19 minute read

A GARDEN PLAN

A Garden Planning Consideration for 2022

By Steve Upson

The 2022 gardening season is only a few weeks away. Whether you have an existing garden or are new to gardening, proper planning is key to being successful. While my comments focus more on the needs of the home or hobby gardener, the small market gardener will also find this information helpful. While there are many things to consider when planning a garden the following considerations are key to this process. Site evaluation - A thorough site evaluation includes consideration of the soil, slope, exposure and existing vegetation. Not all properties are created equal. This is especially true when considering the soil resource. Deep, well drained loamy soils are typically the exception and not the rule in Oklahoma. Many prairie soils have a loamy surface layer underlain with a clay subsoil or compacted plow layer causing them to be poorly drained. The natural inclination is to incorporate massive amounts of sand, gypsum and compost in order to improve internal drainage. While this approach can be effective if a sufficient amendment volume is used, the improvement in drainage is achieved not so much a result of the incorporation process but from increasing the elevation of the garden. Because elevation is the key to increasing drainage in poorly drained soils, a better choice would be to construct raised beds. If your garden site is blessed with several inches of loamy top soil, use a shovel or a tiller equipped with a hiller/furrower or bed making attachment to form temporary beds. If your garden soil has a high clay content save yourself a lot of frustration by constructing permanent raised beds. You will need to locate a source of loamy topsoil to fill the beds. While the cost of constructing permanent raised beds is an issue, the advantages they provide far exceed the disadvantages over the long term. For more information on the construction and use of raised beds in gardening go to raised-bed-gardening-hla-6033.pdf (okstate.edu). Garden plots installed on sloped sites are susceptible to erosion. This is especially true on sandy sites. In actuality a slight slope is beneficial as it can aid in

surface drainage. If you are experiencing soil erosion in your garden or if an excessively sloped site is all that is available for your use, consider the following. The most common practice involves installing a series of level benches or growing pads. The sloped areas between the benches should be covered with a perennial ground cover such a bermudagrass. On extremely sloped sites, retaining walls may need to be installed. Used railroad ties are commonly used to construct retaining walls. Standard tillage practices can be used on the newly formed benches or if desired, raised beds can be installed. Often gardens are not capable of producing at their full potential due to excessive shading and wind. In an urban setting where trees are plentiful, vegetable plants cannot flourish due to excessive shading. This is especially true with fruit bearing vegetables such as squash and tomato. Most experts recommend a minimum of six hours of sunlight for summer gardenGen 1:29 29 Then God said, “I give you every seed-bearing plant on the face of the whole earth and ing. In Oklahoma, due to high temperature induced stress, late afternoon shading can be benefievery tree that has fruit with seed in it. They cial. Consequently, when poswill be yours for food. sible, gardens should be located on the east side of a building or tree row. Removing crowded trees, thinning branches and/or removing low hanging limbs can also reduce shading. Trees not only compete with the vegetable garden for sunlight but also for nutrients and water. Trees and vegetable gardens can coexist as neighbors but a good relationship can only be maintained with adequate spacing. If Chicago is the “Windy City”, Oklahoma is the “Windy State.” Strong winds accompanying thunderstorms and alternating warm and cold fronts during late winter and spring are common occurrences. If wind damage to your garden is a common occurrence or if you plan on establishing a garden on an exposed site, consider installing a windbreak. Planting a shelterbelt is a long-term option. Fencing can be installed for immediate results. When installing a windbreak, the objective is not to eliminate air movement but to reduce it to a level that is not stressful on plants. Moderate air movement in the garden reduces plant disease pressure and improves working conditions.

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There are many wind break fencing options available. Plastic mesh fencing is a relatively low-cost option to purchase and install. If deer and other wildlife present a problem take this into consideration when installing fencing. A dual-purpose fence can address both wind and wildlife issues. Ideally, all perennial weeds should be removed from the garden site prior to planting. The biggest offender on most new sites in Oklahoma is bermudagrass. The quickest, most cost-effective method for controlling bermudagrass is herbicide (glyphosate) application during the growing season. The only chemical control options for the coming spring consist of (1) a glyphosate application made to the grass once growth is initiated which means getting a late start on planting your garden or (2) a selective grass herbicide application such as Poast or Select made to an established garden. If you are opposed to using herbicides to control bermudagrass consider installing heavy weight weed barrier fabric over the garden site and confine production to containers for a minimum of one growing season. There is no need to disturb the Bermuda sod prior to installing the weed barrier. Allowing the weed barrier to remain in place for one growing season will effectively control bermudagrass. The weed barrier can be removed following the first killing freeze or in October to accommodate planting a fall cover crop. If you chose the container option you will need to account for the additional cost of purchasing potting soil as containers will not drain properly when filled with top (field) soil. For more information on container gardening go to container-gardening-hla-6458.pdf (okstate.edu). For a list of container and raised bed options including a few novel designs incorporating the use of scrap tires, go to Backyard Demonstration Gardens — Oklahoma Gardening (okstate.edu). Irrigation - High level gardening in Oklahoma is impossible without irrigation. Determining the amount of water available for irrigation and the quality of the water is an important component of garden planning. Most residential water meters are capable of supplying a sufficient volume of water to meet the requirement of backyard size gardens. In residential neighborhoods, water pressure is seldom an issue especially when using drip irrigation. Generally speaking, if the water is suitable for drinking it is suitable for irrigation. The possible exception is pH. Some municipal water supplies are very alkaline in reaction (high pH) and could present a problem when used to irrigate a container garden. If you suspect a problem submit a water sample to your local county OSU Extension Office for testing.

A few additional irrigation related things to keep in mind during the planning process. All municipal water sources, city and rural, are subject to rationing during drought. During severe drought outdoor watering may be limited to only once or twice a week. Do you have access to another water source? Also, consider the cost of water if you plan on using a municipal source to irrigate a large home garden or market garden. During the summer months a producing garden requires a minimum of one acre inch per week which is equivalent to 27,000 gallons per irrigated acre. Municipal water rates range from $4.00-$10.00 per 1000 gallons. Using an average rate of $7.00/1000 gallons expect a $189.00 weekly water bill for each acre irrigated. If you live in an area with an abundant source of good quality ground water a water well is your best option for sourcing water for irrigation. In some areas, sufficient quantities of water are located too deep to be economical. As a rule of thumb, a well needs to yield a minimum of five gallons per minute per acre (5 gpm/ acre). Ground water can vary greatly in quality so be sure and submit a sample for testing. In rural areas surface water sources are often used for irrigation. If you are considering using a pond as a water source, keep in mind that you will need to compensate for the water lost from the pond due to evaporation. If you plan on irrigating from a stream, you will first need to obtain a water use permit from the Oklahoma Water Resources Board, http://www. owrb.ok.gov. Surface water will need to be filtered to remove biological matter before use in both sprinkler and drip irrigation systems. For more information on planning and installing a drip irrigation system go to drip-irrigation-systemsbae-1511.pdf (okstate.edu). Soil testing and preparation - Winter is a great time to collect a soil sample and submit to your local county OSU Extension Office for testing. Soil testing is the only accurate method for determining the plant available nutrient status of your garden soil. A core or slice of soil from the surface to a depth of six inches should be taken at random from 15-20 locations around the garden and combined into one composite sample. The soil testing lab will send the results back to you with fertilizer recommendations. If you are container gardening and using a soilless growing medium (potting soil), sample the containers separately. For additional information on soil sampling go to soil-testing-the-right-first-step-l-249.pdf (okstate.edu). Several weeks prior to planting, shred the cover crop and incorporate into the soil. Don’t delay this pro-

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cedure as time is needed for the biomass to breakdown. Crop debris present on the soil surface will impede the use of a push planter so do a good job of incorporating the plant residue. When incorporating residue, best results can be achieved using a turning plow or rotary plow. A garden spade or fork is recommended when working small areas or individual beds. The entire process is more efficient when soil is moist (not wet) so be prepared to irrigate if required. Continuous use of a plow, disc harrow or tiller at the same depth over a period of years can lead to the formation of a plow pan, a compacted layer of soil that forms just below the depth of the tillage equipment. This compacted zone impedes the downward movement of water, oxygen and roots into the soil effectively limiting the cropping potential of the site. To remedy this condition, use a broad fork on small jobs and a chisel plow on larger jobs. To be effective the tines must penetrate the soil to a depth several inches below the pan in order to effectively fracture the compacted layer. Plan on fracturing the soil during the winter months prior to seed bed preparation. Your soil test report will indicate any nutrient deficiencies and the recommended types and rates of synthetic fertilizer to apply. If you choose to apply only organic or natural materials, request your Extension agricultural educator adjust the rate based on the material applied. Typically, when using synthetic fertilizer, all of the recommended phosphorous and potassium and less than half of the nitrogen is incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The nitrogen rate is reduced in order to limit the amount of vegetative growth which can occur at the expense of fruiting. Most organic fertilizer sources such as compost or composted manure are low in nutrient content and are slow release so expect to apply a greater volume compared to synthetic sources. As with synthetic fertilizer, all or a majority of the recommended

rate should be incorporated prior to planting. Expect to apply supplemental nitrogen, whether synthetic or organic, during the growing season as the crop matures. Fertilizer may be broadcast applied and incorporated just prior to seed bed preparation. Concentrating fertilizer in the plant row or bed insures a more efficient use of nutrients. Consider applying synthetic fertilizer in a continuous band two inches to the side and two inches below the seed or plant row. When forming temporary beds consider incorporating fertilizer into the beds at formation. For more information on planning your vegetable garden including information on recommended planting dates and amount to plant based on the size of your family, go to https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/

print-publications/hla/oklahoma-garden-planning-

guide-hla-6004.pdf. For a list of vegetable varieties recommended for Oklahoma go to https://extension.

okstate.edu/fact-sheets/print-publications/hla/vegetable-varieties-forthe-home-gardenin-oklahoma-

hla-6032.pdf. In this article I’ve listed several considerations that are key to the garden planning process. Someone once said that failing to plan is planning to fail. This definitely applies to Oklahoma gardenRaise It Up: Raised beds can be created out of a variety of ing. Best wishes for materials. Whether your using reclaimed tires or new lumber raised beds are ideal for vegetable gardens. Photo Submitted By: Steve Swigert a successful garden in 2022! Steve Upson, a native of Tulsa, Oklahoma, received a bachelor’s degree in horticulture from Oklahoma State University and a master’s degree in horticulture from Kansas State University. Past employment includes serving as a county and district horticulture agent with the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service and as manager of a commercial market garden operation east of Kansas City, Missouri. Steve recently retired from the Noble Research Institute in Ardmore, OK where he was employed as a Horticulture consultant for the past 34 years.

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