Cooking School: Mastering Classic and Modern French Cuisine

EASY

4 SPREADS AND DIPS

Aïoli

Eggplant caviar

6

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

Anchoïade

Tapenade

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

EASY

Makes 12 fritters

TIPS FROM OUR CHEFS

Preparation time 20 minutes Cooking time 4 minutes per batch Resting time 40 minutes

A WELL-NEEDED REST The batter needs to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature so that the flour can absorb the liquid. This Nice-style batter can also be used to coat zucchini sticks, eggplant (aubergine) slices, and acacia flowers before frying.

Filling Salt

Batter

FRESHNESS IS A MUST The zucchini flowers must be very fresh. Make this dish the same day you buy the flowers.

SERVING Serve these hot and crispy fritters as an appetizer, or as an accompaniment to fish or stuffed vegetables.

1 large egg 150 g – 5.29 ounces (1 1/4 cups) flour Salt Olive oil Oil for deep-frying 40

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

EASY

Zucchini flower fritters 01.

02.

03.

04.

05.

Make the batter: Break the egg into a small container. Place the flour in a bowl. Add a pinch of salt and mix.

Add the egg. Add a little olive oil. Mix gently. Add a little water and mix. Continue to add water while whisking the mixture until you have a smooth batter.

Strain the batter through a strainer (sieve) to remove any lumps, pressing down with a spatula (scraper).

Let stand for 30 minutes.

Cut the zucchini flowers off of the zucchini, if attached, and reserve zucchini for another use.

Remove and discard the bottoms of the flowers and the pistils (page 560).

Gently open out the flowers without tearing. Spread them out on paper towels.

Mix the batter well. Use a brush to apply the batter to the flowers. Turn them over and do the same on the other side.

Arrange the coated flowers in a single layer on a baking sheet (tray). Let rest for 10 minutes.

01.

02.

During this time, heat the oil in a deep fryer (deepfat fryer) with the basket inside to 160ºC – 320ºF. Gently lay four zucchini flowers inside the basket. Fry for 2 minutes in the oil. Turn over. Fry for another 2 minutes.

Take the basket out of the fryer. Remove the flowers and drain on paper towels.

Cook the rest of the flowers the same way. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately

05.

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

41

EASY

Ratatouille

Serves 6 Preparation + Cooking time 1 hour 30 minutes

2 onions 2 eggplants (aubergines) 2 yellow bell peppers 1 green bell pepper 2 red bell peppers 4 medium zucchini (courgettes) 3 cloves garlic 6 (130-g – 4.59-ounce) vine tomatoes Leaves of 1 bunch basil 150 ml – 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided Salt Freshly ground pepper

TIPS FROM OUR CHEFS KEEPING THE BEST QUALITIES Cooking the ingredients separately allows them to stay crisp, keep their color, and retain their vitamins (the cooking time is shorter), and it makes it easy for the water they contain to evaporate.

RINSING It’s essential to rinse the pan after cooking the tomatoes, because their acidity could cause the zucchini to change color.

SERVING Serve this ratatouille as an accompaniment to meat or fish, or serve it as a one-course meal with scrambled eggs. Serve hot or cold.

42

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

EASY

01.

Peel the onions. Halve and chop (page 576). Slice off the top and bottom of the eggplants.

Use a vegetable peeler to remove alternating bands of skin. Cut the eggplants in half widthwise, then quarter each half lengthwise. Cut each piece into 1.5-cm – 1/2-inch wide batons, then dice.

03.

02.

Cut off the top and bottom of the bell peppers. Stand them upright. Cut off the flesh around the core. Cut each pepper into four lobes at each of the ribs. Peel each piece with a vegetable peeler (page 562).

Cut the pieces into batons, and then dice.

05.

Peel. Halve them horizontally and scoop out the seeds with a small spoon.

Quarter each tomato half in one direction, then in the other direction.

Rinse the basil and dry gently.

Cut off the top and bottom of the zucchini. Cut in half widthwise. Cut around the core containing the seeds (page 560). Discard the core. Cut each piece into 1-cm – 3/8-inch wide batons, then dice.

Cut the garlic cloves in half.

Peel and remove the green cores. Coarsely chop, then finely dice.

04.

Remove the stems (stalks) from the tomatoes and discard.

Cut an X in the base of each tomato. Immerse for 10 seconds in boiling water, then in ice water (page 572).

Once the tomatoes have cooled, remove them from the water.

44

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

EASY

06.

Put 1 tablespoon of oil into a deep skillet or frying pan.

Add the onions. Season with salt and mix. Add 4 or 5 basil leaves. Brown for 3 minutes over medium heat. Add the bell peppers. Season with salt and pepper. Add a few more basil leaves. Mix gently and cook for 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

07.

Heat 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon of olive oil in the same pan. Add the eggplants and season with salt and pepper. Add 10 basil leaves. Cover the pan and cook for 10 minutes, stirring from time to time. Transfer the contents of the pan to a colander and let drain.

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in the same pan. Add the garlic and sautĂŠ to soften for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Add 6 or 7 basil leaves. Mix and let cook, uncovered, for 8 minutes. Add to the onion mixture.

08.

Rinse and dry the pan. Heat 2 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the zucchini and season with salt and pepper. Add 4 or 5 basil leaves.

Cook for 5 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time. Add to the tomato mixture. Add the eggplant. Mix gently.

Transfer the ratatouille to a serving dish and decorate with a few basil leaves.

Š 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

45

EASY

Boulangère potatoes

01.

Serves 4 Preparation time 25 minutes Cooking time 1 hour 30 minutes Resting time 40 minutes

Gratin 2 leeks (only white part) 600 ml – 2 1/2 cups chicken broth or stock, hot

02.

Bouquet garni 2 leek leaves 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs thyme 1 bunch parsley, only stems (stalks)

TIPS FROM OUR CHEFS A LONG TRADITION The word boulangère (“baker”) comes from the old tradition of taking a dish of potatoes and meat to the local bakery. It was cooked slowly in the oven after the bread had been baked and the fire was put out. Likewise, the Alsatian dish baeckeoffe actually means “baker’s oven.”

52

03.

04.

05.

Preheat the oven to 160°C – 325°F (gas mark 4).

Wash the leeks. Cut off the tops. Set aside. Cut the roots off the leeks. Cut the leeks into approximately 3-mm – 1/8-inch slices. Make the bouquet garni: Cut two leek leaves into lengths of 7–8 cm – 2 3/4– 3 1/4 inches. Lay the bay leaf, thyme, and parsley stems on top. Wrap the leaves around the herbs. Tie the bundle closed with kitchen twine (page 600).

Bring the chicken broth to a boil. Add the bouquet garni. Let infuse for 20 minutes.

Wash, brush, and peel the potatoes. Soak in water.

Drain. Use a mandoline slicer to cut the potatoes into slices approximately 3-mm – 1/8-inch thick (page 570).

Grease the dish with some of the softened butter using the back of a spoon. Make a layer of potato slices over the bottom of the dish. Then line the sides of the dish, overlapping the slices.

Add the leek slices, placing them side by side. Make a second layer of overlapped potato slices. Alternate rows of leeks and potatoes.

The final layer should be a rosette of potatoes covering the entire dish. Season with salt. Cut the rest of the butter into cubes and distribute over the dish. Pour the hot chicken broth over the potatoes.

Bake in the oven for 1 hour 30 minutes. When cooked, collect the liquid with a spoon. Drizzle it over the dish to prevent the potatoes from drying out.

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

02.

03.

TIPS FROM OUR CHEFS MOISTEN WELL Measure out the amount of chicken broth according to the size of your dish; the dish should be filled to the rim with liquid so that the potatoes remain tender and don’t dry out.

05.

A CLASSIC According to Provençal tradition, you can cook a leg or shoulder of lamb, with the fat removed, on a bed of potatoes. There is no need for butter, because the potatoes will soak up the meat juices.

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

ANNEXES

I N F O R M A T I O N A B O U T I N G R E D I E N T S

B A S I C

fruit And vegetABles Apple

A

green AlMonds

Varieties There are thousands of apple varieties on record, some of which are very old, but today many of these are no longer grown. At most, there are about a dozen varieties widely available.

They are traditionally classified as “eating apples” or “cooking apples,” but many of them are as good raw as they are cooked. Cider apples have a sour taste that makes them unsuitable for other uses.

Preparation Green almonds are soft. They can be opened easily by cutting them in half with a sharp knife (if the shell resists, open very carefully with a nutcracker).

Remove the almond halves from the shell with a knife tip.

Detach the skin with a knife tip, starting at the pointed end. Pull the skin off.

Use for any recipe that calls for peeled green almonds.

Tips from our chefs If you use dried almonds, poach them for 10 minutes in boiling milk before peeling.

They will come be whiter than if poached in water.

550

• Golden delicious is the most common variety. This is the apple of the modern age, and it has expanded its reach with the growth of supermarkets. It originated in North America as a chance seedling, but its adaptability has made it popular all over Europe. Its yellow flesh is juicy and very sweet, but perhaps a little bland. It is good for use in pies and tarts, because it stays firm when cooked.

• Pink lady is named for its distinctive color. This Golden Delicious hybrid has a stronger flavor.

• Reine de reinette, known in English as the King of the Pippins, is one of the oldest French apple varieties.

It is also considered to be the best.

While biting into its coarse and slightly bitter skin is less inviting, its flesh is very tasty and filled with fresh flavor.

It is delicious raw, but equally perfect

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

iNformAtioN About bASiC iNgrEdiENtS

for making compotes, jams, chutney, and sauces. It is a good choice for pastries, because it softens very quickly.

• Royal gala, a close relative of the Gala, is redder.

• Fuji, as its name indicates, is native to Japan. Its very sweet flesh is crisp and full of juice.

• Braeburn is a very round apple, with smooth and shiny skin colored dark red over a pale green background.

Sweet and juicy, it is an excellent eating apple.

• Nashi, also a native of Japan, resembles a cross between an apple and a pear; it looks like the former but tastes like the latter.

• Reinette grise du Canada, a younger sister to the Reine de Reinette, is increasingly found on the shelves in stores.

• Chanteclerc or belchard, another relative of the Reine de Reinette, is the result of crossing the Golden Delicious with the Reinette Clochard.

Its fine, crisp, and slightly acidic flesh is very aromatic.

• Gala, originating in New Zealand, is a somewhat large apple. Its skin is almost completely covered with orange and bright red over a yellow background. Its flesh is juicy and very sweet.

• Granny smith owes its name to the Australian grandmother who grew this variety in her garden in the late nineteenth century. This variety with incomparably shiny, bright green skin is greatly appreciated for its crisp, juicy, and slightly tart flesh. It can be pan-fried in slices or quarters with its skin, or served raw in a salad.

Remember to drizzle it with lemon juice, because its white flesh oxidizes particularly fast.

• Cox’s orange pippin has reddish orange skin and sweet yellow flesh that melts in the mouth. It is one of the best eating apples.

• Starking, with bright and shiny scarlet skin, has a reputation for flesh that is sometimes mealy.

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

551

ANNEXES

I N F O R M A T I O N A B O U T I N G R E D I E N T S

B A S I C

fruit And vegetABles Apple

A

green AlMonds

Varieties There are thousands of apple varieties on record, some of which are very old, but today many of these are no longer grown. At most, there are about a dozen varieties widely available.

They are traditionally classified as “eating apples” or “cooking apples,” but many of them are as good raw as they are cooked. Cider apples have a sour taste that makes them unsuitable for other uses.

Preparation Green almonds are soft. They can be opened easily by cutting them in half with a sharp knife (if the shell resists, open very carefully with a nutcracker).

Remove the almond halves from the shell with a knife tip.

Detach the skin with a knife tip, starting at the pointed end. Pull the skin off.

Use for any recipe that calls for peeled green almonds.

Tips from our chefs If you use dried almonds, poach them for 10 minutes in boiling milk before peeling.

They will come be whiter than if poached in water.

550

• Golden delicious is the most common variety. This is the apple of the modern age, and it has expanded its reach with the growth of supermarkets. It originated in North America as a chance seedling, but its adaptability has made it popular all over Europe. Its yellow flesh is juicy and very sweet, but perhaps a little bland. It is good for use in pies and tarts, because it stays firm when cooked.

• Pink lady is named for its distinctive color. This Golden Delicious hybrid has a stronger flavor.

• Reine de reinette, known in English as the King of the Pippins, is one of the oldest French apple varieties.

It is also considered to be the best.

While biting into its coarse and slightly bitter skin is less inviting, its flesh is very tasty and filled with fresh flavor.

It is delicious raw, but equally perfect

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

iNformAtioN About bASiC iNgrEdiENtS

for making compotes, jams, chutney, and sauces. It is a good choice for pastries, because it softens very quickly.

• Royal gala, a close relative of the Gala, is redder.

• Fuji, as its name indicates, is native to Japan. Its very sweet flesh is crisp and full of juice.

• Braeburn is a very round apple, with smooth and shiny skin colored dark red over a pale green background.

Sweet and juicy, it is an excellent eating apple.

• Nashi, also a native of Japan, resembles a cross between an apple and a pear; it looks like the former but tastes like the latter.

• Reinette grise du Canada, a younger sister to the Reine de Reinette, is increasingly found on the shelves in stores.

• Chanteclerc or belchard, another relative of the Reine de Reinette, is the result of crossing the Golden Delicious with the Reinette Clochard.

Its fine, crisp, and slightly acidic flesh is very aromatic.

• Gala, originating in New Zealand, is a somewhat large apple. Its skin is almost completely covered with orange and bright red over a yellow background. Its flesh is juicy and very sweet.

• Granny smith owes its name to the Australian grandmother who grew this variety in her garden in the late nineteenth century. This variety with incomparably shiny, bright green skin is greatly appreciated for its crisp, juicy, and slightly tart flesh. It can be pan-fried in slices or quarters with its skin, or served raw in a salad.

Remember to drizzle it with lemon juice, because its white flesh oxidizes particularly fast.

• Cox’s orange pippin has reddish orange skin and sweet yellow flesh that melts in the mouth. It is one of the best eating apples.

• Starking, with bright and shiny scarlet skin, has a reputation for flesh that is sometimes mealy.

© 2016 Rizzoli International Publications. All Rights Reserved.

551