New Orleans Magazine December 2015

DECEMBER 2015

WYES presents “A Salute to ‘Downton Abbey’”

myneworleans.com $4.95

DECEMBER 2015 / VOLUME 50 / NUMBER 3 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Morgan Packard Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Editor Liz Scott Monaghan Food Edit­or Dale Curry Dining Edit­or Jay Forman Wine and Spirits Edit­or Tim McNally Restaurant Reporter Robert Peyton Home Editor Bonnie Warren web Editor Kelly Massicot Staff Writer Melanie Warner Spencer Interns Lani Griffiths SALES MANAGER Kate Sanders (504) 830-7216 / Kate@MyNewOrleans.com Senior Account Executives Jonée Daigle Ferrand, Lisa Picone Love Account Executives Sarah Daigle, Brittany Gilbert

Production Manager Staci McCarty Production Designers Monique DiPietro, Antoine Passelac, Ali Sullivan traffic coordinator Jessica DeBold Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive VICE PRESIDENT Errol Laborde Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND EVENTS Cheryl Lemoine Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Denise Dean SUBSCRIPTIONS Sara Kelemencky SUBSCRIPTIONS Assistant Mallary Matherne WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Beth Arroyo Utterback Managing Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek

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New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380.

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The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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DECEMBER 2015 / myneworleans.com

contents Willa Jean

68 FEATURES

IN EVERY ISSUE

ON THE COVER

56

Best of Dining

12

INSIDE

Choice picks of the restaurant scene

By Jay Forman, Tim McNally and Robert Peyton

“Christmas Bubbles”

72

Looking for Order

A writer’s tale of working tables

By Chris Rose

Our annual Best of Dining feature includes more than 15 restaurants and personalities for your viewing – and eating and imbibing – pleasure. Learn more about our Restaurant of the Year (pictured on our cover) and other places you should visit starting on pg. 56.

13 letters 18 speaking out

Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 20

JULIA STREET Questions and answers about our city

143 Try This

“Rocking It”

144 STREETCAR

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“One More Song”

Photographed by Marianna Massey

contents

36

50

80

THE BEAT

LOCAL COLOR

THE MENU

24

MARQUEE

40

me again

80

table talk

Entertainment calendar

“Dealing With Panhandlers”

“Charcuterie: Cut and taste”

26

PERSONA

42

MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS

82 restaurant insider

Cynthia Lee-Sheng: Incoming Jefferson Parish Councilwoman At-Large

“Santa’s Cause”

Biz

Joie d’Eve

Coutelier NOLA, Tchoupitoulas Beer Garden & Palace Café

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44

“A Bitter Resident”

84

FOOD

“Starting A Business; Need Cash?”

“Having Your Own Reveillon”

30

education

86

LAST CALL

“Rose Drill-Peterson: Lessons from behind the scenes”

“Tobago Santa”

32

HEALTHBEAT

88

DINING GUIDE

The latest news in health from New Orleans and beyond

50

JAZZ LIFE

“Remembering Sydney Byrd”

34

crime fighting

“Book ’Em: Readings from the beat”

52

HOME

36

CHRONICLES

“Home for Christmas: Religious art and a chapel enrich the Canizaro residence”

“Follow That Thread”

46

IN TUNE

“Psychedelic Soul”

48

Read & Spin A look at the latest albums and books

DIAL 12 D1 As “Downton Abbey” begins its final season in January 2016, WYES-TV will present programs and a series of events celebrating the highest-rated drama in PBS history. Watch clips from previous seasons and see tantalizing previews of season six in “A Salute to ‘Downton Abbey.’” For all upcoming “Downton Abbey” events, visit wyes.org.

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DECEMBER 2015 / myneworleans.com

inside

Christmas Bubbles

M

y father was always very conservative in his appearance, except for one morning one day each year.

That was when he helped out at the annual brunch put on by the St. Dominic’s Knights of Columbus in Lakeview.

The event was always on a Sunday before Christmas. Organized by a Knight with relentless energy and even more personality, Peter Company, the event’s purpose was to raise money to provide Christmas dinner for the homeless at Ozanam Inn. Compagno would get area restaurants to donate brunchtype food – egg dishes, hams and pastries. Tickets were a very reasonable $5 and they went fast, particularly when the crowd from the 11 a.m. Mass entered the building. Knights and their wives worked as servers stationed at long tables in the KC hall.

My father dealt with the booze. His job was to serve the champagne and at that he was relentless – walking among those who were dining, eyeing their plastic cups for a shortage of bubbles. If he spotted an insufficiently filled vessel he would strike, quickly topping it off with champagne, stopping only to let the bubbles fizz and than adding more. It was a bountiful chaser to the sip of altar wine served at Communion.

His prized accouterment for the occasion was what made him so different on that one morning. Someone had given him a battery-operated bow tie that blinked He reveled with that tie as though he was Las Vegas showman. A person just doesn’t turn down champagne from a man with a blinking bow tie.

There was always enough money raised to help feed the homeless, and there were always enough hands to help. Each Christmas morning my father would start out by going to Ozanam Inn to help serve. He was raised poor and had spent a couple of Christmases in battlefields dodging Nazi bullets, so he knew what it was like to be wanting on Christmas morning.

He was always home in time to carve the turkey and to celebrate what he always said we his favorite day of the year.

Home was always the best dinner location of all.

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letters The Peace They Deserve Re: “The Peace They Deserve …: Perspectives from the Coroner’s Office,” Crime Fighting column by Allen Johnson, Jr. November 2015 issue.

I’m a fan of Dr. Rouse’s, and I appreciate the eloquence of his words as he “spoke for the dead.” I understand, too, that the people who drowned had no idea where the water was coming from. Those of us who lived through it, though, know that most deaths, and most of the destruction, resulted from the failure of the flood protection system designed by the Corps of Engineers. That’s neither a small point nor an opinion, and it should have been mentioned somewhere in the story.

Linda Kocher New Orleans Editor’s Response: In our August issue Speaking Out editorial (“Katrina: In Fairness to the Feds”) we make the argument that the Corps’ failure to build a proper levee is partially due to local authority’s lack of oversight and failure to lobby for something better. If the federal government is to be totally blamed for the levee breaking, then it should at least be praised for financing the recovery, hardly any of which was paid by locals. Your point, nevertheless, is well taken.

Lawyers List Clarifications Re: 2015 Top Lawyers, November 2015 issue. The following three listings, as provided

by Professional Research Services, appeared incorrectly. See clarifications below.

Joe Marino Criminal Attorney and Non-White Collar Marino Criminal Law, LLC 501 Derbigny St. Gretna, LA 70053 362-0666 *Was listed incorrectly under “Bankruptcy”

Benjamin B. Saunders Railroad Law Davis & Saunders, PLC 400 Mariners Plaza Drive, Suite 401 Mandeville, LA 70448 (985) 612-3070 *Was listed incorrectly under “Administrative/ Regulatory Law” Suzanne Haik Terrell Land Use and Zoning Law Hangartner Rydberg and Terrell, LLC 701 Poydras St., Suite 310 New Orleans, LA 70139 522-5690 *Was listed incorrectly as practicing in Metairie myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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on the web

Events Calendar Right on the homepage of MyNewOrleans.com is our daily events calendar. Our calendar is user-friendly in both access and submitting your own events. Do you have an upcoming event for your business? Or maybe you want to see what’s going on this weekend? Look no further than the MyNewOrleans.com events calendar.

The Editor’s Room Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde spearheads award-winning blog “The Editor’s Room.”

Laborde tackles issues and stories surrounding New Orleans and the state of Louisiana. Politics, upcoming events, civil issues and many more subjects headline the weekly blog. See “The Editor’s Room” every Monday on MyNewOrleans.com.

Tops of the Town

2016

Each year, New Orleans Magazine looks for your vote for the Tops of the Town. Categories range from favorite poor boy to favorite local dive bar and you pick the best! Save the date for our annual Tops of the Town party presented by Northwestern Mutual of Louisiana! This year, our party will be on Wed., Feb. 24 at Generation’s Hall. Be on the lookout for more information and a way to scoop up your ticket at MyNewOrleans.com/Events.

facebook.com/NewOrleansMagazine | twitter.com/neworleansmag | pinterest.com/neworleansmag 14

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DECEMBER 2015 / myneworleans.com

meet our sales team

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215 Colleen@myneworleans.com

Kate Sanders Sales Manager (504) 830-7216 Kate@myneworleans.com

Jonee Daigle-Ferrand Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7257 Jonee@myneworleans.com

Lisa Picone Love Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7263 Lisa@myneworleans.com

Sarah Favret Daigle Account Executive (504) 830-7220 SarahD@myneworleans.com

Brittany Gilbert Account Executive (504) 830-7298 BrittanyG@myneworleans.com

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DECEMBER 2015 / myneworleans.com

SPEAKING OUT

The Encroachment of Presidential Elections

W

hat happens when two major elections, each set for a separate year, collide in the same year? If ever there is a Big Bang, Louisiana will be hearing it.

These two elections (one for Governor; the other for President) have been held without once causing conflict with the other; the actual voting dates, after all, were in Novembers a year apart. This year, however, we saw the beginning of what is likely a new trend.

Case in point: Tues., Nov. 10. On that night there was a statewide-televised debate between the two runoff gubernatorial candidates. On the same evening there was a nationally televised debate between the Republican hopefuls for President. It never used to happen that the quest for the Presidency clashed with the chase for the Louisiana Governor’s Office.

In days of yore, voters heard very little about the Presidential election until early in election year. Usually the New Hampshire primary was

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the clarion call, followed soon by the Iowa caucus. “Oh, this is election year,” voters would realize. “I wonder who is running?”

This year, however, there were party debates far in advance of New Hampshire; which, by the time it happens, might be diminished by voter fatigue and will still be seven months before the actual election.

A major reason why so much attention is being paid to the Presidential balloting is cable TV. Because of cable, we are exposed to talking heads analyzing the news every day throughout the year. The heads need something to talk about and elections provide good fodder. Campaigns are the sports of hard news, providing winners and losers, and speculation about who will be which. Political gab helps fill those long, dreary summer days when, this year at least, not even hurricanes provided much competition for attention.

Meanwhile, back in Louisiana the show

went on. The issues were important, but there was not the star power of national candidates. Nor was there the sense of power. When speaking of the Presidency, practically everything is possible. When speaking of a Governorship – well, there are limits.

Presidential election encroachment is not necessarily a bad thing; it does democratize the process by giving voters ample occasions to analyze the contenders. It is a far cry from old days when political bosses would handpick candidates, sometime at the last minute during political conventions. We just hope that in future years the federal campaigns do not totally trump the state elections for voter interest.

Who knows, maybe one day a Louisiana Governor will become President. n

AN ORIGINAL ©MIKE LUCKOVICH CARTOON FOR NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE

JULIA STREET /

WITH POYDRAS THE PARROT

TH E PUR S UIT TO AN S W E R E T E RNA L Q U E S TION S

Dear Julia, A relative sent me this photo of my greatgrandmother. Can you tell me when J. Frazier Photographer was in operation on Royal Street in New Orleans? The clothes she’s wearing seem to be of the late 1800s.

If I can know when it was, I may be able to figure out if this is really her; I restore old photos as a hobby and would want to be sure. The photo is one of the thick cardboard type.

Beverly A. Hall Luling Joseph Frazier’s photographic studio operated at its 111 Royal St. location for only about six years. Your photo was taken no

earlier than 1875 and no later than 1881.

Unfortunately, the picture is unidentified so, unless your family has other images that resemble the subject in this photograph, you may just have to trust that it depicts your great-grandmother and not just a sad-looking stranger.

Dear Julia, With the current topic of removing monuments, including Jefferson Davis, in the news, it reminded me of information I found years ago in The Story of Algiers, 1718-1896 by Wm. H. Seymour, 1971. On pages 96, 97 and 99 there was a reprint of “A Historical Home – Written in 1889.” It stated that in Tunis-

burg, below Algiers, was the ruins of an old fashioned mansion wherein W. B. Howell, father-in-law of Jefferson Davis, resided when he was a Naval Officer of the Customs at the Port of New Orleans. Davis bought the home from his relative on Jan. 3, 1853, and would visit from time to time from Mississippi. But the property was seized by the United States authorities after the occupation of New Orleans.

It was sold under the confiscation act for a nominal sum by Cuthbert Bullitt, then United States Marshall, in May 1865. The buyer was Joseph Cazaubon, then a French citizen and my immigrant ancestor.

In September 1872, Jefferson Davis and his wife Varina Howell renounced for due consideration to Cazaubon any future claim to the property. Cazaubon lived there with his family until his death in 1899.

By that time, a modern street grid divided the property. Some of his children can be found in the 1900, 1910 (and beyond) censuses on the same property then named Newton, Diana, Odeon and Orleans streets located downriver of the U.S. Navy Yard. I have never been able to find a photograph or other type of image of this home and I’m hoping you and Poydras will be more successful. I don’t suppose Poydras spends much time hanging out with the pigeons on any of these monuments.

Gayle Cazaubon Buckley Meraux

Win a restaurant gift certificate

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Here is a chance to eat, drink and have your curiosity satiated all at once. Send Julia a question. If we use it, you’ll be eligible for a monthly drawing for a tour and Creole breakfast for two at Degas House or a Jazz Brunch for two at The Court of Two Sisters. To take part, send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@MyNewOrleans.com. This month’s winners are: Gayle Cazaubon Buckley, Meraux, Louisiana; and John Magnon, Fairhope, Alabama.

DECEMBER 2015 / myneworleans.com

photo courtesy of louisiana division/city archives, new orleans public library

Gayle, Poydras doesn’t like pigeons. He complains that they take all the good spots on statues.

We didn’t find an image of the Howell-Davis home, which Seymour indicated was in ruins when he wrote about it in 1889. There is, however, more to the story and, unfortunately, it shows your immigrant ancestor’s ownership lasted until Jefferson Davis’s death in 1889, not his own demise in 1899.

It should be noted, however, that Cazaubon still held other property in the vicinity. If you still have your 1971 facsimile reprint of Seymour’s 1896 The Story of Algiers, read page 11, which explains that Davis’ renunciation applied only to himself and not to his heirs.

Following Jefferson Davis’ death in 1889, his widow and daughters sought to have the Howell home returned to them. William H. Seymour represented the Davis heirs in their successful 1892 lawsuit.

Four years later, Seymour would recount some of the property’s colorful history in his pamphlet The Story of Algiers, 1718-1896.

He remained interested in the house and, in April 1902, presented before the Louisiana Historical Society a paper about “The DavisHowell House at Tunisburg.”

At the time of that writing, the house was in ruins. I have been unable to determine when it was demolished, but it has not survived to the present day.

Dear Julia and Poydras, I have some old memories of a couple of buildings or houses built by an ancestor, Arnaud Magnon. He was a carpenter and shipbuilder I believe.

I have heard that he built the first three-story building in the French Quarter, maybe

on or near St. Peter and Royal streets. Another I believe was built on Ursuline, near the river and was his home.

Are the above statements true? Are the buildings still there?

John Magnon Fairhope, AL Arnaud Magnon, who died in 1821 at the age of 80, was a shipbuilder and owned property in the Vieux Carré, but he neither owned nor is credited with building the Pedesclaux-Le Monnier House at 636-642 Royal St. that came to be known as the “First Skyscraper.” In 1795, Pierre Pedesclaux hired architect Barthelemy Lafon to design a multi-story home at that location. The owner had some literally lofty ideas but lacked the money to carry them out. The property went to sheriff sale in 1811, where Dr. Yves Rene Le Monnier and Francois Granschamps purchased it. Soon after Le Monnier’s purchase, architects Latour and Laclotte added a fourth floor to what had previously been a threestory structure.

Magnon’s ownership of a townhouse that was built for him and still stands at 618622 Ursulines St. is certain.

In 1819, Arnaud Magnon paid architect Gurlie and Guillot $15,000 to design the two-story building for him.

At the time Magnon hired the architects, he was 78 years old – a very advanced age that was more than double the average life expectancy for that era. Because of Magnon’s age and the fact that he passed away less than two years later, it seems likely he may have been in frail health when his home was erected.

It seems unlikely the elderly shipbuilder played a physically active role in constructing his residence. n

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE BEAT MARQUEE / PERSONA / BIZ / EDUCATION / HEALTH / CRIME FIGHTING / CHRONICLES

“Some people are very comfortable as a public figure – they’re maybe even attracted to politics for that reason – and I’m very uncomfortable that way. But I deal with that side so I can get my hands on the issues. So I really still feel like I’m a worker bee on the inside, and sort of do the public thing because it’s a necessary part of my job.”

PERSONA PG. 26

GREG MILES PHOTOGRAPH

THE BEAT / MARQUEE

OUR TOP PICKS FOR DECEMBER EVENTS

david j. l’hoste PHOTO

BY LAUREN LABORDE

Nutcracker Season

Stompers’ Christmas

Fun Home(coming)

The Nutcracker is a holiday tradition, and there are multiple occasions to see it in the city. Kicking off Nutcracker season is The New Orleans Ballet Association, who stages its production at Tulane’s Dixon Hall for two performances Dec. 9. Information, NOBAdance.com Marking the first dance performance at the Orpheum since its reopening, the New Orleans Ballet Theatre stages a production Dec. 18-19. Information, NewOrleansBalletTheatre.com The JPAS Symphony Orchestra backs a performance of the ballet at JPAS’ new performing arts center in Metairie on Dec. 19-20. Information, Jpas.org The touring Moscow Ballet hits the Saenger Theatre on Dec. 26. Information, SaengerNOLA.com Want to see ballet but sick of Tchaikovsky? Marigny Opera House’s resident ballet company performs its “Christmas Concerto” Dec. 10-13. The ballet is set to music by Arcangelo Corelli and other Baroque masters and choreographed by Maritza Mercado-Narcisse, Nikki Hefko and Donna Crump Information, MarignyOperaHouse.Org

The Orpheum Theater is hosting a holiday party benefiting a beautifully restored historic theater. The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra’s two-day Orpheum Holiday Spectacular (Dec. 12-13) features guests expected (New Orleans Children’s Chorus Choir, Archdiocese of New Orleans Mass Gospel Choir) and unexpected (the 610 Stompers). Other guests include Roots of Music, Alexis Marceaux and conductor Ron Spigelman.

Information, LPOMusic.com

Michael Cerveris – who owns a home in Tremé, collaborates with musician friends like Paul Sanchez, and is an avid Saints fan – also stars in the Broadway musical Fun Home, which won the Best Musical Tony and won Cerveris one for Best Actor in a Musical.

He is back in town for the Broadway at NOCCA concert series Dec. 14. Information, BroadwayNOLA.com

CALENDAR Through Jan. 2. Celebration in the Oaks, City Park. Information, NewOrleansCityPark.com

Dec. 12. Preservation Resource Center Holiday Home Tour, Garden District. Information, prcno.org

Dec. 1-20. The Winter’s Tale, NOMA’s Great Hall. Information, NOLAProject.com

Dec. 17. A John Waters Christmas: Holier & Dirtier, Civic Theater.

Information, CivicNOLA.com

Dec. 4-20. The Amazing Acro-Cats Meowy Catmas, The Theatre at St. Claude. Information, CircusCats.com

Dec. 18-27. NOLA ChristmasFest, Ernest N. Morial Convention Center. Information, NOLAChristmasFest.com

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SPOTLIGHT

Capturing the Images

PhotoNOLA director Jennifer Shaw talks about the festival’s 10th anniversary

P

hotoNOLA has a choose-your-own-adventure feel. For the photography fan, the annual festival is a feast of shows at galleries, museums and alternative locations around the city and lectures from artists in the field. But there’s also a path for mid-career photographers who want to work on their craft that includes portfolio review sessions and workshops. The New Orleans Photo Alliance, formed soon after Hurricane Katrina, hosts this annual volunteerrun festival, which this year is celebrating its 10th anniversary. PhotoNOLA director Jennifer Shaw talked to us about the festival, and how photography is still the “redheaded stepchild” of the art world.

Dec. 20. Caroling in Jackson Square. Information, FrenchQuarter.com Dec. 22. NOCCA and Daniel Price Memorial Fund’s Home for the Holidays, House of Blues. Information, NOCCA.com Dec. 23. Harry Shearer and Judith Owen’s: Christmas Without Tears (Does This Tree Make Me Look Fat?), Le Petit Théâtre. Information, LePetitTheatre.com

Craig Mulcahy PHOTOGRAPH

How did the festival start? In the dark days after Katrina, Don Marshall [of the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Foundation] called photographers together, encouraged them to form a nonprofit, or a craft guild, to band together to help each other out. Out of that, photographers formed the New Orleans Photo Alliance, and one of my dreams for the organization was to have a photography festival. New Orleans is a great town, people love to come visit, there’s great art and photography here – why don’t we just make a festival? Compared to what it is now, the first festival was a homegrown, mellow affair.

Shows were at artists’ studios, art markets. Now we bring in keynote speakers, have portfolio reviews, workshops with major photography stars.

I really see it as almost parallel tracks in PhotoNOLA. One is very public, open to everyone – you can pop into to any gallery or lecture series; we’re trying to get the general public excited and interested. But also there’s a sort of professional track for mid-career photographers with more intensive workshops and portfolio reviews.

What are you excited about for this year’s festival? Tina

Barney is the keynote speaker, which is exciting. She’s a wellrespected master in the field, and one of the first people to start exhibiting large-scale color work. The PhotoWALK is always completely amazing.

It’s at the Ogden, and all of the portfolio review participants

share their work; it’s 70 photographers showing their prints to people and answering questions. The Cig Harvey lecture Sunday I’m looking forward to; she’s an amazing photographer based in Maine. She’s a fine art, almost conceptual photographer who works with metaphor.

Very rich images, drawn from the real world: there’s a magical realism to them. There’s the Matt Black workshop – he’s a really incredible documentary photographer who really blew up this year. But it’s all good.

Shows run the gamut. We’re really democratic about it, accepting listings from anyone who wants to host a show, trying to do matchmaking with venues who don’t have artists or who want us to recommend artists.

Photography wasn’t originally respected as an art form. Do you think that’s still the case? I

do think of part of the impetus is starting was to continue to push photography as a worthy art form. New Orleans can be conservative on certain things, while photography is rocking out in New York galleries. It was kind of the redheaded stepchild in New Orleans. And thanks to cell phones, everyone is a photographer, and I’m not sure what that is doing in terms of scope of placement in art world – just creating more people wish they were getting paid? It’s strange.

There are all kinds of questions.

PhotoNOLA is Dec. 10-13 at various locations around New Orleans. Information, PhotoNOLA.org n

Dec. 24. Christmas Eve bonfire on the levee, Algiers Point.

Information, AlgiersBonfire.com Dec. 26-27. Friends of the Cabildo’s Creole Christmas, 1850 House Museum Store. Information, FriendsOfTheCabildo.com Dec. 31. DJ Soul Sister’s 13th annual New Year’s Eve Party, One Eyed Jacks. Information, OneEyedJacks.net

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE BEAT / PERSONA

scored a big win for the area in rezoning a long-disputed swath of land on Veterans Memorial Boulevard, stymied by disputes dating back to Lee-Sheng’s childhood, paving the way to a major tenant, Trader Joe’s, the first in the Greater New Orleans area (the store is scheduled to open “middle-to-fall 2016”). Lee-Sheng has dealt with many personal losses, however: she lost her father to cancer in 2007, and then almost two years ago lost her husband of a sudden heart failure. He was only 47. On the eve of her unopposed election to the at-large council seat, Lee-Sheng talked about summoning her father’s strength in her political and personal life.

Q: You were at first resistant to public

Cynthia Lee-Sheng Summoning strength; causing change

BY LAUREN LABORDE

D

espite being the daughter of the larger-than-life longtime Jefferson Parish Sheriff Harry Lee, Cynthia Lee-Sheng didn’t necessary inherit her father’s gregarious nature. Instead, the former CPA feels more comfortable as a behind-the-scenes “worker bee,” but life unexpectedly lead her into the public life.

As Councilwoman of Jefferson Parish’s District 5, she made headway in making Metairie more attractive to young people; Fat City, once a declining area with seedy strip-mall strip clubs, has public art and food truck festivals. Recently she

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life; what made you change your mind?

My dad was always in politics, and I think I picked up from that a love of public service.

I was scheduled to get my MBA and I took one class. It was a federal regulation class; I walked out and said I’m not getting my MBA, I’m getting my masters in public administration. I had this love of serving, but I always saw myself as being the worker bee in the background – never in front, ever. But I was one of those young people who would go to the monuments in DC and just sit under them and be so inspired by the words. It was very idealistic. I always said I’d join the service before running for public office. But when my dad died, I was sort of being asked to go here and there, or speak on his behalf, and I don’t know what happened but people started saying, “You should run for public office.” And the background was certainly there, but being so out in the public was never something I was really comfortable with.

Q: Do you like public life? Some people are

very comfortable as a public figure – they’re maybe even attracted to politics for that reason – and I’m very uncomfortable that way. But I deal with that side so I can get my hands on the issues. So I really still feel like I’m a worker bee on the inside, and sort of do the public thing because it’s a necessary part of my job.

And I think what was a life-changing thing for me was I saw my dad when he had leukemia for six months. You see someone at the end of their life, and he was so strong. It GREG MILES photograph

Occupation: Incoming Jefferson Parish Councilwoman At-Large Age: 48 Born/raised: Metairie Education: Master of Public Administration, George Washington University; Bachelor of Business Administration, Loyola University; CPA Family member names: Children Gavin (15) and Miranda (13) Favorite movie: Lost in Translation Favorite TV show: “That changes frequently, but now I’m in to ‘Luther.’”

Favorite hobby: Volleyball playing, coaching and spectating Favorite restaurant: “No way; I have too many friends who own restaurants.”

Favorite food: “Salt and pepper seafood; you can order it at some Chinese restaurants.” Favorite books: The Remains of the Day by Kazuo Ishiguro and The Baron in the Trees

by Italo Calvino Favorite vacation spot: “London.

I took my children last Christmas for sort of a healing trip, so it has a special place in my heart.”

was breathtaking to me. If I put myself in that position, I would probably feel scared or angry. He just showed nothing but strength in his voice, the way he handled everything, and it knocked my socks off.

After that, I thought my dad hung the moon. So when it came to running for public office, before I might have been so nervous, but if I could see my dad do that, I can run a hard campaign and I can lose and move onto something else and never look back. So

I think it gave me that kind of courage.

My husband’s death is the same way. You learn how dark and low you can be in life.

My dad had lived a full life, and I certainly grieved him.

It’s a different experience when someone’s taken at the prime of their life and they’re not expecting it. You get very low. I’m on the grief journey and I’ve made friends with other widows, and I think of us as warriors. I think of us as women warriors living in the world trying to raise our kids because we’ve known the darkest places. In time you learn there’s a strength you get – and it’s not a strength you would wish on anybody – but you do develop it. I don’t sweat the small stuff anymore. I keep my eye on the big things, so it’s helped me in other aspects of my life, but it’s definitely been a journey.

Q: Do you see public

service in the future for your children? It’s hard because … you don’t know that until you see what life kind of serves you and you go with it. I’ve lived a life like that where I didn’t have it planned out, and I just kind of went with my instincts as it came. And I would want them to have that kind of life, to be open to everything and just see what happens, and don’t just set this path for yourself at a young age.

Be open to traveling a lot and meeting new people and having new experiences, and if you follow that it will lead you to a very exciting life. n

True confession I have no sense of direction and spend an embarrassing amount of time driving around in circles. myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE BEAT / BIZ

Starting a business; need cash?

Join the crowd

By Kathy Finn

T

he challenge of raising money to start a business is often a tough one, but new rules just issued by the Securities and Exchange Commission could make capital-raising easier while also opening new opportunities for investors to support worthy entrepreneurs.

The SEC on Oct. 30 adopted final rules to permit companies to offer and sell securities through the popular online method called crowdfunding.

This technique for funding all sorts of projects and charitable causes by inviting supporters to pledge contributions via the Internet has become increasingly common during the past several years. But many of the individuals and organizations that have received cash using such websites as Kickstarter and Indiegogo have put the money to work on small, personal

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projects or nonprofit ventures.

In 2012, the Obama Administration backed passage of the JOBS (Jumpstart Our Business Startups) Act, which among other things created a federal exemption under securities laws that would expand the use of crowdfunding to include the marketing of shares in budding companies.

In the past, the only SEC-approved way for a business to raise capital in a public marketplace required that an enterprise go through the lengthy and costly process of registering its securities – stocks or bonds – with the federal agency. Following approval and publication of the registration statement, the enterprise had to honor a “quiet period,” during which it could not discuss or promote its mission, before finally offering the securities for sale on a public exchange.

The cost and complexity of the process had the effect of limiting public stock offerings to large or medium-size enterprises that had substantial revenue and a lengthy financial history.

But the new SEC rules, which will go into effect at the end of January 2016, will exempt, with some conditions, qualifying entities from the onerous registration requirements that have largely been in effect since 1934.

“There is a great deal of enthusiasm in the marketplace for crowdfunding, and I believe these rules and proposed amendments provide smaller companies with innovative ways to raise capital and give investors the protections they need,” SEC chairwoman Mary Jo White said in releasing the regulations.

She noted that the rules also provide a process for registering web portals and online broker-dealers that businesses will have to use in order to offer their securities online.

While the crowdfunding rules could launch a new era in capital raising for small businesses and startups, they don’t “undo” the regulations that have long governed offerings by companies looking to raise tens of millions of dollars or more in a single sweep.

But for smaller enterprises that have traditionally had to beg, borrow and do everything short of stealing the money they need to get their business rolling, the changes could significantly Joseph Daniel Fiedler Illustration

Funding Basics Transactions under the new crowdfunding rules are subject to dollar limits on both issuer and investor.

The issuer may not sell more than $1 million worth of securities during a 12-month period.

Investments are limited to: 1) The greater of $2,000 or 5 percent of the lesser of the investor’s annual income or net worth, if either is less than $100,000; or 2) 10 percent of the lesser of annual income or net worth if both are above $100,000.

See sec.gov for more information expand their opportunities.

The final SEC rules limit the amount of money an issuer can raise in a crowdfunding campaign, and they do impose disclosure requirements on issuers, who must provide certain basic information about their business and the securities they are offering.

In addition, the rules establish certain restrictions on investors who wish to participate in a crowdfunding offering.

The investors will be subject to limits on how much they may invest, and they must meet minimal net worth requirements to become accredited investors under SEC rules.

But restrictions aside, there’s no question that the SEC is making capital much more accessible to entities that in the past would have faced a harder struggle for financing. And this loosening of the reins raises new questions, such as: Will crowdfunding prove to be a secure means of financing new enterprises,

or will it become a haven for shysters looking to take the money and run?

And what about the longrange viability of companies that legitimately raise money through crowdfunding? The easing of requirements won’t do anything to increase the likelihood that a young business will survive past the fiveyear time span within which startups generally fail.

Michael Johnson, managing director at longtime local venture capital firm Advantage Capital Partners, points out that while raising money can be difficult, it isn’t necessarily the biggest challenge a budding business will face as it seeks to become established.

“Entrepreneurs tend to need more than just capital,” Johnson says. “ Firms like ours work extensively with our portfolio companies, often providing insight, access and connections that can be quite valuable to them.”

He says that while crowdfunding may increase competition for companies that provide early-stage business funding, “there should still be a big role for professional venture capital firms and the experience and expertise they can provide to young companies.”

Watch for more debate over the extension of crowdfunding into the venture capital arena in months to come.

CORRECTION: The October Biz column incorrectly listed as winners all five finalists in Propeller’s 2015 Water Challenge competition.

The only winning enterprise was Wetland Resources LLC, a project of Gary Shaffer and Demetra Kandalepas. Finalists were: Advanced Berm Technologies (Don and Jon Adams); Greenman Dan Inc. (Dan Johnson); Magnolia Land Partners (Mark Bernstein); and Riverbottom Tech (John Tesvich). n

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE BEAT / EDUCATION

Rose Drill-Peterson

Lessons from behind the scenes

By Dawn Wilson

B

ehind every school board member, superintendent, principal and teacher are scores of staff ranging from cafeteria workers to dollar-makers who are rarely recognized by the public.

One of them is Rose Drill-Peterson, who recently retired for the second time.

She has spent most of her adult life working behind-the-scenes coordinating, planning and making the dollars flow for New Orleans schools.

With 46 years of educational experience, she’s still an upbeat, floralwearing, yoga practicing, education wonk who delights in talking schools.

Basically, she’s seen it all.

“There have been hills and valleys, and the valleys are the same,” Drill-

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Peterson says of nearly five decades of New Orleans school history.

Even though the past decade has been marked by upward momentum in student achievement and graduation rates, Drill-Peterson says that the challenges remain entrenched. Poverty remains the toughest challenge, she says, which leads to student absenteeism, resistance to learning and mental health issues.

She has been battling such issues for most of her adult life. And it all started with Carnival.

After graduating from Syracuse University in 1967, she taught social studies in Boston for a year. Fed up with freezing temperatures and a junk car with no heater, she decided to see Mardi Gras. Within the year, she was teaching in New Orleans. A few years later, she’d obtained a master’s degree from Tulane University and began developing curriculum in alternative schools that trained high school students in career development.

In 1976, she shifted from the classroom to the behind-the-scenes work of political lobbying, grant writing, public relations and various administrative positions, including

a stint as acting area superintendent.

Formative moments occurred when she was tagging along with the Orleans Parish School Board’s governmental liaison in Baton Rouge, intent upon learning the craft of lobbying the legislature in favor of New Orleans schools.

A peak moment occurred in 1980; the school board was trying to win voter support for an upcoming sales tax election, and DrillPeterson suggested that she ask then Gov. Dave Treen to endorse the tax.

“Right, you go do that,” Drill-Peterson remembers the Orleans Parish School Board’s then-information director answering.

Not recognizing the cynical tone of the approval, Drill-Peterson says she approached the governor and asked him to publicly endorse the tax. To her utter surprise the governor said, “Sure.”

“I was so dumbfounded and realized I did not know what to say next,” she says. ”I told him thanks and I would get back to him.”

The information director later admits that she thought asking Treen for an endorsement was a “preposterous idea,” because he Craig Mulcahy photograph

would certainly refuse. As it turned out, Drill-Peterson says that Gov. Treen endorsed tax proposal in an address to a teacher’s conference a few days later. The tax passed and she learned a valuable lesson.

“It taught me that even if you think something is absurd or an outlier, it is worth trying because sometimes it works,” she says.

During former Gov. Edwin Edwards’ administration, she learned the dangers of speaking too freely with politicians. Edwards, ever congenial, asked her thoughts on the Minimum Foundation Formula that the state uses to fund schools.

After she said it was unfair to urban schools, DrillPeterson says that he held up the state school budget for three days. She never figured out his scheme.

In that period, she also married Frank Peterson, now a retired Benjamin Franklin High School teacher. After raising three children, she obtained a Ph.D. from the University of New Orleans in educational leadership.

She pressed forward during motherhood to continue working against the steady decline of New Orleans’ public schools. During the time she worked for the OPSB, the system became known as one of the worst public school districts in the nation.

At one point, the federal government investigated the financial records. A valedictorian couldn’t pass the state’s exit exam to get a high school degree. Shortly before his death in 2013, former Superintendent Anthony Amato said in an interview for this column that at least one teacher asked a student to make payment for a good grade. A school board member went

to prison for corruption.

Drill-Peterson describes the former school boards that she worked under as “dysfunctional,” but she says there were many hardworking educators whose efforts were hampered by restrictive teacher’s union agreements and chronic lack of funding. She says that schools today are supported by a much-improved tax base and generous philanthropic gifts.

She retired the first time just weeks before Hurricane Katrina, but she rejoined the fray soon after the mud was scraped from her Esplanade Ridge home and electricity was restored.

She spent the final eight years of her career directing the Eastbank Collaborative of Charter Schools, a network of semi-autonomous charter schools that share support services such as finance, legal and public relations. Charter schools became the norm after Katrina and are roundly praised for saving public schooling in New Orleans.

Drill-Peterson says she saw many improvements in the delivery of education in the eight years she worked with charter organizations.

Test scores have improved and more students are eligible for the state’s TOPS scholarships for college. Even school-related violence has decreased, she says, because students are not gathering at RTA bus stops. Nowadays, with most students attending charters, they get to school on school-supervised buses.

“There are men and women who created their schools, in some cases, from almost nothing to quality schools,” Drill-Peterson says. “I am so proud of them. I am so happy to be part of their growth.” n

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE BEAT / HEALTHBEAT

LSU Health New Orleans is boasting new faculty innovations that have qualified for patents, grants or commercialization agreements, Among the creations are: • The development of a new method to treat drug-resistant viral infections.

• Fluoride-releasing compositions that can be included in fillings to reduce cavities.

• Neutralizing anti-HIV antibodies for the prevention and treatment of HIV infection.

• New methods to inhibit the formation and growth of new blood vessels to treat diseases that require a good blood supply.

• A compound to make an improved storage solution for corneal tissue prior to transplantation.

• A medical simulation system that provides a more realistic training method for doctors.

According to an announcement by LSU Health New Orleans, “These advances and provide the city with critical research to combat disease, as well as growth in the job market and continued economic success for the city of New Orleans.” LSU’s Health Sciences Center is one of the six schools that are part of the statewide LSU Health System.

In time for holiday shopping, parents and family members with children should be wary. HealthDay reported that paintball, Airlift and BB guns may cause severe life- or vision-threatening injuries in kids. This idea is based off of research presented at the American Academy of Pediatrics annual meeting. Most of the injuries were that of eye-related injuries. The report states that the researchers found in a study of 288 children, seven had injuries so severe it required surgical removal. Experts suggest children wear goggles while using non-powder guns and be closely supervised by an adult.

– Kelly Massicot 32

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THE BEAT / CRIME FIGHTING

Book ’Em Readings from the beat

By Allen Johnson Jr.

A

s 2015 drew to a close, I sought the recommended reading lists from a civil rights lawyer, a sheriff and a criminologist. All of their selections are non-fiction. Topics include: crime, race, police, leadership, Katrina and the ever-unfolding history of New Orleans.

Mary Howell, civil rights attorney

1. The Great New Orleans Kidnapping Case, by Michael A. Ross “It’s a fascinating account of the 19th century African-Creole New Orleans police detective John Baptiste Jourdain, who was assigned to investigate the high-profile kidnapping of an Irish child in New Orleans in 1870. A trial takes place in the complicated swirl of race, class and politics that dominated post-Civil War Reconstruction Louisiana. Jourdain was possibly the first African-American police detective in the United States. He served on the Metropolitan Police, the racially integrated New Orleans police force, which was attacked and basically annihilated by the White League at the Battle of Liberty Place in 1874, an event commemorated by a shameful public monument. We may be the only city in the country that has a

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monument erected to celebrate the massacre of police officers.”

2. Policing the Southern City: New Orleans, 1805-1889, by Dennis Rousey “For anybody who wants to know about policing in this city, this book is essential. I keep going back to it and every time find something new and valuable.”

3. Black Rage in New Orleans: Police Brutality and African-American Activism from World War II to Hurricane Katrina, by Leonard N. Moore “The book is based on published sources and provides a useful chronology of events involving African-Americans and the NOPD since World War II.” 4. Brothels, Depravity and Abandoned Women: Illegal Sex in Antebellum New Orleans,

by Judith Schafer “The book is an eye-opening account about the brutal sex trafficking of young women, many of them Irish immigrants, in 19th century New Orleans. There is no romanticism here about the sex trade, and the violence and hardship it engendered. It’s an extraordinary account of the hypocrisy of the law and society. Some of the wealthiest and most power-

ful people in town were enriched by this industry, including John McDonogh, who became a ‘millionaire slumlord.’ The author, a Tulane history professor, did amazing work, using police ledgers and court records.”

5. The Accidental City: Improvising New Orleans, by Lawrence N. Powell “At least in New Orleans we come by our corruption honestly. We were not founded by Quakers or Pilgrims or people seeking religious freedom, we were founded by pirates, gamblers, slave-traders and adventurers; violence and corruption have been identified with New Orleans from its inception. I have to say though, this book cheers me up; you realize, for all our problems, we shouldn’t even be here at all. So we need to remember to give thanks for all the good things that are here: the people, the food, the music, the culture – despite the tremendous odds.”

Sheriff Newell Normand, Jefferson Parish

On Mardi Gras 2015, a reporter spotted a book propped up on the front seat of a sheriff’s police cruiser. Its title: 1. Lincoln on Leadership: Executive Strategies for Tough Times, by Donald T. Phillips “This book examines the President’s leadership during the Civil War, how he motivated (or replaced) Union generals and other lessons learned that can be applied in a modern, complex world.”

Lincoln is one of five books on a required reading list for sheriff’s employees participating in a three-part leadership program. Begun in 2012, the training regimen also includes online instrucJoseph Daniel Fiedler illustration

tion and workshops, Sheriff’s spokesman Colonel John N. Fortunato says. All five books focus on leadership and management skills: 2. It’s Your Ship: Management Techniques from the Best Damn Ship in the Navy, by Capt. D. Michael Abrashoff A naval commander who transformed a ship from worst-to-first in the Pacific Fleet – using the same crew – imparts management techniques for business leaders.

It’s Your Ship and Lincoln On Leadership are required reading for JPSO’s Leadership I. A total of 900 employees have completed the course, Fortunato says; “Each individual officer at his or her own pace had to complete 14 modules online that concluded with an eight-hour workshop.”

3. It’s Our Ship: The NoNonsense Guide to Leadership,

by D. Michael Abrashoff More leadership tips from the can-do navy commander.

4. Start With Why: How Great Leaders Inspire Everyone to Take Action, by Simon Sinek A best-selling motivation book with a glowing vision of job satisfaction.

Start With Why and It’s Our Ship are required reading for JPSO’s Leadership II program, begun in 2014. Approximately 400 officers had completed Leadership II training by October.

5. Emotional Intelligence: Why It Can Matter More Than I.Q., by Daniel Goldman Authored by an international psychologist, Emotional Intelligence argues that I.Q isn’t the only barometer of individual ability. Required reading for JPSO Leadership III trainees.

Heidi Unter, Ph.D., criminologist

1. The Empire of Sin: A Story of Sex, Jazz, Murder and the Battle for Modern New Orleans,

by Gary Krist “A fascinating and dramatic history of the Storyville era.”

2. Nine Lives: Mystery, Magic, Death and Life in New Orleans, by Dan Baum A story of a city as told through the lives of nine diverse New Orleanians.

3. Frenchmen, Desire, Good Children: And Other Streets of New Orleans!, by John Churchill Chase Every NOPD patrol officer must know the street names in his or her district. “This book is a funny history of New Orleans that tells how our streets got their unusual names – and more.”

4. Five Days at Memorial: Life and Death at a Storm-Ravaged Hospital, by Sheri Fink “It’s a moving book about circumstances, choices and consequences, during Hurricane Katrina and its aftermath.” [Then-state Attorney General Charles Foti considered the hospital a homicide scene. – A.J.] 5. Shake the Devil Off: A True Story of the Murder that Rocked New Orleans, by Ethan Brown “I lived near where this murder occurred and the murderer delivered groceries to my home, so it really did disturb my world.”

Writer’s choice: For a wide and somewhat wonky spectrum of views on the future of policing after massive protests of police killings in Ferguson and other United States cities, get the Final report on the President’s Task Force on 21st Century Policing (May, 2015). Published by the U.S. Department of Justice, the report includes testimony submitted by Jefferson Parish Sheriff Newell Normand, New Orleans Independent Police Monitor Susan Hutson and former Mayor Marc Morial, now president of the National Urban League. n

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE BEAT / Chronicles

Heather Rankin

Follow That Thread It’s “sew” New Orleans

BY CAROLYN KOLB

“M

aybe the sewing gene skips generations,” muses Heather Rankin, owner and teacher at the Sew Fabulous Sewing School at 8723 Oak St. (SewFabulousNola.com).

“A lot of kids who come to my summer sewing camps are enrolled by their grandmothers, and for my regular classes I’m getting the moms in their 30s and they’re saying ‘I never wanted to sew before, but I do now.’”

Perhaps it’s the popular television dressmaking series “Project Runway” (or the younger version, “Threads,” where teenaged New Orleanian Grayson Gold’s talent was showcased). Or, maybe it’s New Orleans burgeoning fashion industry, including the style-extravaganza Fashion Week grabbing headlines each spring.

For whatever reason, more New Orleanians are putting needle to fabric these days, and some have been at it for years.

First step for most of them is sewing class.

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Back in 1904, Kingsley House was offering sewing classes to its patrons, and schools offered sewing in Home Economics courses. In ’05, The Picayune advertised Madame Clarks’ Sewing School “teaching the S. T. Taylor system” of dressmaking.

The popular course from the 1960s to the ’90s was the “Bishop Method of Clothing Construction” invented by a Pennsylvania home economics teacher. Lydia Trice and Dottie Kostmayer were well known Uptown teachers; Audrey Childress was a popular Metairie instructor.

Sewing classes popped up at D. H. Holmes and Maison Blanche department stores, at Krauss, with a much admired fabrics department, and Halpern’s (an ancestor of Promenade Fine Fabrics on St. Charles Avenue).

Today sewing classes are offered at Hancock Fabrics in Metairie (current instructor Paula Hardin was also a Bishop Method teacher) and at Jo-Ann Fabrics in Metairie, where Barbara Hale teaches (she also teaches pupils to knit and crochet: “If it has to do with the hands I pretty much teach it,” she says).

One difficulty today is buying fabric. As Rankin says, “If it’s something special, I’ll go to Promenade – that’s for absolutely beautiful fabric.” Hancock’s and Jo-Ann fabric stores have a wide range of choices and offer affordable material. Rankin, like many other sewing teachers, makes clothes for herself “I made a lot of little summer dresses this year.”

Designer and sewing teacher Carolina Gallop will check out thrift stores for fabric sources.

On the staff of All Souls Episcopal Church at 5500 St. Claude Ave. in the lower 9th Ward, Gallop has offered sewing classes there. She learned pattern making and sewing at a community college when she lived in

California and will be taking part in a fashion show at the Blue Nile on Frenchmen Street. (“It’s 1970s themed,” she says.)

There are unlimited possibilities for sewing enjoyment.

Marilyn Asher Kline retired last year and took a sewing class.

As a class project, she made a burp-pad for the new baby of a nephew in Australia. The gift was a grand success, and she formed a company Baby Burpies (BabyBurpiesNola.com). “Sewing is a form of expression for me – it takes you away,” she says.

Other home seamstresses take on projects and do their own alterations. “I’ve done lots of curtains,” admits Pat Burke, who learned to sew in high school.

Her most ambitious project?

“My mother bought some beautiful silk and she asked me to make her a dress,” Burke says. “I asked what the fabric cost, but she wouldn’t tell me ’til I finished.”

Luckily, the dress was a grand success. “Had I known in advance, I never would have done it!”

Burke put her sewing skills to work when she had a business selling items decorated with grosgrain ribbons woven into patterns. “I saw a shirt decorated with ribbons and I made one for myself,” she says. Ultimately, she employed several workers to complete orders.

Pat McIntyre, one of three girls, grew up sewing. “I helped with hems and buttons,” McIntyre says. She made her first skirt when she was 10. She quilts (“I’ve even made quilts for my great grandchildren I don’t have yet!”), makes and decorates pillows, presently owns five sewing machines and also knits.

McIntyre’s handiwork comes out at holiday time. “Last year my tree had nothing on it but ornaments I made. My kids said, ‘That’s corny.’ And I said ‘Too bad!’”

People with needles are sharp! n cheryl gerber photograph

LOCAL COLOR ME AGAIN / MODINE GUNCH / JOIE D’EVE / in tune / READ+SPIN / JAZZ LIFE / HOME

“Pokey Lafarge and his group are really unlike anything around right now; they’re a tribute to the era of the old jazz record. ...

The overall impact is one not of simple nostalgia but of a modern recreation of seminal moments in American music.”

in tune pg. 46

Joshua Black Wilkins photograph

LOCAL COLOR / ME AGAIN

Dealing With Panhandlers Anything helps

BY CHRIS ROSE

T

hey work busy intersections like they’re greeting lines, approaching each driver with eye contact and a warm smile, a beckoning nod through the car window.

Others just stand as if frozen into place, staring intensely ahead as if trying to see past whatever events in life brought them to this point.

They stand on every street corner in town with their entire lives pared down to one or two phrases scrawled with a Sharpie on the back of a pizza box.

Homeless. Will work. Hungry. Veteran. 50 cents. Anything helps. Need beer. Thank you. God Bless.

Always that last one, God Bless. That tells people that you’re safe, you’re good, you’re just unlucky – but you’re right with the Lord.

People want to know that.

This is what panhandling looks like in the 21st century, a begging sidewalk pantomime; no more “Mister, can you spare a dime.” In street lingo it’s called Flying the Sign. And they are, literally, the signs of our time – soggy wedges of cardboard with messages intended to be creative, poignant,

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provocative, heart-rending, inspirational or absurd enough to part you from your money.

They tell stories of tough love and hard luck, the story of a fall from grace the same length of a Tweet, a personal missive as an appeal to the presumed charitable nature of the American motorist.

This is Panhandling 2.0.

With its accommodating winter temperatures, libertine social attitudes and institutionally detached police force, New Orleans – long a destination for the professional vagrant class – is now overrun with sign flyers. Our famously wide and grassy neutral grounds are swarmed every day with ostensibly down-on-their-luck folks counting on the kindness of strangers.

At many intersections now, you can see the path they have worn down in the grass as they work motorists stuck at red lights.

“It’s a whole new industry,” says Stacy Horn Koch, the former Director of Homeless Policy for the city of New Orleans and now in the same position for the city of Atlanta. “We ought to tax them!”

Koch is no fan of the practice. “It makes the public really angry,” she says. “Because every time they stop at a corner, someone is banging on their window asking for money. It creates a total lack of empathy and sympathy for the homeless.”

The “real” homeless, that is. Because not all homeless people are panhandlers. And not all panhandlers are homeless. And it’s evident to anyone who travels the same commute every day that many sign flyers approach the activity meticulously, showing up at the same place at the same time every day, working the same skills for the same number of hours every day, weather permitting – and sometimes even not.

It is the same thing, day after day, week after week: a thankless, humiliating rut. If that sounds familiar, you’re correct: For some folks, Flying the Sign is their job.

Personally, I’m no fan of the trade either. For one, I don’t like being guilted or conned, particularly when I’m just trying to get on with my day, sometimes with less money than some of these folks have in their pockets.

And that leads to a second objection to the practice, which gets back to what Koch said above: It creates a pervasive sense of skepticism among motorists who are beleaguered by sign flyers as the navigate their way through their errands, chores and obligations. There are so many of them – in all shapes, sizes and appearances – that it’s impossible to know who really needs help and who’s just grifting.

To try and answer that for myself, I spoke with about a dozen sign flyers recently to ask what got them to this point, standing on a street corner asking strangers for money through closed windows.

Each of their stories merit their own column here, but they generally seem to break down into three categories: “Drew” is here from Portland with his wife, both late 20-somethings. All their IDs and money were stolen from a bus. They are just trying to stay afloat while they figure out their next move.

“Apple Man,” is clearly mentally ill. He works his corner until he has enough money for weed and beer and then quits, gets high and wakes up the next day to do it again.

And “Jesse” is the third category of sign flyer. Neither homeless, mentally ill nor even desperate, she recently quit her job as a waitress in the French Quarter.

“I hate people,” she told me. “I couldn’t stand working in that restaurant anymore. So I started Flying the Sign and found out I can make as much – or more – money doing this than I did at the restaurant. In half the time.” She paused and added, “Plus, I don’t have to deal with asshole customers.”

All of her signs had “God Bless” written across the bottom. n jason raish illustration

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LOCAL COLOR / MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS

Santa’s Cause How to save a beard

BY MODINE GUNCH

M

y grandson Go-Cup is 6, and he’s getting suspicious about Santa Claus.

Last year he come up with the brilliant idea to duct-tape the doors shut on Christmas Eve. He figured Santa would come down the chimney, leave the presents and when he tried to get out, he would make so much noise GoCup would wake up and hear him.

But when Go-Cup woke up it was Christmas morning, and he forgot about the tape. Nobody noticed it until they were about to rush off to church.

And then, when they tried to pull it off, it didn’t do the paint job no good.

Go-Cup’s sister Lollipop, who’s 10, informed him he was a idiot, because everybody knows Santa Claus puts his finger upside his

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nose and up the chimney he goes.

The thing is, he’s the last believer in the family and we ain’t ready to give up Santa Claus ourselves. Luckily, we got a Santa Claus handy: my brotherin-law Leech.

You know how they say everybody has a talent? Leech is what you call a late bloomer. He has turned out to be a professional Santa Claus. He gets dropped out of helicopters at shopping centers and everything.

He got a belly that shakes like a bowlful of Jell-O (a big bowl – my mother-in-law Ms. Larda keeps letting out his red velvet suit).

Little kids love him. They ain’t heard his jokes yet, and they’re happy to pull his finger.

But what makes him worldclass is his beard. He grows it as

careful as some people grow African violets.

It is white and soft and fluffy as cotton. Not scraggly, like the beards them duck people on TV have hanging off their faces. Leech’s beard took Best of Show three times running in the NSBC (National Santa Beard Completion) in Austin.

He says it takes a lot of energy to grow a good beard, so he has to spend a lot of time in his recliner, letting nature take its course.

Every January he shaves it off, then allows it to grow back nice and full. In August, he starts applying beard strengthening-and-whitening gel. (NSBC rules allow this, but no hydrogen peroxide or other artificial aids.)

During Christmastime he’s usually so busy we never see him. So Go-Cup don’t know what he does.

And it so happens that this year Leech has his final gig on Christmas Eve at a polo farm up on the Northshore, near Gumdrop’s house. Perfect.

On Christmas Eve we’ll all go up to Gumdrop’s like usual. After the polo farm gig, Leech will turn up with a sack of toys.

I go up there early in the day to help her get ready.

When we got the last present wrapped and the last ornament hung, we both rush into the bathroom; I shower while she Nairs the hair off her legs; then we switch paces and we waltz out looking gorgeous – just in time.

The plan is: When Leech is close, he’ll text Gumdrop. She will say, “Is that sleigh bells out front?” We will all run out front while Leech climbs in the bathroom window. In the back. When we come inside he’ll be ho-ho-hoing in the living room.

It works like a charm. Except when we get inside, Santa is wearing a ski mask. It is quite a shock. He says “Ho ho ho! It was a little breezy in the sleigh tonight.” And he smells funny.

Still and all, Go-Cup acts thrilled.

After Santa leaves and the kids are in bed, Gumdrop and myself try to figure it out. That smell is so familiar. Then it hits me. Nair. The hair remover.

And there, on the sink, is the container of Nair. Just where Gumdrop left it.

Next day we get the story. Leech looked in the mirror and thought his beard looked a little peaked, so he rubbed what he thought was the mousse he found on the sink. It smelled bad, so he rinsed it out. And off came his beard. Thank God there was a ski mask in the hall closet.

Later, I ask Go-Cup what he thought about Santa. He looks at his pile of gifts, he looks at me and he smirks.

“Santa Claus is cool,” he says.

I ain’t got no stupid grandkids. n

LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION

LOCAL COLOR / JOIE D’EVE

A Bitter Resident When tempers – and water – boil

BY EVE CRAWFORD PEYTON

I

was not a very good hostess when my friends came to visit from Chicago two months ago.

I mean, I picked them up at the airport, drank a Pimm’s Cup with them at Napoleon House, window-shopped with them on Royal Street and made sure they were well fed. I pointed them in the right direction for decent live music and treated them to beignets and café au lait before they left.

But I was doing all of this without any real passion for New Orleans, to be perfectly honest. Between the crime and the boil water order and the state of the school system and the rising cost of freaking everything, I just wasn’t in the mood to be an ambassador for the city.

My rotten attitude started two nights before they came to town, the night of Wed., Sept. 23. It was a typical school night Chez Crawford-Peyton. Ruby was doing homework. Georgia was watching unboxing videos, a bizarre genre that holds some weird power over the toddler mind, on YouTube. I had just taken the recycling out to the curb – and I was scared the entire time because I’m always scared, because this is New Orleans and innocent people get shot for no good reason all the time – and when I came back inside, Ruby had colored part of Georgia’s hair pink with hair chalk.

“Oh, I was going to ask you if I could do this,” she said sweetly, “but you were outside, so I just did it. Can I color the other side of her hair blue since we have to wash it now anyway? Thanks.”

I sighed. “Yes, go ahead,” I said. “You’re about to take a bath anyway. And next time, actually ask me and wait for an answer.”

I started getting the kids’ pajamas out and checked the dishwasher’s progress.

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“Five minutes until bathtime, kiddos,” I said.

My phone buzzed against the kitchen countertop, and I went to pick it up.

“A boil water advisory has been issued for entire east bank of New Orleans,” I read.

“Boil water for 1 minute before using.”

I said … well, I said a whole lot of things I probably shouldn’t have said in front of my kids.

Having no clean water is an inconvenience when you don’t have kids. But when you have kids – kids who need to be bathed because their hair is blue and pink, kids who can’t be trusted to not drink bathwater – having no clean water is an enormous problem. I gave Georgia a sort of effective sponge bath with some Kentwood, and we brushed our teeth with more of the same, and it wasn’t the end of the world, I know, but we just did this in July.

This isn’t funny anymore, New Orleans.

It was one thing to put up with this city’s dysfunction when it was a cheap place to live. But now, rents are through the roof, and of course buying isn’t much better given how much money we pay on homeowners insurance.

My car insurance is also ridiculously high, especially since I have never in my life had a speeding ticket and I haven’t had an at-fault accident since 1999.

And although it was the right choice, I’m no longer benefiting from the public school system here either,

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having pulled Ruby from a charter school for a variety of reasons.

So when my friends, who have a kid, said they were seriously considering moving here, I laughed.

“Don’t do it,” I said. “Crime is terrible, it’s insanely expensive, the schools are a mess and we have boil orders like every other month.”

“You just described Chicago, pretty much,” said my friend. “Except instead of boil orders, we have six months of temperatures below 0 degrees. But you can drink outside here, the music is better and you have Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest.”

“Oh,” I said. “Well, come on down then.”

It wasn’t like I suddenly felt better about everything.

I am still horrified and saddened by the crime here.

I am still frustrated about the frequent boil orders. I still curse like a sailor every time I hit a pothole. I am still a little shell-shocked every time I write a check for the mortgage or the summer power bill.

But when stacked against half-a-year of arctic temperatures, it doesn’t seem that bad, I guess.

My friends were sad to leave, and I was sad to see them go.

“I take it back,” I said. “You should move here after all.

We need more good people down here. Come on down.

Just remember you won’t ever really be able to drink the stupid water.”

“Don’t worry,” said my friend. “We’ll just drink Pimm’s Cups.” n

Excerpted from Eve Crawford Peyton’s blog, Joie d’Eve, which appears each Friday on MyNewOrleans.com.

jane sanders ILLUSTRATION

LOCAL COLOR / IN TUNE

Holiday Happenings

Seratones

Psychedelic Soul

With the arrival of the holiday season we also see the inevitable return of the holiday music show. This year there are a couple worth checking out. On Dec. 23, Judith Owen & Harry Shearer’s Holiday Sing-A-Long will be at Le Petite Théâtre for its 10th anniversary show. This is a true old-school variety show and a perfect way to roll into the holidays. If you’re looking for something a bit edgier, on the 17th John Waters will bring his Christmas show the Civic.

No matter your thoughts on the holidays, there’s a little something for everyone.

American Roots and more BY mike griffith

D

ecember starts with Nik Turner bringing his signature brand of space rock jazz improvisation to Siberia on the 3rd. In the late 1960s, Turner’s Hawkwind project blazed a trail for the art glam projects that would come after them.

Turner will be on sax, flute and vocals – expect the experience to be overwhelmingly surreal. Staying in the experimental vein, on Dec. 10, industrial rockers My Life With The Thrill Kill Kult will be at House of Blues. The band is touring on the excellent 2014 release Spooky Tricks. This is some of their best work in years, and the new songs seem to have revitalized their sound.

Also on Dec. 10 at Gasa Gasa, the excellent Shreveport based Seratones will bring their psychedelic soul to town. I really like what I’ve heard from this young group so far. Be sure to check them out.

If you’re looking for something a bit more in the American roots genre, two excellent groups from this scene will be through Tipitina’s this month. On Dec. 12 Pokey Lafarge and his band will do their

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swing, jazz and blues show. Lafarge and group are really unlike anything around right now; they’re a tribute to the era of the old jazz record. At first glance the band appear to be wearing costumes, but they’re more appropriately described as loving modern tributes to the fashions and styles of the eras the band members themselves worship. The overall impact is one not of simple nostalgia but of a modern recreation of these seminal moments in American music. Just a few nights later on the 16th, Memphis-based alt rock ensemble Lucero will be at Tips as well. Lucero have been stalwarts in the alt country scene since well before it was a fashionable place to be. Their style draws on everything from soul to punk and creates a sound that’s distinctly their own. They have recently released the record All A Man Should Do; look for the show to focus in on developing these new tracks.

If you want something a bit more alternative, on Dec. 14 Heather Woods Broderick will bring her particularly haunting

style of songwriting to 1638 Clio.

If you’re feeling a bit old school The (English) Beat will be at the Carver Theater on Dec. 19. The seminal British ska act is in the process of crowdfunding a new record.

Look for all of your favorites from the 1980s here.

Finally, if you want to end the year in style George Clinton & Parliament Funkadelic will be joined by DJ Soul Sister in hosting the Funky New Years Masquerade Ball at Tips for two nights (Dec. 29 and 30). You really can’t ask for a better way to end the year. Of course Galactic will be holding down Tips on the 31st, because those are the rules. n Note: Dates are subject to change.

Playlist of mentioned bands available at: bit.ly/InTune12-15.

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To contact Mike about music news, upcoming performances and recordings, email Mike@ MyNewOrleans.com or contact him through Twitter @Minima.

Chad Kamenshine photograph

Melissa Bonin

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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LOCAL COLOR / READ+SPIN

BLUES: It is hard to put a label on many musicians due to their extensive knowledge of the art. Louisiana native Bobby Rush is no exception. While most would probably consider him a blues artist, there are certainly traces of funk, soul and soft Southern rock in his music.

Nov. 27 marks the release of Chicken Heads: A 50-Year History of Bobby Rush, a re-release of over four hours of his previous work. Rush, now 81, is proving that age doesn’t always slow you down, and earlier this year he took home two awards at the 2015 Blues Music Awards for Best Male Blues Artist and the B.B. King Entertainer of the Year award. If you consider yourself a fan of Bobby Rush or just a fan of pure music with real meaning, this collection is certainly a must-have.

COOKBOOK: New Orleans writer, cook and “Louisiana Eats!” radio show host Poppy Tooker’s newest effort, Tujague’s Cookbook, offers up 100 recipes from the famed French Quarter institution and the stories behind each one. The 192 page collection features 70 color photos and focuses on New Orleans creole dishes, including trout meunière amandine, shrimp remoulade and bread pudding. No book on Tujague’s would be complete without cocktail recipes.

Sazaracs, Pimm’s Cups and Grasshoppers are all included, the latter of course having been created at Tujague’s.

PHOTOGRAPHY: In New Orleans: Life and Death in the Big Easy, photojournalist Cheryl Gerber trains her lens on the everyday life of the city’s inhabitants. Celebrations, change and a look at the ever-present imbalances in New Orleans are all included in the colorful and often emotional volume. The book also includes a handy glossary and an essay by New Orleans writer (and New Orleans Magazine columnist) Chris Rose.

Gerber’s work has appeared in this publication, The New York Times and The Associated Press, and the Press Club of New Orleans has honored her for both her news photography and labors on social issues.

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NONFICTION: The obituary is a time-honored art form and there are few who do it better than award-winning journalist John Pope. In Getting Off at Elysian Fields: Obituaries from the New Orleans Times-Picayune, Pope shares the best of the best, in a collection as vibrant as its city’s, gone but not forgotten former occupants.

Book review by Melanie Warner Spencer, CD reviews by Johnny Heatrock Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Melanie Spencer, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005.

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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LOCAL COLOR / JAZZ LIFE

Remembering Syndey Byrd Poetic realism of the lens

BY JASON BERRY

S

yndey Byrd, who died recently at 71, was one of the finest visual artists New Orleans ever produced. She moved here from Mississippi as a young woman, a visionary who treated the streets, costumes, churches and Carnival celebrations of people across society as her tabula rasa. She captured a priceless image of Fats Domino at Christmas, Mardi Gras Indians and rituals of the city’s soul. Her picture of maskers in costume at the Proteus Ball seems a bridge back to the Renaissance. I gave that photograph, framed, to two of my closest friends as gifts.

Byrd and I met in 1979. She did still work for a documentary I made with Jonathan Foose that dealt, in part, with Spiritual Churches in the Lower 9th Ward. She kept going to those churches long after the film was done; sometimes I went with her, other times I sat in her apartment on Royal Street and later the house she bought on Ursulines Avenue near Broad Street, gazing at the slides as she recounted the services or street parades – whatever

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Top: Neville Brothers. Bottom: The Funeral of Louis Nelson with Richard “King” Matthews & Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews.

New Orleans, 1990. All Photographed by Syndey Byrd. Courtesy of the Syndey Byrd Archive

she had been shooting.

Byrd was a colorist who used the lens in a style of poetic realism bathed in primary colors.

Michael P. Smith had a more distinguished career, and with no disrespect to his good memory, had Byrd possessed Smith’s business acumen, her obituary might have made the New York Times.

She dreamed of a major

book to capture the expanse of her work as an ethnographic image-maker. In the last two years, she was institutionalized with a severe form of Alzheimer’s. That imagined book, and others she should have done, never happened.

Her several exhibitions, including one at the New Orleans Museum of Art, were

syndey byrd photo courtesy of greg miles

well-reviewed. The Jazz & Heritage Festival hired her for many years to photograph festival acts and has done a short video tribute on its website.

But for a talent so huge, she died unsung.

Artists are self-employed and must be adept at business.

Byrd was too disorganized to manage her work. She would scrape together funds from friends or editors, fly to Europe or the Caribbean and come back broke with great new images. Most of her work is in thousands of slides.

In the 1980s she made several trips to Haiti, where she caught vistas of people in tropical forests, city streets ablaze with color and rivers where people bathe as if in a primeval world. “The Neon Tomb” is a cemetery scene from Haiti with a florescent bulb above the small mausoleum awash in deep mauve light. It is the best of her photographs among the five my wife and I have. I bought it one Christmas when Byrd called and begged me to come over. “Buy something, I’ll give you a great deal.” I bought two pictures and helped her get her over a hump, but left knowing the value of her works was worth more.

We often talked about Haiti; she really wanted to go back (before the country collapsed).

I told her to get a few curators and art scholars to write letters recommending her for a Fulbright Fellowship; she could live in Haiti for months, get paid and shoot enough for a book.

“Baby,” she said. “What’s a Fulbright?”

She never applied. Her vast collection is under consideration by an archive from her estate. Wherever her pictures end up, I hope The World of Syndey Byrd becomes the book she longed to see, and that her photographs will find a wider market. The world deserves them. n

Todd Mouton I thought of Byrd’s pictures of Cajun Carnival in reading Way Down In Louisiana, writer Todd Mouton’s new book on the grand sweep of Acadiana music influenced by Clifton Chenier.

Mouton profiles Buckwheat Zydeco, Sonny Landreth, Lil’ Buck Sinegal and a range of others as linked to Chenier, the accordionist and blues singer who exerts influence a generation after his funeral.

Mouton writes of Chenier “pulling cultural influences together to forge a music so unique and far-reaching that comparisons to Robert Johnson, Bob Marley and Muddy Waters only begin to illuminate his significance.”

Elegantly illustrated, Way Down in Louisiana belongs in every Christmas stocking for the over-15 set. myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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LOCAL COLOR / HOME

Left: The dramatic dining room is a study in grandeur with columns framing the large glass French doors that overlook the pool and front garden; interior designer Alexa Hampton designed the table and chairs, making the chairs larger and more comfortable than usual antique chairs. Above: Sue Ellen and Joseph “Joe” Canizaro in their Metairie Club Gardens home adorned for the Christmas holiday season.

BY BONNIE WARREN PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHERYL GERBER

Home For Christmas Religious art and a chapel enrich the Canizaro residence

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he Christmas season is a special time for Sue Ellen and Joseph “Joe” Canizaro.

Their Metairie Club Gardens home takes on a special glow with festive decorations, but it’s in their sacred chapel that the true meaning of Christmas is celebrated in a special way. “When we built our new home one of our first requests |

DECEMBER 2015 / myneworleans.com

Facing page: Top: The sun-filled living room is furnished with fine antiques and accessories, many which were selected from New Orleans antique shops; internationally acclaimed Alexa Hampton is credited with the interior design. Bottom, left: The grand staircase in the rotunda is further dramatized by the marble floor and majestic antique crystal chandelier. Bottom, right: Cherished Christmas decorations collected over the years adorn the tree in the family room.

to our architect was to design a chapel,” Joe says. “We wanted it to be at the core of our home in a sunny spot overlooking the fountain and garden.”

While the Canizaros’ home is an architectural and interior design gem that was featured on several pages of Architectural Digest magazine and on the cover of the book The Language of Interior Design

Facing page: Top, left: The broad loggia allows light to flood the house through a series of arched windows and French doors. Top, right: The 1708 painting by Sebastiano Ricci of St. Ignatius of Loyola, founder of the Society of Jesus (Jesuits), is entitled “Holy Family with St. Ignatius.”Bottom, left: Thomas Bruno, New Orleans sculptor and furniture maker, made the altar and benches for the chapel that’s at the core of the Canizaros’ home; a 17th century painting depicting the ascension of Christ is affixed to the ceiling. Bottom, right: The warm glow of Christmas is evident when the holiday lights come on at dusk.

Top: A treasured circa 1480 painting entitled “Adoration of Christ” by the famous Italian artist Sandro Botticelli has a place of honor over the fireplace in the library.

by Alexa Hampton, their interior designer, it’s also a warm and inviting home that’s often shared with nonprofit groups, such as a Longue Vue House and Gardens fundraising event and religious groups associated with their Catholic faith.

First-time visitors may marvel at the grandeur of the antiques and accessories, yet it’s the Canizaros’ collection of religious art that takes center stage in the home. “I began collecting in 1993 and today we have about 50 cataloged religious works of art,” Joe says as he conducts a personal tour of each room, explaining in great detail the title, history and information about each artist.

“Someday I hope all of the paintings will be part of a religious art gallery for the public to enjoy.”

Designed by New Orleans architect Peter M. Trapolin, AIA, and built by Michael A. LaForte Jr. of Vintage Construction Company of New Orleans, Inc., the house took four years to construct.

“Peter did an outstanding job designing our home, Michael was a great contractor and we can’t say enough good things about Alexa, who gave us everything we wanted in a formal, yet comfortable, home,” says Joe, the founder, chairman and CEO of Columbus Properties LP, a commercial real estate development company, president of First Trust Corporation that includes First Bank and Trust, and a well-known philanthropist.

“We are pleased that so many of the antiques and accessories in our home came from the great antique shops in New Orleans,” Sue Ellen says, and she also notes that it was local artisans who did the first-class job on the details throughout the house.

“This as an ideal home for us,” she says. The showplace home graces a tree-lined broad boulevard. “It is always a pleasure to share our home with family and friends. The dining room is one of my favorite spaces, and it’s a joy to entertain with intimate lunches and dinners.” Joe adds. “It is always good to come home to such pleasant surroundings and I am ever humble in appreciation for the blessing of having such a comfortable home.”

Sue Ellen and Joe concur that the Christmas season is their favorite time of the year to enjoy their home. The chapel’s handcrafted pews and altar were created by Thomas Bruno, a New Orleans sculptor and furniture maker. The scared art treasures make the chapel even more special at Christmastime,” Joe Canizaro says. n myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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best of dining p h oto g ra p h e d by m a r i a n n a m a ss e y p h oto g r a p h y ass i sta n t s co tt w i l l i a m s

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e pride ourselves in our restaurant coverage. Throughout the year our dining team is busy keeping pace with what is a very active culinary scene. For our December

issue, though, we like to sit around the fireplace (well, if we had one we would), look back at the past year and make our picks of the best and notable. The selections on these pages are totally the results of discussions between our food writers and editorial staff. Some were easy calls; some were closely contested; others were worthy of mention but in need of a category. (For the latter we tried to be creative adding our own ingredients as needed.) As in all rankings one could quibble about what is first and what is second. There is no argument though, that all those listed here are top-notch. The buffet is now open.

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-Lait

poisson fumé

Restaurant of the Year: Sac-a-Lait

M

eet Samantha and Cody Carroll. She prefers “Sam.” They are newcomers to New Orleans from just north of here; Sam is from Gonzales and Cody from Batchelor in Pointe Coupee Parish. They are young, in love, have a beautiful daughter, Malle, and are two amazingly talented people.

Together they’ve devoted themselves to their love for each other and Louisiana cuisine. They met while attending the Louisiana Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge, from which they graduated.

Together they created Hot Tails, a destination-restaurant in New Roads, and together they worked to begin a crawfish farming business in Cody’s hometown. And together they won the Louisiana

Seafood Cook-Off, a prestigious annual competition among chefs statewide, which had never before had two Kings, much less married to each other.

“We just always felt, in every step of our careers, that if we were truly going to prove how good we were, we had to be in New Orleans,” Cody notes without an ounce of smugness. They had an opportunity to acquire a spot on Annunciation Street in the Warehouse District. They knew it would work well for their concept.

The place had been the site of two previous restaurants, within a massive condominium and apartment building converted from a historic warehouse.

redfish throats

As a side note, the Sous Chef at Sac-aLait worked here at one of those nolonger restaurants, joined Cody and Sam in New Roads and now is back. You know how it is: In Louisiana and New Orleans no one ever really leaves.

The design of Sac-a-Lait – the layout of the kitchen, the interior highlights, even the furniture, like the bar and barstools – were all created entirely by them and their families. The place is rustic while at the same time very modern. This is a setting that could only be at home in Louisiana.

As for the food, well, that’s why the community is buzzing. Cody’s family is all about hunting and fishing. Sam’s family is all about creating excellent cuisine using local ingredients in their home kitchen.

These are families that were destined to be together without question.

Start with the Alligator and Mirliton, the Turtle Boudin Noir, the gumbo canard, the poisson fume or even chargrilled oysters from P&J. You can’t make a wrong move here. Move on to the snapper, grouper or best Gulf fish at the moment. Meat? Venison backstrap and sweetbreads should suit you, or a pork porterhouse. You might be more of a vegetable person; don’t worry, the freshest of seasonal offerings are at hand.

The wine list is solid but modest.

However, the beer offerings are evidence that Cody does like his beer. From all over the region, mostly from Louisiana, Cody brings in what he likes, and no doubt, you will like them, too. Cocktails also possess a local flair with the Damn Thistle, Jetty & The Rocks and Horse’s Ass, among many others. Maybe they ‘ll tell you who that last

drink was named for, maybe not.

There is something special, almost ethereal, about Sac-a-Lait. Not many places anywhere can imprint a local stamp on the décor, the cuisine, the beverages, even the staff and be equally successful on all fronts.

Yet, this isn’t a restaurant that beats you over the head with “the theme.”

It is all-natural, and every aspect of design and operation has been well thought through. Sam and Cody are not old, experienced restaurateurs; they’re young, energetic, starting a family and setting roots into a food-centric place that has beckoned to them and they heeded the sirens’ call.

They are going to be an important part of the culinary community for many years in our town. Welcome, Sam and Cody.

– Tim McNally

Sac-a-Lait, 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, Sac-a-LaitRestaurant.com

Chef of the Year: Alon Shaya

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lon Shaya made a name for himself when he opened Domenica in the Roosevelt Hotel in 2009, which proved a success right out of the gate. Then in ’11, tasting menus began popping up which seemed incongruous with the Italian focus of the restaurant. Pegged to Israeli and Jewish traditions – Passover, for example – they nevertheless proved very popular.

It was these specials that foreshadowed what was to come in ’15, when Shaya announced the opening of his eponymous restaurant on Magazine Street. The breakout success of both – the chef and the restaurant – are the reasons we named him Chef of the Year for 2015.

The common thread woven through all his restaurants is travel.

“Traveling is the reason that Shaya is open. It is the reason that Domenica is open,” Shaya says, citing his year-long professional immersion in Italy, which laid the foundation for Domenica. Similarly, a visit to Israel in 2011 reconnected him with his roots at a point in his career where he was well positioned for growth. “I hadn’t been there since ’03, and in those years between I had gone through so much personally and professionally that when I went back it was like seeing it all again for the first time,” he says about that trip.

Timing also plays a big role. Interest in Israeli cuisine is ascendant in other food-forward cities like New York, and the sudden availability of the restaurant space (which was formerly Dominique’s on Magazine) fit the theme like a glove. And with it, Shaya

also brought to New Orleans a cuisine that’s complex, healthy and relatively unexplored. All these proved to be the perfect precursors for its immediate success.

Most people are familiar enough with the Middle Eastern underpinnings of hummus and pita to cozy up to the menu, but the layering of the flavors, spices and influences that get overlaid atop are what make Shaya exciting and unique, as well as delicious.

“Israel is a country that is less than 70 years old,” Shaya points out.

“Prior to World War II you were only seeing food from the Middle East there. But today you see food from Russia, Greece, Morocco, Yemen, Tunisia, Spain and France, to name just a few.” With the immigration following the establishment of Israel came an influx of national cuisines and traditions. Mix in a couple of religious dietary restrictions and cultural cross-pollination over the course of the last three generations, and what you get is a multifaceted landscape of culinary possibility.

The best way to experience Shaya is to share. Start with a salatim board, an impressionistic array of pickled vegetables, salads and hummus dips united by the excelled fresh-baked pita that continuously emerges from the wood-burning oven. A traditional starting point, Shaya’s is dialed into the locavore scene by the use of regional produce – roasted okra, for example – and local ingredients – Progress Farm’s creamy yogurt is the base for his Labneh.

for the table sampler including baba ganoush, hummus, lutenitsa, tabouleh and ikra wood roasted cabbage

Shaya also has fun with his recipes, swapping out chicken for duck in his Matzo Ball Soup and rolling in Bulgarian-inspired fare like Borekas (pastry stuffed with feta, duqqa and oregano) in a nod to his grandmother. “My grandmother moved from Bulgaria to Israel in 1948, and now you can find borekas on street corners throughout Israel,” Shaya says. And while Shaya may be Israeli, it’s most certainly not entirely kosher, as evi-

denced by the Shrimp Shakshouka.

Esquire magazine recently voted Shaya as America’s Best Restaurant. This, plus his 2015 James Beard Award, has made this a destination not just for locals but for people all over the country.

So plan ahead for reservations and be sure to come hungry, because each experience here will likely make you hungry for more.

– Jay Forman

Shaya, 4213 Magazine St., 891-4213, ShayaRestaurant.com

Restaurateurs of the Year: Creole Cuisine Restaurant Concepts

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e could subtitle this family tale of success in the hospitality industry, “The little daiquiri shop that could.” Because that is where it all began – in Chalmette.

The Amari family came to New Orleans from Jordan over a period of about 10 years. Eldest son, Marviani, attended the University of New Orleans. He liked everything about the city, in particular the opportunities to own his own business. His younger brothers followed him in order of age, first Richy, then Zeid and finally Dad and Mom. By 2001, the family was together, according to Marv, “in one of the most welcoming and interesting cities in the world.” Opportunities to expand the daiquiri business came with investments and management in bars and restaurants. Hurricane Katrina sent them all

to Houston where as a family they: 1) agreed, going forward, to focus on acquiring and operating restaurants with bar services; and 2) without reservation, decided to return to New Orleans as soon as possible to participate in and contribute to the rebirth.

Along the way, Marv, the CEO, Richy, the CFO and Zeid, the COO, acquired new restaurants, all in the Vieux Carré.

They pledged to preserve the culture and the history. And they agreed that every restaurant under their care would be an individual effort, standing on its own, with its own identity, cuisine and profit plan.

They all also married New Orleans ladies, had New Orleans babies and created a lot of jobs in New Orleans.

Today, the 16 restaurants and bars range from that treasured daiquiri shop in Chalmette, still in operation, to the historic upscale dining destinations of Broussard’s, Bombay Club and Kingfish.

Coming on-stream very shortly is the American Bistro, formerly Houston’s in Metairie, the yet to be named reception center and wedding facility in the French Market that was Bella Luna Restaurant and most recently, Galvez, a new Canal Street installation, two suburban bars and an upscale but casual restaurant, currently in development.

“We have been blessed as a family and as members of this amazing community,” Zeid says. “We are humbled by how our businesses have been supported and favorably reviewed by diners, guests, critics, locals, visitors and special events hosts. Not a moment passes that we do not recognize the debt we owe New Orleans for the gracious acceptance of the Amari family.”

Creole Cuisine Restaurant Concepts includes: Broussard’s, Kingfish, The Bombay Club, Royal House Oyster Bar, Cafe Maspero, The Original Pierre Maspero’s, Bourbon Vieux, Bayou Burger & Sports Company, Chartres House, Le Bayou, Pier 424 Seafood Market, Daiquiri Paradise, and all of the Big Easy Daiquiri locations.

– Tim McNally

Creole Cuisine Restaurant Concepts, CreoleCuisine.com

Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year: Bourrée at Boucherie

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buffalo wings with cracklin

hef Nathanial Zimet and business partner James Denio first opened Boucherie as a brick-and-mortar extension of the food Zimet had been cooking in his food truck, Que Crawl. Recently, when the space at 1506 S. Carrollton Ave. became vacant, the pair decided to move into the slightly larger space. Not long thereafter, another space, this time at 1510 S. Carrollton Ave. became available, and the pair opened Bourrée at Boucherie, which in addition to the chicken wings and fresh-fruit daiquiris in which it specializes, also offers boudin, Natchitoches-style meat pies and an expanding list of other products.

Bourrée at Boucherie is a casual spot that feels as though it’s been in the location far longer than it has. It is, in other words, a great neighborhood restaurant. While neither Zimet nor Denio were born here, they’ve come to love the city and the Carrollton neighborhood where they got their start. It is safe to say the feeling is mutual, and we’re proud to name Bourrée at Boucherie Best Neighborhood Restaurant, 2015.

– Robert Peyton

Bourrée at Boucherie, 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040, BourreeNola.com

Italian Restaurant of the Year: Avo

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hanks to a recent buildout of the transitional space and the installation of a striking retractable roof, the owners of the building housing Avo have finally nailed the formula that makes this indoor/outdoor jewel of a space work yearround. But the heart of Avo is chef Nick Lama. With family roots extending back to the original St. Roch’s Market, Lama’s Italian menu is also progressive thanks to his time spent at Gautreau’s.

“I like to do simple, bright clean flavors. I don’t like overly complicated things,” Lama says. “I’m trying to blend traditional Italian with a bit of a modern mindset.”

His appetizer of charred octopus is a case in point, held fork-tender via sous vide but seared to order for pick up. It gets plated with grilled eggplant and (recently) cranberries for a seasonal twist. Fans of more traditional Italian fare would like his lasagna layered with beef short rib ragu. But few dishes can match the visual appeal of his braised pork shank, a Flintstone-esque tower of tender pork on the bone surrounded by herbed spaetzli and cider-braised cabbage.

– Jay Forman

Avo, 5908 Magazine St., 509-6550, RestaurantAvo.com

pork shank

frenchuletta, shrimp & artichoke soup, with a schooner

Honor Roll: Liuzza’s

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n a town that’s opening new restaurants at a dizzying pace and showing no signs of abating, there’s much comfort in knowing that the tradition of a true New Orleans neighborhood restaurant is alive, well and thriving.

Boston may have its "Cheers," but after the hit TV series there’s reason to doubt authenticity, while New Orleans has Liuzza’s.

Change has taken place to the city and the neighborhood since 1947, when Liuzza’s opened its doors, but within the walls that withstood the waters after Hurricane Katrina, little has changed.

Not the time-worn bar, not the beer signs, nor the stools and chairs that harken to the ’50s or before, nor the glass brick walls that let in a bit of light but not too much. At Liuzza’s it isn’t a matter of bending to the breezes of change that come to every establishment; it’s a matter of getting it right and then sticking with it.

Liuzza’s is doing what it started out to do: Provide for its neighbors solid, honest, delicious fare based on the family’s Creole and Italian heritage. Oh, and we probably should mention Liuzza’s

has always served the coldest mug of beer in New Orleans. That doesn’t hurt a restaurant’s reputation in a town that loves its suds.

Then there’s the Frenchuletta, a culinary blend of the cultures that define Liuzza’s. The sandwich, invented here and served only here, takes the ingredients of an Italian muffaletta and puts them within a French poor boy loaf. It is definitely a hit.

More cultural mash-ups include one of the truly classic andouille gumbos in town, lasagna like your mother should have made it, Italian-stuffed artichokes and fresh-cut French fries as well as freshly done onion rings. An amazing fried chicken is tough to resist, still served atop a slice of buttered white bread toast.

Count your blessings: The Mid-City neighborhood surrounding Liuzza’s is changing, and the city has repaved Bienville Street.

But changes in this part of town don’t come easy or often, nor should there be any changes to the neighborhood institution known for almost 70 years as Liuzza’s.

– Tim McNally

Liuzza’s, 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, Liuzzas.com 64

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Giving Back: Press Street Station

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ew Orleans Center for the Creative Arts has long been instrumental in providing pre-professional development for students in the creative arts. And now Press Street Station offers members of its culinary program an on-site proving ground for putting their skills to the test. And if the charm of its students, their food and their backstory doesn’t win you over, the gorgeously wrought space with its soaring, clean contemporary lines, natural light and custom millwork will help. Because the only thing better than digging into their Bywater Benedict (boudin patties over tasso-braised mustard greens topped with poached eggs and hollandaise) is knowing you do so for a good cause.

“They are high-level cooks for teenagers, I was impressed by what they can do,” says chef James Cullen of his young wards. “In addition to working in the front and the back, they also make a lot of the stuff that we sell at the marketplace, like the jellies and the jams.”

Strictly speaking, Press Street Station is a forprofit restaurant that’s part of the NOCCA Institute, whose profits flow back to NOCCA. In addition to their other duties, the students also help with special events and run the Boxcar, Press Street Garden’s food truck, every Saturday as their senior project. “They pick their menu, I order, they grab it, cook it and handle the rest,” Cullen says. Students also work alongside resident horticulturalist Marguerite Green in the garden one day a week. “From that they gain a much deeper understanding of where their product comes from.”

Since Cullen took over earlier in the year, he has steered a course for a more focused and regionally inspired menu than what was offered before.

Other brunch options include the Marigny Benedict topped with panko-breaded mirliton patties, poached eggs and hollandaise over kale. Sweet choices include Sweet Potato Brioche Pain Perdu with fruit compote and sweet and spicy pecans.

Keep your eye open for upcoming special theme dinners and cooking classes going into the winter months and your ears tuned to regular musical performances by students and alum.

– Jay Forman

bywater benedict

Press Street Station, 5 Press St., 249-5622, PressStreetStation.com

Southern Cuisine Restaurant of the Year: Brown Butter fried chicken & waffle sandwich

the restaurant he co-owns with chef Dayne Womax. “Plus we like to change things up as much as possible to keep things fresh for our kitchen and our guests.”

Examples of this can be found on Womax’s brunch menu, recently extended to include Saturdays. Here you will find creations like his Green Tomato and Crab Benny, a take on eggs Benedict featuring fried green tomatoes and lump crabmeat atop a cornmeal hoecake in lieu of the more traditional English muffin. Other dishes include his vinegar-braised beef short rib served with grits and peanut salad. Local art and a low-key vibe round out the appeal.

– Jay Forman

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estaurants serving southern cuisine have proliferated like kudzu in recent years. Yet many fall prey to overly precious reconsiderations or suffer from academically earnest navel gazing. Brown Butter deftly sidesteps this pitfall, focusing instead on approaching its dishes with a broad brush Bible Belt sensibility paired with increasingly refined technique.

“Our menu has definitely evolved since we opened,” Mike Simon says about

Brown Butter, 231 N. Carrollton Ave., Suite C, Mid-City, 609-3871, BrownButterRestaurant.com

Bakery & Beyond: Willa Jean

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he idea that eventually became Willa Jean started before Hurricane Katrina. Pastry chef Kelly Fields had been discussing opening a bakery with chef John Besh, but after Katrina she left town for a few years and it never came to fruition.

The idea didn’t go away, though, and when her colleague Lisa White came on board at Domenica and Pizza Domenica, things started happening. The two looked for a location, hoping for a spot that would recall the corner bakeries that were once ubiquitous in New Orleans.

When they saw the space at 611 O’Keefe Ave. in the South Market, and heard about the plans for the overall development, they were sold. What was conceived as a bakery, though, ended up being much more. In addition to

Willa Jean, 611 O’Keefe Ave., 509-7334, WillaJean.com

bread, pastries and baked goods, there’s a full savory menu, excellent coffee, beer, wine and cocktails.

Willa Jean is a great bakery, to be sure, but it’s a lot more, and that’s why we’re awarding it Bakery and Beyond 2015.

– Robert Peyton

cookies and milk

the Yvonne

Mixologist of the Year: Kent Westmoreland

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he Southern lilt of an accent is the first hint that Kent isn’t from here; he's from Charlotte, North Carolina. But there’s the unmistakable respectful tone of love whenever he speaks of New Orleans.

“I came here with a degree in Business Administration and a specialty in computer programming.” Kent waited tables at restaurants, working his way through the University of North Carolina at Charlotte. He liked the customer interaction. He reveled in assisting guests to find something on the menu they would really enjoy.

After graduation, Entergy hired him and brought him to New Orleans. He fit right in. And despite the fact that his family was not imbibers of alcoholic beverages, Kent liked what he was trying in his new hometown, renowned as much for cocktails as for cuisine.

He became so intrigued with the topic that he enrolled in bartending school. That didn’t satisfy his curiosity; it piqued it.

He was enthused about the new flavors in his life, jazzed by the combinations of ingredients and, the best part, he was able to enjoy interactions with his customers, learning from them as much as he shared. The computer side of Kent’s mind blended with the

creative side. His recall of hundreds of cocktail recipes is the more amazing because he also knows the precise measurements of all the ingredients.

“There is a reason a drink recipe calls for ¾-ounce. It’s all about balance, and the homework has been done,” he says. “I respect that a drink recipe states a specific ingredient and its quantity.”

Then there’s the creative joy Kent receives when he puts something together for the very first time, following experimentation.

Kent also has a dramatic side, a theatrical flair. He loves movies and books, particularly Ian Fleming’s James Bond. Kent even wrote a book, a mystery, Baronne Street, currently in print and available.

That was followed by the drink, Redemption on Baronne Street.

“I ask my guests what they like; what’s their ‘usual.’ Then I take what they tell me and suggest drinks that they likely have never enjoyed, or drinks that have been created here. In that way we can move folks from their usual gin and tonic to a craft cocktail. I guarantee they’ll like what we suggest, or we’ll just go back to where they’re comfortable.”

– Tim McNally

Cocktail Bar, Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000, WindsorCourtHotel.com/Cocktail-bar-windsor-court

coal grilled ribeye

Concept of the Year: Primitvio

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rimitivo bucks modern dining trends, and it isn’t accidental. The concept, as chef Jared Ralls, co-owner alongside chef Adolfo Garcia, described it to me, is “New American Hearth Cooking.” What that means in practice is that the restaurant is designed around a central open grill with multiple stations that allow for both rapid cooking over high heat and slower, roasting-style methods. The idea for it came to Ralls when his home oven broke, forcing him to rely on his charcoal grill for, among other things, baking.

Ralls sketched out the restaurant’s hearth to scale and provided the drawings to the engineers who manufactured it. It was a massive undertaking, not least because of the venting required to cook over live coals indoors.

Pretty much everything on the menu at Primitivo has at least one element that’s been touched by fire. It is far from molecular gastronomy, which doesn’t interest Ralls. The food is what the chefs, including Primitivo’s executive chef, Nick Martin, like to cook at home, and that’s reflected in many of the family-sized portions.

There is a 26-ounce rib-eye, for example, that comes with marrow bones and sweet potatoes; when they haven’t sold out, you can also order a half rack of smoked pork spare ribs with an apple BBQ sauce and smoked potato salad.

Smoke also turns up on the drum ceviche with watermelon and chile, and the coulotte steak that comes with a charred vegetable tzatziki sauce. My favorite item on the menu has got to be the tripe in a spicy tomato sauce topped with Grana Padano cheese and croutons.

Primitivo is a welcome addition to the stretch of Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard that also includes Purloo, Casa Borrega and, soon, the market and food emporium that was once called Jack & Jake’s. It is a restaurant that knows what it is, because it’s got a strong central idea, and that’s why we’re proud to name Primitivo the Concept of the Year, 2015.

– Robert Peyton

Primitivo, 1800 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 881-1775, PrimitivoNola.com

half chicken with turnips and leeks

Best New Presence: Chef Nina Compton

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hef Nina Compton came to New Orleans to compete on the Bravo television series “Top Chef” in 2013. Like many people who spend time here, she fell in love with the people, the architecture and the culture, and started planning a way to get back. What sets Compton apart, though, is how thoroughly she seems to understand what makes New Orleans special.

She related a story to me about coming to town for Jazz Fest one year, and how surprised she was that everyone she spoke to had recommendations first on what to eat and second on the music. After the fest, she attended a crawfish boil. It wasn’t so much the details of the story that impressed me; it was the smile that lit her face and the sparkle in her eyes as she told it.

When the opportunity came to open a restaurant in the Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery, she and her husband, Larry Miller, jumped.

She was drawn to the space, she says, because like a lot of New

Orleans it had some grit. “It’s not shiny,” is the way she described it, and that could also describe a lot of her food at Compère Lapin, her new restaurant.

Compton is originally from St. Lucia, a Caribbean island in the Lesser Antilles chain, and there are certainly aspects of her cooking that reflect her background – conch fritters and curried goat, for example. But the food at Compère Lapin goes farther. The goat curry is paired with plantain gnocchi, and a chicken preparation includes a breast roulade with leek ash. The roasted grouper with Parisienne potatoes is another standout.

The chef told me her goal is for the food to have the bold, deep flavors that New Orleans residents love, and so far her clientele have been a mix of locals and tourists. Not every new restaurant that opens can satisfy such a broad spectrum of customers, but Compton and her team are pulling it off.

– Robert Peyton

Compère Lapin, The Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery, 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 599-2119, CompereLapin.com

In Memoriam: The Passing of Pan

Chris “Bozo” Vodanovich

Willie Mae Seaton

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Dick Brennan Sr.

Joe Segreto

here likely are few other professions where the Peter Pan lifestyle takes on such impressive proportions than being a chef.

Chefs remain creative, energetic, enthused, involved, generous and delightful throughout their entire lives. They remain at their posts, mentoring the next generations even as they continue to create and plate culinary delights for our enjoyment and amazement. There is a gleam in their eyes, a lilt in their voice and a desire to please at every phase of their lives.

And that is why losing a chef to life’s inevitable story-arch is a great loss. All human life is precious and to be savored. A chef’s life is something quite out-of-the-usual. This past year, New Orleans and the world have mourned the passing of dear friends, chefs who brought us immense pleasures.

Their legacies will live on, but we’ll no longer be blessed with their presence in the kitchen or at our tables. They enriched us, loved us, and now we have the memory but not the smiling countenance.

Chris “Bozo” Vodanovich: The man behind the oyster counter, assuring top-quality at Bozo’s seafood restaurant, at 86.

Dick Brennan Sr.: Co-founder of Commander’s Palace and Mr. B’s Bistro, creator of the Jazz Brunch and gentle guiding hand of a

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Tony Angello

Paul Prudhomme

significant restaurant family, at 84.

Tony Angello: Many a diner has just said, “Feed me, Mr. Tony,” to initiate a feast at his Tony Angello’s Ristorante, at 88.

Willie Mae Seaton: Whose Creole soul food was served with love to Presidents and longshoremen at Willie Mae’s Scotch House in the Tremé and she became a culinary icon late in her life, at 99.

Joe Segreto: The “restaurateur’s restaurateur” and always the gracious host through decades of great restaurants, most recently at 1179, at 75.

Paul Prudhomme: The remarkable creative visionary and the ambassador of Louisiana culture worldwide, at 75.

They were all extraordinary people who probably would have succeeded in any field where they devoted themselves. But they chose restaurants, which is why we relate to them at a visceral level and why we feel their passing as a personal loss. Taken together, the departure of so many greats in such a short period of time from our dining community is starting to look like a shift of the generations.

These are the giants on whose shoulders future generations of culinary stars will stand.

– Tim McNally CLAIRE McCracken ILLUSTRATIONS

myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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Looking For Order A writer’s tale of working tables

by Chris Rose

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illustration by Jonathan Bartlett

he customers are long gone. The silverware and wine glasses, ice buckets and coffee pots, leatherbound menus and tabletop kerosene lanterns have all been wiped down and stowed away in the cabinets, drawers and on the shelves of the waiter stations in my restaurant. All the tables are set and ready for lunch service tomorrow.

All the other waiters and waitresses – we’re collectively called “servers” in this age of politesse – have long since finished their cleanup duties, counted their receipts, cashed out and bolted out the kitchen door, dispersing through the streets of the city to whatever home, lover or vacant bar stool awaits them.

Everyone but me. I am the closer. I wait until everyone is gone. Then I mop the floor.

Most of the other servers hate closing. No one likes to

mop a restaurant floor after a busy night, including me.

But the closer gets to come in at 6 p.m. instead of 4:30, and that hour and a half is pretty much the only time of day I get to see my kids any more, other than the very sleepy drive to school in the morning, during which my parenting skills are not at their sharpest.

Not since this job. Time is a precious commodity in this new life of mine. At age 53 I’m waiting tables for the first time in my life. The night shift.

With my black apron, black vest and black tie hung on a kitchen hook, I roll up my white shirtsleeves, screw on a fresh mop head, pour in the floor detergent and steer the big, sloshing yellow bucket up to the front of the restaurant to begin my solitary evening ritual.

On the good nights, it’s a time for shutting down the mind after a full day of looking for freelance writing gigs and finding very few. Then getting my kids home from school, off to their practices, preparing a dinner for them to heat up later, making sure their homework is started and then spending six, sometimes eight hours on my feet balancing trays, filling water glasses and running food myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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and drinks.

And smiling. You gotta keep smiling. You tell yourself: It’s like hosting a dinner party that someone else is paying for. You tell yourself anything that keeps you going.

It is exhausting, every bit of it. And on the not-so-good nights, instead of shutting down the mind for a while or drifting off into daydreams, my thoughts race while I swipe the mop under and around the tables and chairs. I sometimes get consumed by equal parts shame, bitterness and humility.

How did I get here? I have a Pulitzer Prize and a New York Times Bestseller and was hailed in this town as a hero in the days after Katrina. I was a local celebrity. Folks in New Orleans took to calling me The Voice of the City, telling me the stories I wrote for the newspaper after the storm made them feel connected and gave them hope. Even kept them alive.

I was on “Oprah.”

And now I strap on an apron every night to work in a restaurant where I can’t even afford to eat. I can’t get any writing gigs. With each passing day, week and month, I have very little evidence to support my firm belief that the voices in my head are correct when they loudly proclaim: I don’t belong here.

I should be doing something else.

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That was then. This is now.

From November 2013 to November ’14, I waited tables to support my family. The last time I had worked in a restaurant before was as a dishwasher at a Turkish restaurant in Madison, Wisconsin, in 1981, when I was 21 years old.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the past 30 years as a professional storyteller, it’s that people love a great rags to riches tale; the arduous climb from obscurity and poverty to fame, fortune and universal acclaim.

And the only story audiences like better than that is the exact opposite. From feast to famine; from glory to the gutter; from the penthouse to the outhouse. There is nothing that stokes a reader’s interest as much as when the hero takes a fall.

I was that hero. At least, that’s what a lot of folks said. They said it so damn much that I had the great misfortune of believing it for a while. And then one day I was out of work. I got fired from my journalism job for standing on principal. But here’s the thing about standing on principle, about getting fired for the right reason as opposed to the wrong reason: Either way, you’re still broke.

For a long time after that, I couldn’t find any steady work.

Loyal friends suggested I was being blackballed. Long-time critics and local bloggers suggested I was washed-up. I just figured I was paying the price for living a very public, reliably un-filtered, often immoderate and sometimes irresponsible enough life to make me a bad bet for local mainstream publications and broadcasts.

But here was the real problem: After striking out all over town looking for writing gigs, I realized I needed to switch careers. And that’s when I realized: I don’t know how to do anything else but write. I possess no marketable skills other than writing and talking. And nobody’s paying much for either of those commodities these days.

My dad, bless his heart: He taught me how to spell carbure-

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tor, but not how to work on one, nor what it does. So I did what every other starving artist in the world does. I started waiting tables. In the greatest restaurant city in the world. With no experience at all.

At the restaurant, they taught me about the food, gave me tastings, gave me tests. No different from anyone else who worked there. They wanted us to know and trust what we were serving. That made all the difference for my entire tenure as a waiter: If you believe in the product, it’s easy to sell.

I believed.

And then, after a week of training, they sent me out to the floor to do my thing. Wait tables. Take orders. Make recommendations. Put people at ease. Entertain them. Keep believing. And keep smiling.

I was nervous as hell the first night. After a week of training, they might have been convinced that I could handle the job, but I sure as hell wasn’t. I still didn’t even understand how to operate the computers. I thought waiters just wrote stuff on a piece of paper and sent it to the kitchen. I was wrong about that.

I was wrong about a lot of things.

–––––––––––

Waiting tables gives you a unique, prescient and discerning glimpse into the breadth and depths of the human condition.

And the human condition is, indeed, broad and deep. My firm belief is that everyone should wait tables for at least three months of their lives.

We would all treat each other better; of that I’m sure.

But that’s not why I got into it. I didn’t wait tables to build character or to research this story or for any other reason than I needed a job and fast. I lasted exactly one year at it. I did my best at it. I would even go as far as to say I did well at it. And I regret not a minute of it. Although it was a surrealistic journey from the minute I first strapped that apron around my waist.

I was terrified when I started. And humiliated. I thought people would recognize me and I would have to explain things, play the world’s tiniest violin, keep my chin up and, more than anything, keep my sense of humor. And, the most embarrassing thing I can say about it all is that – at first – I was embarrassed to be waiting tables.

That is, until I found out that it’s one of the hardest jobs on the planet; if the restaurant is good, in particular. And even more so if you give a damn about your self-esteem.

It was the hardest year of my life. Restaurants – all restaurants – are freak shows. Staffed largely by poets, misfits, drunks, narcissists, jesters and misanthropes, the restaurant business is a fringe community. It isn’t easy. And if you don’t hustle your ass off, you won’t last.

I had spent my life working on deadline, working under pressure, but there’s no pressure in the world more powerful than facing down hungry people waiting for their food. Truthfully, waiting tables is terrifying. And humbling. And character building.

And when everything else fails – blame the kitchen.

––––––––––– The tourists, they just want to have an adventure. They want your recommendations and they love the stories you tell about

certain dishes or drinks, their histories and weird ingredients and flavor profiles.

Flavor profiles. Now there’s a term that didn’t used to be in my vocabulary.

Anyway, the visitors, they just eat it up. Literally. They are in New Orleans and their expectations are high and their excitement is sometimes palpable, and once you start going on and

Your job is to make them love you.

That is when they tip you. on about the sweetness of Gulf Coast pompano, chargrilled on a brick of Himalayan salt and topped with roasted pecan butter and red onion marmalade, proceeded by an amalgam of fresh Louisiana blue crab meat rolled up with Creole cream cheese, flash fried and served over a puréed corn maque choux, proceeded by a carefully crafted French 75 or Sazerac or some other drink they’ve never heard of but which blows their mind, well … that’s when the job is fun.

That is when it’s the dinner party that someone else is paying for. That is when they love you. Your job is to make them love you. That is when they tip you. And that’s how you live on a job that pays $2.13 an hour.

Yes, $2.13 an hour. The rest is up to you, your performance, your skills, your knowledge and your ability to convince people that they’re having a good time. And if you believe and if you hustle and if you keep smiling – nine times out of 10, they will.

Dealing with locals was a little trickier. We had a fair amount of locals in our restaurant, anywhere from 20 to 50 percent on any given night. And they were the ones who made me nervous. Because, nine times out of 10, they knew who I was. And that would launch my nightly ritual of accommodation, explanation, laughter and forgetting.

Locals were easy to identify. Once I walked up to a table and announced my name and began my spiel and they heard my voice – they would start looking at each other. Then me. Then each other. And yes, it was awkward. All the time. Every night.

Eventually someone would say: “You said your name is Chris?”

Yes, ma’am I would say.

“Chris Rose?”

Then: “The Chris Rose?”

How am I supposed to answer that? Why, is there another? Or: I used to be! Or: If you’re implying that I look like that washed up hack, then let’s step outside and settle this the oldfashioned way, man-to-man.

Truthfully, I tried out all three of those until I settled on: “Yep. That’s me!”

And then.

And then any number of possibilities might follow. The most common was: Are you doing this for a story?

Not entirely unreasonable. During my 25 years of newspapering, I became well known, sometimes infamously so, for my willingness to engage in prankster journalism. I punked the Jackson Square tarot readers and the Bourbon Street mimes; I impersonated panhandlers, prostitutes, producers and politicians.

So it’s not a stretch to think I would wait tables as a prank.

A joke. A story.

But that’s not what I was doing. And when people found this out, they had all kinds of reactions. I watched it happen all the time. Surprise. Disappointment. Horror. Jubilation. Anger. Pity.

Me, I got used to it fast. I was surprised – and mildly relieved – that after the first night I never felt embarrassed about what I was doing. It is a human life. Shit happens. I am waiting tables.

“Are you still writing?” people would ask.

“Your order,” I would reply – but not as snarkily as it sounds.

Laugh. Make them laugh. Everybody laugh. Then we can all breathe and get through this.

But yeah, it got weird sometimes. I might deliver a salad to your table and maybe a cherry tomato rolls off the plate and onto the floor and under your table. Well, then it’s my job to get under your table and get that cherry tomato. And then you’re all sitting there looking at each other thinking: Chris Rose is under our table. Getting a cherry tomato.

Well, now everyone has something to post on their Facebook update, don’t they?

Like I said. Shit happens.

But it’s OK. After a while, they settle comfortably into the situation. They say nice things, ask after my health, ask after my children, ask if I am, in fact, still writing. And, in truth, sometimes, every now and then, they’ll feel so profoundly sorry for me that they would leave an overly generous tip. Sometimes, if it was two couples and one was from out of town – and paying the bill – one of the locals would stick a couple 20s under their coffee cup before they left.

God in heaven, people can be so kind.

Because they know from whence heights and accolades I’ve travelled. Because somewhere along the line, they remember hearing stories about how I fell on hard times here and there.

Because they know I have three kids. Or maybe just because they like me, they’re rooting for me. Or maybe just because they pity me.

And so it goes. Night after night. Shift after shift. Week after week. Like that. Our fish of the day is grilled pompano, prepared with a roasted pecan butter and caramelized red onion marmalade, set on a bed of assorted citrus and collard greens and, yes, no problem, I can make sure the chef holds the pecan butter; we’re as concerned about your nut allergies as you are, and thank you for dining at the Kingfish tonight.

Please come again.

I said that night after night, week after week, month after month. And I was always hoping that if and when they did, I wouldn’t be there.

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the MENU TABLE TALK

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RESTAURANT INSIDER

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FOOD

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LAST CALL

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DINING LISTINGS

table talk pg. 80

“Kris Doll has plied his trade at a number of places over the last several years. ...

Now he has hung his shingle as the owner of Shank Charcuterie on St. Claude Avenue, across from the St. Roch Market. Primarily a neighborhood butcher shop that sells cuts and prepared items, Doll also serves up a lunch menu at his counter.”

jeffery johnston PHOTOGRAPH

THE MENU / TABLE TALK

Pork sandwich at Shank Charcuterie

Charcuterie Cut and taste

by JAY FORMAN

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inter months trigger an itch for complex flavors that is especially well scratched by charcuterie. This catch-all term for cured meats can also apply to stores that specialize in them, and the list of local chefs and places focusing on this discipline has grown long. But there are some new options out there and notable chefs who push the boundaries of these techniques.

Kris Doll has plied his trade at a number of places over the last several years, including Ancora and Cleaver & Company. Now he has hung

his shingle as the owner of Shank Charcuterie on St. Claude Avenue, across from the St. Roch Market. Primarily a neighborhood butcher shop that sells cuts and prepared items, Doll also serves up a lunch menu at his counter.

“Whatever I have at the lunch counter is straight out of the case,” Doll says of Shank’s primal-driven modus. “For example, if I’ve just broken down a cow and have, say, a brisket left I will smoke it off and run a brisket sandwich for lunch.”

The same approach goes for hog – keep an eye

Meat Merriment Shank Charcuterie 2352 St. Claude Ave. 218-5281 ShankCharcuterie.com Lunch Tuesdays-Saturdays

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Root Squared 1800 Magazine St. 309-7800 RootSquaredNola.com Dinner and Drinks TuesdaysSaturdays

Chris’ Specialty Meats 6521 West End Blvd.

309-0010 ChrisSpecialtyMeats.com

open for his pulled pork sandwich. Smoked for 16 hours and then shredded after it cools to the touch, Doll tosses the pork with a Carolina-style vinegar dressing. “For service I use Hawaiian bread and white BBQ sauce. The bread is sweet so it offsets the vinegar and the spice,” Doll explains.

Doll buys his product whole and butchers it in-house. Pork comes from Chappapeela Farms and his beef from Eunice Superette. “I’m not using like New Zealand lamb or anything,” Doll says.

“It’s all Louisiana stuff.”

That also goes for his lamb and goat. Going into the holiday season, bigger ticket items like rib roast tend to sell, though customers more typically come in to pick up a chop or a strip for dinner.

Prepared options include his house-made tasso, boudin and headcheese.

For the tasso, the back leg of the hog is brined for at least a week before it gets rubbed down with a mud made of beer, paprika, cayenne,and other seasonings. After setting overnight in the fridge, it gets smoked off. The result is a spicy ham perfect for seasoning jambalaya, red beans and the like.

Look to Doll to provide the stuff you won’t find at Wal-Mart. “With the jeffery johnston PHOTOGRAPH

Butcher to Home In Lakeview, on the corner of West End Boulevard and Harrison Avenue, carnivores will delight in the glory of Chris’ Specialty Meats, an offshoot of the popular Baton Rouge Cajun butcher shop. Basically a small grocery devoted to all manner of meaty goodness, here you can find stuffed chicken, marinated ribs ready for the smoker, crawfish boudin and more.

Harder-to-source items like rabbit and quail are also available. And, if you’re so inclined, you can order a whole gator, either head on or head off, per your preference. weather changing, I like braises and I definitely like beef shank. I bone out a shank and split it to get the marrow. Then I stuff the split bone, roll it up tight and braise it until it’s fallapart osso bucco tender. That is one of my favorite things and something you’ll never see at the grocery in those little cellophane packs.”

If Doll trends to the more regional end of the spectrum, Philip Lopez of Root skews the other way. “We have a pretty extensive program across the two locations,” Lopez says of his pair of restaurants. “We have about 32 different charcuterie items between them.”

Lopez is known for his modernist riffs and those are certainly present, though in this case they do take a back seat to the fundamentals and typically find more expression through his accompaniments.

Root Squared, the upstairs bar area of his flagship Square Root, offers an abbreviated version to the overall menu and is a good place to sample

them. Here you will also find Lopez’s Berber Spice Chicken Liver Pate, an incredibly creamy iteration of the style, more akin to custard than a pâté. “The flavor profile is a little sweet, almost like a crème brulée,” Lopez says.

“We add a little fat to get the certain consistency we are looking for and then the Berber spice blend.” This pâté has proven so popular that Lopez gets people that order it as a side. “They use it as like a smear for other things they get off the menu, almost like a dipping sauce,” he says.

His Beet and Coriander Smoked Wild Salmon takes on an almost steak-like quality from the curing process and comes arranged like a rose in bloom. For sausages, try the small, fiery salchichas – an amped up version of its more well-known cousin the chorizo. Accompaniments vary according the season but typically make use of cold pickles. Ingredients are often sourced from Pelican Produce, and Hong Kong Market is a popular hunting ground for his spices. “Spicy bread and butter style chips, pickled eggplant, our version of Gardiner using gourd, pumpkin and squash – we do all of this,” Lopez says.

And while pork, lamb and beef are typical building blocked, Lopez is at work on vegetarian charcuterie.

Is that a thing?

“I don’t think it is a thing but we are going to try and make it a thing,” he laughs. Recently he experimented with applying the curing techniques to Spanish black radish. “It ended up having this essence of truffles, as well as that coloring when we sliced them. For that first batch we sliced them and used it for accents. Now I’d like to tone down the spice to make them a primary selection on the menu rather than an accompaniment.” n

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THE MENU / RESTAURANT INSIDER

News From the Kitchens

Coutelier NOLA, Tchoupitoulas Beer Garden & Palace Café

BY ROBERT PEYTON

Coutelier NOLA Until recently, if you wanted to buy a truly high-quality knife in New Orleans you had to go online. About four months ago, Coutelier NOLA opened at 8239 Oak St., and dramatically increased the options available. Knives, for those of us who use them all the time, are a very personal thing, and being able to hold one before purchasing is important.

Chefs Jacqueline Blanchard and Brandt Cox are the folks behind the shop, and it’s the first job either has had outside of the kitchen. Their aim is to sell to professionals as well as homecooks, and they plan to host pop-up dinners in the long, narrow space when they get the time.

The knives are Japanese, which tend to be slimmer than Western knives, and generally have single-bevel edges. Most of the knives at Coutelier NOLA, however, can be sharpened with a more typically European, double-beveled edge, either 70/30 or 50/50. They also offer sharpening, with at most a 24-hour turnaround. Prices range from the affordable (an eight-inch chef’s knife by a company called MAC for under $100, to the expensive, for blades from a single maker.

Cox and Blanchard (which sounds like an accounting firm, now that I consider it) have plans to host classes on knife skills and sharpening, and they also have an expanding assortment of kitchen tools and local products like cutting boards, sea salt and spices. Call 475-5606 for more information.

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Tchoupitoulas Beer Garden Tchoupitoulas Beer Garden takes over the space that was formerly Bouche, a highend wine and cigar bar. The two operations are very different; where Bouche strove for elegance, Tchoupitoulas Beer Garden aims for a more casual vibe.

At the entrance, there’s a booth where you can buy tokens to use for beer and food, though the main bar also accepts cash. Draft beer is the focus here, and both local (NOLA Brewing, Covington Brewhouse, Bayou Teche), national (Goose Island, Destihl, Wasatch) and import (Ayinger, Weihenstephan) brews are available.

It is a well-curated list, though as in all things alcohol, I defer to my colleague Tim McNally for the final word.

There is food, too, and as you’d expect for a place that calls itself a beer garden, sausages are on the menu. In addition, there’s a German-style goulash, flatbreads with various toppings, fries and a few other choices.

Tchoupitoulas Beer Garden is located at 840 Tchoupitoulas St., Suite 103, and it’s open Mondays-Thursdays, 4 p.m. until midnight, and Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. For more information, visit TBGNola.com.

Palace Café Dickie Brennan’s Palace Café reopened in October after a significant renovation. The most obvious change to the interior is the addition of the “Black Duck” bar on the second floor. It is the first thing you see when you climb the winding central stairway from the first floor dining room. The brightly lit bar is located along the back wall, with low tables in front and to the side, where there’s also a large, flatscreen television. The bar specializes in rum, of which there are dozens, and tequilas.

The renovation didn’t change the essential makeup of Palace Café or its menu; chances are good that if there was a dish you liked, it’s still available.

One thing that’s new is the “shared” section of the menu. It is the work of French Master chef Rene Bajeux, and there are three basic options: cheese, charcuterie and the “Fruits de Mer.” All three shared items come with seasonal pickles, mostarda, chutney, mustard and Bellegarde bread. Bajeux is not the only notable chef to have joined Dickie Brennan’s team; chefs Gunter Preuss and Greg Sonnier are also on board, though not in as direct a role at Palace Café.

Palace Café is located at 605 Canal St. and is open for Breakfast Mondays-Fridays, 8 -11 a.m., for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and for dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m. until closing. On Saturdays and Sundays there’s a brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. You can call 523-1661 to make a reservation.

SARA ESSEX BRADLEY photographs

THE MENU / FOOD

Having Your Own Reveillion A meal for rejoicing

by Dale Curry

EUGENIA UHL PHOTOGRAPH

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Chocolate Mousse

The following recipe is adapted from Julia Child s From Julia Child’s Kitchen.

4 large eggs ¼ cup water 1 ½ Tablespoons instant coffee ¾ cup sugar 1/4 cup brandy 6 ounces good-quality bittersweet chocolate chips 6 ounces butter, cut into 1-inch pieces Pinch salt ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar Separate eggs with whites going into the bowl of an electric mixer and yolks into a medium stainless steel bowl. With a wire whip, beat the yolks until thick.

Set a double boiler with 1 inch of water in bottom pan over high heat. Add ¼ cup water to the top pan, then add coffee and stir to dissolve. Gradually add the sugar, stirring constantly until dissolved. This should boil briefly until the mixture is clear, not cloudy. Remove from heat and very slowly dribble hot mixture into egg yolks while whisking. Set aside.

Reheat the double boiler to medium heat and add brandy to the same pan used to melt sugar. Add chocolate chips, stirring occasionally, until melted.

Remove from pan with boiling water.

Place bowl with eggs over boiler on a low simmer and whisk over low heat until mixture has doubled in volume for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and place bowl over a larger bowl of cold water. With a hand mixer, beat mixture until a thick ribbon forms when you lift the mixer.

Make sure chocolate is still completely melted. If not, return to boiler, stirring, until completely melted. Whisk for a few seconds and remove from hot water.

Beat in butter, piece by piece. Fold chocolate mixture into egg yolks, using a rubber spatula and working quickly.

While chocolate mixture is still warm, beat egg whites in electric mixer. When soft peaks form, add cream of tartar and salt and continue beating until stiff peaks form. Add a fourth of beaten egg whites to the chocolate mixture and fold in with a rubber spatula. Turn rest of egg whites and rapidly fold in, deflating egg whites as little as possible.

Spoon into individual ramekins or a single large bowl. Serves 8

M

y Christmas plans include a concert at St. Louis Cathedral followed by a Reveillon dinner in the Quarter.

Around 50 restaurants in New Orleans have stepped up to the tradition of special holiday meals, but the original Reveillon repasts happened at midnight Christmas Eve in the homes of French Quarter residents.

The celebration comes from word “réveiller” meaning to awaken. And our hungry forebears, having fasted the day of Christmas Eve and attending midnight Mass at St. Louis Cathedral, welcomed what was considered a modest breakfast. Actually, in a prosperous Creole home, the meal might include three courses of dishes such as daube glacé, grillades, eggs,

oysters and gumbo.

Thanks to French Quarter Festivals, Inc., we have restored this tradition, differently, but calling attention to the mood and food of yesteryear and especially the sharing of food with family and friends.

Lights and Christmas music add to the feeling with free concerts most nights of December in the cathedral and a major Christmas concert on Christmas Eve. I like the idea of having my own Reveillon dinner at home. Most participating restaurants serve three and four courses. I have chosen the following three-course meal of French dishes that might well have been served in old New Orleans on Christmas Eve.

Oyster Bisque

Beef Bourguignon

4 dozen large oysters with extra liquor (double if oysters are small)

1 Tablespoon olive oil

8 ounces thick-sliced smoked bacon, diced

5 Tablespoons butter

3 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes

5 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 onion, chopped

2 onions, chopped

1 bunch green onions, white and green parts separated and chopped

1 pound baby carrots, cut in halves

2 stalks celery, chopped 2 pods garlic, minced 4 cups oyster liquor and water, if needed Freshly ground black pepper Pinch cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons Creole seasoning 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 cups Half & Half 1/3 cup heavy cream Salt to taste Flat-leaf parsley, chopped, about 3 Tablespoons plus extra for garnish Purchase oysters at a seafood store and ask for extra liquor. Drain oysters reserving liquor.

Check each oyster for any shell. Set aside.

In a large heavy skillet or medium heavy pot, melt butter, stir in flour and cook over medium heat, stirring, until mixed and thickened. You should have a blonde roux the color of straw. Add white onions and celery and sauté for about 5 minutes over low heat. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute more. Gradually add oyster liquor and enough water to make 4 cups while stirring constantly. When mixed well add peppers and Worcestershire. Simmer, covered, over low heat for 15 minutes.

Add 1 dozen oysters to the pot and continue simmering for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, chop other oysters and set aside.

Using a hand blender, purée the mixture in the pot. Bring heat to medium and add chopped oysters. Simmer until oysters curl. Gradually add Half & Half, stirring over low heat. Taste and add salt if needed. Remove from heat and stir in green onion tops and parsley. Garnish with more chopped parsley and green onion tops. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer

4 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tablespoon tomato paste ½ cup brandy 2 cups dry red wine 2 cups beef broth 1 ¼-ounce bundle fresh thyme, tied together 3 dried or 6 fresh bay leaves 3 Tablespoons butter 3 Tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 13-ounce frozen packages pearl onions 1 pound fresh baby bella mushrooms, sliced 3 Tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Rice, cooked, for serving Heat oil in a large Dutch oven. Cook bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown. Remove bacon to a plate. Salt and pepper beef and brown in single-row batches until brown on all sides. Remove each batch to plate. Sauté onions and carrots in same pot, adding a little oil if needed, for 5 minutes over medium-low heat.

Add garlic and sauté 1 minute more. Add tomato paste and stir for a few minutes. Add brandy, wine and stock. Return bacon and beef to pot, add tied bundle of thyme, bay leaves and salt and pepper to taste, and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour or until meat is tender. When tender, skim any fat from surface and discard.

In a small skillet, melt butter and stir in flour.

Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until roux is the color of milk chocolate. Gradually add roux to pot, stirring constantly. Add frozen onions and mushrooms and cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until onions are done. Taste and adjust seasonings. Remove bay leaves and thyme bundle and discard. Stir in parsley. Serve over rice. Sprinkle with more parsley, if desired. Serves 8 to 10 myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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THE MENU / LAST CALL

A Tobago Christmas

’Tis our season to celebrate as only we can BY tim mcnally

M

ost of America labors under the misconception that the holiday season must be celebrated with temperatures in the single digits and with frozen water falling from the sky.

For New Orleanians, the joy of the season is in our traditions of keeping the air conditioning at the ready and not storing away our lighter wardrobes. For us, putting chains on our tires is the stuff of movies – viewed but never experienced. Skidding on ice with thin steel blades attached to our shoes? We might as well be talking snow blowers and woolen blankets.

Those items are just not in our frame of reference.

During the holidays, New Orleans, rightly so, looks to the east – way to the east. We look to the Caribbean, with warm waters, plenty of sun and island delights.

It is whom we resemble the most, and given our proclivity to enjoy spicy foods alongside cocktails that originated in the sugar cane fields, who would want to make the choice of cold and damp instead of the warm and tropical?

Our culinary- and cocktail-talented friends at SoBou have given into their inner-beach, offering homage to a small island paradise. Celebrating the holidays this way is so much better! n

Tobago Santa ¾ ounce Goslings dark rum ¾ ounce Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum ½ ounce Angostura bitters 2 ounces whole milk ¼ ounce Cointreau Dash of simple syrup Dash of vanilla extract Shake and serve over ice (no garnish).

As created and served by Laura Belluci, head bartender at SoBou, 310 Chartres St. 86

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sara essex bradley PHOTOGRAPH

THE MENU / DINING GUIDE H= New Orleans Magazine award winner / $ = Average entrée price. $ = $5-10 / $$ = $11-15 / $$$ = $16-20 / $$$$ = $21-25 / $$$$$ = $25 and up.

American Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill Multiple Locations, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily.

Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular restaurant serves a variety of grilled items as well as appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Also offers catering services. $$$

Bywater Elizabeth’s 601 Gallier St., 944-9272, ElizabethsRestaurantNola.com. B, L MonFri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sat-Sun. This eclectic local restaurant draws rave reviews for its praline bacon and distinctive Southerninspired brunch specials. $$$

H Maurepas 3200 Burgundy St., 2670072, MaurepasFoods.com. D Thu-Tue, Br Sat-Sun. Pioneering farm-to-table restaurant with an ingredient-driven menu that changes daily. Clever cocktails a plus as well. $$ Satsuma Café 3218 Dauphine St., 3045962, SatsumaCafe.com. B, L daily (until 5 p.m.). Offers healthy, inspired breakfast and lunch fare, along with freshly squeezed juices. $

carrollton Bourré 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040.

L, D Tue-Sun. “Elevated” street food along with quality daiquiris and reconsidered wings are the draw at this newcomer from the team behind Boucherie. $$

CITY PARK Café NOMA 1 Collins Diboll Circle, NO Museum of Art, City Park, 482-1264, CafeNoma.com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$

CBD/Warehouse District The Grill Room Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-1992, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Featuring modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Manning’s 519 Fulton St., 593-8118. L, D

daily, Br Sat-Sun. Born of a partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up in terms of comfort and quality. With a menu that draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South, traditional dishes get punched up with inspired but accessible twists in surroundings accented by both memorabilia and local art. $$$ Pete’s Pub Intercontinental Hotel, 444 St. Charles Ave., 585-5401, IcNewOrleans. com/dining/petes_pub. D Mon-Fri. Casual fare and adult beverages are served in this pub on the ground floor. $$ Q&C Hotel/Bar 344 Camp St., (866) 247-7936, QandC.com. B, D daily. Newly renovated boutique hotel offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$

H Root 200 Julia St., 252-9480, RootNola. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Chef Philip Lopez opened Root in November 2011 and has garnered a loyal following for his modernist, eclectic cuisine. Try the country fried chicken wings and the Cohiba-smoked scallops crusted with chorizo. $$$$ H Restaurant August 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef John Besh’s menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Tivoli & Lee 2 Lee Circle, 962-0909, TivoliAndLee.com. B, L, D daily, Br SatSun. Progressive Southern cuisine is the focus. Rabbit sliders, poke salad and pickled shrimp redefine locally sourced ingredients, and craft cocktail and bourbon menus round out the appeal. Craft cocktail bar Bellocq serves specialty and locally influenced libations. $$$ Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar 1009 Poydras St., 309-6530, Walk-Ons.com. L, D, daily.

Burger, sandwiches, wraps and more made distinctive with a Louisiana twist are served at this sports bar near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. $$

Warehouse Grille, 869 Magazine St., 322-2188, WarehouseGrille.com. L, D daily, Br Fri-Sun. Creative fare served in an artfilled environment. Try the duck crêpes or the lamb spring rolls. $$ Wolfe’s in the Warehouse 859 Convention Center Blvd., 613-2882. B, L, D daily.

Chef Tom Wolfe brings his refined cuisine to the booming Fulton Street corridor.

His Smoked Kobe Short Ribs are a good choice. $$$

Downtown The Grill 540 Chartres St., 522-1800. B, L, D daily. A diner with local character straffed by local characters. $

Faubourg Marigny Langlois 1710 Pauger St., 934-1010, LangloisNola.com. L Fri-Sat, D Wed-Sun. *Reservations only Supper club and boutique cooking school in the Marigny serves up culturally informed, farm-to-table fare with the added bonus of instruction. Dishes include Spiced Quail and Lemongrass Meatballs with Smoked broth. Open kitchen and convivial atmosphere add up to a good time. $$$ The Marigny Brasserie 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie.com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like the Wedge of Lettuce salad and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Cosmo. $$$ Snug Harbor 626 Frenchman St., 9490696, SnugJazz.com. D daily. This jazz club serves cocktails and a dining menu loaded with steaks, seafood and meaty burgers served with loaded baked potatoes. $$$$

French Quarter Angeline 1032 Chartres St., 308-3106, AngelineNola.com. B Mon-Fri, Brunch Sat & Sun, D nightly. Modern southern with a fine dining focus is the hallmark of this bistro tucked away in a quiet end of the French Quarter. Southern Fried Quail and Braised Lamb Necks with ricotta agnolotti represent the style. $$$ Continental Provisions 110 N Peters St., Stall 23, 407-3437. Open daily. Artisan purveyors including Bellegarde Bakery and Cleaver & Company team up to reclaim a foothold for quality food in the tourist

Ground Zero of the French Market. Sandwiches, breads, cheeses and more. $$ Hard Rock Café 125 Bourbon St., 529-5617, HardRock.com. L, D daily.

Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$ The Pelican Club 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$ Rib Room Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Old World elegance and high ceilings, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on weekends a champagne brunch. $$$

GARDEN DISTRICT Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s, 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$ District Donuts Sliders Brew, 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, DonutsAndSliders. com. B, L, D daily. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this next-generation café. $

Metairie café B 2700 Metairie Road, 934-4700, cafeB.com. D daily, L Mon-Sat. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this familyfriendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Caffe! Caffe! 3547 N. Hullen St., 2679190. B, L Mon-Sat. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. B, L daily; D Mon-Sat. CaffeCaffe.com Healthy, refreshing meal options combine with gourmet coffee and espresso drinks to create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price.

Try the egg white spinach wrap. $ Heritage Grill 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 934-4900, HeritageGrillMetairie.com.

Celebrate the Feast of the 7 Fishes at Red Gravy Red Gravy: 125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravyCafe.com Red Gravy restaurant in the Central Business District is hosting a traditional Italian Christmas celebration, The Feast of the 7 Fishes, Dec. 17-18. In Italy, the main celebratory meal is on Christmas Eve and features seven types of fish to represent the seven sacraments in the Catholic religion. At Red Gravy, diners will be able to experience this Italian tradition with a six-course tasting menu for $80 per person. It will include a glass of Prosecco and Dessert Wine and will end with Strufoli, Italian honey balls. Dinner will be served 6-9:30 p.m., and reservations can be made at Red Gravy’s website. – Mirella Cameran.

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cheryl gerber photograph

L Mon-Fri. This lunch-only destination caters to the office crowd and offers a freshly squeezed juice menu to go along with its regular menu and express twocourse lunch. $$ Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmeer Ave., 8967300, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, towering burgers, hearty soups and salads and giant, deli-style sandwiches. $ Vega Tapas Café 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, VegaTapasCafe.com. D Mon-Sat. Innovative establishment offers fresh seafood, grilled meats and vegetarian dishes in a chic environment. Daily chef specials showcase unique ingredients and make this place a popular destination for dates as well as groups of friends. $$

Mid-City Parkway Bakery and Tavern 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $

NORTHSHORE Dakota 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 8923712, TheDakotaRestaurant.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$

Riverbend Carrollton Market 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket.com. D Tue-

Sat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$

Uptown Audubon Clubhouse 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute.org. B, L TueSat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Camellia Grill 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ GG’s Dine-O-Rama 3100 Magazine St., 373-6579, GGsNewOrleans.com. B Sat, L, Tue-Sun, D Tue-Fri, Br Sun. Upscalecasual restaurant serves a variety of specialty sandwiches, salads and wraps, like the Chicago-style hot dog and the St. Paddy’s Day Massacre, chef Gotter’s take on the Rueben. $$ Martin Wine Cellar 3827 Baronne St., 899-7411, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle with cheeses and snacks to-go. $ Slim Goodies 3322 Magazine St., 891 EGGS (3447), SlimGoodiesDiner.com. B, L daily. This diner offers an exhaustive menu heavily influenced by local cuisine. Try the Creole Slammer, a breakfast platter rounded out by crawfish étouffée. The laid-back vibe is best enjoyed on the patio out back. $

Stein’s Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St., 527-0771, SteinsDeli.net. B, L, D TueSun. New York City meets New Orleans.

The Reuben and Rachel sandwiches are the real deal and the half-sours and pickled tomatoes complete the deli experience. $ Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar 1418 Magazine St., 524-3828; 4807 Magazine St., 895-5757, SurreysCafeAndJuiceBar. com. B, L daily. Laid-back café focuses on breakfast and brunch dishes to accompany freshly squeezed juice offerings. Healthfood lovers will like it here, along with fans of favorites such as peanut butter and banana pancakes. $$ Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar 2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraceysNola.com.

L, D daily. A neighborhood bar with one of the best messy roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners.

Grab a local Abita beer to wash it all down.

Also a great location to watch the game. $

H Upperline 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger and talented chef Dave Bridges make for a winning combination at this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$ H Wayfare 4510 Freret St., 309-0069, WayfareNola.com. L, D daily. Creative sandwiches and southern-inspired small plates. $$

Ye Olde College Inn 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933.com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$

Asian Fusion/Pan Asian Little Tokyo Multiple locations, LittleTokyoNola.com. L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$

Bywater Red’s Chinese 3048 St. Claude Ave., 304-6030, RedsChinese.com. D Wed-Mon. Assertive, in-your-face Chinese fare by chef Tobias Womack, an alum of Danny Bowien’s Mission Chinese. The Kung Pao Pastrami and Delta Broccoli are good options. $$

CBD/Warehouse District Horinoya 920 Poydras St., 561-8914. L, D daily. Excellent Japanese dining. The chu-toro is delicious and the selection of authentic Japanese appetizers is the best. $$$ Rock-N-Sake 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$

Faubourg Marigny Bao and Noodle 2700 Charters St., 272-0004, BaoAndNoodle.com. L, D daily. Housemade noodles and a more authentic take on Chinese fare sets this

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DINING GUIDE neighborhood startup apart. Try the soup dumplings if available $$

French Quarter V Sushi 821 Iberville St., 609-2291, VSushiMartini.com. D daily, late-night.

Creative rolls and a huge list of fusion dishes keep party-lovers going late into the night at this combination sushi and martini bar. $$$

Garden District Hoshun Restaurant 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Offers a wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Five-pepper calamari is a tasty way to begin the meal, and their creative sushi rolls are good.

Private dining rooms available. $$

H Tan Dinh 1705 Lafayette St., 361-8008.

B, L, D daily. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$

Kenner Little Chinatown 3800 Williams Blvd., 305-0580, LittleChinatown.net. L, D daily.

One of the city’s best Chinese restaurants is secreted away on William’s Boulevard in Kenner. Try the roast duck or roast pork, either one is terrific, as well as their short menu of authentic dishes that (for the most part) avoid Americanized Chinese fare. $$

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Lakeview Lakeview Pearl 6300 Canal St., 309-5711, LakeviewPearl.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A long list of specialty rolls rounds out the offerings of this Asian-Fusion restaurant. $$

Metairie CoNola Grill & Sushi 619 Pink St., 837-0055, CoNolaGrillSushi.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Eclectic cafe with DNA from both Sun Ray Grill and Aloha Sushi Bar puts out southern-inspired fare backed by an Americanized sushi menu, a kids menu and more. Along with a Sunday brunch, there’s something for everyone at this independent restaurant. $$$

H Royal China 600 Veterans Blvd., 8319633. L daily, D Tue-Sun. Popular and family-friendly Chinese restaurant is one of the few places around that serves dim sum. $$ MARRERO Daiwa, 5033 Lapalco Blvd., 875-4203, DaiwaSushi.com. L, D daily. Japanese destination on the Westbank serves an impressive and far-ranging array of creative fusion fare. $$$

Mid-City H Café Minh 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and Cynthia Vutran bring a fusion touch to Vietnamese cuisine with French accents and a contemporary flair. $$

Five Happiness 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily.

This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$

H MoPho 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoMidCity.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$ Riverbend H Ba Chi Canteen 7900 Maple St., 3735628. L, D Mon-Sat. The kitchen plays fast and loose with Vietnamese fare at this eclectic outpost on Maple Street. Try the caramelized pork “Baco”. $

H Chill Out Café 729 Burdette St., 872-

H Jung’s Golden Dragon 3009 Magazine St., 891-8280, JungsChinese.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. Along with the usual, you’ll find spicy cold noodle dishes and dumplings. One of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $

H Magasin 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $ Kyoto 4920 Prytania St., 891-3644, KyotoNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood sushi restaurant where the regulars order off-the-menu rolls. $$

WEST BANK

9628. B, L daily, D Mon-Sat. Thai food and breakfast favorites like waffles and pancakes can both be had at this affordable college-friendly hangout. $

Nine Roses 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, NineRosesResturant.com. L, D Sun-Tue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. $$

Uptown

Bakery/Breakfast

Chiba 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Chiba-Nola. com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant features fresh, exotic fish from all over the world and fusion fare to go along with typical Japanese options.

Extensive sake list and late night happy hours are a plus. $$$

Café du Monde Multiple Locations, CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Coffee House Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore,

CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $

BROADMOOR Gracious to Go 7220 Earhart Blvd., 3013709, GraciousBakery.com. B Mon-Fri. Quick-service outpost of Gracious Bakery + Café serves artisan pastries, locally roasted coffee and grab-and-go sandwiches to meet the needs of commuters.

Onsite parking a plus. $

CBD/Warehouse District H Merchant 800 Common St., 571-9580, MerchantNewOrleans.com. B, L daily. Illy coffee and creative crêpes, sandwiches and more are served at this sleek and contemporary café on the ground floor of the Merchant Building. $

H Ruby Slipper Café 200 Magazine St., 525-9355; 1005 Canal St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

CARROLLTON Breads on Oak, 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. B, L Wed-Sun. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak Street serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $

City Park Morning Call 56 Dreyfous Drive, City Park, 885-4068, NewOrleansCityPark.com/

in-the-park/morning-call. 24 hours a day; cash-only. Chicory coffee and beignets coated with powdered sugar make this the quintessential New Orleans coffee shop. $

Faubourg Marigny H Ruby Slipper Café 2001 Burgundy St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

Mid-City Gracious Bakery + Café 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com. B, L daily. Boutique bakery on the ground floor of the Woodward Building offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $

H Ruby Slipper Café 139 S. Cortez St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

Lower Garden District

METAIRIE

Voodoo BBQ 1501 St. Charles Ave., 522-4647, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$

Cheeseburger Eddie’s, 4517 W Esplanade Ave., 455-5511, AustinsNo.com/ Cheeseburger-Eddie-s.html. L, D Mon-Sat. Hickory-grilled burgers are the main draw at this casual spot but tacos, tamales, poor boys and more are also served. $

Metairie

Riverbend H Cowbell 8801 Oak St., 298-8689,

Voodoo BBQ 2740 Severn Ave., 353-4227, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$

Burgers French Quarter Bayou Burger, 503 Bourbon St., 5294256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Zydeco Bites. $$ Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave., 5230120, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

Barbecue

Lakeview

Bywater

Lakeview Harbor 911 Harrison Ave., 486-4887, NewOrleansBestBurger.com. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game at this restaurant. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $

The Joint 701 Mazant St., 949-3232, AlwaysSmokin.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Some of the city’s best barbecue can be had at this locally owned and operated favorite. $

Cowbell-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Burgers and homemade sauces on potato rolls are the specialty here, along with other favorites like skirt steak. $$

Uptown H The Company Burger 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $

French CBD/Warehouse District Chateau du Lac 857 Fulton St., 301-0235, ChateauduLacWarehouse.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro, run by chef-owner Jacques Saleun, offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. $$$$ Le Foret 129 Camp St., 553-6738, LeForetNewOrleans.com. D Mon-Sat. Sophisticated fine dining melds southern cuisine and classic French with modernist influences in an elegant setting. $$$$

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DINING GUIDE Faubourg St. John H Café Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

French Quarter Broussard’s, 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. D daily, L Fri, Br Sun. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

H Marti’s 1041 Dumaine St., 522-5478, MartisNola.com. D daily. Classic French cuisine, small plates and chilled seafood platters like Grand Plateau Fruits De Mer are the calling cards for this restaurant with an elegant “Old World” feel. $$$

Lacombe\ H La Provence 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, LaProvenceRestaurant.com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Chef John Besh upholds time-honored Provençal cuisine and rewards his guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property. $$$$$

Metairie

are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery 4238 Magazine St., 8913377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L Tue-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily Frenchinspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

Gastropub Abita Springs Abita Brew Pub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D TueSun. Better-than-expected pub food in its namesake eatery. “Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$

CBD/Warehouse District Gordon Biersch 200 Poydras St., 5522739, GordonBiersch.com. L, D daily.

Local outpost of this popular chain serves specialty brews made on-site and crowdpleasing lunch and dinner fare. $$

Chateau du Lac 2037 Metairie Road, 8313773, ChateauduLacBistro.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro, run by chef-owner Jacques Saleun, offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. $$$$

Victory 339 Baronne St., 522-8664, VictoryNola.com. D Tue-Sat. Craft cocktails served by owner and acclaimed bartender Daniel Victory, as well as refined small plates and gourmet pizza. $$

Uptown

French Quarter H Cane & Table 1113 Decatur St., 581-

Bistro Daisy 5831 Magazine St., 899-6987, BistroDaisy.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Anton Schulte and his wife Diane’s bistro serves creative and contemporary bistro fare in a romantic setting. The signature Daisy Salad is a favorite. $$$$

1112, CaneAndTableNola.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. Open late, this chef-driven rustic colonial cuisine and rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$

H Coquette 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, CoquetteNola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Wed-Mon, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from chef Michael and his partner Lillian Hubbard. $$$

Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the muse at this beautifully renovated bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle.

A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

Flaming Torch 737 Octavia St., 895-0900, FlamingTorchNola.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. French classics including a tasty onion soup and often a sought-after coq-au-vin. $$

H La Crêpe Nanou 1410 Robert St., 8992670, LaCrepeNanou.com. D daily, Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes,

H Patrick’s Bar Vin 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$

Lower Garden District The Tasting Room 1926 Magazine St., 5813880, TTRNewOrleans.com. D Wed-Sun.

Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar near Coliseum Square. $$

entrées, features locally raised products, some from chef John Besh’s Northshore farm. $$$$

Mid-City

Red Gravy 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. B, Br, L, D, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table Italian restaurant offers a creative array of breakfast items such as Cannoli Pancakes as well as delectable sandwiches and more for lunch.

Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties like Cacciucco round out the dinner menu. $$

Trèo 3835 Tulane Ave., 304-4878, TreoNola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Craft cocktail bar also serves a short but excellent small plates menu to accompany its artfully composed libations. $$

Uptown The Avenue Pub 1732 St. Charles Ave., 586-9243, TheAvenuePub.com. Kitchen open 24/7. With more than 43 rotating draft beers, this pub also offers food, including a cheese plate from St. James Cheese Co. and the “Pub Burger.” Counter service only. $ Bouligny Tavern 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern.com. D Mon-Sat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ The Delachaise 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$

Italian Avondale H Mosca’s 4137 Highway 90 West, 4638950, MoscasRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution dishes out massive portions of great food, family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. Cash only. $$$

Bywater H Mariza 2900 Charters St., 598-5700, MarizaNewOrleans.com. D Tue-Sat. An Italian-inspired restaurant by chef Ian Schnoebelen features a terrific raw bar, house-cured charcuterie and an array of refined adult beverages served in the industrial/contemporary setting on the ground floor of the Rice Mills lofts. $$$

CBD/Warehouse District H Domenica The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Chef Alon Shaya serves authentic, regional Italian cuisine.

The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and

Tommy’s Cuisine 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery.

Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$

French Quarter Café Giovanni 117 Decatur St., 529-2154, CafeGiovanni.com. D daily. Live opera singers three nights a week. A selection of Italian specialties tweaked with a Creole influence and their Belli Baci happy hour adds to the atmosphere. $$$$ Chartres House, 601 Chartres St., 5868383, ChartresHouse.com. L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Irene’s Cuisine 539 St. Philip St., 529881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals.

Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$

H Italian Barrel 430 Barracks St., 5690198, ItalianBarrel.com. L, D daily. Northern Italian dishes like Braciola di Maiale as well as an exhaustive pasta menu tempt here at this local favorite that also offers al fresco seating. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Enjoy pecan-crusted drum and other local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House 500 Chartres St., 524522-4152, NapoleonHouse.com. L Mon-

The Cellar on St. Louis Brings Art and Food Together in Mid-City For further information contact James Moises: 261-0108, james@bizouwines.com The Cellar on St. Louis is a new project in the works on the Lafitte Greenway in Mid-City. Currently home to wine importers and distributors Bizou Wines, Mystic Vine and also to the St. James Cheese Company, it will also have artist lofts and a commissary, which caterers and food trucks will be able to use. Commenting, James Moises, owner of Moises Wines and Bizou Wines and the founder of The Cellar project, said, “Our warehouse brings food and art into one space and it will also be available for special events. We want to be good residents and part of this community.” – M.C.

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cheryl gerber photograph

Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas, and for sipping, a Sazerac or lemony Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$ NOLA 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, Emerils. com. L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com.

L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. L, D daily.

Granite-topped tables and an antique mahogany bar are home to the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$

H R’evolution 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola.com. L Wed-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the more cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$

H Tujague’s 823 Decatur St., 525-8676,

pasta and pasta jambalaya. $$

TujaguesRestaurant.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

harahan

Mid-City H Liuzza’s 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120,

Oak Oven 6625 Jefferson Highway, Harahan, 305-4039, OakOvenRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Wood-fired pizza and seasonal Italian cuisine with a locavore philosophy brings respite to the burbs. Family friendly with patio seating to boot. $$

Lakeview H Tony Angello’s 6262 Fleur de Lis Drive, 488-0888, TonyAngellos.com. D Tue-Sat. Creole-Italian favorite serves up fare. Ask Tony to “Feed Me” if you want a real multicourse dining experience. $$$$

Metairie H Andrea’s Restaurant 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$ Semolina 4436 Veterans Blvd., Suite 37, 454-7930, Semolina.com. L, D daily. This casual, contemporary pasta restaurant takes a bold approach to cooking Italian food, emphasizing flavors, texture and color. Many of the dishes feature a signature Louisiana twist, such as the muffuletta

Liuzzas.com. L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$ Ralph’s On The Park 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark.com. Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$$

NORTHSHORE H Del Porto Ristorante 501 E. Boston St., (985) 875-1006, DelPortoRistorante. com. L, D Tue-Sat. One of the Northshore’s premier fine dining destinations serving Italian food that makes use of locally sourced meats and produce. $$$

Uptown Amici 3218 Magazine St., 300-1250, AmiciNola.com. L, D daily. Coal-fired pizza is the calling card for this destination, but the menu offers an impressive list of authentic and Creole Italian specialties as well. $$ Pascal’s Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-

4877, PascalsManale.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Vintage neighborhood restaurant since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves icy cold, freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine.com.

L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

Louisianian Fare CBD/Warehouse District H Annunciation 1016 Annunciation St., 568-0245, AnnunciationRestaurant.com.

D Mon-Sat. Chef Steven Manning brings a refined sensibility to this refined Warehouse District oasis along with his famous fried oysters with melted brie. $$$ Balise 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, BaliseNola.com. L Mon-Fri, D nightly. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Decidedly masculine fare – think venison tartare with horseradish and pumpernickel – is carefully crafted and fits well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$ Bon Ton Cafe 401 Magazine St., 524-3386, TheBonTonCafe.com. L, D Mon-Fri. A local favorite for the old-school business lunch crowd specializing in local seafood and Cajun dishes. $$$$

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DINING GUIDE Café Adelaide Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, CafeAdelaide. com. B, D daily, L Mon-Fri. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for business-people and politicos.

Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$

H Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski showcase Cajun and Southern cuisine at this hot spot. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme here, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine from the bar. Reservations strongly recommended. $$ Drago’s Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D daily. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented.

Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$ Emeril’s 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$

H Herbsaint 701 St. Charles Ave., 5244114, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D MonSat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown

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butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$ Mother’s 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long queues and a confounding ordering system to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$ Mulate’s 201 Julia St., 522-1492, Mulates. com. L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palette 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2350, B, L, D daily. Creole, Cajun and French flavors all come together at this restaurant in the Renaissance Hotel near the Convention Center. $$

Central City Café Reconcile 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile.org. L Mon-Fri. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$

Darrow Café Burnside Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$

Latil’s Landing Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane, plantation-style cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$

Faubourg Marigny Feelings Cafe 2600 Chartres St., 9452222, FeelingsCafe.com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Romantic ambiance and skillfully created dishes, such as veal d’aunoy, make dining here on the patio a memorable experience. A piano bar on Fridays adds to the atmosphere. Vegan menu offered. $$$$ Horn’s 1940 Dauphine St., Marigny, 459-4676, HornsNola.com. B, L daily, D Thu-Mon. This casual, eclectic watering hole offers offbeat twists on classics (the Jewish Coonass features latkes to go with the crawfish etouffée) as well as the usual breakfast and lunch diner fare. $ Praline Connection 542 Frenchmen St., 943-3934, PralineConnection.com. L, D daily. Down-home dishes of smothered pork chops, greens, beans and cornbread are on the menu at this Creole soul restaurant. $$

French Quarter Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville St., 5225973, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Antoine’s 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is á la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$

H The Bistreaux New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy.com/dining.html. L, D daily.

Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay Club Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 586-0972, TheBombayClub.com.

D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ Café Maspero 601 Decatur St., 523-6250, CafeMaspero.com. L, D daily. Tourists line up for their generous portions of seafood and large deli sandwiches. $ Court of Two Sisters 613 Royal St., 5227261, CourtOfTwoSisters.com. Br, D daily.

The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$

This quasi-popup operating out of the Erin Rose Bar serves some of the city’s best poor boys, including one featuring glazed pork belly. $

Criollo Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola.com. B, L, D daily.

Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various cultures reflected in Louisiana cooking and cuisine, often with a slight contemporary twist. $$$

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul.com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to a grateful nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse. com. B, L, D daily. Classic Creole dishes such as redfish on the halfshell and baked oysters served. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$

H MiLa 817 Common St., 412-2580, MiLaNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Latest offering from husbandand-wife chefs Slade Rushing and Allison Vines-Rushing focuses on the fusion of the cuisines of Miss. and La. $$$$

Galatoire’s 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame.

Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$

Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant, 301 Dauphine St., 586-0972, RichardFiskes.com. D nightly. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street you can find this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-andBacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$

House of Blues 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues.com/NewOrleans. L, D daily.

Surprisingly good menu complements music in the main room. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$

Royal House, 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$

Killer Poboys 811 Conti St., 252-6745, KillerPoboys.blogspot.com. L, D Wed-Mon.

SoBou 310 Chartres St., 552-4095,

SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tableau 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Gulf seafood such as trout amandine and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Sardou are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre on the corner of Jackson Square. $$$

Kenner Copeland’s 1319 W. Esplanade Ave., 617-9146, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$

Lakeview H Cava 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D Mon-Sat. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$

Metairie/Jefferson Acme Oyster House 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily.

Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Austin’s 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 8885533, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr.

Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Copeland’s 1001 S. Clearview Parkway, 620-7800; 701 Veterans Blvd., 831-3437, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky.

Popular for lunch. $$ Crabby Jack’s 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. L MonSat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s.

Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ Drago’s 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

Mid-City H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity. com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$ Lil’ Dizzy’s Café 1500 Esplanade Ave., 569-8997, LilDizzysCafe.com. B, L daily, Br Sun. Spot local and national politicos dining at this favored Creole soul restaurant known for homey classics like fried chicken and trout Baquet. $

H Mandina’s 3800 Canal St., 482-9179,

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DINING GUIDE MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily.

Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

H Redemption 3835 Iberville St., 3093570, Redemption-Nola.com. L Wed-Fri & Sun, D Wed-Sun. Chef-driven “Revival” Creole fare served in an inspiring former church. $$$ H Toups’ Meatery 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$ NORTHSHORE Acme Oyster House 1202 N. Highway 190, Covington, (985) 246-6155, AcmeOyster. com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Gallagher’s Grill 509 S. Tyler St., (985) 892-9992, GallaghersGrill.com. L, D TueFri, D Sat. Chef Pat Gallagher’s destination restaurant offers al fresco seating to accompany classically inspired New Orleans fare. Event catering offered. $$$

Riverbend H Boucherie 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 8625514, Boucherie-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

Uptown H Apolline 4729 Magazine St., 894-8881, ApollineRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. Cozy gem serves a refined menu of French and Creole classics peppered with Southern influences such as buttermilk fried quail with corn waffle. $$$ Casamento’s 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Thu-Sat. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ Clancy’s 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L Thu-Fri, D MonSat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been

a favorite of locals for years. $$$

Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$

Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com.

L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Award-winner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

Pizza

Dick and Jenny’s 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with a lot of local ingredients at cheap prices. $$

Domilise’s 5240 Annunciation St., 899-912.

L, D Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $

Bywater H Pizza Delicious 617 Piety St., 676-8282,

H Gautreau’s 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations. $$$$$ Jacques-Imo’s Cafe 8324 Oak St., 8610886, Jacques-Imos.com. D Mon-Sat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$ Joey K’s 3001 Magazine St., 891-0997, JoeyKsRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A true neighborhood restaurant with daily lunch plates; red beans and rice are classic. $ Mahony’s 3454 Magazine St., 899-3374, MahonysPoBoys.com. L, D daily. Along with the usual poor boys, this sandwich shop serves up a grilled shrimp and fried green tomato version dressed with remoulade sauce. Sandwich offerings are augmented by a full bar. $ Mat & Naddie’s 937 Leonidas St., 8619600, MatAndNaddies.com. D Mon-Tue, Thu-Sat. Cozy converted house serves up creative and eclectic regionally inspired fare. Shrimp and crawfish croquettes make for a good appetizer and when the weather is right the romantic patio is the place to sit. $$$$

WEST BANK Copeland’s 2333 Manhattan Blvd., 3641575, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp

Reginelli’s Pizzeria Multiple Locations, Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$

PizzaDelicious.com. Authentic New Yorkstyle thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant that began as a pop-up, but they also offer excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes as well. Outdoor seating a plus. $

Uptown H Ancora 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, AncoraPizza.com. D Mon-Sat. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$ Pizza Domenica 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com. L Fri-Sun, D nightly. James Beard Award Winning Chef Alon Shaya’s pizza centric spinoff of his popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitan-style pies to Uptown. Excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$ Slice 1513 St. Charles Ave., 525-PIES (7437); 5538 Magazine St., 897-4800; SlicePizzeria.com. L, D daily. Order up slices or whole pizza pies done in several styles (thin- and thick-crust) as well as pastas, seafood, panini and salads. $

Seafood Akers Middendorf’s Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Highway 51 South, (985) 386-6666, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish fillets. Open since 1934, it’s more than a restaurant, it’s a Sun. drive tradition. $$

Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$

H Pêche 800 Magazine St., 522-1744, PecheRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven. An excellent raw bar is offered as well. $$$ French Quarter Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 5220111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily.

Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood 841 Iberville St., 5811316, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H GW Fins 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$

H Kingfish 337 Charters St., 598-5005, CocktailBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily.

Gulf seafood and nouvelle Creole dishes such as smoked rabbit gumbo are the main draws at this establishment helmed

by Greg Sonnier, as well as the excellent bar program by mixologist Chris McMillian. $$$ Landry’s Seafood 400 N. Peters St., 5580038, LandrysSeafood.com. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$ Le Bayou, 208 Bourbon St., 525-4755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafoodcentric destination on Bourbon Street.

Fried alligator is available for the more daring diner. $$$

CBD/Warehouse District H Borgne 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860,

Oceana Grill 739 Conti St., 525-6002, OceanaGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$

BorgneRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana seafood with an emphasis on

Pier 424, 424 Bourbon St., 309-1574,

Visit Houmas House for Christmas Eve Dinner and Stay at the new Inn Houmas House Plantation: 40136 Highway 942, Darrow, (225) 572-1352, HoumasHouse.com Houmas House Plantation and Gardens, also known as “The Sugar Palace,” has renovated its three restaurants. Latil’s Landing, a fine dining restaurant located in the original mansion dating back to 1775, has a new tasting menu. The new Carriage House Restaurant, which serves dinner every night, has a more casual menu and features produce grown at the plantation and by local farmers. Café Burnside, open daily 11 a.m.-2 p.m., affords an enviable view of the gardens and fountains. For the first time, both Latil’s Landing and the Carriage House Restaurant will be open for Christmas Eve dinner. – M.C.

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cheryl gerber photograph

Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. L, D daily.

Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “CajunBoiled” Lobster prepared crawfish-style in spicy crab boil. $$$

Kenner Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 910 W. Esplanade Ave., Ste. A, 463-3030, AustinsNo.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

Metairie Austin’s Restaurant, 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. D MonSat. Signature steak, seafood and Italian specialties reign at this dinner-only destination. Catering offered as well. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 8314141, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

Serves fried and boiled seafood along with poor boys and daily lunch specials. Kidfriendly with a game room to boot. $$

of meat along with pastas and wines.

Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$

West End

Morton’s The Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, Mortons.com/ NewOrleans. D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$

Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak. com. L Fri, D Sun-Thu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails to accompany classic steakhouse fare as well as inspired dishes like the Gouté 33: horseradish-crusted bone marrow and deviled eggs with crab ravigote and smoked trout. Reservations accepted. $$$

Landry’s Seafood 8000 Lakeshore Drive, West End, 283-1010, LandrysSeafood.com.

Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$

Steakhouse CBD/Warehouse District H Besh Steak Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$ Chophouse New Orleans 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks prepared under a broiler that reaches 1,700 degrees, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse 628 St.

Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo. com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this Mr. John’s offshoot overlooking Lafayette Square, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$

Uptown

H La Boca 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-

Frankie & Johnny’s 321 Arabella St., 2431234, FrankieAndJohnnys.net. L, D daily.

8205, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com.

D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Garden District H Mr. John’s Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. D Tue-Sat, L Friday. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$

French Quarter Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. $$$$$

H Doris Metropolitan 620 Chartres St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. Innovative, genre-busting steakhouse plays with expectations and

Metairie Ruth’s Chris Steak House 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Mid-City H Crescent City Steaks 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D daily. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$

Uptown Charlie’s Steak House 4510 Dryades St., 895-9323, CharliesSteakHouseNola.com. D Tues-Sat. This quintessential New Orleans neighborhood steak house serves up carnivorous delights including its 32-ounce T-Bone in a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere. An upstairs dining room ac-

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DINING GUIDE commodates larger parties with ease. $$$

Vegan/Vegetarian Lower Garden District H The Green Fork 1400 Prytania St., 2677672, GreenForkNola.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Fresh juices, smoothies and vegetarianfriendly fare make The Green Fork a favorite for lovers of healthy food. Catering is offered as well. $$

World Byblos Multiple Locations, ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$

Bywater H Booty’s Street Food 800 Louisa St., 266-2887, BootysNola.com. B, L, D daily.

Street food culled from countries around the globe is the muse of this creative establishment, where papadum from India resides confidently alongside Peruvian ceviche. $$ The Green Goddess 307 Exchange Place, 301-3347, GreenGoddessRestaurant.com.

L, D Wed-Sun. One of the most imaginative local restaurants. The menu is constantly changing, and chef Paul Artigues always has ample vegetarian options. Combine all of that with a fantastic selection of drinks, wine and beer, and it’s the total (albeit small) package. $$

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CBD/Warehouse District Johnny Sanchez 930 Poydras St., 3046615, JohnnySanchezRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Contemporary Mexican mecca offering celebrity chef cachet to go along with the locally sourced produce accompanying the Bistec a la Parilla. Popular happy hour and downtown locale next to South Market District add to the appeal. $$$

H Lüke 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, LukeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br SatSun. Chef John Besh and executive chef Matt Regan serve Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made patés and abundant plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$ Palace Café 605 Canal St., 523-1661, PalaceCafe.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Dickie Brennan-owned brasserie with French-style sidewalk seating and housecreated specialties of chef Darrin Nesbit.

Favorites here include crabmeat cheesecake, turtle soup, the Werlein salad with fried Louisiana oysters and pork “debris” studded Palace potato pie. $$$$$

Faubourg Marigny H Mona’s Café 504 Frenchmen St., 9494115. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet

baklava, round out the menu. $

Faubourg St. John H 1000 Figs 3141 Ponce De Leon St., 301-0848, 1000Figs.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farmto-table alternative to cookie-cutter Middle Eastern places. $$

French Quarter Bayona 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$ El Gato Negro 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$

Kenner H Fiesta Latina 1924 Airline Drive, 4682384, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B, L, D daily. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$

Lakewood H Mizado 5080 Pontchartrain Blvd., 885-5555, MizadoCocina.com. L daily, D Mon-Sat. Sleek restaurant offers modern

Mexican cuisine featuring pan-Latin flavors and influences. Small batch tequila and a ceviche bar make it a party. $$

Lakeview H Mondo 900 Harrison Ave., 224-2633, MondoNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. Make sure to call ahead because the place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$

METAIRIE Vega Tapas Café 2051 Metairie Road, 8362007, VegaTapasCafe.com. D Mon-Sat. Fun, eclectic small plates destination offers creative fare keeps guests coming back with frequent regionally inspired specialty menus served with humor and whimsy. $$

Mid-City Juan’s Flying Burrito 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $ Lola’s 3312 Esplanade Ave., 488-6946, LolasNewOrleans.com. D daily. Garlicky Spanish dishes and great paella make this artsy boîte a hipster destination. $$$

H Milkfish 125 N. Carrollton Ave., 2674199, MilkfishNola.com. L, D Thu-Tue. Filipino cuisine like adobo and lumpia is served, further expanding dining opportunities. $$

H Mona’s Café 3901 Banks St., 482-7743.

L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H Taqueria Guerrero 208 N. Carrollton Ave., 484-6959. B, L, D, Tue-Sat. Friendly staff and authentic Mexican cuisine make this affordable neighborhood restaurant a neighborhood favorite. $

Upper 9th Ward Kebab , 2315 Saint Claude Ave., 3834328, KebabNola.com. L, D Fri-Mon. The menu is short and tasty at this kebab outpost along the revitalized St. Claude Avenue corridor. $

Uptown H Café Abyssinia 3511 Magazine St., 894-6238. L, D daily. One of a just few authentic Ethiopian restaurants in the city, excellent injera and spicy vegetarian fare make this a local favorite. $$

H Irish House 1432 St. Charles Ave., 595-6755, TheIrishHouseNewOrleans. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Irish pub dishes such as shepherd’s pie and fish and chips are featured here, as well as creative cocktails like Irish iced coffee.

Check the schedule of events for live music. $$

Jamila’s Mediterranean Tunisian Cuisine 7808 Maple St., 866-4366. D TueSun. Intimate and exotic bistro serving Mediterranean and Tunisian cuisine. The Grilled Merguez is a Jazz Fest favorite and vegetarian options are offered. $$ Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Mona’s Café 4126 Magazine St., 8949800; 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 861-8174.

L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H Panchita’s 1434 S. Carrollton Ave., 281-4127. L, D daily. Authentic, budgetfriendly Mexican restaurant serves tamales, mole and offers free chips and salsa as well as sangria. $ H Patois 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. The food is French in technique, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau.

Reservations recommended. $$$ H Shaya 4213 Magazine St., 891-4213, ShayaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. James

Beard Award-winning chef Alon Shaya pays homage to his native Israel with this contemporary Israeli hotspot. Fattoush Salad and Matzo Ball Soup made with slow-cooked duck are dishes to try. $$$

Specialty Foods CBD/Warehouse District Calcasieu 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 5882188, CalcasieuRooms.com. For gatherings both large and small, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.

French Quarter Antoine’s Annex 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/Antoines-Annex. Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available.

Metairie

peanut butter and jelly.

Uptown Blue Frog Chocolates 5707 Magazine St., 269-5707, BlueFrogChocolates.com. Open daily, closed Sundays in summer. French and Belgian chocolate truffles and Italian candy flowers make this a great place for gifts.

St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, StJamesCheese. com. Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday.

Sucré 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly.

Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts.

Catering available. n

Sucré 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

Mid-City H Blue Dot Donuts 4301 Canal St., 2184866, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Morgan Packard at Morgan@MyNewOrleans.com.

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Holiday Gifts Guide 1

1- Adler's Jewelry 722 Canal St. | Lakeside Shopping Center (504) 523-5292 | AdlersJewelry.com Celebrate our city with these Adler's Exclusive City Souvenir plate collection that captures iconic New Orleans landmarks, including the French Quarter, St. Charles Avenue Streetcar, Natchez Steamboat and Jackson Square.

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2- AURALUZ 4408 Shores Drive, Metairie (504) 888-3313 | ShopAuraluz.com

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Paparté ... the perfect gift or stocking stuffer for the holidays. Just choose your item, design, color and then they print it in the store to give you Instant Personalization! Just one of the many items you'll find at AURALUZ.

3- Bra Genie Headquarters Store 2881 Highway 190, Mandeville (985) 951-8638 7539 Corporate Blvd., Suite 180, Baton Rouge (225) 223-6114 | TheBraGenie.com Stay comfy and cozy with PJs and loungewear from Bra Genie.

Featured are the PJ Salvage Flannel set, gift boxed at $62 and the Cozy Vest $50 both in sizes XS-XL.

4- Copeland's of New Orleans CopelandsOfNewOrleans.com Give the gift of flavor with a Holiday Set from Copeland’s. Includes their Famous Homemade Biscuit Mix, the Secret Spice Shaker and Copeland’s Creole Hot Sauce, all for just $17.95.

Pick one up today at your local Copeland’s of New Orleans!

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5- Cristy Cali (504) 407-5041 | CristyCali.com Banana trees are a silent beauty adorning several areas of New Orleans. They add a tropical feeling to our city life. Cristy captures their natural beauty and elegance through the art of jewelry. Banana Leaf cuff, starting at $320.

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6- Audubon Nature Institute (504) 861-5105 AudubonInstitute.org/members Wrap up a gift that lasts all year! Audubon Nature Institute Membership features free admission to the Zoo, Aquarium and Butterfly Garden and Insectarium plus discounts and member-only events. Call or visit them online for more information. Get a 13 month membership for the price of 12 (Code: HOLIDAY15).

7- Eclectic Home 8211 Oak St. (504) 866-6654 | EclecticHome.net 7

Milk Glass Vases with Brass accent ring. Each vase is handmade with an uneven rim and will vary in shape, texture, and color. The brass ring will patina over time, making each a truly unique gift choice this holiday season. Small, medium and large sizes are available.

8- Earthsavers 5501 Magazine St. | (504) 899-8555 3301 Veterans Blvd., Suite 140 (504) 835-0225 3414 US Highway 190 | (985) 674-1133

Earthsaversonline.com

MOU: THE HOT NEW BOOT. Celebs love them and we do, too. Classic sheepskin boots in assorted colors and sizes. So so so comfortable with the added bonus of hidden wedges.

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9- Fleur D’Orleans 3701A Magazine St. | (504) 899-5585 818 Chartres St. | (504) 475-5254

FleurDOrleans.com

Great stocking stuffers. These earrings inspired by the U.S. Customs House gate, sterling silver plated brass, $31. Celebrate the architectural heritage of New Orleans this holiday season.

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10- Wellington & Company, LLC 505 Royal St. (504) 525-4855 | WCJewelry.com The Daniel Wellington watch is without a doubt suitable for any occasion. Regardless if you are attending a black-tie event, playing a game of tennis or enjoying a sunny day at the beach club – the Daniel Wellington is a beautiful companion.

11- Grandmother’s Buttons 2105 Magazine St. (504) 249-5821

GrandmothersButtons.com

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Come in for their one-of-a-kind, Louisiana-made antique button jewelry (like the Mahalia necklace/ bracelet combo and earrings shown here), and leave with something for almost everyone on your list: from sweaters to scarves, books to candles, apothecary for women and men, they have the rare and whimsical finds you’re looking for.

12- Boudreaux's Jewelers 701 Metairie Road, Metairie (504) 831-2602

BoudreauxsJewelers.com

Tacori Dantela Collection engagement ring shown with a round brilliant cut center diamond available in 18 karat White, Yellow or Rose Gold as well as Platinum.

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ADVERTISING SECTION 13- Konnie’s Gift Depot 859 Brownswitch Road, Slidell (985) 643-8000

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“Bird of Paradise” by Circle E Candles has been a perennial favorite fragrance for many years among candle fans. Bird of Paradise is a magical blend that defies description – an all time favorite.

Available in long burning, 28oz. and 12oz. sizes, Circle E Candles are hand poured in attractive heavy glass jars. See Bird of Paradise as well as the other Circle E fragrances at Konnie's Gift Depot in the “Country Club Plaza”.

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14- Good Feet® 539 Bienville St., French Quarter (504) 875-2929 5525 Magazine St., Uptown (504) 324-7718 3000 Severn Ave., Metairie (504) 888-7080

NolaShoes.com

Find relief from foot, leg and back pain this holiday season with Good Feet® orthotics and popular comfort shoe brands such as Naot, Birkenstock, New Balance, Dansko, KEEN, Vionic and more. Complimentary personal consultations seven days a week.

15- PERLIS CLOTHING New Orleans • French Quarter Mandeville • Baton Rouge (800) 725-6055 | Perlis.com

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A classic Mardi Gras rugby shirt from PERLIS for the Carnival season.

It's 100% cotton, made in the USA and available in three different patterns. Sizes adult XS-XXL, toddler and youth while supplies last!

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16- Lisette L Montreal 9250 Av du Parc #300, Montréal, QC H2N 1Z2, Canada (855) 547-3883 | LisetteL.com From capris to boot cuts, skinnies, flares and straights, you'll find your perfect fit at Lisette L Montreal. All styles made with Lisette L Montreal's exclusive waistband, slimming the lower abdomen, contouring the hips and shaping the behind. Visit LisetteL. com and their Store Locator to find your fine local Lisette L Montreal Retailer.

17- Yvonne LaFleur Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Thursdays 'til 8 p.m.

8131 Hampson St. (504) 866-9666 | YvonneLaFleur.com Yvonne LaFleur has gifts for every woman on your holiday list. Each year she extends special shopping evenings from 5 to 8 on Thursdays between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Enjoy champagne, models, and expert assistance in selecting gowns and presents complimentary gift-wrapped.

Gift selections include Yvonne LaFleur signature fragrance products, furs, cashmere sweaters, lingerie, formal gowns, jewelry, handbags and scarves.

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16- M. Goldberg Clothier 502 Tchoupitoulas at Leontine Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

(504) 891-1119 Barbour’s high quality, durable and timeless style jackets are designed for layering and comfort that will last for many years. M. Goldberg offers the largest selection of men’s and women’s Barbour in the region.

Available in an assortment of styles and colors.

17- Luna Press French Quarter Fables: Volume II Written and illustrated by Dalt Wonk Available at local bookstores and

LunaPress.com Great fables never die. They’re too much fun. Aesop said “Sour grapes!” in 600 B.C. We still say it. French Quarter Fables are fun and fascinating. You’ll know these creatures and their dilemmas with 19 brief tales and 38 beautiful fullcolored illustrations. A perfect gift or treat. 115 pages. $25.

18- Mignon Faget Lakeside Shopping Center

MignonFaget.com Hardwear transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary by examining the links of industrial chain. Visit Mignon Faget at Lakeside Mall.

Pictured: Hardwear Chain Link Wide CuffSterling Silver and Chalcedony, $600.

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19- QUEORK 838 Chartres St. (504) 481-4910 | Queork.com Unisex Messenger Bag $189: Great for everyday or travels, this bag features 3 interior sections and one outside zipper. Money Clip Wallet $39: Even Neil Patrick Harris bought one! Features two exterior pockets, a money clip and several interior pockets yet remains slim and lightweight.

20- Preservation Tile Co. PreservationTiles.com

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The most popular gift item this season! Local artist Danny Chinn recreates historic New Orleans street tiles by hand. No two are alike to ensure a unique collection.

Each comes framed and ready to hang. Give a piece of history and share in the spirit of New Orleans and its local art.

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ADVERTISING SECTION 21- Q&C Hotel/Bar 344 Camp St. (504) 587-9700 | QandC.com Give the gift of a New Orleans staycation at Q&C Hotel/Bar – an award-winning, recently renovated boutique hotel in the heart of downtown. Tucked perfectly between the French Quarter and the Warehouse District, Q&C is the perfect launching pad for your holiday escapades – no matter what you’re seeking.

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22- SÖPÖ New Orleans 629 N. Carrollton Ave. (504) 609-2429 | soponola.com If you live here, chances are you love whiskey. Smell the part with Commodity Whiskey eau du parfum: unisex, delicious, and hangoverfree. 2.33oz $115, 0.33oz travel spray, $29.

23- St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St. (504) 899-4737 and new location: 641 Tchoupitoulas St. The Avenue Gift Box

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A great big box of our favorite cheeses, salami, local chocolates and accompaniments. The perfect gift for that person for whom presents are incredibly difficult to buy, because everyone loves a nice box of tasty goodies. Order at StJamesCheese.com.

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24- Symmetry 8138 Hampson St. (504) 861-9925

SymmetryJewelers.com The piece was created in the Victorian era, but this 18 karat yellow gold necklace created with red coral and rose cut diamonds appears to have both an Art Nouveau and Art Deco feel. The necklace is just part of the extensive vintage collection at Symmetry.

25- Trashy Diva 2048 Magazine St. 537 Royal St. (504) 299-3939 | TrashyDiva.com Naughty or nice? With the Stella McCartney Isabel Floating set, you won’t have to decide! This vintageinspired longline bra and matching thong provide effortlessly sexy support without compromising style – perfect for the Diva who wants it all.

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New Orleans City Park Celebration in the Oaks

Food, Family, and Fun for the Holidays H

olidays are the time for family togetherness, whether that means taking the kids to see twinkling lights and Santa, sitting down with the grandparents at a traditional Creole Reveillon meal, catching up with the cousins over drinks and live music or even hosting a company party for your family or employees. The winter weather ushers friends and families into restaurants replete with seasonal specials, and local events and activities abound with holiday-inspired arts and entertainment. Relish annual traditions and start others this year by exploring celebrated new restaurants, revisiting an old haunts and indulging in the vibrant culture of New Orleans during wintertime. From brunches, lunches and dinners to annual festivals, shopping, travel and events, the following destinations and activities are sure to keep you busy through December and into the New Year.

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Holiday Season Dining Palace Café has long been a destination for gathering with friends during the holidays. From their jingle bell lunch tradition to their multi-course Reveillon dinners, Palace Café hits all the right notes to get you in the spirit of the season. After completing a large renovation over the summer, Palace Café has created yet another cozy space to gather: The second-floor rum bar. Sip seasonal cocktails and snack on small plates and house-made charcuterie while enjoying the festively decorated restaurant. The bar features over 120 different rum selections and also offers a complete bar for bourbon, gin or vodka lovers. Looking for more than a cocktail and a bite? Have your party in the main dining room and enjoy favorites like the crabmeat cheesecake, andouille crusted fish and white chocolate bread pudding.

Palace Café remains a top holiday destination for food and drink! For more information and to schedule reservations, visit PalaceCafe.com or call 504-523-1661.

Red Gravy, Cacciucco

Feast of the 7 Fishes, a Southern Italian tradition honoring the seven sacraments, is a Christmas Eve celebration that in Italian households is often a bigger affair than Christmas Day. Historically, Italian families would attend midnight Mass following the feast, and then return home to platters of sausage and peppers, cheeses, cookies, wine and the opening of presents.

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One of New Orleans’ most popular destinations for richly flavored, authentic Italian cuisine, Red Gravy will host its third annual Feast of the 7 Fishes Dec. 17-18 (the restaurant isn’t open on Christmas Eve.) Guests can expect five to six tasting courses, featuring such seafood as mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari, baccala, anchovies, sardines and flounder.

“We always end the feast with strufoli, which are small balls of fried dough that are then bathed in honey,” says owner Roseann Melisi Rostoker.

The Feast will be offered for $80 per person and includes a complimentary glass of prosecco and also a complimentary glass of dessert wine.

For details and to make reservations, call 504-561-8844. For regular menus and more, visit RedGravyCafe.com.

Celebrate the holiday season this December within the historical walls of the oldest family-run restaurant in the country, Antoine’s Restaurant.

This charming, acclaimed and regal French-Creole restaurant continues to celebrate its 175th year of French Quarter service with special events and menus.

This month, visit Antoine’s for a special holiday brunch. The festive $32 jazz brunch includes a complimentary mimosa and your choice of appetizer, entrée and dessert. A special guest will be greeting brunch goers and their families on certain days: Santa Claus will be on hand to greet guests Dec. 6, 13 and 20.

The three-course brunch is available for groups of 15 or less, and is exclusive of tax, gratuity and additional alcohol. With the exception of a few dates, Antoine’s will feature its traditional Reveillon dinner menu throughout December, featuring charbroiled oysters or Creole gumbo, a Noel salad, your choice of entrée (chicken with champagne mushroom sauce or stuffed Louisiana drum) and a decadent dessert of eggnog bread pudding with praline rum sauce or raspberry chocolate mousse.

For more info and to make reservations, visit Antoines.com or call 504-581-4422.

With diverse culinary backgrounds, Will and Kinsey Varas bring a unique, flavorful “Casian” menu to Old Metairie with CoNola Grill & Sushi, a homegrown Southern café with a full-service sushi bar. The couple has transitioned the former Sun Ray Grill to feature their

culinary strengths with a diverse menu of creative spins on local favorites and a skillful take on sushi.

“I’m from Mississippi and wanted to do something pertaining to my background with southern comfort and Cajun food, but I am also a sushi chef and wanted to continue offering a full sushi bar,” says Will Varas. Some favorites from CoNola’s Grill menu include root beer braised short ribs, meatloaf with bourbon demi glace and rosemary BBQ shrimp & grits served over jalapeño cheese grits. Popular sushi menu selections include the salmon carpaccio small plate and the signature Blushing Geisha roll (beet cured salmon, avocado, pico de gallo, mixed greens and jalapeño cream cheese with cilantro oil).

CoNola Grill & Sushi is able to accommodate private parties of various sizes. For additional information and menus, visit CoNolaGrillSushi.com.

For a uniquely Creole holiday experience, visit The Court of Two Sisters at historic 613 Rue Royale in the French Quarter. In true Creole fashion, this award-winning restaurant will uphold the tradition of the Creole Reveillon holiday meal.

This year’s famous Reveillon menu at The Court of Two Sisters begins with turtle soup au sherry, followed by your choice of fried green tomato salad with boiled shrimp, greens and remoulade sauce or a Court of Two Sisters salad.

Entrée choices include crab Benedict (an English muffin topped with Louisiana crabmeat, poached egg and hollandaise); the grilled pork chop with sautéed apples, kale and brown butter; the redfish Creole with steamed rice; and traditional grits & grillades. The menu concludes on a sweet note with a delicious eggnog crème brûlée. Coffee and tea are included. The menu runs Dec. 1-24 for only $45 per person.

Return to The Court of Two Sisters on New Year’s Eve and ring in the New Year with a spectacular multicourse meal. Call 504-522-7261 or visit CourtofTwoSisters.com for reservations.

Five Happiness, New Orleans’s awardwinning Chinese restaurant, offers a delicious menu of Sichuan and Hunan specialties in a recently renovated sleek and elegant dining room. Enjoy the succulent shrimp with honey roasted pecans, General’s chicken or asparagus sautéed with garlic sauce in a comfortable and unique setting myneworleans.com / DECEMBER 2015

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Annunciation Restaurant

distinguished by its authentic Chinese décor of etched glass and Chinese paintings. The dining room, now split into three rooms, provides a more private dining experience for guests.

The well-known and affordable Imperial Room is available at Five Happiness for private parties, receptions or other functions and holds from 50-150 people. Serving options are customized for each party, ranging from sit-down dinners to buffets or cocktails with hors d’oeuvres and prices ranging from $20-$45 per person.

For those not wanting to cook during the holidays, Five Happiness happily serves lunch and dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. For more information, call 504-4823935 or visit FiveHappiness.com.

With skillfully crafted cocktails, fine wines and an assortment of classic and contemporary Cajun and Creole dishes, Annunciation Restaurant is the ideal spot for celebrating a special occasion, entertaining a group of important clients, or simply unwinding after a hectic day.

Relax amidst flickering candles and crisp white tablecloths in an upscale bistro setting. This lovingly restored turn of the century warehouse with exposed brick and modern flair presents an elegant dining atmosphere. Annunciation’s menu features the freshest seafood and local ingredients, constantly changing with the seasons. Rest assured, your satisfaction with the food and service will always be the top concern.

Allow Annunciation to host your next event in their private dining area. With its sophisticated bar and lounge and adjacent, airy dining room, it’s the perfect spot to host a family event, business meeting or any special celebration.

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Restaurant will make it pleasurable and memorable.

For more info or to schedule a reservation, visit AnnunciationRestaurant.com or call 504-568-0245.

Salon is the culmination of Sucré’s beautiful approach to haute cuisine and passion for exceptional service. Salon blends the time-honored formality of New Orleans service with the exquisite cuisine of chef Tariq Hanna in a casual French mid-century modern dining room. Salon features an array of dining experiences with a modern tea service, lite lunch and brunch during afternoons. In the evening, to start, guests can enjoy amuse plates, charcuterie and fromage selections. The Savory menu features dishes from duck, scallops and foie gras to carpaccio, mussels and mushroom lasagna. Don’t overlook the Sweet menu, as each dessert is an elevation from your traditional Sucré fare, with creative takes on rice pudding, opera cake, soufflé and more.

The restaurant, currently closed on Monday and Tuesday, is above the Sucré retail boutique at 622 Conti St., and is open for lunch (11 a.m.-4 p.m.), bar snack service (4-5 p.m.), and dinner (5-10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday and 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday). Private events are welcome, with the option of renting out the entire space or certain areas.

To learn more and schedule your event, email reservation@ shopsucre.com or call 504-267-7098.

Rice serves as a crucial yet often under-emphasized component of Cajun cuisine, providing the soft yet subtle base for everything from jambalaya, etouffee and gumbo to shrimp Creole, alligator sauce piquante, redfish courtbouillon and – of course – red beans. This holiday season, elevate your

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Breads on Oak

home cooking with rice produced here at home by the local experts of Falcon Rice Mill.

As the manufacturer of Cajun Country Rice, Falcon Rice Mill, located in Crowley, Louisiana, is one of the state’s few rice mills still run by the original family. Whether it’s firm long grain, tender medium grain, healthy whole grain brown or the slightly distinctive aroma of their popcorn rice or Jasmine rice, Cajun Country has been the leading brand of rice in Louisiana for those that demand quality products when cooking delicious meals. Falcon Rice Mill also produces quality rice products such as Toro, Falcon, Home Country, Laredo and Jackpot.

For information on cooking rice, nutrition facts, a variety of recipes, or to purchase Cajun Country Rice for your holiday meals with family and friends, visit CajunCountryRice.com.

Every year in New Orleans, locals tell chef Andrea Apuzzo, chef-proprietor of Andrea’s Restaurant, how excited they are about the restaurant’s four-course Fall & Reveillon menu.

Offered through Dec. 31, this special $55 menu ($90 with wine included) features such starters as antipasto Andrea, tortellone All’Anita (housemade pasta stuffed with duck and topped with demi-glace sage sauce) and staciatella zuppa or tomato mozzarella Caprese. Made with the freshest ingredients, chef Andrea’s entrées include roasted tender rabbit or pheasant, pan seared squab, sautéed venison or red snapper and grilled beef T-bone. A dessert of chestnut cake served with Nocello sauce satisfies any sweet tooth.

Andrea’s Restaurant, located in Metairie, will be open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, and the restaurant will host a New Year’s Eve party complete with live music and a dance floor. Open for 31 years, Andrea’s uses Louisiana ingredients and proudly makes their own pastas 114

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and pastries. The restaurant is available for banquets and special events, as well as for catering your holiday party. For more information and reservations, call 504-834-8583 or visit AndreasRestaurant.com.

Celebrate the holidays with family and friends at New Orleans Creole Cookery. Savor authentic Creole dishes

prepared by renowned chef Alex Patout and relish the timehonored tastes of classic Creole favorites such as gumbo, shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée and snapper Pontchartrain.

New Orleans Creole Cookery is everything you love about New Orleans in a setting to fit every occasion. Enjoy casual fine dining at its very best in your choice of the charming Toulouse Lautrec dining room, romantic courtyard or lively oyster bar. Each offers a Creole-inspired menu complemented by tempting handcrafted cocktails from the bar. Located at 510 Toulouse St., in one of New Orleans’ oldest and most storied locations, New Orleans Creole Cookery is just steps from holiday festivities in the French Quarter, including the annual New Year’s Eve fleur-de-lis drop and riverfront fireworks.

New Orleans Creole Cookery is open seven days a week 11 a.m.10 p.m. for lunch and dinner, and a jazz brunch on Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Learn more at NewOrleansCreoleCookery. com. Call 504-524-9632 for reservations.

Broussard’s Restaurant continues the celebration of its 95th anniversary this holiday season with a traditional Reveillon menu available throughout the month of December.

Executive chef Neal Swidler shares his culinary creativity with a festive holiday meal including, for starters, a choice of pistachio pâté campagne, brandied duck liver mousse

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and pork rillettes or gravlax dill cured salmon, choupique caviar deviled egg and truffle leek and wild mushroom salad, followed by a traditional turtle soup au sherry or seasonal butternut squash bisque.

Chef Swidler’s entrées are bold – Burgundy braised lamb shank with blue cheese risotto and pepper jelly haricots, or yellowfin tuna “Dianne” on roasted garlic whipped potatoes with wild mushroom duxelles and brandy green peppercorn cream. And finish it off with sticky toffee bread pudding or pumpkin cheesecake.

For more information on Broussard’s and its brunch, lunch, dinner or Reveillon menu, please visit Broussards.com or call 504-581-3866 to make reservations.

Housed Uptown on Oak Street, Breads on Oak is New Orleans’ only organic bakery and café. Artisan baker Sean O’Mahony combines passion and skill in each creation, making everything by hand, from scratch and using the finest organic ingredients. Each bread, pastry, cake and quiche is baked on the premises in open view of the customers in a stone hearth oven. The bakery’s signature bread is the Old World Miche, a low-gluten sourdough made with a wild starter.

Stop in to the aromatic café for fresh sandwiches made on its fresh-baked breads, house-made soups with local ingredients, lunch pies such as quiches and cashew ricotta tarts, and a nice selection of vegan and gluten-free options. The café recently expanded seating, nearly doubling capacity, and now offers beer and wine as well as weekend mimosa specials. Arrive early for half price until 10:30 a.m.!

For more information and to view the vast menu, visit BreadsOnOak.com or call 504-324-8271. Hours are WednesdaySaturday, 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m., and Sunday, 7:30 a.m.-1 p.m.

This holiday season, stop by any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink®.

Also, enjoy a Hand Grenade at Funky Pirate Blues Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/Zydeco & the Blues with Tropical Isle’s nightly entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-of-the-art sound systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate and the Bayou Club. While you’re there, ask about the new Hand Grenade® Martini! Enjoy big screen TVs at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit TropicalIsle.com.

For a quiet escape, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Ave., which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass, plus a Bacon Happy Hour! For sample menus and wine lists, visit OrleansGrapevine.com.

The holidays are happening at a number of Ralph Brennan restaurants, with fun-filled family activities and once-a-year dining opportunities.

On Mon., Dec. 21, enjoy Breakfast at Brennan’s with Santa 10 a.m.-1 p.m. The event ($55 for adults, $35 for children) includes a three-course breakfast, snow in the courtyard, photo opportunities with Santa, cookie decorating, reindeer

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games, holiday jingle bells and a special holiday takeaway.

Call 504-525-9711 for reservations.

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Red Fish Grill’s Executive Chef Austin Kirzner and Executive Pastry Chef Brett Gauthier will host Gingerbread Workshops on Saturdays Dec. 5 and 12, 9:30 a.m.-12 p.m. The $55 “kit” includes three seats, a gingerbread house, decorations, chef’s hat, crayons, jingle bells and child’s T-shirt. Santa and his elf will make a guest appearance. Call 504-598-1200 for reservations.

Café B hosts Brunch with Santa on Saturdays, Dec. 12 and 19, 9:30 a.m.-12 p.m. With a three-course brunch for adults ($35) and a two-course brunch for kids ($20), the festive event includes activities for kids and treats for all. Call 504-934-4700 for reservations.

Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam and other South-Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, pad Thai, sushi, General Tso’s chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp and more. Open daily until 2 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late-night spot for locals and visitors alike. Visitors can look forward to the addition of sharable small plates to the menu in the near future.

Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone.

Salt & Pepper shrimp and seared Ahi tuna are a couple of Hoshun’s seafood specialties, while butter pepper mignon offers a meatier possibility.

For menu and information, visit HoshunRestaurant.com or call 504-302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Ave., Hoshun

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offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting 25-70 people.

Family Fun: Arts & Entertainment Gather your family to celebrate beloved holiday traditions and make new memories at the Louisiana Children’s Museum, located at 420 Julia St. Stroll the ongoing Festival of Trees, a festive collection of whimsical holiday trees created by local schools, artists and community partners.

On Sat., Dec. 5, don’t miss Festival of Trees Family Fun Day Patron Brunch and Pajama Party. The Patron Brunch from 10 a.m.-12 p.m. begins with a delicious breakfast compliments of LePavillon Hotel, a visit from Mr. Bingle and keepsake family photographs. Victorian carolers will entertain, followed by a special holiday performance. After brunch, the Fun Day continues with festivities including music, crafts, cookie decorating, holiday games and more.

Patron Brunch tickets are $20 per person; Fun Day tickets (12-4:30 p.m.) are $15 per person.

On Dec. 31, ring in the New Year at noon! Design a oneof-a-kind paper bag party hat and festive noisemaker, enjoy live music and join Sesame Street’s “The Count” for the noon countdown to 2016 with a confetti toss and balloon release.

Tickets are $10 per person. For more information and to preregister for events, go to LCM.org.

This holiday season, celebrate with friends and family in beautiful Bayou Lafourche. Visit with Santa Clause during the annual Lockport Tree Lighting in Bayou Side Park on Sat.,

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Dec. 5. On Sun., Dec. 6, the Lockport Christmas Parade will celebrate the season with Papa Noel. Santa will also make an appearance the same day at the Thibodaux Christmas Fest throughout downtown Thibodaux.

“Get ready for Mardi Gras 2016! When it comes to Mardi Gras spirit, the people and parades of Bayou Lafourche are tough to beat. From the Ambrosia in Thibodaux at the beginning of Carnival season, all the way to the Neptune in Golden Meadow on Fat Tuesday two weeks later, you’ll experience Mardi Gras in a way that only the bayou can provide. Enjoy 17 family-friendly parades with a New Orleans flair, and you’ll always be able to find a great spot to view the beautiful floats, stunningly adorned krewe kings and queens and, of course, catch more beads, cups and trinkets than you can carry.

Plan your visit at VisitLafourche.com.

This year, NOLA ChristmasFest brings a holiday experience to New Orleans that hasn’t been seen since the 1980s: an indoor ice rink! Made of real ice, the wintery wonderland extends 50-by-80 feet, and while skaters are welcome to bring their own skates, a wide range of sizes will be available onsite at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center.

The 10-day holiday celebration, Dec. 18-27, will feature a mile of outdoor lights and indoor Christmas activities for the entire family. Santa, Mrs. Claus, Rudolph and friends will be there for autographs, and professional photographers will be on hand to capture holiday memories.

The indoor ice-skating rink, Kringle Carousel, carnival rides and inflatables, Amazing Funhouse Maze and crafts

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await children during holiday break, and all are included in the All-Access ticket price. To learn about ticket packages for adults, students and children, as well as nearby parking discounts, visit NOLAChristmasFest.com.

Delta Festival Ballet’s 33rd annual Nutcracker | Photo: Angela Sterling

For Delta Festival Ballet’s 34th annual production of The Nutcracker, guest artists Irina Sapozhnikova (Sugar Plum Fairy) and Joseph Phillips (Cavalier) will be traveling directly from The State Primorsky Opera and Ballet Theater in Vladivostok, Russia, to New Orleans for their only American performance this season. They will be joined by DFB’s outstanding local professionals and the Youth Corps of over 100 young dancers from the Greater New Orleans Area.

The production is helmed by Artistic Directors, Joseph and Maria Giacobbe, who have produced and directed DFB’s The Nutcracker since 1981. They are assisted by Ballet Master Richard Rholdon. Performed to live accompaniment by the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra conducted

by Glenn Langdon, this classic ballet is a mustsee New Orleans Christmas tradition.

Performances will be held at Tulane University’s Dixon Hall on Dec. 18 at 7 p.m. and Dec. 19-20 at 2 p.m. Tickets can be purchased online at DeltaFestivalBallet.com.

Founded in 1929, Metairie Park Country Day School believes that today’s world demands more than a traditional education; it demands the values and practices that have made Country Day unique since its inception. An innovative, hands-on approach teaches Pre-K through grade 12 students how to think creatively and independently as they tackle an expansive, rigorous curriculum. High academic standards and expectations of personal accountability are sustained by a nurturing community, a low student-to-teacher ratio, robust athletics and outstanding creative arts programs.

The Country Day faculty focus on individual achievement through depth of inquiry rather than mere recitation of facts and ensure that every child’s educational experience is exceptional. The successes of the school’s graduates in college and beyond are testimony to the curiosity, involvement and creativity engendered by the Country Day philosophy and community.

Visit an Admission Open House or email admissions@mpcds.com for a private tour Monday-Friday.

Open House for K-5 is Jan. 14, and Grades 6-12 Open House is Jan. 21. Visit mpcds.com for more.

Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans (PRC) presents its 40th Annual Holiday Home Tour Sat., Dec. 12, and Sun., Dec. 13. Eight Garden District homes, plus a bonus house, are open for self-guided tours, showcasing history and architecture to the tunes of talented New Orleans musicians. The tour also includes an extensive holiday boutique featuring dozens of local artists, craftsmen and retailers as well as regional cuisine at Trinity Episcopal Church.

As always, the Holiday Home Tour helps fund PRC in restoring, rebuilding and revitalizing New Orleans’ historic architecture and neighborhoods. Founded in 1974, PRC

is a nonprofit organization that has restored nearly 1,500 properties citywide and has assisted countless individuals with their own renovation efforts through outreach and advocacy programs.

Advance tour ticket prices start at $30 for PRC members and groups of 10 or more and $40 for non-members. Day-of tickets may be purchased at Trinity Episcopal Church for $45. Tickets are valid for either day or both days during the weekend. To purchase tickets or for more information, call 504-581-7032 or visit PRCNo.org. Find PRC on Facebook, Twitter (@PRCNO), Instagram, Flickr and Pinterest.

Celebration in the Oaks in City Park is the most spectacular holiday lights festival in the country. City Park’s famous oaks are swathed in over a million twinkling lights with breathtaking light displays placed throughout 25 acres of the Park, including the Botanical Garden, Storyland and Carousel Gardens.

New Orleans’ mild winter weather and City Park’s stunning landscape with its oak groves, moss-covered cypresses and meandering lagoons make Celebration in the Oaks a spectacular holiday event. This beloved annual celebration is fun for all ages and has become an enduring holiday tradition for families. Visitors experience a range of attractions, from light displays and walkways lined with Christmas trees to rides on the holiday train and historic Carousel.

Celebration in the Oaks runs now through Jan. 2. The event is closed Nov. 30 through Dec. 3 as well as on Christmas Eve

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Guided by a new name and mission, the Newcomb Art Museum of Tulane University presents original exhibitions that explore socially engaged art, civic dialogue, and community transformation. As an entity of an academic institution, the museum utilizes the frameworks of diverse disciplines in conceptualizing and interpreting art and design.

Currently on display through Jan. 3, the museum presents A Shared Space: KAWS, Karl Wirsum, and Tomoo Gokita. The exhibition presents new work by KAWS, one of the most relevant artists of his generation, alongside pieces from his private collection.

The museum is open Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Learn more at NewcombArtMuseum.tulane.edu or call 504-865-5328.

The museum and its programs are free and open to the public.

Holiday Travel & Leisure Make your holidays Grand. For more than 165 years, The Grand Hotel Marriott Resort, Golf Club & Spa has been

Celebration in the Oaks

and New Year’s Eve. Hours are Sunday-Thursday, 6-10 p.m., and Friday-Saturday, 6-11 p.m. For more information, visit CelebrationInTheOaks.com.

Six blocks of decorations adorn the lower French Quarter in the French Market District, from the lit balcony wreaths at the Shops at the Upper Pontalba and the 27-foot, fleur-de-lis topped tree at Washington Artillery Park across from Jackson Square to the elegant garlands along the Colonnade on Decatur Street from Café du Monde to The Market Café.

Inside the Farmers and Flea Market, find oversized Christmas ornaments and garlands hanging in the aisle, adding a festive flavor to the already colorful, inviting atmosphere. Shops at the Upper Pontalba and the Shops at the Colonnade are open daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., and arts and crafts vendors in the Farmers and Flea Market prepare special items just for the season.

Special events for the whole family include the annual tree lighting at Washington Artillery Park across from Jackson Square on Thurs., Nov. 19, and the St. Nicholas Day Fair in Dutch Alley on Sat., Dec. 5. The French Market is open daily.

For more news and events, visit FrenchMarket.org.

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known throughout the South as “The Queen of Southern Resorts,” and it never looks better than during the holidays. From massive live oaks covered in lights to the giant gingerbread replica of the resort, take a holiday escape to the Grand Hotel in Point Clear, Alabama. Enjoy a round of FootGolf, shop beautiful Fairhope, warm up at a family bonfire, and delight in spectacular meals. Grand holidays are an easy drive on I-10. Kids love breakfast with Santa on December Saturdays, and parents escape holiday stress at The Grand’s award-winning spa.

The Grand Hotel has been honored recently as a top resort by CondeNast Traveler, Successful Meetings, and ConventionSouth. The Grand boasts two Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail courses, a 20,000-square-foot European-style spa, indoor and outdoor feature pools and tennis. To make your holiday brighter, visit GrandHotelMarriott.com or call 251-928-9201.

Travelers in the Gulf and Mid-South region know too well the over-reliance on long road travel and lengthy, expensive layovers when traveling between the region’s cities. After years in the making, business and leisure travelers, including holiday travelers, now have a quality and economical alternative to reach the Southern markets of Shreveport, Louisiana, Little Rock, Arkansas, and Memphis, Tennessee.

Locally owned, GLO addresses travelers’ needs by offering daily, non-stop services between these cities and its base in New Orleans at Louis Armstrong International Airport.

While businesspeople will see an exponential increase in productivity, leisure travelers will be able to enjoy more of their time visiting their destinations, whether for recreation or family visits, with a dramatic reduction in travel time. GLO will also have daily non-stop flights on Saturdays and Sundays.

GLO is currently flying to and from Little Rock and Memphis, and flights to Shreveport begin Dec. 14. Book your travel today at FlyGLO.com. •

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Hospital Buzz N

ew Orleans residents are fortunate to have so many award-winning medical institutions right here at home, from specialized hospitals dedicated to mental health or surgery to comprehensive medical centers that treat everything from a cancer diagnosis to broken bones or sinus infections. Continually improving services with new technologies, advancing research through trials and offering more minimally invasive treatments are part of many changes that occur throughout the months and years, and keeping up with area news can help improve the care you seek. Knowing where to go, what physicians to see and the ability to ask the right questions may mean the difference between a quick diagnosis and treatment versus lingering questions and uncertainty. Here is the latest from a few regional healthcare providers that touches on behavioral health, a new medical degree program, convenient diagnostics and more.

River Oaks Hospital is the only freestanding psychiatric facility on the New Orleans Southshore that has programming for ages 6 through adulthood. They currently offer a statecertified school to patients 6-12 and will soon offer the same program to all patients under 18 years. River Oaks currently has the only inpatient trauma and inpatient eating disorders program in the state. Access to over eight psychiatrists gives River Oaks the ability to care for patients in their five separate inpatient programs and two options for day treatment programming.

In an effort to help treat as much of the community as possible, River Oaks contracts with a variety of privately managed health care plans in addition to Tricare, VA and Medicare.

For information on criteria for admissions, a confidential assessment, or to have your benefits verified, call 504-7341740 or visit RiverOaksHospital.com.

In 2008, The University of Queensland School of Medicine, located in Brisbane, Australia, partnered with Louisiana’s Ochsner Health System to form a one-of-a-kind, global education program that offers the opportunity for United States students to earn a four-year Doctor of Medicine (MD) degree from The University of Queensland. Students spend 122

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the first two years (pre-clinical) of Medical School in Brisbane on UQ’s campuses and the final two years (clinical) at the Ochsner Health System in New Orleans.

The inaugural UQ-Ochsner cohort commenced their medical degree in 2009, and in 2012, 100 percent of the graduates matched to residency programs throughout the United States. This year, Ochsner Health System congratulates its most recent graduating class of 63 students whose culmination ceremony took place last month.

With four classes under the program’s belt, both UQ and Ochsner are able to boast a 90 percent residency match rate, with 48 percent remaining in Louisiana for residency and 48 percent choosing Primary Care specialties. Students come from a variety of undergraduate schools, including New York University and the University of California system, and 77 percent participate in community outreach.

For more information on the Ochsner Clinical School, visit Academics.Ochsner.org.

East Jefferson General Hospital provides diagnostic imaging and primary care physicians in their convenient Lakeview location. EJGH Lakeview is located at 7050 Canal Blvd., just off of Robert E. Lee. And if you need diagnostic imaging built around your busy schedule, remember that EJGH offers 24/7 diagnostic convenience at their main campus location.

EJGH offers low-dose technologies, MRI goggles to prevent claustrophobia, 3D Mammography and radiologists who subspecialize in specific diseases or anatomies to ensure you the best, most reliable experience possible. For more information and appointments, call EJGH Lakeview at 504-503-6750.

West Jefferson Medical Center is now a proud member of the LCMC Health system, which manages Children’s Hospital, Touro, New Orleans East Hospital and University Medical Center. Over the past 55 years, West Jefferson has evolved into the world-class institution it is today, garnering accolades for patient-care excellence. Its recent awards include Get With The Guidelines® Target: Stroke Honor Roll-Elite Quality Achievement Award by the American Heart Association (AHA)/American Stroke Association for the treatment of stroke patients, Get With The Guidelines®–Heart Failure Silver Quality Achievement Award for the successful treatment of stroke patients, and their hospital‐based EMS received AHA’s Mission: Lifeline® EMS Gold Award for the treatment of patients who experience severe heart attacks.

West Jefferson Medical Center is thrilled to be part of the LCMC Health family and looks forward to becoming stronger as part of a system. To learn more about the hospital’s services, visit WJMC.org. •

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Convenience for the Concerned: Urgent Care in New Orleans

W

hile there’s no disputing that primary medical care is an important part healthcare, sometimes a nonemergency situation requires immediate attention that a family physician may not be immediately available to treat. When you need help – but don’t quite need Emergency Room triaging and diagnosing – urgent care facilities are a valuable resource for getting the care you need when you need it. With extended hours and a walk-ups-welcome policy, urgent care adds the kind of flexibility to healthcare that most families seek when a minor injury or illness strikes after business hours or on weekends. From sinus infections to stitches and sprains, urgent cares treat a variety of maladies in a quick, convenient way.

Sitting in an overcrowded waiting room isn’t ideal in any situation. New Orleans Urgent Care is the perfect alternative for patients with minor injuries or illnesses needing urgent treatment. There are no appointments, no lengthy wait times

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and no need for offsite diagnostics. New Orleans Urgent Care features seven exam rooms, a mini lab and an on-site digital X-ray machine, ensuring a quick and efficient medical exam for minor emergencies.

New Orleans Urgent Care is staffed with board-certified physicians with experience in Urgent Care, Family Medicine and Emergency Medicine. Ajsa Nikolic MD, Donald Fabacher MD, Katherine North APRN and Brent Becnel APRN will supply you with written discharge instructions and followup instructions after every visit. They are happy to work with your physician and provide any records of their treatment.

The staff is multilingual with persons speaking Spanish, German, French, Italian and Croatian.

New Orleans Urgent Care accepts most major insurances and offers a deposit system for those without insurance. They are open seven days a week with locations at 900 Magazine St. (504-552-2433) and 201 Decatur St. (504-609-3833). Visit NewOrleansUrgentCare.com to learn more. •

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TRY THIS

The Ear and Balance Institute advances care with genetic testing Ear and Balance Institute: 1401 Ochsner Blvd., Suite A, Covington, (985) 809-1111, EarAndBalanceInstitute.net At the Ear and Balance Institute in Covington, Dr. Gerard Gianoli and Dr. James Soileau have incorporated genetic testing in vertigo and dizziness evaluations. Genetic testing helps identify causes for patients’ problems and helps identify treatment options specific to the individual patient based on their genetics, which, in turn, improves treatment success. These techniques can reduce or eliminate trial and error therapy typically used by physicians who are unaware of the patient’s genetic makeup.

The Ear and Balance Institute is a worldwide referral center specializing in the diagnoses and treatment of vertigo, dizziness and balance disorders.

Festive Fun on the PRC Holiday Home Tour 12th & 13th December PrcNo.org Would you like to peek inside eight private historic homes in the Garden District all dressed up for the holidays? Join the Preservation Resource Center for the 40th annual Holiday Home Tour on Sat., Dec. 12 and Sun., Dec. 13. This event features a holiday boutique and café at tour HQ at Trinity Church (1329 Jackson Ave.) and entertainment by local musicians at each of the homes on the tour. PRC’s mission is to preserve, restore and revitalize New Orleans’ historic architecture and neighborhoods.

– Mirella Cameran

Rocking It

Climbing at the New Orleans Boulder Lounge

By Sarah Ravits

M

y sister Molly met several of her closest friends – including the guy she ended up marrying – while rock climbing. She initially sought out the sport as a new way to exercise, but quickly learned that climbing brings people together in addition to building physical and mental strength.

I tried climbing over the summer for the first time in Washington State and had a blast, but I didn’t think I’d be able to find something like that in New Orleans due to our lack of … well, mountains and rocks.

But then the New Orleans Boulder Lounge opened, and since then it’s been building a steady membership base of experienced and amateur climbers of all ages. (You can also just drop in to climb or take a class, but to save time, sign the online waiver first.) Owner Eli Klarman says he opened this gym with every intention of developing a community. “It’s as much a social outlet as it is a fitness or health outlet,” he says. “People like to come after work and hang out and meet up with their friends – that’s why we stay open so late.

Building a community is our biggest goal.”

When I went in there, Eli’s younger brother, Steven, explained the climbing routes and offered useful tips, including the proper way to fall (there’s a very thick layer of padding below the climbing walls to ensure a safe landing).

Another staff member guided me on a route, telling me which way to swing my hips and suggesting how to coordinate my legs and arms.

“Climbing is really cool because it’s very interdisciplinary,” Eli says. “You are setting your own challenges and you’re not competing with anyone but yourself. There’s an intellectual aspect to it – it’s like finishing a problem. You have to figure out how to execute it.”

Eli also notes how confidence boosting it can be. “We have kids who come in who are really shy and soft-spoken, and now they’re the ones giving the others advice on how to climb. It carries into their social interactions and even their schoolwork,” he says.

I can see why: From my experience there, I had to be fully present and concentrating on the task at (literal) hand. It was a challenge, but a welcome one – everyone in there was supportive, and my pleasantly sore arm muscles the next day were a testament to a good workout.

The New Orleans Boulder Lounge is located at 1746 Tchoupitoulas St.; for more information call 510-2990 or visit ClimbNobl.com. n

cheryl gerber photos

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Somehow the parking lot of Rock ’n’ Bowl on South Carrollton Avenue seemed to have the right karma for the moment. To be able to rock while bowling may be a prescription for life given whatever curative powers song has; mentally the pins create obstacles that are set, only to be knocked away, if only we stay clear of the gutters.

Toussaint’s arrival had thus far been the highlight of the event as his not so subtle Rolls Royce (with a license plate that said “piano”) came to a stop.

His portfolio of songs was so large that he certainly has something to fit the mood for each occasion, though it was not clear what this situation called for. Certainly “Working in the Coal Mines” would be too melodramatic; “Southern Nights” too sentimental, besides it was still daylight. It only took a few notes though for those in the crowd who knew Toussaint’s music to realize which way he was going. His song for this hardship occasion began with a happy bounce to which it was impossible not to sway while listening.

“I can’t eat And I can’t sleep Since you walked out on me, yeah.

Holy cow, what you doing, child?

Holy cow, what you doing, child?

What you doing, what you doing, child?

Holy smoke, well, it ain’t no joke hey, hey, hey.”

One More Song By errol laborde

A

llen Toussaint did not need this event. Legends, after all, can pick and choose where they go and what they do. He has played in fine halls throughout the world; sat in front of grand pianos; been accompanied by big name singers, some of whom, as the ultimate sign of his success, sang his songs.

Yet on this June afternoon in 2012, Toussaint was performing in a parking lot on a makeshift stage using an electric keyboard. He had accepted a request to play at a hastily put together fundraiser for employees of The Times-Picayune who had recently learned they were losing their jobs as part of the newspaper’s downsizing.

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“Holy Cow!” a Toussaint creation, had been recorded by many groups, most famously in 1966 by New Orleans R&B singer Lee Dorsey. Its message was perfect as the protagonist lamented being wronged by another party. In this case, the crowd knew, it was the Newhouses that had walked out on them. And then the message got even more personal: “First my boss The job I lost Since you walked out on me, yeah.

Holy smoke, what you doing to me?

Walking the ledge Nerves on edge Since you walked out on me, yeah .

Holy cow, what you doing to me, child?”

Within the audience, swaying with the music, there were many people whose nerves were on edge as they faced an uncertain future.

When Allen Toussaint died last month he was remembered for being one of the city’s contemporary geniuses. That he was.

He was also a genuinely good person. That day in the parking lot, that’s what mattered the most. n

ARTHUR NEAD ILLUSTRATION