India 2015

North India Adventure February 12 – March 10, 2015

Delhi ◆ Hotel Swati

Varanasi ◆ Hotel Surya

River Ganges ◆ Camping

Bhandhavgarh ◆ Wildflower Resort

Khajuraho ◆ Hotel Surya

Orchha ◆ Orchha Resort

Chanderi ◆ Shreekunj Hotel

Agra ◆ Royal Regency

Bharatpur ◆ Birder’s Inn

Jaipur ◆ Arya Niwas

Mandawa ◆ Mandawa Haveli

Bikaner ◆ Harasar Haveli

Jaisalmer ◆ Nachna Haveli

Osiyan ◆ Osiyan Safari Camp

Jodhpur ◆ Polo Heritage

Michael Dows, Marty Dows, Carol Gowing, Kim Mishoe, Leanne Brown, Marek Mirski, Karioka Mirski, Martha Szka, Connie Gatt, Frank Gatt, Avdesh Avasthi, Diana Green, Rose Green, Michael Mayr, Elke Henning.

Delhi Hotel Swati Private car, Metro, bicycle rickshaw

Humayan’s Tomb Qutab Minar Agrasen Ki Baoli Old Delhi Spice Market Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib Jama Masjid

Using a private car and guide, drove to South Delhi passing the presidents estate, and along the majestic Rajpath roadway to the India Gate. Next the famous landmark Qutab Minar, 13th century structure made of red sandstone and marble and has verses from the Quran intricately carved in it. Vegetarian lunch of Bhatura (puffed up) bread and a chick pea curry.

Then went to Humayun’s Tomb, another imposing structure in red sandstone built as a memorial to Mughal emperor Humayun by his grieving wife in 16th century.

Near the entrance went to the 18th century enclosed garden tomb of Safdarjang and then a quick stop to see the historic Ugrasen ki Baoli step well.

Crossroads restaurant for dinner having Kashmiri Dum Aloo (a rich spicy potato dish), garlic naan bread, sweet corn soup and vegetable spring rolls for lunch.

Next morning went to Old Delhi by Metro, walked through narrow laneways to Chandni Chowk Road then along more interesting narrow laneways to the Mughal built mosque Jama Masjid.

Then went to the Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a famous Sikkh gurudwara, quite elaborate inside with musicians playing and singing, many seated in prayer. We then went to the community kitchen at the rear of the to see the preparation of the many free meals that are made and given to anyone that asks.

Took cycle rickshaws to the spice market where we bought a variety of spices and mango tea. Back by Metro and a late lunch at Spicy by Nature near our hotel where we both had Pad Thai and Kingfisher beer before boarding our 7 pm train for our 12 hour overnight journey.

Humayan’s Tomb

Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb

Qutab Minar

Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikkh Temple)

Jama Masjid, Delhi

Old Delhi

Train to Varanasi

Varanasi Hotel Surya Camping by the Ganges Overnight train, motorised rickshaw, motorised boats,

Aarti ceremony Morning boat ride Walk along the ghats

Interesting sights in the morning after our overnight train from Delhi, fields of farming land, women in the fields, cows, and pottery being made by hand.

Arrived at Varanasi 10am and transferred to the Surya Hotel in tuk tuks.

We had another daredevil driver occupying any vacant spot available in the noisy, bumpy yet fun ride in the chaotic traffic.

After lunch in the Surya Hotel, a short freshen up then tuk tuks to the bazaar where we walked in the mad congestion of people, rickshaws, tuk tuks, cars and cows.

Not long before we had the sacred Ganges River in front of us. We walked along the many ghats. Prayer sessions in progress, a few cremations commenced and one on a large pile of wood with body wrapped in sheets.

In the evening went out in a motorised boat, a candle flower ceremony.

Lots of bells sounding, incense, chanting for the daily ritual Aarti ceremony.

Next day on the Ganges at 6am for sunrise by boat. Cool and serene with lots of birds about, the sun rising and appearing a brilliant red behind the foggy mist on the horizon. Devotees were bathing, praying and submerging themselves in water.

Piles of ash from last night’s cremations, After breakfast a 2 hour ride to the start point for our boat ride. Our group were in 3 row boats and a fourth our kitchen. We stopped downstream for a superb smorgasbord lunch of various Indian dishes before continuing our slow trip along the Ganges for around 3 hours. Stopped on the bank which stretched endlessly with sand for our overnight camp. As with sunrise, the sun set as a brilliant red disc.

Along the ghats and Aarti by the Ganges

Sunrise by the Ganges

Sunrise by the Ganges

Camping by the Ganges

Bandhavgarh Wildflower Resort Motorised boat, Private bus, Train, Private van

Nature walk Jeep Safari

Departure at 6am by boat for 30 minutes then a steep climb up the bank to our private transport. We stopped on the bridge at Triveni Sangam (meeting of rivers) for the view over the large expanse, with areas set up with tents as people making their pilgrimage to Varanasi for Shiva’s birthday.

Drove for 2 hours stopping for lunch in Allahabad. So many sights along the way, pilgrims making their journey to Varanasi in bare feet with some 120km still to go.

Women from the Jain religion also on foot, some with escort. One man making his pilgrimage rolling his body along the roadway.

A 3½ hour delay, then a 4½ hour train journey. Arrived in Kati 7.30pm then another 3 hour drive to reach the Bandhavgarh National Park for our two night stay. The last hour on some of the bumpiest road you could imagine.

After late breakfast Connie went on a nature walk with the group and a local naturist, followed by lunch at the resort.

At 3 pm we all went on our jeep safari with each jeep having a local guide. Along the way we saw peacocks, wild boar, a few species of deer, stork and the two types of monkeys inhabit the reserve.

Back around 6.30 pm, Connie went to the buffet dinner with the group in the outside rotunda with an open fire.

Leaving the Ganges

To Bandhavgarh

Bandhavgarh National Park

Khajuraho Hotel Surya Private bus

Local Fair Dance Show Family Lunch Western Temples

We left around 11.30am by private bus for the seven hour drive to Khajuraho. I wished I could have photographed all the wonderful scenes along the way. Stopped in a small village for snacks where westerners wouldn’t often go, let alone have them stop in the village and we soon gathered a crowd and became the centre of attraction.

Another brilliant sunset as we arrived in Khajuraho to find a fair on in the town, with lots of noise and activity. Had an excellent western Thali for dinner, soup, half chicken and such tasty mixed vegetables at Agrasen Restaurant.

Next morning had a continental breakfast in the hotel courtyard then walked to the nearby western temples where we had a local guide take us through. The sandstone carvings were extremely intricate with minute details even showing jewellery, hair and fingernails. Our guide was informative but entertaining, especially when giving information on the erotic carvings. We continued on after our guide left looking through a number of the other temples on the site.

It was interesting walking through the back streets where we had a home cooked lunch in one of the homes with a local family. We all sat in their large bedroom as the husband brought us our drinks followed by a Thali meal. It was also interesting listening to them talk on their family traditions and ways.

Went for a short walk through the local fair which was quite an experience, lots of colour and noise, ferris wheel with motor and moving parts all exposed as people entered, boar eating sugar cane husks left over from making juice, men getting hair cut and shave, and of course the roaming cows.

Relaxed in the hotel courtyard having a beer before leaving for the traditional dance show. We booked early in the day told we’d get front row and end up with back row.

Hotel Surya

Family Lunch

Dance Show

Local Fair

Orchha Orchha Resort Private bus

Chhatris Cenotaphs Ram Raja Temple Aarti Ceremony Jahangir Mahal Orchha Palace Vendana’s Cooking Demonstration School and village visit

Visited at a paper making facility. Arrived around 1.30pm, an excellent buffet lunch with some welcome salads. Stayed in permanent tents at the beautiful Orchha Resort, alongside the Betwa River with a backdrop of the Chhatris Cenotaphs.

We had a guided walk to the cenotaphs then into town and to the Orchha Palace (Jahangir Mahal), inside the battlement walls and fort complex. Amazing architecture and a massive complex. Many courtyards and several hundred rooms, an elephant entrance, a central bathing pool and several jacuzzis, multiple levels, towers and some rooms with frescos. Finishing the tour on the upper level for a stunning sunset.

Wandered about and a walk over the bridge before going to the Ram Raja Temple for their daily aarti (worship). Men and women were lined up in separate railed off queuing areas as well as many seated on the floor. When a doorway opened on the alter and the session started, there was singing and prayers. After some time the priest came out, the gates were opened and the long queues proceeded to enter and receive holy water blessings, then gave their offerings. Such an amazing experience with so much energy. It was also wonderful to be a part of this and not have anyone allowed in with cameras. Dinner at a small restaurant rooftop nearby.

Next day to Vendana’s cooking demonstration. She sat on the floor with a portable set of powerful gas burners, starting by making Masala Chai (Winter Chai), the popular tea we have been drinking for the last week. Then Aloo Palak (using cauliflower instead of spinach), Baigan (eggplant dish), Vegetable Pulao, Raita (curd/yoghurt with spices) as well at Puri. Next we visited a junior school, then a bumpy ride into some rocky barren land for our village visit.

Dinner on the rooftop at the restaurant, balloons and a birthday cake for Leanne.

I had peas paneer and Connie paneer pakora.

Ram Raja Temple

Chhatris Cenotaphs

Jahangir Mahal Orchha

Chanderi Hotel Shree Kunj Private bus Jeep

Chanderi Museum Koshak Mahal Khandargiri Temple

Bumpy 3 hour ride for a lot of the trip driving through Jhansi, at one point we had to detour as an armed official wouldn’t let us through a town as elections were in progress. As usual cows everywhere, sleeping on the road having us drive around them and we even passed a man walking his elephant along the road.

Went on a 3 hour walking tour of the town, the jama masjid, the ornate gate and the huge step well. Along the residential streets, many homes painted with writing and symbols (lotus flower and bicycle) representing the political parties, women walking with wedding offerings, cows, pigs and even a mongoose. A very peaceful walk, no beggars, no hassling. Lots of slate flooring both inside buildings and along the streets. Near the large Jain Temple, we stopped in an old building for lemon chai, then walked through the narrow streets of the market area, again very peaceful and we felt so much more relaxed. Tiny shops, men sewing, men getting shaves, men playing chess, cows, women in their balconies as well as the usual market stalls.

Went to our guide’s house for dinner. Walking through many winding and twisting laneways, waft of incense and music coming from all directions (nearby weddings as well as from homes), colourful lights hanging along the way and dodging the cow turds using our torch light. We sat on the rooftop, with colourful red lights, a crescent moon and a view to the lit hilltop fortress. The call to prayer being sounded from mosques in different directions. Our guide host gave us an insight into muslim life and Chanderi which has around 40% muslim and 60% combined Jain, Hindu and Christian population. He was very interesting and very enthusiastic, not just a tour guide, but painter, historian and journalist. He is actively discovering new archeological findings in the Chanderi district and trying to promote the area as a tourist destination.

Royal Hunting Lodge

Chanderi Museum

Dinner with KalleyBhai

Jain Street Procession

Khandargiri Temple

Koshak Mahal

Train Station

Step Well

Badal Mahal Gate

Jama Masjid

Village walk

Village walk

Chanderi rock paintings

Agra Hotel Atithi Royal Residency Private bus Local bus

Taj Mahal Red Fort Fatehpur Sikri

Left for the Taj Mahal 5.40am by bus, a short drive then we changed into an eco-friendly bus (petrol/diesel buses not permitted near the Taj Mahal).

Still dark we were the very first ones in the queue (a queue for men and one for women). First in with our guide as the gates opened at 6.50am Once at the entry structure an unobstructed view of the Taj Mahal in an eerie misty winter’s fog.

The long early morning wait was worth it as we walked to and around the majestic structure with next to no people around us.

Back to the hotel for a late breakfast then to the Agra Fort. Unlike our quiet entry to the Taj Mahal, it was buzzing with tourists here. An impressive entry with the large red sandstone bastions and another local guide to take us through.

Impressive courtyards, the hall of public audience with its throne alcove and small marble mosque.

Transferred to the hotel Royale Residency for a late lunch and farewell to Mike and Marty who are joining another group for their tour of Rajasthan. Met our new tour leader and five additional people and went out for dinner.

Went by private bus to the nearby bus station, took a local bus for the one and a half ride to Fatehpur Sikri, the former imperial capital of the Mughal emperor Akbar.

Toured the Royal Palace then walked up to the Jama Masjid where up to 40,000 can congregate in prayer at one time. At it’s front a spectacular massive great gate.

In bare feet we were given hats (looked like plastic food strainers) to wear into one of the beautiful tomb complexes, inside devotees with hands clasped as if reading a book in prayer, a man waving a bunch of peacock feathers across the tomb, rose petals being sprinkled as others gave offerings of money. Then walked through the market area to a small restaurant for a wonderful and welcome Thali.

Fatehpur Sikri Market

Agra Fort

Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri Jama Masjid

Taj Mahal

Bharatpur Birder’s Inn Jeep Cycle Rickshaw

Kaoladeo National Park

Travelled by jeep hour to Bharatpur for our stay at Birder’s Inn near the Keoladeo National Park. Then taken by cycle rickshaw for 3 hours through the 29 square kilometre park. The wetland area quite beautiful, we saw many varieties of birds, peacocks, cormorants, ducks, eagles, ibis, cranes as well as monkeys, cows, mongoose, antelope, deer, boar and jackals. The park was originally a hunting ground, a plaque commemorates some past hunts including one day when over 4000 birds were shot.

Had a sumptuous buffet dinner at the hotel then heard quite a bit of commotion outside to find a wedding procession in the street in which the groom was being led to the bride’s house. At the front a cart with colourful lights then a line of men holding beams of tall lights, then a small band of drummers, a procession of people dancing followed by a brightly lit and colourfully decorated cart with the groom sitting up high and also colourfully adorned.

We all then sat outside our room for drinks. A beautifully setting on the balcony overlooking the trees and lovely courtyard with fireworks lighting the sky as part of the wedding procession.

Kaoladeo National Park

Jaipur Arya Niwas Local bus Auto rickshaw Private bus

Amber Palace Amber Fort Hawa Mahal Raj Mandir Theatre Jantar Mantar

Travelled on a “No Dust” and “Comfort Unlimited” local bus from in front of our hotel. Lunch at the Arya Niwas hotel in the pink city Jaipur, then an orientation walk taking us near the Raj Mandir Cinema where we took a rickshaw to the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), and yet another crazy drive getting there.

We continued on to the bazaar area seeing some fabric being dyed on the street then a street seller took us upstairs for elevated views over the town and across to the fort on the mountain with walls that extended all along the mountain ridge.

Rickshaw back to the hotel, everyone gathered in our room for drinks before going to dinner at a south Indian restaurant, both had dosas, filled with potato and accompanied with several sides.

Went to Hawa Mahal again to see in the morning light, the drove up to Amber Fort and walked up to the entrance gate watching the many coloured elephants carrying other tourists. Walked through the many courtyards with our guide giving us descriptions about the fort and the areas of each section. In some areas it was like a labyrinth of corridors and rooms.

Then had some samosas at a street stall and later stopped for views of the water palace. Then went to the Jantar Mantar (observatory) that had a number of devices for calculating the time of day and the time of astrological sign. A world heritage site that has the largest sun dial in the world. Four of us crammed into a tuk tuk for a ride back to the hotel for a relax and some drinks.

Went to the Raj Mandir theatre to watch a Bollywood movie, followed by a thali at the hotel for dinner.

Hawa Mahal

Raj Mandir Theatre

Jaipur Streets

Jantar Mantar

Mandawa Mandawa Haveli Jeep Local bus

Village sightseeing Haveli visits

Jeep at 8 am to local bus station which was busy, dusty and crowded. Another comfortable bus for the 3 hour journey. The landscape not at all scenic but lots of activity to see by the roadway. People walking along the highway with yellow flags every so often, sometimes in groups, sometimes with people in a van followed by walkers. Some of the vans playing very upbeat music with people dancing both in the open vans as well as those following.

The drive was hair raising, high speed and always swerving from lane to lane to keep up the pace. I thought for sure we were going to collide at least 4 times but always managed to narrowly avoid any trouble. Many times cars just leisurely driving in the middle of the road with our driver overtaking to the right and off the road, and sometimes off the road to the left.

Off the bus transferring to jeeps, the terrain quite different and dry for around 40 minutes on roads that were potholed all the way. Arrived at the Mandawa Haveli 11.30 am and all of us in awe at the beautiful building and looking into all of the rooms which are all different in sizes and layouts. Our room was huge with its own open roof courtyard and separate bathroom. Had lunch then on a two hour walking tour around the town entering several havelis, some occupied and some derelict.

The now unused water system was interesting with a 30 metre tank and several other areas where water used to flow into tanks for bathing and also for animals to drink from. It had tall towers so that the passing visitors could easily see where the town water was available. There was also a men’s and women’s shower area.

Went to the rooftop at Monica’s Restaurant for dinner, mutton garlic and very salty cheese burger for Connie.

Mandawa Haveli

Mandawa Haveli – Rasesh Room

Mandawa Village

Other Havelis

Bikaner Harasar Haveli Jeep Local bus

Junagarh Fort

Woke to the sound of rain in our courtyard. Had the basic buffet breakfast at the haveli then into our jeep for the bumpy ride back to the bus stop on the highway. It poured with rain for a short while but stopped by the time we had to wait for the bus.

The local bus was comfy again and lovely new road made for a comfortable ride however after an hour we reached a spot where the new road wasn’t complete and all the traffic had to detour to the muddy gravel beside a new bridge being built. We were waiting for 75 minutes just to get through about 200 metres.

Arrived at the Hotel Harasar Haveli in Bikaner mid afternoon, a quick snack for lunch then walked to Junagarh Fort for a guided tour. Not long after we were inside it started to pour and thankfully a lot of the sights were inside.

We left in tuk tuks through lots of water as with no drainage even a short downpour leaves many of the streets flooded. Due to the downpour our evening home visit and dinner was cancelled and replaced with a wonderful buffet at the hotel.

Harasar Haveli

Junagarh Fort

Jaisalmer Nachna Haveli Thar Desert Camping Tuk Tuk Local bus Jeep Camel

Village orientation Desert camping

6.20am by tuk tuk to the train station. In Jaisalmer by tuk tuk to the beautiful Nachna Haveli. Tour with a local guide into the fort, visiting a haveli and cannon point lookout, walked through the interesting winding narrow alleyways dodging motorbikes, cows and carefully avoiding stepping into the cow droppings. Houses in this region having paintings by their front doors denoting the latest marriage of someone who lives there. Sat in a textile shop showing varieties of patchworks symmetrical, abstract, some made from villagers costumes.

Went to a local’s house for dinner. Bought cheap clothing for Holi, wandered around the narrow winding streets. Killa Restaurant for lunch, Connie a pizza and I had a peas and paneer curry.

Left in two jeeps around 2.30pm with our daypacks for our overnight safari.

We drove west for about 40 minutes into the Thar Desert where we started our safari, each of us on a camel with our daypacks on a camel cart. We rode for about two and a half hours stopping with a welcome stop for a stretch after an hour. Sunny and warm, blue sky and the sun starting to set. We stopped in an area of sand dunes approximately 75 kilometres from the border with Pakistan.

We sat atop the dunes as the sun set then around a fire accompanied by two musicians, playing flute like instrument and a drum and also having two dancers.

A beautiful sunrise with the camels and their minders preparing for our return.

Chai brought to our beds then some toast, jam and bananas. We rode for about an hour, far more comfortable on a different camel today and very pleasant early in the morning. Jeeps back to town for a welcome shower.

To Jaisalmer

Haveli visit

Nachna Haveli

Osiyan Osiyan Safari Camp Private van

Sachiya Mata Temple Village tour

Left at 8 am in private bus for our 5 hour drive to Osiyan arriving around 1.15pm staying at the Osiyan Safari Camp, several kilometres out from the town.

Permanent tents with full ensuite. A lovely lunch ready for us as we arrived.

Drove into town and with a guide went on a village walk, first to the Sachiya Mata Temple, outside stalls selling packs of special offerings. Temple is mainly visited by women as it is for the mother goddess. We stopped at a few other Jain temples then walked through the village to a huge step well (containing 1000 steps) that has been left to ruin and is falling apart, a remnant from the days when Osiyan was a major town on the silk route and having some 3 million people.

Back at the camp just after sunset, 5 musicians and 2 dancers entertained us for the night behind them lanterns of fire, a full moon and in the distance a bonfire as it was Holi eve. We all sat around a cauldron of fire for a wonderful night and joined in with the dance. One dancer performed with several containers on her head, dancing on broken glass, nails, balancing on two raised cylindrical cans then somehow managed to lower herself near to the ground and keep balance. We then had a wonderful dinner outside by candlelight followed by dancing and drinks. Closer to midnight we could hear Holi celebrations with drums sounding and singing as well as fireworks.

When we arrived in Osiyan and then drove out to our camping area I thought it would have been better to drive on the extra hour and spend more time in Jodhpur but the visit this smaller village and the camp stay was just a wonderful day.

Sachiya Mata Temple

Village Walk

Jodphur Polo Heritage Hotel Private van

Jaswant Thada Mehrangarh Fort

Set off in our private bus for one hour drive to Jodhpur on yet another day of blue skies. Driving into town we could see people everywhere that have been colouring each other for Holi. Went directly to the imposing Mehrangarh Fort touring using the supplied audio guides.

Then went to the Polo Heritage Hotel, had lunch then had our experience of playing with colours for the Holi day celebrations. We were then told that most of the Holi celebrations would be finished by now and we were quite disappointed but a few of us still ventured out by tuk tuk seeing very little of this rainbow festival, stopped at the market by the clock tower where at least we had some lovely purple added to our fully coloured hair, faces and clothing. As well as us taking photos of others we managed to have several locals stop wanting to take photos of us.

After long showers and lots of scrubbing we all went out for our last formal dinner.

After an excellent breakfast at the hotel, Connie stayed by the pool at the hotel and 5 of us went to the Jaswant Thada then walked up the hill to the fort and took steep the walkway down. Not long and we were walking along the narrow winding streets with most of the houses in blue. It didn’t take long before we were down in the market area, noisy with all the tuk tuks and traffic.

We walked around by the lake, another old stepwell full of rubbish, then wandered around the market area buying snacks for our overnight train.

Back at the hotel I had a rest and Connie went to the bazaar for some of the others in the group. We had an early dinner at the hotel before taking tuk tuks to the Jodhpur Railway Station boarding our train which was on time for its 8 pm departure.

Mehrangarh Fort

Holi

Jaswant Thada

Delhi Hotel Swati Metro

Paharganj Bazaar Karol Bagh Market

Back where we started at the Swati Hotel. Having breakfast we said our farewells to Carol and Mike who were off to the airport.

Metro to the Paharganj Main Bazaar with Leanne, lunch at a rooftop restaurant (Ruf Top Restaurant) with views up and down the market bazaar, six hours of shopping. Lemon and green chilli hanger dangling from their rooftop that we had seen at the front of many homes during our stay. The restaurant mustn’t have a liquor licence and was funny when they brought it to us, beer covered in a bag, three of them shielding it from view and pouring it into coffee mugs to further conceal it.

Back late afternoon, walked through the market at Karol Bagh making sure we made the most of our last day with some last minute shopping.

We travelled in row boats, motorised rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, local buses, private buses, camels, jeeps, metro trains, sleeper trains and commuter trains, we walked and climbed, we dodged the cow dung and we dodged the traffic.

We slept in hotels, basic tent, luxury tents, hotels, trains, under the stars in the desert, heritage havelis and a luxury resort.

We had lots of spicy food and lots of chai.

We visited many impressive sites.

At times we cringed but mostly we smiled.

We shared our trip with new friends, at times tired and sick once.

A most wonderful experience visiting this most colourful and interesting part of the world.

The End

Michael Dows, Marty Dows, Carol Gowing, Kim Mishoe, Leanne Brown, Marek Mirski, Karioka Mirski, Martha Szka, Connie Gatt, Frank Gatt, Avdesh Avasthi, Diana Green, Rose Green, Michael Mayr, Elke Henning.