Gardens & Landscaping Feature

GARDENS & LANDSCAPING

PLANTING WITH INTENT

Horticulturist Jack Etheridge, founder of Auburn Gardens, shares his passion for creating spaces inspired and influenced by the wild environment, and offers some advice to those looking for a more natural approach to gardening.

Wildflower meadows, woodland scenes, untouched prairies, an unmown field … nature is the world’s best garden designer.

When I’m planning a new planting design, I always think of the above and ask myself: “What works in nature? What looks good, and can I predict which plants will thrive and which will fail?”

Luckily, with Guernsey’s diverse wild areas, it’s easy to be inspired.

There are many things to consider when introducing plants to an FOR SOME SERIOUS HEIGHT AND A BOLD STATEMENT, TRY CALAMAGROSTIS KARL FOERSTER. area, governed by a variety of factors. These range from plant hardiness to soil type and from individual tastes to the effect on a client’s bank balance.

For a long while, I have been a huge fan of drift planting, also known as prairie planting. The basis of this involves planting large swathes of a restricted palette of plants into blocks, with normally no more than eight varieties in a standard sized bed. It’s almost as if a border or a planter is a blank canvas and you are the artist making large moving brush strokes across the soil with a vast range of flowering perennials, ornamental grasses and even specimen shrubs and wild roses.

Mirroring a natural scene may appear like an easy task, but it actually requires careful planning. It is important to consider the seasons, think about what your choice of plants will look like yearround and, controversially, not disregard certain forms of a plant which may traditionally be removed. While it may not be to everyone’s taste, try leaving spent seed pods and refrain from ‘dead heading’ every now and again - not only

is there an unsung beauty in, for example, Echinacea flower heads that are ‘past their time’, but these plants can also be an important food source for insects and birds.

Drift planting was brought to the contemporary garden design scene by my all time favourite garden designer, Piet Oudolf. He recognised the natural beauty in planting in this style and felt trapped by the traditional formal planting designs typically used in the industry. No longer were trimmed box balls, lollipop bay trees and perfectly pruned roses filling the show gardens at Chelsea. Drift planting is bold, confident and experimental.

When setting out a new border or planter, I like to split the plant choices into three different tiers: a base line, mid line and top line. The base line forms the bulk of the border. This is usually ornamental grasses or some heavy-foliage shrubs; however, some grasses can be planted as singular specimens due to the size they can reach once established. In shady sheltered areas ferns make a great alternative. My favourites include Stipa tenuissima - also known as ponytail grass. It’s an absolute star, very easy to care for, can handle a fairly poor sandy soil and looks very dramatic in the wind, with its ‘ponytails’ being the seed pods later in the year that can double its size. Other grasses to try and include are Miscanthus sinensis - another reliable winner with thin heavy foliage for at least 10 months a year and tall feather-like wispy seed heads that appear later in the year - when they catch the setting sun they really sing - or, for some serious height and a bold statement, try Calamagrostis karl foerster; these work especially well at the back of a border or as screening.

Mid line plants would include flowering perennials that have both interesting bulky foliage and LAST BUT BY NO MEANS LEAST THERE IS ALWAYS A PLACE FOR THE WACKY SHOW STOPPER ERYNGIUM BOURGATII - THE MEDITERRANEAN BRIGHT BLUE SEA HOLLY. ITS INCREDIBLE BLUE SPIKES CUT THROUGH OTHER SHADES IN THE BED WITH STARK CONFIDENCE. colourful flowers. These would include different varieties of Salvia for deep blues through to bright pinks and lush foliage. Don’t be scared to use Purple Sage in a border either. My other go-to choices would include Astilbe’s, Guara ‘Whirling butterfly’, Acanthus spinosis and even Agapanthus. Of course, there is always space for the local favourite Echium, I like to use the ‘bush’ variety, which is a perennial rather than a bi-annual, as it has the most intense vibrant purple spires which are absolutely adored by bees and butterflies.

Finally, the top line plants are the ones that sing out louder than the rest, the trumpet in a brass band. These plants are typically not as long lasting as the rest in the border, so it’s important to have a few appearing at different times of the year. In late spring assorted Alliums popping up through a bed is enough to get anyone excited for the summer with the perfect balls in a vast array of colours which will keep coming back year after year. My advice here is to buy bulbs as they are so much cheaper than potted plants and will settle in better.

My other favourites are Echinacea purpurea, Verbena bonariensis and Echinops ritro, all of which come with a dazzling array of vivid colours. They all like full sun and can handle exposed positions. Last but by no means least, there is always a place for the wacky show stopper Eryngium bourgatii - the Mediterranean bright blue sea holly. Its incredible blue spikes cut through other shades in the bed with stark confidence.

A garden is not a stagnant space, and it definitely shouldn’t be treated as such. We naturally get too attached to ‘maintenance’ and keeping things just so, but when planting using the above ideas, you just can’t expect it to stay like how it looks on a plan, nor should you want it to.

Let nature have her way. Some plants will thrive and some will die off, others will become entangled. Birds will drop blackberry seeds, the dog will bring in burs from burdock plants growing on the cliffs, or you’ll get excited at the discount area in the garden centre ….

There’s an endless selection of plants to explore - far too many to include in this article - but it’s all about experimentation. Look to nature for inspiration, do some research, allow yourself some trial and error and I promise that you will never look back.

PLANTING THROUGH THE SEASONS

Recent global events have seen many of us turn inwards and consider the island’s self-sufficiency, or lack thereof. While a world without imported food stuffs is inconceivable, many fresh fruits and vegetables can be grown much closer to home. If you have a garden with space for a vegetable patch or a small greenhouse, here is our guide to what you should think about planting over the next year. And bear in mind, decreasing the air miles often means increasing the flavour.

AUTUMN September / October / November

As we move into autumn, it often feels like the natural world is dying back rather than looking to produce crops for our consumption. But with a well organised garden, you can certainly have a bountiful autumn harvest, and plant with an eye to the upcoming seasons.

WHAT TO PLANT:

With an eye to next spring, it is possible to plant a number of crops which will survive the winter. Some varieties of spring onions can go in now, along with onions for an early crop next year. Lettuce is surprisingly hardy and can be planted in autumn, as can spring cabbages.

WHAT TO HARVEST:

Autumnal crops include the squash and pumpkins we are used to seeing at this time of year. Potatoes are also available, along with runner beans and French beans.

EXTENDING THE GROWING SEASON

Even when the weather gets colder, it’s possible to keep your crops healthy.

You can protect many crops throughout the winter and early spring by using fleece, cold frames and cloches.

Pots and containers can be covered with cardboard or hessian to insulate them, and can also be packed with straw or bubble wrap for extra protection from the cold.

If you’re using a greenhouse or polytunnel, the crops will be sheltered but will still need extra insulation. Use deep pots or prepared grow bags inside the greenhouse for an extra layer of protection for your vegetables.

WINTER

December / January / February

As the real chill of winter sets it, it obviously isn’t a season to be planting much. But it is a time when you can think about cultivating some crops inside, and that hard winter ground can still yield up some delights for the gardeners who have put the effort in earlier in the year.

WHAT TO PLANT:

There isn’t a lot that can go into the ground at this time of year, so it’s definitely a time to think about planning rather than planting. But you can put garlic out at this time, which actually benefits from a period of cold. Onions can also be a good crop to plant if you have a greenhouse.

WHAT TO HARVEST:

Winter crops are perfect for some comforting winter meals. Leeks are often ready at this time of year, as are parsnips, brussel sprouts and sprouting broccoli. Winter brassicas such as kale, cabbage and cauliflowers are also best harvested when ready now.

SPRING

March / April / May

For any gardener, spring is a busy time of year – and if you’re looking to get some fruit and vegetable crops in, it’s definitely a time to get your hands dirty. The hard work now will pay off later when those crops come through.

WHAT TO PLANT:

There is plenty to plant at this time of year, which can provide food for your table for many months to come. Spring is a good time to put in everything from brussel sprouts, potatoes, carrots and cabbage to the summer staples of lettuce, radishes and spinach. If you’d like some sweet treats over the summer, plant raspberries and other cane fruits early on in the season and don’t forget the strawberries.

WHAT TO HARVEST:

Early spring can certainly be described as the ‘hungry gap’ between the last of the winter crops and the start of the early crops. But as the season progresses, there will be more available. Early salad crops such as radishes and fast lettuces will be ready, as well as spring cabbage, broccoli, early peas and sprouting broccoli. If you’ve planted asparagus, you may also be in for a real treat in late springtime.

SUMMER

June / July / August

Summer is obviously an enjoyable time to be out in the garden, and there’s plenty you can do to be productive during the season. Many crops will need picking and caring for, and there is also lots to be done to prepare for the months ahead.

WHAT TO PLANT:

There is a range of crops that can be planted during the summer, from hardier produce such as calabrese and carrots to the more delicate peas, sweetcorn and spinach. It’s also a good time to put in beans and beetroot.

WHAT TO HARVEST:

You will really benefit from the fruits of your earlier labour during the summer. There are often some real treats during the summer months, including strawberries and raspberries as well as delicious peas and tomatoes. If you have fruit trees, apples and pears will also be available for picking later in the season.

New garden to commemorate Victor Hugo

A statue of Victor Hugo has surveyed St Peter Port from Candie Gardens for more than 100 years. Now a new scheme will further mark the French author’s influence in the island, with an area of the gardens designed and named in his honour.

VICTOR HUGO HAD A DEEP FEELING FOR THE UNSPOILED NATURAL WORLD AND LOVED GARDENS THAT WERE UNTAMED AND POPULATED WITH BIRDS AND INSECTS. ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN DESIGN REFLECT THIS LOVE OF WILDNESS AND NATURE.

Victor Hugo’s exile in Guernsey has been marked by a statue in Candie Gardens since 1914. Now that statue will be surrounded by a fitting tribute to the famous writer, who penned works including ‘Les Misérables’ and ‘Les Travailleurs de la mer’ during his time in the island.

30-time Chelsea Flower Show gold medallist, Raymond Evison, is designing a garden to honour the author, which will be located on either side of the stone steps leading down to the statue.

The scheme has been supported by both the Victor Hugo in Guernsey Society and the States Agriculture, Countryside and Land Management Services. The design is to reflect both Hugo’s passion for trees and plants and his unshakeable belief in freedom and liberty for all.

For Raymond, it has been a carefully considered design project: “Members of the Victor Hugo in Guernsey Society have provided detailed research into Hugo’s favourite varieties of plants, along with those reflected in his writing and that echo the people that were dear to him. We are taking particular care in the selection of plants and shrubs for the garden, sourcing varieties from both Guernsey and France, to reflect Hugo’s French heritage and his adopted homeland.”

Chair of the Victor Hugo in Guernsey Society, Dinah Bott, believes that it will reflect the author’s personality: “Victor Hugo had a deep feeling for the unspoiled natural world and loved gardens that were untamed and populated with birds and insects. Elements of the garden design reflect this love of wildness and nature.”

VisitGuernsey is keen to promote the island’s links with Victor Hugo and director of marketing and tourism at VisitGuernsey, Mike Hopkins, said: “We are extremely grateful to both Raymond and the Victor Hugo in Guernsey Society for supporting this exciting initiative. This is one of a series of projects to be unveiled, which seek to celebrate the life and works of Victor Hugo through the creation of new and exciting Victor Hugo themed product initiatives and events for locals and visitors to experience and enjoy.”

It was originally planned to plant the garden earlier this year, but the island’s Covid-19 lockdown affected the schedule. Planting is now due to happen shortly, with the garden due to be launched early in 2021.

THE STATUE

Designed by Jean Boucher, the statue was made in around 1913 for the Sociéte Victor Hugo and was purchased by the French government for 30,000 francs (£1,291).

The statue was shipped to Guernsey on a French government dockyard steamboat before being transported to Candie on a trolley pulled by a steamroller, and was publicly unveiled in a ceremony on 7 July 1914.

The stone statue is mounted on a limestone base which sits on a block of Jaonneuse granite from a quarry at L’Ancresse. It weighs 9,800kg and is now a protected monument.

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