Drive Time: Watches Inspired by Automobiles, Motorcycles and Racing

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THE HISTORY OF THE PORSCHE DESIGN WATCHES

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Breitling for Bentley Chronograph (2003) WATCHMAKER

BREITLING INSPIRATION/AFFILIATION

BENTLEY MOTOR CARS MODEL

MULTIPLE

AT FIRST GLANCE, the marriage between Breitling and Bentley might not appear to be a natural pairing: Breitling was known as a pilot’s watchmaker, while Bentley’s racing heritage had lessened during its years under the aegis of Rolls-Royce. Lo and behold, the nuptials have lasted, blossoming into one of the most enduring such collaborations ever—a powerful partnership for more than a decade and a combination of British chic and Swiss precision.

Initially, just two Breitling “Bentley Motors special edition” timepieces were made available—a far cry from today’s expansive collection. Both were released to commemorate Bentley’s participation in the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 2003, the first year Volkswagen AG had sole control of the marquee. The better of

the two was the oversize stainless-steel automatic chronograph with a bronze sunburst dial, its back boldly embossed with the Bentley logo, and a brown croc band.

Each year at Baselworld, the Swiss watch-and-jewelry trade show, Breitling now releases an entire suite of new, typically oversized chronographs that, as of 2013, come equipped with Manufacture Breitling movements developed and produced in-house. If you’re a fan of either Breitling or Bentley, these watches are certainly suited for your wrist.

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MODEL PICTURED: BREITLING FOR BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04 (2014)

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Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (1963) WATCHMAKER

ROLEX INSPIRATION/AFFILIATION

ROLEX 24 AT DAYTONA INTERNATIONAL SPEEDWAY RACE MODEL

MULTIPLE

THERE ARE waiting lists at dealers for new ones, and vintage examples sell at auctions for seven figures. Among auto-inspired wristwatches, the Rolex Daytona is unrivaled, the top timepiece for collectors, race enthusiasts, and other fashionable types for five decades.

Named for the Daytona Continental, a fabled race now known as the Rolex 24 at Daytona, the watch has a kindred automobile, the Ferrari Daytona. Among the factors in its rise was its connection to a moderately successful actor by the name of Paul Newman.

Newman wore the same watch, given to him by his wife, Joanne Woodward, from 1972 (when he first got into racing) until his death in 2008. His Daytona sported what’s known as an “exotic” dial. Although such dials differ from standard ones in several ways, their primary distinction is their subdials, which come in the opposite or a contrasting color to the main dial.

Connoisseurs will inform you that for a Rolex Daytona to be a “true” Paul Newman (though Rolex itself has never referred to the exotic dial that way), it must be one of the following models: 6239, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264, or 6265. It must also have a manualwind, stainless steel, non-Oyster case with non-screw-down pushers. (There are exceptions; the first Daytona that sold at auction for more than $1 million, a black Rolex Cosmograph Oyster Paul Newman, had screw-down pushers). Oh, and a pre-Triplock crown, all of this along with the exotic dial. You can see why they’re scarce.

Ultimately, watch, race, and man are forever linked, and this history (as well as ageless design) has helped the Rolex Daytona maintain its status as the world’s most celebrated race-inspired chronograph wristwatch.

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MODEL PICTURED: ROLEX COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA IN 950 PLATINUM, WITH CHESTNUT-BROWN MONOBLOC CERAMIC BEZEL AND ICE-BLUE DIAL 50TH ANNIVERSARY (2013)

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BLANCPAIN + LAMBORGHINI Watchmaker: Blancpain Inspiration/Affiliation: Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4 and Super Trofeo Models: Super Trofeo Chronograph + L-evolution Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph Super Trofeo Chronograph in DLC coated steel (2009)

IT STANDS TO REASON that the watch partner of Lamborghini (since 2009) would be deeply ingrained in motorsports, yet Blancpain goes even deeper: It’s not just the title sponsor of the Lamborghini Blancpain Super Trofeo but has its own Blancpain GT Series in collaboration with SRO Motorsports Group. Under its aegis: the Blancpain Endurance Series (five events

arranged around the Total 24 Hours of Spa) and the Blancpain Sprint Series (seven events with two one-hour races per event).

Despite this flurry of activity, few timepieces have emerged from this relationship: First was the limited (300 pieces) DLC (diamond-like carbon) coated-steel Super Trofeo

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Chronograph with Blancpain Calibre F185 movement, inspired by the sleek profile of the Gallardo. A year later Blancpain released the 43.5mm L-evolution Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph with titanium case with all-fiber dial and lugs, plus an oscillating weight shaped like a double checkered flag—the perfect accessory for a Lambo owner.

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved

CORUM + ROLLS-ROYCE Watchmaker: Corum Inspiration/Affiliation: Rolls-Royce Model: Spirit of Ecstasy (multiple versions) Spirit of Ecstasy (a.k.a. “Rolls-Royce Grille Watch”) in white gold (circa 1980s)

WATCH FANZINE Hodinkee called the Corum Rolls-Royce Spirit of Ecstasy “the Most Gangsta-Ass Watch Ever Made”—an assessment that’s difficult to argue with.

screams 1970s style; Corum debuted the watch in 1976 with a Swiss-made movement. (It also made mechanical and quartz versions; production lasted into the early 1990s.

It might also be the most literal interpretation of the automotive-inspired wristwatch, with a small replica RollsRoyce grille and winged-lady hood ornament (officially “the Spirit of Ecstasy”) notched into the band. It

The versions Corum released were all white or yellow gold, some with onyx or diamonds. In some, the grille slats were appliquéd to the dial; one even had the slats incorporated into the case so they were above the crys-

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tal and dial, thus slightly obscuring the hands.

A slight design update came in a limited edition (30 pieces) in 1997 in which the slats ran partially across the dial, forming a circular design with the Spirit of Ecstasy on the case, evoking the Rolls-Royce Silver Seraph’s grille. These watches regularly pop up at auction.

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CYRUS + W MOTORS Watchmaker: Cyrus Inspiration/Affiliation: W Motors Lykan Hypersport Model: Cyrus Klepcys W Motors Cyrus Klepcys W Motors in white gold (circa 2013)

THE EXTREMELY limited-edition (just seven examples) Cyrus Klepcys W Motors was already one of the most exclusive Drive Time watches; only the Romain Jerome H9C-DNA and Wilhelm Rieber Maybach Tourbillon — and of course the one-off A. Lange & Söhne — come close.

Ultimately, though, the Cyrus might be the rarest in the book. Why? Because it might never be released.

lion W Motors Lykan Hypersport vehicles, and get the watch. Alas, the timepiece got caught in an internal political scuffle at Cyrus, and when it all ended, there went the relationship with W Motors. So even though the 48mm watches (with the W Motors logo prominent on the lower right corner of the white gold case) were produced, they sit in a safe in Switzerland, not known for being so near the Near East.

The watch was technically a gift with purchase: Buy one of the seven $3.4 mil-

If the Klepcys won’t ever be released, why include it here? Because it’s exceptional,

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developed in collaboration with JeanFrançois Moon (who won Best Watchmaker at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) having three world patents, a double retrograde (hours + date) and a realistic 3D model of the moon that’s slowly veiled by a black patch to indicate the lunar phase. Plus there are non-W Motors versions.

One can certainly hope that this won’t be Cyrus’s only foray into an automotive collaboration.

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BELL & ROSS + SHAW SPEED & CUSTOM Watchmaker: Bell & Ross Inspiration/Affiliation: Shaw Speed & Custom Harley Davidson B-Rocket Model: BR01 B-Rocket + BR03 B-Rocket BR01 B-Rocket in steel (2014)

TO DATE,

the Parisian mini-luxury house Bell & Ross (whose watch manufacture is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland) and British Shaw Speed & Custom (part of the Shaw Harley-Davidson dealership headquartered in southern England) have collaborated on two custom-built Harleys infused with B&R gauges. The partnership has resulted in some of the coolest bikes ever made.

Their initial release, in 2011, was the one-off custom Nascafe Racer, based on an FXSTB Softail Nightrain. Their sophomore effort was the hyper-aerodynamic B-Rocket, based on a Harley FXS Softail Blackline—a custom bike inspired by 1960s land-speed-recordsetting rocket-propelled cars and jet aircraft. Along with the bike came two watches: a 46mm steel BR01 B-Rocket,

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an automatic chronograph with a datum tachymeter scale on the dial; and the 42mm BR03 B-Rocket, with a large date window and power-reserve indicator. Both have padded leather straps, edged in red, that echo the look of the bike seat.

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved

AUTODROMO + VIC ELFORD Watchmaker: Officine Autodromo Inspiration/Affiliation: Vintage auto-dial designs Model: Prototipo Vic Elford Edition Limited Edition Vic Elford Edition Prototipo Chronograph, 42mm brushed steel case with integrated lugs (2013)

TAKE A LITTLE Brooklyn chic and Italian swagger, blend with a contemporary, minimalist sensibility and vintage midcentury character and you’ve got Officine Autodromo Prototipo, perhaps the best-received indie race-inspired watchand-accessories line, “Instruments for Motoring,” in recent memory.

Industrial designer and vintage racer Bradley Price created Autodromo in 2011, and the Motoring Chronograph line (to which the Prototipo belongs), launched in 2013, was his stunning sophomore effort.

The Prototipo Vic Elford, a tribute to a living legend of motorsports, was Autodromo’s second limited edition, with just 224 (Elford’s race number) made.

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Price’s designs earn these pieces their notice here: The Prototipos (four standard models readily available, in addition to the sold-out Elford) exude an early-1970s superfly cool by way of subtle matte metallic cases, accented by brightly colored hands and powered by a made-in-Japan Seiko VK63 chronograph hybrid Meca-Quartz movement.

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