France
France June 25 – July 16, 2013
Bayeux Beauvoir Amboise Sarlat Carcassonne Arles Beaumettes Annecy Lyon
◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
Ibis Budget Hotel Gue de Beauvoir Aubergea Forestiere Hotel Montaigne Ibis Budget Ibis Alres Au Ralenti du Lierre Annecy Hostel NH Hotel
Bayeux via Honfleur We caught a taxi to pick up our lease car, a brand new red Renault Clio around 9 am. A quick instruction on the car and we were ready to go but wait – we can’t fold the front seats down to get our small bags onto the back seat – the assistant shows us how to adjust the front seats but after he leaves we still can’t move them – then we realise it’s a 4 door car but alas no handles, so we open the back doors from the inside. The first few kilometres a little nervous whilst still in Paris but it didn’t take long to get onto the motorway although still a little daunting having not driven a manual for many years in addition to driving on the opposite side of the road in an unfamiliar location. For a long way we zipped along at the speed limit of 130kmh (yet still overtaken a lot of the time) and Connie continually having to get me to stop drifting to the right. We detoured off the motorway for a lunch stop at the scenic seaside village of Honfleur but on arrival it was a little frustrating trying to find somewhere to park in addition to having people just meandering on the narrow roads sightseeing and taking photos. It was picturesque especially on this sunny day as we walked along the canal and through the town. Many people dining outside had the area’s specialty of mussels. After checking in to the hotel we drove into the town centre then walked its beautiful streets. We visited the Bayeux Cathedral, yet another majestic awe inspiring structure with more beautiful stained glass windows and an eerie crypt. Next we visited the museum that houses the famous Bayeux Tapestry, an embroidery on linen from the 11th century which is 70 metres long and depicts the conquest of William the Conqueror.
Beauvoir, Mont St Michel, D–Day Beaches
There was a low lying fog at sunrise that quickly cleared to a clear blue sky. We set off for the D–Day Landing Beaches and our first stop at Arromanches, we missed a turn and after following our GPS we found ourselves back in Bayeux where we started. Reset the GPS and arrived at Arromanches at 9.40. At the top of the hill overlooking the beach and the remains of the armament used to create a harbour for the landing is a circular building housing the Arromanches 360 – a very emotional film that recreates the battle of Normandy and the landings, shown in a circular theatre of 9 large screens. Then walked down the steep hill into the town and onto the beach. Our next stop was Longues–sur–mer with its German gun embattlements – today amongst beautiful fields of poppies. The countryside so green – nearing Mont St Michel we detoured off the motorway and the scenery and villages were so beautiful and found us both pointing in all directions. We stopped at a clearing and before us miles of green pasture with lots of sheep and in the background stood Mont St Michel. What a wonderful decision to get off the motorway for this last drive. Hotel de Beauvoir’s owner is an artist with many of his paintings hanging in his foyer. Our bathroom soap holders – a soup ladel and in he shower a bent pasta ladel. Had a short sleep as we were going to visit Mont St Michel in the evening so that we would avoid the crowds and also be there at the right time to witness the tide rush in to surround the island. I then used one of the hotel bicycles to ride the path by the canal to Mont St Michel – a wonderful easy 4km ride with the canal on one side and fields of crops on the other with Mont St Michel in front of me,. When I returned we drove to one of the many car large parks where we caught a shuttle bus across the 2km causeway arriving around 7.30pm and walked along the walls to the northern side where we waited in the cold until around 8.45pm when we witnessed the tidal surge that quickly rushed in to cover the silt and surround the island. We couldn’t visit the abbey as it was closed at night but walked around the island and along its narrow laneways watching the sunset in the horizon around 10.15pm before returning.
Amboise
Left Beauvoir 9am, stocked up with groceries at Carrefour, set the GPS and off to Amboise, about 300km away. The first hour or so was delightful driving off the motorway passing through villages with beautiful countryside scenery. Towns having very narrow roads to negotiate, some with no pathways, just houses right next to the narrow roads – and trucks passing along too. We passed many signs indicating the coming of the Tour de France next month. Arrived in Amboise around 12.30, had baguettes by the Loire River before walking into town, stopping at the information centre then visiting the Amboise Chateau. Then drove to Auburge Forestiere Marcheroux, staying in a farmhouse’s converted stables, situated in the middle of the forest. On our first attempt using the GPS we drove down a sandy grassed track bouncing about with the tall grass scraping under the car but eventually found it using some landmarks and the basic map supplied by the owners. Such a peaceful and delightful place to stay. The owners cooked us a delicious four course meal of local specialties. We ate outdoors in such a tranquil setting with the chirping of the birds and the forest backdrop.
Chenonceau, Chambord
Breakfast was served in the main building – croissants, waffles, bread with some jam and of tea. It was overcast, we went to Chenonceau, only about 12km from our accommodation. Impressive from the outside stretching across the Cher River and even more impressive inside. It was fully furnished and decorated – the kitchens interesting and well fitted out. After our visit we sat in the park and had our lunch of baguettes filled with cheese, meat and tomato. Then drove along the Loire River passing Chateau Chaumont, then through Blois to Chambord, about an hour away. We passed a roundabout that was completely planted with grape vines. From driving along at 110kmh on open roads to having to quickly slow to 50, then 30 and drive through villages with the narrowest of roads. Chambord sits by the Cosson, a tributary of the Loire River. It is very impressive as you approach it – with its size and many outstanding turrets. Inside it is not furnished as much as the other chateaus we’d visited. It had a cleverly designed central spiral staircase that has two sets of stairs of which someone using one cannot see someone using the other.
St Aignan, Montresor, Loches Another overcast sky as we set off for the Chateau Azay Le Rideau. We took a wrong turn entering the motorway and found ourselves heading in the opposite direction without any opportunity of turning back for quite some time. Rather than turn back we decided to visit some smaller towns in the region. Our first stop was St Aignan on the River Cher. Narrow streets, always having me think that I could be driving the wrong way in a one–way street. We picked up a walking tour from the info centre and headed off, a lovely small quiet town, we walked up toward the cathedral and chateau at the highest point of the town. We stopped for lunch having burgers (in baguettes) with fries. By the time we continued our walk we found the town deserted and almost everywhere closed. Then drove on to Montresor on the Indrois River, an even smaller town with beautiful small winding narrow streets. Walked up to the chateau then to the park by the river and canals lined with willows. Then drove to a larger town Loches, on the Indre River and again picked up a town walking tour. We passed a number of people arriving to a wedding and many of them dressed in red and white. We walked to the highest point of the medieval part of the town, visiting the cathedral, passing the chateau, keep and the gardens next to the river. Finally the clouds broke up, blue skies, warm and sunny and back at Marcheroux we sat outside with our goodies for dinner. We saw hot air balloons floating right above us and all the aircraft passing overhead leaving trails of smoke behind them. We finished our stay at Marcheoux as we started, outside late at night on a lovely evening and our host giving us a farewell drink. Went for a short stroll along the deserted road with the forest either side of us – and although it was still bright at 10pm, it was dark under the canopy of the trees. There were many large orange slugs on the roadway with the constant warbling and tweeting of the birds.
Sarlat via Oradour Set off at 9am from Marcheroux, warm and sunny for our next destination, Sarlat le Caneda. Driving both on and off the motorway for around three hours with a stopover at Oradour sur Glane which has retained the ruins of the old village from the second world war as a memorial site. We visited the underground museum which gave an account of the war encounters in the region in addition to the massacre that occurred at Oradour on June 10, 1944 in which 642 (almost the entire town) were surrounded by the Nazis and killed. The men of the town were gathered in the town square and shot, the women and children were all locked up in the town church and set alight. Then the Nazis burnt down every building in the town. We walked through the ruins and then the cemetery. Another two hours driving to get to Sarlat, the final hour along very narrow and winding roads – quite surprised the GPS had us take this route. Arrived at Hotel Montaigne around 5 pm. Had a few hours rest before heading out for a first walk around the medieval part of Sarlat.
Along the Dordogne River Valley
We set off for a drive along the Dordogne River Valley, our GPS had us do a loop around Sarlat before I ignored it and just headed south away from Sarlat. Our first stop for the day was at Carsac–Aillac then to Vitrac with an excellent view of the Montfort castle. Next went to the hilltop town of Domme, parked at the bottom and walked up and into the town where we sat and had our baguettes for lunch with commanding views down to the Dordogne River and the valley beneath us. Then drove into Domme and followed the GPS into a pedestrian only main street with people yelling and waving at us. Next we attempted to drive to St Julien where I had read about an excellent viewpoint for La Roque Gageac – it shouldn’t have been that far but the GPS again had us taking so many narrow roads – some of it was quite picturesque but we travelled a lot further than we should have. We gave up and just drove directly to the stunning La Roque Gageac. It was sunny and the first hot day we have had for some time. We then went to Jardins de Marqueyssac and walked through the gardens and the long walk with more views along the beautiful river valley and and an excellent view of La Roque Gageac. Then drove to Beynac, another imposing Chateau sitting high on the hilltop – we stopped by the river.
Along the Vezere River Valley
Our first stop was at Les Grottes du Roc de Cazelle, a cliff that was inhabited from prehistoric times, and in the middle ages was made into fortifications and in the twentieth century used as a farm. It is now set up as a tourist park with recreations. We passed other similar caves as we drove along with our next stop at Les Eyzles which also had some buildings set into the cliff face. We walked between the rows of houses then sat by the river for lunch. Next we set off for La Roque St Christophe and yet again we were misled by our GPS, sending us off for about 30 or 40 minutes when it should have only been about 10 minutes away. We eventually got there, frustrated and annoyed yet again. This was similar to the other caves but it was massive with multi levels. They had a model of how it would have appeared in the middle ages as well as recreated rooms and machinery. We then went to the lovely small village St Leon sur Vezere and sat on the grass by the river, walked the streets before returning only be frustrated once again by having to return a long slow route along winding roads.
Martel, Gouffre de Padirac, Rocamadour
Overcast with patches of light drizzle we set off for the most famous chasm in Europe, Gouffre de Padirac. We first stopped in Martel, another beautiful small town. I walked into town on my own – the local market was full of colour and wonderful smells as I walked through, and busy with people. I walked through some more delightful narrow streets, houses decorated with flowers. Connie then joined me and in just a small space of time the market had emptied of shoppers – what a transformation. We drove on to Padirac to find a long queue to get in, taking us some 40 minutes. The chasm is some 35 metres in diameter. We descended down the many steps and once at the bottom followed a path that leads down more steps through caves to the underground river. Once there we walked for a few hundred metres by the river to a point where we are taken in boats to another section. Then a guide walks us through a number of chambers, up and down many steps. The rock formations and pools of water are beautifully lit to best show off these amazing wonders of nature. We finish the tour returning by boat – we took the three elevators back to the top. Photography isn’t allowed so I downloaded some from the internet to show just some of what we had seen although they don’t really relate what an amazing experience this was. We made up some rolls and had lunch back at the car – around 3.30pm already. Next we drove to Rocamadour, first stopping at a nearby lookout. We then drove to a car park well below the lowest of the streets in town going through the darkest and narrowest of tunnels. We walked up and up into the main and only street at the bottom of the town. Connie then took the elevator up to the next level and I walked the steps, yet we were still nowhere near the top. We walked up another zig zag section which had a cove/grotto of the Catholic stations of the cross with one at each end of the zig zag climb then yet more climbing to reach the chateau at the very top. Arrived back at the hotel around 7pm. As it was overcast, Sarlat would be lit up early so I went out around 10pm and took some photos. In the town square a clown with red hat and nose was entertaining the outdoor diners and passers–by. He was hilarious – following and mimicking people walking by and of course, I didn’t know what he was saying. He stopped one couple giving them his hat and took their camera to take their photo, then walked off taking photos of people in the restaurants. He then followed a girl on her mobile phone and mimicked her, walking just behind her. He eventually got to me, swapping my reading glasses for his hat and nose – I played the game and took long quick steps as he had been doing and proceeded to make off quickening my step and turning around the corner – he quickly came chasing me. I then turned of the lights on my reading glasses he was wearing, then he dashed off into the restaurants making as if he could now see the people there because he had the lights on with my glasses.
Sarlat, Canoeing the Dordogne
After breakfast we walked the medieval area of Sarlat, along the narrow streets with all the wonderful architecture. A labrador sat on a fence just watching passers–by – Connie sampled some wines. We just wandered about in this delightful town. We had lunch at Chez Le Gaulois and both had a dish containing a variety of 18 month matured hams, hot potatoes, melted French cheese ripened in wine. We enjoyed our meal and also the company of a French family and couple either side of us. After lunch we drove to Vitrac and hired a canoe for a two and half hour paddle down the Dordogne. We passed Domme, Cenac, La Roque– Gageac, Castelnaud and finishing just past Beynac. This was the best way to view the amazing towns and chateaus along the way. We paddled beside ducks and amongst a lot of growth in the river. Walked into the town centre around 9.30pm, there were high calibre buskers performing, firstly a couple singing, female on violin. Next two girls, accordian/drum and violin type instrument. Next a magician. The clown from the previous night appeared briefly before another busker took his spot. A beautiful night with the performances enhanced with this picturesque town as their backdrop. Such a lovely way to finish our five night stay in Sarlat.
Carcassonne, Canal du Midi
The first hour driving to Carcassonne was pleasant passing through Gourdon, another picturesque town, then the motorways until our detour for the day, and our first view of the Canal du Midi. We stopped at Castelnaudry which has the Tour de France pass through the next day. Then drove to Carcassonne and for a short while along the canal. We arrived early afternoon and had a rest for a few hours and as it was hot decided to tour the castle late in the day. Drove into the town centre around 4.45pm and must have been a peak time as it was busy with traffic and difficult with the one way road system. Eventually found a park and walked the very narrow roads in the centre to the tourist office for our maps. They advised it would be better just to walk to the medieval town. We crossed the river over the Pont Neuf from where you get the postcard view and then the climb up. Stopped for a break and a beer before setting off again to walk along the streets and visited yet another impressive church which featured very tall stained glass windows. We walked back to the car across the beautiful Pont Vieux, then drove through a very narrow road in the town centre (just enough room to get through next to the parked cars) to the other side next to the canal. I walked around the gardens and by the canal with it’s single lock. We drove past the lock and along the canal and stopped for a short while – it was serene here, the ducks and people in their barges setting up for dinner. We stopped at another location with great distant views of the medieval fortress with daylight fading. Dinner at a steakhouse around 10pm, Connie had chicken wings and I had steak. On our drive back from dinner we found the “main” entrance to the medieval town with its two large carparks – it was actually close to our hotel and we didn’t even know. Went for another wander, it was 11pm and still had many people visiting.
To Arles
We drove to Trebes, a small town by the canal du Midi for a short walk and views over the flower adorned bridge. Continued on along some beautiful countryside, many with avenues of trees that are situated right next to the road and passing seemingly endless fields of grape vines. Then stopped at Homps, another small town by the du Midi, a lovely bridge and seeing more people on their barges moored by the town. Wanted to visit or pass the ruins of the castle of the Maltese Knights, however they weren’t aware of it at the tourist information centre. We drove on to the large town of Beziers to see the “Les 9 Cluses de Fonseranes”, a series of (locks) eight chambers using nine gates to lower/raise boats 21 metres through the canal du Midi. It was difficult to find at first and had to drive around the busy city awhile before Connie used her ever improving navigating skills to get us there and we were fortunate to see a barge make its way through with husband steering and wife securing ropes to the sides to hold the barge in place as each chamber fills. We then got onto the motorway for the rest of the drive to Arles and found ourselves in by far the busiest motorway traffic so far and even had to queue up through one of the toll gates. It was hot when we arrived at our hotel mid afternoon and after we settled in went for a swim then relaxed on the lush grass by the pool. Afterward I went to the supermarket which was only 100 metres away for some of the usual – wine, cheese, sausage, baguettes etc. We picnicked in the room and rested until the heat got out of the day then drove into central Arles around 8pm. Walked to the Rhone River then into the ancient city with its many very narrow winding streets, its architecture quite different to the other towns we’ve visited. The antique theatre was set up with a massive white screen and lots of steel and lighting, being prepared for a show.
Pont du Gard
Another hot day so we got away early and drove to see the Pont du Gard which is part of an aquaduct that spanned 50km and built by the Romans in the first century. We took a pleasant driving route through Beaucaire, yet another town the Tour de France went through this year. On the way we continued to pass endless fields of vineyards and then large fields of sunflowers – Connie was ecstatic. Turned off into a narrow farm road then up a dirt track and stopped as Connie walked into the field to be amongst the sunflowers (and bees). Arrived at Pont du Gard mid morning and immediately walked to the top level and made the 11am walk through the actual water channel which was a highlight of the visit. We then walked all the way back to the reception centre as the English video screening was on at noon. I then walked back to the Pont du Gard to spend time at the base and take some photos. It was a Sunday and hot and there were lots of people picnicking along the river, swimming and canoeing. Then visited the museum with more information and displays about the aquaduct and the many others the Romans built throughout Europe. I had planned to make a short visit to another nearby town Uzes but decided it would be better to just relax in the heat of the afternoon and return. We again detoured amongst the sunflowers which had all now turned to face the sun in the opposite direction. We drove through further this time seeing more fields. Returning for lunch we forgot it was Sunday and nearly everywhere closed – we found a couple of fast food shops nearby and ate a Quick store which was excellent – thankfully we didn’t have to go to Macdonalds. And of course Connie had her beer and I a milkshake. Back in the ancient centre of Arles in the evening for a walk around. Very quiet this Sunday night, in total contrast to the night before.
Les Baux Drove through Fontvieille to Les Baux de Provence, a fortress and village that sits on a rocky outcrop. Arrived early and gained easy parking in the limited space and avoiding the crowds. Walked the lower village, lovely cobblestoned sloping streets and a small but interesting church and chapel. Paid entry to the upper chateau and grounds and walked an ordered tour using their audio guide. At 11am watched their display using several catapults. Continued on with the audio guide tour and finished by watching another demonstration, this time fighting – they involved the children which made it a bit of fun and would have been better if we could understand their commentary. Then drove on to St Remy and through some of the tree lined streets. We returned to Arles early afternoon, again passing fields of sunflowers. Picked up some of the usual goodies and picnicked for a late lunch, had a swim and lay by the pool for the afternoon.
Oppede le Vieux, Menerbes, Beaumettes
Driving to the Luberon we took a slower more scenic route. Passed through Maussane les Alpilles, the D78 to Eygalieres was closed however the alternate route was scenic with dramatic rocky outcrops and numerous olive trees. Next through Cavaillon to Oppede le View where we parked (paid) yet a long uphill walk to the lower village and again a long uphill walk to the church and chateau at the top. The church had workmen at the early stages of a complete restoration and the chateau was in ruins. The countryside views were the best thing after this hot long uphill walk. Back at the village the streets were quite interesting – a cycle tour group were there. This was a type of cycle tour that I’d seen a lot written about in the past and had always been of interest. The riders are given maps of a daily route and their luggage is transported to their next night’s accommodation. We drove past many of these groups throughout the day. A short drive on to Menerbes, another hilltop town, drove passed the lower carpark and through some tricky narrow roads and luckily found one parking spot right at the top of the town. The drive from Menerbes to our accommodation in Beaumettes wasn’t far but it took awhile as the scenery was amongst the best we’d seen so far and we drove so slowly and stopped a few times. We arrived at our delightful bed and breakfast, Au Ralenti du Lierre in this tiny place called Beaumettes. Our room on the third level, up a most beautiful spiral staircase, plaster lined and painted with stone and tiles steps. A communal kitchen for our use with a delightful outdoor area and pool and the most warm and friendly hosts. We rested awhile before going for a swim and then just lazed by the pool. In the evening drove to nearby Castellet and bought dinner, drinks and dessert that we enjoyed outside by the pool.
Gordes, Simiane le Rotonde Our hosts Michelle and Sylvain served breakfast in the garden by the pool, fruit salad, yoghurt, cherries, variety of breads with jams and honey, “real” orange juice and tea. A delightful setting, great breakfast and lovely hosts. Drove through Les Imberts to Senaque Abbey with its picturesque lavender fields then on to the majestic Gordes where we stopped below the town for a magnificent view and the postcard photo. We drove up and through the town – the usual narrow streets with everyone walking in front of our car, then parked and walked the interesting streets and at its perimeters with distant views of the countryside below. This was one of the most beautiful towns we’ve visited. Next we started a scenic drive I had researched which was off the main road and allowed us to drive slowly and truly appreciate this most beautiful part of the country. We passed Joucas, Lioux, Saturnin les Apt and Rustel with vineyards, lavender fields and beautiful rustic buildings. Approaching Lioux we drove past an amazing rock formation and then drove through a mountainous area toward Sault before detouring to Simiane le Rotonde, another hilltop town where we drove to the top and walked the few streets of this small town. Had our usual picnic lunch here before heading back on a different route. We drove through Gargas, then through the streets of Roussillon with its red ochre cliffs. Then passed through Goult before returning to Beaumettes and just a few hundred metres before arriving I had the gendarmes pull me over and book me for not stopping at a stop sign, blaaah!
L’isle de La Sorgue, Lacoste, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Bonnieux
Another lovely breakfast by the pool, such a delicious variety of breads that I’m starting to enjoy French breakfasts. We went to L’isle sur La Sorgue, Connie wasn’t feeling well and had to sit it out in the car and this happened to be the only town with no hills and a wonderful market on this day. The town has fast flowing clear waters running through it with much of the water in canals underground. The market was one of the best, if not the best so far with excellent presentation of many stalls. Yet another impressive elaborate church, and again many people with their dogs. Our next stop was at Fontaine de Vaucluse which has one of the most powerful natural springs in the world. The designated paid parking was again a long walk from town. I walked up to the ruins of the chateau, a steep, slippery climb mainly on rocks and it wasn’t worth the effort. We then walked along the stream and it was magnificent, fast flowing clear water, rapids, growth in the water, a wonderful sight every way we turned. Of the many photos I took, not one captures anything of the beauty of this place. We spent quite some time just admiring its beauty. We then crossed the bridge and followed the stream on the other side to the source of the water at the edge of the cliff face. We went to the museum showing the workings of the water wheel. Next we drove to Lacoste, another hilltop town. We managed to drive up and into the town but only stayed briefly before continuing on and stopped by the road where we could get a view of Lacoste from a distance. Then proceeded on some winding road to another hilltop town Bonnieux and again I managed to drive up and into the town and even parking near the top. Walked a few of the streets and had some excellent views. Driving up into these towns saved a lot of legwork but made for some hair raising driving in the narrow roads and again had to do some very very sharp turns. Back at Au Ralenti du Lierre we walked the tiny commune of Beaumettes which only takes about 10 minutes from one end to the other before spending time in and by the pool. Dinner in the garden, Cordon Bleu, a wonderful salad and bubbly.
Annecy
Michelle and Sylvain saw us off at their front door. Leaving Provence we passed numerous fruit trees and then massive fields of sunflowers and lavenders. We were still treated to beautiful countryside views, even along the motorway. Travelling quite a distance back north the scenery changed and we passed through large mountain ranges. With the long drive we didn’t detour but stopped at one of the many motorway rest areas and had our picnic lunch in the beautifully kept area along with many other travellers. We arrived at Annecy Hostel mid afternoon but this didn’t resemble what I had booked some seven months ago – there is more than one with the same name. It was drab looking from the outside and they are modernising it, a brand new bathroom in our room and the garden area in the process of building large undercover areas. We rested for a few hours after the long day in the car and late afternoon walked into the the historic centre of Annecy, just 10 minutes from the hostel. Such a pretty town, the flowers, canals and bridges. On Pont de la Halle we watched several species of birds in the water, one doing the same dive and return to its nest and others diving and disappearing into the visible growth a few metres below then appearing elsewhere, the swans and large fish also visible in the clear water as they also dived vertically into the growth disturbing the sandy bottom. We walked through Les Jardins de L’Europe with views across the lake with its water fountains, people in paddle boats and many people enjoying the gardens. Then walked across the Pont des Amours and along the tree lined Canal du Vasse, past Notre Dame and back across the Le Thiou River passing Palais De L’ile. We sat in the garden at the hostel having pizza and wine with Luke and Kim, who are also driving France and coincidentally live In Hurstbridge which is not that far from us in Melbourne. We shared our travel stories, the driving experiences, the roundabouts etc, and also coincidentally both of them work in graphic design and Luke works for DT Digital, which was started by David Trewern who I happened to employ whilst he was at university in the 90s.
Annecy on Bastille Day A sleep in after a late night, it was both Sunday and Bastille Day (public holiday). Connie stayed in and I walked into Annecy centre to visit the market and have another look around. The market was uncomfortably busy, it was wall to wall people and moving at a snail’s place. I left the market area and walked everywhere I could to view the canals, bridges and buildings. I entered Notre Dame whilst a service was being held, another magnificent church. I then bought some gourmet sausages, octopus salad and cheese stuffed peppers that we later enjoyed in the hostel garden. We rested in the afternoon and went into town in the evening for the Bastille Day celebrations and fireworks. The gardens all around the lake were crowded with people. There were bands playing and a lot of other entertainment. We sat on one of the boat piers. It was an excellent venue for fireworks with many great vantage points to view the display on the lake. It was a typical display finishing with a wonderful finale and being so close made it spectacular. A special night near the end of our month in France.
Chamonix – Mont Blanc – Aiguille Du Midi
Left at 7.30am to get to Chamonix Mont–Blanc early and avoid the queues. As we got closer to Chamonix valley the scenery of tall mountains became quite dramatic either side of us with lush green valleys dotted with houses. Arrived around 9am yet there was already a long queue for the cable car. Three months of travel and we had to pack warm clothes for this one day. We could see a number of people gracefully hang gliding on the the opposite side of the valley. We took the cable car to Aiguille Du Midi which goes up in two sections, quite fast, and the first almost vertically. At the top the views are breathtaking, literally, as the air is quite thin, it was hard to breathe. Aiguille Du Midi is at 3842 metres with Mont Blanc just in front of us. We walked to a number of platforms for different views and also took the elevator to the central tower for the near 360 degree views. There were also quite a number of people hiking and rock climbing and some taking the next cable car across to Italy. Managed to stand by the front window in the crowded cable car both ways and was quite something, especially the vertical drop going down. We took a slow, more scenic route back that I had planned which took us through the mountains via Saint Gervais–les–Bains and Ugine. It was very slow at the beginning, narrow with extreme winding roads but with amazing views down the valley and across to the mountain tops. The next section of the drive was through stunning alpine mountain valleys, still winding but not as severe, so green with alpine chalets everywhere. The drive changed again, still winding but by a rocky river/ stream with steep mountains either side of us. I had continually pulled over allowing cars to overtake so I could drive slower and enjoy the scenery. We eventually reached Lake Annecy at the southern end and drove right by it for some time, we stopped where we could and were amazed at the rich blue colour of the water. The road then took us away from the water until we neared Annecy, at one section the waterside was covered with people, the nearby carpark full and the road leading back to town a continuous line of traffic at a standstill for kilometres. We rested for a few hours, I walked to the nearby supermarket that was very busy being Saturday night and closed on Sunday. Hostels are wonderful for the people you meet, travel tips and stories – met guy from Brunswick who’s cycling Europe, then met girls from Mt Waverley. Connie cooked pasta that we ate in the pleasant garden.
To Lyon Connie cooked sausages and eggs in the morning as we prepared for our last day driving to Lyon. A goodbye to “Cliff”, the Aussie cyclist as he set off for his next destination with his 14kg backpack. We took the motorway for part of the way – drove through the long mountains tunnels then detoured to Tour du Pin to drive the remainder on some quieter and hopefully more scenic roads. Tour du Pin was dead quiet, we forgot it was Monday and neary everything was closed but we did manage to get a baguette for our picnic lunch. We drove on and stopped at a park in the next tiny town. The drive wasn’t that exciting, nor the picnic area we stopped at. We drove on and it continued to be ordinary until about 5km from the airport our GPS took us up a dirt road, we were driving between fields of corn and wheat, the road was rough and we were driving through large puddles of water. Back on a sealed road we were just near the airport. I dropped off Connie with our luggage at the airport hotel and drove the car to the drop off point which I thought was at the airport but found myself driving away about 5km back past all the corn fields. When I eventually found the drop off point which was in an industrial area I noticed our relatively clean car was now covered in mud including the rear window. We’d driven 3500km in 21 days. Checked into the Lyon airport hotel ready for our flight the following morning. I went out to have a look at the striking building at the airport that looks like two wings to find out it’s actually the train station next to the airport. A repack of our bags and no more “picnic pantry” as we prepare for the next leg of our trip. Endless planning, a lot of effort, some stressful driving but a wonderful memorable adventure driving France before we continue on to Barcelona.