Across the Top, Seattle Surprise

AUS $9.95 (inc GST) PP255003/07360

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Top There are no roads to this land.

Expedition cruiser Roderick Eime goes in search of ancient art, mysteries and tales almost forgotten in Australia’s Top End. photos RODERICK EIME

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t was just after 9.30am when the first Japanese Zero fighter broke from formation and dived toward the church. Father John McGrath was busily radioing his message to Area Combined Headquarters at Darwin: “An unusually large air formation bearing down on us from the north-west.”

As soon as the transmission was sent, bullets immediately began shattering the woodwork and rattling the tin roofs like angry stones hurled from above. This was the first enemy attack on Australia soil, 20 minutes before that fateful raid on Darwin on February 19, 1942.

“And ’ere’s the radio Father McGrath used that day,” says Trevor Tipungwuti, our Tiwi Island guide, picking up the handset as if to correct the mistake, “…and ya know the rest.”

Tiwi Islands folklore To further the folklore of the Tiwi Islands, Flight Sergeant Hajimi Toyoshima’s Zero fighter crashed on Melville Island when returning from the raid, whereupon he was captured

by Matthias Ulungura, a Bathurst Islander, and delivered to authorities.

Most history books refer to brave Matthias as just “an Aboriginal” if mention is made at all.

The little community of Nguiu on Bathurst Island even featured in a fictional scene from the movie Australia, when little Nullah was rescued from ‘Mission Island’ under the noses of hostile Japanese.

From the air the two Tiwi Islands, Bathurst and big brother Melville, can be viewed as a giant topographic awning over the city of Darwin. The 2,500 Tiwi people are quite distinct from their cousins across the Beagle Gulf in Arnhem Land, with linguistic and cultural differences that belie the proximity of the communities.

Visiting the islands is mainly by day ferry from Darwin, where tourism operators hook up with Tiwi Tours for guided visits to sights such as the artists’ workshops, church, burial ground and museum. The propeller from Toyoshima’s Zero is still propped up against the old radio shack.

But to thoroughly experience the region, including Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, a voyage aboard one of Australia’s specialist adventure cruise vessels is essential. Cairns-based Coral Princess Cruises operates the 2,000-ton Oceanic Discoverer on an 11-night exploration that begins in their homeport and concludes in Darwin.

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Above: Tiwi elders perform a sacred smoking ceremony to welcome visitors.

Right: Flt Sgt Hajimi Toyoshima captured at Melville Island.

Opposite: Handcarved Pukumani (burial) poles.

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expedition cruise Accessible adventure Regular readers of Cruise Passenger magazine will know that Coral Princess Cruises operates some of the most engaging expedition and adventure itineraries around our country. From comprehensive Great Barrier Reef explorations, Kimberley coast and New Zealand expeditions to sailings into remote Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu, Coral Princess Cruises’ fleet of three vessels ensures unparalleled coverage of accessible adventure destinations.

On board Oceanic Discoverer are Ian Morris and Sandy Scott, two specialist lecturers on biology, history, indigenous culture and environmental science, ensuring this journey is no cocktail-sipping doddle. While there is plenty of opportunity for the 72 passengers to relax, enjoy a drink and kick back, the on-shore activities include energetic hikes across the apparently desolate shores and rocky headlands. “Apparently”, because in the company of our observant guides, you’re soon directed towards remarkable flora ingeniously adapted to the harsh landscape as well as birds, mammals and reptiles that might otherwise go overlooked.

One of the most fascinating excursions on Melville Island is the abandoned settlement of Victoria at

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Above: Ruins of the Victoria settlement, Port Essington.

Port Essington on the Cobourg Peninsula. The story of this wretched outpost defies belief. Victoria was created in 1838 after the failure of nearby Fort Dundas and Fort Wellington.

The stubborn insistence of the British colonial authorities, thousands of miles away in Sydney, kept this northern port maintained despite the malaria, dysentery, cyclones and ferocious insects that tormented the god-forsaken residents relentlessly. With its ultimate and inevitable failure in 1849, it wasn’t until the establishment of Darwin in 1869 that the fledgling colony had its first permanent northern port.

Voyages of discovery Most of us remember from our school days such valiant European explorers as Van Diemen, Torres, Flinders and Leichhardt, who mapped and ‘discovered’ these territories and gave them their names. But the history of interaction with the original settlers far precedes even the first Europeans of the early 17th century. Macassan trepangers (sea cucumber fishermen) from Sulawesi may have been

Coral Princess Cruises offers the bi-annual ‘Across the Top’ itinerary as part of its array of Australian and South Pacific journeys that includes the Kimberley, Papua New Guinea, Vanuatu and New Zealand. 11 nights from Cairns to Darwin each April and reverse in September and October. Prices from $6,450 per person, twin share.

trading with the local clans as far back as the early 15th century. Their artefacts, tools, customs and even their dead can be found along our shores.

Rock art as far away as Cape York Peninsula depicts visiting boats of all shapes and sizes, with the distinctive lines of the Macassan prau (wooden sailboat) clearly among them.

Evocatively titled ‘Across the Top’, this highly experiential journey delivers an insightful and intimate discovery of the most remote and isolated indigenous communities still independent within our sometimes overbearing administration. More importantly, it gives us a chance to shake off generations of prejudice and misinformation and gain an authentic understanding of the people who lovingly cared for this land long before we took over.

Above: Tiwi Island elder Philippa Pupangalla.

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Getting there

Cruise Line: Coral Princess Cruises Vessel: Oceanic Discoverer Star rating: not rated GRT: 1,838 tons Max passenger capacity: 72 Passenger decks: 3 Entered service: 2005 Facilities: 36 staterooms, each with sofa, desk, wardrobe, luggage space and air-conditioning; sundeck and spa pool; internet booth and reference library; phone and fax facilities; lecture lounge with large plasma screen; limited laundry facilities; two fully stocked cocktail bars; boutique and dive shop; Zodiacs, a glass-bottomed boat and a specially designed, 80-seat, high-powered aluminium excursion vessel with awning and toilet.

Virgin Blue flies regularly to both Cairns and Darwin with direct connections to most major cities. www.virginblue.com.au

Coral Princess Cruises: 1800 079 545 www.coralprincess.com.au

Garig Gunak Barlu National Park www.nt.gov.au/nreta/parks

highs Superb interpretation of indigenous culture and art; ideal vessel for journey; great staff and crew.

lows No scuba diving; limited opportunities for swimming.

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Seattle Surprise A late starter in the cruising stakes, Seattle is more than making up for lost time with a visitor-friendly persona and weekly cruises to Alaska and beyond.

Words and photos Roderick Eime

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mid cries of “Chop its head off!” and “Cut out its guts!” a lifeless carcass is hurled through the air.

No, this is not a sadistic pirate ritual, nor a bizarre black magic chant; it’s the Pike Place Fish Market, one of Seattle’s most talked-about tourist experiences.

The market came about in 1907 when consumers, up in arms at skyrocketing produce prices, turned directly to farmers to eliminate profiteering middlemen and created the Pike Place area as their meeting place. Over the past hundred years, the market has grown beyond its original trading mandate, survived several demolition orders and become a tourist attraction in its own right.

Customers order their fish from the ice tables in the front of the stall, the order is called out and the entire fish is tossed to the packer behind the counter who wraps it for the customer. This theatrical procedure draws delighted crowds and there’s plenty of audience participation.

Waterfront evolution Along the lines of many similar developments in the world’s most cruise-friendly cities, Seattle’s waterfront has evolved to service and entertain the thousands of cruise travellers who pass through the port each season. Yet despite Seattle’s long maritime history, cruise travellers have only recently visited the city of three million inhabitants in any measurable number.

In the mid-1990s, the old Pier 66 was demolished to make way for a brand new Bell Street cruise terminal, directly adjacent to Pike Place Market, in anticipation of the growth in cruise tourism. The optimism was a bit premature and cruise passenger numbers have only grown since 2000 when just six vessels and 6,000 passengers used the terminal. In 2005, the new Pier 91 facility at Smith Cove was brought online to accommodate the new superliners and annual numbers are expected to exceed 800,000 passengers with 200 sailings this season.

Seattle is becoming the jump-off port of choice for American passengers travelling to the neighbouring US state of Alaska, bypassing the traditional port of Vancouver, Canada.

Currently Celebrity, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Princess Cruises and Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines home port 11 vessels there, with Celebrity and HAL using the more conveniently located Bell Street Pier Cruise Terminal at Pier 66.

Shore attractions Once onshore, passengers can enjoy an enormous range of sights and attractions. In the immediate vicinity of Pier 66 are the Seattle

Aquarium and a bevy of novelty and curio businesses in and around the Pike Place complex, including Ye Olde Curiosity Shop and the original Starbucks Coffee Company store.

If you have time to wander around the interesting streets beyond the pier precinct, there’s plenty to see and do. Shopping, dining and drinking are attractions in themselves throughout Seattle – sample boutique beers such as Rogue Dead Guy and Arrogant Bastard Ale at Von’s RoastHouse, or enjoy a gourmet coffee at one of scores of cafes.

Head up Pine Street to the classic monorail station, where the 1960s-era electric tramway still transports visitors from downtown to the Seattle Center, site of the 1962 World’s Fair and Century 21 Exposition. The centrepiece of this historic area is the Space Needle, a futuristic tower that is now the signature landmark of this forwardfacing city. Aim for sunset for the best effect.

If you are embarking or disembarking your cruise in Seattle, the strong advice is to arrive

Top: Pike Place Fish Market is a tourist drawcard.

Above: Take a monorail trip from Seattle Center, site of the futuristic Space Needle (opposite).

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early or stay on to fully enjoy the attractions outside the immediate CBD. Seattle has some superb hotels within a stroll from harbourside, such as SLH’s trendy Hotel Ändra and the historic boutique property Mayflower Park Hotel.

All the major names are represented too, but it’s these standalone establishments that define Seattle.

Public transport throughout the city centre is free and very reasonable with bus, trolley and a brand new light rail that opened in July.

Above: The city is a mecca for aircraft buffs.

Aviation heritage Seattle’s aviation heritage makes it something of a mecca for aircraft buffs with the iconic Boeing Company’s first factory opened there in 1916. There are two sites that must be seen: the sprawling Boeing factory and Future of Flight Aviation Center north of the city, and the Museum of Flight at the old Boeing field to the south. The latter is a magnificent museum with a staggering array of aircraft from every era of flight, while the former includes a tour of the modern Boeing manufacturing facility, where you can see the new 787 Dreamliners rolling off the line.

Even a stay of three or four days will leave you wanting more, so if you plan to spend that amount of time at each end of your seven-day cruise, you’ll be assured of complete exploration of this fascinating and futuristic city that also maintains a healthy respect for tradition and history.

CITY HIGHLIGHTS

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• Take a Victoria Clipper fast ferry to Victoria, BC. • Savour a bowl of clam chowder at a waterfront restaurant.

• Visit the 37-hectare Woodland Park Zoo, which has more than 1,000 animals in a botanic park-like setting.

• City museums include the Seattle Art Museum and its companion outdoor sculpture park, Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture, and the Experience Music Project, dedicated to Seattle’s vibrant music culture.

Cruise lines visiting Seattle include: American Safari Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise West, Fantasy Cruises, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Princess Cruises, Royal Caribbean Cruise Line, plus numerous day and charter operators such as Argosy and Victoria Clipper Cruise season: April to October Official tourism site: www.visitseattle.org Sailing schedules: www.portseattle.org Airlines serving Seattle: Aeroméxico, Air Canada, Air Canada Jazz, Air France, American Airlines, Alaska Airlines, AirTran Airways, Asiana Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Delta Connection operated by SkyWest Airlines, EVA Air, Frontier Airlines, Hainan Airlines, Horizon Air, Hawaiian Airlines, Icelandair, JetBlue Airways, Korean Air, Lufthansa, Midwest Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Southwest Airlines, Sun Country Airlines, US Airways, Virgin America, United Airlines, United Express operated by SkyWest Airlines.

• Ride a hand-operated 1914-era elevator to the top of Smith Tower for a superb view of the waterfront.

• Take a Duck Tour in a WWII-era amphibious landing craft • If on an extended tour, consider taking an backcountry excursion to Mount St Helens or a river cruise along the Columbia • Buy a Go Seattle™ Card. This multiattraction pass gives you access to more than 30 attractions, including the Space Needle and museums.