Tasmania: A Corner of History

12 ESCAPE

SUNDAY FEBRUARY 14 2016 ESCAPE.COM.AU

TASMANIA

A corner of history A cruise around the islands and waterways of Tasmania is a taste of what our intrepid early mariners experienced, writes Rod Eime

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S THE the ship approached the shore, coloured fireworks and rockets lit up the sky and the whole village “looked like a scene in fairyland, for from the water’s edge, an avenue formed of brilliant Chinese lanterns led up to the Signor’s residence”. If nothing else, Signor Angelo Giulio Diego Bernacchi (aka His Most Amiable Majesty) knew how to throw a party. His guests included Tasmanian members of parliament and the press on a junket to the little settlement called immodestly, San Diego.

The year was 1886 and King Diego was presiding over his little fiefdom built on the former penal colony of Maria Island. The entrepreneur quickly seduced his guests with lavish hospitality and launched The Maria Island Co to begin enterprises in wine, fruit, livestock, silk and cement.

Floated in 1887 with a capital of £250,000, it was, however, all over by 1892, with the crestfallen maestro heading back to London.

Today, we arrive aboard the recently refreshed, 50passenger Coral Expeditions I as part of our week-long exploration of the islands and waterways in Tasmania’s southeast corner. As we stroll across the empty paddocks, there is no trace of Bernacchi’s 20ha of premium vineyards; instead the island is a protected nature reserve and a UNESCOlisted site thanks to the convict history, which peaked in 1846 when almost 500 prisoners were on Maria Island. His restored house, now a delightful overnight visitor option, and forlorn cement silos stand in stark memorial of his spectacular failure.

Named Maria’s Eylandt by Abel Tasman after his sponsor’s wife, Maria Island is accessed only by sea or light plane, making the delightful little land mass a few kilometres off Tasmania’s lower eastern shore

a popular shore excursion for cruise passengers. Our flexible small-ship itinerary allows us the luxury of a full and comprehensive visit, which includes a decent hike to the fossil cliffs, where the flamboyant Signor B once quarried his limestone.

Our itinerary had included the glorious Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area of Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour in Tasmania’s southwest, but weather conditions thwarted us. At just 35m, Coral Expeditions I (formerly Coral Princess I) is one of the smaller vessels in the world’s expedition fleet. The

ocean-going catamaran is perfectly at home in its usual haunts on the Great Barrier Reef or Kimberley, but a 100km transit exposed to 4m seas and 40km/h winds was deemed too uncomfortable.

“I could get us there and back just fine,” Captain Nathan told the guests at morning tea, “but you would curse me every minute of the journey.” We believe him. We’d already had a taste of Tasmania’s mercurial weather en route to Adventure Bay on Bruny Island where explorers Tasman, Bligh, Cook, Flinders, Furneaux and Bruni D’Entrecasteaux all took refuge.

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PIONEER TRAIL: (clockwise from main) The outlook towards Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National Park; a white-bellied sea eagle; Coral Expeditions I against the backdrop of dramatic cliffs on Maria Island; and the Wooden Boat Centre, Franklin.

Pictures: Peter Billingham, Mike Sugden, Rod Eime

ESCAPE ROUTE TASMANIA Coral Expeditions’ week-long itinerary in southern Tasmania aboard Coral Expeditions I resumes this month with plans to repeat the season in November.

DOING THERE Cruise fares begin at $3990 for seven nights and include all meals and excursions.

See coralexpeditions.com or Ph 1800 079 545 MORE discovertasmania.com.au

some sort. Cook engraved a tree while Bligh and the French planted trees and vegetables.

All of these exploits are recalled in a tiny but well-kept museum in Adventure Bay, built in 1954 from local convict bricks. The Bligh Museum of Pacific Exploration has collected an impressive trove of memorabilia that includes clippings and documents as well as maritime mementos.

Before we continue our quest, expedition leader Dennis takes advantage of the weather window and leads us on an energetic hike to the summit of Fluted Cape to take in the expansive view over Penguin V1 - TELE01Z01ES

Island and the bay. Tasmanian Parks ranger Oliver is along with us the entire journey and comes into his own at moments like this, pointing out little critters and special plants.

Back on board, chef Travis and his galley team have contrived another masterful meal. Lunches are typically hot buffet with emphasis on local seafood, meat and salad items.

Cakes and pastries are on offer, but the piles of fresh fruit – melon, berries and citrus — are quickly devoured.

Although it’s been several years since my last voyage on a Coral Expeditions vessel, it’s clear the culinary offerings

have made a quantum leap. An expanded wine list, skewed to include local pinot noir and riesling, complement Travis’s perfectly prepared and plated fish and meat dishes.

Across the D’Entrecasteaux Channel on the mainland is Recherche Bay, named after the esteemed chevalier’s ship and close to the most extreme southerly point of Tasmania.

Here we meet the vivacious Pauline Treillard, a Parisian cheese and winemaker at the Grandvewe sheep farm where her delicious fromage and wines are produced.

In lieu of our venture to Port Davey, a exploration of the Huon River is artfully devised to fill the gap in the program. At the quirky village of Franklin is the Wooden Boat Centre where the secret art of timber boat building is kept alive through courses in woodcraft and carpentry. Our guide, Graham Rankin, introduces each project like a coddled child. In fact, if we wanted to take home a gorgeous handmade huon pine dinghy, a mere $9450 would secure it. Oars are extra.

The balance of our itinerary includes mandatory visits to historic Port Arthur and spectacular Wineglass Bay, all easily achieved by little Coral Expeditions I. As the late Signor Bernacchi would attest, enterprises in Tasmania require preparation and perseverance and while Coral Expeditions’ brochure confidently includes Port Davey in the voyage, intending guests should be prepared to accept alterations to the schedule if conditions dictate.

As decreed by the ebullient Italian and numerous adventurers before him, Tasmania is indeed an “Eden of the South” possessing great scenic and natural wonders.

Just be sure to pack a beanie and scarf in case.

The writer travelled as a guest of Coral Expeditions.

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