LT48: The Hell of Devil's Island

ISSUE 48 JUNE/JULY 2017

ISSUE 48 JUNE/JULY 2017

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

Cruising with PONANT CRUISES MARLBOROUGH’S Lochmara Lodge Great Walks of AUSTRALIA

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771176

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$9.95 inc GST

HAWAI’I The Big Island

The Hell of Devil’s Island Words & images Roderick Eime

On a luxury Caribbean expedition, a remote and crumbling French colonial prison reminds our writer of less happy times.

Le Soleal navigates the Breves Narrow in North-East Brazil

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The thick stone walls create a space not much bigger than a sarcophagus. A tiny barred window, too high for me to see out of, provides the only light and air, and can be boarded up to increase the punishment and already stifling isolation. Such was the lot for thousands of unfortunate (and inconvenient) French prisoners on one of the most barbaric penitentiaries in history.

Anyone of a certain age will recall the 1973 movie “Papillon” where characters played by Steve McQueen and (a young) Dustin Hoffman are transported by ship to a distant tropical island that was anything but paradise. Our visit to the so-called ‘Devil’s Islands’, 15kms off the coast of French Guiana, confirmed that this hell-hole was every bit a reality.

Who cruises Ponant and why?

Monastery of St. Benedict, Northern Brazil

Steve McQueen in the classic 1973 movie Papillon

Ponant’s luxury expedition ship, Le Soleal, anchors a short tender ride from the southernmost point of L’Ile Royale, the largest of the three islands that make up this group. Covering 21 hectares, two points rise to a maximum of almost 50 metres and contain the most prominent structures of this God-forsaken outpost.

There are more than 20 visitoraccessible sites on the island, which include a hospital, convict cells, warders’ mess (now a small hotel) and various ancillary buildings.

Restoration of a few buildings has been completed, but other works appear to have stalled and there are discarded materials everywhere.

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Furry agouti (large jungle rodents about the size of a small dog) scamper about the lawns gnawing at the fallen coconuts, an activity they have become most proficient at. Deeper in the undergrowth, a population of capuchin monkeys squeak and scurry among the leaf litter and hang off vines. These cute, docile little primates will politely approach guests to enquire about treats like apples and nuts. One tiny monkey kept us amused for several minutes as he twitched and flinched at the strange taste of a kiwifruit, although the foreign flavours did not deter him from devouring every… single…piece.

It’s always an interesting survey to chat to small ship passengers aboard any of the world’s diverse fleet of expedition and boutique ships and Ponant follows a similar pattern to that genre of softer adventure vessels offering higher levels of onboard amenities and comforts.

The make-up is cosmopolitan but predictably skewed toward French nationals. Our Anglophone contingent, of about 10%, comprises over-50s Australians, Brits, Germans, Americans and a couple from Hong Kong. It would be fair to call them either ‘well to do’ or ‘financially comfortable’. No one is telling me they’ve scrimped and saved to be aboard. They understand you get what you pay for, and believe me they expect it too.

Despite our small number, all announcements and printed material is in both French and English. Hotel staff, lecturers and crew are either fluent in English or sufficiently bilingual to converse without hesitation.

In contrast to many of the ‘purist’ expedition ships, our passengers have considerably more experience on conventional ‘white ships’. They enjoy the comfortable offerings like semi-formal and flexible dining, superior cabin fittings and décor as well as ample public spaces like swanky bars and lounges. It’s the smaller ship, fewer numbers and more intimate atmosphere that is a consistent comment among our group when citing Ponant among their brag-bag.

“It’s friendly and generally a good mix of passengers,” says Liz from Sydney, a former Orion passenger on her third voyage with Ponant, now shunning the larger ships, “The variety of destinations and excellent excursions top it off.”

Nicholas, an ex-pat Brit from Hong Kong, loves to “stack ‘em up” and frequently sails back-to-back voyages. He and his wife have an astonishing seven Ponant cruises lined up…for this year alone.

“We love to sail Ponant and when I apply all my loyalty discounts and early booking bonuses, I can get quite a saving,” he says, “and the excursions cater for all levels of activity and ability, so there’s always something for you even if you’re not feeling particularly energetic.”

Margaret and Neil (from Perth) have eight Ponant cruises under their belt and Neil has developed a special relationship with Eric the sommelier. Many a wink is exchanged before a special bottle of Bordeaux is brought to the table. Although Margaret cites the itineraries, ship and excursions as her priority criteria, clearly Neil has an affinity with the French grape and Eric’s comprehensive cellar.

Now just to dispel that hackneyed cliché about travelling with Americans, Sue and Dennis are third-timers from Arizona and have seamlessly grafted themselves on to the antipodean clique. Dennis is a big fan of the all-inclusive policy, not because he’s a conspicuous consumer, but rather the peace of mind knowing there are no surprises come check out time. Sharp and inquisitive, Sue thrives on the enrichment given during expedition outings and lectures given

by Ponant’s expert team.

As this is my third time aboard Ponant, it’s now easy to see the attraction for those of a certain ilk. Dress code is chic but not ostentatious with an emphasis on comfort and practicality. Without too much exception, guests are worldly and successful in their own right with a wealth of lifetime experiences generously shared with like minds at mealtimes and without a sense of intimidation.

Why not try your own Ponant experience? Talk to your preferred travel agent because there isn’t too much of the world left where you won’t find a Ponant ship exploring.

But it’s the palpable misery of the claustrophobic cells that will remain in my memory.

Floor space of just a few square metres, sometimes without a roof, is all prisoners were allowed in these squalid alcoves. Hidden in some of the most depressing cells, pathetic graffiti scratched into the plaster tells of their torment and yearning for home.

Solitary confinement was a common punishment for harder convicts, sometimes lasting for years. In the 150 years this cursed penal colony operated, more than 70,000 murderers, political detainees, spies and lunatics arrived on these shores, with all but a handful ever returning to France. Most were assigned to the shark-infested waters a few cable lengths from shore when their life term expired.

Customers aboard Le Soleal with expedition guide, Barbara

Our stop at Devil’s Island is just one of many enlightening excursions as part of our “Amazon & Orinoco” expedition aboard Ponant’s ‘tres chic’ Le Soleal. This 18-day voyage began in Recife, Brazil and wound up on the French Caribbean island of Martinique, all the while making coastal explorations at points prohibitive to bigger ships. At one point Captain Debien deftly threaded Le Soleal through a narrow channel between arms of the Amazon, all the while escorted by a small flotilla of local runabouts buzzing and weaving wildly behind and in front of our comparatively massive vessel.

At regular intervals and at all times of the day and night, zodiacs are launched into the bordering jungles as we go in search of the birds, mammals and reptiles that make the Amazon region famous.

Yes, I know I’ve said this many times, but if it weren’t for adventure cruise and travel companies like Ponant prepared to invest and seek out these special locations, the enrichment and experiences contained in such exceptional ecosystems, environments and civilisations may well never be seen by the likes of myself.

Amazon River boys paddle out to meet our zodiac

www.francistravelmarketing.co.nz

"Semi” tame Capuchin on Devil’s Island

Subantarctic Islands Luxury Expedition Cruise 16-Nights Dunedin to Wellington 05 January 2018

16-Nights 05 January 2018 Onboard L’Austral

Zodiacs exploring the Orinoco River, Venezuela

SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS Expedition Cruise

from $14,999

per person, share twin Prestige stateroom, Deck 4

Dunedin to Wellington

HIGHLIGHTS: • Hiking the Subantarctic Islands, which are listed with the UNESCO World Heritage.

• Wildlife: Colonies of fur seals, elephant seals, king and yellow-eyed penguins.

Rorquals, Commerson’s dolphins and orcas. An extensive variety of birds: Gibson’s albatross, giant petrels and Auckland shags.

• Landscapes: Beaches of black sand, cliffs and lush green prairies, snow - capped mountain chains, glacial valleys fjords and stunning primary forests.

INCLUDED: • All meals onboard L’Austral • Captain’s welcome cocktail and gala dinner • “Open Bar” (pouring wines, house champagne, alcohol except premium brands...list available upon request) • Room service 24hrs (special selection) • Evening entertainment and events

• • • • • •

Voyage accompanied by PONANT’s professional naturalist guides Outings in Zodiac® dinghies FREE Water-resistant parka Complimentary rental of rubber boots with non-slip soles Water sports activities (except scuba diving) using the ship’s equipment Port charges and Government taxes

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT FOR MORE INFORMATION 10 www.letstravelmag.com Cruising, Ponant

Prices are per person, in NZ Dollars, share twin, includes port taxes and government fees (correct as at 26/04/2017) and all applicable discounts (PONANT bonus). PONANT Bonus is a promotional fare with savings up to 30% off the full cruise price. The fare is liable to increase at any time, without notice, depending on availability at time of booking. All fares and taxes are subject to change without notice up until full payment is received. Gratuities and airfares are additional. Special conditions, currency fluctuations and availability restrictions apply. Additional terms and conditions apply. Travel Agents please contact Francis Travel Marketing on: 0800 422 784 | (09) 444 2298 | reservations@ftmcruise.co.nz

Setting the Amazon Apart Celebrating a decade of success in 2017, Aqua Expeditions is globally recognised as a leader in small ship river cruising. In 2008 founder, Francesco Galli Zugaro, launched the first luxury cruise on the Amazon River in Peru, home to exotic birds species and enchanting pink dolphins, quickly earning accolades for these professionally guided nature-based adventures combined with sophisticated, architect-designed 5-star boutique hotel accommodations and gourmet cuisine.

Strategic upgrades in 2015 to the 16-suite Aria Amazon offered a refreshing, elegant look aligned with the latest technology and sleek, comfortable skiffs. On the other side of the world, Aqua Expeditions launched the 20-suite Aqua Mekong, sailing the Mekong River between timeless Cambodia and contemporary Vietnam.

Floor to ceiling picture windows convey captivating panoramas of flooded forests, colonial churches and stilt villages. Guided shore excursions include enlightening visits to remote Buddhist temples and on to Cambodia’s vast Tonle Sap Lake before continuing on to Angkor Wat. On both sides of the world, guests go deeper into each epic destination by bicycle and kayak to view little seen worlds of enduring wonders. Here is just a taste of their South American adventures…

Aria Amazon Amazon River, Peru Destination Overview: Experience the world as it was at the beginning of time. Sail the waters of the mighty Amazon.

Every week of the year, the award-winning Aqua Expeditions’ luxurious Aria Amazon takes 32 passengers deep into Peru’s Amazon wilderness to places only ever visited by a fortunate few. Daily water-based excursions on comfortable launch boats allow guests to experience such wonders as pink dolphins and six-foot-wide water lillies, to fishing for sharp-toothed piranha and to interact with the people who live their days along the river.

Aria Amazon’s expert guides, all under long-term contract to Aqua Expeditions, provide rich narrative detail about life along the Amazon.

They enrich guest’s journeys to such little-visited areas as the remote Pacaya Samiria Reserve and the headwaters of the river, with stories about the life and folklore of the area. In fact, many of the guides grew up in Amazonia.

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Dining: Explorers aboard the Aria Amazon will enjoy a menu of fresh, delicious world-renowned Peruvian fare, whether served on board or on an adventure. Dinner each evening promises to be a culinary feast for the senses, paired with select wines from South America. The menu has been created with the assistance of Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, one of Peru’s top ten chefs.

The 32 guests aboard the 147-foot-long Aria Amazon enjoy fine wine and haute cuisine, in all-inclusive comfort equivalent to a five-star boutique hotel.

The 16 over-sized staterooms feature ensuite seating areas, generous beds, and wall-to-wall panoramic windows. The observation deck with outdoor jacuzzi and the lounge are also glorious places to sip a pisco sour and watch the world go by. Executive Chef, Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, one of Peru’s star chefs, created the Aria Amazon’s gourmet menu. Fine South American wines are included at every meal. Travellers can book three-, four- or seven-night journeys, departing every Monday and Friday. All departures are guaranteed.

Seasons: Aqua Expeditions operates year-round, and every voyage is uniquely appealing, based on the changing seasons. During the high water season, the river and estuaries grow, allowing launch boats to venture deeper into the flooded forest.

During the low water season, the river recedes and beautiful sandy river beaches form.

Location: Amazon River voyages depart from the port city of Iquitos, Peru. Iquitos is served by numerous daily flights from Lima, Peru’s capital.

The flights take one hour and twenty-five minutes.

Accommodation: Aria Amazon is Aqua Expedition’s 147-foot flagship. Its 16 luxury guest suites, designed by an internationally renowned Peruvian interior designer, measure a generous 240 square feet, and feature large, outward facing panoramic windows and ensuite seating areas. All suites are air conditioned, and four are interconnected, to cater to families.

Guests can socialise in the dining room, bar, on the observation deck with outdoor jacuzzi and at the lounge. There is also a small boutique and an exercise room. You’ll be served by a crew of 24, including a cruise director, paramedic and four skilled naturalist guides.

Aria Amazon accommodates only 32 guests in 16 airconditioned luxury Design Suites. Generous picture windows offer superb river views from the 23sqm cabins. Outstanding cuisine, expert naturalist guides and great excursions. Five star all the way!

7 Nights - from $16,160 per person

www.aquaexpeditions.com

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2018 Departures with Jean-Michel Cousteau

Amenities/Attractions: Guests may choose three-, four- or seven-night itineraries. Each day will bring amazing new wonders, as guests set out with guides in a fleet of four tenders to float toward the source of the mighty Amazon. Each day, you will explore the small inlets and various winding river systems that make up the flooded forest.

Pacaya Samiria Reserve, located on the headwaters of the Amazon basin, spans more than five million acres.

Twice the size of Yellowstone Park, it teems with wildlife and aquatic life.

Visitors will have the opportunity to see hundreds of species, including the endangered pink Amazon dolphin, black caiman, and three-toed sloth.

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Amazon Cruise ... in Style

Phone: 0800 110 108

www.mondotravel.co.nz Cruising, Aqua Expeditions

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