Retail Focus October 2017

retail focus

OCTOBER 2017 : £6.75 #92

October 2017/issue 92

retail focus WWW.RETAIL-FOCUS.CO.UK

Sweaty Betty : Smeg : Jigsaw: London Design Festival : Design & shopfitting : Lighting supplement : Readers’ Choice Award : In & Around St Christopher’s Place : Focus on POP & display : Q&A with Dr Dorothy Maxwell at House of Fraser

SET THE SCENE Jigsaw arrives in King’s Cross

Sweaty Betty : Smeg : Jigsaw : London Design Festival : Design & shopfitting : Lighting supplement Readers’ Choice Award : St Christopher’s Place : Q&A with Dr Dorothy Maxwell at House of Fraser

T 0207 3771776 info@blacksvisual.com www.blacksvisual.com FOLLOW US @blacksvisuallondon Blacks Visual London Blacks Visual London

contents

CONTENTS Set the scene

35-36

Jigsaw’s latest store opening at Three Pancras Square in London’s King’s Cross boasts a theatre-inspired design.

Design 10 London Festival 2017

43 Lighting supplement

Around: 71 InSt &Christopher’s Place

and 39 Design shopfitting

65 Readers’ Choice Award

on: 88 Focus POP & display

7 8

Leader

26-36 Project Focus Sweaty Betty Carnaby : Smeg St James’s Market : Jigsaw King’s Cross.

Diary

13-16 News 18-20 Window shopping

75

Matthew Ellison, head of planning at The Shopper Agency, discusses banning the male beauty stigma.

Inspiring window displays from around the globe.

22

Top of the POPS

25

Karl McKeever To take stores from the everyday to the exceptional requires more than simply attitude and efficiency. says Karl.

Opinion

71

In and Around...

St Christopher’s Place.

The perfect balance of shopping and dining in true cosmopolitan style.

The podcast for the retail industry Listen on www.theretailexchange.co.uk Download and listen later, wherever you are

77-86 Products Products and services for the retail industry.

94

Q&A Dr Dorothy Maxwell, head of sustainability at House of Fraser, talks about the brand’s new sustainable Rushden Lakes store.

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leader

welcome October ‘17 ‘We welcomed a panel of judges to WallaceSpace Bloomsbury in September to whittle down the finalists for the Retail Focus Readers’ Choice Award at the VM & Display Awards in November. Turn to P65 to see the finalists and for details of how to cast your vote.

‘In retail spaces designers now have to think, is this Instagrammable?’ said a spokesperson from Sweaty Betty’s in-house store design team when speaking about the brand’s new European flagship at No. 1 Carnaby Street. We are seeing a lot more ’selfie’ moments in store to delight and excite customers.

Find out more about the new store on P26-28.

Round the corner, St James’s Market has welcomed a state-of-the-art flagship for Smeg. The experiential store is designed as a contemporary, modern and spacious interior to inspire and share Smeg’s design values, complete with a theatre for cooking demonstrations (P30-32). Speaking of theatre, Jigsaw has opened its latest store in Three Pancras Square in King’s Cross with a theatre-inspired design. The ambience of the store is influenced by art studios and backstage theatre (P35-36).

Chiara Onida, senior 3D designer at Seen Displays, looks back at highlights from London Design Festival (P10-11), while Matthew Ellison, head of planning at The Shopper Agency, explores the male beauty sector on P75.

We also look at design and shopfitting, and the importance of communication (P39-40), and bring you a dedicated lighting supplement starting on P43 and including a preview of LuxLive in November.

As part of The Retail Exchange podcast series, we have introduced ‘The Interview’. Business journalist and broadcaster Declan Curry sat down with Dr Dorothy Maxwell, head of sustainability at House of Fraser, to discuss the retailer’s new sustainable store at Rushden Lakes in Northamptonshire. You can read highlights from the interview on P94.

Lyndsey Dennis Editor

Editor

Publisher

Lyndsey Dennis e. lyndsey@retailfocus.co t. +44 (0)7500 138 810

Lee Cullumbine e. lee@retailfocus.co t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

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diary

DIARY

MAPIC Palais des Festivals, Cannes, France 15-17 November 2017 MAPIC enables retail real estate companies to connect and grow their business, with dedicated themed areas highlighting the latest concepts in innovations, leisure operators and food & beverage in the retail real estate industry.

Visitors can stay up to date with the latest market trends, technologies and innovations at the dedicated themed areas. Discover promising international retail real estate projects and sites for development in 80 countries, and identify potential partners during several networking events with 8,500+ retail real estate professionals.

MAPICWorld www.mapic.com

LuxLive ExCel, London 15-16 November 2017 See the exciting future of lighting at LuxLive 2017. From Li-Fi to humancentric lighting and wireless controls, this year’s event is a festival of cutting-edge technology. Many exhibitors will be showcasing the latest lighting kit and energy saving controls, alongside a comprehensive programme of talks, debates and demonstrations.

VM & Display Awards The Bloomsbury Big Top, London 23 November 2017 The only event dedicated to celebrating excellence and innovation in the retail visual merchandising and display sector, the VM & Display Awards bring together the UK’s most influential creatives, retailers and suppliers in celebration of their achievements over the past year.

VMDisplayAwards

lux_live www.luxlive.co.uk

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www.vmanddisplayawards.com

Retail Design Collective New York City 4-8 December 2017 A collection of the world’s top visual suppliers will come together in New York City to showcase the latest and greatest visual products and trends in intricate showroom settings. Retailers, visual merchandisers, designers or anyone in the retail design industry will benefit from attending. shopassociation

www.shopassociation.org/ retail-design-collective/

show preview

show review

LDF17: HUMA The first thing we noticed about this year’s London Design Festival is that it felt different, more conscious and more human. The main improvement from previous editions is that this time design was presented and approached as a holistic discipline. Along with more traditional displays of objects, textile and materials, there was more space for platforms to present ideas and share insights.

The epicentre of this debate was with no doubt the pop-up event organised by Space10 within the spaces of Protein gallery in Shoreditch. The energetic team of the Copenhagen-based IKEA’s innovation agency facilitated a whole week of talks on future scenarios called Exploring Future Spaces. Guests like Franklin Till, Wikihouse, Propela (that included talks by Rachel Winfield and Liam Young) and Ma-tt-er presented the latest insights on materials, architecture, artifical intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR), manufacturing and farming. They also installed a pop-up salad lab that offered hydroponically grown greens with crunchy toppings developed with their chefs-in-residence.

Not too far from Protein, The Art of Attention by Seen Displays was also providing a moment to reflect on very relevant topics: how can design enhance attention and connection and avoid a state of cognitive overload? In this installation — powered by convivial studio and DOV — Seen Displays invited people to experience differently designed retail environments using a VR set. While visitors were navigating the virtual space, sensors were reading their body response, providing a realistic indication of their cognitive state.

The data from the sensors, filtered by an algorithm and projected live onto the wall, was basically a live body and mind response to the experience.

When it comes to the traditional venues, here are our highlights.

At the London Design Fair, we loved the material exploration by Envisions, a collective of creative professionals that collaborated with Frama to explore and emphasise the properties of their materials. Standard MDF boards had been milled, decorated, de-structured and assembled in the most creative ways. The top floor of the fair had a strong focus on materials and their narrative; from the powerful assemblage studies by Raw Materials to the rugs at Floor Stories. Even the press area — beautifully furnished and styled by Opendesk — revealed office furniture designed following principles of functional simplicity by this brave start-up pioneering the topics of distributed manufacturing and local economies.

At Somerset House, Design Frontiers was hosting innovative work across different design disciplines. We loved Pentagram’s designer Domenic Lippa presenting Facts & Figures, a book that in a time of ‘alternative facts’ challenges the idea of providing facts stripped from biased tones. Benjamin Hubert and Asad Hamir debuted with their brand Nolii, presenting a range of thoughtfully designed accessories that revolve around the accessory we can’t live without — our smart phone.

In Brompton, at 4 Cromwell Place, an exquisite new collection of furniture by Martino Gamper and sensitive accessories by Studio Ilse lived together with The London Salons, an installation to summarise a year of conversations between Ineke Hans and prominent designers in London. The exhibitions outlined the changing scenario of contemporary design presenting approaches by designers like Nina Tolstrup, Industrial Facility, Frank Kolkman,

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Max Lamb, Opendesk, Pearsonlloyd, Piet Hein Eek, Martino Gamper, Marjan van Aubel, Benjamin Hubert, Michael Marriott, Anne van der Zwaag, John Thackara, Ineke Hans, Richard Vijgen, James Shaw, Isokon and Micaella Pedros.

Undoubtedly beautiful was Peter Pilotto & Friends, where vibrant objects, paintings, sculpture and furniture provide the set for Peter Pilotto’s AW 2017 collection. Work by Francis Upritchard, Martino Gamper, Max Lamb, Bethan Laura Wood, Peter McDonald, Jochen Holz and Schmid McDonagh filled every corner of one of the historic townhouses at Cromwell Place.

It was great to have the chance to restore and recharge at the Brompton Cafè, a stylish yet friendly pop-up curated by Today Bread and M-L-XL where everything you see is design and is for sale; from the sweet and savoury snacks designed by Arabeschi di Latte and Jacopo Sarzi to the table accessories and the surrounding furniture. Our favourite was Studio Toogood Trade Show, where study objects by established designers, architects and artists (Tom Dixon, 6A Architects, Goshka Macuga…) were presented along with material experiments by younger designers like Fernando Laposse and Andere Monjo. Other great young included the UMPRUM show (Prague Academy of Arts, Architecture & Design), where students of the Ceramic & Porcelain Studio displayed their work where they experimented with materials, shape and form, while in keeping with the traditional Czech design style.

Fernando Laposse was also present in a group show in Peckham at Copeland Gallery, 13 Ways with Water. In this show — organised by Unit Lab, Dean Brown and Kirsi Enkovaara — 13 designers addressed water’s material properties focussing on movement, optical effects and auditory properties.

Overall, this year LDF felt more relaxed about its own nature, confident in presenting beautiful and stylish design along with materials and processes, exploration and in providing a platform for brave thinkers and doers to inspire an international audience.

www.seendisplays.com

Photo: Angus Mill

show review

show preview

MAN TOUCH Chiara Onida, senior 3D designer at Seen Displays, pounded the streets of London to soak up the delights of London Design Festival.

Top: Benjamin Hubert and Asad Hamir debuted their brand Nolii, presenting a range of thoughtfully designed accessories that revolve around smart phones. Far left: Round and Square Chair by Martino Gamper at Cromwell Place, Brompton Design District, Above left: Studioilse and Zanat Bench at Cromwell Place, Brompton Design District, Above: At The Art of Attention, Seen Displays invited people to experience differently designed retail environments using a VR set. Left: Alexander Mueller at London Design Fair,

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news

news

NEWS

The Lexicon Bracknell opens The Lexicon Bracknell, a £240 million new retail, leisure and dining development in the heart of Bracknell, is open for business.

One of the largest urban regeneration schemes, the town centre has been transformed by The Bracknell Regeneration Partnership, a 50:50 joint venture between Legal & General Capital and Schroder UK Real Estate Fund, working with Bracknell Forest Council. The scheme includes the first, new build, full line Fenwick department store to be opened in 14 years.

The 53,883 sq m project utilises a rich warm palette of materials including brick, timber, feature perforated aluminium, coloured glazing, gold/silver coloured copper cladding and green walls along with elegant street covers and canopies. A key concept for the scheme and public realm design has been ‘the greening of Bracknell’ to transform the character of the existing

town. BDP had already completed a Waitrose supermarket in 2011, which forms one of the anchors for the scheme.

The brief for BDP — lead consultant, architecture, lighting — was to create a vibrant modern retail, social and cultural hub for Bracknell while incorporating the values important to Bracknell Forest. It needed to be an inclusive and accessible town centre for everyone. Chapman Taylor, the delivery architect for the whole scheme, planned and designed one of the two key components of the plan, Charles Square – connecting the brand new ‘Northern Quarter’ to the existing Princess Square Centre.

‘Bracknell has a focus now that matches its influence and aspirations. For too long, the town centre underserved the local community but that has now changed with an exciting new scheme,’ says Simon Russian, head of development, Bracknell for Legal & General.

Microsoft to open first flagship store in UK on Regent Street Technology giant Microsoft has announced plans to open its first flagship Microsoft Store in the UK on Regent Street at Oxford Circus. This location will join flagship Microsoft Stores on Fifth Avenue in New York and Pitt Street Mall in Sydney.

James Cooksey, director of The Crown Estate’s Central London portfolio, which includes Regent Street, says: ‘Regent Street’s transformation into the world’s most popular shopping destination has been driven by attracting

flagships and firsts. We’re therefore delighted to be working in partnership with Microsoft, whose arrival will be another fantastic global brand for our millions of shoppers and visitors.’

Microsoft will join other UK and global flagships and firsts that opened on Regent Street, including Michael Kors, &Other Stories, Arket and Weekday. The letting forms part of The Crown Estate’s on-going £1 billion investment programme for Regent Street.

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news

Plans unveiled for Boxpark Wembley Following five years in the hub of Shoreditch and the successful launch of Boxpark Croydon in 2016, Boxpark has announced the launch of Boxpark Wembley, to open in late 2018 at Wembley Park. Whilst continuing to draw from its iconic shipping container roots, Boxpark Wembley will have a completely new and bespoke building design, making it an innovative and exciting landmark in the heart of Wembley Park.

Designed by BDP Manchester, the new development will comprise 29 units held by established and independent food operators. Boxpark Wembley will also offer a versatile programme of more than 200 community focused events throughout the year including live music, talks and workshops. These events will be supported by an expansive 2,000 capacity events space as well as an intimate and separate 300 capacity venue.

Planning approved for Meadowhall Leisure extention Meadowhall in Sheffield has received a resolution to grant planning consent for a £300 million extension that will transform the centre’s leisure offering. Councillors unanimously voted in favour of the 30,658 sq m development. The extension will integrate with the front of the existing centre featuring dining and entertaining options, a new cinema, café court, gym, open-air terrace and space for leisure, event and community use.

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Virgin Holidays unveils The Pool House boutique concession Virgin Holidays has unveiled its latest retail experience called The Pool House. Building on the success of the brand’s v-room flagship stores, Virgin Holidays has partnered with YourStudio to create this new concession boutique concept. Welcoming guests with a champagne bar, The Pool House offers a range of seating and lounge areas to ensure every part of the experience leaves customers feeling good.

‘We were briefed by Virgin Holidays to create a shop-in-shop boutique that elevated the experience beyond the expected, taking customers into an experiential world that would give them that “holiday ready” feeling,’ says Howard Sullivan, creative director and co-founder of YourStudio.

The layout is designed to promote Virgin Holidays’ commitment to service, encouraging customers to freely circulate and dwell in the space, and to take time to relax and refresh whilst browsing the range.

‘We have created various opportunities to chat with staff and get inspired about holiday whilst relaxing with your glass of bubbles. Perch bars and sharing tables provide different areas for your holiday consultation. A lenticular bronze mirror wall gives a sense of moment whilst reflecting Virgin Holidays’ Seize the Holiday logo,’ explains Sullivan.

The material palette takes its cues from modern hospitality and retail environments whilst giving the ultimate Virgin Holidays customer experience. ‘The neutral and light backdrop is intended to draw attention to the Virgin Holidays colleagues who are the key asset at every site. Whilst calm and clarity are provided through the white oak framework with bronze mirrors and white granite giving touches of luxury and quality,’ says Sullivan. This is the first of an exciting programme of future sites for Virgin Holidays.

The Leisure Hall will follow a £60 million refurbishment that is transforming the look and feel of the existing centre. This work will be completed during the Autumn, ahead of the peak Christmas trading period.

In anticipation of increasing customer interest in Meadowhall as a result of this comprehensive refurbishment, 40 retailers have invested more than £34 million in redesigning and refitting their existing stores to fit the new contemporary feel.

news

Angel Central to receive £8 million refurbishment CBRE Global Investors has confirmed an investment of nearly £8 million as part of a comprehensive refurbishment and phased development within Angel Central, Islington. Planning has been submitted for phase one of the Angel Central improvements,

which are set to commence in January 2018. Central to these plans is a new link bridge at the Liverpool Road entrance, spanning the width of the scheme to create a circular connected experience at first floor.

Three new restaurants with vibrant new alfresco space are being introduced to complement the existing leisure offer, anchored by Vue and the O2 Academy, and to create an exciting and diverse dining line up. Furthermore, detail has been paid to a new lighting scheme, cladding and upgraded flooring throughout the scheme, to enhance the overall environment and experience for visitors. The works are due to be completed in early 2019.

CBRE Global Investors has acquired 19 Upper Street for £4.5 million as part of future plans to create a new gateway into the Angel Central scheme, which is to include a rooftop restaurant.

Queensberry, the Development Managers for Angel Central, is appointed to deliver the vision, created by architects Haskoll, on behalf of CBRE Global Investors. The environmental works are part of a wider vision to re-position and revitalise Angel Central as one of the most exciting retail and leisure destinations in North London.

The Shop at Bluebird to open in Covent Garden Luxury concept store, The Shop at Bluebird has announced plans to open a store in Carriage Hall on Floral Street in Covent Garden. The store is scheduled to open in early 2018, with the 1,393 sq m space housing two dedicated retail floors and a large restaurant on the second floor.

This new signing is the latest addition to the street’s luxury tenants and will anchor the western end of the street, opposite two new restaurant concepts from Petersham Nurseries within Floral Court. The Shop at Bluebird will join the

Tom Dixon relocating to King’s Cross Renowned design brand Tom Dixon will move from its current home at Portobello Dock to King’s Cross in March 2018. The British label will relocate to The Coal Office to create a new flagship showroom, office, restaurant and cafe.

Originally dating back to 1851, the Coal Office building follows the curve of the Regent’s Canal, and is undergoing restoration as part of the redevelopment of King’s Cross. It is located within the Coal Drops Yard complex, a new shopping quarter set to open as a whole in Autumn 2018.

forthcoming UK flagship store for Kent & Curwen (the men’s British heritage brand part owned by David Beckham), agnès B, Diptyque and Paul Smith.

The recent refurbishment of the 19th century Grade II listed Carriage Hall represents the latest phase of the redevelopment of Floral Street. The conversion of Carriage Hall from office use to a unique and contemporary retail space includes a double height glass atrium, anchoring Floral Street.

ICHIBUNS takes up residence in Chinatown ICHIBUNS, the new Japanese-inspired dining concept promising luxury fast food, has opened its debut site at 22 Wardour Street in Chinatown London.

The 362 sq m, 130 cover restaurant spread over three floors is designed

by Noriyoshi Muramatsu of Tokyo’s Studio Glitt. Diners will be immersed in an eclectic Tokyo rock-and-roll interior inspired by 50s and 60s Japanese subcultures and the quintessential American diner. Walls are lined in a variety of Japanese ephemera including Manga comics, vintage newspapers and Japanese fishing flags.

In addition to table service throughout the restaurant, guests can order from a concrete takeaway counter, which has been moulded to represent Japanese granite, and on the plant-filled first floor enjoy views overlooking bustling Chinatown London. On the lower ground floor, a bar area features a wall lined with Japanese pachinko machines and another with Japanese craft beer cans.

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international news

international

NEWS Clergerie opens new Parisian boutique

Lavazza opens first flagship store in Milan Italian coffee specialist Lavazza has chosen Milan as the location for its first flagship store. The space has been designed by JHP Design to offer an immersive experience of the authentic world of Lavazza coffee.

Interior design plays a key role, epitomised by the eye-catching chandelier with its cascades of light formed by more than 600 pendants in the form of illuminated coffee beans.

The interiors stand out for the elegant and original designs by the gourmet illustrator and food journalist Gianluca

Biscalchin, whose subtle contemporary taste comes to life in special installations on the walls and in other bright green details that recall coffee plantations.

The flagship will welcome visitors and accompany them through a journey in discovering both traditional and new coffee drinking methods. The store is divided into four areas arranged around a focal elliptical central bar, with a style and colours that evoke the raw ingredient, providing a stage for all possible coffee experiences within a unique atmosphere.

Musée Yves Saint Laurent opens in Paris More than 15 years after the haute couture house closed, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris has opened its doors.

Located in Hôtel Particulier at 5 avenue Marceau where Yves Saint Laurent spent nearly 30 years designing his collections from 1974 to 2002, the building also serves as the headquarters of the Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent.

The museum is spread across 450 sq m and comprises an ever-changing rotation of retrospective displays and temporary thematic exhibitions that present the Fondation’s rich and unique collection. The inaugural display presents approximately 50 designs alongside accessories, sketches, photographs and videos.The former haute couture salons and the studio where the designer worked have been opened up to the public, offering visitors a glimpse of his creative process.

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris focuses on both the couturier’s creative genius and the process of designing a haute couture collection. Beyond its monographic ambitions,

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French shoe brand Clergerie has opened a new freestanding store in the heart of Paris. Designed by Vudafieri Saverio Partners, the store is located at 326 Rue Saint-Honoré and features contrasting colours, prominent architectural elements and an unusual mix of materials, creating an intimate space for customers to discover the latest collections and have a new shopping experience.

The opening will be followed later this year by a new store on Madison Avenue in New York. Clergerie already has a network of 15 freestanding boutiques in France, London, USA, Madris and Geneva and is present in major luxury retailers and concept stores worldwide.

the museum seeks to address the history of the 20th Century and the haute couture traditions that accompanies a way of life that no longer exists.

Set designer Nathalie Crinière and decorator Jacques Grange, both long-time collaborators of the Foundation, have designed the exhibition spaces to recreate the original atmosphere of the haute couture house. Architectural agency Jean-Michel Rousseau oversaw the renovation.

visual merchandising

INSPIRING WINDOW DISPLAYS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

Harvey Nichols Fenty Beauty, the makeup brand launched by singer/songwriter Rihanna, has taken over the windows at Harvey Nichols. The windows were launched in two phases – the teaser windows and the revealing of the campaign windows. ‘We didn’t want the windows to simply be a poster for the campaign — we wanted Harvey Nichols to tell the Fenty Beauty story and to convey the brand in an edgy but beautiful way,’ says Janet Wardley, head of visual display at Harvey Nichols.

The packaging features loose markings which inspired effects in both the teaser and the final windows. The VM team incorporated black marker pen effects, black graphics and free style markings on windows into the schemes. For the teaser scheme they used the black marker effects to spell out Fenty, working through the night over the course of the week, revealing the word ‘Fenty’ on day seven.

‘We built a Fenty human using the packaging, to illustrate the inclusiveness and diversity of the brand’s mission, and used the gaps to display the products. The Fenty figure has a lighting outline, providing the Fenty figure with a glow at night which is a nod to the highlighters, the Gloss Bomb and the Match Stix Shimmer Skinstick. We also created 3D scribbles, inspired by the loose black graphics on the packaging, to balance products on the twists and turns of the scribbles, and made a pink plaster effect wall for the background,’ says Wardley.

Nicholas Kirkwood British fashion designer Nicholas Kirkwood collaborated with Italian jewellery and luxury goods brand Bulgari to create the Serpenti Forever capsule collection, with a new window scheme in celebration. These new windows — in place for London Design Festival — featured a faceted frame made with a series of LED sticks hung purposefully to create a burst of light at the flagship. The window scheme was produced in partnership with Millington Associates.

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visual merchandising Oasis For Autumn/Winter 2017, Oasis has unveiled The Extraordinarium in its windows and throughout the store. The creative team at Oasis created a pop-up book and curiosity shop for the preview of its AW17 collection back in April, called The Extraordinarium.

They took inspiration from the pop-up to all stores across the UK for the AW17 window displays. Hello Flamingo’s in-house prop-making team cut fibreglass life-sized zebras in half. Using the front end, the team hand-painted the zebras’ legs pastel pink and added a monocle which had text from an old book applied to it. Internal split batons were added to the back of the zebras, enabling the in-house VM team to attach them to the wall, to give the impression that the zebras were floating. Hello Flamingo also adorned flamingo heads with rose tinted spectacles and black beaded necklaces.

Fenwick of Bond Street To coincide with London Fashion Week, Fenwick of Bond Street unveiled a Pop Art takeover of its windows.

Featured brands include Alto, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Haat, Nili Lotan, Protagonist, Veronique Branquinho and Margaret Howell. Working with talented artist Maxwell Turner, Push Collective created eight colourful illustrations visualising the well-known global brands. The window display was developed by Harlequin Design.

See more festive window schemes from 2016 at

www.retail-focus.co.uk/vm

ATE SPADE K NEW YORK Poppies have taken over the windows at Kate Spade New York. The ‘You’re Beautiful’ theme focuses on the juxtaposition of bright vivid poppies and iconic leopard print. The scheme features vinyl flooring, kiss cut poppies and a perspex backdrop that frames the giant 3D flowers created in the Millington Associates studios using one of the company’s favorite materials, PETG. This window scheme was rolled out across four London stores with a delivery to the Oslo store to complete the set.

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visual merchandising

Charles Tyrwhitt 3D deconstructed shirts are the centrepiece of Charles Tyrwhitt’s latest window scheme, promoting the brand’s ‘Quality Fit and Science’ campaign. Playing on the meticulous detail that goes into making all 63 components of a perfectly fitting, proper Jermyn Street shirt, Lucky Fox created 22 oversized deconstructed shirt installations to suspend in each of the brand’s 22 store windows.

Each ‘deconstructed’ shirt component was methodically handmade

by Lucky Fox’s own specialist makers. Flanking the shirt installations were large angled mirrored panels and oversized numerals printed in the brand’s iconic tie patterns to echo the messaging of the campaign, which were all produced by Lucky Fox.

Debenhams Debenhams unveiled its Let’s Talk Beauty campaign with a series of windows at its flagship store on London’s Oxford Street.

The scheme introduced Alesha Dixon as Debenhams’ new beauty spokeswoman.

Stylo created the 3D beauty essentials from clear acrylic, trimmed with pink LED neon.

Each element was suspended individually in the window by the company’s installation team, with bright pink flexes added as a finishing touch.

See more window schemes at

www.retail-focus.co.uk/vm

Lululemon Lululemon has unveiled a new window scheme to promote its Culture Clash collection. The New York street inspired print helped shape the creative of the window scheme. Ripped and overlaid artwork formed a backdrop to the collection, which also featured on plinths with neon details. The scheme continued in store, with mannequin plinths wrapped in the distinctive artwork to provide a central focal point. The scheme was designed by Lucky Fox and rolled out across Lululemon’s six London stores.

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FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT: SALES@ADELROOTSTEIN.CO.UK

pop

TOP pops of the

Company: MAD About Design

Client: Christian Dior

Display title: Maison Christian Dior

Sector: Fragrance

Location: Selfridges London

The brief: To brief for MAD About Design was to take Selfridges customers into a Maison Christian Dior fragrance discovery journey, creating a temporary site that replicates the St Honore Boutique in Paris, following the brand guidelines and respecting the restrictions from Selfridges.

The solution: Following clear and consistent branding, the MAD team produced a delicate and refined lifestyle wall showcasing Dior’s most famous quote with a central double sided giant screen immersing customers into a 24-hour journey on The Chateau de la Colle Noire in Grasse. The scheme comprised a metal and glass fragrance library, a bespoke fragrance bar offering the full range of products, a display candle bar showcasing brand new CD fine porcelain candles, and a gifting ceremony showcased by the till with a retractable engraving tray.

www.themadpeople.com

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5th & 6th February 2018 – Radisson Blu Hotel, London Stansted The Retail Shopfitting & Display Summit brings together all corners of the retail industry for two days of one-to-one business meetings and invaluable networking opportunities.

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Media and Industry Partners:ted

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Karl McKeever

Toying with transformation When America’s oldest toy store FAO Schwarz said goodbye to its spiritual home on New York’s Fifth Avenue in 2015, the decision by parent company Toys R Us sent shock waves through the industry.

Immortalised by Tom Hanks in cult 1980s’ film Big, the store itself may have been a wonderland of fun, but while kids went into the store and had a great time, their enjoyment did not translate into revenue. Now Toys R Us itself is in trouble.

As we head into the busiest toy-buying season of the year, the world’s largest toy retailer has filed for bankruptcy in the US and Canada, loaded with a staggering £3.7bn worth of debt. For Toys R Us, fun has come at a price. No one is safe. The future of its 110 UK stores are said to be secure, for now, while in North America it has filed for Chapter 11 protection. But in truth, there is no hiding place for its failings. As recent examples have gone to show, survival in the current volatility requires not just resilience but the vision to successfully land transformational change. The retailer’s statement that its stores will ‘continue to operate as usual’ is clearly a statement designed to provide comfort in turbulent times (for investors, store teams and shoppers), though in reality what it must do is anything but the ‘usual’ — and fast.

The way in which people shop for toys has changed, thanks in the main to the rise of Amazon. At the heart of the challenge for Toys R Us is its cultural belief in the ‘pile it high’ big box approach.

In the UK, this way of thinking went the way of the dinosaurs sometime ago for all but the likes of B&M and The Range, who are happy to pursue the ‘sell it cheap’ half of the famed phrase.

According to media reports, it is the rise in online shopping that has pushed Toys R Us to the brink. Not so.

The toy story success of The Entertainer goes to show that there is still profit to be made. Owned by self-proclaimed ‘charismatic evangelical’ Christian Gary Grant, the retailer defies many modern retail conventions. It does not open on Sundays, and has taken a conscious decision not to stock even the biggest selling ranges if they are deemed to have a connection to the occult. Not only does it illustrate that a retailer can be both principled and profitable but that meticulous attention to detail in-store matters. With a clear ‘thinking like a customer’ approach to its stores, small touches — Karl McKeever is founder and managing director of visual merchandising and brand delivery consultancy Visual Thinking.

Email Karl at karl@visualthinking.co.uk karlmckeever www.visualthinking.co.uk

such as steps by the till that enable children to pay for toys — help to make a big difference and create a ‘special’ shopping experience.

Toys R Us chief executive Dave Brandon has been quoted as saying that bankruptcy protection will provide greater financial flexibility to ‘continue to improve the customer experience in physical stores... in an increasingly challenging and rapidly changing retail marketplace.’

In truth, a large part of the woes of Toys R Us are about its vast physical scale, and the immense distribution centre-like stores.

While Toys R Us has experimented with smaller format shopping centre locations, the one thing that most Toys R Us stores do still have going for them is space. Should they have jumped on the back of the boom in child’s play centres and incorporated them into big box toy stores: surely the missed opportunity of the last decade within the sector? The sight of a child speeding down the aisle in a go-kart may bring health & safety professionals out in hives, but the sheer joy that it brings to their face is priceless.

Anyone who has visited a Hamleys or LEGO store knows thatkids’ love of play and toys is still strong. Yet with physical stores focusing on delivering satisfying experiences as a means of differentiation, Toys R Us closed two of New York’s most ‘experiential’ stores — its flagship in Times Square closed in 2015.

Clearly design has a huge role to play — Imaginarium’s adult and child-sized dual store entrance and LEGO’s use of augmented reality to bring the contents of its box products to life in-store, both great examples. For me though, this is not how you make the real magic happen instore.

Despite the aircraft hangar-sized rooms filled with enough toys for a thousand Christmases, and putting retail design considerations aside for a moment, most Toys R Us stores are soulless places. Hardworking and diligent they may be, but few would describe Toys R Us stores staff as being filled with childlike enthusiasm, or demonstrating a love for the brand that is engaging and infectious — in contrast to, say, Hamleys.

By all means invest in new store concepts. They remain vitally important for testing new ideas, motivating employees, ruffling competitor feathers, and wooing would-be investors. Delivering truly sustainable transformation, however, will demand not only investment in the physical store environment, but also investment in those ultimately responsible for making change happen. I fear though that this will all come too late to ‘save’ Toys R Us in its current form. Shrinking this goliath business to a more realistic and useful scale that reflects shoppers needs of today, whilst painful, could in truth be the antidote it needs.

To take stores from the everyday to the exceptional requires more than simply attitude and efficiency. It requires a love-whatyou-do, do-it better mentality. It requires store teams who are not just fully engaged with objectives, but have a genuine desire to do more than just process transactions – algorithms and websites already make that look like child’s play. With the right approach, Toys R Us could emerge more colourfully and compactly packaged, like the products it sells.

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project focus

SWEATY BETTY CARNABY STREET, LONDON Design: In-house Opening date: September 2017 Store size: 204 sq m

Fitness brand Sweaty Betty has opened its first European flagship at No. 1 Carnaby Street in London. The prominent 204 sq m store is located at the south entrance to Carnaby Street and is the result of the brand upscaling from its existing store on Beak Street where it has been a resident since 2002.

‘Nineteen years and over 50 shops later, I’m so excited to introduce our flagship: No. 1 Carnaby. We spent years dreaming up this concept, I have even handpicked all of the partners to ensure they had a similar value and ethos to the Sweaty Betty brand, to live a balanced life that goes beyond fitness,’ says Tamara Hill-Norton, founder of Sweaty Betty.

The shop is arranged over ground and basement floors, allowing the brand to expand and offer its full clothing, accessories and equipment collections, as well as housing a studio space for exclusive wellness events, giving a wider customer experience.

‘Our brief was to design a location filled with fashion, food, fitness and beauty, where you could come with your friends, do a workout, grab a smoothie bowl, shop and get pampered,’ says a spokesperson on the Sweaty Betty in-house store design team. ‘Design wise we wanted to encourage our customer to spend time in store, bringing the fun side of our brand alive with unexpected touches including neon and graphic illustrations. My favourite example of this is the lockers in The Studio; from the outside they are really minimal and chic, then once you open the door you’ll find a fun feminist quote hand-illustrated

by Lo Parkin.’

The design team wanted to stay true to the brand using its signature grey tones and fluoro pops that it has become known for. The space is really industrial, so to take No.1 Carnaby to the next level the designers used bright neon installations throughout the space inspired by the lights of Soho.

In the shop area itself, the shopping experience has been simplified using blackened steel fixtures and touches of marble and concrete.

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‘In retail spaces designers now have to think, is this Instagrammable?’

project focus

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project focus

As the main concept of the space was to create an area where women would come and want to hang out, homely touches were added, including hanging plants, oak furniture and lots of cushions and rugs.

‘In retail spaces designers now have to think, is this Instagrammable? At Sweaty Betty we love motivational quotes, so you will notice these throughout the store; on a mirror or a big neon, as they are a huge part of our brand. To ensure these stayed true to our look, we used stencilling for a premium, long-lasting finish,’ continues the spokesperson.

‘Our visual merchandising in store has really elevated our retail space; we love telling a story of the collection with

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‘We love motivational quotes, so you will notice these throughout the store.’

a selection of beautiful imagery, typography and at the moment a vase filled with eucalyptus all displayed on a shelf like a collage. You’ll also see this reflected in the windows; to launch our new Power Leggings we’ve got three girls acting out the store through really fun props.’

The café area has a huge communal table and hanging chairs to encourage customers to sit and enjoy the space.

‘We’ve tried to think of everything, from organic Bamford products in the showers to specially designed cups in Farm Girl to ensure the ultimate customer experience.’

Sweaty Betty joins other recent additions including Urban Decay, G.H. Bass and Estee Edit who have all chosen Carnaby for their first global or UK flagship store.

project focus

SMEG

ST JAMES’S MARKET, LONDON Design: Deepdesign Opening date: September 2017 Store size: 594 sq m

Italian luxury kitchen appliance manufacturer Smeg has launched its state of the art flagship store on Regent Street in London at St James’s Market.

Housed in beautifully restored architectural surroundings, the store showcases Smeg’s extensive collection of large and small appliances. The experiential store will target business people located in the surrounding developments, foodies visiting neighbouring restaurants and eateries, along with boutique shoppers and tourists to the capital. The store’s fit-out was designed by Deepdesign as a contemporary, modern and spacious interior to inspire and share Smeg’s design values.

Architects Matteo Bazzicalupo and Raffaella Mangiarotti at Deepdesign — the designers of Smeg’s small appliances — have curated the overall design of the new international flagship store along with Edoardo Radice. ‘This project was at the same time complex and interesting as the briefing phase developed. The brief has been defined thanks to an in-depth comparison with Smeg and the Crown

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Estate,’ say Bazzicalupo and Mangiarotti.

They say the aim was ‘to create a store of excellence in the heart of St James’s that could help to enhance the context thanks to its elegance and style, innovation and the distinctive character of Italian design, the foundation values for the Smeg brand.’

The store front boasts the largest single pane glass windows in London. Measuring 594 sq m and split over three floors, the store also boasts 7m high ceilings, making for an impressive open plan space to display Smeg’s 300+ products.

The ground floor focuses on the brand’s range of colourful small and large domestic appliances and accessories, as well as the all-important family produce from Montecoppe, Smeg’s very own Italian farm, including Parmesan cheeses, balsamic vinegars and wines. To enhance the Italian experience, the store also serves customers with a customary espresso or coffee from its machines.

The ground floor also includes extensive displays from Smeg’s collaboration with Dolce&Gabbana. There is also a living wall

project focus

‘All three floor levels are covered with the same beautiful industrial wood flooring in solid whitewashed oak.’ 31

project focus

on this floor, featuring lush greens with red, white and silver accents, reflecting the brand’s love of natural materials and the environment.

The mezzanine level has been designed with a library feel in mind, featuring a dedicated design lounge and meeting space. Looking out, iconic and limited edition FAB fridges are visible to passers by from street level.

Downstairs in the basement sits a purpose-built theatre for cooking demonstrations. The theatre comprises tiered seating and HD AV equipment filming and screening live action to ensure audience members can get involved.

Smeg has maintained its keen eye for detail through the choice of materials used.

The finishes and furniture are made from oak and roman travertine stone, and semi-transparent walls constructed from slats in oak or glass. Products are elegantly displayed on a number of large, minimalist modules finished in travertine stone, glass, Carrara marble and wood, alongside architectural and LED lighting for the finishing touches.

‘All three floor levels are covered with the same beautiful industrial wood flooring in solid whitewashed oak. The way in which it has been laid gives the perception of infinite wooden strips. Features such as glass surfaces, large modular display furniture, counter tops in marble,

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open-pore travertine and wooden slats that elegantly cascade down the staircase all resemble the architecture of Mies,’ explain the architectural duo.

‘The launch of Smeg’s flagship London store — a project over four years in the making — comes at a momentous time for Smeg UK. With continued growth across the company, we’re excited the store will enhance the brand’s development and engagement with consumers in London and beyond – a platform for regular events, exciting launches and new displays,’ says Mike Giddings, managing director of Smeg UK.

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project focus

JIGSAW

THREE PANCRAS SQUARE, KINGS CROSS Design: Checkland Kindleysides Opening date: August 2017 Store size: 232 sq m

British fashion retailer Jigsaw has opened its latest store at Three Pancras Square in London’s King’s Cross with a theatre-inspired design. The brand’s 87th store, the 232 sq m space has been created by global design agency Checkland Kindleysides and is the third collaboration between the design studio and retailer, following its debut work in Guildford and Westfield London.

The location was chosen for its creative buzz, fashion conscious students and workers who call it home. The brand uses local references for each of its stores, with an independent approach to each store design. Sitting at the intersection of travel and creativity, the King’s Cross interior intertwines a sense of fluidity and discovery to identify with the core consumer.

‘The brief required a specifically designed store for a different kind of consumer — a more youthful, fashion forward audience characterised by the King’s Cross development and the new wave of creative businesses who call the area home,’ says Joe Evans, creative director at Checkland Kindleysides.

‘The materials are simple, pared back and neutral, with premium detailing and finishes.

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‘The store was envisaged as a brand space that could be utilised for social events and launches. This was integral to the brief and provided inspiration for the theatrical aesthetic and functionality.’

Peter Ruis, chief executive of Jigsaw, says: ‘King’s Cross is one of the most exciting developments I have witnessed in London. A wonderful hybrid of creativity, commerce, travel and education, fused into the ultimate residential location and Jigsaw had to be a part of it,’ Checkland Kindleysides has used the lofty, elegant architecture to create a contemporary space with an ambience influenced by art studios and backstage theatre. ‘King’s Cross is a melting pot of cultures and we sought to create a bold, vibrant colour palette mixed with timeless architectural colours that celebrate this energy,’ says Evans. ‘The materials are simple, pared back and neutral, with premium detailing and finishes to compliment products, colours and layers.’

Making benefit of the existing textiles, blockwork and brick are unified in pale blue and used as a backdrop, over which large theatre-style stage flats are hung to enhance the sense of a creative and moving space.

Furniture is mobile to enable the space to change for events, and acts as focal points/landmarks creating backdrops to collections. This adds to the improvised, dynamic and theatrical feel. A scaffolding tower in pink acts as a creative merchandising device and product stage — a destination specifically for denim.

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During the London Fashion Week event this was adapted to provide a stage for mannequins and a more fashion forward feel. A repurposed ladder platform is used to merchandise men’s apparel, accessories and a freestanding mirror. Practically, this is also used for moving high level graphic drops and product rails. Flight cases made in premium, handcrafted plywood and leather come together to create flexible product wardrobes. From a VM perspective they can adapt from shelves to hanging rails and accessory trays. The outside faces are used to highlight key product edits.

The ceiling grid is a theatre gantry that reinforces the backstage ambience. ‘Practically, this is a device that enables us to use the entirety of the space with huge flexibility, including suspended merchandising, drop-down graphic voiles and lighting chandeliers,’ says Evans.

The fitting room experience wraps consumers in tall theatrical curtains made of luxurious velvet. Inside they are simple and beautifully lit. The graphics and colour block canvases add contemporary pastel colour but feel transient like stage flats in an artist’s studio. Feature lighting includes sculptural LED-strip chandelier fittings that pulse and change colour in time with the music, hanging above solid stained timber flooring with a bold geometric design. Together, these features create an experience orchestrated with all the glamour and energy of a theatre or fashion show.

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COMMUNICATION IS KEY The importance of good relationships and transparent communication between retailer, shopfitter and designer from the offset.

The 21st NAS Design Partnership Awards in September celebrated the latest schemes that clearly display collaboration between interior designers and shopfitters, from inception to completion.

Berry Bros. & Rudd, designed by Mowat and Company and fit out by The Cumberland Group, won The Retail Award. The new Berry Bros. & Rudd space on the corner of St James’s and Pall Mall enables everyone access to 1,300 wines and spirits from London’s oldest wine and spirits merchant. The store is designed to evolve the traditions and culture of the special relationship between Berry Bros. & Rudd and their customers, in an open and welcoming interior.

As with most things in life, clear communication is vital, especially from the offset. ‘A collaborative approach in working with a shopfitter is very important, a common goal of trying to achieve the best results in the shortest onsite time for a cost effective budget is essential,’ says John Evans, director at design agency, je+1. ‘Working closely with a shopfitter can help in achieving this; it also helps if this is a collaborative process that has been built of a period of time as there becomes a synergy between designer and shopfitter that makes working together more effective.’ je+1 and brand agency True Story colaborated on a new concept for longstanding client DFS with a complete refit of an existing store in Edinburgh. The project involved the amalgamation

Main: Berry Bros. & Rudd won The Retail Award at the NAS Design Partnership Awards in September.

Text: Lyndsey Dennis

of several of the company’s brands into one store by totally redesigning an existing store and pre-planning the space to include DFS, Sofa Workshop, Dwell plus DFS beds, dining and clearance spaces. ‘When you are attempting to redesign so much in a short time, a close working relationship with a contractor really helps. We have worked with Foers Contracts on DFS stores for over 30 years so we understand one another and the expectations of the client very well,’ says Evans.

‘From picking and packing in a warehouse, to transportation and design, it’s important to keep a watchful eye on every element of the process,’ says Colin Chapman, managing director of CJ Retail Solutions. ‘With such detailed involvement, collaboration is crucial in order to ensure that project messages and key themes have been accurately communicated from each avenue of involvement.’

During a recent digital-based project working with Boots, communication became indispensible for CJ Retail Solutions.

‘With so many stakeholders involved at once — technology specialists, designers, digital experts, electricians — we had to ensure transparent communication throughout each job in order to produce the POS systems required to display Boots’ highly sought after Christmas range,’ says Chapman.

He says sequence planning is critical to ensure a successful project. ‘The process of liaising with each stakeholder is highly complex, but vital in order to ensure a deadline is met. We must bear in mind each method of production, time constraints and any other restrictions which we may face along the way, implementing any preventative measures necessary,’ continues Chapman.

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design & shopfitting ‘We had to understand that each stakeholder worked differently - from dates of implementation, to use and preparation of materials. Once each procedure had been outlined, change overs between electricians and digital specialists, for example, needed to be flawless. Grasping the method of “knowing what comes before” became our design discipline for this project.’

Clugston Construction and MDG Architects collaborated closely on Duckworth Motor Group’s new £7m Jaguar Land Rover facility in Boston, Lincolnshire. The 4,645 sq m facility captures the new Jaguar Land Rover ‘ARCH’ concept, which not only brings together the two luxury marques under one roof, but also blends the retail and vehicle service areas into a coordinated space. This reinforces the brand’s attention to detail and quality, as well as enhancing the total customer experience.

‘Premium materials were installed throughout to maintain the modern, luxurious appearance, with distinctive warm grey metallic rain screen cladding and planar curtain walling incorporating specialist extra clear glazing,’ says Paul Gouland, marketing director at Clugston Construction,. ‘Internally, both the showroom — which provides space for 18 vehicles and technical service areas, as well as state-of-the-art service bays for 13 vehicles — were tiled throughout to an exacting standard in line with Duckworth’s own and the Jaguar Land Rover specification. Environmental considerations were fundamental to the new design.’

Due to the scale and complexity of the redevelopment of Bracknell Town Centre, coupled with a short time frame in which to deliver, it was crucial to appoint an experienced specialist contractor with an established supply chain. Prater began work on site in 2015 and the project team’s collaborative working ethos played a fundamental role in the success of the roofing and façade packages. Mace appointed Prater to deliver the external envelope for all eight buildings at Bracknell Town Centre — each one its own individual project.

With each of the buildings featuring individually bespoke façade and roofing finishes, a collaborative approach was

required. From the outset, Prater worked closely with Mace and key supply chain partners such as Bailey for the Fenwick panel system, BTS for rainscreen panels and RW Simon for louvres.

One of the key challenges for the project was the façade design on the Fenwick building. Working closely with Bailey, the team developed a perforated aluminium panel system featuring the unusual effect of floating panels — the visual result that the end client was eager to see.

‘We need to know we can rely on our partners; have good relationships with them and that they can deliver when required,’ says Carl Wright, project director at Mace. Aaron Hill, senior project manager at Prater, adds: ‘We needed full co-operation and collaboration from our supply chain to develop and deliver this project on time and to the highest possible standard. By engaging our partners at the design stage, on-site operations have been smoother. We are incredibly proud of our work, and as far as we are concerned the successful outcome would not have been possible without our supply chain partners.’ Words echoed by all projects.

Top: One of the key challenges for the Lexicon Town Centre project was the façade design on the Fenwick building.

Above left: je+1 collaborated with brand agency True Story on the refit of DFS in Edinburgh.

Above: Boots’ Christmas POS by CJ Retail Solutions.

Left: Duckworth Motor Group’s new £7m Jaguar Land Rover facility in Boston, Lincolnshire by Clugston Construction and MDG Architects.

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The Fitting Room of the future – new Ansorg concept boosts turnover in fashion stores The fitting room, once intended as the strong point of bricks-and-mortar retail outlets, has now become a real hindrance to sales. Over 40 per cent of consumers who show their clear interest in buying by visiting the fashion stores are leaving them again without making a purchase simply because they found the fitting room unappealing. This was revealed by a representative survey conducted on Ansorg’s behalf.

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increase in turnover. 85 per cent stated that good lighting was important in a cubicle.

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The shape of things to come Lighting refurbs give new lease of life to retail

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Welcome Lighting is a vital aspect

of real world retail design and a key element of any refurbishment regardless of scale, from refreshing the displays in one small shop to regenerating an entire town with a new retail quarter, writes Francis Pearce in his article this month, Attracting customers, keeping them on-site and ensuring that they want to come back are important as understanding their wants, needs and habits. Turn to P55-56 to find out more.

In Hampshire, the street lights tell the local authority when to salt the roads in winter. In Helsinki, they’ll find you a parking space. In Atlanta Airport, lights can track wheelchairs and other equipment, while in Singapore, the lighting guides customers to bargains in a shopping mall. Lighting is changing. Thanks to digital technology, it’s moving beyond illumination and creating exciting possibilities that were undreamt of a few years ago.

Lighting can now make spaces more human. It can engage with customers, help understand people and their needs, and deliver unparalleled comfort and convenience. You can find out about the future of lighting yourself at LuxLive 2017 on 15-16 November at ExCel London (P49-51).

Speaking of the future, Darren Riva, sales director at Zumtobel Group Services, explores lighting and it’s role in the connected store of the future on P52. See you at LuxLive!

Lyndsey Dennis Editor

47

News

49

55 Lighting refurbs

LuxLive

47

News The latest news from the lighting industry.

LIGHTING focus www.retail-focus.co.uk

49

The digital future of lighting Lowdown on LuxLive 2017 in November.

Editor Lyndsey Dennis e. lyndsey@retailfocus.co t. +44 (0)7500 138 810

55

Production & Web Terry Clark e. terry@retailfocus.co t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

Account Manager Adam Potter e. adam@retailfocus.co t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

The shape of things to come Refurbishments offer the opportunity to let lighting shine by enticing customers into the store or shopping mall, writes Francis Pearce.

47 Cover image: Sunset Walk at Centre:MK in Milton Keynes — lighting design by Lighting Design International

Publisher Lee Cullumbine e. lee@retailfocus.co t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

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news

Lighting NEWS Nulty opens Beirut office International architectural lighting design practice Nulty has anounced the launch of its Beirut office, its third after Dubai (established in 2016) and the London HQ (opened in 2011).

The last 18 months have seen the Dubai studio expand quickly with a growing design team headed up by director, Mark Vowles. The decision to launch into Lebanon comes after a busy and successful year for the team within the Middle East. The new Beirut office will assist with the expanding needs and demands of projects within the region and enable the practice to open up further to North Africa and beyond.

Sainsbury’s to add IoT capabilities to its lighting

Lee Broom presents ON REFLECTION As part of this year’s London Design Festival last month, British designer Lee Broom unveiled ON REFLECTION, a surreal, modernist tableau in his Shoreditch flagship store. Celebrating his 10th London Design Festival, the exhibition showcased the launch of a capsule collection of limited edition designs from the past decade reintepreted in black, alongside new lighting which launches in November.

Presented in a tableau which took its influence from Art Deco and Bauhaus, visitors became part of a reflected scene where nothing was quite what it first appeared to be. A unique space of two halves, on reflection the true nature of the tableau was revealed with a surprising and surreal twist.

Sainsbury’s has announced plans to add Internet of Things (IoT) capabilities to its lighting. The ambitious plan will see all of its stores become 100 per cent LED by 2020.

Sainsbury’s will be the first grocery retailer in the UK to power all its supermarkets entirely by LED lighting.

Approximately 250,000 luminaires will be retrofitted in 250 superstores over the next three years in addition to those already installed during the company’s ongoing roll-out.

The new fixtures are part of a deal with Current, GE’s low-energy technology supplier, which will see energy used by the lighting reduced by 58 per cent. The lighting could also be used as a platform for sensors and beacons, allowing interaction with customers.

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LUXLIVE: THE DIGITAL FUTURE OF LIGHTING Text: Lyndsey Dennis

Head to LuxLive in November to find out more about the digital future of lighting.

Lighting is changing. Thanks to digital technology, it’s moving beyond illumination and creating exciting possibilities that were undreamt of a few years ago. Lighting can now make spaces more human. It can engage with customers, help understand people and their needs, and deliver unparalleled comfort and convenience.

See the exciting future of lighting for yourself at LuxLive 2017 on 15-16 November at ExCel London. And it’s not just about technology.

Advances in knowledge about how light affects people are now allowing the creation of human-centric spaces where wellbeing, comfort and productivity are paramount. From Li-Fi to human-centric lighting and wireless controls, this year’s LuxLive is a festival of cutting-edge technology.

Many exhibitors will be showcasing the latest lighting kit and energy saving controls. Companies taking part include Philips, Osram, iGuzzini, Samsung, ABB, Holophane, CU Phosco Lighting, Thorlux Lighting, Astro, Aurora and more.

Register for your free badge at www.luxlive.co.uk

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show preview

LUXLIVE: LIGHTING REVOLUTION

Key retail lighting seminars Wednesday 15 November

1pm

Case study: BMW flagship, Munich (IoT Arena) Connected lighting at BMW’s showroom is giving customers an immersive, personalised experience in testing, selecting and purchasing a new model.

Learn more about the technology that is making it happen.

Thursday 16 November

1.30pm

Retail Power Panel: How do YOU make connected lighting happen? (IoT Arena) An expert panel of retailers, manufacturers and designers looks at the challenges facing the implementation of connected lighting as the platform for digital services and how they might be overcome.

1.30pm

Case study: Retail (IoT Arena) Trials of internet-connected lighting in stores is producing extremely encouraging results, with increased basket sizes and dwell times. In this special retail case study, expert speakers looks at these early learnings.

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show preview

What’s on at LuxLive Gooee IoT Arena At the heart of the show is this centrepiece stage and technology zone where the digital future of lighting comes to life. Demonstrations, presentations, discussions and break-out talks will focus on connected lighting and the exciting possibilities it’s opening up to engage occupants and control our world.

LightSpace The lightspace arena — in association with Amerlux — will focus on the quality and design of light. It will feature two days of curated content on architectural lighting, including debates and presentations from inspirational designers and architects.

Keynote speakers for 2017 are Mark Major, principal of Speirs + Major, and Mark Middleton, managing partner of Grimshaw.

Escape Zone LuxLive has become the go-to place for all things related to emergency lighting.

There’s a dedicated stream of tutorials and presentations, and you’ll also be able to compare all the latest kit from the biggest players such as Dextra, Hochiki, Thorlux.

Li-Fi Experience Wireless connectivity delivered by the visible light from LED lighting — known simply as Li-Fi — is creating a lot of excitement in technology circles. No wonder. This breakthrough development could transform lighting into a backbone for information and free up congestion on traditional Wi-Fi networks. Visit the area to get up to speed with the latest Li-Fi news.

Smart Spaces Conference Powered by Holophane, the Smart Spaces Conference focuses on connected outdoor lighting. Here you’ll see sophisticated lighting systems with advanced features such as environment monitoring, asset management, parking information, lamp and ballast failure reporting and integration with third party systems and software.

LIA Lighting Academy This special educational programme will see experienced tutors from the Lighting Industry Association take you through the fundamentals of light, light sources, standards and legislation, and lighting design. They’ll give you the knowledge you need to make better informed decisions about lighting in your buildings, and you’ll get CPD points and a certificate of completion. The course runs from 9.30am - 1pm in a dedicated theatre at the show, so you can spend the morning learning about lighting and the afternoon seeing some of the exciting innovations in design and technology. It is essential that you reserve your place at LIA Lighting Academy and in doing so you will automatically be registered to visit LuxLive.

Sign up at www.lialightingacademy.com

Lux Awards Now in its seventh year, the Lux Awards has established itself as the best recognised awards scheme in the business. The programme honours not just the people in the industry, but the customers who are doing great things with lighting. The Lux Awards are designed to celebrate and reward both creativity and sustainability, recognising clients and end-users that have used lighting in exceptional ways to improve their lit environment, reduce energy and achieve business objectives. The awards ceremony takes place on Thursday 16 November at The Intercontinental London – The O2.

LIA Live On the exhibition floor is LIA Live, where the organisation is showcasing its many services for members. The LIA Labs will be there, demonstrating its testing procedures and its precision equipment, Lumicom is showing off its mobile recycling facility and the training division is discussing the unprecedented availability of qualifications.

When and where ExCel London Wednesday 15 November 2017

9am - 9pm Thursday 16 November 2017

9am – 5pm www.luxlive.co.uk lux_live

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opinion

Bright future

Retailers are looking to digitally transform their in-store lighting systems, first and foremost in order to save energy and reduce maintenance costs. However, digital transformation of the lighting system also provides a ready-made network on which to mount sensor-based and data-based technologies that are fundamental to creating the smart store of the future — where the retail environment ‘talks back’ to retail managers, where many tasks can be automated and where the customer experience can be enhanced and personalised.

At the same time, retail margins remain under heavy pressure. Precious working capital in the retail sector needs to be applied to agile, high return-oninvestment, tactical initiatives (promotions, acquisitions, pop-ups, etc) and not tied up in depreciating technology assets.

Retailers are therefore increasingly upgrading to digital (LED) lighting platforms through ‘as-a-Service’ financing arrangements, rather than investing capital in those systems. These arrangements — nowadays termed Lighting-as-a-Service (LaaS) — use future energy cost savings to pay for the technology upgrade and still deliver, in many cases, net cost savings.

Lighting as the smart store platform As technology continually drives shifts in customer behaviour, the question for retailers is how they continue to provide a seamless shopping experience across multiple channels. For a growing number of companies, the answer is to turn to external providers for the technology and expertise required in an increasingly digital market place. This applies to facilities

52

Darren Riva, sales director at Zumtobel Group Services, explores lighting and it’s role in the connected store of the future.

management, IT, distribution and other functions of a retail business.

Now, with the emergence of LaaS, such thinking is also being applied to lighting.

Since LED lighting is a semiconductor technology, it can act as a platform to deliver a wide variety of intelligent applications and improved functionality for retailers. Adopting an LaaS strategy means that retail professionals can concentrate on applying their retail expertise, leaving lighting technology experts to apply their specialist knowledge to develop smart, sensor-based, in-store solutions based on the lighting network infrastructure.

So what do such solutions look like?

Dynamic design through digital lighting can influence the customer experience at low cost. Lighting may be triggered by factors such as the weather, for example, making stores more inviting.

Lighting can also be the catalyst for invaluable in-store intelligence.

Sensors in the lighting can capture in-store footfall, enabling the retailer to generate behaviour heat-maps and to re-evaluate store layout. Shelf sensors can automatically trigger re-stocking as a product is sold.

Lighting can also be used as the platform to enhance the customer experience. Combining existing customer data with in-store sensors can help to guide customers to products or promotions based on desires and habits. Triggers can flash-up on mobile phones as the customer nears a particular item. Digital lighting systems allow such capabilities to be easily and inexpensively introduced.

DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION Certainly, the cost savings and energy efficiencies delivered by today’s LED lighting systems will interest any business.

Our recent report identified that the digital transformation of lighting systems could save UK retail £6.3 billion through to 2025.

But it is the idea of using the existing lighting infrastructure as the framework, network and transport system for sensor-based digital smart stores that elevates digital transformation to a higher strategic plane. No other physical in-store network permeates the retail environment like the lighting infrastructure, meaning digital expansion and re-purposing should deliver the highest return on investment.

The combination of smart financing and technology is accelerating investment in the smart store. LaaS arrangements, which are already in place with a significant minority of retailers, allow future cost savings to be harnessed to pay for today’s digital technology upgrade. Such arrangements are becoming so popular precisely because they enable investment without capital commitment, moving the business model from buying technology, to paying for access to that technology.

As technological advances continue apace, more and more businesses will recognise the advantages of the ‘as a service’ approach to lighting. Doing nothing is not an option, unless an organisation wants to deliberately set itself at a disadvantage. A tailored, optimised lighting system can have a significant impact — not only on an organisation’s bottom line but also on employee performance, business intelligence and customer experience. It’s time to switch.

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Photo: Takumi Ota

lighting refurbs

The shape of things to come Lighting’s job in retail is complex. Refurbishments offer the opportunity to let it shine by enticing customers into the store or shopping mall, writes Francis Pearce.

Lighting is a vital aspect of real world retail design and a key element of any refurbishment regardless of scale, from refreshing the displays in one small shop to regenerating an entire town with a new retail quarter. Attracting customers, keeping them on-site and ensuring that they want to come back are important as understanding their wants, needs and habits.

Lighting affects all of these on the physical and psychological level, by highlighting goods and increasing their appeal but also by enabling customers to find what they want and to shop at a pace that suits them. In addition, brands need refreshing, interior designs and displays become tired or clichéd and layouts may require altering to improve the flow of customer traffic or to accommodate new product lines or concessions.

The need to save energy and expense

by using more efficient light sources was once a lesson that lighting designers and facilities managers had to drive home. With the dominance of LED lighting, in particular, and the outlawing of some other types of lamp, these are now a given; the focus has shifted to issues such as consistency and colour rendering, which enables shoppers to judge the real appearance of goods from fabrics to fruit.

Lighting consultant Mary RushtonBeales of Lighting Design House has tackled refurbishments of every size and says that large or small they offer a second chance ‘to change the lighting to what it should have been in the first place.’ She

Main image: Inverse Lighting’s scheme draws customers in at Siam Discovery in Bangkok.

adds that they are also an opportunity ‘to install or prepare to use new technology.’

With retailers looking for ways to make the shopper’s experience more enjoyable and worth a return visit, lighting increasingly has to encompass forms of video or screen-based ‘retailtainment’ that, introduced willy-nilly, can unbalance the lighting mix in a store, adding glare or distracting shoppers unhelpfully. If demand is changing, there is also supply-side pressure on retailers; lighting has become so reliable and efficient that the lighting industry has had to find new things for lighting to do, for example, monitoring purchasing habits and steering shoppers towards ‘personalised’ offers. But before the lighting can do that, it has to help draw customers into the space, in the first place.

The London and Hong Kong-based consultancy Inverse Lighting provided one

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lighting refurbs

Right: Gold-finished geometric ‘kites’, up-lit with spotlights, designed by Lighting Design International at Sunset Walk, Centre:MK

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Their six-sidedness highlights an aspect of lighting that is rarely commented on: the shape of fittings — usually oblong and flat or approximately spherical and pendant, if not a line of spotlights.

Their hexagonal design means they are tessellated to give even, shadow-free light.

But they also fit with the space. Mark Ridler, head of lighting at BDP, has remarked that one of the reasons that circular or doughnut-shaped fittings are so often used in refurbishments is that they look right in awkward shaped or linking spaces.

In addition to ensuring the right quality of lighting, professional lighting designers aim to respond to the architecture and the fabric of the site, a task made all the more complex with buildings of architectural or historic importance.

Situated next to the Rialto Bridge, the four-storey, 16th-century Fondaco dei Tedeschi in Venice, is one of the city’s most historically significant and largest buildings.

In 2009, the Benetton family commissioned OMA to restore it and transform it the 9,000 sq m building into a department store. It was subsequently leased by Hong Kong-based, high-end retailer DFS, which brought in Jamie Fobert Architects to design the interior spaces. As Phil Caton, founder of PJC Light Studio, remarks, ‘the combination of two architects, the local preservation authority and effectively two clients made this a very politically sensitive

project to work on with many barriers to cross and approvals to gain.’

The brief was to seamlessly integrate the lighting into the architectural language to provide the correct balance and quality of light for a large, prestigious retail environment, plus the flexibility to respond to any changes in layout required by individual brands. Visual appearance of the lighting was to be discreet with a high quality of detailing, integrated concealed light details into the furniture design to enhance the visual interest of each space and bring maximum focus to the product displays. The eventual design included a pendant lighting solution spanning the whole third-floor Beauty Hall; the subtle integration of lighting into furniture and the development of a complex ceiling duct pattern to house the high level lighting without detracting from or disturbing the architecture.

Often, though, on smaller projects, budgets and ambitions are limited and changing the layout and wiring of lighting systems may not be possible. Lighting design is a job of the experts but on the simplest level, Rushton-Beales advises, but retailers can draw inspiration from the design of the freestanding displays used by concessions — especially perfume and cosmetics companies — which often make use of integrated, well-focused lighting, to ‘get the look.’

Photo: Stuart Woods/SW Photography

of the most stunning, recent examples of how this can be achieved with the renovation of a dark, narrow-fronted shopping centre in Bangkok, now known as Siam Discovery. Japanese architect Nendo opened up the frontage to create a light-filled, high-spec retail space. Inside, the circular atriums dotted throughout the building were turned into one big elongated canyon-like space nearly 60m long. Along one side of this new atrium there is a wall of some 200 frame-shaped boxes with video monitors, digital signage and displays; part artwork, part directory for the self-curated retail space that fills the majority of the interior.

The new frontage has a double skin of layered glazing incorporating lit frames designed by Inverse to draw customers into the centre. The arrangement of slim, rectangular frames, whose size and density varies, exactly matches that of the light boxes within. The combination gives the building depth and dynamism that has transformed it from a dingy block into an inviting emporium.

Closer to home, the refurbishment of Sunset Walk at Centre:MK in Milton Keynes, a grade-II listed building with daylit arcades and a mirrored façade dating from 1979, provides another example of a scheme that creates a destination. ‘Having the right shops is only half the attraction; consumers want the overall experience to be one of visual stimulation and luxury,’ says Lighting Design International, which paid special attention to the entrance atriums, emphasising their volume and giving the centre a strong and enticing visual presence when viewed from distance.

Gold-finished geometric ‘kites’, uplit with spotlights, lead the visitor to the lower ceilinged mall, where they are echoed in a total of 960 hexagonal, mirrored ceiling lights fashioned from stainless steel. Their auric finish evokes luxury but in addition to psychological comforts they provide practical benefits including high colour-rendering and luminous output, full dimmability and ease of installation and maintenance.

Photo: Andrew Beasley

Below: PJC Light Studio seamlessly integrated lighting into the architectural language of the 16th-century Fondaco dei Tedeschi in Venice, home to high-end retailer DFS.

Retail Focus Sloan Advert Outlines.indd 1

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products

LIGHTING cpn lighting control cpn has provided the lighting controls for BAGNODESIGN’S new European flagship showroom on King’s Road in London. cpn supplied hardwired DALI controllers throughout both floors to broadcast DALI signals to switch and dim the luminaires and also control emergency lighting. Each floor was split into two different zones with more than 60 luminaires in the basement area and over 70 luminaires on the larger ground floor showroom section. All of the controllers provide staff with a high level of flexibility and the ability to manage lighting levels manually when sufficient natural daylight is permeating the area, or to produce a more relaxing ambience.

T. +44 (0)845 075 5884 E: sales@cpnorthern.co.uk www.cpnorthern.co.uk Twitter: CPNorthern

Feilo Sylvania Sylvania has designed and installed an innovative lighting solution at POD’s Chiswell Street branch in London. By taking a fresh approach and combining the latest products with the ground-breaking SylSmart wireless control solution, Sylvania has significantly improved the in-store customer experience.

Solutions used included track-mounted Concord Mini Continuum II LED linear luminaires, Concord Beacon XL Muse spotlights, Concord Beacon GOBO Projectors and Lumiance LED strip lighting, all of which were enabled by Sylvania’s groundbreaking wireless control system — SylSmart. Visit the company at LuxLive on 15-16 November at ExCel London.

T. +44 (0)800 440 2478 E: info@feilosylvania.com www.feilosylvania.com Twitter: FeiloSylvania

Reggiani The new L’Occitane flagship in New York incorporates contemporary interpretations of typical Provençal scenes into distinct shopping areas. Reggiani’s Yori luminaires help recreate these scenes within the store interior while creating a single, cohesive journey for the customer. Both the entrance and storefront windows incorporate Reggiani’s Yori projector with its high CRI LED light source to help direct attention to colourful product displays and emphasise the vibrant palette of the branding. Perimeter displays are evenly washed with light focused through ribbed glass lenses, while narrow beam reflectors accent floor podiums and signage. The lighting track itself is suspended within a ceiling trellis where continually changing seasonal decorations are hung. In the hospitality area, light from above is gently filtered through the abstracted form of a tree canopy while feature elements are lit using a combination of two different Yori projectors.

T. +44 (0)20 8236 3000 E. reggiani@reggiani.co.uk www.reggiani.net Twitter: reggianilight

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Megaman At the LED Professional Symposium + Expo in Bregnez, Austria last month, Megaman launched its new TECOH brochure. The new TECOH brochure provides extensive information on Megaman’s complete range of high performance light engines and modules.

The catalogue features detailed product information and data sheets on a range of socketable and non-socketable solutions, with either an integrated LED Light Engine (LLE) or non-integrated (module) electronic driver.

T. +44 (0)1707 386 000 E: marketing@megamanuk.com www.megamanuk.com Twitter: MegamanUKLtd

products

Fagerhult Fagerhult has partnered with Debenhams to launch a new lighting concept that gives customers control of their individual changing room environment, allowing them to easily modify the environment so that it replicates typical situations from daily life. Stevenage is the first of the retailer’s stores to adopt the innovative concept in the UK. The store also features Touch, Fagerhult’s latest range of smart spotlights that offer increased performance and light quality. The company also developed unique lighting solutions across the store that not only enhance the overall look and feel but also reduce energy consumption and carbon emissions.

T. +44 (0)20 7403 4123 E: light@fagerhult.co.uk www.fagerhult.co.uk Twitter: FagerhultUK

Ansorg The ultra-flexible, award-winning Coray family is a range of universal fittings for all retail applications, from decorative lighting to the illumination of peripheral and central areas. The luminaires come in various sizes and designs, providing dynamic yet consistently stylish lighting. The powerful driver is invisibly integrated and all surface-mounted luminaires rotate 360 degrees and pivot 90 degrees. The accessories range includes reflectors, collimators, glasses and films which can be used as required to ensure optimum light distribution in brilliant quality, and excellent colour rendition whatever the ceiling height.

T. +44 (0)20 7954 3058 E: info-gb@ansorg.com www.ansorg.com

Hacel Lighting The Aleda range of ported downlighters offers maximum versatility to a host of lighting scenarios. Available in Solo, Duet or Trio formats with a refined and discreet semi-recessed port, the distinctive luminaires are aesthetically designed with the inclusion of Aleda downlighters, offering excellent pan and tilt adjustment further enhancing the products outstanding appeal. Available in a choice of lumen outputs, delivering up to 5,029 lumens per Aleda head, including efficacies up to 127 lm/W, the Aleda range features the latest single point LED modules and converters, with a life expectancy in excess of 60,000 hours (L70, B10) and colour stability within 3 MacAdams.

T. +44 (0)191 280 9911 E: sales@hacel.co.uk www.hacel.co.uk Twitter: Hacel1

Zumtobel SUPERSYSTEM II from Zumtobel has been used to illuminate the ‘Luther and the Germans’ exhibition at Wartburg Castle in Eisenach. The new system replaces lighting that was more than 20 years old. The multifunctional SUPERSYSTEM II LED system features throughout large swathes of the 1,000 sq m exhibition space, providing a striking new look for both the venue itself and around 300 exhibits. The miniaturised modular system, with a low voltage track and a wide range of light inserts, delivers special lighting accents and a variety of different lit effects.

Miniature spotlights that measure just 45mm are mounted on a sleek track, which is only 30mm high x 26mm wide, to guarantee outstanding design flexibility.

T. +44 (0)1388 420 042 E. info.uk@zumtobelgroup.com www.zumtobel.com Twitter: Zumtobeluk

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award

Readers’ Choice Award 2017

Twelve window displays, one winner... you decide!

THE SHORTLIST

In September we welcomed a panel of industry experts to WallaceSpace in Bloomsbury to take part in the preliminary judging process for the third annual Retail Focus Readers’ Choice Award. The group was tasked with creating a shortlist of what they considered the best window displays from those featured in Retail Focus magazine between September 2016 and August 2017.

The judges evaluated the schemes based on certain criteria, including innovation, originality and creativitiy, and true reflection of the brand identity.

The shortlist is now open to the public vote until Tuesday 31 October 2017 and the winner will be announced at the VM & Display Awards on Thursday 23 November 2017.

Clarks — AW16 Charles Tyrwhitt — Jermyn Street Style Jimmy Choo — Christmas flagships Selfridges — Shine On! Ted Baker — The North Pole Dancer Saks Fifth Avenue — Now Arriving Fortnum & Mason — Every Cup Tells a Story Hermès — SS17 Debenhams — Tropical Fiesta Bergdorf Goodman x Lee Broom Hermès — Summer 17 Harrods x Gucci

To vote, visit www.retail-focus.co.uk/vote or log on to the Retail Focus Facebook page at www.facebook.com/retailfocusmagazine

3 4 2 1

5 THE JUDGES 1 2 3 4 5

Katy Trodd — retail projects manager at Visual Thinking Nathan Watts — creative director at FITCH James Shouli — founder of Making Noise Quietly Siu-Lan Choi — creative director at Household Design Ayshen Ali — lecturer in fashion management and marketing at the University for the Creative Arts

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Jimmy Choo Christmas flagships

award

Photography: Melvyn Vincent

Clarks AW16

Charles Tyrwhitt Jermyn Street Style

‘Small space, big impact,’ Sui-Lan Choi

Hermes Summer ‘17

‘Very different and looks cool,’ James Shouli

Fortnum & Mason Every Cup Tells A Story

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Hermes SS17

Photo credit: Set design by Noa Verhofstad @ Unit CMA - www.unit.nl

Ted Baker The North Pole Dancer

award Debenhams Tropical Fiesta

Harrods x Gucci

Image courtesy of Gucci

‘Sumptious,’ Nathan Watts

Bergdorf x Lee Broom

‘Simple yet striking’, Katy Trodd

‘Bergdorf does amazing collaborations,’ Ayshen Ali

Selfridges Shine On!

Saks Now Arriving

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st christopher’s place

ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

Text: Lyndsey Dennis Photography: Jonathan Pryce and Brendan Bell

A buzzing quarter nestled between Oxford Street and Marylebone, St Christopher’s Place offers a perfect balance of shopping and dining in true cosmopolitan style.

Look out for the landmark purple clock as you walk along Oxford Street and you’ll suddenly discover the entrance to St Christopher’s Place — home to an eclectic mix of shops, boutiques, restaurants and bars in London. Framed by pedestrianised streets, this unique shopping destination is home to some of Britain’s best brands including the Whistles flagship store and Mulberry’s oldest boutique.

Dating back to the 18th Century, St Christopher’s Place was previous known as Barretts Court and became the go-to place for trades such as lampmaking, drapers and bookmakers. Thereafter, Oxford Street originated as a vibrant hub for retail and culture in the 19th Century. As time progressed, the idea of a smaller shopping quarter alongside Oxford Street became more popular. A property developer began what we now know as St Christopher’s Place, creating the unique all-day dining and retail experience that is available in the area.

St Christopher’s Place sits at the heart of the West End between Selfridges and Bond Street Station, and features 28 restaurants and 31 shops (many with outdoor dining), including Mulberry, L’Occitane, Jigsaw, Busaba Eathai, Carluccios and more. The area has welcomed a variety of new restaurants and shops this year, including Sri Lanken dining experience Hoppers, hat makers Christys’, Euphorium bakery, Japanese restaurant Bone Daddies

Above: The landmark purple clock sits at the entrance to St Christopher’s Place on Oxford Street.

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st christopher’s place

and Turkish restaurant Yamabahçe.

The area is renowned for its diverse food, coffee and cocktails.

With nearly 30 restaurants and cafés, many with outside dining, there’s a cuisine to suit every palette. Visitors can sample authentic Italian at Carluccios, roasted coffee at The Workshop or hop to Cocochan for a pan Asian feast.

To continue a buzz around the quarter, St Christopher’s Place holds consumer-facing activations throughout the year to engage Londoners, local workers and tourists alike. For Summer 2017 the area hosted Summer Tastefest, a three-day celebration of summer dining, which tapped into the latest trend of destination micro-festivals and featured pop-ups. There was live music and vibrant offerings by shops and restaurants on the street.

‘St Christopher’s Place is a hidden treasure trove of fantastic

boutiques and is the perfect oasis away from the frenzy of Oxford Street, but due to its prime Central London location attracts a wide array of different shoppers from tourists to local residents. I think that the area has its own character and offers a distinctive shopping experience whilst still being in the heart of London’s retail centre,’ says Justin Rhodes, founder and creative director of belt specialist Elliot Rhodes that has a store in the quarter. ‘Having already established two thriving stores in Covent Garden and Sloane Square we were looking for a retail environment that would in some way mimic the boutique style and vibe of both of these locations whilst at the same time being in a prime retail location.

St Christopher’s Place really did tick the box.’

Looking to the future, St Christopher’s Place will execute the third instalment of a floral installation in 2018, which will celebrate the emerging spring fashion season. The activation will include engaging visitor experience and retailer involvement and will feature a never-seen-before installation with a homage to British art and culture.

‘As one of London’s best-loved meeting places, we continue to opitimise St Christopher’s Place with new flavours of food and drink, a variety of retail shops and seasonal pop-up activiations to offer unique and engaging experiences for visitors,’ says Margaret Newman, general manager of St Christopher’s Place. ‘Next year, we are excited to created a show-stopping floral installation and are looking forward to seeing what 2018 brings forth.

Above: St Christopher’s Place features 31 shops and 28 restaurants, many with outdoor dining space.

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opinion

Beauty and the beard:

Banishing the male grooming stigma In a booming industry brands and retailers must step up to the plate, says Matthew Ellison, head of planning at The Shopper Agency.

Whether it’s the latest age-defying moisturiser, a new hair product promising great things or a quirky preening treatment, the male grooming market is booming. From just four per cent of men using beauty products in 1991 to more than 50 per cent purchasing online in 2016, cosmetics are piling up in the shopping baskets of men all over the country. But one question remains, is there still a stigma associated with male grooming?

Although the statistics seem to speak for themselves, these alone aren’t enough to cause a significant attitude change.

The main obstacle we face in overcoming stigmas is challenging perceptions. Male grooming is still classed as ‘feminine’, with anything more than a haircut or beard trim being met with criticism. Step inside the online world of male makeup YouTubers and you’ll soon be met with the cyber bullying they face on a weekly basis. If men are more likely than women to buy toiletries online, why are we still hung up on them using these products? Big brands are recognising the market potential.

With the male grooming market set to be worth an eyewatering $26.6 billion in 2020, brands owe it to their customers to help banish discriminatory attitudes.

Although the idea of high street stores stocking full men’s makeup collections might still be a few years away, big brands are recognising the marketspace potential for male beauty products. Father’s Day this year saw eBay create a dedicated men’s grooming hub in partnership with L’Oréal, featuring the Men Expert range alongside selected brands such as electronics giant Phillips and beard grooming specialists Mo Bros.

L’Oréal’s UK boss also announced in August men’s makeup counters could be a reality within five years, as the idea of wearing makeup becomes less taboo in

a‘selfie generation’. Slightly ahead of the curve, Tom Ford made history in 2013 by being the first major designer to release a makeup line dedicated to men. Fast forward to 2017 and ASOS has broken boundaries to start stocking MMUK MAN makeup in its male grooming section on-site. The beauty range has been around since 2012 but this partnership is predicted to catapult its success, aimed at guys who ‘simply want to look their best everyday’.

Male vs female attitudes to shopping To tap into this growing retail sphere, one thing brands need to understand is how male and female attitudes typically differ towards buying beauty products. Research over the past couple of years has shown that shopper motives differ according to gender; men adopt a utilitarian attitude where as women are much more hedonic.

In other words, men focus on the functional aspect of a product, choosing brands that offer good value and are fit for purpose.

Women, on the other hand, desire an emotional shopping experience and want to gain a greater understanding of a brand’s story; they want to be sold a ‘lifestyle’. It’s worth noting however, that our attitudes towards brands and products are constantly changing. New names in ‘male lifestyle’ are constantly entering the blogosphere and with them comes opinions, arguments and emotions — could our shopping habits be evolving?

What can brands do?

With this in mind, there’s no one-rule-fits-all when it comes to marketing to the other half of the population; brands must be agile in their approach and steer clear of old fashioned attitudes that ‘real men’ don’t wear makeup. The fact of the matter is, some of the world’s biggest male figures embrace a spot of cover up and additional beautification from time to time.

Brands have an obligation to help break down the gender stereotypes of beauty, firstly starting with their visual appeal.

Packaging subtly reinforces the male vs female binary. Male grooming products are grey, black, steel and clearly labelled

FOR MEN — even though the ingredients are likely to be the same as the female alternative. Although men’s ‘utilitarian’ shopping attitudes might not warrant extravagant emotion-provoking packaging (yet), it doesn’t mean brands can’t appeal beyond black, white and grey. In the same way that children’s toy brands are moving away from pink for girls and blue for boys, male grooming brands need to adopt a similar stance. So guys, it’s okay to pick up a product that falls outside your usual visual appeal!

Change is coming 2017 could therefore become known as the year of change. In January, cosmetics giant Maybelline New York named YouTuber Manny Gutierrez as its first male ambassador. With more than two million subscribers, the online star is well placed to share makeup tutorials and advise on beauty regimes, to both his male and female followers. The decision follows American colour cosmetics brand CoverGirl’s announcement in October 2016 that makeup artist James Charles has been named its first ‘cover boy’.

Even Snapchat jumped on the boundary breaking bandwagon with a ‘Discover’ channel called ‘Boy Beauty’ that saw social media stars offering makeup tips for guys.

Although not met without criticism, these tactical moves demonstrate a signal change in the industry, breaking traditional gender norms. More beauty brands need to follow suit to engage their male audience, roping in the help of celebs or influencer ambassadors to break the stigma. A final point worth sharing is that Mintel’s 2017 Beauty Retailing Report highlighted that 64 per cent of male beauty buyers purchase products in supermarkets over any other retail destination, suggesting there is real opportunity for brands to engage these shoppers and trigger additional spending in this environment.

So, chaps, next time you’re doing your weekly food shop you might just find yourself lingering a little longer down the beauty aisle.

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products

SURFACES & FINISHES Corian Corian has been specified by architect Object Space Place at the Victoria Gate and Victoria Quarter shopping centres in Leeds to create landlord furniture and kiosks.

Corian helps to achieve a strong yet elegant and cohesive design statement that connects the historic Victorian arcade with a modern retail setting. Running through the shopping arcades are a series of elliptical information desks, plus seating booths and other elements, all formed from the refined beauty and adaptability of Corian. In the recently introduced Deep Nocturne colour — part of a series of rich, saturated dark tones made with DeepColour Technology — these organically flowing elements make a distinctive impact while offering multi-functionality.

T. +44 (0)800 962 116 E: info@corian.co.uk www.corian.uk Twitter: coriandesign

James Latham James Latham has become a major distributor of Abet Laminati, a leading manufacturer of decorative high pressure laminate (HPL). In a move which significantly strengthens its credentials as a leading laminate supplier in the UK, James Latham will be offering the full Abet range across all nine of its nationwide panel depots. ‘Abet has always focused strongly on creativity and innovation, and with links to the best Italian and international designers in the business, they offer a diverse range of laminates in many colours, styles and textures to suit almost any application Rob Smith, Latham’s group laminate manager, T. +44 (0)116 257 3415 E: marketing@lathams.co.uk www.lathamtimber.co.uk Twitter: lathamsltd

Surface Styling For designers and specifiers, the Surface Styling design resource can take the headache out of sourcing the multiple surfaces that are required for interior projects. The portfolio embraces the world’s most innovative materials with more than 12,000 product lines to choose from. Products on display at 100% Design in September included a new worksurface range made from the specialist nanotechnology surface, Fenix NTM, plus the latest additions to Avonite, Hanex and Hanex Stratum solid surface, Showerwall bathroom panelling, the Swiss Krono One World collection of decorative panels and Malmo luxury vinyl flooring.

T. +44 (0)845 603 7811 E: info@surfacestyling.co.uk www.surfacestyling.co.uk Twitter: SurfaceStyling

Armourcoat Decorative specialist Armourcoat exhibited at Decorex in September. Taking place at the start of the London Design Festival in the grounds of historic Syon House, Decorex is synonymous with luxury design, offering a collection of more than 400 hand-selected exhibitors. Armourcoat presented an attractive range of hand-applied polished plaster wall finishes and the latest additions to the Signature Collection. The company also launched its Armourcoat Acoustic Plaster System designed to optimise the acoustics of interior spaces. An array of global projects for an impressive list of international blue chip clients in the residential, hospitality and boutique retail sectors have established Armourcoat as a leading supplier of high quality surface finishes. Armourcoat products are made from natural minerals including recycled Italian marble, and contain low or zero VOCs, with a full 10-year guarantee.

T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E: sales@armourcoat.co.uk www.armourcoat.com Twitter: Armourcoat

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MAKE AN IMPRESSION With our super range of Flooring.

Featuring high performing products that offer an unmatched level of performance, longevity and quality.

Call us now to find out more on 01985 218994 or visit www.jaymart.co.uk Jaymart Rubber & Plastics Ltd.

Roman Way, Crusader Park, Warminster, Wiltshire, BA12 8SP

Mats and Floors

products

FLOORING Karndean Designflooring Luxury vinyl flooring specialist Karndean Designflooring is updating its sophisticated Art Select collection with four new wood designs. Designed to accommodate the growing desire for zoning individual spaces and matching ‘room to room’ designs, Karndean Designflooring is introducing the cool and multi-tonal grey hues of Storm Oak in a matching full length plank (1219mm x 178mm), parquet (228mm x 76mm) and basketweave (305mm x 76mm, 114mm x 114mm) formats. With an existing Spring Oak full length plank and parquet design already available, the collection will also welcome a new Spring Oak basketweave design.

T. +44 (0)1386 820 104 E: commercial@karndean.co.uk www.karndean.com Twitter: KarndeanComm

Junckers Riverside Campus at City of Glasgow College has won a multitude of architectural awards for its outstanding design.

Home to the Maritime College, the new building features a grand atrium where Junckers 22mm Oak Harmony finished in Ultramatt laquer was specified for the expansive staircase and walkway.

The flooring adds natural warmth to the large, open space and provides a hardwearing surface for a busy college environment.

The flooring contractor was McKay Flooring. Junckers solid hardwood flooring is made from renewable, sustainable forests.

T. +44 (0)1376 534 700 E. enquiries@junckers.co.uk www.junckers.co.uk Twitter: junckersfloors

Polyflor Vinyl flooring manufacturer Polyflor has added new wood effect designs to its relaunched Forest fx PUR flooring collection, incorporating the latest commercial interior trends into one of the company’s most popular sheet vinyl ranges. The expanded 18 design heterogeneous collection features nine new shades, including two parquet effect designs for dramatic statement floors as well as a selection of contemporary grey-toned oaks and rustic wood designs which add variety to the collection. The Forest fx range is available in a practical and resilient 2.0mm gauge vinyl sheet format with a 0.7mm wear layer, making it ideal for high traffic, heavy commercial environments in the education, healthcare, leisure, retail, housing and office sectors.

Forbo Flooring Systems In response to the growing demand for a hybrid entrance flooring system, Forbo Flooring Systems has launched Coral Click; a new versatile modular matting system comprising durable PVC tiles with contemporary Coral Brush textile inserts.

The new cost effective, off-the-shelf system can withstand heavy traffic and effectively removes dirt and moisture from the soles of shoes and wheel treads. The tiles, available with a choice of five colourways and two depths, contain no metal and are therefore ideal for use in retail premises with electronic-tagging systems.

T. +44 (0)844 822 3928 E. info.flooring.uk@forbo.com www.forbo-flooring.co.uk/coralclick Twitter: forboflooringuk

T. +44 (0)161 767 1111 E: info@polyflor.com www.polyflor.com Twitter: Polyflorltd

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DESIGN DETAILS Knauf AMF The Vape Superstore in London E8 has been shortlisted for an International Interior Design Award. Designed by Catherine White Interiors, the contemporary environment creates a welcoming ambience for customers. Heradesign from Knauf AMF is installed as a large ceiling raft to enhance the modern interior and offer outstanding acoustic control. Heradesign is a popular choice for architects and interior designers who want to produce a less processed, simpler aesthetic. Heradesign is manufactured from sustainable wood-wool sourced from PEFC and FSC certified forests. Its naturally textured surface offers a comfortable feeling helping occupants feel in touch with nature.

T. +44 (0)191 518 8600 E. info@knaufamf.co.uk www.knaufamf.co.uk Instagram: @knauf.amf.ceilingandwalldesign

Armourcoat Designed by Double Retail, the new G-SHOCK store in Carnaby Street, London features Armourcoat’s ArmourFX modular panel system. ArmourFX concrete effect panels are ideal for a deconstructed urban look for contemporary projects. The panels offer a wealth of design options to achieve a distinctive industrial style including distressed effects or recessed ‘shutter’ markings. They can be highly customised to suit the client, sent directly to site and installed in a few hours.

T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E: sales@armourcoat.co.uk www.armourcoat.com Twitter: Armourcoat

dormakaba Security and door solutions provider dormakaba has launched exivo, a new cloud-based access control system.

The latest addition to the range is a fully scalable, fee-based solution developed for small and medium sized businesses, including those with multi-site requirements. Simple to install and with an intuitive design, the system is flexible to meet changing needs. exivo provides a complete security and access control system, paid purely on a price per door basis. This cost effective solution ensures that buildings with a smaller amount of doors will pay less — something that software based smart access solutions can’t always provide.

Each door can be fitted with a wireless digital cylinder lock or lever handle, which due to their dimensions can easily replace existing door hardware, or in circumstances where this is not desired a wireless component can be added.

T. +44 (0)870 000 5625 E. info.uk@kaba.com www.dormakaba.co.uk Twitter: dormakaba_UKI

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Anchor Magnets Attract is a multifunctional, double or single-sided magnetic display system, designed for use throughout a retail environment.

The versatile nature of Attract allows it to be installed as a freestanding, wall-mounted or suspended unit. Attract contains an internal magnetic surface housed within an elegant, sleek frame.

The magnetic surface works in conjunction with printed ferrous media such as digifilm, which is overlaid onto the magnetic surface. Displays to be quickly and easily changed or updated, and promotional messaging to be added instantly.

T. +44 (0)114 244 1171 E. sales@anchormagnets.com www.anchormagnets.com Twitter: AnchorMagnets

Photo Credit: SLVHCS ‘Project Legacy’, New Orleans, USA © Sean Airhart/NBBJ

products

SIGNAGE & DISPLAY Graphica Display Graphica Display specialises in the design, production and installation of retail and commercial interior graphics and signage. From roll-outs to promotional displays, branding to exhibition and event graphics, Graphica Display has the solution for you. Find out more about the company at its new and exciting website: www.graphicadisplay.co.uk T. +44 (0)845 373 0073 E: sales@graphicadisplay.co.uk www.graphicadisplay.co.uk Twitter: graphicatweet

Durable UK Durable’s versatile TABLET HOLDER range enables you to present tablets in any customer facing retail environment including stores and showrooms. With its stylish design and premium aluminium finish, the TABLET HOLDER FLOOR stand is a versatile retail accessory. The screen can be smoothly adjusted and rotated and a cable channel at the rear allows the tablet to charge whilst in use. Simple one-handed operation makes placing and removing the tablet fast and easy, and the tablet also can be secured into place via a locking system which prevents theft during use.

T. +44 (0)01202 897 071 E. customeroperations @durable-uk.com www.durable-uk.com Twitter: durableuk

NEC Display Solutions NEC Display Solutions unveiled a new range of large format displays for commercial applications with the introduction of the NEC MultiSync C Series. The latest additions to its range of fully commercial displays consist of three models, ranging in size from 43 to 55 inches — C431, C501 and C551. All three models have a mechanical depth of only 45mm. With a modern and slim design, high-definition image brilliance and multiple inputs, C Series models are ideally suited as digital signage displays for informational and advertising purposes, as well as presentation devices for smaller conference rooms and huddle spaces.

T. +44 (0)870 120 1160 E. infomail@nec-displays.com www.nec-display-solutions.co.uk Twitter: NEC_Display_UK

Kendu Designed and manufactured by Kendu, Flowbox is the latest innovation for in-store communication. A new generation of LED displays, Flowbox is tailor-made for the retail sector and combines quality-printed tension fabric with motion effects and dynamic animation. Since launching in 2017, Flowbox has received multiple accolades including ‘Best Signage Graphics’ and ‘Best in Competition’ in the IIDA GlobalShop Product Design Competition, ‘Best Store Solution & Design’ at the Paris Retail Awards and ‘AIT Trend 2017’ finalist at EuroShop. Kendu is a European company with more than 16 years of experience in pioneering in-store visual communication solutions.

T. +44 (0)20 3735 5258 E. info@kendu.com www.kendu.com Twitter: KenduInStore

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@retailfocus

Advert 86mm wide x 127mm deep 10-05-2017

Dragon Display Systems

Designed and Manufactured in the UK

Manufacturers of merchandising systems, especially for clothing-related retailers, including bespoke production.

www.dragondisplay.co.uk Display Systems Ltd

Tel 01952 290055 • Fax: 01952 290056 • sales@dragondisplay.co.uk

www.brochureholders.com

Premium quality UK manufactured leaflet dispensers & brochure displays

Counter Stands

Outdoor Holders

Rotating Displays

Wall Mounted

Brochure Holders International Limited Brochure Holders International Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions.

The Taymar range offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘crystal clear’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays.

Sales & Distribution Enquiries Tel: +44 (0)1473 229250 | sales@brochureholders.co.uk Business Cards

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Single Page

Multi-Pocket

Floor Stands

Unit 1 Holywells Road, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP3 0DL. United Kingdom

products

VM & DISPLAY Hans Boodt Mannequins Hans Boodt Mannequins presents the Zoë Popcandy collection. Zoë has a doll-like charm, a girl with a unique look — petite and serene but at the same time full of confidence. Her sky-high legs and long and elegant arms give her a strong and powerful attitude. The colourful finishes in combination with the contrasting lips give Zoë a fun and sweet appearance.

T. +31 (0)78 623 11 00 E: info@hansboodt.com www.hansboodt.com Twitter: hans_boodt

Harlequin Design For Hackett London’s Autumn window scheme, inquisitive British animals have been put in the spotlight, encapsulating the contrast between city and countryside. Red squirrels, a fox and badger have all been 3D printed, cast and flocked to interact with Hackett’s latest collection of gentlemen’s accessories.

Delivered across all European stores, Harlequin designed, produced and installed the scheme across 27 sites.

T. +44 (0)20 7253 6238.

E. andrew@harlequin-design.com www.harlequin-design.com Twitter: HarlequinLondon

StudioXAG For the launch of Tommy Hilfiger and Gigi Hadid’s new collection during London Fashion Week, StudioXAG produced and installed exclusive take-overs of Selfridges London and Harrods. In store, two corresponding spaces were created for menswear and womenswear. which focus on the use of Tommy Hilfiger’s signature red and blue block colours, along with striking campaign imagery. For Harrods, StudioXAG commissioned a bespoke six metre-wide carpet, surrounded by lacquered rails and plinths.

T. +44 (0)20 8539 8606 E. hello@studioxag.com www.studioxag.com Twitter: studioxag

CJ Retail Solutions The team at CJ Retail Solutions were crowned victorious at the POPAI Awards after taking home Gold in the ‘installation’ category. Marking the awards’ 11th anniversary and CJ Retail Solutions’ 15th win at the prestigious event, the team continued to demonstrate the effort and dedication required to succeed within the retail marketing industry. From a large pool of talented competitors, only two entries were selected for the category, hand-picked by a panel of judges. The award celebrates the pivotal role CJ Retail Solutions’ had in providing high-street retailer, Boots and its 111 nationwide stores, with an impressive ‘Interactive Shopping Experience Installation’. Jane Ball, head of group marketing, says: ‘To be nominated in such a tight field, with just two competitors vying for the title, is an honor in itself, however being crowned the overall winner has just topped our year off — the award will stand as testament to our team’s passion. We are looking forward to what the future holds for CJ Retail Solutions, particularly as we continue to develop our global and group expansion.’

T. +44 (0)1928 597 777 E. enquiries@cjretailsolutions.com www.cjretailsolutions.co.uk Twitter: CJRSuk

Photography: Melvyn Vincent

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VM & DISPLAY arken POP It was an outstanding successful night for arken POP at the POPAI Awards earlier this month at the Lancaster London Hotel, with the company winning nine awards in total, including the overall top prize in the permanent POP sector – Display of the Year for its Superdrug Skincare display. arken has now achieved an astonishing 70 awards over the years of being involved in the awards.

T. +44 (0)1638 565 656 E: info@arken-pop.com www.arken-pop.com Twitter: arkenPOP

Andy Thornton The new Dr. Martens store in Camden tells the story of the brand’s spiritual home with images and artefacts from the mid 1900’s through to the present day, with select industrialstyle retail display fittings sourced from Andy Thornton. Many visual merchandising pieces from Andy Thornton’s hugely successful Vintage Style Collection can be seen around the store, complementing the original brickwork and stripped pine flooring. This Post Office shelving unit, which incorporates multi wire-mesh compartments and is ideal for displaying various styles of the famous brand, blends seamlessly with the period arched metal window frames and original props.

T. +44 (0)1422 376 000 E: sales@andythornton.com www.andythornton.com Twitter: andythorntonltd

EML Retail Display Combining more than 35 years of knowledge, expertise, quality and enthusiasm in retail display, EML is a leading supplier to many major retailers, brands and resellers. The company prides itself on innovative design, high quality goods and exemplary customer service. The team would love the opportunity to have a chat with you about your display requirements. Using its talented design team and extensive in-house production capabilities means that big or small, bespoke or off the shelf, EML will work with you to provide your perfect stress-free display solution. Visit www.emlexpress.com to see how the company can help further.

T. +44 (0)1462 650 700 E: sales@emlltd.com www.emlexpress.com Twitter: emlexpress

StormDFX StormDFX was awarded ‘Display of the Year – Temporary’ at the POPAI Awards for its PG Tips Motorised Toaster Display for Unilever. ‘A clean, crisp and clear design with strong branding and moving parts to disrupt the shopper in-store. Designed to be sited in tea, cereal or bakery areas, the display o offers flexibility to the retailer and an emotional connection with shoppers. Simple yet effective!’ said the judges.

T. +44 (0)1773 546 724 www.stormdfx.com Twitter: Storm_DFX

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Europe´s largest retailer and wholesale supplier for

Visual Merchandising

Freephone: 008001 9637637 Freefax: 008001 9737737 eMail: sales@decowoerner.com

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pop & display

focus on POP & DISPLAY POP and display solutions have a vital roll in housing items and allowing them to stand out at their best within the store environment and window schemes. From slatwalls for shoes to display plinths for sunglasses, this month we bring you a variety of solutions that make the product stand out and shine.

Stepping out MicroSlat International has supplied its aluminium slatwall products for Dune’s stores and concessions. The Dune contract called for the company to supply 7,700 aluminium pieces in white powder coat and 1,400 support uprights. MicroSlat’s flexibility allowed Dune’s shopfitters to create floorstanding gondolas as well as wall-mount display solutions. The strength of MicroSlat’s aluminium construction means it won’t bend or break under the weight of display materials.

www.microslat.com

Once you pop CJ Retail Solutions has delivered demonstration spaces for Toybuddy at Westfield Stratford, Westfield White City and The Manchester Arndale Centre. ‘After pitching against three other agencies, we won the contract to install, and then dismantle, pop-up displays for Toybuddy’s Christmas promotion. With installations required across multiple shopping centres, each with different rules and guidelines, our in-house project managers and field teams had to work hard to ensure each one was compliant,’ says Chris Langford, managing director at CJ Retail Solutions. This was a truly 360 degree interactive stand, which enabled staff to demonstrate the range to thousands of people and seamlessly process transactions without interrupting the retail experience of other customers.

www.cjretailsolutions.co.uk

Flight of fancy Canada Goose continues to develop its retail environments across Europe this Autumn with a series of shop-in-shop openings in London, Paris and Stockholm.

Designed by the brand’s architect, David A. Levy & Associates, Double Retail engineered, manufacturered and installed the retailer’s two new fitouts in Harrods — a large men’s and women’s shop on the fifth floor and a smaller pop-up on the lower ground floor showcasing the brand’s more refined Black Label collection. The spaces incorporate high performance architectural materials including textured concrete cladding panels, composite wood finishes, industrial polished steel and Canadian marble, echoing the brand’s technical detailing and superior quality.

www.doubleretail.com

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pop & display Best foot forward Harlequin Design worked with the Stella McCartney team to produce a series of plinths for a pop-up in the Shoe Heaven space in Harrods. The design agency’s in-house scenic artist created a stunning mix of layered acrylic and rust effect paint.

www.harlequin-design.com

Eye for detail As part of Linda Farrow’s international expansion, Sheridan&Co created a shop-in-shop concept for the sunglasses retailer in Paris. While the colour palette of the interior is neutral, the play on different material textures — from stone and marbling effect to brushed metallic — amplifies light and space, allowing the eyewear displays to take centre stage. The Linda Farrow logo that crowns a wall display unit on either side of the 47 sq m space is vinyl finished in brushed gold. Display plinths of varying heights arranged to offset textures and finishes (dark marble against stone against brushed gold) create an arresting focal point at the centre of the store, while a longer display unit that curves and stretches the full length of the room mimics the same effect in miniature form, with small gold frame hand mirrors interspersed in the display to break up the monotony.

www.sheridanandco.com

Fashion focus For this year’s London Fashion Week, Dover Street Market in Haymarket unveiled a host of new installations and displays. Loewe unveiled a new bag display on the ground floor featuring new designs from its AW17 collection, along with a new installation in the Loewe Space on the second floor.

www.doverstreetmarket.com

Eye catcher Shimmerwalls has completed this project for fashion house Caroline Bliss in 30 stores across four countries in Europe. The Mirror Wall board system sees laser-cut acrylic mirrors replacing the traditional film sequins, allowing for larger and more dramatic glass-like displays of shimmer. A bespoke colourway of gold and silver mix was created for the Autumn window displays in Belgium, Germany, Luxemburg and The Netherlands.

Individual sequins were also scattered amongst the displays.

www.shimmerwalls.com

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directory

DIREcTORIES

www.retail-focus.co.uk/directory Visit the Retail Focus online directory at www.retail-focus.co.uk to discover a comprehensive list of the UK’s leading retail suppliers. Each listing contains indepth company information together with inspirational images, video footage and informative press material. You can also link through to company websites and connect with suppliers through Twitter and Facebook.

The Retail Supplier Directory is divided into a number of categories, such as design agencies, point-of-purchase, lighting, props and surfaces, to make the site easy to navigate.

To feature in the online directory, contact Terry Clark on 0845 6807405 or email terry@retailfocus.co

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directory

Aluminium Fittings

Specialist Stockist of Aluminium Extrusions and Mild Steel Fittings for the shopfitting industry.

Extensive stock held of: *Slotted uprights *Aluminium slatwall *Perimeter Sections *Corner sections *Design and bespoke service.

T: 01273 582241 E: sales@diasystems.co.uk W: www.diagroup.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/DesignsinAlumin

Aluminium Fittings

Bespoke Display

Bespoke Display

Design Consultancies

Axis design, develop, manufacture and install bespoke retail display solutions.

We’ve worked with the biggest names on the high street, but approach every project in the same way, with the maximum thought for your brand, products and sales environment.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

T, 020 3260 3888 E. info@axiseurope.com W.www.axiseurope.com/retail S. www.twitter.com/AxisEuropePlc

Bespoke Display

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

Bespoke Display

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

Design Consultancies

MicroSlat is a strong versatile 25mm fine pitched aluminium slatwall system.

With a bespoke range of components it can be used to build unique and interesting displays or add value to existing designs.

Original suppliers of display fabrics, textiles, PVC and polycarbonates for retail displays and exhibition stands since 1934 Backgrounds have been our background since backgrounds began and B Brown have more than 400 in stock.

Walker Bros (Elland) Ltd is an Engineering Manufacturing company specialising in sheet metalwork and plastic fabrication.

We supply precision metal and plastic products, components and light fabrications to a broad range of industries and markets throughout the UK and Europe.

IGNITION is an independent creative company Our multi-disciplined team work together to deliver exceptional retail and commercial environments, global exhibitions and brands.

T. 01325 351 276 E. sales@microslat.com W. www.microslat.com S. www.twitter.com/MicroSlat

T, 08705 340 340 E. customerservices@bbrown.co.uk W. www.bbrown.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/luvbbrown

T: 0 01422 310767 E: sales@wbelland.com W: www.wbelland.com

T, +44 (0) 1179 725168 E. victoria@ignitiondg.com W. www.ignitiondg.com

Audio Visual Integration

Anna Valley looks to help guide clients with their audio visual decision making by offering high end impartial advice and help manoeuvre them through the current “minefield” of different technology and services available to them. This process then enables them to have a clear vision of what they are actually striving to achieve within the budget available to them and then provides a full range of services in the delivery of that vision.

Bespoke Display

Hello Flamingo is a creative company for the retail and event sector, specialising in window displays, in store solution, POP ups, project management, design, manufacture and installation for bespoke projects at our fully equipped manufacturing workshop.

Brochure Holders

Design Consultancies

Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions.

Committed to on-going product development the Taymar group offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘clear view’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays.

We are TWO Visual, the retail agency specialising in visual merchandising.

Led by brand directors Jeanette Cheetham and Brendan Gordon we provide everything retailers need to make their brands visually dynamic, whilst improving team and commercial performance.

T: +44 (0)1473 229250 E: sales@brochureholders.co.uk W: www.brochureholders.com

T, +44 (0) 1858 414275 E. hello@twovisual.co.uk W. www. twovisual.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/TWO_Visual

T: +44 (0)208 941 1000 E: nick.shaw@annavalley.co.uk W: www.annavalley.co.uk/avintegration

T: 01273 585768 E: info@helloflamingo.co.uk W: www.helloflamingo.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/helloflamingo1

Balloons & Bunting

Bespoke Display

Climate Control

Display

No.1 Advertising Balloon Service: • Printed Latex and Foil Balloons • Helium Gas delivery and collection • Flags, Bunting and Banners • Promotional Sashes and T-shirts • Multi-store distribution nationwide

KSF provides retail merchandising display solutions to retailers, brands and trade customers from CONCEPT to COMPLETION via our global supply chain (China/UK/East EU) to deliver LOWER total cost of ownership. YOU’VE TRIED THE REST; NOW PUT US TO THE TEST.

Air Control & Development Ltd are Daikin, Mitsubishi and Toshiba accredited contractors, specialising in providing quality air conditioning, ventilation and overdoor heater installations, service & maintenance within the retail sector.

arken are a UK design and manufacturing facility creating bespoke poster display solutions. As well as our bespoke offer, we provide off the shelf products such as poster frames, light boxes, poster hanging systems, pavement signs, forecourt signs, all available in a range of colours and sizes.

T, 01494 774376 E. sales@b-loony.com W. www.b-loony.com

T: +44 (0)8450 944 699 E: ben.wang@ksf-global.com W: www.ksf-global.com S: www.twitter.com/KSFGlobal

T 01922 455523 E: info@aircontrol.co.uk W: www.aircontrol.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/AirControl123

T: +44 (0)1638 565656 E: info@arken-pop.com W: www.arken-pop.com

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Display

Focused on our customer’s unique needs, with expert knowledge of the procurement market, and a firm grip on the entire visual merchandising supply chain, we are specialists in designing and delivering complex point of sale projects.

T +49 (0) 911 97 13 389 E: info-uk@barthelmess.com W: www.barthelmess.com

Display

Display - DIGITAL

FURNITURE

Internationally acclaimed, award winning unique magnetic wall system offers instant flexibility & creative choice to architects, interiors & store designers.

Since launching the magnIQ system in 2006 the response has been quite phenomenal. To date the system has won 13 prestigious awards and is now internationally recognised justifying the many years Rare Basic spent on research and development.

Crystal Display Systems is already a leading UK designer, distributor and value added reseller of flat panel display solutions. We have a vast array of media players, interactive displays, videowalls and shelf edge displays.

Our knowledge and expertise has also led to us being one of the European leaders in transparent LCD.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

T +44 (0)20 8348 9888 E: mail@rarebasic.com W: www.rarebasic.com S: www.twitter.com/rarebasic

T: +44 (0) 1634 292 025 E: info@crystal-display.com W: www.crystal-display.com S. www.twitter.com/CrystalDisplays

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

Display

Display

Display - DIGITAL

FURNITURE

Durable have been one of Europe’s largest business supplies manufacturers for almost 100 years.

We’re pioneers in developing and producing innovative solutions designed for retail from literature displays and POS to signage and display solutions.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

We provide total end to end solutions encompassing all aspects of designing, implementing, managing and supporting multi-faceted marketing technology concepts and Digital Screen Media networks.

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

T, +44 (0)845 481 8020 E. info@screenmediatechnology.com W.screenmediatechnology.com S. www.twitter.com/ScreenMediaTech

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo

T. 01202 897 071 E. customeroperations@durable-uk.com W. www.durable-uk.com S. www.twitter.com/durableuk

Display

We are ICON. We create and deliver engaging brand and live experiences, particularly in the retail sector.

T: +44 (0) 20 7593 5200 E: enquiries@icon-world.com W: www.icon-world.com S: www.twitter.com/ICON_HQ

Display

EPOS

GRAPHICS

Providing Scotland’s signage, exhibition displays, digitally printed wallpapers, LED flex faces, light boxes and window graphics. Located in the centre of Scotland we are ideally situated to cover your requirements throughout Scotland. We can offer huge savings with an excellent, professional and prompt service

Offering an extensive range of EPOS hardware from world class suppliers such as Star Micronics, Honeywell and Posiflex, DED offer the complete EPOS hardware solution alongside a unique rewritable loyalty system.

Graphica Display print, produce and install retail graphics including till point graphics, window graphics, LED lightboxes, cut & printed vinyl and much more. Nationwide & Euorpean delivery and installation.

T: 0131 337 1237 E: info@specializedsigns.co.uk W: www.specializedsigns.co.uk FB: Specialized-Signs

T: 01797 320636 E: sales@ded.co.uk W: www.ded.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/dedltd

Display

Display

Kendu is a European company with over 16 years of experience in pioneering in-store visual communication solutions for retailers.

We design, manage and manufacture in-house to guarantee the best quality.

Woodwood Group –Tx Frame UK are a specialist in tension fabric display systems and LED light boxes. We are able to deliver the highest quality service with a friendly but professional approach to ensure you receive the spectacular results you deserve.

Armourcoat is the world’s foremost supplier of polished plasters, sculptural effects and innovative surface finishes.

T, + 44 (0)20 373 55 258 E. info@kendu.com W www.kendu.com S. www.twitter.com/KenduInStore

T, 01376 295 016 E. sales@txframe.co.uk W. www.txframe.co.uk

T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E. sales@armourcoat.co.uk W. www.armourcoat.com S. www.twitter.com/Armourcoat

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Finishes

T: 0845 3730073 E: info@graphicadisplay.co.uk W:www.graphicadisplay.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/graphicatweet

GRAPHICS

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo

directory

interactive displays

MANNEQUINS

pop/pos

signage

Crystal Display Systems is already a leading UK designer, distributor and value added reseller of flat panel display solutions. We have a vast array of media players, interactive displays, videowalls and shelf edge displays.

Our knowledge and expertise has also led to us being one of the European leaders in transparent LCD.

Rootstein Display Mannequins is a creative mannequin manufacturer and renovation specialist - delivering both ready-made and bespoke concepts for fashion retailers, globally.

Suppliers of innovative P.O.S display equipment and quality shopping baskets. In addition to our standard range of products we work with clients to create bespoke solutions to suit specific requirements.

Durable have been one of Europe’s largest business supplies manufacturers for almost 100 years.

We’re pioneers in developing and producing innovative solutions designed for retail from literature displays and POS to signage and display solutions.

T: +44 (0) 1634 292 025 E: info@crystal-display.com W: www.crystal-display.com S. www.twitter.com/CrystalDisplays

T: +44 20 7381 1447 E: sales@adelrootstein.co.uk W: www.rootstein.com/ S. @rootstein_

T: +44 (0)1924 468940 E: info@joalpe.co.uk W: www.joalpe.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/joalpeuk

T. 01202 897 071 E. customeroperations@durable-uk.com W. www.durable-uk.com S. www.twitter.com/durableuk

LIGHTING

LED Solutions are a specialist LED lighting supplier who can offer you a wide variety of bespoke lighting solutions for the sign, shop fitting and display industries.

T: 0116 262 5933 E: sales@ledsolutions.co.uk W: www.ledsolutions.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/ LEDSolutionsUK

Literature Display

Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions.

Committed to on-going product development the Taymar group offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘clear view’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays.

T: +44 (0)1473 229250 E: sales@brochureholders.co.uk W: www.brochureholders.com

Maintenance

Air Control & Development Ltd are Daikin, Mitsubishi and Toshiba accredited contractors, specialising in providing quality air conditioning, ventilation and overdoor heater installations, service & maintenance within the retail sector.

T 01922 455523 E: info@aircontrol.co.uk W: www.aircontrol.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/AirControl123

pop/pos

Harrison Products provide one the largest ranges of POS and Display componentry in the UK. We are able to supply off the shelf and customised products to suit your project. We pride ourselves on our industry leading service and super quick delivery options.

T: +44 (0)1451 830083 E: sales@harrisonproducts.net W harrisonproducts.net

pop/pos

Durable have been one of Europe’s largest business supplies manufacturers for almost 100 years.

We’re pioneers in developing and producing innovative solutions designed for retail from literature displays and POS to signage and display solutions.

T. 01202 897 071 E. customeroperations@durable-uk.com W. www.durable-uk.com S. www.twitter.com/durableuk

pop/pos

We are ICON. We create and deliver engaging brand and live experiences, particularly in the retail sector.

T: +44 (0) 20 7593 5200 E: enquiries@icon-world.com W: www.icon-world.com S: www.twitter.com/ICON_HQ

pop up

vm

Hello Flamingo is a creative company for the retail and event sector, specialising in window displays, in store solution, POP ups, project management, design, manufacture and installation for bespoke projects at our fully equipped manufacturing workshop.

GENESIS MANNEQUINS design and produce high-class and trend-lead shop window mannequins, busts and displays for the international fashion industry. Additionally we offer style, trend and product consultation as well as a comprehensive after-sales service.

T: 01273 585768 E: info@helloflamingo.co.uk W: www.helloflamingo.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/helloflamingo1

T: +49 (0) 5752 1803 0 E: info@genesis-display.com W: www.genesis-display.com S: www.twitter.com/GenesisDisplay

Retail Consultancy

vm

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

Rootstein Display Mannequins is a creative mannequin manufacturer and renovation specialist - delivering both ready-made and bespoke concepts for fashion retailers, globally.

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

T: +44 20 7381 1447 E: sales@adelrootstein.co.uk W: www.rootstein.com/ S. @rootstein_

slatwall

Specialist Stockist of Aluminium Extrusions and Mild Steel Fittings for the shopfitting industry.

Extensive stock held of: *Slotted uprights *Aluminium slatwall *Perimeter Sections *Corner sections *Design and bespoke service.

T: 01273 582241 E: sales@diasystems.co.uk W: www.diagroup.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/DesignsinAlumin

VM TOOLS AND TRAINING

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

93

Q&A

DR DOROTHY MAXWELL As part of The Retail Exchange podcast series, business journalist and broadcaster Declan Curry sat down with Dr Dorothy Maxwell, head of sustainability at House of Fraser, to discuss the retailer’s new sustainable store at Rushden Lakes in Northamptonshire.

DC. Big news from House of Fraser is that you’ve opened a new store — your first in years. Tell us more about it.

DM. T his story is very special because it is our first official sustainable store; it’s certified to a sustainable building standard called BREAM, and basically that means from its energy efficiency it has a very low carbon footprint. It’s also situated in a nature reserve, so we work very hard to bring the nature in and make sure we protect that site, and it has a whole range of other features that make it low impact on the environment.

DC. How do you have a thriving viable retail space with all the logistics that surround it, sitting comfortably with bird migration and nature doing its thing?

DM. T his is an experiment but we — and all of those who’ve been involved in the planning of Rushden Lakes, and indeed all the other tenants who are at Rushden Lakes — have been designing this concept for many years and planning this, and one of the key features in making it work is that you have an organisation like the Wildlife Trust based there permanently to ensure protection but also to engage people.

The other thing is the way the site is designed, only certain parts are accessible to people who visit the site; some are just completely off-limits, and as a partner of the Wildlife Trust we have great plans as we come into the Autumn to use hi-tech binoculars and things like nesting bird cams.

DC It also means that you need to have a bit of a re-think about

what goes in the store, what are the elements of the store, what

is needed to make a store work?

DM. That’s true and for this store, for me, it really is the unique

aspect of it. Given that it’s in a nature reserve, we worked

very hard to bring that natural aspect inside the store as

well. We have amazing internal features and the key one

is a living wall two storeys high. So it’s 2,000 local plants and

it makes up the whole central atrium of our store. Where you

usually have digital screens and advertising and so forth, we

have these wonderful local species. And above that, we have

an art installation by Cecilia Smith, an RSPB award-winning

artist, and she has this amazing installation of birds in flight

that sits above the living wall. It’s a wonderful aesthetic that

brings this natural aspect into the store and is a key feature.

this store highly energy efficient. It has a carbon footprint that’s about 50 per cent less than any other store in our estate. We’ve made it zero waste to landfill. We’ve used low impact materials in everything from the floors to the packaging materials.

DC. Do customers say they want you to demonstrate sustainability?

DM. I t’s a great question and the answer is, absolutely. We’ve asked our customers this question many times and eight out of 10 of them tell us that sustainability informs where they shop, what they spend their money on and that they are expecting us to have good environmental and ethical performance.

DC. How did you become head of sustainability?

DM. I am qualified as an environmental scientist working about 20 years in sustainability in different parts of the world, and I’ve worked with other consumer brands and retailers. I came to be at House of Fraser primarily because I love fashion and I know and truly believe that fashion can be transformed and retail can be transformed into a more sustainable business model, and I’m very passionate about that. Another thing that interests me about House of Fraser, they have two Royal Warrants and I’m very honoured to have been nominated to be His Royal Highness’ Ambassador on Responsible Business for London.

DC. What’s the next achievement you’d like to write on your CV? DM. W ell, I really do love the job that I do. I think we have a lot of work ahead of us at House of Fraser so I think that will be a focus of my work, and particularly being an Ambassador for the Prince of Wales, that’s something that I really would like to make sure that we unlock some improvements in areas that he’s interested in — and there are many around things like sustainable cotton and sustainable fashion. So I think that will be a very important focus for me for the next two years.

DC. Have you been able to tempt him to visit Rushton Lakes?

DC. For you, I imagine, it’s a showcase of what sustainable retail

should look like in the future?

DM. T hat’s correct and the biodiversity aspects we’ve been talking about there, they’re a natural feature of it, but sitting behind all that are the more harder engineering aspects that make

94

DM. N o, but here and now, I’m putting the invitation out there! I think he would love it, this wonderful, beautiful nature reserve.

Yes, wildlife needs modern retail!

To listen to the full interview, visit www.theretailexchange.co.uk

“Sometimes you need to take the bull by the horns... ....and Get S# t DONE.” i

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