Acadiana Profile December - January 2022

Oysters

PG. 26

Holly Beach Slammer at Uncle T’s Oyster Bar in downtown Scott

PLUS All the jewels you can use to bling in the New Year PG. 38

A deep dive into who is dishing up the best bivalves in the region

DECEMBER 2021/JANUARY 2022

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features D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 /J A N U A RY 2 0 2 2

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A deep dive into who is dishing up the best bivalves in the region

Layer on the shimmer and shine for a rockin’ good start to 2022

Oysters

Bling in the New Year

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dec/jan VOLUME 40 NUMBER 06

12 NOTE DE L’EDITEUR

Editor’s Note

16 NOUVELLES DE VILLES

News Briefs

20 L’Art

Lafayette artist Ramsey Ayers invites viewers to join her on a mythical island that exists only in her imagination

18 LETTRES D'AMOUR

A cookbook writer and culinary historian watches the evolution of Cajun and Creole cuisine in the region

56 RECETTES DE COCKTAILS

Cinclare Southern Bistro takes guests on a festive cocktail ride with a party-perfect potion for making spirits bright

58 DÎNER DEHORS

Forget your cares with flavorful fare at Fezzo’s in Crowley

64 EN FRANÇAIS, S’IL VOUS PLAÎT

Le légume éponyme de notre plat national

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Classic dishes to enjoy during the holiday’s quiet moments

The 2021 Acadiana St. Jude Dream Home in Broussard raised more than $1 million to support the hospital’s mission of ending childhood cancer

De la Cuisine

La Maison

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N OT E DE L’E DIT E U R

C

AWARDS

hargrilled. That’s how I like to eat my oysters. I’ll slurp a raw one or six with the customary accoutrements (preferably lemon juice, cocktail sauce, horseradish and hot sauce, as well as mignonette, because I like to mix it up) and I of course love them fried either on their own or as part of a messy poor boy. But even just writing about them chargrilled is making me crave a dozen smothered in butter, garlic and Parmesan cheese. Oh boy, I know what I’m having for dinner. For our annual “Best of ” feature in which we turn ou r a t t e n t i o n t o wh o i s making waves with Chargrilled their version of a oysters with certain food, oysters loads of were a no-brainer butter, herbs for me. My guess is and either breadcrumbs, the vast majority of à la oysters those of you reading Rockefeller, or this agree it was a with Parmesan good choice. cheese tops my list of ways to This beloved, briny have oysters. bivalve ranks right up there with crawfish, shrimp and crabs when it comes to Louisiana seafood.

Louisianians wait in line for fresh, plump Gulf oysters. We wring our hands when the beds are under weather-related and manmade threats or when there’s a shortage. We gather together over big batches (raw, grilled, fried or cooked in soups, stews, gumbos, patties and oyster dressing) for celebrations. We just can’t get enough. Except those who, like my husband, are allergic — bless his and y’all’s hearts. Truly. It’s so sad to eat oysters in front of someone who wants to, but can’t because they’ll get sick. Not sad enough to pass on eating the oysters, but sorrowful nonetheless.

It would make my dearly departed mama especially proud to know that I eat raw oysters now. There was a time when I wanted nothing to do with those slippery

suckers — thank you very much. As a child I’d watch her and my grandpa relish them raw devouring one after the other as if it were their job. Truth be told, I only started enjoying raw oysters about 10 years ago. My appreciation for them grew slowly over time. I’d try one every few years or so and recommit to hating them for another few years. Then one year while on a girls trip I gave it the old college try and voilà — oyster lover. As you maybe guessed, I’m not a quitter when it comes to food.

I’m proof positive that the palate changes over time. Oysters, olives and — I’m ashamed to admit — hot sauce, are all things I used to dislike, but grew to love and consume with abandon. If there’s a food you hate, take my advice, try it every once in a while and see if anything has changed for you.

You just might discover a favorite food.

On that note, whether oysters are your favorite food or not, join us on a culinar y adventure throughout Acadiana as we sample the best oyster dishes in the region. Of course we will have left out a place or three that does a bang up job, because we don’t have the space to include every oyster purveyor in Cajun Country or, perhaps there’s a place that just isn’t on our radar. So please do email me if we left off your favorite joint, so we can consider them the next time we cover oysters. Or, on a personal note, send me your favorites so I can visit the place and sample their goods. If I don’t hear from you, have a wonderful holiday season. Cheers!

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ÉQ U I P E DE V E NT E

Rebecca Taylor Sales Manager (337) 298-4424 (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 Rebecca@AcadianaProfile.com

Coming Soon!

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2022

Top Doctors Listing of the Top Doctors in the region

PLUS

Healthy Recipes Get your grill on.

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N O U V E L L E S DE V IL L E S

by Lisa LeBlanc-Berry

Whodunit?

LAFAYETTE Experience life as a crime scene investigator during CSI Lafayette, a thrilling outdoor murder mystery event on Jan. 15 using forensic techniques, detective work and codebreaking to crack the case. Fancy dress strongly encouraged; dogs welcome. Enjoyed by over 1 million people worldwide via CluedUpp Games (cluedupp.com/products/ csi-lafayette-la).

BROUSSARD

Drive-thru Daiquiris, Live Crawfish and Snowballs A popular stop for to-go boiled and live seafood, The Crawfish Boss, is expanding from its modest 420-square-foot building into a renovated new 4,400-square-foot facility that will accommodate an expanded menu with gourmet snowballs and ice cream (tip: super loaded pineapple). A new frozen daiquiri drive-thru makes its debut upon the restaurant’s reopening in early 2022 (facebook.com/ TheCrawfishBoss).

Fancy but Not Fussy

Got Gumbo?

Opelousas Acadiana’s cast iron pots are seeing a lot of winter gumbo action during duck hunting season. For variety’s sake, head over to Opelousas for the 16th annual Gumbo Cook-off Jan. 29, when you can sample an assortment of exceptional gumbos by top Acadiana chefs who are competing for the title of “best gumbo.” Benefitting children and families who are burdened with medical and related expenses (facebook.com/TheGumboFoundation).

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FOR MORE NEWS BRIEFS VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

LAFAYETTE Stuart and Colleen Ottinger, owners of Lafayette’s hip new Mercy Kitchen, announced the opening of Palmyre, an elegant Euro-chic cocktail lounge, in January. Featuring vintage one-of-a-kind pieces, a unique lofted event space and wine tasting table, sleek bar and an outdoor champagne garden in River Ranch. “We want our guests to feel transported beyond Lafayette,” says Stuart. “It’s a place where you can order a well-made drink, just like you would in a Manhattan bar, but without the fuss.” (thepalmyre.com).

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LE T T R E S D'A MO U R

MARCELLE BIENVENUE is a cookbook writer, culinary historian and food columnist who has had a long love affair with the history of our local cuisines.

She is retired and lives on Bayou Teche in St. Martinville.

Then and Now A cookbook writer and culinary historian watches the evolution of Cajun and Creole cuisine in the region

by Marcelle Bienvenu illustration by Sara Willia

My father, Marcel “Blackie,” doted on me — his namesake — and I was often at his elbow — along with favorite bottle of beer — watching him cook over a wood fire at our camp on Catahoula Lake just outside the Atchafalaya Basin. He was a Boy Scout leader and avid sportsman who enjoyed cooking most of our meals over weekends and holidays spent at the camp.

I was fascinated by the way he controlled the fire under his cast-iron pots when preparing chicken aux gros onions, courtbouillon or fried catfish. No one ever described these dishes as Cajun.

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When my parents took us for weekend trips to New Orleans, we dined on oysters Rockefeller at Antoine's, turtle soup at Broussard’s and shrimp remoulade at Arnaud’s. I never heard these dishes described as Creole.

It wasn’t until 1971 when I was hired to be the local consultant for the book “American Cooking: Creole and Acadian,” one of the books featured in the Time-Life series “Foods of the World,” that I realized there were two distinct styles of cooking in Louisiana — Cajun and Creole.

In 1975 while working at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, the Brennans named Opelousas-native Chef Paul Prudhomme executive chef at the renowned Creole restaurant. Whoa! Cajun (country food) meets Creole (sophisticated cuisine). I’d never seen chicken and andouille gumbo on a restaurant menu in the Crescent City. (Then, okra seafood gumbo was a headliner at most of the local establishments.) I mentioned to Ella Brennan that I didn’t think her welldressed patrons would take kindly to battling the meat off the chicken pieces.

As usual, Ella had an easy and elegant solution.

“Not to worry Marcelle, we’ll make a stock with the bones and have the deboned meat in the gumbo.”

I watched in awe as Chef Paul blackened thousands of redfish and sculpted pirogues out of fried eggplant, loaded with fried shrimp and oysters and sometimes served with a tasso-flavored sauce. (I knew andouille and tasso weren’t familiar to city folks, but they became household names when Paul began preaching the gospel of Cajun cuisine.)

Chef Paul and the Brennans pulled off a brilliant marriage and both gained national recognition.

Over the last 30 plus years, I’ve witnessed the evolution of our local cuisines.

Is it getting harder to define each cuisine?

Sometimes. But I’m excited Cajun and Creole cuisine are still evolving.

After all, the first rule about cooking either is: there are no rules. ■

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L’A RT

Paradise Found Lafayette artist Ramsey Ayers invites viewers to join her on a mythical island that exists only in her imagination

(top) “Village Huts” (below) Ramsey Ayers (right) “Always Friends” (bottom) “Breaux Family”

by John R. Kemp

What happens when a Louisiana artist looks to the exotic tropical paintings of a 19thcentury French artist living and working in the French Polynesian islands of the South Pacific? Delightful results, that’s what.

While scores of artists travel the roads and bayous of South Louisiana in search of that right scene or mood to capture on canvas or film, Lafayette artist Ramsey Ayers retreats not into the Acadiana landscape but into a mystical island called Juniper that exists only in her imagination. It is an Eden that she has continued to explore for almost two decades, all the while conjuring images of idyllic lives in an idyllic land. It is a “perfect world,” she says, where life is lived “in the simplest of ways.”

“I love creating Juniper Island,” says the 44-year-old Ayers, who was born and raised in Lafayette. “It’s my version of utopia — what I imagine a perfect world to be like. Life is simple and harmonic, joyful and worry free, colorful and happy. Family and friendships are absolutely everything. Time stands still.

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To see the world ablaze with such pattern and color would be a magnificent thing. It was never my intention to only paint one theme my whole life, but I never got tired of it.”

Ayers’s intense colors and tropical imagery reflect her fascination with the work and palettes of the 19th-century French artists Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse.

“Gauguin’s work during his time in French Polynesia in the South Seas affects me like no other,” she says. “His colors, his subjects, the mood his art portrays, I want to live in that world he creates. I greatly appreciate the works of Henri Matisse as well for his use of pattern and bold colors. His work dances on the canvas.”

Unlike Gauguin and Matisse who used paint to create their exotic compositions, Ayers describes her work as mixed media collages. It is a fascinating pro-

cess. To create depth, texture and movement she applies magazine cutouts, handmade paper, fabric, beads, sticks, paint and anything else at hand.

“There really isn’t much that I haven’t tried at least once,” says Ayers, who has created her imaginary scenes of this fictitious land since graduating in art from LSU in 2000. “I’ve even added old baby dresses, special letters, important maps, old postage stamps and family signatures on commissioned pieces. There are so many things going on in the paintings that you don’t see them all at once.”

Working in this “unconventional” way, she says, has opened a new world of art for her. It is a style and mythical world she continues to explore.

“In these paintings,” she says, “time stands still, colors of every imaginable shade dance across the canvas

VIEW MORE PAINTINGS

BY RAMSEY AYERS AT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

in temper-altering hues, and all that seems to matter is the love and peace one finds from family and friends. If even for a second you are drawn into their world, I hope it brings you the tranquility and serenity they have found.”

Ayers’ imaginary life on Juniper Island has brought her growing recognition. The Festival International de Louisiane selected one of her compositions for its official poster. In addition, her work has appeared in art gallery shows in New Orleans, Lafayette, Breaux Bridge, Lake Charles and Destin, Florida. She also receives numerous requests from families to create collaged compositions, placing them and their homes in her fantasy world.

“I have spent the past 21 years creating paintings that depict the life of a fictitious world,” she says. “It’s a land I find perfect in every way, my own idea of Utopia, you might say — the world of Juniper Island.”

Juniper Island is Ayers’s Polynesia, her Tahiti. ■

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LA MAISON

Dreams Come True The 2021 Acadiana St. Jude Dream Home in Broussard raised more than $1 million to support the hospital’s mission of ending childhood cancer

by Marie Elizabeth Oliver photos by Haylei Smith

When Bryan McLain, of McLain Companies, first got involved in the Acadiana St. Jude Dream Home project in 2009, things were not looking good for anyone working in the housing market.

“It was the worst of times for a developer and builder — it was during the crash,” explains

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McLain. “I was sitting on all these expensive lots and couldn’t sell any houses. Then St. Jude came calling.”

McLain says he dug deep and donated an available lot to the cause. The rest is history.

He took the reins of the Acadiana Dream Home project in 2010, and his business steadily expanded. Thirteen Dream Homes later, he expects to top more than $15 million raised for St. Jude.

“I believe in karma,” says McLain.

In 2020, McLain tapped his stepson, Jim McLain, to lead the project and he brought on architect Tim Green of Azalea Design Studio.

The team, along with five interior decorators, created a two-story, modern farmhouse in Broussard’s Magnolia Trace subdivision.

Stacey Arceneaux of S. Clare Design says she loves the home aesthetic of contemporary elements combined with the warmth of natural, organic materials. Arceneaux, who designed the home’s primary bedroom and bath, says she jumped at the Designers Dona Sonnier and Leslie Wooters outfitted the dining opportunity to create a space and main living space with luxe neutrals that complement the that would draw people in. home’s contemporary aesthetic. The show-stopping staircase was designed by Azalea Design Studio and built by Advanced “You don’t have to play it Millworks with construction by McClain Companies. To accent the safe,” says Arceneaux, of her beams and trusses by Revival Timberworks, the walls are bathed luxurious suite design. in “Snowbound” by Sherwin Williams. Bryan McClain credits The bath’s white concrete, Jim McClain, architect Tim Green and all the designers for the home’s “fresh look.” “We call them our dream team,” says McClain. indoor-outdoor shower was

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Builder: McLain Homes Architect: Tim Green, Azalea Design Studio Interiors: Dona Sonnier & Leslie Wooters, Dona Designs Paige Gary, Paige Gary Designs Stacey Arceneaux, S. Clare Design Paige LaVergne, LaV Designs

TO GET MORE OF THIS HOME VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

Simon’s Custom Cabinets built and installed the kitchen’s natural wood cabinets. Open shelving in the scullery, built by Cody LeBlanc Construction and staged by Paige LaVergne, gives the space ample opportunity for organization. The dramatic countertops throughout the kitchen and scullery were installed by Bayou Stone Works.

“We want to feature three or four things in the house where people open their mouths and their jaw drops, and they say, ‘maybe I want to buy two tickets,’” says McClain.

inspired by a recent trip she and her husband took to Costa Rica. She says she and the other decorators all incorporated bold wallpaper in their designs, one of many details that made the style of the home feel of-the-moment.

McLain points to other fresh features, such as the home’s dramatic floating staircase and modern kitchen, as examples of how the Dream Home team keeps people coming back year after year.

“They did a tremendous job with giving Acadiana a look they hadn’t seen before,” says McLain. “When you have a Dream Home for 20 plus years, it gets harder and harder to raise money, but Acadiana has always stepped up to the plate.”

McLain says they are hard at work on the 2022 Dream Home, which will be located in Sabal Palms in Youngsville. ■

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by Eric Cormier photos by Sam Hanna

A deep dive into who is dishing up the best bivalves in the region

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W

CHARBROILED

“ See if it works.”

Within Louisiana’s coastal waters resides a creature that is relatively unattractive on the outside but within it are contents that elicit a complex set of reactions for eaters.

Some view Crassostrea virginica — the creature's scientific name — with the kind of disdain reserved for activities like writing a big tax check or planning a root canal.

On the opposite end of the gastronomical spectrum is a group that cherishes this seafood item, commonly known as the Eastern oyster in our parts, that rivals the passion pickup truck owners have for specific brands and models and some grandparents have for cooking in cast iron kitchenware.

Even though some may not know this, oyster eaters are part of a culinary continuum that begins in ancient times and reaches to our present.

Thousands of years ago, the Greeks and Romans indulged in oysters and advanced early cultivation methods. During Europe's Renaissance period, oysters were so plentiful and value-priced that they were eaten by both the kings and their courts and the common people.

Oysters were a part of the pre-Colonial Native American diet also. In his seminal foodways book "Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History," author John Egerton noted that Native Americans "had long since mastered the art of shucking oysters, both raw ones straight from the water and those roasted in fire."

Louisiana has been one of the nation's top oyster producers for years resulting in hundreds of millions of dollars being generated through processing, sales, and payrolls.

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Yet, it is the Bayou state’s home and professional cooks who over centuries have evolved the oyster’s kitchen preparation from raw to baked, steamed, grilled, cooked in soups, stews and gumbo, fried, prepared in Rockefeller or Bienville, utilized in stuffings or wrapped in bacon and called angels on horseback.

While oyster loathers are many, the lovers do not care because that means more of the seafood is available for them to indulge in.

As far as oyster lovers are concerned, they are content to be part of the human family that cherishes a sultry epicurean-based experience that Louisiana writers Jerald and Glenda Horst illustrate in their book "Louisiana Seafood Bible: Oysters, "Oh, but when a salty, perfectly fat winter oyster, with no embellishments to hide its taste is placed on the tongue! A flood of all the briny flavors of the sea cascades through your mouth. As your tongue rolls the oyster over, the body, so turgidly swollen with winter fat, breaks into creamy pieces and coats the inside of your mouth like fresh butter.”

Throughout Acadiana, there are eateries where oyster eaters pay homage to the creature and the kitchen creativity displayed in its presentation both in the raw and cooked.

What follows are a few restaurant gems where oysters have a prominent place on the menu.

An enterprising and inventive Acadiana couple is responsible for the unique charbroiled oysters provided at Uncle T’s Oyster Bar in downtown Scott.

Be advised, it is best to order the Holly Beach Slammer in order to taste the full gamut of flavors fused with oysters cooked on an open fire grill.

The Slammer consists of the Nola, Firecracker, Classic Candy and Le Bon Cochon charbroiled oyster varieties.

“We built this place to boil crawfish but we needed something between seasons,” Uncle T’s owner Anthony Hebert explains. “Then we got an idea. We had eaten charbroiled oysters in New Orleans. We figured let’s throw those types of oysters in the mix and see if it works.”

Considering the constant orders that the oyster grill masters kick out of their cooking station on a daily basis, the Heberts made the right decision.

Hebert, a former oilman, and his wife Lexi, opened the restaurant in her grandfather’s all brick building that was constructed in the late 1950s.

Eventually, an oyster grilling station was built in the building near the bar. The areas are separated by a wall and glass, but the aroma of grilled oysters and the toppings placed on them will delight the olfactory senses.

The Nola is the traditional oyster charbroiled with butter and shredded Parmesan cheese. Hebert wanted to keep with the New Orleans influence with the dish.

Other charbroiled oyster selections pay homage to the family’s Cajun heritage utilizing spicy and bold flavors.

The Firecracker consists of jalapenos, cheese, bacon and pepper jack cheese. On the Classic Candy, a Zydeco sauce, candied jalapenos and pepper jack cheese are on the oyster. Lastly, the Le Bon Cochon charbroiled oyster is topped with smoked boudin, pepper jack cheese and a Creole mustard glaze.

“It is most rewarding to see people visit for the first time and then come back with friends and family,” Hebert said.

Uncle T’s charbroiled oysters are one of the main reasons why.

Sample some other goodies!

The Slammer consists of the Nola, Firecracker, Classic Candy and Le Bon Cochon charbroiled oyster varieties.

Cocktail Railway Mint Julep can be enjoyed even when the Derby is months away. Bulleit Bourbon, fresh mint and sugar refresh the palate.

Appetizer Boudin Capital Eggrolls are smoked boudin combined with pepper jack cheese and Uncle T’s secret Zydeco sauce enhances the Cajun prairie’s staple finger food.

Dinner Cue Time Seafood Platter is a fried food lover’s paradise of crawfish tails, fried alligator, fried fish, fried oyster, fried shrimp and soft shell crab.

INNOVATION 30

REQUEST LEADS TO SUCCESS Chef Amanda Cusey of Villa Harlequin can be a contradiction when discussing her personal opinion of an oyster. ¶ She is a chef who can do without a raw oyster but will tolerate a fried one.

Yet, somewhere in her culinary odyssey from America, to the British Isles, eventually ending up in Lake Charles, Cusey picked up on enough oyster recipes to concoct a dish that is a Lake Area favorite.

The menu at Villa Harlequin in historic Downtown Lake Charles has an appetizer that if multiple orders are made the oyster lover will end up with a delightful meal.

Cusey, who was featured as a “Top Chef” in Acadiana Profile in 2017, created a dish she named “Prosecco risotto with oysters.” A handful of lightly fried oysters are placed on top of a Prosecco, fennel, and spinach risotto.

“Mike [Sperandeo, the restaurant’s co-owner], wanted an oyster dish prior to us opening in 2017,” Cusey explained.

“I had cooked a similar dish at a kitchen in Ireland I worked in and used shallots with the oysters and Prosecco risotto.”

ACADIANA PROFILE DECEMBER 2021/JANUARY 2022

Sperandeo, who was raised in a restaurant family, knew there was a contingent of Lake Area eaters who demand oysters.

Cusey went into kitchen scientist mode and decided to blend the flavors of Prosecco, fennel and spinach and add them to the risotto.

Fresh and grain dusted oysters are gently fried and added to the dinner item.

What is placed in front of a diner in a shallow bowl can best be described as oyster nirvana.

Cusey is happy the end result is a customer favorite.

“Oyster lovers, they are serious. People either love them or hate them. There is no in-between,” she said.

The fact she heeded her boss’ request is also important.

“I’d never have heard the end of it if I hadn’t,” Cusey said while giggling.

Prosecco risotto with oysters: A handful of lightly fried oysters are placed on top of a Prosecco, fennel and spinach risotto

“

Oyster lovers, they are serious. People either love them or hate them.

There is no in-between.

Sample some other goodies!

COCKTAIL Smoke and Barrel is a mixology concoction that can best be described as a smoked rosemary peach old fashioned with Jefferson’s Bourbon as the foundation … wow!

APPETIZER Antipasto is a grand way to start dinner here. The chef selects the meats and cheeses which are accompanied by olives, cranberry and fig chutney.

DINNER Lasagna is a traditional dish, but the fresh Italian sausage, beef, tomato sauce, béchamel and mozzarella here proves oldies can be goodies.

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Classic

POOR BOY

The oysters are the featured ingredient, even though the sandwich’s flavor is enhanced with the French bread, tomato, butter leaf lettuce and Prejean’s sauce (spicy mayonnaise).

Restaurant general manager Matthew Mead explained that the top-quality oysters served in the restaurant are harvested in Louisiana.

Mead has high regard for the seafood and Louisiana-based industry.

“Oysters mean prosperity to me. Those guys who harvest the seafood rock, they represent resilience, especially with the problems they have dealt with over the years,” he said.

The French bread is not just any run-of-the-mill ingredient either. Mead said Prejean’s owners purchase bread that is baked at LeJeune’s Bakery

Prejean’s, located off Interstate 49 in north Lafayette, prepares the sandwich which melds memorable and satisfying flavors.

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Sample some other goodies!

Cocktail Frose can cause one to linger at the restaurant. Vodka, wine and lemonade are blended together in this drink … it is addictive.

Appetizer Fried green tomatoes topped with crawfish étouffée and smoked tomato butter are the reason some appetizers can become entrées.

Dinner Crawfish enchiladas, simply put, are crawfish tails, three cheese blend, Creole cream sauce, green onions with a side of corn maque choux — oh LAWD.

Fried oyster poor boy

in Jeanerette which has been open since 1884.

“We use this bread for the poor boy because it is not heavy and has a great flavor that complements the oysters,” he said.

Providing freshness is the goal of the Prejean’s team.

Owners Tim and Greg Metcalf and Ken Boudreaux bought the business in November 2020. Since then, they have remodeled the restaurant — which has been open 40 years — and slightly adjusted the menu.

Oyster lovers are always on the management team’s minds.

“Our oyster suppliers are south of Houma where salinity levels are just right and make the oysters delicious. That freshness is important to the flavor,” Mead said. “Getting the freshest product is what we aim [for] because we want a person to think they were at the dock themselves buying oysters.

You can taste it when you think about it.”

The Oyster Dinner consists of an oyster shooter, oyster gumbo, oyster pie, oyster jambalaya, oyster en brochette, fried oysters, oyster Bienville and oyster Rockefeller

OYSTER IN DISH

90-Year Old Family Recipes All on One Plate

Oyster-induced bliss is an eventuality after dining on a plate that features the seafood prepared eight different ways at Poor Boy’s Riverside Inn in Broussard.

Sample some other goodies!

COCKTAIL Tequila Martini Is a touch of Dubai meeting with St. Maarten.

The drink consists of tequila and hints of orange liqueur with a splash of house-made lemon lime mix.

APPETIZER Crabbies are described as six crunchy French bread squares topped with creamy, cheesy crab meat topping that is baked until bubbly ... sinful.

DINNER Stuffed redfish should be mandatory for seafood lovers. The chef’s creation is enhanced with crawfish, crab meat and mushrooms in sweet cream butter.

The “Oyster Dinner” — as it is written on the menu — consists of an oyster shooter, oyster gumbo, oyster pie, oyster jambalaya, oyster en brochette, fried oysters, oyster Bienville and oyster Rockefeller.

What is even more compelling about the dinner is that its recipes are almost 90 years old.

Poor Boy’s is Lafayette’s oldest restaurant and third-generation owners Richard and Lori Hurst work diligently to reproduce a top-notch service and dining experience that

lives up to their family’s wonderful culinary reputation.

Richard Hurst’s grandfather Hulo “Poor Boy” Landry started in the food service business in 1932 with a snowball stand and restaurant in Lafayette the same year.

In 1977, the Broussard location opened under Hurst’s father and mother’s (Larry and Kathlyn Hurst) direction.

The Hursts have soaked in decades of oyster knowledge that has been passed down within the family.

“The salinity levels of the water

where the oysters are harvested from is important,” Lori Hurst said.

Both are sticklers for certain oyster flavor patterns. In their opinion, an oyster dinner is only good if the base ingredient is excellent.

Richard remembers his mother tasting the restaurant’s oyster dishes and commenting on the consistency.

“It is about taste. She knew what the right taste was,” he said. "She loved oysters and ate them in New Orleans, a city she loved and visited often."

Richard, the restaurant's head chef, has made a few minor adjustments

to the oyster plate. One of which adds a certain sweetness to the palate.

He uses a sweet dough pie recipe for the crust which is filled with a brown oyster sauce that has a subtle and pleasant tinge of spiciness.

The Hursts said tried and true oyster lovers get excited about the dish. It gives the family pleasure knowing that long-time and new customers visit the restaurant knowing oysters are given due attention in the kitchen.

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RAW

Sample some other goodies!

Cocktail Frozen sangria before, during and after dinner will cool the mouth and enhance the relaxed feeling at this eatery.

“

Appetizer Eggplant Abbeville will shock the taste buds because the combination of eggplant and lump crab meat is boosted by the rich white wine, caper and tomato cream sauce.

We are humbled and proud to keep this heritage going.

Ice Cold Salty Raw Oysters on the Half Shell are served with lemon wedges

Dinner Crab Combo showcases the blue crab and includes crab claws, fried stuffed crab, lump crab meat au gratin and lump crab meat in garlic butter sauce.

The Shell Sampler includes six chargrilled oysters Rockefeller on the half shell and six chargrilled oysters de Ville on the half shell

HISTORY AND TRADITION ON THE HALF SHELL Any serious discussion about Acadiana’s oyster eating history has to start at Dupuy’s Seafood and Steak in Abbeville.

Located inside a one-story building that sits at a location with the Vermilion River flowing behind it and the western entrance into the city’s downtown, the mollusk is revered.

Oyster half-shells have been placed along one of the restaurant’s wall as a decoration. Cajun and country Creole-inspired seafood dishes leave out of the kitchen all day, but everybody in the building — even more so with owners

Chef Jody and Tonya Hebert — understands working in the restaurant is akin to being inside a culinary shrine of sorts.

In 1869, Joseph Dupuy started operating Dupuy’s.

Since 2000, the Hebert’s have owned and operated Dupuy’s Seafood and Steak.

According to the restaurant’s history which is documented at dupuys.com, Dupuy initially “harvested his own oysters and sold them for 5 cents a dozen. Joseph started a tradition, which would continue over 146 years of success in its original location.”

Based on the business’ sign and menu, it’s easy to conclude what the restaurant’s calling card is. In case there are any doubts, the website states Dupuy’s is “World-famous for oysters on the half shell.”

“We buy oysters when they are in peak season,” Jody Hebert said. “We are proud of what Mother Nature gives us.”

He uses a specific term to describe the type of fresh oysters the restaurant wants to provide to customers during the fall and winter months (best quality oysters), “salty, those are the best.”

The “Ice Cold Salty Raw Oysters on the ½-Shell” as they are described on the menu, are served with lemon wedges. Additional condiments like hot sauce, spicy garlic sauce, horseradish, and seafood cocktail sauce are also available.

The Hebert’s have realized how important Dupuy’s is to Acadiana’s culinary history. “We are humbled and proud to keep this heritage going ... we’re honored,” Hebert said. ◊

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Layer on the shimmer and shine for a rockin’ good start to 2022

New Year IN THE

BY MARIE ELIZABETH OLIVER PHOTOS

BY ROMERO & ROMERO

Vintage Czech jet glass button with silver luster coating on casting of an old buckle, set with genuine marcasites, Grandmother’s Buttons

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5. 14K morganite pie cut ring, Armentor Jewelers 6. 14K rose gold stackable band set with alternating round and baguette diamonds, Lafayette Jewelers 7. 14K white gold and round diamond band, Lafayette Jewelers 8. 18K two tone, white and yellow gold, diamond bangle, Lafayette Jewelers

TIP! Don’t be afraid to mix and match your stack. Pair bold statement pieces with sparkles to make them pop.

9. 14K yellow gold diamond bangle, Lafayette Jewelers 2

3

10. 14K yellow gold diamond bangle, Lafayette Jewelers

4

5 6

Punk Rock Vamp up your look for a grunge-meetsglam aesthetic.

1. Skinny gold bangles, M Collectives 2. One-of-a-kind 14K yellow gold band with bezel set diamonds, Lafayette Jewelers 3. 8K white gold and diamond dome ring, Lafayette Jewelers

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8 9 10

4. Antique button adjustable ring, Grandmother’s Buttons

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Ice Queen Show yourself with playful sparkles that stand out in a crowd.

Gold Mary sparkle necklace, M Collectives

Sterling silver jacks necklace, Laura Teague

Sterling silver jacks necklace, Laura Teague

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6 TIP! Of-the-moment press-ons make it easy to a pull off a bold manicure—no salon appointment necessary.

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4 2

5

3 7

1. 18K square sapphire and diamond band, Armentor Jewelers 2. 14k white gold stackable band set with round diamonds, Lafayette Jewelers 3. 14K sapphire and diamond band, Armentor Jewelers 4. 14K white gold band set with round and baguette diamonds, Lafayette Jewelers 5. 14K sapphire stackable band, Armentor Jewelers 6. Floral 18K white gold band, Lafayette Jewelers 8

7. One-of-a-kind 14K yellow gold diamond ring, Lafayette Jewelers

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8. Sterling silver jacks bracelet, Laura Teague

11 12

9. Silver pyramid bangle, Armentor Jewelers 10. Gold pyramid bangle, Armentor Jewelers 11. Marnie bracelets, M Collectives 12. Two-tone watch with mother-of pearl-face set with eight genuine diamonds, Lafayette Jewelers

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Blue Mignon necklace featuring a Japanese vintage glass opal and a one-of-a-kind antique button, Grandmother’s Buttons

Evil Eye pendant necklace with gold-filled paperclip chain, M Collectives

Lucky Charms 42

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You be you with customized accessories that speak louder than words.

DECEMBER 2021/JANUARY 2022

1 2

Stores 3

Lafayette Jewelers Lafayette-Jewelers.com Armentor Jewelers ArmentorJewelers.com M Collectives MCollectives.com Laura Teague LauraTeague.com Grandmother’s Buttons GrandmothersButtons.com Adorn JewelrybyAdorn.com

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1. Micah link bracelet, M Collectives 2. 4K polish links, Armentor Jewelers 3. Hand crafted wire beaded bracelet, Adorn 4. Hand crafted wire wrapped pearl bracelets, Adorn 5. 14K zig zag band, Armentor Jewelers

8. 14K zig zag band, Armentor Jewelers

6. Max hoops earrings, worn as rings, M Collectives

9. 14K Diamond band, Armentor Jewelers

7. 10K Paperclip ring, Armentor Jewelers

10. Acrylic tube bracelets, M Collectives

TIP! More than meets the eye: The eye symbol has adorned jewelry for thousands of years as a talisman against negative energy. Paperclips and paperclip chains are a sign of unity and non-violent resistance, dating back to WWII. Grandmother’s Button’s infuses its jewelry with pieces of history — antique buttons manufactured between 1880 and 1960.

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Stuff your stockings with these culinary creations from Renaissance Publishing The Essential New Orleans Cookbook Creole or Cajun? Pompano or trout? Red sauce or brown gravy? Pasta or rice? This book helps by offering recipes from the kitchen of Dale Curry, the city’s senior culinary writer, who has served as food editor for The Times-Picayune and then New Orleans Magazine. Adding spice to the mix is the splendid work of veteran photographer Eugenia Uhl, who captures the colors and textures of grand meals. Enjoy the experience with a book that is good for cookin’ and great for lookin’.

The Essential Louisiana Seafood Cookbook A collection of 50 traditional and contemporary recipes where top-notch ingredients are paired with fresh seafood. The easy-to-follow recipes emphasize Louisiana seafood and quality, local ingredients. Inspired, innovative and delicious, the seafood dishes in this collection are sure to become favorites in your kitchen.

Culinary Louisiana Calendar Savory stews, roasts and grilled dishes, fresh takes on garden harvests, and to-die-for desserts are just a taste of the delectable dishes you’ll find in the latest installment of Culinary Louisiana.

From appetizers to the main course and dessert, this full-color, 15-month calendar — a Louisiana Life magazine publication — ensures that every month will kick off with a fresh, fabulous recipe.

Get yours today at renaissance-publishing.myshopify.com

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SPONSORED

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

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SPONSORED

HAYS TOWN BOOK Written by Carol McMichael Reese

The Hilliard Art Museum 710 St. Mary Blvd • Lafayette 337-482-2278 • hilliardmuseum.org

ROPE HUGGIES Lafayette Jewelers 3215 Louisiana Ave #106 Lafayette 337-534-4551 lafayette-jewelers.com

BOURBON BALLS Cane River Pecan Company 254 W. Main Street New Iberia 337-373-8181 caneriverpecan.com

VILLAGER’S CAFÉ GIFT CARD Villager’s Café 8400 Maurice Ave Maurice 337-898-1554 villagerscafe.net

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SPONSORED

POORBOY’S RIVERSIDE INN GIFT CARD PoorBoy’s Riverside Inn 240 Tubing Road • Broussard 337-837-4011 poorboysriversideinn.com

ACADIA GUMBO SPOONS Louisiana Hot Stuff 4409 Ambassador Caffery Pkwy.

Suite 200 Lafayette 337-981-3132 louisianahotstuff.com

RAVAZZOLO SUITS AND JACKETS F. Camalo 416 Heymann Blvd Lafayette 337-233-4984 fcamalo.com

WINTER’S EVE, BIG WOODS Atrium Gallery 100 E. Vermilion Street Suite 150 Lafayette 337-356-7049 atriumgalleryfineart.com

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SPONSORED

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SPONSORED

A Southern woman has a legendary mystique.

Storytellers have long tapped into the worlds fascination with a woman who is feminine and speaks her mind; gracious, but in no way a pushover; and possess the strength and force of a hurricane. The Southern Woman has earned fitting nickname: Steel Magnolia.

We would like to thank the following professionals and business who participated in the photoshoot: Les Amis Flowers Victori Guidry, Caitlin Barnett, Wendy Campbell, Sarah Morvant for make-up applications and hair sytling Ballin’s for providing some of the clothing River Oaks Catering for the use of their venue Danley Romero with Romero & Romero for the professional photography

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SPONSORED

2021 Acadiana Steel Magnolias Left to Right, Deborah Pierce, Lacey Maynor, Lindsay Meador, Dr. Shaunda Grisby, Angela Lalande, and Suzette Tardo Fowler 50

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SPONSORED

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SPONSORED

Dr. Shaunda K. Grisby Breast Surgical Oncologist Medical Director for Lafayette General Medical Doctors Fellowship-trained in the treatment of breast cancer, benign breast related diseases, and management of individuals at high risk for developing breast cancer, Dr. Grisby is a passionate provider of quality care to patients being evaluated and treated for breast diseases.

Involved with American Cancer Society of Lafayette, Miles Perret Center Cancer Services, and other outreach events, Dr. Grisby organized the first Pink-A-Boo Breast Cancer Awareness event at Ochsner Lafayette General. She is known and respected for the humility, compassion, and energy she demonstrates in her role as Associate Regional Medical Director.

“I continuously strive to improve the patient experience and access to care,” says Dr. Grisby. “Success is no accident—it’s hard work, perseverance, learning, studying, sacrifice, and most of all loving what you do.”

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SPONSORED

Suzette Tardo Fowler Owner, Camp Bow Wow, Lafayette Owner, Camp Bow Wow, Charleston, South Carolina Beyond its well-known services—boarding, day camp, training, grooming, in-home pet sitting, and shuttle services—Camp Bow Wow helps animals in need across Acadiana and Charleston, SC, by fostering for and donating to local animal rescues and by sponsoring and participating in adoption events.

“The opportunity to turn a passionate love for animals into a business venture not only makes for a rewarding career but allows me to help the less fortunate animals in our community,” says Suzette. “I am extremely honored to be a part of multiple endeavors to improve the lives of animals in need.”

The Bow Wow Buddies Foundation by Camp Bow Wow offers medical grants and annual funding for a yearly scholarship to CSU Animal Cancer Center.

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ACADIANA PROFILE DECEMBER 2021/JANUARY CLOTHING PROVIDED

BY BALLIN’S LTD 2022

SPONSORED SPONSORED

Jesse Lacey Luquette, Jr., Maynor DEALER/OWNER SERVICEDevelopment CHEVROLET Community CADILLAC Manager, Advancial In has the been automotive business Lacey knee deep since the early 1970s, second in community causes since generation Jesse she was a teen. Dealer Over her Luquette, has developed career, she hasJr. worked for a healthy respect for the several non-profits and top-caliber with hardworking, business associations employees at Service across the area. Recognized Chevrolet Cadillac who not as the 2018 One Acadiana only giveof their for the Ambassador theall Year who also work and acompany 2019 “20but Under hard for the community.

40” Honoree, she is a graduate of Leadership “WhatXXXI I witnessed Lafayette and of our staff immediately has served on boards after the hurricane was amazing—they including of Vermilion donated hard-earned money, Chamber of Commerce, gathered supplies, and Acadiana Society of Human cooked for hundreds Resource Management, of hurricane victims One Acadiana, and thewho had nothingInstitute left,” saysofJesse. “It Leadership is people like this who have Acadiana. made the company what it is today, “During my and timeI feel withblessed to work with individuals.”

Advancial, I’ve these been able to take the many things Jesse is also to know I’ve learned overproud the years that the company they’ve and really give back to helpedI love buildso supports the home much,” around 200 families says Lacey. “I believe in in the doingcommunity my part toevery buildyear. a community that will support generations to come.”

CLOTHING PROVIDED BY BALLIN’S LTD ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

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SPONSORED

Angela C. Lalande Owner/Attorney Lalande Title A USA Today Bestselling Author, Angela empowers others to pursue their dreams and live out their purpose-filled destiny. Her newest book, Pierce the Night: How to Shine Again After You’ve Lost Your Light, is expected to be released this February.

Across Acadiana, Angela is known for her experience as a real estate attorney and owner of Lalande Title, where she provides seamless closing transactions for everyone involved in the process. A full-service real estate company, Lalande Title offers home buyers, realtors, lenders, and builders title insurance, escrow and closing services for both residential and commercial properties.

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CLOTHING PROVIDED BY BALLIN’S LTD

SPONSORED

Deborah Pierce Owner and CEO, The Red Star Team at Keller Williams Realty After several years as a top nonprofit fundraising director, Deborah made the move to business owner.

In 2015, she founded The Red Star Team at Keller Williams Realty, which has since become Acadiana's top real estate group and the number two team in the state of Louisiana.

With a passion for seeing others grow and prosper, Deborah enjoys making a difference in the lives of clients and team members.

Known for her leadership and commitment to helping others, she believes that business is an avenue for personal growth.

"My faith is my foundation for life,” she says. “Because of that, I see my business as an opportunity for our team members and others to discover and achieve their life mission.”

PANTS PROVIDED BY BALLIN’S LTD

SPONSORED

Lindsay Meador Young Director/Family Law, Attorney at Galloway, Johnson, Tompkins, Burr & Smith Known for her peoplefirst approach, Lindsay is a confident yet understanding attorney continuously present for each client and their particular needs.

“My favorite part of being an attorney is helping people in what is often the most difficult time of their lives and giving back to those in need,” says Lindsay.

Lindsay has served as the Pro Bono Advisory Board Chair at the Lafayette Bar Association for five years. For her dedication to both her work and to volunteerism, she has received the Lafayette Volunteer Lawyers’ Outstanding Attorney Award, the Lafayette Bar Association’s Tammy Derouen Outstanding Service to the Bar Award, the Louisiana Bar Foundation’s Friend of Pro Bono Award, and the Louisiana State Bar Association’s Young Lawyer Division Pro Bono Award and Hon. Michaelle Pitard Wynne Professionalism Award.

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RECET T E S DE CO C K TA I LS

Sleigh Rides and Spices Cinclare Southern Bistro takes guests on a festive cocktail ride with a party-perfect potion for making spirits bright

by Lisa LeBlanc-Berry photo by Romero & Romero

When it comes to throwing a stand-out holiday party or a festive winter-themed soirée, greeting your guests with a memorable signature drink upon arrival always sets a celebratory tone. Add a flourish to any component of a classic sour cocktail, and you have a personal, signature libation tied to the occasion.

Few drinks in the cocktail canon are as quick to satisfy as a classic whiskey sour. Dating back to the 1870s, it has spawned countless variations.

One well-established version includes a red wine float that transforms it into a New York Sour.

Jeffrey Markel, GM and bar manager at Cinclare Southern Bistro (cinclarefoodanddrink.com), offers a Sleigh Ride Sour to complement Chef Logan Boudreaux’s winter offerings. Utilizing the basics of a New York Sour, Markel’s Sleigh Ride Sour is kicked up a notch with a spiced apple cider reduction balanced by fresh lemon juice and a merlot float. The dark fruit flavors and smoky finish of the dry wine bring out Buffalo Trace bourbon’s complex aromas of vanilla, mint, molasses and spices.

Simmered with cinnamon sticks, cloves, allspice berries, star anise and orange zest, Markel’s spiced apple cider can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. “It’s versatile and can be used with various desserts, pancakes and other cocktails,” he says.

Markel’s seasonally-inspired cocktails are created in conjunction with Executive Chef Logan Boudreaux’s transcendent, seasonal menu that combines contemporary Cajun cuisine with traditional French influences. Coconut shrimp boulettes, seared scallops with Cajun caviar cream and a sous vide magret de canard with a cherrypomegranate reduction are among the specials attracting Boudreaux’s cult-like following.

Menus are created in partnership with pastry chef Shelbi Orgeron, Chef Boudreaux’s fiancée.

“We’re at our pinnacle, doing what we love,” he says.

After a few sips of Cinclare’s Sleigh Ride Sour, you’ll be transported to a snowy winter reverie.

Several more swigs, and you just may hear those sleigh bells ringing. ■

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R EC I P E

Sleigh Ride Sour In a cocktail shaker, add 1½ ounces good quality bourbon whiskey (preferably Buffalo Trace), ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice and ½ ounce spiced apple cider reduction with ice and short shake (no more than 3-4 shakes). Strain over fresh ice into a rocks glass. Slowly layer about an ounce of Malbec wine over the top. Garnish with a dried orange slice sprinkled with spices.

TO GET THE RECIPE FOR THE SPICED APPLE CIDER REDUCTION, DRIED ORANGE SLICES AND TO SEE A VIDEO OF THE COCKTAIL CREATION VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

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D ÎNE R DE HO R S

Cajun Comfort Forget your cares with flavorful fare at Fezzo’s in Crowley

by Eric Cormier photos by Joseph Vidrine

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Slow and relaxing days in Louisiana’s prairie and bayou region are enhanced by good food.

Fezzo’s staff prepares well-crafted margaritas and a superb grilled oyster combo platter. Attention to detail and kitchen patience are the foundation of the restaurant’s success.

S e p t. 5 , 2 0 2 1 f o r t h i s f o o t b a l l f a n was sobering.

The day before my alma mater the McNeese State Cowboys lost to the University of West Florida, an NCAA Division II team (national champions no less, but still in a lower division). Adding to the dismay, Louisiana State University — a team I root for because it is the state flagship school — was whupped by UCLA. Starting off the much-anticipated football season in such a way left my soul empty and doubting the chances for a strong showing for either Louisiana school.

Therefore, to shake off the football blues (I get hungry when this occurs), I ventured east on Interstate 10 from Lake Charles to a place that serves authentic Cajun food which I knew would improve my outlook on football life and activate the taste buds.

Fezzo’s Seafood, Steakhouse, and Oyster Bar has three locations. But the venue I visit when the body has a hankering for earthy roux-based gumbos, rich sauces and gravies, fried seafood or a grilled steak is located in the Rice Capital of the World … Crowley.

Football losses only added to the proverbial “edge” many of us are experiencing along Louisiana’s Gulf Coast. Hurricane recovery, insurance battles, hiding from

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T RY T H I S !

Savory Sampling

1

Seafood Gumbo How do you know a Cajun/Creole restaurant has good cooks? Sip a cup or bowl of gumbo.

Fezzo’s gumbo with shrimp, oysters and other goodies leaves no doubt about the kitchen staff’s skills.

2

Creamy Crawfish and Tasso Pasta The smoked meat melded with the pearl of the rice patty in a smothered rich sauce is sinful.

3

Phil’s Seafood Festival Oysters, shrimp, fish, alligator, crab cake, stuffed shrimp and seafood étouffée on one plate makes a person want to do the Zydeco shuffle.

4

Smothered beef steak What’s wrong with this version of smothered beef, onions, bell pepper and covered over rice? Not a darn thing!

5

Catfish Festival Oh Lawd … pick your style with fried or grilled catfish, placed on a bed of rice and topped with an ample amount of étouffée (crawfish, shrimp or seafood).

FOR MORE IMAGES OF FEZZO’S VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

The Fezzo’s team sources fresh vegetables and seafood to make sure the dining experience is unforgettable. Phil and Pat Faul have spent years developing the restaurant’s menus to pay homage to the kitchen expertise of their Cajun ancestors. They also created a dining room atmosphere that makes a customer feel at home.

COVID-19 and Noah’s Ark-style flooding makes the body weary. For this eating occasion, an appetizer of fried eggplant medallions covered with a creamy shrimp sauce and a plate of Fezzo’s Cajun Trio — individual cups of seafood gumbo, shrimp and okra gumbo, and seafood étouffée were the delicacies that reset my biorhythms in a positive way.

Restaurant owners Phil and Pat Faul and their business partner Winford “Pat” Borders II constructed the menu and restaurant setting to encourage a customer to slow down, tune in/tune out and improve their perspective on life no matter how complicated the world is.

Flavorful food is meant to cajole one to focus on their plate or bowl, not the past or future.

“We cook food with the intention of stirring the pot like my grandma used to do. Our dishes are cooked slow and layered with flavor the correct way. It may take a little longer and possibly be a little expensive for us, but there is no value you can put on the flavor of the food when prepared correctly,” Phil Faul told me.

The Fauls and Bordes opened Fezzo’s in 1999.

As a point of information a “fezzo” is actually the Cajun French word for a wooden spool.

What does a spool have to do with the restaurant’s name you might be wondering?

According to Fezzo’s website (fezzos.com), “A long time ago, when Phil’s father was a young boy in Church Point, Louisiana, he was very creative with his toys. His favorite toys were things he made with his mother’s empty wooden spools. Everywhere he went he always had these spool toys with him. One day, the local postmaster began calling him Fezzo — a name he carried with him all his life.”

Faul said it was a no-brainer to name the restaurant after his father. His father’s, mother’s, and grandmother’s kitchen experience also influenced a lot of the dishes.

There is one though, that has Phil and Pat’s input all in it ... the seafood étouffée.

Shrimp and crawfish combined with a spicy sauce all smothered together in a pot and served with rice will help shake off any football related angst.

Heading back to Lake Charles I hummed McNeese State’s fight song “Jolie Blon” and LSU’s fight song “Fight for LSU.” Suffice to say, my mind was at peace and the belly was satisfied.

Such is the final result when eating food out of Fezzo’s winning kitchen.■

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DE L A C U IS INE

Scents of the Season Classic dishes to enjoy during the holiday’s quiet moments

by Marcelle Bienvenu photo & styling by Eugenia Uhl

Like most people, I enjoy the holiday season. Going to parties, hosting small gatherings, decorating my home, making fudge and wrapping gifts is the essence of celebrating at this time of year.

The aromas of fresh pine garlands, cinnamon cookies baking in the oven and a pork roast roasting on Christmas Eve are indeed the scents of the holiday that give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

But, I do like spending some quiet time with my husband and taking a break from all the mayhem. During the week between Christmas and New Year’s, (my mother called this time a lull between two storms), I enjoy having a nice dinner. With luck, there is a fire roaring in the fireplace and we can enjoy some classic and traditional Christmas music.

Pop open a bottle of your favorite Champagne or mix up your favorite beverage and relax.

To begin, an appetizer that my husband adores is deviled eggs. He loves them year round — plain ones, some loaded with crab meat or smoked salmon, his favorite made with pimento cheese — but for a special occasion, he usually requests caviar eggs.

Mashed potatoes jolted with blue cheese and half-and-half are always a good side with the beef. Steamed asparagus spears tossed gently with olive oil and minced garlic, salt and black pepper are also a good choice. I say serve both. ■

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FOR PERFECT BOILED EGGS: Put room-temperature eggs in a small saucepan and add enough water to cover them.

Bring to a boil, then put a lid on the pot, turn off the heat and allow to sit for 15 minutes. Then drain off water and add cool tap water to the pot to cool before peeling.

APPETIZER

D E S S E RT

Caviar Eggs

Chocolate Mousse

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This easy mousse is a great ending to a superb meal for two.

3 hard-boiled eggs 1 teaspoon snipped chives 1 tablespoon mayonnaise 1 teaspoon sour cream 1 teaspoon softened butter salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 ounces black or red caviar CUT eggs in half lengthwise.

Remove yolks and put them through a sieve or pulse them several times in a food processor. Combine them with chives, mayonnaise, sour cream and butter and season to taste. Mix well.

SPOON mixture into egg whites.

Chill for at least one hour. When ready to serve, top each with some of the caviar.

MAIN COURSE

Stuffed Filet Mignon MAKES 2 SERVINGS

5 tablespoons olive oil ¼ cup minced bell peppers ¼ cup minced onions 2 filet mignons (about 8 ounces each) ¼ cup cream cheese seasoned with coarsely ground fresh black pepper, minced garlic, a pinch of dill, a few dashes of Tabasco sauce, and a teaspoon of Creole mustard 1 tablespoon soy sauce ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 large egg 1/2 cup water 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped fine 1 tablespoon Kahlua 1/2 cup well-chilled heavy cream chocolate curls and fresh raspberries for garnish, optional IN A SMALL SAUCEPAN whisk together sugar and cornstarch.

Add egg and water and whisk until mixture is smooth. Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat, whisking and simmer it, whisking vigorously for about one minute. Remove pan from the heat and add chocolate and the Kahlua.

STIR mixture until the chocolate melts completely. Transfer mixture to a metal bowl set in a bowl of ice and cold water. With a handheld mixer, beat it until it is cold and lightened slightly.

IN ANOTHER BOWL, beat cream until it just holds stiff peaks. Fold it into the chocolate mixture gently but thoroughly.

SPOON mixture into parfait or small wine glasses. Chill at least six hours before serving. Top with chocolate curls and raspberries if you wish.

HEAT 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add bell peppers and onions and cook, stirring, until they are slightly wilted, about 2 minutes. Combine with the seasoned cream cheese and set aside.

USING A SHARP KNIFE, cut a pocket into the side of the filets about 2 inches long and 1 ½ inch deep, and stuff steaks with the cream cheese mixture.

Close and secure with toothpicks.

RUB steaks well with a tablespoon of

olive oil, soy sauce and black pepper.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Cook filets 3 to 4 minutes on each side depending on how you like your steaks or you can grill them on an outdoor grill.

FOR THE MASHED POTATOES WITH BLUE CHEESE RECIPE VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

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EN FRA N Ç A I S, S’I L VO U S P L A Î T

Laissez les Le Passager Clandestin Le légume éponyme de notre plat national par David Cheramie

Je n’étais pas exactement ce qu’on appelle un enfant délicat. Je mangeais tout ce qu’on pouvait trouver sur une table en Louisiane du sud : des chevrettes frites, des po-boys, des écrevisses bouillies ou à l’étouffée, des macaronis, des hamburgs, des hot-dogs, etc., etc., etc. Les cuisines américaine, cadienne et créole se côtoyaient joyeusement, souvent dans la même assiette. Malgré mon appétit dévorant même pour la verdure, je n’arrivais pas à avaler un légume qui, paradoxalement, fait partie aujourd’hui de mes plats préférés. Ma mère n’essayait même pas de me le servir; elle me donnait un passe puisque je mangeais tout le reste j’imagine. Une fois, chez une tante, par politesse je me suis forcé à ingérer cette coction visqueuse que mes cousins s’en filaient à grands coups de cuillère.

J’ai juré de ne plus jamais consommer cette abomination culinaire pendant longtemps.

Des années après, j’ai compris mon erreur.

Je me privais inutilement d’une plante qui portait notre culture sur ses tiges.

J’ai nommé le gombo.

Selon Jessica B. Harris, cette cosse mucilagineuse raconte l’histoire de la diaspora africaine.

Il est plutôt certain que dès 1719, les premières graines de gombo arrivaient en Louisiane dans les poches des Africains vendus en esclavage. Largement associé avec l’Afrique occidentale, une espèce de gombo a été néanmoins cultivée dans la vallée de la HauteÉgypte au 13e siècle. L’historienne Gwendolyn Midlo Hall a déterminé que la plupart d’Africains transportés en Louisiane étaient originaires de la Sénégambie. Ses différentes appellations—gombo, févi, okra—viennent tous d’une langue africaine : Bantu, Fon et Igbo respectivement, et confirment la connexion tragique entre la plante et la traite

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esclavagiste transatlantique. Tout comme les blues sont nés du désir d’exorciser les démons de la tristesse, la cuisine à base de gombo donnait de la force au corps et à l’âme à confronter les ignominies quotidiennes. Depuis, nous partageons et célébrons la victoire de la vie avec chaque repas, sans oublier que c’est une nourriture riche en minéraux, vitamines, antioxydants et fibre.

On trouve des influences africaines, françaises et amérindiennes dans l’évolution complexe du plat national louisianais. Selon les régions et les époques, on peut constater une grande variété surprenante d’ingrédients. Un des seuls constants est l’emploi du gombo. On peut, néanmoins, diviser la soupe gombo en deux catégories : gombo févi et gombo filé. Le dédoublement du nom implique la présence de la plante gombo dans la soupe gombo, souvent avec des fruits de mer. Ce dernier, à base de viande d’ordinaire, inclut l’ajout de filé, des feuilles moulues de sassafras, une pratique qu’on hérite des peuples indigènes. Les deux épaississent la soupe, mais sous aucun prétexte doit-on les mélanger.

Je dois remercier ma tante de m’avoir servi un jour ce bol de gombo févi, sans lequel, je n’aurais jamais compris l’aphorisme français, « Dis-moi ce que tu manges : je te dirai ce que tu es ». Autrement dit, la nourriture est à FOR AN ENGLISH la base de la culture et TRANSLATION VISIT la culture est à la base ACADIANAPROFILE.COM de notre identité.■

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