Europe GREECE ◆ FRANCE ◆ SPAIN ◆ ITALY ◆ CROATIA
Europe May 25 – July 28, 2013
Athens Kalambaka Santorini Paris Barcelona Cruising Venice
GREECE
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FRANCE
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◆ Adonis Hotel ◆ Hotel Rfeas ◆ Hotel Keti ◆ Rue de Levis ◆ Itaca Hostel ◆ Carnival Sunshine ◆ Ca’della Corte
SPAIN
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ITALY
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CROATIA
Our journey took 32 hours to get from our house to our hotel in Athens after a 5 hour stopover in Dubai. We took the X95 bus from the airport to Syntagma Square and then a short walk to the Adonis Hotel. After a shower we took our first walk around the Plaka, the oldest area of Athens with narrow pedestrianised streets. We found ourselves in a street beside the almost 90 degrees cliff face of the Acropolis, passing families in their small courtyards dining or drinking, we walked the narrowest of laneways to find another lane covered in colourful graffiti similar to the Melbourne laneways. Our short walk was getting longer as the streets so interesting. We then came to a steep street that’s entire width was taken up with steps with residences all converted to cafes and tavernas, it was crowded and noisy, busy with people drinking and dining and where there was no room for tables or chairs they sat on cushions on the steps. We walked to the bottom and decided to also stop for a beer but enjoyed the atmosphere ended up having dinner here. It seemed that nearly everyone that passed by stopped to take photos of this picturesque area. Most of those here appeared to be locals, unlike a lot of the areas of the Plaka that had many tourists. So easy to get lost in this area of winding streets and hard to navigate even with maps but at the same time a delight to explore. We probably stayed out longer than we should have after such a long trip. We had moussaka and roast lamb.
Athens – Arrival
Athens – Connie’s Birthday
Breakfast served on the top floor balcony with a view to the nearby Parthenon at the Acropolis. The birds had also come for breakfast and almost in our plates for a feed. We walked through Syntagma Square and across past the parliament buildings where the guards were doing their slow dance march in costume. Going to Lycabettus Hill stopped for cold iced coffees which appear to be very popular here and enjoyed some people watching. Continued on in the general direction but ended up walking too far but it was enjoyable in the residential apartment block area and were surprised to find that all the streets here are lined both sides with orange trees – we took several for later. Eventually got to the funicular for the steep climb to the top – extensive views across Athens and out to the sea. Walked back and along the pedestrianised popular Ermou Street lined with fashion shops. At it’s end we entered Monastiraki and its many streets of market stalls. Bought bags of strawberries and cherries – so delicious they didn’t last until we got back. Connie found a bead/bling shop “To Xantradiko” and she was in heaven finding and buying some unique types she hadn’t seen before. It was a colourful store with some weird decorations including a plane, american indians, skulls, dinosaurs and a red telephone box. Walked back after a long day on our feet. Went back to the stepped street for dinner, this time at another taverna, every space is used here and my chair was very close to the edge, others were dining on the smallest of balconies. We had a Greek salad and lamb souvlakis and the local beer Mix. We enjoyed the atmosphere here and again appeared to be mainly locals and mainly in the younger crowd and in groups of girls and guys. After dinner we had some ouzo at the hotel’s rooftop balcony, with views of the floodlit Parthenon.
Athens – The Acropolis
We set off early to visit the Acropolis before the hotter part of the day and the hoards from the cruise ships. We detoured along the way to walk through the beautiful area of Anfiotika. It cost us a bit of time and some extra leg work up and down the hills but it was well worth it. At one house there were a lot of cats all waiting for their feed and they weren’t perturbed with our passing. We also passed the Tower of The Winds and more quaint old churches. There were already a lot of people as we arrived at the entrance to the Acropolis but nothing like the masses that were entering as we left a few hours later. We followed an audio guide I had downloaded from Rick Steves which was something I think I’ll do a lot more of when possible. The Parthenon must have looked splendid in its heyday and the Acropolis an amazing sight in its high location. It was a lot easier walk going down and the shade was welcome as we stopped to rest. Our next stop was the Acropolis Museum which is relatively new and a must see museum. The building design is amazing and built with a lot of glass. The large entry area outside has glass walkways looking down into the excavations showing the ancient ground structures. The museum houses a lot of the original artefacts from the Acropolis and an informative video. It is quite an experience when you can see and read about the artefacts and can then look through the glass walls of the museum and look at the Acropolis right next to it. We rested in the afternoon and went for dinner at Scholarhio, yet another delightful non pretentious restaurant in the Plaka. We sat by the road and chose a meal package where you are physically presented with numerous dishes and select five – we had calamari, meal balls, pork, fish and stuffed pepper and tomato. It was more than enough and we couldn’t get through it all and then came dessert. We ambled back to our hotel is this delightful area.
Delphi
Waiting for our tour bus watching policewoman directing traffic, white gloves and lots of hand motion. Stopped at the ruins at Delphi which are not as interesting as the many others weve been to however its location is stunning, a backdrop of sheer mountain cliffs and high up overlooking a valley far below. Most of the ruins were a reasonable distance walk but I continued on to the stadium, a long steep climb, so tiring in the heat and time constraints – the stadium was not worth the long walk up. Then had a long drive from Delphi facing the Ionian Sea through some spectacular mountain scenery toto Thermopyles facing the Agean Sea and a short stop at the site of the famous battle of the 300 trojans. A four drive on to Kalambaka to the Hotel Rfeas. Went for a walk around town and closer to the sheer clifface of the pinnaced mountains. Enjoyed seeing the children and families walking, playing and dining outdoors. Buffet dinner at the hotel.
Meteora
Short stop at an icon shop, a short explanation on the different types of icons that are made and the step by step process. Visited the first monastery, St Stephens with the final entry across a short bridge to the pinnacle it was built on. We had lengthy information given by our guide Cassandra about the monastery and its many icons. Next stopped a viewpoint across the valley to some of the other monasteries and pinnacled mountains before continuing to St Barbara’s, stopping at some vantage points, first a climb up some rocks for more amazing views before walking down a pleasant path. Lunch was at Meteora Restaurant, a wonderful meal of lamb, potatoes, peas, eggplant, peppers – just like mum used to make. Arrived back around 7 pm, freshened up then walked through the Plaka, Tower of the winds, lots of people dining outdoors then at Monastriki we finally had our souvlakis from a specialty shop, couldn’t understand what they were telling us but we ended up with what we wanted. Walked about the busy area with lots of outdoor diners, it was an amazingly beautiful setting with a backdrop of the Agora, the Acropolis and other monuments floodlit in the background. We sat in Monastriki square on the floodlit glass encased structures that look through to the ground below showing the ancient ruins. We ambled back to our hotel through the Plaka streets we have so much enjoyed.
Santorini – Arrival
Caught the X95 bus at 7.30am for our 10am flight to Santorini which only took 30 minutes. Rough landing, the wings not settled and moving wildly as it was extremely windy. We then took the local bus to Fira central, we hauled our bags a short way uphill to the main street where we checked the iPad map for directions and then walked uphill, it was tough, the walkway was all course cobblestones and difficult to negotiate, especially uphill in the heat, I don’t think the luggage wheels would survive too much of this. After a while I checked the map and we still had a long way to go but I thought I’d ask a shopkeeper just to make sure we were heading the right way, she rang our hotel – we had made this arduous walk in vain as the hotel was actually close to where we got off the bus – we had to go all the way back – the location pinned on Google maps I was following was wrong. There were many steps down to the hotel in an amazing location facing the caldera – an amazing sight. We rested before making the climb and heading off for a walk but were shortly tempted by a souvlaki shop where we sat, had our feed and a Mix (beer). We walked the main street uphill away from Fira and then back toward the caldera and along the more scenic pathways to the hotel before stocking up on some essentials from the grocery store. Relaxed in a hot bath after our long walk then sat on the balcony admiring the views, the boats and the donkeys making their way along the long switchback pathway. It was very windy, a clear blue sky and the most beautiful sunset.
Santorini – Oia
A lazy morning sitting on the balcony just enjoying the surrounds, its a bonus having a fridge and so handy having a portable electric pot with us to boil some eggs for brekky and have a cup of tea, and especially that we don’t need to walk the many steps for breakfast. We took the local bus to Oia which took 30 minutes with views on both sides along the way. Once at Oia there were large Russian tour groups which made it unpleasant in the narrow walkways and no sooner did one group pass that another followed and then yet another group coming at us in the opposite direction and on and on it went. It was so much more pleasant when they all finally left. Oia is the more stunning area on the island, and one area in particular which is more compact and more colourful and I think would look amazing lit up at night. Bought some beer and sat on high ground resting and just admiring the views. We needed to look everywhere as there’s lots of interesting items all around, almost everything warranted a photo. We both liked one particular art shop “Replika” – We’d love to have many of their pieces on display at home. After a rest in the afternoon I headed off for another walk around a different part of Fira and then another long relax on the balcony, from tea to beer to wine, it had clouded over with the sun streaming through along the horizon, so pleasant, so glad we stayed here with views and balcony.
Santorini – Fira
Early rise to sit on the balcony for the sunrise and watch the cruise ships arrive as a fleet of tenders make their way from Volcano Island. Mid morning we walked the lower path stopping at the donkey station and many more times enjoying the views and sights. We walked on just past Firostefani before starting the walk back, stopped at the Catholic church and stood outside the door as a service was in progress, an interpreter was following the priest in English probably due to packed tiny church with tourists. As we got closer to Fira it was becoming uncomfortably crowded with all the people from the ships. Went to Stamia Taverna for lunch, just a street back from the busy area that most of the cruise ship crowd had flooded. A pleasant setting outside under the shade of a vine covered pergola. We had lamb, stuffed peppers, eggplant shoe, mixed vegetables and rice. After a short rest at the hotel I decided to do the walk down the zig zag of steps to the old port and back up again. The cobblestoned pathway was covered in donkey poo, it was a long walk and by the time I reached the bottom my legs were wobbly. By now many people were down now queuing up to return to their ships, one person had reported to a cruise attendant that a passenger had an accident and was in hospital, he phoned the ship to have her luggage taken off as she wouldn’t be returning and also to arrange photos of the accident scene. After a short rest, I started the walk back up, a bit of a challenge, it was hot and I had to stop several times for a rest and some photos. Fun seeing the reactions of those on the donkeys, the screams, laughter and some attentive faces. Watched the sunset as the cruise ships depart and disappear into the horizon, then the views of the town lit against the cliff face. Went out for a night walk, had some gyros and chicken pita bread, then stopped at a stall, set up by several girls, mostly from Athens who had only been here 20 days. They had made all of the stands, seats and tables for their workshop, they are doing nightly craft demonstrations and tonight we watched soapmaking.
Santorini – Last Day
Up very early and out on the balcony, the red sky on the horizon blending to blue at sunrise, seagulls gliding gracefully about, ducks flew by and at one point small birds swooped over our room, past my head and in a flash, sounding like the whirring sound on jets. We checked out of the hotel at noon leaving our bags at reception. We had a look inside the church at the top of our stairway then took the bus to Oia. We walked a back street and it led us to another area that was visually stunning, houses, church, restaurants, hotels. We paused, admired and awestruck by the sights. It was hot and we were to be out all day as our flight wasn’t until 8.30pm. We stopped at a small cafe “Vitrin’, the view was breathtaking, over white rooftop with three bell towers over the blue sea with an island as a backdrop - we sat there for about an hour. The return walk was even more spectacular than our previous visit with clear blue skies and very few people which was a delight. We returned to Fira, bought salad, beer and snacks to have on the upper viewpoint by the church where we found a Bollywood movie “Bang Bang” being filmed. There was a support crew which seemed to be around 40 or so, many of whom seemed to be security, moving the onlookers back and being forceful so that no one took any photos. I took a few shots then they approached me to delete them, I refused then another person came to which I told him it was public domain – he was insistent I delete them but eventually gave up. We sat, ate and drank enjoying our last views of the caldera before our 45 minute flight to Athens and a 3 hour wait for out Air Malta flight.
Paris – Arrival
We rolled our suitcases downhill along the deserted road at 5.30am to catch the airport bus for our 8.15am flight to Paris. We could already feel the heat starting to set in for yet another stinking hot day even though it was so early. Arrived at Orly airport around 11am after 2 hour 20 min flight and caught the bus to Etoile/Arc de Triumphe. The bus ride was a great way to get into central Paris and giving a good early orientation. We got off right at the Arc de Tiumphe, got our bearings and started our walk to the apartment continually checking to make sure we were heading in the right direction. Everywhere we turned it was a picture of beautiful buildings and masses of people everywhere and diners on the streets. Wide walkways allowed plenty of room for diners and pedestrians, even us with our suitcases. The walk was easy in that it was flat but it was a long way and we probably should have caught a taxi but it was just so pleasant. At Park Monceau a group of very young school children – a delight just hearing them chatter. The walk also proved a good initial orientation to our immediate area which I think we would enjoy for the week even if we didn’t go out and see any of the major attractions Paris is famous for. We arrived around 1pm and our greeter at the apartment was from Melbourne. The apartment in Rue de Levis was a little bigger than we expected and not up as many stairs. An enjoyable aspect of being here is all of the activity outside. The street having a food market every day and immerses you into the daily lives of the local community. From our little window balcony diagonally opposite an old lady sits in her balcony also watching the activity in the street. Using the apartment shopping trolley we went to the nearby Monoprix supermarket. The variety of produce was extensive and enticing – had to control ourselves and not buy too much as we could have easily bought more than we could have possibly eaten. Dinner from the variety of cheeses, meats and savouries and had the bottle of red wine (not good) that was left as a welcome gift. It was still bright outside even after 9.30pm but we had an early night after our long day.
Paris – Eiffel Tower, Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise
With so much noise and activity in our street by day it was dead quiet at night and very welcome. It had rained early morning but cleared quickly. We set off late morning, a 5 minute walk through the vibrant market to the Villiers Metro station and purchased a carnet (10 pack of tickets). A busker on board next to us, playing a wind instrument with recorded music, after his repetoire he fronts everyone for a donation. We got off near the Eiffel Tower and walked through the Champ de Mars, then along Rue Cler that Rick Steves has made so popular – it was as expected but a let down when compared to the street where our apartment is. A woman passed us with her poodle in her shoulder bag. We bought a baguette and fruit and walked back to the Champ de Mars where we sat for lunch in the gardens by a monument, school children playing and soaked from wetting each other, hanging their shirts all over the monument to dry until security came by. We enjoyed watching the passersby, local workers stopping by for their lunch – in front of us, a small carousel and the Eiffel Tower as the backdrop. Caught the 69 bus that covered a scenic route across Paris to the Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise – a beautiful and evocative walk with little cobblestone walkways, terraced slopes and magnificent old trees – passed the graves of Chopin, Colette, Moliere, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde and Edith Piaf. After reaching Villiers we found ourselves in pouring rain for the short walk back to the apartment. Connie cooked chicken with mixed vegies. Still pouring and windy yet after an hour it all stopped, the sky cleared and I decided to go out. I thought I’d walk to the other end of our street and do a loop back but I got lost several times but what a place to get lost in, every street is a picture and has something special about it. I decided to walk to Sacre Coeur in Montmatre but after awhile found myself back near where I started. Eventually reached Pigalle, the Moulin Rouge district with all its sex shops. It was abuzz with people and many tour groups. I walked the 225 steps up to the Sacre Coeur for the night time views, it was after 10pm and it was still light. The Eiffel Tower was lit up, sparkling and shimmering like a massive Christmas tree and then the Sacre Couer was also floodlit.
Paris – Historic Walk, Parc de Monceau
At last I could take a deep breath and fill my lungs without fear of coughing. Planned to take the canal tour today but it was overcast and drizzling so we opted to visit the Louve but it had cleared so we decided to do walk the Ile de la Cite and surrounds. We reached the Notre Dame and took our place in the queue – I was surprised about the entry fee as I thought it was free – we progressed about half way in 20 minutes but then it didn’t move and inch for about half an hour, then it started raining, luckily we had umbrellas – it was still another half hour before we got in and despite the umbrellas we got wet. Once in we proceeded up a narrow spiral staircase – I didn’t realise we had got in the queue to enter the towers and after all this waiting we kept going – it was a long long way up, narrow and hundreds of steps – no going back. We eventually got out to a viewing area but it was uncomfortable with the wind and the rain – the view was wonderful and in good weather would have been amazing. We walked across to the second tower and then we continued up another narrow spiral staircase – we still had a long way to get to the top where the views were even better. We were up with all the gargoyles that were spewing out all of the rainwater (as they are meant to do). It was a relief to actually start going down but it was a long long way, and by the time I got down my legs were like jelly. As it turned out this was the only hour it rained for the whole day. Once at the bottom we were at the entrance to the cathedral that we intended to enter in the first place – and for free. A service was being held as we entered but concluded after a short time. Inside was remarkable, not as ornate as many other churches but spectacula. We stopped for some lunch before continuing our walk using Rick Steves audio guide. Next stop the Deportation Memorial where there are 200,000 crystals in memory of those who were in the camps taken by the Nazis. Next over the bridge totally covered in padlocks, then walked in the Latin Quarter passing St Severn with all its gargoyles, the Shakespeare and Company Bookshop and around Place St Michel. Connie couldn’t keep walking and took the metro back. I continued on, wanting to visit Saint Chapelle but the queue was long so I kept walking – along the Seine, across another bridge with both sides totally covered with padlocks, then through the Jardin des Tulleries to the Louvre, then back toward the Place de la Concorde and along the Avenue des Champs Elysees. I should have taken the Metro back but it so beautiful everywhere I kept walking and made it to Parc Monceau. By now the skies were blue – people lazing on the grass, sitting on benches, walking, jogging, children on the carousel. Such a beautiful park. Got back around 7pm – feet throbbing.
Versailles
We decided to go to Versailles after procrastinating and is was already nearing 10am. Wasn’t sure about the exact route – on one platform there was a Chinese couple and a Spanish couple with us trying to work out if were heading the right way – we eventually made it using two metro trains, then an RER train. A packed double decker train with everyone getting off at the last stop for Versailles. It was overcast and the coolest day so far. 15 minute walk to the palace and the queues building – Connie took her place in the entry queue and I went to the ticket queue which probably gained us half an hour of time. The walk through the palaces was orderly and helpful with the aide of the audio guides. As expected it was crowded inside. Each room was extravagent and decorated with total opulence. The interior took around one and a half hours. We had lunch, baguette and cappuchinos, then spent another two hours walking through the gardens, then along the grand canal to Marie Anoinette’s Estate. Connie cooked a pork roast for dinner.
Paris – Fete de la Musique
On the 21st of June every year, Paris celebrate music with the Fete de la Musique with singers, musicians and groups, professional and amateur and of all ages performing on street corners and cafes around Paris. Their Fete de la Musique website lists 5560 performances on the night with no restrictions on the noise through to 5 am. From our window we could see lots of people dressed up and going out on this Friday night. We walked to our nearest corner, about 80 metres away and a jazz/blues band were playing in the corner cafe and just across the road, a youngish band were playing outside another cafe. We then walked back to the Metro station, bands playing in each cafe – we stopped to listen to one, all the seats on the pavement that normally face the street were facing sideways to the band playing. The cafe full and lots of us standing nearby listening. Metro to Blanche next to the Moulin Rouge and then the uphill climb along Rue Lepic. It was crowded, a great atmosphere and lots of music. We stopped at a square, set up with stage and sound booth, one couple had their own small table with wine in bucket, nibblies and pizza. A group of about 12 with colourful hats were singing some rousing French songs. Cute baby in dad’s chest carrier kept smiling and pointing at Connie. After the group finished their routine we managed to get to sit on a bench, Next a band came on with an entertaining female drummer that reminded us of Bec in her playing days. Beer and a Coke and continued walking up the hill as Rue Lepic bends its way around, people walking in both directions. Stopped for a rest sitting on a sill, across the street through their open windows we could see a group of people having their own private music party, dancing in line, hips swaying, one came to the window and waved at us but we didn’t understand what he was saying but he was smiling and having a great time. More uphill walking to a corner restaurant with windmill and neon archway entrance that kept changing colour. Every street we looked down had people everywhere. A small group of 5 playing some types of drums, then a solo player of an electrified clarinet type instrument. As we approached the square near Sacre Coeur along its picturesque winding streets there were rivers of people.
We stopped for a view of the Eiffel Tower lit up with its beacon shining and doing its 360 degree rotation. There were masses of a mainly young crowd in front of the Sacre Couer and in the nearby park. Lots of drinking from bottles, the rubbish bins everywhere overflowed and there was lots of broken glass. Then caught the funicular railway down the steep slope – once off we walked over to where we could see masses of people in one area, we couldn’t see them at first but there was a troupe of about 35 playing drums (Batucada Timbao), at first we were about 10 deep but eventually got closer. They were fantastic and the highlight of the night as they danced and moved in unison to great rhythms. We stayed for the entire routine and would have stayed for more. Walked back to the base of Sacre Coeur for the great floodlit view of it high above. Then continued our slow walk back along another street. Again we stopped by a band playing on a corner with yet another large crowd surrounding them. We managed to get seats at the cafe next to them and Connie had a pint of beer and a good rest. Groups walking along the streets dancing and some singing. On our way home but found ourselves stopping yet again in a street full of people dancing to recorded music. Any cars that approached had to cut a way through and the people who danced about the cars cheering and waving them on. One car had someone sit on its rear as it moved through. A parked car was used as a table top for their drinks. Heading home we stopped yet again at the next corner, three guitarists by a cafe, the girl also singing and after a few songs she got up dancing and singing. Connie joined in with her singing “Ride Sally Ride”. We finally made it to Pigalle Metro station, a girl lay in a nearby water fountain, lots more people in all directions. The train was choked with people on this busy night and a lot of the young crowd singing/ chanting away very loudly. Back at Monceau, it was far more quiet than at Montmarte. We got back around 2am, Connie’s knees totally shot but we had one of the best nights ever on this special night in Paris.
Paris – Galaries Layfayette, Rue de Levis
It was cold, a day for jackets so we decided to visit the upmarket Galaries Layfayette department store. After a good sleep-in after our late night, we took the Metro to Opera, then a short walk passing the imposing National Academy of Music. The centre of the Galaries Layfayette was stunning with its adorned galleries and stained glass dome. On one of the upper levels you could see all of the details in the dome’s construction, we then went to the rooftop for the views over Paris with its cloudy sky. Many of the upmarket stores had security at their entrances only allowing so many people in at a time. One store had a long queue who would have had a long wait just to get in. And as I write this entry, the window wide open, I can hear the people chatting as they walk along Rue de Levis – and an accordion playing, probably from the corner cafe.
Paris – Canal St Martin, St Germain
Metro to Tulleries and walked across the gardens and over the pedestrian bridge to board le Canotier for our cruise along the Seine and the Canal St Martin at 9.30am. We cruised along the Seine then turned into the first lock as soon as we entered the canal. The rear lock doors closing, the lock filling with water and the front doors opening with us now 3 metres higher. Next we entered the dark 2 km tunnel that runs under the Bastille. Occasionally light pierced through circular vaults in the ceiling. We entered many locks along the scenic chestnut tree lined canal, through swing bridges and under many beautiful arched pedestrian bridges and finishing after nearly 3 hours at the Parc de la Villette. We had pizza for lunch then caught the metro to St Germain – visited the cathedral then followed an audio guide walk through the streets. We stopped in a square which was the site of the original theatre that Moliere first performed, some seats made in the image of open books, opposite us we met a lady with her “first child” that she’d had for just one day – a small dog in her doggy carry bag. Caught the Metro back, and on exiting followed a person hauling his suitcase, two bags and had two cats on his shoulder.
Paris – The Louvre
Went to The Louvre and knew it would be daunting so we tried to concentrate on the areas of most interest. We started in the building with the sculptures, a woman dressed and painted in white was with a group of children and being quite animated. Next the Decorative Arts, the opulent Napoleon III Apartments followed by the Eastern Antiquities – I think we would have been satisfied from just visiting these sections. Fortunately we had a big breakfast today as there was a long wait just to get into the cafe. Next was the Medieval Louvre, some of the Greek Antiquities and the Egyptian Antiquities which included the Code of Hammurabi and the colossal statue of Ramesses II. Although we decided to leave we kept being drawn in by the wonderful sights and eventually found ourselves in the area of Paintings housed in more amazing rooms with ornate ceilings and walls. We passed many of the more famous sights like the Winged Victory of Samothrace and some amazing paintings including The Consecration of the Emperor Napoleon 1, The Wedding Feast and Mona Lisa. Many of the paintings were much larger than I expected and quite impressive. We sat outside by the pool and glass pyramid for a short rest after some six and a half hours on our feet before getting the Metro back to our apartment. Connie made a wonderful French Onion Soup for dinner. I ventured out at 9pm to ile St Louis as I had read that there was to be a fireworks celebration but it didn’t eventuate. The skies were finally complete clear of clouds which made the night ever cooler. I then went to Trocadero for a close up view of the Eiffel Tower lit up. It was around 11pm and there it was crowded with people.
Barcelona
Flew easyJet to Barcelona arriving 10.50am then took the Aerobus toCatalunya Square and walked to the Itaca where we waited for Bec to arrive. We went nearby for lunch, Connie and I had a pasta entree followed by rabbit and chicken including drinks and dessert for only 10 euro – a wonderful meal. Stocked up on drinks from the nearby supermarket. We then checked into our apartment which was only a few minutes walk away. We rested then went out, walking past the cathedral and then down La Ramblas, visiting the colourful market. Reaching the waterfront, Connie and Bec returned as they couldn’t walk too much and I continued on to the beach and along the promenade then along the zoo to the gardens, a jazz band playing by the Gaudi Cascade, then walked through the gardens and along walkway to the Arc de Triomf where two groups were practising their aerobic dance routines. Walking back to the apartment passed Palau de la Musica Catalana lit up and other beautiful buildings. Connie and Bec had stopped at a bar along the Ramblas called Micky’s. Bec had tapas and champagne sangria, Connie had red wine sangria.
Barcelona – Sagrada Familia
We set off early to be at Sagrada Familia for its opening time and avoid the long queue and wait time, Bec went shopping. Although early the queue snaked around the block and attendants told us we had a one and a half hour wait just to get in. I tried buying online tickets so we could get straight in but after half an hour of trying it kept freezing upon payment so we had to wait. It was well worth the wait and awe-inspiring. The museum was interesting with a video presentation, an area where models are being created for additional areas to be built and lots of displays showing and explaining the many features of this amazing construction. The queue to get in was just as long when we left and after a rest back at our room we went to Pirineus Bar as I so much enjoyed the rabbit there a few days ago. Connie had paella and calamari, Bec had salad and calamari and again, I had salad and the most delicious rabbit with garlic and butter as well as fried zucchini – so delicious that I would gladly go back and have this again. Walked down the main road a girl came zipping past us in the bus/ taxi lane on roller blades. We caught the metro to the beach for an hour or two before returning for drinks and a rest. Bec and I went out for a walk in the evening, up de l’Angel then just wandered through El Raval and passed through the beautiful grounds of the Hospital de la Santa Creu. We stopped at an antique market that had been set up in front of the cathedral then heard a band start playing. A little old lady making collections for the band putting a little sticker on our shirt after giving a donation. It was a Sardana dance starting that is normally performed on weekends. Groups of locals in circles, symbolically place their belongings in the middle of the circle, hold hands “Zorba” style and perform their traditional Catalunyan dance. Connie joined us to enjoy this wonderful local experience.
Barcelona – Last Day
After another hot restless night (had a couple arguing loudly in the middle of the night just below our window – lots of pointing, arm waving, shouting, cursing and other hand gestures) couldn’t believe our bad luck as at 8.30 they were digging up the street, jackhammers going incessantly, right under our window. I visited the cathedral while Connie wandered the antique market, Bec went clothes shopping, then we met up, walked browsing shops. We checked out at noon and had a long lunch at the tapas bar opposite Itaca, a delightful way to finish our time together, Bec left for her bus to the airport and we taxid to the boat terminal. A slick check-in process had us on board quickly and were told we had a buffet lunch awaiting us (having just gorged on lots of tapas). There was already lots of activity on board – we sat in for a welcome aboard session then walked as much of the boat as possible to get as familiar as we could. The boat has only just been completely refurbished and it was quite evident, everything so new. A long security drill just as we left a hot and hazy Barcelona. We went to dinner at 6pm, prawns, a perfectly cooked thick steak and creme brulee and Connie prawns, tender steak and cheeses. Next to the main lounge for short segments of the entertainers that will be on during the cruise, singlers/dancers, comedians and audience participated game events. Then sat listening to one of the bands a short time before heading to the pool area where we watched Under The Tuscan Sun on the huge outdoor screen above the pool and the moon shining in the sky. We had tea and slice of pizza before heading off to bed.
Marseille
The ship docked in Marseille at 7am. We had breakfast around 8.30, Connie stayed on board relaxing by the pool and reading. I took the shuttle into town which took about 20 minutes and cost 14 euro and still needed about 20 minutes walk to get into the main area. There were three large cruise ships in so everywhere was very busy with long queues to get on the tourist train and harbour cruise boats. I could barely get into the tourist office and the queue waiting for assistance was ridiculously long. I walked past Fort Saint-Jean along one length of View Port and then along the other side of the port passing Fort Saint Nicolas to Jardin Du Pharo which offered excellent views looking back across to View Port and Fort Saint Jean. I continued on along the road by the sea to Porte De L’Orient, a picturesque small harbour. I tried to get the bus back but apparently they didn’t go back into town – I’d walked a long way and probably would have been good to have hired a bike. I walked all the way back with several of the main roads now blocked to traffic in preparation for the Gay Pride March. I passed all of the floats and many of those ready to march but unfortunately couldn’t stay as our boat was leaving at 4pm. I walked a part way into the old city and visited the Cathedral De La Major before returning. The pool area on board was busy with almost every sun lounge taken. Cooled off in the pool but couldn’t move far without bumping into someone then sat in one of the jacuzzis awhile. Connie had lobster for dinner and I had a rib eye fillet. Connie went to bed early and I went to the feature show “Epic Rock” in the Liquid Lounge. The eight performers put on a dazzling show singing and dancing to a number of classic rock songs with lighting, fire and smoke effects. The large brightly lit screen at the back of the stage displayed imagery that tied in with their choreography and was impressive. The show only went for half an hour but was non stop action and very entertaining. Back to our room to wake Connie and told her that she must get to the 10.30 repeat performance of this amazing show. I went back to our room and got Connie up and we both went to watch the late performance of “Epic Rock”. Then went on deck and had a beer, the almost full moon casting a reflection across the sea.
Livorno
Connie stayed on board to relax and read by the pool while I took the short shuttle bus ride to the town centre. I walked to the harbour area along Via Grande, stopping at a fish market then past the Old Fortress. A noticeable difference from the last month, lots of motorbikes – we’re now in Italy. Walked along Via Della Venezia in the Venezia district with its characteristic canals and beautifully coloured houses. It was Sunday and there were lots of families going on outings in their boats, and I’d see them appearing from whichever canal I would look at. The boy on the boat with his dog, others with their fishing gear preparing to go out on their boat. The priest was outside the church greeting people to his mass. The old man sitting on his lone chair in an empty street just watching the day go by. I walked on to Fortezza Nuova then back along a canal to return on the shuttle bus. It was such a pleasure to wander and enjoy the sights in Livorno without the large crowds. Back on the boat Connie was in a pool cabanas reading and enjoying the quiet as most people were touring. After dinner we walked around watching the kids using the waterpark as we departed Livorno, along the breakwaters some boats and many locals were picnicking and one section a small sand beach. I had pumpkin soup and assorted seafood, which wasn’t that good, Connie had duck and lambshank which she enjoyed. Connie went to bingo and I went to a few areas to listen to some live music. Connie won a $100 prize, then the main show, Richard Griffin, a magician. Next to the comedy show with Lance Montalto who was great. Back on deck, a full moon and the crew had many people dancing by the pool at their Caribbean Beach Party – Connie joined in as I went off, had some tasty pizza and listen to music elsewhere. At 11pm we went to another comedy show in which all three comedians improvised with audience participation. I was so tired and the last thing I wanted was to get called on stage – I did, as did quite a few others. Each one of us were to improvise as a celebrity, act it on stage in order for one of the other comedians to guess. I was Oprah.
Civitavecchia
The ship docked in Civitavecchia at 7am. After breakfast, Connie stayed on board relaxing by the pool and reading as she did yesterday. I took the free shuttle for the short trip to town. I picked up a town map and walked around the pedestrianised older area of town. At the market bought Connie some colourful glass earrings and neck pendants. Went back on board around 1pm and had lunch. Rested in the afternoon and had our usual dinner sitting at 6pm. Connie went to our room after dinner and I walked the decks as the boat departed and then watched the sunset. Then went to see Lance Montalto who again put on a hilarious comedy show. Got a few slices of their perfect pizza, tea and sat on a sun lounge watching “Eat Love Pray� on the big screen above the pool. It was still quite warm, a delightful setting with the boat lighting changing from blue to purple to red to green.
Isle of Capri
The ship docked in Naples at 7am and the terminal right at the town which is situated on the side of a hill so for a change we had great views from the boat. Up early and walked ashore and bought tickets for the catamaran to the Isle of Capri for the 8.05 departure. The sea dead calm and the ride took 50 minutes. On the island we took the Funicolare (funicular railway) to Capri Town and walked to the scenic lookout at the Augustus Gardens, then down the zig zag walkway. Then walked a number of the very narrow streets in the town having to move aside whenever any of the very small and narrow vehicles had to pass. We had a rest, a beer and an internet catchup in Piazza Umberto before taking the small 10 seater bus (with 25 people on board) up the narrow winding roads to Anacapri – at some points precariously close to the very steep edge of the cliff. At Anacapri we took the single seat chair lift for the 15 minute ride to the top of Mount Solaro, the highest point on the island. Chairlift, bus and funicular railway back to Marina Grande for the catamaran back to Naples. After dinner went on deck to watch us leave port with two other massive cruise ships leaving just prior to us, the Norweigan Epic and the Aida. There were magnificent views of Mount Vesuvius which had no cloud whatsovever and a clear view of its crater. Another lovely sunset with the other cruise ships visible in the distance and lots of seagulls hovering about the boat. At 8.30 we went to the see the eight performers of the Playlist group perform a colourful and very entertaining performance based on 70s music and costume. After the show we went to Serenity on deck 14, sat in the jacuzzi and then in a cabana enjoying a beer and another couple of slices of the wonderful pizza.
Messina
Docked in Messina at 8am. After breakfast we walked around the historic area of the town, first at the Church of Catalani, the statue of Don John of Austria, then walked into the Cathedral next to the bell tower, next we walked up the steep streets to the Sactuary of Montalto, then to the Church of Christ the King with magnificent views. Back downhill stopped at Mount of Pity, a historic “pawn shop” from the past, formerly attached to a church that was destroyed by earthquake. Next we walked through the victor Emmanuel Gallery, a beautiful arcade with colourful glass ceiling but all the shops deserted and walls full of graffiti. Walked past the Victor Emmanuel Theatre which also looked deserted and dilapidated. Returned to the cathedral at noon to watch the famous animations in the bell tower. Connie had a Messina beer and I had brioche with lemon granita. Late lunch on the boat and a rest then on deck to watch as the boat depart and ended up watching the trickle of latecomers get back, the last were 40 minutes after our scheduled departure. Then had to wait for other shipping movements and ended up leaving 90 minutes late. We both had duck a l’orange for dinner. Watched four of the Playlist performers sing at the Ocean Bar then by the pool Connie joined in the party where the crew had a few hundred people doing synchronised dance. We then had pizza, tea and Connie a beer.
Day at sea
We went straight on deck as soon as we got up to try and get a prime sun lounge but all of the best positions in the shade in view of the big screen already taken. There were lots of sun loungse available in the sun but we managed to get two behind the screen in the shade. We watched an ice carving demonstration and a “hairy chest� competition in which several guys paraded down the stairway, prancing and taking off their tops being judged by four women, the first rubbed their chest, second felt their muscles, third danced and fourth woman spanked him. We then had breakfast, I went to a talk on the next ports and embarkation, then Connie went to bingo, then burritos for lunch. It was a bit of a nothing day, no sights, just boring endless sea and no decent entertainment until the evening. Dressed up for a formal dinner, Connie had salad and spanikopita and I had escargot and salmon. Lugged a set of formal clothes around Europe for one night on the boat and then saw others in shorts and sandals, blah. Went to the early family friendly comedy show that was hilarious then went to poolside, dip in the jacuzzi watching Goonies. Lost my on-board keycard in the jacuzzi and while waiting in queue to report it, it was handed in.
Dubrovnik
I went on deck around 5.30am, we had been anchored just outside port for a few hours. A couple of the crew were folding towels into different animal characters and placing them on each sunlounge, monkeys hanging from the huts and two swans facing each other on a life raft in the main pool. Then watched as we cruised into Port Gruz, for our visit to Dubrovnik. We had an early breakfast at 7am as we wanted to do our touring early and avoid the extreme afternoon heat. We took the shuttle arriving around 8.45am, entered the old city through Pile Gate and headed straight up to walk along the walls, it was early and already hot. The views both inside the old city, across the walls and out to sea were all spectacular. The walk took us up and down many steps along the way as we completed the entire walk along the ramparts in about 100 minutes. The heat along the walk made worse by the reflection off the stone was as hot and oppressive as we expected, our faces were glowing and we were dripping with sweat at the end. Once down we refreshed at the large Onofrio’s circular fountain. We then sat for a rest, beer and toilet break. We visited St Saviours Church then walked down the wide marble main street, the Stradum. Visited the Serbian Orthodox Church, St Blaise Church, Orlando’s Column, then walked to the waterfront and the cathedral. Walked along several of the narrow streets before returning on the shuttle bus and had lunch. Rested then on deck to watch us leave for our last port departure. We both had oysters at dinner, then Connie had turkey and I had filet mignon. Watched the family friendly comedy show by Paul Lyons, a walk on deck then watched Playlist perform their latin show “Motor City”, then pizza and tea.
Venezia
On deck around 6am, the sea almost dead flat and a blazing sun on the horizon. We had breakfast around 8.30am and sat on sunlounges, Connie reading then watching the big screen, already hot. 10.30am we began the approach into Venice passing a long sandy beach dotted with people and boats. Entering the lagoon we could see the ongoing construction of the underwater dams being built to protect Venice and the other islands. I think most of the people on board were on the starboard side of the ship to watch as we neared Venice to what must be one of the most visually spectacular cruise port approaches anywhere. It took one and a half hours from when we approached the lagoon to docking – next to several other massive cruise ships. We had lunch before leaving, a 10 minute walk to the “People Mover” (the train that connects from the cruise terminal to Pizzale Roma, the central transport hub of Venice). From here, using my basic hand drawn map, took the short walk to Ca’della Corte, our accommodation for the following night and advised them of our early arrival. We were already sweating fro the heat, then walked and did some exploring, then stopped for a beer. Connie went back to the ship and I continued on exploring for another three hours. We had our final formal dinner, I had an excellent Mango cream soup and another perfectly cooked steak, Connie had American Navy Bean Soup and Rib Steak. All of the wait staff filled the stairways and sang a farewell song. We did our final pack and put our bags out, Connie went to bed to read and I went on deck, lay on a sun lounge, still very warm at 8.30pm, had tea and watched Sherlock Holmes.
Murano, Burano, Venezia
Breakfast on the ship then disembarked at 7am, walked to the People Mover only to find it opens after 8am on Sundays so we walked over the bridge to Ca’della Corte to drop off our luggage until we could check-in. 7.40am and the sweat just dripping off our faces as it was already hot. Caught a direct vaporetto (water bus) to Murano. Most of the shops were closed, probably because it was Sunday and also so early. Delightful walking around being so quiet except for the heat. We looked at a lot of the blown glass ornaments that Murano is famous for. Church bells ringing and more locals about that tourists. Then caught another vaporetto from Faro station for the long ride to Burano. The colourful houses stunning to see, such rich and contrasting colours in every single street we turned. It was still early in the day but deadly walking in the sun and we looked for shade all the time. More church bells, we stopped for a look in at a Catholic wedding ceremony, along with other tourists, some Asians were going crazy to see this and holding iPads high to get some photos. We stopped for a rest, lunch and a beer at a cafe then went back by vaporetto to our bed and breakfast to check-in, arriving around 1pm after a most enjoying but draining morning sightseeing. The air conditioned room was so welcome. After a good rest and waiting for the sun to die down a bit, ventured out alone around 6pm but still stifling I explored another area of Venice. We then went out again around 8.30pm catching a vaporetto all the way along the Grand Canal, fortunately not so busy now and I was lucky to have the seat at the very front. The lamps either side of the canal came on as the sun had finally set for the day. It was a long but memorable ride for our last night here. We got off at St Mark’s Square and wandered looking at the amazing buildings. Musicians playing to the many dining in the square. Lasagne for dinner around 10pm at a small restaurant nearby, walked to the Rialto Bridge and a Vaparetto to Toma, walked the narrow streets and several bridges back, and relief to get back to air conditioned room even near midnight.