LT40: Sinking my teeth into Groote - Adventures in Melanesia

Destination Solomon Islands

Adventures in Melanesia Expedition cruiser, Roderick Eime, recalls his voyage through some of the last uncharted waters of Melanesia.

E

ver since the first Europeans set eyes on the islands of Melanesia, they have never ceased to draw explorers, adventurers and now travellers to their tropical delights.

The Spanish navigator, Álvaro de Mendaña y Neira, is widely credited as the first European to contact the Solomon Islanders. In fact it was he who named the islands Islas Salomón in 1568, in an attempt to talk up the prospects of gold in these new lands.

Meanwhile, his homesick deputy, Pedro de Ortega Valencia, named the island of Guadalcanal after his home town in Andalusia. The Spanish also named San Cristobal and Santa Ana, but local names are now also used just as frequently.

It was in early 1789 when two ships of French explorers and scientists, La Boussole and L’Astrolabe, led by the progressive Jean François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse foundered on Vanikoro in the far eastern region of the Solomons. No survivors, if there were any, were ever found.

In the mid-19th Century, the British arrived via missionaries and settled for good, while in 1908 the swashbuckling author and journalist, Jack London, made landfall at Guadalcanal and spent several weeks there waiting for parts to repair his yacht, Snark.

Now 21st Century adventurers are taking the place of the explorers of the early modern era and most of these can be found aboard the growing fleet of expedition ships searching out new and exciting destinations throughout the world.

Of course, South Pacific cruising in places like Fiji have been on the menu for decades, resuming in serious fashion in the post-war years thanks to mail contracts served by the likes of P&O with their liners Himalaya and Orcades. The demand from tourists quickly saw these sailings evolve from mail and freight to pure pleasure cruises to the point we find ourselves today.

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But it’s these new adventure ships that are reawakening the islands of Melanesia to the new wave of environmentally conscious, nature-loving travellers who are revelling in the raw experiences delivered by such nations as PNG, the Solomons and Vanuatu.

I’ve just returned from yet another cruise throughout the region where I had the chance to explore many new islands missed on previous voyages. This time I travelled with Christchurch-based Heritage Expeditions, one of the world’s small ship cruise operators best known for naturalist trips as far afield as the Russian Far East and the depths of East Antarctica, where I travelled with them in the 2010/11 season.

Their ship, the 72m Spirit of Enderby, is a former Soviet oceanographic research vessel (some like to imagine a ‘spy’ ship) carrying just 50 passengers. Perfect for creeping into narrow passages and delivering passengers ashore at tiny islands where little or no infrastructure exists.

The beauty of such encounters is that this type of travel permits visits to remote communities otherwise isolated and excluded from regular tourism, giving them the motivation to preserve traditional culture and traditions craved by these newly awakened visitors.

Heritage Expeditions, as a point of difference, dedicate much of their time to ‘birders’ and are one of the very few such cruise operators with this specialisation.

“There is no gainsaying that the Solomons are a hard-bitten bunch of islands. On the other hand, there are worse places in the world. But to the new chum who has no constitutional understanding of men and life in the rough, the Solomons may indeed prove terrible.” Jack London, The Cruise of the Snark, 1911

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Every morning, often before dawn, our contingent of devoted twitchers would head off into the jungle, binoculars at the ready, in search of the sought after endemic species like flycatchers, honeyeaters and parrots. The rest of us could ‘sleep in’ and go ashore after a hearty breakfast.

Our expedition leader, and co-owner of the family company, is Aaron Russ, a chap whose youthful disposition belies his many years of experience leading groups in the world’s remote territories, particularly the polar regions. His father, Rodney, first secured the little Russianflagged ship for expedition cruises more than 20 years ago.

“Heritage Expeditions has been operating ship-based birding trips through the Melanesian islands for 10 years now,” says Aaron, “ We have had great success and brought more than 500 international birders through the islands in this time.”

But birding is only one feather in the Heritage cap, if you’ll excuse the obvious pun. From our departure in Honiara until our arrival in Port Vila 12 days later, we’d visit numerous communities and uninhabited islands where many of the younger inhabitants, I’m certain, had never seen Europeans before.

Upon our arrival at each location, we were feted and celebrated like royalty which, by the way, they are not totally unfamiliar with as both Queen Elizabeth and Prince William have visited in the past.

The Queen, coincidentally, also arrived by small ship when the Royal

facts: For further information and bookings on all available itineraries in Melanesia, please consult expedition cruise specialists, Wild Earth Travel www.wildearth-travel.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Heritage Expeditions with assistance from Solomon Airlines and Air Vanuatu. www.visitsolomons.com.sb

Yacht Britannia made her only call to the Solomon Islands at Makira (San Cristobal) Island in 1974.

It’s hard to recall every highlight along the way, but the many traditional

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dances and ceremonies performed for our benefit have created lasting memories. In particular the colourful celebration of red feather money on Nendö Island and the mystical rom dances on Vanuatu’s seldom visited volcanic island of Ambryn come quickly to mind.

The Solomon Islands are gaining a reputation among the world’s more intrepid surfers, with many of these celebrated breaks occurring off far flung beaches at the very limit of the transport network, sometimes beyond.

On the same island visited by HRH, are the villages of Tora and Namamrau at Star Harbour. Some years ago, a band of visiting Aussie surfers introduced the local lads to the thrill of wave riding. Now, after considerable trial and error with design and construction, the young beach bums fashion rudimentary boards from sago palm wood and plunge fearlessly into the surf on these ‘jungle planks’.

As travellers become increasingly worldly and sophisticated in their tastes for new adventures and destinations, Melanesia presents some of the most enriching opportunities for those cruise companies wishing to create truly exceptional itineraries for their passengers. Just like the explorers of bygone times, these largely unspoiled islands deliver an equivalent experience, except modern adventurers can safely count on returning home to enthrall family and friends with their discoveries.

So Solomons,

So Different !

Explore the hidden paradise of the South Pacific, an archipelago comprising a vast group of 992 breathtaking tropical islands.

Feel the spirit of adventure and enjoy your own special piece of paradise - dive, fish, surf, hike, kayak or simply relax and discover a culture with a welcoming smile.

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT:

Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau PO Box 321, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands call (677) 22442 or email info@sivb.com.sb

www.visitsolomons.com.sb

www.facebook.com/VisitSolomonIslands

I S L A N D S

Free Meals... Free Drinks... Free Headsets... 23kg Baggage allowance... ...Every Passenger, Every Flight.

Air Vanuatu - The ONLY airline providing business class seats between Auckland and Port Vila.

The ONLY airline offering convenient middle day arrivals and departures at Auckland every Wednesday , Saturday & Sunday* ensuring connections to and from all NZ domestic airports. The ONLY airline offering fantastic childrens fares!

We know our place better than anyone * Sunday flight shared with Air New Zealand

airvanuatu.com www.vanuatu.travel

Destination Northern Territory, Australia

Sinking my teeth into Groote Our clumsy fisherman, Roderick Eime, finds plenty to get excited about on Groote Eylandt.

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B

ang! I’m on.

Even clumsy fishos like me will know the satisfying tug of a healthy game fish when it latches on…and so the fight begins.

“Get ‘im in!” Nick urges me as I fumble with the reel. I haven’t put on my gimbal belt, so the end of the rod starts to dig into my tender bits as I struggle to land what I’m certain is my biggest fish ever.

Nick Darby is my professional fish guide and younger half of the father-and-son team who manage the sport fishing operations here at Groote Eylandt Lodge in Northern Territory’s Gulf of Carpentaria.

“Don’t back off, keep the line tight!“ Whatever it is, it has plenty of life in it as I pull on the rod and reel it in a couple of metres at a time. Nick has the net and the gaff hook ready and seems almost about to leap over the side with his weapons to get this monster on board.

A flash of silver teases me in the clear waters below as the excited animal fights to the last. But then, all of a sudden, the agitated antics of my fish are gone and I’m left with a massive deadweight, like I’ve hooked a refrigerator.

“Bugger!” is not what Nick said, but it was a loud expression of disappointment all the same and he took the reel from me to land whatever had taken over my lure.

A couple of minutes later, I could see what it was - and it was angry.

A shark, perhaps two metres, had taken the fish before I could get it close enough to the boat.

“You have to be quick,” Nick reminded me. “These guys will have your fish as quick as a flash.”

So, in the space of the next hour we managed to land a couple of 10+kg GTs (giant trevally), a queenfish or two and the odd decent snapper and nanoguy. We keep the last two for the kitchen, but the queenies and GTs go back.

Annoyed as I am that we lose so many fish to sharks, I am buoyed by the knowledge that so many sharks and fish is the sign of a very healthy marine ecosystem.

Now I have to confess, despite numerous golden opportunities over the years, I’m still a dunce when it comes to fishing but here in the waters off Groote, the fish are so keen, you have to bait your hook behind a tree. And even if the ravenous whaler sharks get every second one, there’s still plenty in the tub at day’s end.

Groote Eylandt Lodge is located just outside the only substantial township on Australia’s fourth largest island, at Alyangula, where

the big bulk carriers tie up to load their cargo of manganese ore every couple of days. This valuable, coal-like metal has been mined here since 1964 and is a vital ingredient in modern steel making. Royalties are paid to the local Anindilyakwa Land Council (ALC) and some of these funds are used for community projects and developments like Groote Eylandt Lodge.

Right now, any slack in the lodge’s capacity is taken up by the FIFO boys who rotate through Darwin, so there’s always a healthy crowd at the bar and in-house Seagrass Restaurant which, by the way, is more than happy to cook your prize catch for dinner.

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Nick and his dad, Andrew, won the contract to operate the game fishing and maintain the two, state-of-the-art, twin 150hp power boats, custom built in the USA and decorated with local indigenous motifs.

Now, while fishing may be the big drawcard, it’s certainly not the only thing going for Groote Eylandt and the lodge. Nick introduces me to Scott Wurramarrba, a minor mountain of a bloke with a barbed wire beard and a shearer’s handshake. He’s the real deal.

“The nose is a bit of a giveaway,” he jokes, pointing to a large, but unusually slender nasal appendage.

“My dad was Greek.”

With that we jump in the ute and head off for a tour of the island and the indigenous sites. Scott’s trusty dog, Lady, takes her place in the back seat. Groote Eylandt, as I was about to learn, is home to some of most sought after East Arnhem Land traditional art.

We make a beeline for a rock art cave site, which Scott confesses is older than anybody knows. It’s a well-documented site and sign-posted from the road and currently well clear of any mining operations.

“Sometimes I just come here and chill out,” Scott says, his piercing eyes surveying the scene. “The connection with country is strong here and after an hour or so just being quiet, I feel quite…um…energised.”

The roof of the cave is vast and covered almost to every corner with all manner of depiction. Dugong, crocodiles, dolphins, turtles and fish are painted in vivid ochres,

interspersed with canoes and figures hunting.

My ad-hoc tour includes glimpses of the townships and some of the remote settlements made up of just a few shacks and shanties. Scott relates some of the clan stories to me as we drive.

facts: Groote Eylandt Lodge, managed

by Metro Hotels, has 60 waterfront cabins and bungalows overlooking the bay. Deluxe and Business Cabins are the choice with spa baths and private balconies.

The lodge also provides business and meeting facilities, a wellness spa, gym and a swimming pool. www.grooteeylandtlodge.com.au

Nearby, guests can play a round on the 9-hole golf course or swim in the community pool. A small shopping village is located in Alyangula centre.

Airnorth flights from Darwin to Groote Eylandt (GTE) take approximately 1.5 hours. On arrival there is a lodge shuttle service (charges apply). www.airnorth.com.au

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“Sure, there are some things we need to sort out as a community,” he says candidly. ”But as you can see, there’s plenty here to work with.

There are other sites too, but I can’t show you those. Sorry.”

Adjacent to the lodge is the Anindilyakwa Arts and Crafts centre where superb bark paintings and the most exquisite and intricate woven items are displayed…and for sale.

I catch centre manager, Lorna Martin, as she’s packing some large pieces into her 4WD to deliver to an excited buyer.

“We’re working hard on an artist development program,” she says, “which mostly means making sure the many talented artists here have access to good materials and somewhere comfortable to sit and do their work.”

While Groote may have its challenges, the 16 local Anindilyakwa clans have a secure financial base with which to develop not only the lodge and its many offerings, but robust cultural experiences that can stand on their own.

And remember, even if by some miracle you do not catch a fish on Groote, it’s still a far better day than any you’ll spend in the office!

Did you know?

Groote Eylandt, meaning ‘large island’, owes its unusual spelling to the archaic Dutch language used by explorer Abel Tasman when he charted the island in 1644.

At 2,285 square kilometres, Groote is the fourth largest coastal island of Australia and is surrounded by waters protected by indigenous treaty.

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