Foodfinds

Salsa dance

La Fonda de Don Juan

4385 Neil Road, 284-2950

Anchoring a well-worn strip mall in southeast Reno, La Fonda de Don Juan is a Mexican restaurant adorned with Mesoamerican reliefs and bold colors. It’s also a Latin dance club. Oh, and there’s a sushi bar, because why not? We thought the side room was a banquet or buffet space; no signage indicated sushi was available and it wasn’t on the menu. I doubt you’ll find another dance club serving fajitas and California rolls side by side. Or maybe that’s a new trend? Our first impression upon entry was, “Wow, this place is really dead at 6 p.m. on a weeknight.” Ours was only one of three tables served in the time we were there. By way of full disclosure, we visited on a different night and were met by a completely empty room, not even a server in sight. From what I’ve heard, they do a brisk business on Friday and Saturday dance nights, so that must be how they’re keeping the lights on. These days, I dance only at weddings when properly anesthetized, so let’s focus on the food. Warm, lightly salted, exceptionally thin and crispy tortilla chips were served with a chunky mediumhot salsa cruda, a smoother and hotter salsa picante, and a mildlyseasoned serving of frijoles refritos con queso. Nothing better than some good bean and cheese dip paired with hot salsas to get things started. While deciding on entrées, we ordered a plate of flautitas ($6.99) and two-for-one Margaritas ($7). The Margaritas were served in schooners over ice with no mention of the frozen tourist variety, just the way the tequila gods intended. If I want a Slushee, I’ll go to a

convenience store. Serving as perfect mate to our refreshing by beverages, small fried rolls of corn Todd South tortilla stuffed with a choice of chicken or beef—I suggest ordering both—were hot-and-crispy good on their own. Add a dip of spicy sauce and you’ve got something that is sure to satisfy. Despite a menu with a dizzying array of intriguing options, my wife settled on chicken fajitas and was not disappointed ($14.99). The sizzling, steaming strips of grilled onion, chili pepper and meat were served with warm corn tortillas, fresh guacamole and salsa. The presentation and flavor of this Tex-Mex favorite was pretty exceptional. In hindsight, I wish I’d ordered the same thing. I love chiles relleno and often order them at new places hoping to find something special. I like plenty of cheese, but should still be able to taste the poblano pepper. I appreciate a rich sauce, but I don’t want it to drown the crispy, fried coating I’m looking for. Sadly, the version served with my two item combination plate ($9.99) was drowned in a thick, pasty tomato sauce that didn’t deliver anything worthwhile. I’ve encountered this style before and have been just as nonplussed by the lack of crispy exterior and cheese that is barely melted. Luckily, the carne asada taco, rice, refried beans and housemade guacamole on the plate were all pretty tasty. Great seasoning on the beef, and the salsa taquera was full of zip. Next time I’ll skip the stuffed pepper disappointment and order something that better complements the meal. Our hostess—and as it turns out, co-owner—wore many hats, acting as server, bartender, and quite possibly chef (she disappeared into the kitchen more than once). Though we declined to order dessert, she brought a small slice of complimentary flan with the check and insisted we must try it. It was about midrange in taste and texture as far as flan goes, but was made sweeter by the sentiment it represented. Ω

Chicken fajitas sizzle at Reno's La Fonda de Don Juan.

la Fonda de Don Juan is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Photo/Alliso N You Ng

Gift certificates to local merchants for up to 50% off merchants for up to 50% off Gift certificates to local

www.newsreview.com

RN&R Wednesdays

FREE Winter Slide Series

January 14th at 7pm Featuring Jeff Lock

“My years behind the lens” And Special Guest Mark Hammon “Glacier National Parks” Raffle Proceeds to Benefit Nevada Land Trust

ASIAN THAI FINEST

Healthy Asian Dishes!

SPECIALIZING IN NORTHERN THAI AND OTHER FINE ASIAN CUISINES / DELICACIES DAILY SPECIALS: DAILY SPECIALS: ONE ENTREE WITH ALL YOU CAN EAT SOUP, SALAD, DRINK LUNCH $799 • DINNER $999

HAPPY HOUR 4PM - 6PM • ½ OFF BEER, WINE & APPETIZERS

ORDER ONLINE @ ASIANACUISINE.COM • 775-432-1390 • 1565 S. VIRGINIA ST. • SPORTS WEST PLAZA

Think Free

all you can eat sushi all the time

775.589.2067 highest quality & fresh fish daily / take-out orders welcome / full bar with hot & cold sake 195 highway 50., stateline 1/2 mile north of the casinos Open 7 Days a Week / Monday - Saturday 11:30am - 9:30pm / Sunday 11:30am - 9:00pm sushipiertahoe.com

all you can eat sushi all the time highest quality & fresh fish daily / take-out orders welcome / full bar with hot & cold sake Open 7 Days a Week / Monday - Saturday 11:30am - 9:30pm / Sunday 11:30am - 9:00pm 775.589.2067 195 highway 50., stateline 1/2 mile north of the casinos sushipiertahoe.com all you can eat sushi all the time highest quality & fresh fish daily / take-out orders welcome / full bar with hot & cold sake highest quality & fresh fi sh daily, take-out Open 7 Days a Week / Monday - Saturday 11:30am - 9:30pm / Sunday 11:30am - 9:00pm orders welcome, full bar with hot & cold sake

open 7 days a week at 11:00am Last Seating: Mon - Sat 9:30pm & Sun 9:00pm

1507 So. Virginia St. - Midtown, Reno - 775.825.5225

775.589.2067 195 highway 50., stateline 1/2 mile north of the casinos sushipiertahoe.com

THAT’S HOW WE ROLL