1805, and by 1808 only about 200 remained, forming a small settlement until the remnants were removed in 1813. A small party remained to slaughter stock and destroy all the buildings, so that there would be no inducement for anyone, especially from other European powers, to visit and lay claim to the place. From the 15th February 1814 to the 6th June 1825 the island was completely abandoned.

In 1824 the British government instructed the then Governor of New South Wales, Thomas Brisbane, to occupy Norfolk Island as a place to send “the worst description of convicts”. Its remoteness, previously seen as a disadvantage, was now viewed as an asset for the detention of recalcitrant male prisoners. The convicts detained have long been assumed to be a hardcore of recidivists, or ‘doubly-convicted capital respites’ – that is, men transported to Australia who committed fresh colonial crimes for which they were sentenced to death, and were spared the gallows on condition of life at Norfolk Island. However, a recent study has demonstrated, utilising a database of 6,458 Norfolk Island convicts, that the reality was somewhat different: more than half were detained on Norfolk Island without ever receiving a colonial conviction, and only 15% had been reprieved from a death sentence.

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A rolling Foodie festival

By Roderick Eime (with additional contributions by Winsor Dobbin)

the island. In 1920 the Mission was relocated from Norfolk Island to the Solomon Islands to be closer to the population of focus.

Post-nineteenth century:

Furthermore, the overwhelming majority of convicts sent to Norfolk Island had committed non-violent property sentences, and the average length of detention was three years.

The second penal settlement began to be wound down by the British government after 1847, and the last convicts were removed to Tasmania in May 1855. The island was abandoned (again) because transportation from the United Kingdom to Van Diemen’s Land had ceased in 1853, to be replaced by penal servitude in the UK instead.

On the 8th June 1856, the next, and probably most (in)famous settlement began on Norfolk Island.

These were the descendants of Tahitians and the HMS Bounty

mutineers, including those of Fletcher Christian. They resettled from Pitcairn Island, which had become too small for their growing population. They left Pitcairn on the 3rd May 1856 and arrived with 194 persons on the 8th June. The Pitcairners occupied many of the buildings remaining from the penal settlements, and gradually established traditional farming and whaling industries on the island.

Although some families decided to return to Pitcairn in 1858 and 1863, the island’s population continued to grow. They accepted additional settlers, who often arrived with whaling fleets.

In 1867, the headquarters of the Melanesian Mission of the Church of England was established on

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After the creation of the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901, Norfolk Island was placed under the authority of the new Commonwealth government to be administered as an external territory. During World War II, the island became a key airbase and refuelling depot between Australia and New Zealand, and New Zealand and the Solomon Islands.

Since Norfolk Island fell within New Zealand’s area of responsibility it was garrisoned by a New Zealand Army unit known as N Force, at a large camp, which had the capacity to house a 1,500 strong force. The island proved too remote to come under attack during the war and N Force left the island in February 1944.

In 1979, Norfolk was granted limited self-government by Australia, under which the island elects a government that runs most of the island’s affairs.

In 2006, a formal review process took place, in which the Australian government considered revising this model of government. The review was completed on the 20th December 2006, when it was decided that there would be no changes in the governance of Norfolk Island.

Kingston aerial view

T

here are no chain hotels, global fast-food restaurants, public transport or traffic lights – and only one roundabout.

In days gone by, the attractions of Norfolk Island may have been more pedestrian. Simple sight-seeing and shopping tours for the grey-rinse set were all the rage. But now, this boutique destination is taking on a whole new persona thanks to its wholesome, free-range and organic approach to food.

Not that it ever was a grand plan.

It’s just the way it’s always been done on this remote and isolated island with geology much like New Zealand, complete with rich and fertile volcanic soil that can grow pretty much anything.

Because it is never cold here, tropical fruits like bananas and guavas thrive. There are small farmers’ markets selling fresh local produce, several very good restaurants with a local focus, a winery – and even a local liqueur producer.

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Wild mushrooms are keenly sought after by foragers.

The markets are held on Saturday mornings next to the Visitor Information Centre – just half a dozen stalls with fresh fruits, vegetables and dishes made using local Norfolk Island Blue beef. On Sundays there is an arts and crafts market – the ideal place to pick up a local memento or two.

The best restaurants include casual Dino’s at Bomboras (where the pizzas are excellent), Norfolk Island Blue, where the focus is on beef grown on the owners’ farm, and the excellent Hilli Restaurant and Wine Bar, where you can eat indoors or al fresco. The Rock is a very good steak and seafood restaurant, while La Perouse serves French-accented cuisine and Bailey’s features terrific lunch specials.

Good local lunch spots include The Olive Cafe, the bustling Golden Orb (which is also a bookshop and is set in a sub-tropical garden) and Sublime Cafe. Make sure to sample locally produced cheese from the Christian Bothers (yes, that really is their name). John Christian’s specialty is block feta rolled in semolina and cooked in a pan with whole olives and slivered almonds, then drizzled with local honey and lemon juice while still in the pan.

Another dining hot spot is The Blue Bull Cafe Restaurant, baby brother to the award-winning Norfolk Blue Restaurant. And yes, Norfolk Blue is a thing. This unusual breed is a result of Belgian cattle stock imported in the 1850s, which has now developed into Norfolk’s signature breed of which there are about 1,000 head on the island. About 350 roam free along the roadways, while another 600 odd are on private land - about 50 each year are ‘processed’ for local consumption.

Located in the heart of Burnt Pine township and featuring Norfolk Blue beef on its menu, this new licensed eatery specialises in all things fresh and local.

Foodies are also well catered for with the Norfolk Island Blue beef, boutique cheeses from the Christian Brothers and a cooking school at Mastering Taste Chef School and Garden Tour, where students can

“This is Norfolk’s staple fish,” says Gil, “it pretty much feeds the island.

But in the last few years we’ve been trying out more deep sea techniques and locations.”

The rest of the fish we catch are either rock or tomato cod, but these are back over the side after I have a quick lesson in fish identification.

With some of these locations, especially the deeper ones, you can find the game fish, which the boys can help you catch on one of their full day game or sports charters. “.... bigger stuff like snapper, trevally, kingfish, large bass, mahi mahi, yellowfin tuna and marlin.”

Gil assures me. “The kingfish are a real treat, and we’re catching more of them now with our new techniques.”

Looking at Gil’s electronic fishfinder, he has hundreds of spots marked all around the bottom half of the island, and we progress from one to the next reeling in decent sized fish with unerring regularity.

Family walking in national parks

pick many of the ingredients from the potager.

Also check out the tasting rooms at Norfolk Island Liqueurs, where local fruits are used in products made in a German still; including macadamia nut, guava and banana liqueurs, beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. Also make time to visit the Anson Bay coffee plantation of Fred Wong, who also offers tastings and tours.

Norfolk Island may not be the best place to start your diet, but it’s a fabulous cavalcade of healthy eating nonetheless.

Fishing:

Take it from me, one of the world’s all-time worst fishermen, if you can’t catch a fish on Norfolk Island, then you’re really in trouble.

After launching the little 7m

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twin-hull runabout in the usual ceremony at the communal crane on the Kingston (southern) pier, we’re into the rich fishing grounds just a few minutes to the south and southwest of the island proper.

My ‘fisho’ hosts for the day are the tearaway brothers, Gilbert and Troy Jackson who run Jackson’s Fishing Charters. Gil and Troy also supply many of the shops and restaurants around town with their prize catch, most of the time comprising the abundant ‘trumpeter’, known in other parts as ‘sweetlip’ or ‘redthroat emperor’ but identified as Lethrinus miniatus in the science books. This fish can be kept at lengths above 38cm, but double that size is not uncommon. Believe me, you know when you’re trying to haul in a 4kg fish that has no intention of giving up without a fight.

The bin is nearly full in a couple of hours and that’s our limit for the day under the island’s self-regulatory code – a code that clearly works, because there is no shortage of fish.

I’m promised crumbed fillet and fries for dinner.

Below the waves:

On my previous trip to Norfolk Island four years ago, I scuba dived with a local operator who has since wound back activities. But on further enquiry, I learn that the equipment is still on the island and there are opportunities for scuba divers as long as they notify the tourism office in advance. The location provides some of the clearest water anywhere you will find thanks to the Norfolk Islanders’ clean habits and the lack of river runoff. Divers can explore complex underwater rock formations teeming with fish and quite often observe large pelagic fish and even sharks. Don’t worry though Norfolk Island has yet to experience their first shark attack.

Colleen McCullough’s House: There’s a faint waft of tobacco smoke drifting in from the back room as we’re greeted at the entrance to this most significant home on Norfolk Island. It’s both enchanting and a little bit spooky to think her powerful character still permeates the halls and corridors.

The former residence of this acclaimed author, neuroscientist and larger-than-life personality has been something of a secret until the passing of the great lady in January of this year.

Her partner, Ric Robinson, made the decision to allow visitors into the ground floor of the home where McCullough’s office and library are housed as well as the kitchen and lavishly decorated living areas that hark to a time of outrageous psychedelia.

The tours are organised by Les Quintal, also our driver and manager for Baunti Escapes, who have the exclusive right to conduct these tours.

Bringing history to life... ...At the Norfolk Island Museum Located in World Heritage Listed Kingston

Our Museum Pass includes multiple entries to all four museums as well as two guided tours & morning tea. Adults: $25. School age children free.

The Trial of the Fifteen

An historical drama performed every Wednesday at the Ferny Lane Theatre. Adults: $25. Children under 12: $12.50

For Whom the Bell Tolls

Cemetery Tour. Tuesday & Friday. Adults: $20 or $15 when purchased with a museum pass. School age children: free with adult

Tickets & Bookings:

For bookings please phone us on +(6723) 23788 or +(6723) 23088 or email info@museums.gov.nf

Like us on Facebook! www.museums.gov.nf

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Les was one of McCullough’s closer friends, helping her build and extend some of the residence. Meeting us in the foyer is Rebecca, perhaps the last remaining member of McCullough’s staff, who tended her in the final years.

Apart from the eye-assaulting décor that spoke volumes for McCullough’s extreme individualism, it’s the untold stories that taunt us.

Clearly this unofficial monarch of Norfolk Island possessed a forthright character that left a lasting impression on everyone, meek and mighty, who she came in contact with.

We gawk shamelessly at the outrageous Florence Broadhurst wallpaper and the Cherry Phillips glasswork. Phillips also worked on designs for Parliament House,

Canberra, while Broadhurst’s own mysterious life and demise only adds mystique to the already expressive walls.

Dinner parties with the wealthy and influential friends like Francis Ford Coppola and the Duke of Norfolk, would have been quite an occasion. But even as the raucous banter was reaching a crescendo, and McCullough had had enough, she would unashamedly announce, “Thanks everyone, it’s f..k off time” and she would promptly exit to begin her nightly writing routine.

One of the highlights is certainly McCullough’s ‘scriptorium’, where the well-worn IBM golfball typewriter sits in pride of place, surrounded by her personal minutiae, ubiquitous ashtray and many writing aids. The adjourning door leads to a small

but densely packed library, full of resource material and many rare and valuable volumes.

The temptation to take photos is overwhelming, but alas, we are not permitted to take pictures inside the house, instead we are obliged to consume the surroundings in our mental repository.

Rebecca leads us through the meticulous kitchen where everything was over-organised and labelled as any self-respecting scientist would have it. McCullough was notoriously pedantic about food preparation and her prescriptive diet which contained “not a lot of greenery”.

Even without photos, you are left with a distinct and permanent insight into the character of this formidable woman who adorned her living areas with paintings and art of whatever the heck pleased her. Whether it was the generously proportioned physique of the subject supposed to have inspired ‘Tim’ or the somewhat immodestly posed damsel, euphemistically dubbed, “Miss Pussy”.

Success, according to McCullough, was the ability to “tell anyone in the world to get stuffed”.

Shopping:

It’s true, the shopping attraction of Norfolk island is not what it used to be but some features of the retail experience remain mainly due to the

absence of Australian Government taxes and duties applied on the mainland, making Norfolk Island something of a tax free haven.

Browse a decent range of alcoholic beverages, including wines, spirits and liqueurs, many of them produced locally on the island from natural products. Visit the Island’s Liquor Bond situated near the Post Office on Taylors Road in Burnt Pine’s town centre.

Many items, attracting discounts of 30%, are offered to visitors, so be sure to take your passport and air ticket. The Liquor Bond is open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm.

Wednesday and Saturday from 9.30 am to 1pm.

More than 70 specialty shops on Norfolk sell a diverse range of quality merchandise such as shoes, clothes, jewellery, apparel, sporting goods and toys.

One of the more quirky items you can seek out on Norfolk is Lego.

For many years, the outlet in Burnt Pine’s central shopping district and out near the botanic garden have had a disproportionate abundance of the colourful little building bricks.

Even though sales volumes may have fallen, the proprietors have maintained a lasting relationship with the Lego factory, enabling them to more than compete with any newcomers.

Accommodation:

Tintoela is Norfolk Island’s boutique luxury retreat. The island-style homestead and two cottages each offer world-class design, craftsmanship and story-book ocean views. Located just five minutes from town, stunning beaches and myriad of walking trails, it unfolds across four acres of manicured hilltop. Bright and sophisticated, when combined with breathtaking ocean views and lush fruit filled gardens, Tintoela truly becomes the most serene refuge you can imagine.

Ideal for a couple on a romantic getaway or a pair of friends looking to catch up, Kushu Cottage is a delightful one bedroom. Though the ocean beckons from every room, it is often the private patio, surrounded by tropical gardens and ocean beyond that leaves you feeling you’ve found your own private paradise. Tintoela, meaning “sweet heart” in the Norfolk language, has long been the destination of choice for honeymooners and romantics alike.

Beach-house beautiful is Hilli Cottage in a nutshell. The bright, open plan, high ceilinged two-bedroom is a haven for small families or groups of friends. Gabled windows reveal glimpses of young Norfolk Island pines shooting for the skies.

facts: Air New Zealand operates direct flights to Norfolk Island from Auckland, Brisbane and Sydney Airports. www.airnewzealand.co.nz Norfolk Island offers an array of fascinating activities and adventures in a beautiful setting. www.norfolkisland.com.au

Lush gardens of native plants frame the cottage yet it is the view, majestically suspended in front, that will surely take your breath away.

Hunky’s Homestead blends the best of Norfolk Island architecture with the subtle elegance of sophisticated living, offering stunning views from every window and from the 360° degree verandah.

Ideally suited to large families or groups of friends, the six-bedroom Homestead is the most spacious accommodation on Norfolk, perfect for spending holiday time together while still ensuring you can always find your moment of serenity.

Packages available for an island wedding, family reunion, yoga retreat or conference. So put your feet up on your private verandah and allow the beautiful ocean breeze to cleanse your soul. You’ve arrived in paradise for a holiday you will never forget!

Emily Bay from Lone Pine

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Your gateway to fiji and beyond

WELLINGTON

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Calendar of Events January • • • •

Wearable Arts Norfolk Ocean Challenge Painting & Art Workshop Popular Time for Weddings

February

• Clay Target Shoot • Bowls Tournament • Veterans Golf Tournament

March

• Foundation Day • Line Dancing Festival

April

• • • •

July

ANZAC Day NI Annual Triathlon Quilt Retreat Veteran’s Tennis

May

• Country Music Festival • Bounty Bowls Tournament

June • • • •

Bounty Day Ballroom Dancing Festival Archery Championships Croquet Tournament

October

• Christmas in July • Painting Workshop

• October Quilters Getaway • Masters Squash Tournament

August

November

September

December

• Golf Classic PRO-AM • Triples Bowls Tournament • Red Hatters Gathering

• Scrabble Festival • Theatre Festival

• • • •

Thanksgiving Day Photography Workshop Governor's Cup Tournament Norfolk Island Food Festival

• Norfolk Island Jazzes it Up • Christmas Pageant • Pistol Shoot Tournament

Direct flights to Fiji from 3 gateways in New Zealand: Auckland to Nadi Daily / Auckland to Suva Fridays and Mondays Wellington to Nadi twice weekly from 25 June 2015, Thursdays and Sundays Christchurch to Nadi twice weekly from 23 June 2015, Tuesdays and Saturdays For more information call 0800 800 178 or visit FIJIAIRWAYS.COM

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Prices are per person twin. Subject to availability. Valid for travel 1 June - 30 Sep 15. Car hire: includes comprehensive vehicle insurance fee. Information correct at time of printing. New bookings only.

P.O Box 211, Norfolk Island, 2899. South Pacific p + 6723 23310 f + 6723 22708 freecall (Aust): 1800 214 603 freecall (NZ): 0800 NORFOLK

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