Cacao Magazine - Issue Two

cacao ISSUE TWO

The Craft Chocolate Magazine

Welcome to

Issue Two Welcome to the second edition of Cacao Magazine. Our focus country this time around is Thailand, otherwise known as ‘The Land of Smiles’. During our travels from the South to the North of the country, we felt immensely inspired by the passion Thai people have for their culture and wanted to emulate that in this issue. Because no one word describes the craft chocolate community better than passionate. From the current flavour trends to ancient drinking chocolate traditions, we wanted to show how much fine chocolate is influenced by the people who make it. We were so pleased to be able to work with the very talented Chorkung to create the cover, an artist from Bangkok who managed to perfectly capture the essence of this issue.

We want to give a big thank you to our wonderful sponsors, Kad Kokoa. A brand who truly embodies everything we wanted this magazine to show; culture, quality, and Thai cacao. As well as the wonderful writers, illustrators, chocolate makers and patrons who made this issue one we’ll treasure as much as we will the memories we have made making it.

And lastly, we want you to know that this issue wouldn’t be possible without you. Dive in to learn how to pair chocolate with craft beer, identify flavours as colours, make Paul A. Young’s single-origin truffles and save heirloom cacao varieties. We have tried to create something that anybody can learn, enjoy and laugh with. Thank you for reading and for coming on this journey with us, we have exciting news around the corner, so we hope you’ll stick around.

Lukas T. Reinhardt & Ruby Willow Founders of Cacao Magazine

cacao

www.readcacao.com team@readcacao.com IG: @readcacao Founder & Design Lukas T. Reinhardt Founder & Editor Ruby Willow Assistant Editor Deborah Jane Slade Issue Two Autumn & Winter 2019 ISSN 2631-8873 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form without the written permission of Cacao Magazine.

Illustration Maria Sibylla Merian, 1705

Contributors This magazine wouldn’t be possible without the brilliant writers, illustrators and photographers who we so dearly rely on.

A massive thank you to our countributors: Chorkung Kung Lilla Toth-Tatai Eric Gilbert Max Gandy Hazel Lee Sharon Terenzi Megan Giller David Nilsen Sarit Henig Paul A. Young Reginald Swinney Anna Bazyl Antonie Fountain Sarah Chand

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Bean

12 – 17

Terroir in Chocolate: Why Does it Matter?

18 – 23

The Children Paying for Cheap Chocolate

24 – 29

Drinking Chocolate Around The World

30 – 39

Ecuador’s Fight to Preserve Heirloom Cacao

42

Feature Country: Thailand

42 – 48

Crafting Chocolate in the Land of Smiles

50 – 63

Discovering the Flavours of Thai Chocolate using Taste With Colour®

64 – 69

Meet the Maker: Kad Kokoa

70 – 71

Recipe: White Chocolate and Mango Cheesecake with a Ginger and Sea Salt Base

74 Bar

74 – 79

The Flavours Soaring and Sinking in 2019

80 – 84

The Life of a Professional Chocolate Taster

86 – 93

Craft Cousins: Beer & Chocolate

94

Guest: Paul A. Young

94 – 95

Recipe: Slightly Sea Salted Single Origin Truffles

96 – 99

Behind The Doors of a Chocolate Shop

100 – 109

Bean to Bonbon with Paul A. Young

Contents

Section

Bean From terroir in chocolate to the fight to preserve heirloom cacao varieties.

Photography Geovanny Penaloza

Terroir in Chocolate: Why Does it Matter?

What actually is terroir and how does it affect our chocolate?

Words by Lilla Toth-Tatai

Growing up on mass-market confectionary, the flavours we associate with chocolate are fairly simple. But as soon as we start tasting craft chocolates, made from carefully selected cacao beans and treated with care to unlock and enhance their original flavour profile, we can discover a true kaleidoscope of notes from nutty to floral, earthy to spicy.

Where are these flavours coming from? Research shows that some of the flavour potential is genetically coded in the cacao beans but another great influence on the final taste of the chocolate is what we call terroir [tair-wahr].

The French word literally means land, earth. In this specific case, it could be translated to ‘sense of a place’. It has predominantly been used by the wine industry to describe fla-

vour nuances of wines depending on their place of origin. This concept is now also used for various other food products such as coffee, tea, olive oil, cheese and now, chocolate.

altitude and the microorganisms found in the soil and throughout processing are also important factors.

Environmental Elements

Theobroma cacao, like other trees, takes its nutrients and main water supply from the soil it grows in. Cacao prefers acidic, fertile soil with a high percentage of organic matter. This can be provided by fallen leaves, cut weeds and compost made from empty cacao pods. This protects the soil against drying out and feeds it with the essential nutrients it requires. However, the soil’s structure, more precisely its water retention and drainage capability, is actually the

Terroir is more than a geographical specification, but a truly complex system of elements that have an influence on the flavour of cacao. To understand this, we need to first think about the role of the environment as that has several elements we have little to no control over. The first things people think of as affecting terroir are soil, climate, and geography.

However,

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Soil

elements, such as the amount of sunlight, general wind direction and wind speed, the average amount of rain and of course the distribution of rain within a year. However, although rainfall affects variations in the yield of cocoa trees, it won’t necessarily have a direct impact on flavour development.

Geography & Altitude

most crucial element. For example, the volcanic soil of the Sambirano Valley in Madagascar is quite porous and thus the water drainage and retention are ideal to ensure a constant water supply. The question is how does this impact the final flavour and whether it’s the volcanic soil that gives Madagascan cacao its renowned tart berry and citrus notes, or is it something else?

Climate Climate is arguably the least stable element within terroir.

In this category, we can differentiate between macro-climate (country, larger region) and micro-climate (small, restricted areas). Here we need to consider the main weather

Similar to coffee, cacao is sensitive to altitude and it’s nearly impossible to successfully grow cacao above 600m altitude (with a few exceptions), because of the considerable temperature drop.

The geographical relief will also influence rainfall, the amount of sunshine, and shade. A 2014 research study carried out in Sumatra found that pod size decreased and bean count per 100g increased at higher altitudes.

More importantly, cocoa butter content gets higher, the higher up we go. As cocoa butter is the main flavour carrier in chocolate, this could be an important factor to consider in the later stages of cacao processing and chocolate making.

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Flora & Fauna Plant growth is affected by the surrounding plants and animal wildlife, but there isn’t sufficient evidence to say they have a direct impact on flavour. Although we sometimes hear of cacao planted among banana trees carrying banana flavour notes and so on, this is yet to be confirmed. What does have an influence are Midges, the main pollinating insects of cacao. How far they may have traveled and the other kinds of cacao pollens they carry determines the future fruit’s genetic composition.

This in turn creates the base for a myriad of flavour compounds.

Microorganisms The role of microorganisms is as multifaceted as they are omnipresent. They can be found in the soil, on the hands of farmers and on their equipment during harvest, fermentation and drying, as well as within the air.

Microorganisms are particularly important during fermentation as various

types of bacteria and yeast are formed throughout the process that can alter the development of flavour precursors. A recent study on Nicaraguan fine cacao focuses on microbial diversity during fermentation. They found that floral notes were associated with the presence of a specific microbe in the later stages of fermentation, whereas intense citrus/fruity notes were related to high pulp and bean citrate concentrations. Over-fermented batches showed off-notes due to the presence of grass bacillus.

Human Elements The second dimension that can influence the ultimate flavour of a chocolate bar is the process of human interaction; where even the smallest tweak can bring about an incredibly different result. There is a long list of complex factors and

processes which alter the final taste of our chocolate, from the variety you choose, the harvest, the fermentation and drying to the differing local traditions.

Even the most unique and specialised cacao bean can become a mediocre end product if the post-harvesting processing is not carefully controlled, losing a multitude of the original flavours.

different coloured beans all with their own unique flavours. Plantation management, such as grafting of new plants, choosing lands to plant the young trees, pruning and controlling the average age of trees within a plantation will all have an effect on the quantity and quality of the beans produced.

Plantation management

One of the most crucial steps in cacao processing is fermentation. This happens naturally, but by manually controlling some of its features we can achieve different outcomes. Developing flavour precursors can later be enhanced even further by chocolate makers.

When it comes to cacao genetics, we are still only scratching the surface. From the traditional 3-types (criollo, trinitario, forastero) to the Motamayor 10 varieties, we now think there are even more distinct varieties and hybrids of cacao due to the interesting cross-pollination possibilities. A single cacao tree can produce fruits whose flowers were pollinated with different genetic strains of cacao, these pods will present individual characteristics. In some cases, even within one single cocoa pod, we can find a range of

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Fermentation

By manually tending to the beans, local microorganisms enter the fermenting mass and react with it. Turning and mixing the beans increases aeration and bacterial activity, and it also ensures a more balanced ferment throughout the lot. Changes in the length and method of fermentation can affect flavour in various ways. In general, underor over-fermented beans will have unpleasant off-fla-

vours. With a slightly slower fermentation or an extra turn of the beans, the same batch can bring out very different tasting notes.

As fermentation is considered to be a key player in flavour development, more and more makers have started to pay attention and even put specific fermentation protocols in place to achieve their desired profile. A very interesting, and relatively new, process of fermentation involves the farmers adding extra ingredients, such as various local fruits and spices, to the fermenting cacao beans. This method is called a Double Fermentation. The fruit acids ferment and impart their own flavour to the cacao beans.

Drying Once the beans are properly fermented, they need to be dried.

The drying method will largely depend on the climate of the area, as farmers need to ensure slow, even drying, and protect the beans from potential rainfall. Slow drying ensures that the chemical reactions which started during fermentation can be completed, otherwise, the beans may taste too acidic or bitter.

Drying too slowly however, has its own issues, such as the development of mould which causes off flavours. Off-flavours can also come from the surroundings, especially when beans are drying on the ground. Dirt, petrol, animals and people stepping onto the beans can all impact the final taste.

Terroir – another confusing label?

Now that we have seen how complex terroir can be, it is not surprising that there aren’t any clear rules for labelling it within the chocolate industry. French-speaking chocolate makers started to use ‘Grand Cru’ or ‘Cru de Terroir’ to mimic high quality wines, whereas English labels often say ‘Single Estate’, ‘Micro Lot’ or ‘Single Bean’.

Because chocolate hasn’t yet agreed on a clear definition, copying those found in other industries might work, but can present issues of misunderstandings due to the differences in the products in question. As an example, the inclination of the land

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is much more important in wine and coffee production than it is in cacao growing.

While with other specialty products such as specific wines and cheeses, labels such as AOC (protected designation of origin) are carefully monitored and clearly explained, we do not see this happening in the chocolate scene just yet. As with many other key concepts and definitions within the chocolate industry, terroir is not clearly defined and therefore can be interpreted in various ways. Also, industrial-sized chocolate companies have started to use ‘single ori-

gin’ appellations on their packaging, which highlights that this on its own does not guarantee a high quality product.

Although the genetics of a cacao strain do not account for the entire flavour profile it seems instead that the certification of cacao varietals, such as the labels ‘Fine and Flavour Cacao’, ‘Cocoa of Excellence’ and ‘Heirloom Cacao’ are most frequently used.

Terroir-specific chocolates Mass blends dominated the chocolate industry until the late 80’s when Valrhona introduced their first single origin chocolate bar. This was followed by Bonnat, Scharffen Berger and then many more chocolate makers. Single origin (meaning a blend of beans coming from one specific country) ruled among chocolate aficionados for decades and many flavour maps still describe the ‘flavour of a country’ with only one general flavour note such as nutty or earthy. With the emerging fine chocolate market, the demand first from makers but nowadays even from consumers is growing for more transparency and more specificity. Hence the appearance of single estate, single plantation and single bean la-

bels. This is understandable, as it indeed seems unrealistic to say that big countries with huge geographical and climatic variations such as the main South American growing regions would be limited to a couple of loosely defined flavour notes. A good example for regional differences is the map created by Marou to depict the flavour variations within Vietnam in a similar way to a wine map.

An interesting example to showcase the importance of terroir is a pair of bars made in the UK

by Duffy Sheardown. The two bars, a Honduras Indio Rojo and a Guatemala Rio Dulce, are said to be originated from the very same set of beans planted

by Xoco, in two different countries. According to Frank Homan of Xoco, “the DNA of the beans used are the same, the Mayan Red variety. They are grafted onto the same rootstock but the young trees are planted in different countries. The fermentation is done centrally, they use the same protocol in both countries.”

Duffy then roasts and conches the beans the same way, leaving the only difference in influential factors to terroir, specifically the environmental elements of the two different growing regions. As Duffy explains, the ageing process works differently for each bean origin, the Honduras

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slowly matures and improves while the Guatemala changes more radically from an almost unpleasant black pepper note to a nicely nuanced spiced honey.

Ingemann Fine Cacao is a specialist in cacao genetics and fermentation in Nicaragua. Lars Moller general manager, says 30% of chocolate’s flavour is developed from genetics and the other 70% through fermentation.

This means that by having clear genetic data and applying controlled post-harvest processes (fermentation and drying), it is possible to create endless flavour profiles from the same cacao variety, grown at the same place but using different protocols, or by blending specific varieties. They pride themselves in creating high quality cacao that also ensures consistency from one harvest to the other. So, it doesn’t matter so much what the weather conditions were like as the fermentation method can be adjusted.

Focusing more on the human factors of terroir, fermentation is key for Mikkel Friis-Holm who has several fermentation-specific bars in his range and works closely with Ingemann. According to Mikkel, the four biggest impacts on flavour in the final chocolate are: genetics, fermentation, roasting and conching – the first two being part of the

broader notion of terroir. He adds that the environmental factors such as soil and weather can be adjusted in fermentation if we have precise genetics and fermentation protocols. With his fermentation-specific bars, he shows what is possible to achieve in terms of flavour profile and consistency by carefully monitoring and adjusting cacao fermentation, instead of keeping to over-generalisations by talking about the flavour of a given country.

As a conclusion, it’s true that both environmental and human elements of terroir affect the final flavour of chocolate. It appears that applying science in post-harvest processes allows us to control what seemed uncontrollable (like weather conditions) and even open up countless possibilities for various flavour profiles to develop from the same bean variety, grown at the same place (with most of the terroir elements being exactly the same). This doesn’t mean we can’t still talk about the fruitiness of Peruvian beans, or the floral notes of Ecuador. But we can turn our gaze towards applied sciences and discovering more about the potential that lies within cacao genetics and controlled post-harvest methods. This way we can finally achieve the flavour consistency that consumers look

for, while also letting farmers be more in control of their work and being less dependent on uncertain weather conditions.

Whilst the unpredictability of craft chocolate is part of the magic, giving the makers and farmers the opportunity to recreate their favourite batch is surely pretty magic too.

Lilla Toth-Tatai is a qualified chocolatier, certified chocolate taster, and the founder of Little Beetle Chocolates. She lives in Vienna and constantly strives to uplift the craft chocolate community, from organising tasting events to creating the Taste.Better. Chocolate. bean to bar advent calendar.

Follow her at: littlebeetle.co.uk

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The Children Paying for Cheap Chocolate A closer look at the injustices taking the sweetness out of chocolate.

Words by Lukas Reinhardt & Ruby Willow

In early June this year (2019), an investigative story by the Washington Post brought worldwide attention to the illegal, immoral and painfully commonplace issues plaguing the cocoa industry. Unfortunately, this story which yet again exposed illegal child labour, human trafficking, and slavery in the cocoa industry was not breaking news. For over two decades, the world-leading chocolate manufacturers (including the likes of Mars, Nestlé, Lindt, Barry Callebaut, and many more) have promised to tackle the issue with little to no results to show.

Dark Chocolate Around 70% of the world’s cocoa beans originate from West Africa, where it is grown as a commodity crop destined for export. In the Ivory Coast, 60% of the country’s $11.74 billion export revenue in 2017 came from its cocoa alone. The $110 billion dollar chocolate industry has seen considerable growth over the last few decades, so you wouldn’t be blamed for thinking cocoa is a lucrative business. However, for the farmers who grow the most

important component of chocolate - this couldn’t be further from the truth. The average income of a cocoa farmer in the Ivory Coast is just $0.78 per day, far below the poverty line. With so little money to make ends meet, plantation owners have resorted to the use of child labour and trafficked workers in order to keep their farms afloat.

The majority of child workers in the cocoa industry are between 12 and 16 years old, although there have been reports of children as young as 5. These children are abducted and trafficked from small villages in neighbouring countries, such as Mali, Guinea, and Burkina Faso, and forced to work as cocoa pickers. The vast majority of children won’t see a single penny for their work, let alone ever see their families again. As children, many of us complained about going to school - with our biggest concerns being maths homework and curfews.

These children could only dream of such a luxury, with education out of the window and no laws to protect them from a harsh and dangerous world that they rarely escape.

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Picture yourself as a child, barefoot, hungry and carrying your body weight in fruit. The work these children carry out includes using heavy machinery to clear forests and wielding machetes to pry open cocoa pods. Because this is an illegal practice, there’s nobody to enforce the children’s safety or wellbeing, leaving them vulnerable to mental and physical abuse. A shocking 96% of the 2.2 million children estimated to be working in cocoa in Western Africa are said to be involved in these hazardous conditions.

of transparency in the cocoa trade, allowing big chocolate companies to continuously evade their responsibilities. The cocoa they buy is not traceable, as various stakeholders are involved from the cocoa plantation until it reaches the ports, where it is eventually bought in bulk. In fact, Nestlé can trace less than half of its global cocoa supply back to their farms and if they don’t know where it has come from, they certainly don’t know whose hands it’s passed through.

Unfortunately, whilst most reports come from West Africa, the issue of appalling working conditions has been reported on plantations all over the world.

This is a worldwide epidemic and honestly, we have no idea how many children suffer daily. So where did we go so wrong?

There’s a global and ever-increasing demand for cheap chocolate. Chocolate, a luxury, none essential food item with an extremely complex production is expected to be cut-rate and give change from a pound. It’s displayed at the tills in the supermarket as an affordable add on to our shopping, marketed at children and bought daily.

By continuously undervaluing the work that goes into creating one of the West’s favourite foods we refuse to pay the true price of chocolate, letting children pay for the rest.

Endless Profits and Empty Promises For over two decades chocolate manufacturers have pledged to uproot the issue of child slave labour.

In 2001, an international agreement, also known as the Harkin-Engel Protocol, was signed by the likes of Barry Callebaut, Cargill, Lindt, Mars, Nestlé, Cadbury, Ferrero and many of the largest players in the chocolate industry with the aim of eliminating the worst forms of child slave labour by 2005. Yet, numerous delays, extensions and target modifications later, and the cocoa industry has consecutively failed to deliver on their promises - each time with absolutely no consequences. When the question of whether there was ever any chance of child labour being eradicated in this timeframe, Peter McAllister, who led the International Cocoa Initiative from 2003 to 2010 said: “No, never.”

What About All Those Labels?

Nearly 15 years later and their pledge has not just been unmet, but lessened to eradicating just 70% of child slave labour by 2020. Yet with the date looming, the cocoa industry is once again nowhere near their target. The biggest issue being the lack

You may be wondering how these statistics can be so when so many supermarket chocolate bars are embellished in impressive-looking labels. Rainforest Alliance, Fairtrade, and UTZ Certified are among the nonprofit organisations which are supposed to guarantee ethically-sourced, free from child-labour chocolate. And whilst certifica-

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ly shared a list of chocolate makers who they recommend, based on whether the chocolate maker sources cocoa harvested from child slave labour.

You can visit the list at www.foodispower.org/chocolate-list.

Craft chocolate brands like Good-Now Farms in the US are leading the way. They told us that for them “Direct trade means a boots-on-the-ground, personal relationship with each producer and as many farmers as we’re able to meet.� Irradicating child labour from our cupboards starts with respecting the people who make it possible and expecting more from makers.

tions such as Fairtrade have honourable intentions and pay a marginal premium for their cocoa - it is untrue that certified equals sustainable, or arguably even moral chocolate. Disappointingly, certified farms have routinely been found to be connected with child labour, deforestation, and other human rights violations. Until these companies can provide more earnest and reliable promises, conscious consumers are rightly wary to take their labels at face value.

Direct Trade Luckily, there is an alternative for consumers. In fact, we have immense power in our hands to tackle this crisis. Supporting craft chocolate makers who source their cacao either through sustainable cooperatives or directly with the farmers. In order to support cacao growers, many craft chocolate makers pay a fixed-price two to three times above those of Fairtrade. This ensures that farmers are able to grow higher-quality cacao whilst guaranteeing secure and stable incomes, protecting them from the daily fluctuations of the world cocoa price.

A great place to start is with the organisation Food Empowerment Project (FEP), who has kindBEAN | 20

It Doesn’t End with Cocoa Journalists and activists have shined a much-needed light on the injustices within cocoa farming, and the bean to bar movement has worked tirelessly to rework chocolate processes so that the wealth is fairly distributed. This is amazing. However, with the exception of 100% bars, chocolate is made from other ingredients, and that almost always includes sugar. If a third or even half of the chocolate bar is made from sugar (which has been sadly coined The Hunger Crop, for its shocking treatment of farmers) then even if the cacao is ethical, the end result might not be. Because of this, it’s crucial we look at all of the ingredients in our chocolate and understand where they’re sourced and what practices are put in place to guarantee that children and slave labourers are not being used in their production.

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to hear your message for what it is, do their own research and respond accordingly.

Three Things We Can Do 1. Talk. The fact that you’re reading this magazine makes us think you probably already know and care about where your chocolate is sourced. But, like most of us, there was a time that you didn’t. And when somebody came along and burst your bubble, and told you the horror stories that probably made you want to throw your Kit-Kat right at them, you were left with a decision to make. Now it’s up to you to be that person for your sister and your neighbour and your colleague. If they still want to support that industry, then it’s by no means your responsibility to stop them but by sharing what you know you give them the opportunity to make their own choice. We all know that guilt rarely evokes long-term change, and we’re not about punishing our friends for eating peanut butter cups, but here are some thoughtful ways you can start the conversation: - Pick your moment! Rather than waiting until they’re tucking into their favourite treat, let them know before they buy so they can consider a different purchase if they want to. Better yet, surprise them with your favourite bar so they know cruelty-free chocolate doesn’t just feel good.

- Share what you know, and what you don’t. Unwanted know-it-all lectures will only ever result in defensiveness, and before you know it the conversation has been shut down. What’s more, a lot of us are afraid that we’re not qualified or educated enough to give our opinions, anyway. Instead, be honest about where you are on your journey, what and where you learnt the information, share websites, news articles and makers as you find them and ask others to do the same. Many people doing their best makes more of an impact than one perfect person.

- Wrongly or rightly, social media gets a bad rep for it’s ever imposing influence in our lives, but sometimes, it’s just the ticket. Face to face conversations about serious and upsetting subjects can feel awkward, controversial and even heated. By sharing what you know online you can reach more of your circle at once and word things exactly as you mean to. With time on their side, people have the chance

2. Support ethical chocolate. The most enjoyable way to make a difference is to buy and eat craft chocolate from makers who can proudly tell you where and who their ingredients come from. If you already have that down, then look for other ways you can raise up the speciality chocolate community. Supporting brands you love on social media, turning up to their stalls and events, running your own tastings or creating your own content in the form of blogs or podcasts are all ways you can make a difference.

3. Tell big chocolate what you think. If you don’t support the practices of the large companies who profit off and fuel this vicious cycle, then let them know. It’s easy to feel like your voice is too small to make a difference, and on its own it probably is - Nestlé isn’t bothered by what you think. However, when your voice joins with others a revolution begins, and although the progress might be slow, change really does happen. You can write emails, sign petitions or simply stop giving your money to companies who don’t align with your values by boycotting their products. After all, when brands see the market changing, they change with it.

Let’s Be The Change While ticking every box on the ethical chocolate checklist might seem overwhelming, any step you make takes us one day closer to a world where there are no children in our supply chain. Let’s enjoy chocolate, pay farmers for their work and give children their childhoods back. Let’s be the change we want to see.

All graphs and infographics have been kindly given

by Antonie Fountain from VOICE Network. VOICE Network is an NGO watchdog dedicated to reforming the cocoa sector. In 2012, 2015 and 2018 they released crucial sustainability reports called Cocoa Barometers which gave an accurate update on the situation of child slave labour and other human rights tragedies in the West African cocoa industry.

Find them at: VoiceNetwork.eu

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Illustration from 1907 Book: Cocoa & Chocolate

Drinking Chocolate Around The World

Hot cocoa, champurrado, a la taza and tsokolate; georgraphy never tasted so good.

Words by Ruby Willow

Over 15% of Americans drink between two and five cups of hot chocolate every day. In fact, we have been drinking cacao far longer than we have been eating it. The Mayans started the phenomenon off way back in 500BC and it seems the charm has never worn off. If you think back to your own personal history with drinking chocolate, you may have warm childhood memories of family recipes or maybe it’s a certain cafe or a favourite mug which comes to mind. Yet, it might surprise you to know that people drink chocolate all across the globe. Sure, it holds a lot of different names and a whole range of recipes, but it seems nobody is immune to the joy of a mug full of chocolate.

The Americas The Americas have a very special history with drinking chocolate, with the Aztec and Maya people being the first to enjoy cacao in liquid form. The Mayans served it as a bitter and spicy drink made

from ground up cocoa beans, water, cornmeal and chilli. While the Aztecs drank Xocolatl, a bitter water and cocoa bean mix, which in the ancient Aztec language of Náhuatl translates to ‘bitter water’. Interestingly, they would continuously transfer the liquid from their cups to the pot until a thick foam developed, a popular finish we still aim for today, although now more commonly the result of a whisk.

Mexicans today buy their chocolate in scored hexagonal blocks from the local store and break it into pieces to make a drink called Champurrado. There are two chocolate brands dominating the market for this, Ibarra and Nestlé owned Abuelita. However, the craft chocolate brand Taza also creates a round disk style chocolate using a stoneground Mexican method. Champurrado is found at important cultural celebrations like Day Of The Dead but also consumed year-round by many.

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Champurrado

1 cup of milk 1 disc of taza chocolate mexicano 85% 1 tsp of cinnamon 2 tsp of cornstarch sea salt (to taste) Further north, you’ll find the hot cocoa of children’s cartoons and dreams - sweet, creamy and overflowing with toppings.

Whipped cream and marshmallows are non-negotiable and when it comes to wafers and sprinkles, it’s the more the merrier! Although these toppings didn’t all originate from the US - they have definitely made their home on the menus there and are there to stay. This is in no doubt partially due to growing social media trends, meaning that many taste with their camera before their mouth, and Insta wor-

thy and pretty beverages are as important as the flavour. Extras aside, chocolate in the States is drunk both cold as a frothy milkshake and warm with powder or syrup added to milk.

It’s an $857 million dollar industry, with Nestlé, Conagra Brands Inc. and Hershey’s taking up the largest market share. Hot cocoa consumption here is highest in the winter months and holds strong connotations with Christmas and winter for Americans.

Served sweet and steaming, it’s a perfect drink for warming up by the fire throughout the holidays.

Hot Cocoa

sweetened cocoa powder (quantity as stated) 1 cup of whole milk whipped cream marshmallows Europe Although one of the worlds biggest consumers today, Europe didn’t taste chocolate until Spanish Conquistador, Don Hernán Cortés, brought cocoa beans back to Spain from his travels in 1528. The popularity of drinking chocolate slowly grew across Spain, Italy, France, Holland and by the 1650’s it had reached England. By then, it was agreed that chocolate was best drunk warm and the chilli enjoyed by the Aztecs was swapped out for sugar.

The Spanish enjoy their drinking chocolate so thick it’s served

with a spoon and many don’t drink it at all. Despite its indulgent and rich recipe and the fact that it’s traditionally accompanied with cake, cookies or most frequently today, fried churros, it’s a common breakfast item.

The 18th-century Valencian writer Marco Antonio Orellana summed up their regional dedication pretty well with this famous poem: “Oh, divine chocolate! kneeling they grind you, hands folded they whisk you, and eyes to heaven they drink you.”

Chocolate a la Taza

½ 1/2 cup whole milk ½ 1/2 cup whipping cream 85 grams dark chocolate 1 tsp sugar 1/2 tsp cornstarch Austrian’s are better known for putting chocolate in cake than drinking it, after Franz Sacher created their now world-famous Sacher-Torte in 1832 for the Emporer. When it comes to food, Vienna likes it rich and decadent, and their drinking culture is no different.

Their hot chocolate of choice is made with beaten egg yolk, smothered in whipped cream, and best served in a classic Viennese Coffee House. There you can sip your indulgent drink (despite the name, hot chocolates are also available) and listen to the house pianist for as long as you can spare, because unlike many cafe cultures around the world, Austrians believe they’re a BEAN | 26

place “where time and space are consumed, but only the coffee is found on the bill.”

Viennese Hot Chocolate

1 cup of milk 60 grams dark chocolate 1 egg yolk top with freshly whipped cream Asia In the Philippines, you’ll find a simple but delicious chocolate drink called Tsokolate. There are two different names for this traditional Filipino beverage; tsokolate eh and tsokolate ah, and which one you’re given is more important than you may think! An ‘eh’ on the end means you’re in for a treat, with a rich, thick and concentrated drink coming your way. Get lumped with an ‘ah’ and you can expect a thin and watered-down version, generally given to less important guests.

With a modest recipe of chocolate, water and optional sugar, what makes this drink stand out is the unique equipment used.

Filipino hot chocolate is made in a ‘tsokolatera’, a high necked metal pot, and mixed with a ‘batidor’, a wooden whisk which looks similar to a honey stirrer, and froths the mixture to make a creamy and delicious drink. The traditional recipe doesn’t just call for any old chocolate either. Purists, vegans and chocolate lovers will enjoy traditional tablea ca-

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Oil Painting from 1768 The family of the Duke of Penthièvre called la tasse de chocolat

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Illustration from 1685 Dufour, Philippe Sylvestre

cao, which is derived from 100% ground cocoa beans and hasn’t had any of the cocoa butter removed.

Tsokolate

1 cup of water 3 discs of tablea cacao 1 tbsp muscovado sugar India is synonymous with spice and chai spiced drinks have been making their way onto menus worldwide for quite some time.

Chai, meaning tea in India, but often followed by ‘spiced’ in cafes, generally refers to a mixture of popular Indian spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and clove and it’s been enjoyed in drinks for thousands of years. Because drinking chocolate is most popular during the colder months it’s no surprise that these winter-friendly spices make the perfect marriage when paired with warm chocolate.

Chai Spiced Hot Chocolate

1 cup of milk 4 tbsp cocoa powder 1 tbsp sugar

1/4 tsp vanilla bean paste

1 tbsp of chai spice (ginger, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg) Africa

Africa grows more cocoa than anywhere else in the world, but most of what is grown here is

shipped out for export, not made into delicious drinks. Whether it’s the climate or the sad fact that poverty is still prevalent through much of the continent many cocoa farmers have never tried a bar of chocolate, let alone drank it.

When you search for ‘African hot chocolate’, you’ll find one name come up again and again. A very famous and supposedly delicious, if stomach achingly rich, African hot chocolate. Despite the name, however, it is not consumed in Africa. The title comes from the fact that it’s made from a blend of African grown cocoa beans, which, considering 70% of the worlds cocoa is grown there, isn’t surprising. This is a Parisian speciality that has become a must on many foodies list with tourists flocking to ‘Angelinas’ glamorous cafe for a taste.

In Nigeria, you’ll find a drink they confusingly call tea, which actually has no tea leaves at all and is closer to American hot cocoa.

It’s a common breakfast drink and includes a specific brand of malty powdered drinking chocolate called Milo, mixed with evaporated milk and water.

Nigerian Tea

1 tin evaporated milk ½1 cup of hot water 1 tbsp milo

Culture in a Cup It’s fascinating to see how the culture of each country is in every cup of chocolate they drink. The tradition and familBEAN | 29

ial connections running so deep that many of us have never even used a formal recipe, or considered tweaking it from anything other than the way our parents made it for us, and how their parents made it for them. Wherever we are in the world, one thing is clear: drinking chocolate makes us feel good.

I think, though, what makes hot chocolate mean so much to us, are the memories we attach to it.

Some scientists say food memories are the most evocative of all because they use all five senses and remind us not just of the taste but the context of when we enjoyed it - which for most of us, will be happy and relaxing times.

Psychologist and neuroscientist Hadley Bergstrom claims this is due to the “reinforcing nature of food, and that is what drives memory formation in the brain.”

So if you feel refreshed, comforted and simply better after drinking chocolate it might be more than the theobromine. It could be that deep down you’re being reminded of family parties, your great grandmother, snow days off school, or whatever tastes sweet to you.

The best part? We can continue to build upon these memories and take inspiration from a whole world of chocolate lovers.

Next time you’re travelling or enjoying somebody’s hospitality, why not ask them if they can tell you a little more about where their favourites originate from and see what you can learn. And in the meantime, challenge yourself to try out some of these recipes and experiment in the name of geography!

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Ecuador’s Fight to Preserve Heirloom Cacao

Heirloom cacao varieties are under attack, but thankfully, the fight to preserve them is well underway.

Words & Photography by Eric Gilbert

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Theobroma cacao is the source of all chocolate and related products, and it occupies a special place in people’s hearts, one unmatched by other foods. This delicate tree has specific botanical needs including rainfall, sunlight, soil conditions, elevation and pollinators. The cacao tree has often been plagued by fungal diseases, viral infections, and devastating damage from various insect pests. Deforestation and environmental degradation are also serious concerns. All of these issues are compounded by the current climate crisis, which threatens the very viability of cacao cultivation.

In the face of myriad, complex problems, there are significant efforts by a wide spectrum of stakeholders taking place. Cacao farmers, scientists, and governmental agencies are working to find solutions. Small businesses are working directly with farmers. Universities, transnational corporations and NGOs are funding research and implementing projects to protect and preserve this treasured tree. There are efforts to strengthen and reinvigorate the genetic varieties of cacao being planted,

however, the risks of monoculture in cacao and a loss of diversity is a serious and ongoing concern.

Where It All Began Until recently there had been a longstanding debate about the origins of cacao. One side theorised that cacao originated in the land of the Maya, Olmec and Aztec, in what is today Central America. The second hypothesis claimed that cacao originated in the Amazon region and spread from there. The work of J.C. Motamayor et al. (working in conjunction with MARS inc.) settled this debate in favour of the South American hypothesis. This was due to his findings that the spread of cacao throughout the Caribbean, into Africa and on to Indonesia and South East Asia is better documented and understood. It has been shown that the genetic diversity of cacao in West Africa is not as deep as in Latin America and this has led to further problems for the cultivation of cacao.

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A second fascinating result of Motamayors research was the discovery of ten genetic clusters of cacao as opposed to the three main varieties (Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario) that had previously been known. The final facet of Motamayors studies was the realisation that many of the varieties of cacao that currently exist in germoplasm collections around the world have been misidentified. Dr Osman Gutierrez, working with the USDA in Miami, is working diligently to reassess 235 cacao ascensions.

Scholarly work in the field of Archaeology by Sonia Zarillo et al. at The University of British Columbia, Canada showed the presence of compounds found only in cacao in Pre Colombian pottery vessels in Ecuador. These pottery shards were dated to approximately 5,450 years ago, which predates known archaeological evidence of humans using cacao by 1,500 years.

The fascinating research by these scholars, from different fields of academia, complement each

other and have contributed greatly to our growing knowledge of the origin, spread and use of Theobroma cacao.

Cacao Cultivation and Climate Change As global demand for chocolate increases so does the research dedicated to the effects of climate change and the cultivation of cacao. Most of this research indicates negative impacts across all areas of cacao production. Given the importance of West Africa to the global production of cacao, much research is focused on this region. Some studies, including the journal Climatic Change and Research

by P. Läderach (among many others), use climate models to assess climate suitability for cacao cultivation. The research indicates that Ghana and the Ivory Coast may be unable to cultivate cacao beyond 2050. The threats are multi-pronged and combine to create a bleak outlook. Deforestation, reduced rainfall, higher temperatures, increased

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rates of evapotranspiration, an increase in severity and occurrence of severe weather and drought are among the many facets of how climate change will affect cacao cultivation around the world.

It can be overwhelming to look at an all-encompassing global issue like climate change through the lens of one ingredient. However, it will take a coordinated effort on all fronts to tackle these problems and it might just be that a love for chocolate can help spur people to awareness and action.

Time is crucial, but there are initiatives taking place that acknowledge and react to these threats.

Scientists and farmers are hard at work breeding and planting hardier, drought tolerant and disease resistant cacao varieties. Efforts are underway to regenerate existing cacao farms and reduce the trend towards deforesting for new plantations.

Agroforestry methods and shade trees are being used. Scholarly research is ramping up, governments, NGOs and chocolate companies are beginning to work together to face some of these issues.

The genetic diversity of Theobroma cacao plays a crucial role in the research and implementation of initiatives relating to cacao and climate change.

CCN51 Long before climate change was acknowledged as a serious threat to cacao cultivation, various pests and diseases were wreaking havoc on cacao crops with disastrous effects for farmers and their livelihoods. Upwards of 40% of potential cacao crops are lost annually worldwide due to disease. In the late 1960s Homer Castro bred a variety of cacao called CCN51 which was highly productive, sun tolerant, and most importantly, disease-resistant (specifically to the dreaded ‘Witches Broom’). This variety was initially seen as a great step forward in the world of cacao cultivation and has since been planted in many cacao producing countries and interbred with other varieties. The problem with CCN51 was that its flavour was viewed as low quality and not favoured by speciality chocolate makers. However, for cacao farmers who are paid by the pound for their crop and are often uninvolved in the chocolate making processes, the benefits of productivity and disease resistance outweigh the importance of flavour.

Ecuador is home to some of the worlds most highly sought after cacao, Cacao Nacional Fino de Aroma, often known as Cacao Nacional. The widespread uptake of CCN51, particularly after the cyclical El Niño weather event in the late 1990s, is seen as a threat to Cacao Nacional and the genetic diversity of cacao in Ecuador. Widespread adoption of CCN51 is also leading to problematic monoculture plantations. These plantations are linked to reduced biodiversity, reduced carbon sequestration, deforestation, soil nutrient depletion and erosion.

Unfortunately, most of the world’s cacao is produced by poor farmers with small landholdings of less than 10 hectares. By 2015, 36% of Ecuadorian cacao exports were CCN51, displacing the fine flavour varieties. Without financial incentives for farmers to produce fine flavour varieties, this trend is only going to increase.

Bean to Bar vs. Big Business West Africa grows over 60% of the world’s cacao, with Ghana and the Ivory Coast being the most significant producers. Most of the cocoa beans in the world move through three transnational corporations; ADM Cocoa, Cargill and Barry Callebaut.

The majority is then traded on the New York and London stock exchanges which leads to instability and speculation, further fueled by weather events, rumour, weak harvests and political events. This present globalized commodity trading system does not provide a path out of poverty for farmers or eliminate child labour. Nor does it promote genetic diversity of cacao or encourage environmental stewardship. As has historically been the case, the cacao farmers bear the brunt of negative effects that this system creates and perpetuates.

However, there are many examples of positive initiatives that are creating benefits throughout the chain of cacao production. While still a niche market, the rapid growth of small bean to bar chocolate makers is having hugely beneficial impacts for farmers, chocolate producers and consumers.

Many bean to bar chocolate companies have direct relationships with farmers and farmer-owned cooperatives. Consumers are more conscious of ethical and environmental considerations related

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to the production of cacao and the chocolate that they choose to eat.

The digital age allows rapid connection and communication between producers and consumers.

Farmers can have direct access to markets and move beyond predatory intermediaries. The bean to bar movement in the chocolate world has a great opportunity to educate consumers and to work directly with cacao farmers to confront the systemic problems that plague the entire range of cacao cultivation and chocolate production.

Making Changes In the face of such problems, there are also many encouraging efforts. The Kallari Association in the Amazon region of Ecuador is often looked at as a model of how farmers can organize themselves into cooperatives, make direct contact with markets, preserve and protect the environment and make award-winning chocolate. Director Carlos Poso has stated that the cooperative grafts and distributes fine flavour varieties of cacao to members through their own nursery program and does not use CCN51. The cooperative provides extension services, technical assistance and field schools to the 850 families in 21 communities involved in the coop. At great expense, 99% of the farms are organically certified, and all of the farmers involved use agroforestry methods as opposed to monoculture systems.

This is an organization on the front line of all the issues facing cacao cultivation and is connected on their own terms with other stakeholders in the chain of production. He told me how they have “gathered 50 varieties of wild cacao from the Napo province in the Ecuadorian Amazon and planted them in a demonstration agroforestry farm (chakra modelo).” Of which, “ten show traits of productivity, flavour and disease resistance. We are growing these out in the model agroforestry farm with the aim of distributing them to the members of our cooperative.”

The Kallari Association is also building a chocolate factory near Tena, Ecuador with the aim of making chocolate using their members own cacao.

This will help them move beyond selling the raw

primary product and into selling the value-added finished chocolate while creating employment and educational opportunities for the community.

Other commendable farmer-owned cooperatives such as The Grenada Chocolate Company already exist and new cooperatives continue to be formed.

Amongst others, scientists Dr Osman Gutierrez, Dr Juan Carlos Motamayor, Dr Freddy Amores and Dr Victor Gonzalez are all working with the germoplasm collections in their respective countries.

They share information and coordinate research and initiatives. The importance of preserving the genetic diversity of cacao and the collaborative links between international governments and universities around the world cannot be overstated.

The largest germoplasm collection in the world is in Trinidad and Tobago at the International Cocoa Genebank. There are over 2000 types of cacao being grown here and access to scientists internationally has been crucial to breeding programs and research around the world.

Non-profit organizations and other NGOs also have important collaborative roles to play. The World Cocoa Foundation (WCF) focuses on empowering cacao farmers, environmental stewardship and human rights. The global International Cocoa Organization (ICCO), founded in 1973, is engaged in projects related to cacao pests and pathogens, sustainable cacao economies, cocoa germplasm utilization and conservation, and cacao markets. The Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund collaborates with the USDA and has a nursery program dedicated to preserving and protecting cacao varietals while improving cacao farmer livelihoods.

Business interests also have a role to play. The “Big Three” (ADM Cocoa, Cargill and Barry Callebaut) as well as Hershey’s, Nestlé and Lindt, have all made their own efforts to face the serious issues in the cacao supply chain, with varying results. Unfortunately, some of these influential corporations benefit from the status quo, but due to their significant market share and control, more should be expected from them. Meanwhile, many smaller chocolate makers focus on the environment, ethical trade and the direct relationship they create with farmers.

This rise of bean to bar chocolate makers should be celebrated as punching above their weight.

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Photography Vinayaraj 2018

However, these craft chocolate frontiers are not the only ones able to affect positive change. By demanding transparency, educating themselves, choosing high-quality chocolate over candy bars, refusing to spend their money on products from corporations tainted by environmental abuses and by supporting positive initiatives consumers can lead the way.

The Responsibility is Ours to Share The issues that negatively affect cacao cultivation around the world are complex and intertwined. A narrow focus on economics with disregard for ethical and environmental concerns within the global chocolate industry has resulted in the existential threat to the genetic diversity of cacao. A coherent response to these issues will require international cooperation and collaboration on many fronts from all stakeholders. An emphasis on smallholder cacao farmers and the environment is the most crucial place to measure progress and implement initiatives. The cacao farmers of the world are not victims without agency in this crisis, despite bearing the brunt of the negative impacts.

We all have a responsibility to keep precious, heirloom varieties of cacao alive and time is not on our side. Vote with your wallet, demand change and most importantly: care about your chocolate.

Eric Gilbert grew up making chocolate with his family at their business, The Island Chocolate Company in Prince Edward Island, Canada. He and his sister, Emma, recently won several awards at the Canadian competition of the International Chocolate Awards. Eric began working with cacao farmers in 2006 as a university exchange student. He has since worked in Canada, U.S.A., Ecuador, Honduras, and Nicaragua, and is currently pursuing a Masters Degree at the University of Prince Edward Island focusing on climate change and cacao cultivation and his research has taken him to the U.S.A., Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, and Puerto Rico. He can be reached at eric@islandchocolates.ca

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Section

Thailand From the history of cacao in Thailand to discovering Thai flavours with Taste with Colour.

Photography Arnie Chou

Crafting Chocolate in the Land of Smiles Chocolate in Thailand: Past, Present, Future.

Words by Max Gandy Illustrations by Reginald Swinney Thailand’s capital city of Bangkok is full of temples, affordable street food, and endless markets.

It was the most-visited city in the world in 2018, largely thanks to cheap flights from nearby Asian countries. But it continues to grow in popularity as a travel destination, partly due to global awareness of Thai cuisine, in particular the £1 curries and fried rice dishes which have come to symbolise its street food. Bangkok’s rising global profile can only continue to enrich its rap-

idly-expanding fine dining scene, robust expat community, and the nearly dozen craft chocolate makers that call the city home.

Thailand is most often billed as the land of smiles, perfect for backpackers looking to stretch each dollar, and vacationers seeking affordable luxury. We don’t really go to Thailand for fine dining.

But we could.

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Introducing The Thai Palate Gastronomic travel is rising in popularity around the world, and Thailand is the perfect spot to combine a beach vacation with cooking classes and food tours.

In Thai restaurants abroad, we often taste only a small portion of the country’s many dishes. But Thailand has a rich history and large geographic diversity, all of which has affected what people eat and where, in turn dictating

what kinds of traditional dishes could come out of Thailand. The country extends 1,648 km (1,024 mi) from north to south, and is often divided into three regions — North, Central, and South — each of which can be roughly divided by its own unique dishes and crops.

Northern Thailand is bordered

by Laos and Myanmar, and its cuisine shares ingredients and cooking styles with those of its

neighbors. Pork, seasonal local vegetables, and heavy-handed spices characterize the stir fries for which the region is known.

The climate is also coolest in the north, and in turn the region can grow more temperate fruits than can be found in the center and south of the country. Tropical fruits like cacao still grow here, but they’re not as common as they are in hotter regions of Thailand.

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Central Thailand takes up a larger portion of the country than the north, encompassing Bangkok as well as the regions bordering Cambodia, southern Myanmar, and Laos. Most internationally-known Thai dishes find their origin in this region, for example coconut milk-based curries with sticky rice, and papaya salad alongside tom yum soup. The climate there is hot enough year round that cacao is grown in several parts of the region, though

it’s a cash crop more so than a locally-consumed fruit.

Southern Thailand is where the bulk of the country’s cacao has historically been grown. Their cuisine is marked by coconut milk and heavy heat from chillies, often combined into a stovetop curry. Seafood is the main source of protein, and some dishes may contain more fruits than vegetables. Notably, coffee is also a common crop in southern Thailand, and local fire-roasted coffee is common in cafes. Soon, hopefully local chocolate will be, too. But first, they’ve got to grow demand.

As interesting as it is to raise and process a product like cacao, it’s

difficult to build a manufacturing industry around it if nobody consumes it locally. Thailand’s been growing cacao on a very small scale for over a century, but until recently it was basically all for export, as are many fruits grown in Thailand. So while a few Thai people may have snacked on cacao in the same way as they consume other fruits, no matter how you look at it, for Thailand’s farmers cacao has always lacked cultural roots.

This is important to consider in Thailand’s chocolate chronology. Because as a business owner, it doesn’t make sense to open a cafe or start a chocolate factory based on the potential that tourists may visit. Chocolate makers

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have had to build up local interest in Thai chocolate before investing in something so new, not to mention cultivating local sources for quality cacao. Even though cacao can be grown across Thailand, it’s easier to cultivate in the central and southern regions, where many cacao farmers are now focusing their attention.

Thailand’s Fledgeling Cacao Industry Cacao was first brought to Thailand decades ago, as part of a plan by large chocolate manufacturers to expand the crop’s growing region into more of

Asia. It thrived especially well in the southern half of the country, which shares much of its border with Myanmar and Malaysia. But when nearby Indonesian and Malaysian cacao began dominating the regional market in the 1980’s, many Thai farmers turned to rubber trees, sometimes completely replacing their cacao.

Until several years ago, most Thai farmers sold their cacao to large regional manufacturers, as there wasn’t enough local market to justify investing in expensive processing equipment and farmer training. The Thailand Cocoa Center, based in the northern city of Chiang Mai, has been working to develop the ideal cacao for Thailand’s climates. They came up with the IM1 varietal, a hybrid of a criollo type and the amelonado type, while the Thai Department of Agriculture has come up with the Chumphon 1 varietal. Together, these make up the two main types of cacao cultivated in Thailand, although other imported varieties may be found in small home gardens.

Modern cacao regions in Thai-

land include Chiang Mai in the north, Phetchaburi and Chanthaburi in the center, and Chumphon in the south. Abandoned cacao plantations have also been found on islands in southern Thailand, including Koh Samui and around Krabi. Paralleling the drop in market price and interest in cacao during the 1980’s, modern interest in cacao farming has risen alongside the current Asian craft chocolate movement. Curiosity may have brought cacao to the attention of many Thai farmers, but the lack of money in the industry quickly dampened that fire. Because the country can import cocoa butter and cocoa powder cheaply from neighboring Malaysia, in recent decades it hasn’t been necessary for them to cultivate more cacao.

So to encourage the growing local interest, both the government and potential buyers have been working to educate farmers on the value of intercropping cacao with other plants.

The rubber and coconut trees so common in the south are ideal, as they provide good shade for

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young trees. But what matters most to farmers is stability. Diversifying crops is all well and good, but what’s most appealing is having a market of local and international craft chocolate makers always willing to pay a premium for quality.

Unlike in Central and South America, where cacao has a long history, there’s no cultural connection between Thai people and cacao. This makes income the main motivator for local farmers, but if the quality is not high, then neither is the income. “Since cacao is fairly new in the country, many farmers are still in the process of learning and implementing best practices for fermentation, bean sorting, and storage,” says Neil Ransom, co-founder of Siamaya Chocolate in Chiang Mai. “We try to work directly with the farms we purchase from to help them improve their processes by giving them accurate feedback and connecting them to resources.” But it can’t be a one-sided or regional effort.

If cacao is to continue growing

in Thailand, it’s important that farmers learn how to properly process their harvest, so that once the novelty of Thai cacao dies down, farmers are still producing objectively great beans.

Unlike mangoes or oranges, the post-harvest preparation of cacao is ritualistic and complex, and proper farmer education will be key in moving the Thai cacao industry forward. Humans have long been processing and transforming our foods to suit, and in turn shape, our palates. Consider the case of American beets becoming sugar or German barley flavouring beer. In Thailand, cacao was just another fruit to harvest & sell— until it wasn’t.

Bringing Chocolate To Thailand

European, American, and Asian companies have been bringing finished chocolate into Thailand for many years. This is despite the fact that the country has been growing all the raw materials necessary to make it themselves, though not nearly enough of them. While Thailand’s cacao production is low relative to neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia, the country is the world’s 4th-largest grower of sugar cane. Like their historic cacao production, most of the fresh cane grass is sold to processing plants, either directly or through middlemen.

Much of the cane is turned into rum, like the domestic front runner SangSom, which is sold in bars and liquor stores across the country. There’s also a large THAILAND | 46

amount processed directly into sugar, giving local chocolate makers a potential partner to further the impact of their products. By sourcing or even producing local sugar themselves, chocolate makers could keep more of the value-add of their products within Thailand.

As long as there’s demand from chocolate makers or processors, and farmers willing to do the extra work pre- and post-harvest, there’s potential for much of the cacao grown in Thailand to become quality cacao beans.

The problem with sourcing all ingredients locally comes down to three things: proper processing, equipment, and cultural norms.

For most local cacao farmers, the only buyers for decades have been large manufacturers, which

kept prices and quality standards low. Bringing 100% Thai chocolate to the market will involve completely re-training most cacao farmers in post-harvest processing, so that their cacao meets the standards for fine flavour chocolate.

The most crucial issue at the moment is fermentation, which is often partial or incomplete, but is necessary to develop the flavour precursors for chocolate making. However, inadequate fermentation becomes less of an issue when chocolate makers are still struggling with finding or modifying equipment for choco-

late making purposes. There are 3 machines necessary for making chocolate at a professional scale: a roaster, a cracking & winnowing machine, and a refiner. Some of these can be substituted, for example an oven in place of a roaster, while others can only be further specialized to control quality, such as a refiner into both a grinder and a conche.

Once makers jump over the hurdles of sourcing quality cacao (domestically or abroad) and commissioning machinery, there’s then the question of finding their market. Like much of Asia, Thailand has been fed the THAILAND | 47

idea that the best chocolate is imported. Because for decades, it was. Even now as the craft chocolate movement and craft coffee are taking off across the country, there’s an ingrained idea that it’s still better to buy an imported product. Similar to in other Asian countries, purchasing imported goods is a sign of status and wealth, still unattainable for many Thai people.

The idea that you could afford to buy Belgian chocolates but choose to buy Thai chocolates is counterintuitive. There’s a strong cultural instinct going against the entire local market.

Thailand’s Booming Craft Chocolate Industry When small batch chocolate making materials started becoming available in the mid-2000’s, it didn’t just inspire home chocolate makers in North America and Europe. It also empowered a new and powerful wave of Thai small batch chocolate makers to enter the market. 2018 was the year during which over a dozen such chocolate makers appeared on the scene, particularly in Bangkok and the northern capital of Chiang Mai. If you haven’t been looking at global fine chocolate trends, you may not yet have noticed the rumble coming out of Southeast Asia.

Seemingly out of nowhere, Thailand put its cocoa and its chocolate on the map. Makers aren’t all doing the same 70% single origin chocolate bars which marked the beginnings of the American craft chocolate movement, either.

There are sugar-free and vegan chocolate makers, like Böhnchen & Co. Chocolate in Bangkok and Clean Chocolate in Chiang Mai. Some makers are exclusively sourcing local cacao, like Kad Kokoa and Shabar Chocolate, both based in Bangkok. Other makers are sourcing cacao both locally and internationally, while the tree to bar chocolate movement also starts to take off.

Tree to bar chocolate companies use cacao from their own farm, often exclusively grown on their land, to make chocolate. While

all of the current Thai chocolate makers have bars, many have also quickly rolled out bonbons and desserts, drinks, roasted nibs, and tasting flights. Chocolate cafes began popping up across Bangkok in spring 2018, with iced chocolate drinks falling into great favour. At the moment, very little Thai chocolate is available outside of the country; most Thai chocolate businesses are still less than two years old.

With their current heavy dependence upon the local market, Thai chocolate makers are working to appeal to their base through European-inspired products with Thai flavours.

Bonbons are a favourite in Bangkok, with some more unusual combinations being Galangal & Yuzu, Lemongrass & Lime, and Thai Milk Tea. The public seems to be attracted to both the ideal of healthy indulgence and the locality of the ingredients, as well as bright, elegant packaging.

Where they’re sourcing locally, small batch chocolate makers have the ability to empower farmers to understand the influence of quality cacao processing.

This hasn’t immediately brought small chocolate refiners to farms around the world, but it has opened up the possibility.

This year, 2019, has already brought a number of international chocolate experts to the country, looking for farmers who can offer remarkable, quality cacao. But global warming-related weather issues over the last year will spell trouble for farmers during the upcoming harvest.

This will likely translate into supply issues for local makers over THAILAND | 48

the next year or two, as there’s no way to know how much the last few years of planting cacao could offset this deficit. After all, makers are still running into issues with post-harvest processing across the country, and that’s not an easy problem to address.

There’s not yet a system in place to quickly and efficiently train farmers across the country, and ensure that they’re following those guidelines. It will be an uphill battle on all sides, but a worthy effort.

As of publication, there are over a dozen small batch chocolate makers throughout Thailand.

Some of them are developing their own cacao farms and working with nearby farmers to improve the overall quality of cacao processing in Thailand. Many others are using local cacao sourced from one single plantation or region, but each one of them is part of a movement to bring cacao’s value back to its source. In turn, they’re supporting a much larger gastronomic movement throughout Thailand, raising the country’s overall reputation as a food aficionado’s paradise.

So the next time you’re craving Thai food, consider adding a bar of local craft chocolate to the menu.

Max Gandy, also known as Dame Cacao, travels the world researching and recording stories about chocolate & cacao. She’s a certified chocolate maker, freelance writer, award-winning blogger, and host of the podcast ‘Chocolate On The Road.

Follow her at DameCacao.com.

Interested in more chocolate stories?

Visit our website www.readcacao.com

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Discovering the Flavours of Thai Chocolate using Taste With ColourÂŽ Hazel Lee is the creator of Taste With ColourÂŽ: The Chocolate Tasting Flavour Map, a part time Chocolate Consultant, member of the Academy of Chocolate, judge for the Academy of Chocolate Awards, Northwest Chocolate Awards and Premio Bean to Bar Brasil, Home Bean to Bar Chocolate Maker and Cocoa Adventurer.

She spends her free time hosting tasting and painting workshops using Taste With Colour, visiting chocolate factories and cocoa farms, judging chocolate awards, taking part in chocolate events across the world and eating plenty of craft chocolate!

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What is taste with colour?

Chocolate tasting, as a concept, is relatively easy. What’s not always so simple, however, is finding the words for the flavours I am experiencing. Whilst enjoying a bar of chocolate, my mind doesn’t instantly fill with descriptive language and specific tasting notes. Instead I “see” a colour (or colours) related to the flavours. This association of colour and flavour is one example of synesthesia: a phenomenon in which one sense, in this instance, taste, is perceived as if by an additional sense at the same time, such as sight.

Through many chocolate tastings, I have used a variety of tools to help me identify flavours, but nothing which included the use of colour. Although I’m one of just 4% of the population who is synesthetic, I noticed that many other chocolate lovers don’t find it easy to put words to the countless nuances in a bar. Taste With Colour is my chocolate tasting flavour map with 111 different flavour notes that I see and taste so often in fine chocolate. The flavours associated with the colours help tasters put their flavour experiences into words.

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How do you taste with colour?

I designed Taste With Colour to be a simple and approachable tool that anybody can use. You simply place a piece of craft chocolate on your tongue and see what colours come to your mind while the chocolate slowly melts. Then go to the corresponding coloured areas on the map to see which flavours are associated with those colours. Seeing the different notes written down will prompt you to identify some of the subtleties you experience that you might otherwise miss.

For example, if I see a dark red or burgundy colour when I am tasting a piece of chocolate, I head to this coloured area of the map. I see the various flavours associated with this colour (dried cherries, prunes, fig, red wine) and they help me to find the specific flavour I am recognising (ah - it’s fig!).

Sometimes when people are new to chocolate tasting and in a group, they use Taste With Colour and simply point to the areas of the map that resonate with them and the chocolate that they are tasting. People that can identify specific notes immediately can use the different colours as inspiration for deepening their chocolate vocabulary and to be more creative in the way that they describe chocolate.

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Taking Taste With Colour to Thailand I went backpacking around Thailand in 2009 BC (Before Chocolate became such a huge part of my life!). It was one of my favourite trips: stunning beaches, lush tropical rainforests and incredible food. Ever since falling in love with craft chocolate and discovering that Thailand grows its own cocoa, I had always planned to return to discover its cacao and growing craft chocolate scene.

At Salon du Chocolat in Paris, November 2018, I met Paniti and Nuttaya from Kad Kokoa. I found their range of single-origin Thai chocolate absolutely delicious and I shared my excitement to visit Thailand and explore its cacao. We planned for me to do a Taste With Colour workshop for them and their customers in Bangkok and this February that became a reality!

The Taste With Colour Workshop was held at Kad Kokoa’s beautiful chocolate cafe and factory and involved two of my favourite things: tasting and painting.

I translated my flavour map into Thai, even adding a couple of additional flavours unique to Thailand - kaffir lime and Thai basil. The workshop space was prepared with Thai and English maps, paintbrushes, watercolour paints, paper and plenty of amazing craft chocolate.

We began the workshop with a colour-flavour warm-up for those who were not used to tasting chocolate in this way. I named some colours and the tasters shared the flavours that they would associate with those colours.

Generally, the flavours associated with the colours had the same colours in their natural form such as, brown for earthy, yellow for honey or green for grassy. Interestingly, we found one exception to this is vanilla. Vanilla in its (final) natural form is black. However, it is very delicate and aromatic and often in cream-coloured foods such as vanilla ice cream. Therefore, vanilla is located in the cream-coloured area of the map. We followed this with a brief painting warm-up before the tasting began.

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Three Bars, Unlimited Paintings I chose three of Kad Kokoa’s single-origin bars for us to taste and paint, made with cacao from three different areas of Thailand: Chiang Mai, Prachuap Khiri Khan and Chanthaburi.

Starting with the 70% dark chocolate from Chiang Mai, we tasted the bar with all five senses. Firstly, we inspected our pieces for colour and shine (sight). We listened to the sound of the chocolate as we snapped a piece in half to assess the quality of the temper (hearing). We smelt the aroma of the chocolate after we snapped it in half (smell).

We then experienced taste and touch (and some more smell, again) when we placed a piece of chocolate on our tongues and allowed it to melt (without chewing!). As the chocolate melted, we could feel the texture of the chocolate (touch), the taste (how sweet, sour, salty and bitter it was) and the flavours of the chocolate as they gradually released into the olfactory receptors in our nose and throat. As the chocolate melted, I instructed the tasters to close their eyes, allow the chocolate to communicate with them and see what came to their mind. I then invited them to simply paint whatever it was that they saw.

We found a bright acidity with yellow (butter, lemon, honey), orange (tropical fruit), brown (cocoa, chocolate, earthy) and hints of purple (berries) and green (leafy) flavours in the Chiang Mai bar.

The Prachuap Khiri Khan bar gave me notes of vivid lemon, raspberry and cinnamon, so these are what I painted. Others also tasted some citrus and red fruit and green leafy notes (hence the paintings of trees) as well as hints of brown spice and earthy flavours.

And the colours that we discovered in the Chan-

thaburi bar were more khaki (undergrowth) and brown (earthy) with some yellows and oranges (tropical fruits, including pineapple) and greens (eucalyptus and herbal).

Each of these three bars were made by the same makers, with Thai cacao beans using the same process and recipe, yet they were all distinctly different from one another. This was reflected in the unique colour palettes displayed in the collection of paintings we produced.

The flavours that we found in the chocolates also had a connection with the colours chosen on the packaging. Interestingly, yellow was used on the packaging of the Chiang Mai bar which was a great choice to highlight the bright acidity and other yellow flavours like butter, lemon and honey. Green appears on the packaging of the Prachuap Khiri Khan bar which fitted the leafy green notes we discovered. And, lastly, orange was used on the packaging of the Chanthaburi bar which certainly represents the tropical fruit flavours that we tasted.

Even to those who have a lot of experience, chocolate tasting can sometimes feel intimidating. People often feel nervous to share what they taste in case it is not what everybody else thinks and worry that they might look silly. In my workshops, I emphasise that we all taste things in our own way and that we all have individual “flavour libraries.” We create flavour libraries from all of the different tasting experiences that we have had in our lives. There are no right or wrong answers when it comes to taste; what you taste is what you taste! Tasting is a personal experience and it is always fun to share and compare experiences with others. During tastings, I often find that people discover similar flavour notes or a similar collection of “colours.” Sometimes, though, two paintings of the same chocolate can look completely different from one another. I find this fascinating and it is a great reminder that no two people will taste the exact same thing.

Chocolate and Beyond The concept of Taste With Colour can translate to lots of other foods and drinks beyond chocolate.

I have used it during coffee tastings and the same principle applies: see what colours come to your mind during a tasting, then head to that area of the map to see the flavours written down which will then prompt you. Coffee tasting is quite a different experience from tasting chocolate. Since coffee is liquid, it is consumed far more quickly than a piece of chocolate which melts slowly in the mouth.

I usually experience a quick rush of colours in my mind versus the slow evolving journey with chocolate. I can easily capture a couple of colours and head to those areas of the map. I zone in on each colour and see the flavours, taking additional sips of coffee, to focus on a particular colour and capture the flavours that I am experiencing. I have also been using this method to help me identify flavours in wine, and I’m even working on a Taste With Colour map specifically for wine.

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Since its launch in July 2017, Taste With Colour has been sold to over 30 countries and every continent (except for Antarctica!). Workshops have been held so far in the U.K., the U.S.A., the Netherlands, Dubai, Thailand, Spain and Brazil! It has been translated into Brazilian Portuguese, Dutch and Thai and will soon be translated into German, Spanish and French. I am grateful for the warm, universal welcome that Taste With Colour has received and excited to see which country it will take me to next. Watch this space!

And remember, tasting is all about having fun.

For a truly unique tasting experience, you can purchase your very own Taste With Colour map on Hazel’s website at tastewithcolour.com Taste With ColourŽ is a registered trademark.

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meet the maker

Nuttaya

Paniti

Kad Kokoa

Nestled in the heart of Bangkok is an enticing cafe luring in passers-by with a shop sign advertising Thai single-origin chocolate. Look behind the counter full of stunning patisseries and you might just catch the founders, Paniti and Nuttaya, in action.

Ask them about their story and you’ll be in for a treat as their bean-to-bar adventure takes you on their motorbike journeys through the countryside of Thailand, past ancient temples and into forests of jackfruit, coconuts and mangosteens. This is the story of Kad Kokoa.

The Chocolate Making Lawyers

Paniti and Nuttaya weren’t always chocolate makers, in fact, the couple behind Kad Kokoa are still practising lawyers. Working as attorneys in busy Bangkok, they felt a desire for change and one day decided to take off on their motorbikes in search of a new adventure - and adventure was exactly what they found.

Fascinated by the many royal projects they witnessed throughout the north of Thailand they decided they wanted to do something meaningful and tangible with their countries soil.

They quickly fell in love with the Thai countryside, farm-fresh, slow food and the escape from

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city life and made a life-changing decision to buy a fig farm in Chiang Mai. However, with a little persuasion and a love of chocolate, they decided to grow cacao on their land instead.

They were saddened to learn that Thai grown cacao had fallen from the map in recent decades, farmers opting instead to grow rubber or palm. Dedicated to the cause of resurrecting Thai cacao, the couple got to work and planted 400 young cacao trees.

The decision had been made, they would be making chocolate from bean to bar. But there was just one issue. Like most lawyers, they had never made chocolate.

Trainee to Award Winning From the start, their focus has been clear. Rather than creating an extensive range, they would concentrate on simple, high quality and sustainable chocolate which highlights the flavours of the earth it grows from.

However, their mission was not without challenges. Limited by their unpredictable supply of fine cacao, they had to work together with local collectives and farm groups as a social enterprise.

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After weeks of studying at home and preparing herself with knowledge of roasting to tempering, Nuttaya was ready to get stuck in. With the craft chocolate community in Thailand in its infancy, they decided to look a little further afield to get the expert help they needed to master this complex craft. Taking their challenge as seriously as ever, they went from Singapore to Hawaii to San Francisco to learn from the best in the business.

Recipes perfected, Paniti told us how in their modest range they “Try to make chocolate from only two ingredients. Pure single-origin cacao from various terroirs in Thailand and organic sugar,” meaning their bars, have nothing to hide behind - and that’s just how they like it.

Their single-origin range now includes bars from four origins, Chumpon, Chantaburi, Chiang Mai and Prachuap Khiri Khan. Kad Kokoa has always been about giving back to their home country they love so dearly - supporting local farmers and

Soon after opening their doors to the public and launching their chocolate to the world, it became clear their intensive training, dedication and bold decision had worked out. Winning a bronze award for their Chiang Mai bar in the Asia Pacific International Chocolate Awards and Silver for their Chantaburi in the Academy of Chocolate. A huge accomplishment for any new chocolate maker and a major boost to the world of Thai cacao.

Opening their Luxury Chocolate Cafe

from bean to Bacngkok

The more they learnt, the more they began to appreciate the beauty and magic of the cacao they grew. After earning their Bean Grading Certification from the FCCI and learning the process from start to end with the help of Dr. Nat Bletter, they were ready to start making chocolate.

They then worked with designers to craft their brand and finally, Kad Kokoa became a reality.

employing vulnerable minority groups where possible throughout Thailand.

Awards in hand, it didn’t take long for their chocolate cafe to become a popular destination for chocolate lovers and foodies alike. The building has been made using wood from their Chiang Mai plantation, a loving connection to where it all began.

On display, you’ll find an array of exquisitely and indulgent crafted patisseries carefully prepared by their French trained chef.

Who after extensive training at the Ferrandi Paris school, combines traditional techniques with single-origin chocolate to create a true celebration Thai cacao.

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Head of chocolate making is Punnata, who graduated with a 1st Class Honour from the Culinary Arts Academy in Switzerland and has worked with Savelberg and L’Atelier De Joel Tobuchon in Bangkok (both with Michelin stars) - not a team to be reckoned with!

Also on the menu is their best selling range of bonbons, truffles and drinking chocolate, all made with Thai single origin cacao. Don’t leave without trying their specially concocted orangery chocotini or moreish salted caramel.

In their adjoined shop you’ll find the craft chocolate lounge where Nuttaya and the team take appointments for customers to make their own chocolate bars. Whether you’re picking up a bar for yourself or buying a gift, we promise you won’t leave this shop empty-handed.

Nuttaya and Paniti have transformed their cafe and shop into the ultimate chocolate nirvana.

From the potted cacao plants dotted around to the woven baskets filled with ripe pods.

Plan your visit right, and you can join one of the expert tastings or events they run. From painting

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workshops and afternoon teas to their weekly factory tours, you can be sure to leave with a wealth of knowledge, passion and love of Thai cacao.

A Taste of Thailand

from Thailand with love

If like us, you are new to Thai chocolate, then Kad Kokoa is a wonderful place to begin your journey. Kad Kokoa represents the pride of Thai culture - from their bars to their packaging, you feel the Thai spirit in everything they create.

During our last visit, Nuttaya proudly brought our attention to the three gold thumbprints above the shop’s door, meaning it had been blessed by a Buddhist monk upon opening. Then you reach the traditional Thai prints which adorn their packaging, unfold the origami-like case to reveal a tissue paper wrapped bar, each one feeling like a special gift. The unique patterns they use derive from ancient hill tribes in Thailand, who are famous for weaving intricate textiles, and even the bar itself shares their trademark design, which won the Thai Prime Minister Export Award in 2019.

And if all that doesn’t get you dreaming of the land of smiles, they even incorporate Thai flavours into some of their bars, from Thai tamarind to shisho (perilla) seeds. Whether it’s the land their beans grow from, the community they work with or the passion they feel for showing the world Thai chocolate - there is something distinctly

Thai in every taste.

A Bright Future So after conquering the world of law, becoming expert chocolate makers and launching their own business, what’s next for this ambitious power couple? Ever the perfectionist, Nuttaya claims she is still working on crafting her perfect bar while Paniti has one mission: building a new culture of Thai chocolate. They told us how they hope that “by growing sustainable cacao they can prevent Thai cocoa beans from falling into the commodity grade and disappearing from the cacao map ever again.”

We hope you enjoyed meeting Kad Kokoa and hearing how two Thai lawyers are making waves amongst the chocolate scene worldwide. It seems whatever your background, nobody is immune to the temptation of cacao and with determination, focus and a splash of perfectionism there’s nothing you cannot master.

Visit Kad Kokoa at: 1076 Naradhiwat Rajanagarindra Rd, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon, Bangkok 10120, Thailand. www.kadkokoa.co @kadkokoa_chocolate This issue has kindly been sponsored by Kad Kokoa, however, all thoughts and opinions are those of Cacao Magazine.

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Illustration Sarah Chand

Thai inspired chocolate recipe...

White Chocolate and Mango Cheesecake with a Ginger and Sea Salt Base Recipe developed & written by Ruby Willow

Thai food is loved by many for the ingenious way it seems to hit every spot in your mouth at the same time. The way it blends sweet, salty, spicy, and sour flavours - tantalising and tickling your senses. When I sat down to create this recipe, I tried to think of my favourite Thai desserts, and this being Cacao, I searched my brain for something chocolatey.

But when I thought about it, I couldn’t ignore the fact that my favourite thing to eat after a spicy chicken curry is a juicy sliced mango, drenched in lime and served in a bag on the street with a packet of salt and chilli. So that became the inspiration for this silky white chocolate cheesecake, light enough to serve after a feast, bursting with sweet, spicy, salty and sour flavours and like all things Thai - bright and beautiful.

As always, your food is only ever as good as your ingredients. So treat yourself to the best white chocolate you can find, with a percentage of cocoa butter of at least 35% and if juicy mangoes are not in season when you try this out, substitute it for something which is, because what doesn’t go with white chocolate?

Makes: 8 slices

ingredients Base

200g Ginger biscuits 75g Unsalted butter (melted) ½ tsp Flakey sea salt Filling 300g Double cream 300g Cream cheese (full fat) 250g White chocolate Topping 1 large Mango ½ lime (juiced) 1 tbsp icing sugar Garnish 3 Tbsp White Chocolate (grated)

Time: 1 hour, plus 4 hours chilling

method

1.

Crush the ginger biscuits with the end of a rolling pin or in a food

processor and add the melted butter and salt. Mix until combined over a low heat and cover a spring bottom tin. Refrigerate until you have made your filling.

2.

3.

Melt the white chocolate in a bain-marie until smooth then remove from the heat to cool. Mix continuously so it doesn’t set.

Lightly whip the double cream and combine with the cream cheese in a large bowl until smooth. Gently mix in the chocolate and cover the chilled biscuit base. Refrigerate for two hours.

4.

Blend the mango, lime juice and icing sugar in a food processor until smooth. Pour over the cheesecake and leave to set in the fridge for a further two hours.

5.

Garnish with grated white chocolate and remove from the tin to serve.

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Section

Bar From the flavour trends in 2019 to talking all things chocolate with Paul A. Young.

Photography Arnie Chou

The Flavours Soaring and Sinking in 2019

A Chocolate Journalist’s report on the flavours of the year. From floral to fruity, traditional to experimental what has craft chocolate been loving?

Words by Sharon Terenzi

From potato chips to spirulina, chilli pepper, Indian curry and even fish oil, craft chocolate makers add all sorts of ingredients to their creations. Some inclusions had their momentum and then faded away (luckily for us), while others have stood the test of time, but the exciting thing about craft chocolate is there are always new trends emerging.

It’s essential for chocolate professionals to keep experimenting and stay up to date with the latest food news. Not only do chocolate lovers demand to be surprised and entertained, but it’s with innovative inclusions that a chocolate company can demonstrate all its creativity and expertise. Sticking to the same old traditional flavours is not a safe strategy anymore. Flexible assortments, new monthly flavours and limited editions are what keep a craft chocolate brand relevant and modern. If 2018 saw the boom of healthy inclusions like ginger, turmeric, spices and superfoods, let’s have a look at the flavours that are gaining popularity and those that are losing it in the craft chocolate industry in 2019.

Trending Flavours Oat Milk Plant-based milk alternatives have been growing in popularity over the past three years. With a rising demand for dairy-free, vegan chocolate, craft chocolate makers thought hard about which milk alternative would be the best fit, and the winner was soon proclaimed: coconut. Fairly easy to include in chocolate and with a fatty component that confers extra creaminess, coconut seemed to be every maker’s favourite dairy-free milk for the longest time, until now. The problem with coconut in craft chocolate has always been its intense nutty note that interferes with the intrinsic, delicate, natural tasting notes of fine cacao. Far from being a neutral base, every single chocolate bar with this inclusion had a prominent coconut flavour that couldn’t be avoided.

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This has been great news for oat milk. Made from the seeds of the oat plant, this kind of dairy-free alternative lacks that strong nutty note typical of coconut, while bringing the same smoothness to the chocolate without the dairy component. Brands like Goodio Chocolate in Finland, Raaka Chocolate, Map Chocolate and Ritual Chocolate in the US now have Oat Milk chocolate bars in their assortments.

Mocha The term Mocha originated in the 1700s from a variety of coffee beans imported to Europe from Yemen. Nowadays, the name has little to do with the coffee beans. Mocha now refers to any coffee with chocolate flavouring, and it has become a popular drink across the globe, from China to the US. This trend couldn’t possibly pass unnoticed in the fine chocolate industry, and now craft chocolate makers are coming up with their own versions in the form of chocolate bars. Craft chocolate makers are also partnering up with local coffee bean roasters to enhance the quality and transparency of their creations, in a collaboration with mutual benefits between fine-food producers. You can find many remarkable mocha chocolate bars on the market including the ones made by Letter Press Chocolate, Charm School Chocolate, Patric Chocolate and Castronovo Chocolate in the US. Chai With the boom of chai drinks on the market, the chocolate industry couldn’t pass on such a successful trend. Craft chocolate isn’t new to chai chocolate bars, which have been flying off the shelves for the past two years. However, this inclusion is still going strong, as craft chocolate makers have kept these bars stable in their assortments.

The traditional way to make Indian chai is with black tea, heavy milk, a combination of spices and a sweetener. Trying to stay as close as possible to the original recipe, craft chocolate makers are incorporating the typical chai spices (cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg and pepper) in milk or dark chocolate for an entertaining adventure for the palate. Some chai chocolate bars worth trying are from Amazing Cacao from Russia, Villakuyaya from Ecuador, Goodio from Finland and Chocolate Tree from Scotland.

Matcha A traditional Japanese high-grade tea has expanded its popularity into chocolate. With its iconic, vibrant green colour, this finely ground tea is combined with all kinds of dark, milk and white chocolate, as it pairs well with both low and high cacao percentages. As speciality tea and chocolate tastings are becoming increasingly popular, these bars deliver the best of both worlds in just one bite. However, finding the perfect match is not an easy job for craft chocolate makers: lots of trials and errors are necessary to discover the best cacao origins that suit the vegetal and sweet taste of matcha. But once the perfect combination is discovered, chocoholics are in for a delicious, trendy treat. The matcha-chocolate mania has hit all corners of the globe, with bars from Fossa Chocolate in Singapore, Feitoria Do Cacao in Portugal, as well as Letter Press and Raaka Chocolate in the US. National Pride Craft chocolate makers are celebrating their heritage by including national flavours in their creations. Without fear of meeting disagreeing palates, bold and unusual ingredients are making their way into dark, milk and white chocolate to showcase the traditions of specific countries: liquorice in Iceland with Omnom Chocolate, whisky in Scotland with Chocolate Tree, rye bread in Estonia with Chocokoo, guava in Brazil with Mission Chocolate, shiso seeds in Thailand with Kad Kokoa, and so on.

These brave inclusions allow consumers to travel around the world with their chocolate and represent a delicious opportunity to discover foreign flavours and international cuisines.

Gianduja With its magical combination of hazelnuts and cacao, it’s hard to find a chocoholic who doesn’t appreciate gianduja. This is why craft chocolate makers keep recreating this Italian favourite throughout the years, and consumers never seem to get tired of it. This inclusion calls for a simple recipe of roasted hazelnuts, fine cacao and sugar, which are finely ground together to create a silky paste. Not only Italians, but chocolate makers around the world are creating their own person-

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al interpretations of this traditional flavour from Turin: with milk, without milk, dairy-free, with whole hazelnuts included, combined with different cacao origins. From Hogarth Chocolate in New Zealand to Solkiki Chocolatemaker in the UK, but also Chocolate Tree in Scotland, Areté Chocolate in the US and Amedei in Italy, many craft chocolate brands now have a delicious gianduja bar in their assortment collection.

Flavours Losing Popularity Nibs It might be that their edgy texture is not appreciated by everybody, or because they tend to confer even more bitterness to an already dark chocolate bar. Whatever the reason might be, chocolate bars with an inclusion of nibs seem to be losing popularity, as many chocolate makers stopped making them and don’t seem to be releasing new ones any time soon.

Dark Milk Still without an official definition, dark-milk chocolate can be described as milk chocolate with a percentage of cocoa mass greater than 40-50%.

This hybrid had the potential to be a middle ground appreciated by both dark and milk chocolate lovers. But as it turned out, its bittersweet taste didn’t convince enough of either of them in the end.

Citrus Once upon a time, orange and lemon used to be classic flavours to be combined with chocolate because of the contrast between citrus, sweetness and acidity. Nowadays, chocolate bars with these inclusions are hard to find. The use of essential oils for these inclusions often deliver a cheap and chemical taste that is off-putting for many fine palates. Freeze-dried exotic fruits like pineapple and yuzu are now preferred.

entine’s and Mother’s Day gifts, rose and chocolate don’t seem to be such a popular pair throughout the rest of the year. Only limited editions are released, succumbing to other more fashionable floral’s like hibiscus and lavender.

After years of pure, dark chocolate aimed at improving health more than the pleasure of the taste buds, chocoholics now seem to be returning to mouth-watering inclusions. Combining high-quality, fresh and ethical ingredients with creamy textures and satisfying flavours.

Many of these trends originate from popular drinks like matcha, chai and mocha that are booming in consumption worldwide and make equally delicious chocolate bars. The most popular trends in the food industry are also impacting the flavours available on the chocolate market, with dairy-free and vegan alternatives leading the way.

For many, the focus remains on staying as local as possible and creating active communities around the chocolate factory. With inclusions sourced directly from neighbouring suppliers that share the same mission and values of the chocolate makers.

International brands are also bringing more awareness of exotic ingredients by combining their national flavours with their chocolate. These enticing bars are travelling the world to broaden the horizons of adventurous chocoholics.

Although these flavour trends sound exquisite, the mind of a craft chocolate maker never stops exploring and innovating. Who knows what new combinations and extravagant pairings they have planned for us next season?

Sharon Terenzi, also known as The Chocolate Journalist, is exactly that. An authoritative digital voice of the craft chocolate world based in Florence with an award-winning blog and impressive social media following. When she isn’t eating and writing about chocolate, you’ll find her visiting chocolate events and cacao plantations around the world.

Follow her at: TheChocolateJournalist.com

Rose In 2019, few chocolate bars are being made with this delicate inclusion. Although popular for ValBAR | 78

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The Life of a Professional Chocolate Taster WordsbybyMegan MeganGiller Giller Words

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Although my first-grade teacher Mrs. Castle most likely didn’t take me seriously when I told her I planned to make a career out of eating chocolate, I have done exactly that.

I write about my boundless gluttony that the craft chocolate community has been more than happy to indulge. This includes the good folks at the International Chocolate Awards (ICA), who, after being alerted to my gobbling hobby a few years ago, invited me to judge the awards.

The International Chocolate Awards are almost as grand as they sound: Chocolatiers and makers from Texas to Taiwan send their finest chocolate to an independent group of partners in regional locales, who judge in rounds. If a chocolatier, say, wins their regional round, they compete in the international heat against chocolatiers from across the globe. Each judging panel consists of experts as well as chefs, restaurant critics, journal-

ists, and members of the awards’ official Grand Jury.

Chocolate has never felt so serious.

Recently when they summoned me, I perhaps become a tad too excited and pre-gamed with a morning repast of high-percentage bars, graceful wrappers ripped open like a howler monkey’s scream on my kitchen table.

I assumed, having moved to the Center of the World, New York, that the Americas judging would convene just a few steps from my residence, but I realized about 60 minutes from the start of my session that it was transpiring somewhere called Hoboken, New Jersey. Thankfully the tribulations of the PATH train dissolved as soon as I walked into Ultramarinos, one of the several restaurants owned by Maricel Presilla, chocolate expert, ICA awards co-founder, James Beard Award winner, and my all-around hero.

“Come in, my dear,” she

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hummed, her thick Cuban accent as intoxicating as the smell of chocolate wafting through the room.

The tiny, white-walled café overflowed with bright paintings of women clutching cacao pods, Latin American artefacts, and eager chocolate eaters seated at plastic tables folded open for just this occasion.

“What are we tasting today?” I asked Martin Christy, the co-founder of the awards.

“Bonbons,” he replied.

As he spoke the heavens seemed to part — okay, it was the door to the kitchen — and volunteers emerged carrying loaded plates of truffles, caramels, chocolate-covered almonds, and all other sorts of confections.

“Oh, Mrs Castle,” I thought.

“Look at me now.”

But I’d learned from previous years that when a plate

was placed in front of me, it was a faux pas to cram all eight pieces into one’s mouth at once as if playing chubby bunny. First, one must taste the four or five “control” chocolate bars in the centre of the table and take notes about their aroma, flavour, mouthfeel, and so on. For example, you might discern notes of roasted apricot, toasty molasses, and bright thyme in a bar. These scribbles serve as a guide when you’re in the dense forest of dozens of samples. After judging four or five submissions, you’re required to return to the controls: If you can still taste the flavours you discerned originally, you can keep judging. If they’ve changed or you taste just plain chocolate, God forbid, your palate is shot and you’re done for the day.

Sitting next to Maricel, I nibbled and took notes like a good student, then turned my attention to my plate, which held a simple but excellent ganache in a thin shell, a white-chocolate-curry creation,

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dark-chocolate-dipped yuzu, and the ever-present pumpkin spice truffle.

Some of them exceeded my expectations, and even the bad ones were good.

“Except,” as Maricel pointed out, “when you come across something truly offensive.”

And what luck! Even if one of those had not fit into that category, it was time for a palate cleanser. If you’re tasting chocolate for fun, you might use beer or tea or even a plain cracker, but the International Chocolate Awards has standards to uphold, which is why they invest in artisan Italian polenta for the occasion, making sure it’s perfectly lukewarm, completely unseasoned, and unforgivably mushy so that it sandpapers your tongue, removing all sorts of tannins and anything resembling.

“The polenta is quite important,” Maricel said as I took a globby spoonful and held it reluctantly to

my mouth. “I’ve cooked it in hotel kitchens around the world to make sure we have the correct palate cleansers for judging.”

I pictured Maricel charming the maître d’ into letting her enter the kitchen, then commandeering the largest pot in the place to cook polenta for an army of chocolate judges. Apparently, she’d also had quite a few experiences hauling said pot onto public transportation, carrying it up and down subway stairs and balancing it on her knees as the train cars jerked to and fro.

Even her beautiful pronunciation of the word “polenta” — like a mermaid’s tail flickering above the waves — couldn’t make me happy about eating it, though. As I took a tiny mouthful, I noticed another judge across the table making the same face, then crunching on carrots to clear the taste.

Nevertheless, palates cleansed, it was time for more chocolate! As plate

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after plate arrived, the other judges held chocolate close to their noses and sniffed, placed pieces carefully in their mouth and chewed slowly, and then furiously filled out the competition’s extensive online forms.

After several hours of this, my head was spinning like an almond in a panning machine, high on that particular combination of theobromine, caffeine, and sugar that fuels this industry.

“Lunch!” proclaimed Martin, and just in time.

He gestured to the door, where other weak-kneed judges rushed in order to get to yet another of Maricel’s restaurants next door, Zafra. We fell into our appointed chairs and descended upon the crispy plantain chips already set out on the table. If you had told me that this horde of salt-swilling, carnivorous brutes were the same lot that had been so daintily tasting chocolate not 10 minutes before, I wouldn’t have believed you. Except

I was also one of those beastly creatures shovelling ham croquettes and Cubano sandwiches into my mouth with the best of them. Sweet and salty, after all, make the best bedfellows.

As the last of the chorizo disappeared, more strongwilled souls than I stood up to return next door for another round of judging. I shakily rose from my seat, said farewell, and wondered how many hours I’d need to wait before I felt well enough to taste the single-origin bars I had waiting for me at home.

Megan Giller describes herself as a food writer, feminist and chocolate eater.

She’s a chocolate judge, founder of Chocolate Noise, writes for the likes of The New York Times and is a published author. Her book ‘Bean-to-Bar Chocolate: America’s Craft Chocolate Revolution’ has been described as “The definitive guide to American craft chocolate making.” Find out more at: ChocolateNoise.com

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Photography David Nilsen

Craft Cousins: Beer & Chocolate A certified Cicerone’s guide to chocolate.

Words & Photography by David Nilsen Illustrations by Anna Bazyl

While the craft beer movement is a couple decades older than the bean to bar chocolate revolution, the two share a surprising number of similarities. Both combine technical prowess, rich tradition, constant innovation, and soulful creativity to craft indulgent flavour experiences while supporting responsible economic practices. Both worlds have been built by small, eclectic brands that have built relationships both with the growers of their ingredients and the consumers who have made them successful.

And as it turns out, they taste delicious together.

Reasons for Resonance While beer and chocolate may seem worlds apart, there are numerous complementary flavours that allow them to pair harmoniously.

Beer takes its flavour from three main sources: grain, hop flowers, and yeast. When kilned, malted grain can taste like honey, bread, caramel, toffee, raisin, and more. When roasted in much the same way cacao beans often are, they take on flavours of coffee, char, and yes, even chocolate itself. Hops and yeast produce grassy, floral, spicy, and fruity notes. It’s easy to see how combinations of these

flavour influences could find a ready dance partner in chocolate.

The Basics of Pairing When you’re pairing any two types of food and drink, there are a few basic guidelines to follow.

In most cases, you want to make sure you match intensities between the items, but because of the relatively small samples you’ll take of chocolate and beer to make these pairings work (more on that in a minute), this becomes less important here. You have the freedom to focus on flavour compatibility instead, which is the fun part anyway!

It’s important to remember the three Cs of pairing: cut, contrast, and complement. Cutting deals with one item reducing the most intense aspect of the other, but it doesn’t come into play as much with chocolate and beer. Instead, we focus on contrasting—playing two different flavours against each other in enjoyable ways—and complementing— combining two or more flavours that yield a naturally blissful marriage or a lovely, new flavour altogether. We’ll focus on these in the examples below.

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How to Host a Beer & Chocolate Pairing (Even If It’s Just for You) One of the enemies of enjoyable food pairing is palate fatigue. Our senses of taste, touch, and smell, as well as the brains that process those senses together, can all get worn out pretty quickly. It’s best to limit yourself to 4-6 combinations. Along those same lines, use very small samples: no more than a 1” square of each chocolate and 2 oz of each beer. Even if you’re doing this casually, presentation matters, so pour the beer into good tasting glassware (a snifter, tulip, or wine glass), and use an attractive dish for the chocolate.

When it comes time to actually tasting the pairings, here’s what you should do: - Be sure to visually evaluate and appreciate the beer and the chocolate before tasting, taking in the aroma of both.

- When you take a bite of the chocolate, don’t sip the beer immediately, as the cooler liquid will prevent the chocolate from melting properly. Hold the chocolate in your mouth for about 30 seconds first to allow it to really begin to melt and release its aromatics before tasting the beer.

- Take very small sips of beer. The initially harder texture and more delicate flavours of chocolate can be overpowered easily, so adjust your sip amounts until you find the right balance.

- As with any sensory experience, slow down and really pay attention to what your senses, thoughts, emotions, and memories are telling you. Pairings can surprise and delight us in unexpected ways.

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Here are some great combinations to try out:

1. Sweet Stout with

2. Pale Coffee Beer

High Percentage Dark

with Spiced Chocolate

Chocolate

Until recently, most coffee beers were dark styles like porter and stout, which already had some coffee-like flavours from roasted malts, but brewers have begun branching out with their coffee-infused offerings. Pale coffee beers in styles like Kölsch or blonde ale allow the subtle, fresh aromas of coffee to shine. Try pairing one such as Wolf’s Ridge Brewing Clear Sky Daybreak with a spiced chocolate like Indulgence Mayan Spice or Markham & Fitz Ooh La Lavender. The spices will bring out the complexities in the fresh coffee beer, while the chocolate itself provides a flavour foundation to deepen that roast in the otherwise pale beer.

Our first pairing is all about contrast.

Setting the gentle sweetness of a milk or tropical stout against the moderate bitterness and acidity of a higher percentage dark bar allows the flavours of the chocolate to really pop while the sweetness of the beer takes a bit of the edge off. You’ll find the subtle roast of the dark malts complement the roasted cacao beans. Try a dark bar above 70% like Dandelion’s Maya Mountain, Belize, or Costa Esmerelda, Ecuador with Left Hand Brewing Milk Stout or Braxton Dead Blow Tropical Stout.

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3. Hazy IPA with

4. Witbier with White

Acidic, Fruity Dark

Chocolate

Chocolate

Witbier and white chocolate is a match made in heaven. Witbier is a low alcohol Belgian ale brewed with wheat, which gives it a soft, pillowy texture.

The bold Belgian ale yeast offers fruity esters and subtle clove spice, and the style is typically brewed with Curaçao orange peel and coriander. Try a classic example like Allagash White or the Trappist-brewed La Trappe Witte, and either go bold with Castronovo’s sublime Lemon Oil & Lemon Salt-infused white bar, or more subtle with Dormouse Toasted Madagascar White 38%. Either way, the creamy textures and sunny flavours of both partners will sway gracefully to the music.

Gone are the days when IPAs were nothing but bitterness bombs. Brewers are coaxing the juiciest of fruit aromas and flavours from hop flowers now, turning hazy or “New England” IPAs into glasses of tropical wonder.

Pair a mild, low strength example such as Jackie O’s Who Cooks for You? or (if you’re in the UK) Deya Brewing Steady Rolling Man with expressive, fruity bars such as Violet Sky Guatemala 77% Chimelb or Omnom Madagascar 66%. The berry and floral notes in the chocolate will find the perfect soft reflector in the fluffy IPAs, like kids jumping on a bed.

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6. Wedded Bliss

5. Dubbel with Creamy Dark Milk

Want a perfect one-off pairing? Brewery Ommegang recently brewed a limited run of Beekman 1802 Goat Milk Stout, which has aromas of milk chocolate and coffee with cream, and an underlying warmth that brings to mind flannel and hay. There’s a subtle sweetness and a whisper of warm, comforting funk. Pair this beer with Patric The Salty Cow, one of the silkiest milk chocolate bars I’ve ever experienced, and one that has its own subtle, earthy funk from the presence of sea salt. Together they make their own Pinterest board of cozy, rustic refinement, and would make a sublime accompaniment to the world’s most contemplative hayride.

Chocolate Pairing a Belgian Abbey Dubbel with a good dark milk chocolate bar allows for one of the most luxurious flavour journeys in this entire endeavor. Take a decadent but refined Dubbel such as Chimay Premiere or Maredsous Brune, both rich with notes of dried fruit and caramel, and pair it with smooth bars such as Areté Guatemala Lachua 58% Dark Milk or Fruition Marañón Canyon Dark Milk. The caramel notes in both will call to each other, while the taste of dried fruit and subtle yeast spice in the monastic Dubbel will coax subtleties from the cacao. And don’t get me started on these velvety textures together…

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Go Forth and Pair Chocolate with Beer We’ve barely scratched the surface here, but you get the idea. These two artisan products with such complex and robust histories are beautiful matches for each other. Gather some friends (or just yourself) and taste through some bars and beers. Experiment. Take notes. And let me (@davidnilsenbeer) know how it goes!

David Nilsen is a beer journalist and educator living near Dayton, Ohio. He’s a Certified Cicerone who leads beer tastings & pairing events, and his beer writing appears in numerous food & beer publications. He’s a National Book Critics Circle & North American Guild of Beer Writers member, and his writing was recently awarded by the NAGBW. You can find him online at davidnilsenbeer.com

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Illustration Sarah Chand

a recipe by Paul A. Young...

Slightly Sea Salted Single Origin Truffles I still remember the first chocolate truffles I made which got me hooked on fine quality chocolate, the textures making me want to eat more and create more. They are no more complicated now than they were then and that’s how it should be. It’s the quality of chocolate and ingredients used that shine and make these easy truffles a great starting point for anyone breaking into making chocolates.

Feel free to adapt the recipe, add your favourite spices, nuts or dried fruits but keep it natural and pure.

Avoid artificial flavourings and think fresh and seasonal. Use your creativity and play with the different origins and, mix them up, jumble them together and create your own unique flavour profiles.

The chocolates I’ve chosen are just guidelines so use your favourite couverture.

ingredients 100ml Double cream 150ml Water or other water-based liquid (earl grey or mint tea, coffee, red wine, etc) 75g Unrefined golden caster sugar 8g Flakey sea salt 200g Single-origin Madagascan chocolate (64% to 70%) 325g Single-origin Dominican Republic chocolate (65%) 25g Cocoa powder (for rolling) Makes: approx. 75 truffles

1.

2.

3.

Time: 1 hour, plus 4 hours chilling

to make the ganache...

1.

Chop the two chocolates into small, even-sized pieces and place in a bowl until step three.

to make the truffels...

Scoop even-sized nuggets of ganache with a teaspoon and using cocoa powder dusted fingers (to prevent sticking) roll them into smooth balls.

In a saucepan, bring the cream, water, sugar and salt to the simmer and remove from the

2.

Hand roll your truffles in a thin layer of tempered chocolate and allow to set before repeating and immediately rolling in cocoa powder, for the classic truffle finish.

heat.

Pour over the bowl of chocolate and shake.

Whisk together until smooth and glossy then refrigerate for two hours.

3.

You can store your truffles in the fridge for up to two weeks in an airtight container but remember to serve at room temperature for the best flavour and texture.

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Behind The Doors of a Chocolate Shop A behind the doors look at one of England’s most renowned chocolatiers and what it takes to turn beans into bonbons.

Words by Sarit Henig

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For many people, there’s no job in the world more desirable than making chocolate. Visions of Umpa-lumpas, chocolate rivers and romantic shops might fill your mind but considering how much chocolate we get through, we often don’t know much about who or where it comes from. The craft chocolate community talks a lot about the wonderful people who make bean to bar chocolate for us to devour, and rightly so.

Today, however, we’re shining a light on the ones who turn said bars into bonbons, and so much more.

We’re going to discuss the differences between making chocolate and making chocolates, and dive deeper into the sweet-smelling world of a chocolatier.

Chocolate Makers Chocolate makers source beans and transform them into chocolate bars. They must understand the range of genetic cacao varieties, evaluate different cacao origins, and manage the process from bean to bar. Many chocolate makers sell primarily through wholesale distribution

but some larger brands run their own shops. Marou, Domori and Bonnat are all examples of chocolate makers who make excellent bean to bar chocolate.

Chocolatiers Chocolatiers start where chocolate makers stop: they buy fine chocolate from these makers and transform it into a unique range of confectionery. Chocolatiers must master the art and chemistry of tempering chocolate, preparing fillings and intricate decorations, and packaging delicate confections. They might begin their careers as a pastry chef or train under a master chocolatier. Some chocolatiers have their own shops or cafes where customers can try their products ranging from confections to pastries. Great examples of chocolatiers include Jacques Genin and Confiserie Sprüngli.

Most chocolatiers buy chocolate instead of making their own as it can be a more efficient use of time and resources. This allows them to focus on their craft - in the same way a baker doesn’t generally mill their own flour.

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Chocolatiers select suppliers as strategic partners based on their range of products and supply chain management. La Maison du Chocolat highlights their almost exclusive partnership with Valrhona (both from France), one of the leading premium suppliers for global chocolatiers. La Maison du Chocolat’s work with Valrhona is “part of the strategy of long-term partnerships with the producers” that addresses social, economic, and environmental impact.

Bean to Bonbon There are also chocolatiers that source cacao to make their own chocolate or manage blended business models, where they buy and make chocolate based on what works best for their different ranges. The owner of Läderach in Switzerland describes why they manufacture their own chocolate: “By building our own chocolate factory, we aimed to gain control over every stage of production – ideally all the way from cacao tree to counter...We now know exactly what we’re looking for in cultivation areas: firstly, suitable cacao types that

are of the highest quality, and secondly, people who fit in well with our chocolate family because they are reliable and take a sustainable approach...In this way, we work together to create something new.”

The Global Chocolate Map These sectors of the chocolate industry have also evolved differently across geographies. The bean-to-bar space in the US has grown exponentially over the past decade, while the European chocolate community remains focused on confections. Across both continents, most chocolatiers’ offerings reflect classic European recipes and styles.

French or Francophone schools remain the top places for aspiring chocolate makers or chocolatiers to train. Popular institutions include Cordon Bleu and brand-led schools such as those operated by Valrhona and Callebaut.

As the industry expands globally, more and more chocolatiers are building on tradition and

innovating with their local culinary tastes. Ika Chocolate’s (Israel) za’atar-flavoured pralines won awards at the International Chocolate Awards from 20142016 and Le Chocolat de H (Japan) has been recognized by the guide ‘des Croqueurs de Chocolat’ for chocolates fusing Japanese and French cultures. Paul A. Young (UK) is famous for mixing his chocolate with uniquely British flavours such as marmite.

Over to You So what should you as a consumer consider when buying chocolate or chocolates? Look for details that reflect the brand’s distinct expertise. A high-quality chocolate maker should list a bar’s cacao percentage and the origin of its beans on its packaging. The brand’s website should have transparent information about their supply chain and support for sustainable labour and environmental practices.

A chocolatier will highlight flavours and fillings and invest in presentation, although they may also note cacao origins and percentages on packaging or even name chocolate makers with

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which they partner. Brands that have won industry awards (such as the Academy of Chocolate, the International Chocolate Awards, or the Good Food Awards) may also have these stickers on their packaging, whether they are chocolate makers or chocolatiers.

Hopefully this will help you understand the nuances of making chocolate or chocolates next time you read about a new brand. When you go shopping, talk to salespeople and check out brand’s online channels for insight on how they make and source their products. Don’t hesitate to ask for samples and explore new flavours. And most importantly, buy what you love.

Sarit Henig is a digital strategy and sustainability consultant based in California. She’s worked in the US, Israel, and Europe with retail and consumer goods startups. Her experiences and passion for cacao have taken her around the world from the Caribbean to Southeast Asia and she is excited to see how this sector continues to evolve. Connect with her on IG @cocoanabber.

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Bean to Bonbon with Paul A. Young Interview by Sarit Henig

Paul A. Young is a chocolate celebrity; making regular TV appearances and well known for being one of Europe’s top chocolatiers. His sea-salted caramel chocolates won Gold at the Academy of Chocolate 2005 competition (the first UK brand to win in this category) and today, he operates three shops across London with a long list of awards.

I had the pleasure of interviewing Paul to learn about his life as a chocolatier, building his brand to what it is today and his vision for the future.

Our conversation has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Let’s start from the beginning. Where did you start and how did your brand develop?

Paul: I started out as a restaurant pastry chef and then went into retail, developing meals for M&S and Sainsbury’s to learn about the food business at scale. Then I went back to being a pastry chef and started appearing on live television shows. I was being asked to make chocolates and getting a lot of questions about recommendations, so I decided to develop my own products and ended up specializing in this. My PR agent suggested I enter the Academy of Chocolate awards in 2005, and my sea-salted caramels won gold. I opened my first shop and fully launched in 2006.

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Wow, and thirteen years later you are still going from strength to strength. How do you continue to stay true to your vision and respond to customer demands?

Paul: For me, it is important to keep my chocolates pure and natural with no preservatives or artificial ingredients.

My customer base is split—some look for classic, nostalgic styles and others want cutting-edge, daring, single-origin chocolates. Customers are vocal about what they like and what they want, and in London especially there are short and snappy trends. I try to keep ahead of trends but not scroll social media too much to look at what other chocolatiers are doing.

I want to stay true to my ethos of being innovative and quirky but approachable. I deliver the classics exceptionally well and add unique flavour combinations to create chocolates that spark conversation and give people a reason to talk about my brand. I manage my product selection like a restaurant menu and regularly offer new products with seasonal ingredients.

What couverture chocolate do you use to make your confections and how do you select suppliers?

Paul: I’m the UK ambassador for Guittard and have been working with them for over two years. I decided to partner with this brand because it is family-run, transparent, and sustainable. When I shifted production to Guittard, it took 18 months to redevelop my recipes with new origins. I also use a bit of Valrhona and British craft chocolate brands Duffy and Firetree. In total, I use 23 varieties to create my chocolates. Few chocolatiers use so many varieties but I love the alchemy of blending flavours, especially since fine-flavour cacao delivers so much and no single grower can cover every flavour profile.

Have you ever wanted to make your own couverture chocolate?

Paul: I bought a small grinder and some beans in 2012 and played around with making chocolate, but others do it so well there is no point in my getting involved at that level.

I’d potentially be spread too thin making chocolate and confections—especially since I use so many cacao varieties. Today, I can choose from craft or larger chocolate

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suppliers who are truly bean-to-bar experts. I like to support craft chocolate makers because they know the value of paying growers well. They buy intelligently and invest in sustainability to get a steady supply of quality beans. I partner with these brands to connect myself to the growers as much as possible.

What level of transparency do you give customers? How do you talk about the distinctions between making chocolate or making chocolates?

Paul: I do a lot of television and PR to be honest and transparent. I make it very clear that I make chocolates not chocolate and explain how I work with suppliers and with seasonal ingredients. We list our producers’ names and bean varieties on product packaging and share how our chocolates are made. I still eat a lot of confectionery and support commercial brands as well as small makers—in addition to using Duffy couverture, I sell Duffy bars in my stores to help them reach more customers.

What is your perspective on the expansion of bean-to-bar chocolate compared to confectionery?

Paul: Bean-to-bar is seen as a new culture of chocolate and its growth has paralleled the rise of coffee culture.

A “hipster” lifestyle has developed around bean-to-bar—a rustic open kitchen, geeky technical equipment, and hands-on, gritty transformation of raw cacao into something entirely new. Chocolate makers that spent the time training, sourcing, and testing products are doing well because customers see their effort, quality, and brand story.

Chocolate confectionery has a creative, theatrical, and refined flair with a classical or continental perception. It is seen as a more difficult and less approachable skill to master and there is a lot of mystery around the hidden kitchen and secret recipes. A chocolatier’s training is very long and the work environment must be tightly managed.

On an industry level, bean-to-bar is growing much faster than confectionery chocolate. Globally there are some brands that make both bars and confections, but most of these started out producing bars and then developed confections to increase revenues. I talk to a lot of people who want to get into chocolate but it is especially diffi-

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cult on the craft level since it is labor-intensive with high start-up costs. But even the small brands are helping to grow the overall industry and I don’t worry about competitors because we are each doing something different.

How do you educate customers about your products?

Paul: I was doing a lot of customer education when I started out 14 years ago. Today, customers are more educated and ask the right questions. When new customers walk into our stores, we introduce them to signature chocolates that represent our vision and help them get to know our brand’s personality. My teams share details about our chocolates and beans and give samples so customers can see what they like and understand the flavours and textures.

We explain that we manufacture on-site with seasonal ingredients and no preservatives, and we discuss the nuances of why some items may or may not be available.

If customers request products we can’t deliver based on seasonality—fresh chocolate-dipped strawberries in winter, for example—we guide them to an alternative so they have the best experience possible.

In general, if someone wants to explore chocolate beyond commercial brands, the best thing to do is to taste new varieties and not buy the same thing every time. Even at the grocery store you can try different things, read the information on the packaging, and look for varied flavour notes.

From your perspective, what is the UK’s unique point of view in chocolate relative to the rest of Europe? What are the trends you see?

Paul: In the 1970’s through the 90’s, most of what British consumers had access to was continental-style chocolates with milky, sweet centers and no single origin blends or unusual varieties. Today, British chocolatiers are much more innovative and playful with ingredients, form, and shape. Continental European chocolatiers tend to focus on delivering classic recipes very well year after year. In the UK, I see customers buying chocolate for others or as a treat for themselves, and in France it seems like people eat chocolate more as a part of their daily diet. Americans are very excited about different flavours and textures, and the US businesspeople that come to my shops in London are very passionate about my new products.

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Nostalgia is a big trend around the world—everyone loves flavours that remind them of comfort and indulgence. But nostalgia has a different meaning for each person, and if something goes out of fashion food-wise there is always scope to bring it back based on age group trends. Some of my customers who have been buying for 14 years say the brownie or chocolate-orange products are nostalgic because they connect with their childhoods. This is tricky because you can’t tap into everyone’s memories, but you try to adapt your products and change periodically.

What are your goals for your brand looking ahead?

Paul: My vision for my brand is to keep doing what we do now—to stay true to our core values, keep having fun, and continue our focus on product innovation, chocolatier training, and sustainability. This includes having eco-friendly packaging across the business and supporting small producers and growers as much as we can.

Overall, I’m encouraged by customers’ curiosity in how food is made, confidence to try new flavours, and willingness to pay for quality. Today’s customers want to buy into a brand, a lifestyle, or an idea. When they shop, they want to get to know the personality of the product and the creator behind it. People seek out seasonal or local ingredients as well as vegan chocolates. We’ve always made dairy-free products and now we clearly label them in stores. Most of our ingredients are sweet and indulgent but when we use herbs or fruits, people ask about their origin story.

Customers today understand they need to pay higher prices for quality and are more concerned about what they’re eating, and even commercial products are getting smaller and more expensive. People also ask questions about child labour or human trafficking in commodities thanks to the Academy of Chocolate and other organizations raising awareness about these issues. Once a multinational company makes major commitments to sustainability, we’ll see significant changes across the industry.

We’ll be able to eliminate mixed messages about what people should be eating and how much they should pay for ethical production, and new customers will understand more about what I’m trying to do with my products.

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