\u00A1Hola Colombia!

By Jennifer Ashton

For years, Colombia was “off the list” when it came to international travel. Luckily, this South American charmer is enjoying a revival and becoming a must-see destination for sunseekers, culture cravers and outdoors enthusiasts.

I grew up with two Colombian men: Juan Valdez, the silent coffee farmer of countless TV commercials, and Pablo Escobar, the notorious cocaine kingpin who single-handedly managed to turn off the tourism tap in Colombia. But at last Colombia is off the front pages and welcoming more visitors in many decades.

Part of the appeal is the sheer diversity. Sun-soaked beaches and snow-capped Andean mountains, fertile plains and verdant jungles, funky towns and contemporary cities all make for an undeniably varied vacation.

WOMAN SELLING FRUITS IN CARTAGENA

It’s tough to decide what to see and what to leave out in a country about as big as Ontario. With our goal of meshing seaside with urban, and a dash of country – and based on the fact that the combined Spanish language skills of my husband and I can just about rustle up a beer – we got lucky when our travel agent recommended the perfect hosted tour.

OLD CITY OF CARTAGENA

It combined three nights in the high-altitude capital Bogotá with two nights each in coffee country and in the classic Caribbean resort town of Cartagena. At each airport, we were met by a smiling local host who gave us a sightseeing tour, provided a day of free time, and escorted us to the airport for our next flight.

The week started in the capital Bogotá: part European chic and part Latin American bustle. We stayed in the Usaquén neighbourhood, a mix of residential and small businesses, cozy restaurants, and a busy street market on Sundays when the roads are closed to traffic.

USAQUÉN NEIGHBOURHOOD

It was wonderful to have our local host, Jurgen, with us. In one day, we took in the major, unmissable sights including the cable car to Monserrate for a view of this sprawling city. He shepherded us through the noisy chaos of the vast central market, with its hills of vegetables and colourful flowers.

We visited the famed Gold Museum with pre-Hispanic items of glittering workmanship, even gathering a bit of a crowd around us to listen to Jurgen’s excellent commentary. And it was great fun to stroll through La Candelaria, a bohemian and historic neighbourhood becoming famous for its graffiti.

CABLE CAR TO MONSERRATE

Next stop: Pereira in the heart of coffee country, about an hour’s flight away. Coffee is big business in Colombia, where growing – and drinking it – is taken seriously. During our bumpy drive in a comfy new SUV to the Cafe La Morelia coffee plantation, our chatty host, Christian, explained that in these lush, pristine mountains, cool temperatures and just-right soil combine to make some of the finest beans in the world. At the plantation, we learned how coffee is grown, harvested, roasted, brewed, and enjoyed.

COLOMBIAN COFFEE FARMER

Best of all was our home for two nights: Hacienda San José. With its broad wooden verandahs, nooks brimming with antiques and an all-around Zorro vibe, you feel as though you have time-travelled back to 1800s Colombia. The rain teemed outside, and I stretched out on the bed to immerse myself in One Hundred Years of Solitude by Colombian writer Gabriel García Márquez. It was perfect.

In many ways, we saved the best for last: Colombia’s legendary oceanfront resort city, Cartagena. With the contrast of Miami-beach style skyscrapers just a half-kilometre away, Cartagena’s charm rests in its walled city which dates back to the 1500s. This is no bit of history fossilized for the tourist: it’s a working town where you’ll likely see a briefcase-toting businessman or a gaggle of uniformed schoolkids, but with a traditional touch of horsedrawn carriages ferrying visitors along cobblestone streets.

CARTAGENA SKYLINE AT SUNSET

A great way to get your bearings is to take a walk along the city wall, accessible by several staircases and so wide they could host a street party. Time it for a sunset stroll and you’ll be rewarded by stunning views over the sea. The end, no doubt, to another memorable day in Colombia.