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2014
best
The Phoenician 6000 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix 480-941-8200
The Phoenician has earned its spot in Arizona luxury-resort history. The resort impresses from the start, with a beautifully manicured driveway. Take in the sweeping views of the lush lawns and sparkling pools. If scones and Devonshire cream are the in-laws’ thing, check out high tea. Regale them with stories of the resort’s fallen developer, Charles H Keating Jr. (even if you have to Google it). At night, view the stars through telescopes on the lobby patio. — Dawn Gilbertson
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WHIT RICHARDSON
La Marmotte was once an ice house in Telluride, Colo. Now it is an upscale French bistro with a menu that changes daily.
TELLURIDE: REINVENTED Ski resort gave once-dying mining town a reason to live, thrive RON DUNGAN
TELLURIDE, Colo. — When people talk about the seasons in Telluride, they’re not necessarily talking about the weather. Chances are they mean activities: the winter ski season and the summer festival season that draw tourists to this southwest Colorado mountain town. Snow play has evolved over the years, and that means more than just the addition of snowboards on the slopes. Telluride winter visitors come to ski, snowboard, snowshoe, skate, ice climb — just about anything you can do on snow and ice. They heli-ski and tele-ski. They ride snow bikes with big, fat tires. Local outfitters will rent you gear and get you where you want to go. “Basically, the fatter tires provide more float, more traction,” said Pete Jaeschke of Bootdoctors and Paragon Outdoors, a downtown outfitter. Paragon also offers group bike rides to a nearby brew pub. “We’ll get a group together, grab a beer and come back into town,
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Jaeschke said. It wasn’t always this lively. Telluride, which began as a mining community in the 1870s, was nearly a ghost town by the 1960s. A ski resort breathed new life into the area in the ’70s, and Telluride became an oasis of good restaurants, bars, shops and hotels for travelers to the San Juan Mountains. The original ski runs have been expanded, and a cluster of shops, hotels, bars and restaurants called Mountain Village has been built to accommodate them. A chairlift connects Telluride with Mountain Village. You don’t have to drive anywhere to have a good time in Telluride. Hotels boast that they are so close to snow that you can ski out the door and ski back in. Even those that don’t make that claim are probably within a few blocks of a chairlift. “It’s amazing what you can do COLORADO TOURISM
Views from a gondola are matched only by skiing or snowboarding down Telluride’s slopes.
See TELLURIDE, Page T5
Sale away: Hotels, attractions offer holiday deals Big savings to be had on Black Friday, Cyber Monday, but do your homework DAWN GILBERTSON THE REPUBLIC
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Who says Best Buy, Walmart and Amazon.com get to hog the Black Friday/Cyber Monday shopping spotlight? Travel companies from airlines to attractions started horning in on the shopping extravaganza a few years ago, figuring people might scoop up vacation specials along with toys and electronics. The list of participants grows each year. The High Roller, Las Vegas’ towering new observation wheel that offers 30minute rides in an enclosed capsule, is even getting in on the action. It’s offering two-for-one tickets for travelers who will be in Las Vegas on Thanksgiving. For those thinking ahead to summer, the Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs in Phoenix is offering what will likely be its lowest
rate, $69 a night. As with any travel promotion, check the fine print before you buy. Many deals must be prepaid and are non-refundable. Many hotels and resorts have mandatory resort fees that top $25 a night. Blackout dates apply in many cases. And most offers have specific travel dates, some in the very near future. No sense plunking down your credit card for a non-refundable hotel room in New York City if the offer is good only in January and February and you hate cold weather. Perhaps most importantly, check regular prices on the dates you’re considering to make sure the offer is indeed a deal. Hotels, airlines and other travel businesses often wait until the last minute to release their Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals. Check for updates through Dec. 1 at travel.azcentral.com.
Arizona The Wigwam Deal: Rates starting at $99.50 plus $22 resort fee and taxes. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1. Travel dates: Nov. 28-Jan. 12. Blackout dates apply. Details: wigwamarizona.com. The booking code is FRIMON. Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Deal: Summer rate of $69 plus $18 resort fee and taxes. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1. Travel dates: May 25-Sept. 7. Details: 800-876-4683, tapatiocliffs hilton.com. The promotion/offer code is CYBER. JW Marriott Camelback Inn Resort & See DEALS, Page T3
GETTY IMAGES
Capsules of the High Roller observation wheel cut through the sky above the Las Vegas Strip.
ORLANDO BECOMES A MAGIC KINGDOM FOR LOCALS PAGE U4
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Explore Arizona
Project Governor’s mansion to show derided as ‘pink palace’ Native link to Route 66 THEN & NOW
SUSAN MONTOYA BRYAN ASSOCIATED PRESS
1975
THEN: Tom Chauncey, owner of Channel 10, then a CBS affiliate known as KOOL-TV, donated a house to the state to be used as the Arizona governor’s mansion in 1975. The home was in Clearwater Hills, a county island near Paradise Valley.
REPUBLIC ARCHIVE
1975
1977
2012
THEN: Raul Castro was the only governor to live in the home. He was elected in 1974 and lived there with his wife, Pat, from 1975 until 1977, when he was appointed ambassador to Argentina. Subsequent governors Wesley Bolin and Bruce Babbitt declined to live in the home, dubbed the “pink palace.”
REPUBLIC ARCHIVE
THEN: After Castro moved out, the home sat vacant for a while, then was donated to the Arizona Board of Regents in 1978. The board sold it in 1980 for $375,000 to benefit a scholarship fund. Today, the home is in pieces at the top of Highcliff Drive.
ALBUQUERQUE — Greasy diners, big-finned Cadillacs, mom-and-pop souvenir shops, dusty trading posts and the promise of the West were undoubtedly part of the recipe that made historic Route 66 — America’s Mother Road — famous. The lesser known story is that of the more than two dozen American Indian tribes scattered along the 2,400-mile byway, which stretched from Chicago to California. Tribes are now teaming up with a tourism group and the National Park Service to tell a new story for Route 66 travelers, one that aims to detail the histories of Native American communities that saw their part of the West changed because of the road and to dispel long-held stereotypes. Virginia Salazar-Halfmoon, who is coordinating the project for the American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Association, said many foreign visitors and even some Americans expect to find Indians wearing headdresses and living in teepees when they travel along the route. “What we would like them to know is that we are all unique nations. We have a different story and a different history with Route 66,” she said. “We’re very much wanting to share who we are with the world.” During the next year, the plan is to create a guidebook using federal grant money that will highlight significant tribal sites along the 2,400-mile route. The book will include stories of how communities were affected by the commerce that came along with the traffic. Representatives from the Park Service and the American Indian Center of Chicago were among those who participated in a meeting last week to kick off the project. Officials from Acoma and Zuni pueblos in New Mexico, the Cherokee Nation and several other tribes attended. Many talked about the route’s role in the federal government’s Indian relocation program of the 1950s and the migration of many Indian children to boarding schools. They also said some legs of the highway used to be traditional trading routes that were used by the Indians long before the pavement went down and the road signs went up. “This is a great opportunity we have here,” said Otis Halfmoon, a tribal liaison with the Park Service. “These stories need to be told by us, by American Indian people.” Organizers say the creation of the guidebook along with a destination website that features tribal events and eventually oral histories could lead to more economic development opportunities for communities along the route. Lisa Snell, the owner and publisher of the Native American Times and Native Oklahoma magazine, will be spending the next year traveling the route, doing research and conducting interviews with community members for the book. Beyond the greasy burgers and fries and family road trips, Snell said travelers “don’t think about the greater story of who was here first, who walked that highway.”
REPUBLIC ARCHIVE
Go to travel.azcentral.com to see a slideshow of current and old photos of the governor’s mansion.
LAS VEGAS ADVISOR
Nevada legal online poker site folds ANTHONY CURTIS SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC
The first legal online poker site in the United States has closed. After ceasing operations in New Jersey in September, Ultimate Gaming pulled the plug in Nevada last week, ending an 18-month effort that failed to gain traction. The closing is seen as another major negative for online gambling, which figures to be adversely affected by Republican victories in this month’s elections. Two online companies — Caesars Entertainment’s WSOP and South Point’s Real Gaming — continue to deal in Nevada, while WSOP and several others are active in New Jersey. Online-gaming sites have fallen se-
verely short of revenue projections in both states. Rascals at Hard Rock: The countrymusic group Rascal Flatts is the latest to sign on for a mini-residency at Hard Rock. The band will play nine dates between Feb. 25 and March 14. Tickets starting at $39.50. Sayonara Sirio: Following the closing of sister restaurant Circo at Bellagio, Sirio at Aria will close Dec. 6. A new, unannounced restaurant will open in the space. Kabob Korner closed: Another long-running downtown restaurant is down. Fremont Street East’s Kabob Korner has closed. Its neighbor, Uncle Joe’s Pizza, closed last month. Happy birthday, Mirage: The Mirage’s 25th anniversary was Nov. 22.
The opening of the resort in 1989 is generally considered the demarcation between the “old” and the “new” Las Vegas. Question: Is Venetian putting up its skating rink again this year? Answer: Venetian is not building its synthetic-ice rink this year. Nor will there be rinks downtown or at Sunset Park. It looks like this year’s options will be limited to the rink at Cosmopolitan’s Boulevard Pool, which debuts this week, and one at Caesars Palace, for which an opening date has not been announced. SUSAN MONTOYA BRYAN/AP
For information about shows, buffets, coupons and deals, go to www.LasVegasAdvisor.com.
The Rio Puerco Bridge is one of the many decommissioned fixtures along historic Route 66, as the road runs through Laguna Pueblo land west of Albuquerque.
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Your Travels
Dubai is a glamorous Persian Gulf getaway LINDA MCMENAMIN SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC
In September, my husband Jeff and I traveled to Dubai, United Arab Emirates. We enjoyed a comfortable flight on Qatar airways and stayed in the marina area, which is about 40 minutes from the airport and within walking distance of Jumeirah Beach, the most popular public beach in town. The beach was very clean. The Persian Gulf water was warm and blue, and there were great changing/shower facilities which were free to use. Umbrellas, sun beds and chaise longues could be rented for a small fee. One day the beach staff handed out cold towels to those sitting in the sun. The tallest building in the world, Burj Khalifa, is in the downtown business district. One can purchase a ticket to the observation deck on the 124th floor in advance or upon arrival. Going to the top takes just one minute in an elevator, and one can take pictures and purchase souvenirs in the gift shop. The building is connected to the Dubai Mall. Dubai also has one of the best hotels in the world, the Burj al Arab. The 60story, sail-shaped building has a lobby so tall that the Statue of Liberty could fit inside. Nearly 6,000 square feet of gold leaf were used to decorate the interior. Walking around Dubai is challenging because there are few sidewalks. Most people get around via taxi and or the metro. Driving is on the right and all signs are in English and Arabic. Having visited more than 50 coun-
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Spa Deal: Rates start at $149 a night, including a round of golf for one guest after 11 a.m. The nightly resort fee is $29. Booking date: Dec. 1. Travel dates: Dec. 1-22. Details: camelbackinn.com. The corporate/promotional code is 16C. Hilton Tucson El Conquistador Golf & Tennis Resort Deal: $99 per night for a two-night stay plus a $50 resort credit. Resort fee is $20 per night. Booking dates: Nov. 30-Dec. 2. Travel dates: Dec. 1-15. Details: 800-445-8667, www.hiltonel conquistador.com. Booking code is P7. Hilton Sedona Resort & Spa Deal: Four-night package, including breakfast for two, for $650 plus nightly resort fee of $10 and taxes. Booking dates: Dec. 1-2. Travel dates: Jan. 1-Sept. 30, based on availability. Details: 877-273-3762, hiltonsedona resort.com. The booking code is P6. Hermosa Inn Deal: 20 percent off December stays and 10 percent off stays between January and April. Booking dates: Nov. 28 for the 20 percent off deal and Dec. 1 for the 10 percent offer. Travel dates: December and JanuaryApril. Details: hermosainn.com. Code for the 20 percent off sale is Black20. Code for the 10 percent off sale is Cyber10. Scottsdale Resort & Conference Center Deal: 30 percent off rates plus a $25 nightly dining credit and $25 spa credit.
Linda and Jeff McMenamin in Dubai.
TELL US WHERE YOU’VE BEEN: To contribute to Your Travels, send a large, high-resolution JPEG attachment photo and a description or essay of up to 400 words to traveleditor@ arizonarepublic.com. We’ll contact you when your item is scheduled to be published.
tries, my husband and I found Dubai to be a unique destination. It’s both an upand-coming business center and a visitor’s paradise. PHOTOS BY LINDA MCMENAMIN
The writer lives in Scottsdale.
Burj al Arab hotel in Dubai, United Arab Emirates.
The resort fee is $20. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 2. Travel dates: Nov. 28-April 1. Blackout dates apply. Details: thescottsdaleresort.com/ packages/seasonal/scottsdale-blackfriday-cyber-monday-resort-package. The Boulders Deal: A resort credit of $50 per room booking. The nightly resort fee is $30. The cheapest rates of the sale period start at $199 a night and are in December. Booking dates: Nov. 27-Dec. 1. Travel dates: Nov. 28-April 30. Details: theboulders.com. Tempe Mission Palms Hotel Deal: 40 percent off best available rates. Resort fee is $14.95 per night. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1. Travel dates: Nov. 28-May 9, based on availability. Blackout dates apply. Details: missionpalms.com. The promo code is DBLKRO.
Travel dates: Through October. From April 1to Oct. 31; excludes weekend stays. Details: silveradoresort.com. The code is CYBER. Shore Hotel, Santa Monica, Calif. Deal: 30 percent off rooms with a partial ocean view. Booking date: Dec. 1. Travel dates: Dec. 1-Feb. 28. Details: shorehotel.com. The promo code is CYBER. Hard Rock Hotel San Diego Deal: Studio rooms start at $99 a night plus an upgrade if available at check-in. Bigger rooms start at $129 per night. The first five bookings on Dec. 1will get an upgrade to a Rock Star suite. The resort fee is $19 per night. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1. Travel dates: Nov. 28-Jan. 11, excluding New Year’s Eve. Details: hardrockhotelsd.com. The promo code is BF2014. Paradise Point, San Diego Deal: 45 percent off bayside bungalows and 40 percent off other rooms. The resort fee is $27 per night. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 2. Sign up for Paradise Point’s e-mail club or like the resort on Facebook to book earlier. Travel dates: Through April. Details: paradisepoint.com. Inn at Rancho Santa Fe, San Diego Deal: 25 percent off Experience the Inn package, which includes a $50 spa credit, daily breakfast for two and a room upgrade if available. Package rates start at $295 before the discount. Nightly resort fee is $25. Booking date: Dec. 1. Travel dates: Through 2015. Blackout dates apply. Details: theinnatrsf.com.
California SeaWorld San Diego Deal: A free companion ticket with the purchase of a 2015 Fun Card, which covers admission during 2015 except for a handful of blackout dates. The card costs $86 ($80 for ages 3-9). The companion ticket is good for one day’s admission. SeaWorld also is offering discounts on its specialty programs, including Dine With Shamu and Dolphin Interaction. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1. Travelers must sign up for SeaWorld’s e-mail offers. Travel dates: Rest of 2014 and all 2015. Details: pages02.net/seaworld/2014 swcbluefriday. Silverado Resort & Spa, Napa Valley Deal: 25 percent off best available rates plus a $50 nightly resort credit. The resort fee is $22 per night. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1.
Las Vegas
Deal: Up to 50 percent off a premier room. Rates start at $39 a night on select dates. The resort fee is $25 per night. Booking dates: Nov. 27-Dec. 5. Travel dates: Dec.1-June 30. Details: palms.com. The code is CYBER14. High Roller observation wheel Deal: Two-for-one tickets, excluding happy-hour rides. Booking date: Nov. 28 at the box office. Travel date: Nov. 28. Details: thelinq.com, click on High Roller. The booking code is HRBLKFRI.
Elsewhere Access Trips Deal: 25 percent off culinary, biking and surfing trips departing between Feb. 1 and Aug. 31. Destinations include Morocco, Vietnam, Thailand, Costa Rica, Turkey and Sonoma, Calif. Trips start at $1,240 per person before the discount. Booking dates: Nov. 30-Dec. 1. Travel dates: Feb. 1-Aug. 31. Details: accesstrips.com. The promo code is ADVENTURE25. Vacations by Marriott Deal: $100 off packages of four or more nights. Package must include airfare. Booking date: Dec. 1. Travel dates: Dec. 1-Aug. 31. Details: vacationsbymarriott.com. The promo code is Cyber100. Atlantis Resort, Bahamas Deal: Up to 50 percent off rooms, and kids 12 or younger eat breakfast and dinner free with the purchase of an adult meal plan. Two-night minimum stay. Booking dates: Nov. 28-Dec. 1. Travel dates: Dec. 1-March 31, excluding Dec. 18-Jan. 2. Details: atlantisbahamas.com.
Palms Las Vegas
Gallup ADVERTISEMENT
TO ADVERTISE CALL ELIZABETH MUNAFO 602-444-4384
emunafo@republicmedia.com
Experience hot air balloons, food and fun in New Mexico Ballooning is a sport for adventurers, families, the social, the playful and the young at heart. It’s relaxing and beautiful; a wonderful way to travel with many delightful surprises along the way. Gallup invites you to experience New Mexican hospitality at the 34th Annual Red Rock Balloon Rally, Friday, Dec. 5 through Sunday, Dec. 7. As one of the largest balloon events in the world, it is a favorite destination for balloon pilots with over 150 of these amazing lighterthan-air craft expected to participate. Whether up in the sky or on the ground taking it all in, the event is fun for everyone! Mass ascensions occur just after sunrise each morning providing a thrilling sight as a colorful array of giant balloons soar into the crisp, morning air. Hike up Pyramid or Church Rock trails to find a unique vantage point. Stroll along
the top of the red rock fingers and enjoy the procession of balloons floating past you at eye-level, kissing the canyon walls on their way up to the expansive, azure skies. The Rally offers more than just balloons: you can watch Native American groups performing traditional dances, see the downtown Christmas parade, or compete in the Pyramid Rock Run. After sunset, you'll have the opportunity to walk among the illuminated giants and listen to the whispers of their warm flames at the Balloominaria and Balloon Glow. After the balloons have landed, head into Gallup for some food and fun. Dine at one of Gallup’s many restaurants where you'll savor the very best New Mexican cuisine on the planet! Don't forget to try the red and green chile! Explore downtown art galleries and trading posts to discover
RED ROCK BALLOON RALLY
Experience New Mexican hospitality at the 34th Annual Red Rock Balloon Rally Dec. 5-Dec. 7.
world-class quality in jewelry, pottery, rugs, and more at attractive prices much lower than Santa Fe or Tucson. Downtown also features many beautiful outdoor cultural and historical murals and public art.
Active sports enthusiasts will be pleased to learn why Gallup was named "Adventure Capital of New Mexico." Hop on a mountain bike and ride at the Brickyard Bike Park right in town, or on the trails at the High Desert Trail
System or in Cibola NationalForest. Take a daytrip for incredible hiking opportunities at one of many nearby destinations, including El Morro and El Malpais National Monuments, Zuni Pueblo, and Canyon de Chelly Nation-
al Monument on the Navajo Reservation. There's so much to see and do in just one day that you may wish to settle in for the night. Gallup has extensive accommodation options, including the historic El Rancho Hotel where the movie stars of yesteryear stayed! Or come back to Gallup in the summer to experience rodeos, free nightly Indian Dances at the Courthouse Square,the 94th annualGallup Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial, and much more! For more information, visit RedRockBalloonRally.com or check out their Facebookpage.
Advertorial content produced by Republic Media Custom Publishing. For more information e-mail jlwilliams@republicmedia.com or call (602) 444-8658.
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December 5-7, 2014
RED ROCK BALLOON RALLY
GALLUP new mexico
“The Adventure Capital of New Mexico”
Join us the first weekend of December for mass ascensions at dawn with balloon glows and Indian dances in the evening. Whether up in the sky or on the ground, this event is fun for everyone! Friday. December 5: 2+9)=<+ 4=II 5I8#:IF&:I % D#7 D&8B .=!B 3+))$<+ C?&A F: GH# D&8BI ( >:7F=: /=:8#I % D#7 D&8B .=!B
Saturday, December 6: 2+9)=<+ 4=II 5I8#:IF&:I % D#7 D&8B .=!B -+9)=<+ .'!=<F7 D&8B @!=F? DE: % 6 4F?#I*0))"G 1?F<;F:J
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2:00pm: Downtown Christmas Parade 6:00pm: Balloominaria at Rio West Mall & Castle Furniture
Saturday, December 7: 2+9)=<+ 4=II 5I8#:IF&:I % D#7 D&8B .=!B “We invite you to visit Gallup for the most picturesque ballooning in the world. Come see our awe inspiring colors as balloonists ride the canyons of our Red Rock Park, eye to eye with Pyramid Peak and the steeples of Church Rock. With over 150 balloons maneuvering for the best descents to kiss the canyon walls, this spectacular event is not to be missed.” -Mayor Jackie McKinney Gallup, NM
CITY OF
www.redrockballoonrally.com AR-0008313807-01
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Mountain Village: A tale of second town telluride.com/tomboy-tavern.
RON DUNGAN THE REPUBLIC
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Mountain Lodge: This is exactly how you would picture a winter getaway: log and stone construction, a gas fireplace in the room, a balcony with mountain views. The kitchen and bathroom floors are stone; the trim and furniture a rich, knotty pine. The fully outfitted kitchen has a stove, refrigerator, coffee maker, microwave and table for four. The tub has whirlpool jets for those aching joints after a day on the slopes. The balcony overlooks pine trees and a distant mountain range. The bedroom has a television. Hotel amenities include a bar and restaurant, slopeside ski access, local paper, Wi-Fi, bathrobes, heated pool and spa services. Details: 457 Mountain Village Blvd. mountainlodgetelluride.com.
AZCENTRAL.COM
Just as Telluride is known for having two seasons, it has two towns — Telluride in the valley and Mountain Village higher up. A chairlift connects them. The ride to Mountain Village is an experience; the views on top are pretty special. This newer, upscale community doesn’t have the historical charm of Telluride, but it has plenty of lodging, restaurants and access to skiing and other sports. Every hotel in Mountain Village has an adventure desk, said Todd Gehrke of Hotel Madeline. Staff can organize your day with a heli-skiing adventure or a peaceful family sleigh ride, book time at a spa and make dinner reservations. They will talk to you before you arrive and work out the details so you don’t waste a minute of your time in the mountains. Eating and shopping are a snap because everything you need is a short walk away at one of the many plazas. You can walk from one to the next, from restaurant to bar to sport shop. Several Telluride businesses have satellite locations in Mountain Village, including Steaming Bean, Telluride Sports and Telluride Truffle chocolate shop. The village has a boutique and an ice-skating rink. You’ll find all manner of eateries, and you don’t have to spend a lot on lunch or dinner if you don’t want to. There are pizza places, a sports bar and a hot-dog joint called Diggity’s Dog House. Siam’s Talay Grille, featuring tapas and seafood, The Little
RON DUNGAN/THE REPUBLIC
Mountain Lodge in Mountain Village is how a visitor would envision a winter getaway.
Bar at Lumiere and Rev restaurant offer high-end choices. Smak Bar, in Hotel Madeline, beckons with a simple phrase: Boots off. Feet up. Glasses raised.
Lodging options Places to stay range from single rooms to condos to plush penthouses. Hotels boast ski-in, ski-out access, plus lockers, boot doctors to get you set up and the chair lift just a short, snowy stretch away. Here are a few recommendations:
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right out the back door,” said Erik Dalton, owner of the Jagged Edge, an outfitter. “There’s fabulous, fabulous ice climbing in this valley,” said Jon Miller of the Jagged Edge. “The ice climbing here is fantastic. So is the skiing, in all its forms. Basically, it’s whatever you want to do.” The winter fun begins around Thanksgiving, with the Festival of Lights, and continues into the spring. The town takes on a cozy feeling during the holidays, said Mark Westman of the Telluride.com travel website. Merchants serve hot cider and have drawings for discounts. Winter doesn’t lend itself to hardcore festivals, Westman said. It’s cold at night, and anyone not used to the altitude is probably going to be beat by the end of the day. “They’re getting that 5 o’clock dinner and going to sleep,” he said. In the summer, nights are warmer, and people come to camp, hike, fish, bike, shop, gawk at big mountains and attend festivals. A city park within walking distance of downtown offers camping for those who want to save on hotel costs. Telluride’s summer festivals have become legendary. The Telluride Film Festival, Bluegrass Festival and Blues and Brews are among the most popular. Rooms are booked months in advance. “In the summer we have a festival practically every weekend,” Westman said. Some businesses are so attuned to the peak seasons that they close their doors between them. I visited in the October off-season, before the last of the aspen leaves had fallen. I missed out on a few places, such as the historical New Sheridan Hotel and Chop House restaurant, but got some sweet deals on hotels. Telluride has a lot to offer anytime of year. Here are ideas to help plan a trip.
Shopping and things to do » Snow play: Telluride boasts about 300 days of sunshine a year. In addition to skiing and other adventurous pursuits, visitors can do something more laid back, such as take a sleigh ride or go sledding. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trails are available, and photography tours are offered year-round. Details: visittelluride.com/things-to-do. » Gondola ride: Even if you don’t ski, you’ll want to take this trip up to Mountain Village. The ride, which is free, takes about 13 minutes one way. Details: visittelluride.com/discover-telluride/ our-two-towns/gondola. » Shopping: You’ll find all sorts of locally owned shops. Arts and crafts, apparel, fine-art and gift shops are sandwiched among bars and restaurants. Telluride also has a pharmacy, grocery store and hardware store. You’ll find apparel stores such as Sublime, Down to Earth, CashmereRED and Two Skirts, and gift shops such as Zia Sun. Hub is there when you realize you forgot your phone charger or the shutterbug in your group needs an extra memory card. » Bring your dog: Big, small, breeds, mutts — all manner of canines are leashed to benches and bike racks outside shops, banks and restaurants. Lots of hotels are dog friendly, and on the streets, there are dog dishes with water. Just clean up after your pooch. If you forget something, Mountain Tails has you covered, with beds, toys, treats and dog food. Details: 307 E. Colorado Ave. mountaintails .com. » Between the Covers: This little shop has a good selection of fiction, non-fiction and children’s books. It keeps plenty of titles about outdoor recreation on hand so you can find
COLORADO TOURISM
Pets are welcome in Telluride, with water bowls scattered around the streets. that perfect hike. There’s a large selection of periodicals and an espresso shop in back. Details: 224 W. Colorado Ave. between-thecovers.com. » Bear Creek Trail: There are numerous trails in and around Telluride. This one is wide and well-maintained. Locals like to jog on it, but lowlanders may prefer to walk. You’ll gain 1,050 feet of elevation as you hike through aspens under towering mountain peaks. Along the way, you’ll hear the creek gurgle or rage until you reach the trail’s end and a series of waterfalls. The trail is 2.5 miles one way. Access is at the south end of Pine Street. Details: visittelluride.com/things-to-do/trailshuts/bear-creek-trail. » Fishing: Telluride is an angler’s paradise. Although summer is prime season, the San Miguel River is nearby and there are opportunities for fly-fishing during the winter. The Uncompahgre River, less than an hour away from Telluride, fishes well during the winter. Details: visittelluride.com/things-to-do. » Jagged Edge: This outfitter can set you up for a variety of outdoor adventures. The shop also has gear for backpacking, skiing, kayaking and river running. It can connect you with instruction in climbing on rock or ice, backcountry skiing or snowboarding, mountaineering, hut trips and hiking. Details: 223 E. Colorado Ave. jagged-edgetelluride.com. » Boot Doctors and Paragon Outdoors: Find gear, rentals, camping supplies, fat-tire bikes, guided hikes and bike tours here. And they know footwear — the friendly staff prides itself on keeping your feet happy on the slopes. Guided fat-tire bike tours end at a local brewery. Summer adventures include guided hikes and white-water rafting. Details: Three Telluride locations. boot doctors.com. » Telluride Sports: There are gear, rentals, apparel and outings galore. The Telluride Sports Adventure Desk can put you on a river, a trail, horseback or the end of a climbing rope. The lineup even includes photography tours and hot-air ballooning. Details: Numerous locations in Telluride and Mountain Village. telluridesports.com. » Telluride Nordic Center: This is where to rent ice skates and cross-country skis, take cross-country lessons or sign up for ski and snowshoe tours. The center has groomed trails that wind through Town Park. Details: Next to Town Park on Colorado Avenue. telluridetrails.org. » Telluride Angler: This full-service fly shop has rods, reels, flies and good advice about what the fish are up to. It offers guide service and access to private water. Details: 121 W. Colorado Ave. www .tellurideangler.com.
Tomboy Tavern: A few years ago, after a backpacking trip up a big mountain, a buddy and I visited Tomboy to get our fill of burgers and beer. A band was playing nearby, and lots of pedestrians were milling about Tomboy’s outdoor bar. During this October visit, there was not much pedestrian traffic and Tomboy Tavern was one of the few places open. I stopped in for lunch and had the tasty Tomboy shrimp tacos, with white corn tortillas, grilled shrimp, pico de gallo and avocado ($14). Most items on the menu will hit the spot without breaking the bank. Details: 562 Mountain Village Blvd.
are part of the arrangement. Mountain views. The Columbia is home to Cosmopolitan, known for casual, upscale dining. About a block from the chairlift. Details: 301 W. San Juan Ave. columbia telluride.com. » Victorian Inn: The Victorian Inn offers affordable rooms within walking distance of downtown. My off-season rate was less than $100. Twin-size rollaways are available for $20 and cribs are available on request. Each room comes with ski rack, hair dryer, mini refrigerator and coffee maker. You’ll also get continental breakfast, hot tub, washing machine and dryer, free wireless Internet, sauna (winter only) and daily maid service. Adjoining rooms and a cottage are available. About three blocks from the chairlift. Details: 401 W. Pacific Ave. victorianinn telluride.com. » Camel’s Garden: This high-end hotel is along the San Miguel River. My suite was spacious and elegant, with a fireplace, desk, leather couch and chairs, big-screen TV, small dining table, sink, refrigerator and large bathroom. Amenities include Atmosphere Day Spa, baby-sitting, continental breakfast and hot tub. Cribs and inflatable mattresses are available on request. My suite, which was 1,248 square feet, had a wonderful assortment of lights for reading and relaxing, a television in the bedroom and an iPod docking station. The building is modern, with clean lines and upscale design. Be sure to take advantage of the outdoor hot tub with a gorgeous mountain view. The basement parking is a bit cramped. Next to the chairlift — ski in, ski out. Details: 250 W. San Juan Ave. camels garden.com.
Places to eat » Steaming Bean: Telluride’s hip, comfy coffee shop is where locals go to get their caffeine fix or just pass the time. Frothy cappuccinos, pastries, breakfast burritos and sandwiches are on the menu. The granola bowl is hearty and well-balanced, with yogurt, bananas, strawberries and blueberries. The Steaming Bean also serves cocktails and craft beer. Details: 221 W. Colorado Ave. thesteaming bean.com. » Floradora Saloon: This is an old-fashioned saloon with a modern touch. Named for an old mine and a troupe of dancing girls, Floradora has been in business for 40 years. The menu features burgers and fries, with clever touches such as the delicious barbecue duck grilled cheese ($13). Floradora has friendly service and a wide selection of craft beer and high-end spirits. Details: 103 W. Colorado Ave. floradora saloon.com. » Brown Dog Pizza: You can get just about anything in this casual eatery, but if you haven’t tried Detroit-style pizza, give it a shot. Detroit pizza is characterized by a thick, fluffy, rectangular crust. The Brooklyn Bridge ($15), with mozzarella and brick cheeses, naturalcasing pepperoni, Italian sausage, chopped garlic, oregano and Pecorino Romano cheese,
Hotel Madeline: This luxury property has a restaurant, bar, spa and room types that range up to a swank penthouse. Staff can arrange activities before you arrive. “We try to give as much of a planned experience as possible,” Gehrke said. “We try to customize it to the individual.” Hotel Madeline has 85 rooms, 70 suites and condos with one to four bedrooms. Guests can use an open-air pool, fitness center, salon and other amenities. Details: 568 Mountain Village Blvd. hotelmadelinetelluride.com. Lumiere Hotel: This smaller property offers the same high-end experience as its larger neighbors. The hotel has 29 rooms that can be booked to meet the needs of groups large and small. Various styles and combinations, from residence-style lodging with a full kitchen to a five-bedroom penthouse with a private deck, hot tub and mountain views. Lumiere has a bar that also serves sushi and tapas. Details: 118 Lost Creek Lane. lumieretelluride .com.
was a finalist in the 2014 International Pizza Challenge. Brown Dog doesn’t take itself too seriously. Its menu logo is a big, cinderblockheaded dog with these words: “Thank you for dining with us! Sit. Eat. Drink. Good dog!” Details: 110 E. Colorado Ave. browndogpizza .com. » Cosmopolitan: This is casual fine dining at the foot of one of Telluride’s aspen-covered slopes. Sirloins, chicken and fish are available, but you may want to sample the butternut squash soup, a creamy, flavorful potion full of bits of chicken ($10.) Duck Two Ways comes with seared breast, confit, yaki soba noodles, local-pumpkin Thai sauce, oyster mushrooms, mango and asparagus ($29.) My server had the mango removed to accommodate my allergy. He also had lots of advice on the menu, specials and drink selection. Details: 300 W. San Juan Ave. cosmotelluride .com. » La Marmotte: La Marmotte is set in an old ice house built of stone, brick and wood. It’s dressed up with art, a few skis in the rafters, a 12-person chef’s table and a bar. The menu changes daily. I had a delicious juniper-dusted pork chop with oyster mushroom risotto and lingonberry sauce ($35). The menu also featured a “steak and eggs” appetizer with beef tartar and a crab-stuffed, deviled quail egg ($17). Details: 150 W. San Juan Ave. lamarmotte .com. » Baked in Telluride: This local favorite specializes in pastries and pizza. It’s where you go when you want something quick but don’t want to sacrifice quality. Grab-and-go doughnuts, scones, cookies and breads are made daily. Pizzas, salads and sandwiches are available to order. Details: 127 S. Fir St. telluride.com/bakedtelluride. » Honga’s Lotus Petal: Honga’s is in the Roma Cafe and Bar, established in 1897. It retains the saloon’s bar, mirror and a few old-fashioned touches, but the focus is on Asian food, including Korean duck tacos, Vietnamese pork meatballs and sushi. Honga’s also has a nice lineup of salads. I ordered the spinach salad with walnuts, apple slices, brussels sprouts and fig balsamic dressing ($4, plus $4 for organic chicken). A couple of days later, I dropped in for sushi and had the KantMakm roll, with tuna, jalapeño, cilantro and pickled ginger, wrapped in avocado. ($19). Both meals were delicious. Details: 135 E. Colorado Ave. hongaslotus petal.com. » Maggie’s Bakery and Cafe: Say you’re tired of trendy ski-town bistros and just want a late breakfast of bacon and eggs. Maggie’s has you covered. Checkered plastic tablecloths, hardwood floors and a menu featuring burgers, sandwiches and breakfast until 3 p.m. Outdoor seating is available. Details: 300 W. Colorado Ave. maggies bakeryandcafe.com.
MORE TO EXPLORE For more things to do in Telluride and Mountain Village, plus slideshows and videos, go to travel.azcentral.com.
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Places to stay For a full list of lodging options, including condo rentals, go to visittelluride.com, telluridelodging.com, tellurideresortlodging .com or telluride.com. » Hotel Columbia: This upscale downtown hotel has 21 rooms, ranging from studios to a three-bedroom penthouse. The lobby is small but well-lit and welcoming. My one-bedroom lodging packed in a lot in a small space: couch, footrest, chairs, gas fireplace, bed and small kitchen with sink, two-burner range, refrigerator and microwave. The bathroom had a clawfoot tub and a glass shower with faux stone walls. There are only about 20 parking spaces in a small alleyway, so valet parking and potential games of musical cars
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Jacques is Chef PĂŠpin's first restaurant to bear his name on land or sea and resembles a classic Parisian bistro decorated with art from his personal collection.
Jacques PĂŠpin and family to host culinary focused Mediterranean cruise World-renowned master chef and Oceania Cruises Executive Culinary Director, Jacques PĂŠpin, will host a special sailing onboard Riviera next summer and it promises to be a family affair. The legendary chef's daughter Claudine, co-Host of Jacques' award-winning "Cooking with Claudine" television series, and his granddaughter Shorey will join PĂŠpin and his wife Gloria on the 10-day Iberian Inspiration departing Lisbon for Rome on July 7, 2015. The sailing will feature exclusive cooking demonstrations, specially designed signature menus, book signings and many more surprises. Making the sailing even more special, guests can share in an 80th birthday celebration for Chef PĂŠpin, one of the culinary world's most beloved personalities. "The Mediterranean sailing onboard Oceania Cruises is a special time and it will be a true delight sharing these moments with my entire family," shares Executive Culinary Director Jacques PĂŠpin. "I have so many memories in the ports we will visit including Barcelona, Provence and Portofino and look forward to sharing them with all the guests joining us on this voyage." More ports of this highlight-filled cruise include MĂĄlaga, Cartagena, and Ibiza, Spain, plus Monte Carlo, Monaco and Livorno, Italy - gateway to treasures of Florence and Pisa. In addition to scheduled demonstrations and formal book signings, Chef PĂŠpin the artist will share his passion for painting in the Artist Loft. A selection of his works are currently on display in his namesake restaurant and the chef enjoys speaking on art as much as he does fine cuisine. Always available for unstructured discussions throughout the ship, Chef PĂŠpin truly enjoys visiting with guests and discussing travel. He will be seen throughout Riviera including
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Immerse yourself in the joy of cooking at Oceania Cruises' Bon AppĂŠtit Culinary Center, the world's only hands-on culinary studio at sea.
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Executive Culinary Director Jacques PĂŠpin brings his legendary cuisine and unique culinary artistry to the restaurants of Oceania Cruises.
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Martinis and Horizons for tea eager to tell stories and share his memories. Jacques PĂŠpin is the host of award-winning cooking shows, author of more than 20 cookbooks and has served as personal chef to numerous heads of state. As the Executive Culinary Director for Oceania Cruises, PĂŠpin's legendary cuisine and unique artistry is featured in the gourmet restaurants onboard the entire fleet including his namesake restaurant Jacques onboard Riviera and Marina. Jacques, his first restaurant at sea, is a favorite of guests, drawing inspiration from bistros in his hometown of Lyon and the fabled bistros of Paris. Highlights of the menu include an appetiz-
er of homemade Pumpkin Soup å l'Anglaise served in a pumpkin shell, fresh Mussels Marinière, freshly roasted free range chicken, duck, lamb and other specialty cuts of fine meat. "Jacques PÊpin has been a member of the Oceania Cruises family since the line's inception and we are honored to once again have him onboard as a delightful treat to our guests," shares Oceania Cruises President Kunal S. Kamlani. "Jacques is such a gracious host, guests will be treated to endless stories from his illustrious career and will be able to put their own cooking skills to the test with some hands-on instruction at the Culinary Center. Add in that we will be celebrating with Jacques his 80th birthday, and it creates a once-in-a-lifetime cruise experience our guests will never forget." Comfortably mid-size, Riviera is Oceania Cruises’ newest ship designed for lovers of fine dining and travel experiences. In addition to Jacques, guests onboard Riviera may dine in any of the six distinctly different restaurants, including the Asian-inspired Red Ginger, all at no additional charge. Beautifully decorated Veranda Staterooms for this event-filled voyage are currently available from Worldview Travel from $5,999 per person including round-trip air from Phoenix. Call Oceania Cruises specialists today at 888-609-1178 for complete details.
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Jacques PĂŠpin, also an exhibiting artist, will share his passion for painting in the Artist Loft - a hands-on program aboard Riviera.
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*Fares are in U.S. dollars and subject to increase 12/31/2014. All fares are per person in U.S. dollars, valid for residents of United States and Canada, based on double occupancy (unless otherwise noted), for new bookings only and may be withdrawn at any time. Hotels and amenities subject to availability and are for new bookings made after 9/17/14. 50% Off Deposits applies to voyages that are not within final payment. Free Unlimited Internet and Shipboard Credit are one per stateroom. Not all promotions are combinable. 2 for 1 and Early Booking Savings are based on published Full Brochure Fares; such fares may not have resulted in actual sales in all cabin categories and do not include optional charges as detailed in the Guest Ticket Contract, which may be viewed, along with additional terms, at OceaniaCruises.com. “Free Airfare� promotion does not include ground transfers and applies to coach, roundtrip flights only from the following airports: ATL, BOS, CLT, DCA, DEN, DFW, DTW, EWR, HNL, IAH, IAD, JFK, LAX, LGA, MCO, MDW, MIA, ORD, PHL, PHX, SAN, SAV, SEA, SFO, TPA, YOW, YUL, YVR, YYZ. Airfare is available from all other U.S. and Canadian gateways for an additional charge. Any advertised fares that include the “Free Airfare� promotion include all airline fees, surcharges and government taxes. Airline-imposed personal charges such as baggage fees may apply. For details visit exploreflightfees.com. Ships’ Registry: Marshall Islands. Worldview Travel strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance. We reserve the right to correct errors or AR-0008306511-01 omissions. CST#1008676-10