T HE R E SPO N SI B L E & SU STA I NA B L E
SOU RC IN G
Nº 02
PUBLISHED AFTER BREAKFAST • JAN-APRIL 2021
TEXTIL E
.RAWASSEMBLY.
M AG A Z I NE
T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
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O n t he c o v e r Ra wA s s e m b l y ’ s s e c o nd e d i ti o n c o ve r i mage by H& M Fo undati o n f e a t ur e s W a l d e n L a m ( l e f t) c o -f o unde r o f 3D bo dy-sc an j e ans c o m p a ny U ns p un a nd C é dri c Vanho e c k ( ri ght) f o unde r o f Re so rte c s a n i nno v a t i o ns c o m p a ny de ve l o pi ng a smart sti tc h he at di sso l vabl e t hr e a d t ha t a i d s g a r m e nt di sasse mbl y f o r re pai r and re c yc l i ng. W a l d e n a nd C é d r i c a r e m aki ng a path and wal ki ng o n i t as trai l bl az e rs wi t hi n t he f a s hi o n a nd t e xti l e i ndustry e ac h i n the i r o wn ri ght. B o th G l o b a l C ha ng e A wa r d W i n ne rs and Fashi o n f o r Go o d Ac c e l e rato r p r o g r a m m e a l um ni , U ns p u n and Re so rte c s have sho wc ase d the val ue a nd i m p o r t a nc e o f i nd us t ry c o l l abo rati o n thro ugh the i r o ngo i ng p a r t ne r s hi p whi c h f i r s t r esul te d i n ‘ Re bi rth: di gi tal f i t di sso l vabl e t hr e a d j e a ns ’ i n 2 0 1 9 . T he re bi rth j e ans whi c h are he l d by bo th W a l d e n a nd C é d r i c i n t he c o ve r i mage have be e n c al c ul ate d to re duc e C O 2 e m i s s i o ns up t o 5 0 % c o mpare d to the pro duc ti o n and di spo sal o f a t r a d i t i o na l p a i r o f j e a ns . I ns i d e t hi s e d i t i o n y o u wi l l di sc o ve r two i n-de pth i nde pe nde nt i nt e r v i e ws wi t h W a l d e n a n d C e dri c o n the i r re spe c ti ve c o mpani e s, s ha r i ng t o - d a t e t he i r j o ur n e ys and i nte nti o ns f o r the f uture o f the f a s hi o n i nd us t r y a nd he a l t h o f o ur pl ane t. T o d i s c o v e r t he i nt e r v i e ws, turn to page 20 to re ad abo ut Unspun a nd p a g e 2 6 t o r e a d a b o u t Re so rte c s. As we l l as, l e arn abo ut Unspun a nd Re s o r t e c s m o s t r e c e n t partne rshi p l aunc hi ng the ‘ Ge ne si s’ j e ans d e v e l o p e d i n l i ne wi t h t he Je an Re de si gn gui de l i ne s o n page 44 W e ho p e y o u a r e i ns p i r e d wi th o pti mi sm f o r the f uture as we are by b o t h f o und i ng e nt r e p r e ne urs Wal de n and C é dri c , and the i r i nc re di bl e teams. 2
Hello 2021
JANUARY - APRIL 04 1 0-1 1 14-19
MONDAY MORNING MEETINGS | Editors message CONSCIOUS FASHION & LIFESTYLE NETWORKKERRY BANNIGAN CRADLE-TO-CRADLE CERTIFIED™ - What is Cradle-to-Cradle Certification™| C2C - Introducing Artistic Milliners Crystal Clear 3.0 - C2C Certified partners to help
2 0- 25
DENIM UNSPUN | Unspun
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THE FUTURE THREAD | Resortecs® Game-changer Cédric Vanhoeck, co-founder of Resortecs® talks with us about their heatdissolvable sewing threads, collaborations and exploration of newfound ideas through nonstop research and development to aid repair and recycling of textiles, as well as support progress towards a circular economy.
3 0-3 1
THE WOMEN IN DENIM The Women in Denim is an inclusive network of women championing one another within the denim industry. Sharing knowledge, experiences and support, so together a better industry can emerge for the future.
An in-depth interview with Walden Lam, co-founder of Unspun, a fast-moving fashion tech company who creates custom denim jeans through an on-demand system using 3D body scan technology
RawAssembly spoke with Anne Oudard, a sustainable denim designer and member of The Women in Denim crew to learn more about the strength behind the initiative.
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BUSINESS AS A FORCE FOR GOOD Denim brands and producers become Certified B Corporations, meeting the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose. DENIM DISRUPTORS Highlighting brands, designers, and thought leaders redesigning denim and pushing the boundaries of responsibly produced denim in the global jeans market.
THE JEANS REDESIGN The Jeans Redesign initiative brings together leading fashion brands, manufacturers and fabric
3 Im a ge : Nobody Denim
T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
. R AWASSEMB LY. The RawAssembly Magazine is a must-read media inspiration for everyone interested in responsible, sustainable, and innovative solutions for the fashion & textile industries. The magazine represents an enhanced global resource for sustainable and regenerative fibre growers, yarn & fabric mills, responsible & ethical manufacturers, brands, creative professionals and consumers. The RawAssembly magazine aims to improve and increase its readers' knowledge about sustainability and connect with other sustainable creators. Founded in Australia & London, The RawAssembly Magazine has launched to fill the void for informed, creative and avant-garde readers from industry through to consumers who are passionate and committed to sustainability. Today, we hope the magazine will grow to build a network of sustainably-minded writers, innovators and creative insiders worldwide that want to leave their sustainable mark on a time of unprecedented change and action.
FO LLOW US @ raw.a sse m bl y S I GN U P T O O U R NE W SLETTER www.r a wa s s emb ly.com
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.R AWA S S EMBLY.
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As the pandemic continues to prevent us from travelling, connecting and sourcing in person, some of the leading denim mills and manufacturers have developed their apps allowing them to connect directly with their customers in a whole new way. TRUCKER JACKET | LEVI'S
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DIGITAL FASHION Companies showing the world that clothing does not have to be physical to exist. - The Fabricant - Positive Fibers DIGITAL COMMERCE FASHION
147 148 - 1 4 9
152 - 1 67 154 155 1 5 6 -1 5 7 158 1 6 0 -1 6 1
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DIGITAL & TRACEABLE FASHION Traceability from seed to shelf; helping people make better choices when purchasing clothing in the real world. - Fibretrace - Textile Genisis - Oritain PACKAGING Rethinking our approach and embracing innovative materials and packaging systems that are renewable, reusable, compostable, recyclable and biodegradable. - Plastic-free Packaging Innovations - Reusable Packaging innovations - Plantable packaging - Responsible packaging movement - Protecting our Oceans LIFE BELOW WATER, SDG 14 - Why it Matters To conserve and sustainably use the world's ocean, seas and marine resourcesCOLOUR THEORY BUAISOU Celebrating the history of natural indigo and denim in Japan
O ur magaz i ne i s i nte rac ti ve ; pl e ase c l i c k thro ugh the pages to di sc o ve r mo re c o nte nt. Enj o y!
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T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
CON SCIOUS FA S HI ON A ND LIF ESTYLE N E TWORK Given its global reach, the fashion and lifestyle industries are uniquely positioned to collaborate and engage on the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), in particular on confronting the climate crisis and ensuring a resilient post-pandemic recovery. The Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network is an online platform for industry stakeholders, Governments and NGOs to showcase actions, report progress and share solutions accelerating the sector's contribution to advance the Decade of Action to deliver the SDGs by 2030. The collaborative community of practice aims to inspire innovative ideas, connect industry leaders, enable new partnerships, and enact sustainable change. Registered initiatives will be published publicly and form the basis of periodic analysis and evaluation of how the fashion and lifestyle sectors are driving change and implementation of the SDGs. The network is managed by the Division for Sustainable Development Goals, UN Department of Economic and Social Affairs (DSDG/DESA), the United Nations Office for Partnerships and the Conscious Fashion Campaign. It is a dedicated space for the fashion and lifestyle industries on the “Partnerships for SDGs” – the United Nations’ global registry of voluntary commitments and multi-stakeholder partnerships contributing to the advancement of the SDGs. Registered initiatives should show a concrete contribution to the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals and the objectives of the network, respect the principles of the United Nations and follow the SMART criteria - being Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Resource-based with Time-based deliverables.
J O I N TO DAY w w w .susta in abl edev el opmen t.un . o r g /pa r t ner s hips/ Fashi on Network
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About Conscious Fashion Campaign The Conscious Fashion Campaign, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, creates high-visibility fashion event partnerships to accelerate global industry engagement to advance the Decade of Action to deliver the Sustainable Development Goals by 2030. The campaign educates and mobilizes the fashion sector to action solutions for social, economic, and environmental change.
www.consciousfashioncampaign.com
11 I M A GE: B R ES TO N- KENY A
T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
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MU SEU M OF OLD NIMES , FR A NC E | D ENI M R O O M
THE EA RL I EST USE OF DENIM REFERS TO A SERGE MATERIAL ( A TWILL FABRIC COMMONLY USED IN MILITARY UNIFORMS ) . H ISTORI C A L LY, FA BRI C S WE RE NA M E D A F T E R T H E I R
PLACE OF
O RI G I N
DENIM WAS FIRST MADE IN THE 16TH CENTURY AT A PLACE
CALLED NIMES IN FRANCE. THE NAME ‘DENIM’ COMES FROM THE FRENCH WORDS
‘SERGE DE NIMES’
( FABRIC OF NI M E S ) , WH I C H L AT E R EVOLV E D TO
'DE NIM'
T HE FA BRI C T H E N WA S NOT T HE COTTON DENI M W E
BLEN D O F SI LK A N D WO O L .
KNOW TODAY. I T WA S A TODAY ’S
A L L -COTTON
D E N IM WA S F I RST C RE AT E D IN ENG L A N D A ND L AT E R PERFEC T E D I N AMERICAN
MILLS.
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T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
T h e Women in Denim is an inclusiv e net w o r k o f w o men ch a mp i o n i n g o n e a n other within the denim industry. Sh a r i n g kn o w l ed g e, exp er i en ces a n d s u p por t s o togethe r a be tter industry ca n emerg e f o r t h e f u t u re. Ra w As s em bly s poke w ith Anne Oudard a s u s t a i n a b l e d en i m d es i g n er a n d m e mber of The Women in De nim cre w t o l ea r n mo re a b o u t t h e s t ren g t h b e hind the initiative .
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An n e, ca n y o u t e l l us a b o ut Th e W o m en in D e ni m ? The Wo men in D e ni m i s a commu n ity aime d a t e m p o we r i ng all wo men i n th e de ni m i nd us t r y . It sta r te d w h en i n S e p t e m b e r 2019, L u ci e Germser a nd Sa b ine K ü h ln ( fr o m S p o r t s we a r inter natio n al) o r ga ni s e d a p a ne l d isc u ssio n cal led « T he W o m e n i n Den im » at B lu e zo ne ( t he d e ni m sectio n o f M u n i ch F a b r i c S t a r t tr ad esh o w ). Wo m e n f r o m t he d en im i n d u str y w e r e i nv i t e d o n stage to sh ar e th e i r e x p e r i e nc e . After th e ev en t, t he p a ne l l i s t s car r ie d o n tal k in g a nd t ha t ’ s ho w th e c o mmu n ity w a s b o r n. Wh o h a s been p a rt o f Women in D en im s o f a r?
The
The W o me n in D e ni m g a t he r s a la r ge co mmu n i ty o f wo m e n i n th is i n d u str y. We s t a r t e d a s a gr oup o f in te r n ati o na l c r e a t i v e s , con su l tan ts, mar k e t i ng d i r e c t o r s , p r od u cti o n man ag e r s … a nd a s we gr ew w e als o i nt r o d uc e d tech n ician s an d se a m s t r e s s e s . The co mmu n i ty no w c o v e r s p r etty mu ch al l th e s e c t o r s o f t he indus tr y, fr o m f i b r e s up p l i e r s to gar me n t m a nuf a c t ur e r s an d r e tailer s. W e ’ r e ho p i ng to r epr e se n t al l t he a r e a s a nd p ositi o n s o f th e d e ni m i nd us t r y , all a r o u n d th e gl o be !
W ha t a d v ic e would y ou g iv e t o yo ung fema le professiona ls b e g i nni ng their c a reer in the d e ni m i ndustry ? D e ni m is a ve ry te c hni c al i nd us t r y i nvo l vi ng a wi de range o f m a c hi ne ry, c he mi c al s and al l s o r t s o f c o mpl e x pro c e sse s. It m i g ht l o o k a bi t i nti mi dati ng at f i r s t . My advi c e i s: do n’ t be af rai d t o a s k q u e sti o ns. No o ne i s bo rn k no wi ng what an o z o ne mac hi ne d o e s ! W e’ re a ve ry we l c o mi ng c o m m uni ty and we c o nstantl y l e a r n f r o m e ac h o the r so do n’ t b e s c a r e d to re ac h o ut. H o w c an indiv idua ls lea rn m o re a nd c onnec t with The W o m e n i n Denim? W e ha v e an Instagram ac c o unt @ t h e wo m en in d en im whe re L uc i e i nt ro duc e s ne w me mbe rs o f t he c o m m uni ty and share s ne ws. T he r e i s a l so o ur L i nke dIn gro up whe r e a l l me mbe rs c an po st the i r t ho ug ht s and que sti o ns o r share t he i r l a t e st pro j e c ts. And we ha v e a newsl e tte r whe re I gathe r ne ws o f t he c o mmuni ty. Anyo ne who wo ul d l i ke to subsc ri be to t he ne w sl e tte r i s mo re than we l c o m e to se nd me an e mai l at a nne @ t he wo me ni nde ni m.c o m C a n y o u sha re with us a ny up c o m i n g spea k er sessions o r e ve nts a nnounc ed for The W o m e n i n Denim for 2021?
We had pl ans o f me etin g in Istanbul and i n D haka bu t w e c an’ t re al l y te l l whe n we ’ l l be able to do that… In the me antime, I am wo rki ng o n o rgani si ng on lin e c o nve rsati o ns to brain storm aro und the c hal l e ng es of the de ni m i ndustry. Th ese c o nve rsati o ns wi l l be aimed at ampl i f yi ng wo me n’ s vo i ces an d e nc o urage the i r l e ade rsh ip for shapi ng the f uture o f de n im. I s there a ny thing else you would lik e us to sha re about The W omen in Denim? From y our experienc e or t he influenc e, The W omen in De nim ha s a lrea dy ha d in c hanging the denim industry ? We ’ re sti l l a yo ung c o mmu n ity but si nc e we starte d i t, I’ve met so many f abul o us wo me n ! Even wi tho ut be i ng abl e to meet in pe rso n, we ’ ve be e n s tron gly c o nne c te d o nl i ne . T ri c i a Carey o rgani se d a ve ry i nspi ri ng series o f wo me n c o nve rsati on s as part o f he r tal ks c al l e d « Takin g the te mpe rature o f the den im c o mmuni ty » o n the me dia Blu e L e nz . I am al so ve ry g lad to have me t Any We l l s, f rom th e pl atf o rm « S i mpl y S uzette » , who m I’ ve be e n c o l l aboratin g wi th o n an arti c l e o n poly ester. B e i ng part o f thi s c o mmu n ity has bro ught me stre ngth an d a de e p c o nvi c ti o n that al l togeth er we c an ac hi e ve e ve ryth in g w e ho pe f o r!
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T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
Grow A Pair Gr ow A Pai r i s a @ wa r p _f a c e d e ni m p a p e r pro j e c t cr eated b y UK b as e d d e ni m he a d D unc a n E l dri dge . In c o llab o r ati o n w i t h a r t i s a n d e ni m b r a nd s, waste d en im f ab r ic is r e p ur p o s e d i nt o p a p e r usi ng tr ad i tio n al h an dm a d e p a p e r t e c hni q ues that Eldr id ge h o p es to p r e s e r v e f o r f ut ur e g e ne rati o ns. Text is p r i n te d o n t o t he p a p e r t hr o ug h t r a di ti o nal lette r p r ess tech ni q ue us i ng ha nd c ut wo od type , h owev er f o r th e G r o w A P a i r p r o j e c t t e x t , s c re e np r int i n g tech n i q ue wa s us e d . Pla n t see d p ack e t s a r e t he f o c us o f t he Gro w A Pair p r o ject, mak i ng us e o f t he r e p ur p o s e d de ni m p ap e r . Th e lef t j e a n l e g c o nt a i ns C o t t o n se e ds (Goss yp iu m), w h i l s t t he r i g ht l e g ho l d s Indi go seed s ( I n d i go f er a ) , t he t wo m a i n r a w i ng r e di e nts th at go i n to th e r e c i p e f o r p r o d uc i ng n atural d en im jean s. T he se e d pac ke t o wne rs are e nc o urage d to w ait unti l l ate spri ng be f o re c utti ng o f f the hem of th e de ni m pape r j e ans to ge rmi nate the se e ds before pl anti ng the m i n the e arth and watc hi ng th e flora gro w. A bri l l i ant and tho ught-pro vo ki ng way o f en gagin g c i ti z e ns i n unde rstandi ng the f undame ntal origin s o f a pai r o f j e ans. T he ti tl e Gro w A Pai r re f e rs to bo th gro wi ng a pair o f j e ans and to an i nsul ti ng re mark i mpl yin g men sho ul d ‘ to ughe n up’ , pe rpe tuati ng to xi c mascu lin e c ul ture and the i mpac ts thi s has o n mal e men tal he al th i n o ur so c i e ti e s wo rl dwi de . T hro u gh th is pro j e c t D unc an ho pe s to rai se awaren ess of me ntal he al th, parti c ul arl y thro ugh the c hallen ges 2020 has i ntro duc e d by gi vi ng al l ‘ pro se eds’ from the pro j e c t to UK c hari ty C AL M that i s l eadin g a mo ve me nt agai nst sui c i de . L aunc hi ng the Gro w A Pai r se e d pac ke ts in early D e c e mbe r 2020, the re spo nse was e nc o uragin g as the handmade de ni m j e ans se e d pac ke ts sold ou t o n the f i rst day.
@warp_ f ac e
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BU SINESS AS A FO R CE FO R G O O D B COR POR AT IO N CERTIFIED DENIM
Outland Denim
Saitex International
MUD Jeans
In April 2018, Outland Denim became Australia’s first denim label to become a Certified B Corporation, and the second denim label globally. Outland Denim is a socially minded label that creates premium denim jeans while giving training and employment opportunities to some of the world's most vulnerable people. From there manufacturing facilities in Cambodia, Outland Denim welcome employees from varying backgrounds of vulnerability and social injustice to elevate people into prosperity via opportunity, skills acquisition, living wages and education. Each year, B Lab releases lists honouring the top-performing Certified B Corps in each Impact Area on the annual Best for the World lists. In 2019, Outland Denim were honourees on the Best for Community list.
In June 2019, Saitex International became a Certified B Corporation. SAITEX is a privately-owned manufacturing operation specializing in premium denim. Headquartered in Vietnam, with four factories in Dong Nai and one currently in development in Los Angeles, SAITEX is the first apparel factory in Asia and the only large-scale manufacturer of denim with B Corporation Certification. Working with brands such as Outerknown, Eileen Fisher, Madewell and Tommy Hilfiger, SAITEX is LEED certified, Bluesign approved and is also certified as Fair-Trade. Using the latest innovation technologies in responsible denim production SAITEX is focused on reducing its environmental impact on water, waste and energy as well as ensuring social equity.
Certified B Corporation since January 2015, MUD Jeans are a Netherlands based denim brand that initiated the fashion concept ‘Lease A Jeans’. The concept represents a new consuming philosophy that is about using instead of owning. Mud Jeans wants to accelerate the transition to a circular economy in the fashion industry. MUD Jeans have been honourees in the Best for the Environment list for 2015, 2016 and 2018 in B Corps Best for the World lists. Since 2015 MUD Jeans has completed the B Corp assessment three times improving their score from 91.2 to 124.7. MUD Jeans say ‘The higher score is due to improvements in corporate governance, value to customers and our efforts to measure and reduce our impact on the environment.’
www.outlanddenim.com.au @outlanddenim
www.sai-tex.com @saitexdenim
www.mudjeans.eu @mudjeans
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T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
D en ham X Can d ian i The w o rl d ' s f i rs t b i o d e g r a d a b l e st r e t ch de n i m Du tch jean mak e r s D E N H A M p a r t ne r e d with Can d ian i to l a unc h C O RE V A ™ , t he fir st b io d e gr ad ab l e s t r e t c h d e ni m , m a d e fr om n atu r al r u b b e r y a r ns i n 2 0 2 0 . Com b in i n g Co r e v a ™ wi t h rivetless con str u ctio n , u n g a l v a ni z e d m e t a l b ut t o ns Den h am cr e ated a L i m i t e d E d i t o n & o ne of-a - k in d d en im c o l l e c t i o n. DENH AM th e Jea nm a k e r wa s f o und e d i n Am ster d am i n 2 0 0 8 b y E ng l i s h j e a n m a k e r Jaso n D e n h am. D r i v e n b y t he p i o ne e r i ng sp iri t o f th e o r i g i na l b l ue j e a n, D E N H A M ap p r o ach es d esi g n wi t h a p a s s i o n f o r inno v ati o n w h i l e ho no r i ng t r a d i t i o n. Sust ain ab i lity h a s b e e n i nt e r wo v e n i nt o th eir b r an d v alue s s i nc e d a y o ne . F r o m offer i n g l ife- l o n g r e p a i r s o n d e ni m t o r eu si n g v i n tage m a t e r i a l s a nd wa s hi ng th eir j ean s b y h a nd , D E N H A M ha s a l wa y s b eliev ed in b e i ng a n e c o - c o ns c i o us comp an y, b ecau s e t he t r ut h i s i n t he d etai ls. Thei r Co r ev a™ collection can p u r ch ase d v i a t he i r we b s i t e o r Ca n d i an i 's o n l in e s t o r e .
be via
www.de nhamthe j e anmake r.com www.c andi ani de ni m.st ore
C L O S E D X C an di an i A B ET T ER B L UE i s C l o se d' s latest ecof ri e ndl y de ni m l i ne that h as been de ve l o pe d i n partne rshi p w ith Italian de ni m mi l l C andi ani and l au n ch es th is Fe bruary 2021. T he wo me n' s and me n 's capsu le c o l l e c ti o n c o mpri se s o f j e an s an d jackets made f ro m C o re va™ , o rgani c cotton , an d bi o de gradabl e natural rubber stretch yarn and f abri c whi c h i s then w ash ed by the i r partne ri ng l aundry Everest, located ne ar Ve ni c e usi ng i nno vative w ash pro c e sse s, so me o f whi c h do n ot requ ire any wate r.
I m ag e s : C l o s e d
Me tal butto ns and ri ve ts h ave been swappe d o ut f o r se l f ya rn th reads and c e l l ul o se al te rnati ve s, th e Closed l o go has be e n l ase re d o n in stead of usi ng a pri nte d l e athe r pa tch an d th e garme nt i s se wn to ge the r usin g Ten cel™ thre ad al l o wi ng the e nti re produ ct to bi o de grade i n mature c o mpost in less than si x mo nths, wi tho ut releasin g th e to xi c c he mi c al s and mi c roplastics of c o nve nti o nal e l astane , i n complian ce wi th the EU standard EN13432. www.closed.com
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N udie Jeans F ounded in 2 0 0 1 , N u di e J e a ns ha s b ui l t c i r c ul a ri ty i nto t heir b u si n e ss th r o u g h r e p a i r a nd r e - us e s c he me s, t he 1 0 0 % o r gan ic co t t o n m a t e r i a l s t he y us e , and re e duc ating cu sto me r s a b o ut e xt e nd i ng t he l i f e o f the i r g ar men ts. When vi si tin g an y o f t he N ud i e s t o r e s c us t o me rs are g reeted b y a se w i n g m a c hi ne , whi c h s t a f f a r e trai ne d t o use in alter i n g and r e p a i r i ng a ny j e a ns t ha t c o me t hr ough th e d o o r . Their r e - u se p r o gr am a l l o ws c us t o m e r s t o r e c e i ve a 20 % d isc o u n t o ff o f a ne w p a i r o f j e a ns i n e xc hange fo r th eir u se d p air , w hi c h a r e t he n s o l d s e c o nd hand, up cyc led, o r r e cy cled a nd s p un i nt o ne w y a r ns to start t he makin g p r o ce ss a l l o v e r a g a i n. I n 2019, n u d i e r ep a i r e d 6 3 ,2 8 1 p a i r s o f j e a ns and collec ted 1 1 , 5 7 3 f o r r e - us e . T he y a l s o s o l d 3 ,5 21 pai rs of sec on d - h an d j ean s t ha t ha d b e e n r e t ur ne d by the i r custom er s.
N u d i e Je a n s | Re -U s e
I n th e same year , N ud i e l a unc he d t he i r Re bi rth collec tio n u sin g 2 0 % r e c y c l e d c o t t o n f r o m t he ir j e ans, wh ic h in tu r n is h e lp i ng t he m t o c l o s e t he l o o p. www.n u d i ej ean s.co m / s e l e c t i o n
Gan n i X L ev i 's ®
Ganni X Levi
D ES IGNED T O B E WORN, OWNED B Y NON E 100% RENT AL , 100% S HARING Ganni & L e vi ' s® have te ame d up to create a l o w i mpac t c o l l e c ti o n se t o ut to c o mbin e th e l o nge vi ty and we arabi l i ty o f L e vi ’ s® den im wi th GANNI’ s pl ayf ul de si gn, e xpl orin g a c i rc ul ar appro ac h to a f ashi o n c o l l abo ration . Handpi c ke d f ro m the arc hi ve s. C ho sen w ith l o ve e ac h pi e c e i s made f ro m re c o ns tru cted 501s i nf use d wi th GANNI’ s si gnature design . Al l styl e s have be e n c re ate d to be versatile i n use , f e aturi ng mul ti pl e styl i ng option s, de tac habl e c o l l ars, and adj ustabl e waistlin es. C usto me rs are abl e to tap the bac k pat ch w ith the i r smartpho ne to unl o c k the #L EVIS XGAN N I uni ve rse , re ad L o ve L e tte rs f ro m D i t te an d #GANNIGi rl s i n the i r c ampai gn, pl us read o the r e xc l usi ve c o nte nt that has be e n created e spe c i al l y f o r the c o l l e c ti o n. www.re pe at.ganni .c o m Gan n i X L e v i
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TARGETS 6.1 By 2030 , ac h i eve uni vers a l an d e q uit a b le a c c e ss t o sa f e a nd a f f o r d a b l e d rinking w ater for al l 6.2 By 2030 , ac h i eve ac c ess to a d e q ua t e a nd e q uit a b le sa nit a t io n a n d h y giene for al l an d end open de f e c a t io n, p a y ing sp e c ia l a t t e nt io n t o t h e n eed s of wom en an d gi rl s an d tho se in vulne r a b le sit ua t ions 6.3 By 203 0, i m prove water qua lit y b y r e d uc ing p o llut ion, e limina t in g d ump ing and m i n i m i zi ng the rel ea se o f ha za r d ous c he mic a ls a nd ma t e r ia ls , h alv ing t he proporti on of u ntrea t e d w a st e w a t e r a nd sub st a nt ia lly inc r e a sin g r ecy cling and safe re use g l obal l y 6.4 By 2030 , s ubs ta nti al l y i nc rea se w a t e r - use e f f ic ie nc y a c r oss a ll se c t o rs and ensure s ustai na bl e wi thdra w a ls a nd sup p ly o f f r e shw a t e r t o a d d r e s s wat er scarcity an d s ubs ta nti al l y r e d uc e t he numb e r of p e op le suf f e r ing f r om wat er scarcity 6.5 By 2030, i m pl em ent i n te grated w a t e r r e sour c e s ma na ge me nt a t a ll le ve ls , i n clud ing t hrough tra nsbou ndary c oo p e r a t ion a s a p p r o p r ia t e 6.6 By 2020, prote c t an d resto r e w a t e r - r e la t e d e c osy st e ms, inc lud in g mount ains, fore sts , wetl an ds , ri ve r s, a q uif e r s a nd la k e s 6.A By 2030, e xpa nd i n te rn a t iona l c oo p e r a t ion a nd c a p a c it y - b uild in g s u p p ort t o deve l opi ng c ountri e s in w a t e r - a nd sa nit a t ion- r e la t e d a c t ivit ies and p rogram m es, i n c l u di ng water ha r ve st ing, d e sa lina t io n, w a t e r e f f ic ie nc y , wast ewat er trea tm ent, rec yc l i ng a nd r e use t e c hnologie s 6.B Sup p ort a nd s trengthe n the p a r t ic ip a t io n o f loc a l c o mmunit ie s i n i m p rov ing water a nd san i tati on m a na ge me nt
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"EV ERYT H ING WE D O DURI NG A ND A F T E R T HIS CRISIS [ C OV I D - 1 9 ] M UST BE WI T H A ST RONG FOCUS ON BUI L D I NG M ORE E QUA L , INCLUSIV E AND SUSTA I NA BL E E C ONOM I E S AND SO CIET IES T H AT A RE M ORE RE SI L I E NT IN T HE FACE OF PA ND E M I C S, C L I M AT E CHANGE, AND T H E M A NY OT H E R GL OBA L C H A L L E NGE S WE FAC E ." ANTÓNIO GU TERRES S ECRETARY- GENERAL, UNITED NATIONS
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"The challenges of today and the future are endless— materials, waste, consumption, education, design and, again, the age-old narrative that we must sacrifice our ecosystem to live pleasurably. But, just as we have all these challenges, we see a tremendous opportunity to explore and manifest solutions. We must not forget that throughout history, civilisations who have failed often abused the system that sustained them. Those who have thrived have withstood great challenges, withstood earthshaking change with creative collaboration and resilience. Humanity has sustainable design encoded genetically in our bodies, and that earthshaking change can ultimately be for the better. New generations excite us. We believe through time we have developed a deeper understanding and appreciation for empathy, consciousness, and creativity. These three basic attributes have the power to, in time, change our course, and perhaps guide us to the most innovative and giving phase we have ever seen. We hope we live to see it." AR IANN E & J OANNA EN GELBERG THE NEW DENIM PROJECT
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I m age : T he N e w De ni m P r o j e c t
www.thenewdenimproject.com
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RESPONSIBLE SOURCING & RESOURCES
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D E N IM T OD AY | AN AR OU N D T H E WO R LD SE R I E S IM AG E BY A NNA SHVE T S
C lick any of the SDG icons to learn mor e abo u t eac h go al .
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T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1
Certifications Harmful & Restricted Substances A FI R M R S L , T o r e d uc e t he us e a nd i mpac t o f harmf ul substanc e s i n the appare l and footw ear su p p l y c ha i n. A F I RM i s t he A ppare l and Fo o twe ar Inte rnati o nal RS L Manage men t (AFIRM ) Wo r k i n g G r o up , e s t a b l i s he d i n 2 004. AFIRM’ s mi ssi o n i s “ to re duc e the use and i mpac t of h armfu l su b stanc e s i n t he a p p a r e l a nd f oo twe ar suppl y c hai n.” AFIRM’ s purpo se i s to pro vi de a foru m to ad v an ce t he g l o b a l m a na g e m e nt o f re stri c te d substanc e s i n appare l and f o o twe ar, c ommu n icate i n f o r ma t i o n a b o ut c he m i c a l m a nage me nt to the suppl y c hai n, di sc uss c o nc e rns, an d exch an ge i d eas f o r i m p r o v i ng c he m i c a l m a nage me nt. h ttp s:/ / www. a f i r m - g r o up . c o m / wp-c o nte nt/upl o ads/2020/01/2020_ AFIRM_ RS L _ 2020_ 0131.pdf BL UESI G N i s a s y s t e m t ha t p r o v i de s saf e r and mo re sustai nabl e e nvi ro nme nts f or people to w o r k i n a nd e v e r y o ne t o l i v e i n. P o we re d by a ho l i sti c appro ac h, B L UES IGN trac e s e ach textile's p ath alo ng t he m a nuf a c t ur i ng p ro c e ss, maki ng i mpro ve me nts at e ve ry stage f ro m th e factory f lo o r to f i ni s he d p r o d uc t . h ttp s:/ / www. b l ue s i g n. c o m / e n ST A ND A R D 100 b y O E K O - TE X ® is o ne o f the wo rl d' s be st-kno wn l abe l s f o r te xti l e s tested for h ar mf ul s ub s t a nc e s . I t s t a nd s f o r c usto me r c o nf i de nc e and hi gh pro duc t saf e ty. Th e O e k o - T e x S t a nd a r d 1 0 0 , i nt ro duc e d i n 1992, i s a gl o bal uni f o rm te sti ng and certification sy ste m f o r t e xt i l e r a w m a t e r i a l s, i nte rme di ate pro duc ts and e nd-pro duc ts at all stages of p r o d u ct i o n. T e x t i l e p r o d uc t s a re c e rti f i e d ac c o rdi ng to Oe ko -T e x S tandard 100 on ly if all co mp o ne nt s m e e t t he r e q ui r e d c ri te ri a wi tho ut e xc e pti o n. D isco v e r o t he r O e k o - T e x c e r t i f i c a ti o ns here D ET OX TO ZE R O b y O E K O - TE X® i s a c o mpre he nsi ve ve ri f i c ati o n and re po rti ng s y stem th at r e co gn i s e s t he r e q ui r e m e nt s s t i pul ate d by the Gre e npe ac e D e to x c ampai gn. D o cu men tation o f th e c o m p a ny ' s o p e r a t i o ns , s u c h as trai ni ng, e nvi ro nme ntal re po rti ng, i nte rnal an d extern al co mmuni c a t i o n https://www.oeko-tex.com/importedmedia/downloadfiles/DETOX_TO_ZERO_by_OEKO-TEX_R__-_ Gu id el ine . p d f M R SL st a nd s f o r M a nuf a c t uri ng Restric ted Substa nc e L ist and pro vi de s brands, retailers, su p p l ie r s a nd m a nuf a c t ur e r s wi th ac c e ptabl e l i mi ts o f re stri c te d substanc e s in ch emical f o r mu l a t i o ns us e d i n t he r a w m a te ri al and pro duc t manuf ac turi ng pro c e sse s. Z D HC - Ze r o D i s c ha r g e f o r ha r m f ul c he mi c al s h ttp s:/ / www. r o a d m a p t o z e r o . c o m /po st/z dhc -re l e ase s-mrsl -c o nf o rmanc e -gui danc e R EA CH i s a r e g ul a t i o n o f t he E ur o pe an Uni o n, ado pte d to i mpro ve the pro te c ti o n o f hu man h ealth an d th e e nv i r o nm e nt f r o m t he ri sks po se d by c he mi c al s whi l e e nhanc i ng the c o mpetitiven ess o f th e E U c he m i c a l s i nd us t r y . R EAC H stands f o r Re gi strati o n, Eval uati o n, Autho risation an d R estr ict i o n o f C he m i c a l s . 98
h ttp s:/ / www. i nt e r t e k . c o m / r e a c h/
Certifications & Initiatives Social Compliance T HE E TH IC A L TR A D IN G IN ITIATI VE ( ETI ) i s a l e adi ng al l i anc e o f c o mpani e s, trade u n ion s an d N G O s t ha t p r o m o t e s r e s pe c t f o r wo rke rs' ri ghts wo rl dwi de . Our vi si o n i s a w orld w h e r e a l l wo r k e r s a r e f r e e f r o m e xpl o i tati o n and di sc ri mi nati o n, and e nj o y c o ndition s of f r ee d o m , s e c ur i t y a nd e q ui t y . h ttp s: / / www. e t hi c a l t r a d e . o r g / a bo ut-e ti FA I R TR A D E i s A s o c i a l m o v e m e nt that ai ms to e nsure that f ai r pri c e s are pai d to produ cers i n d e v e l o p i ng c o unt r i e s a nd de l i ve r i mpro ve d so c i al and e nvi ro nme ntal stan dards. Th e m o v e m e nt f o c us e s p a r t i c ul arl y o n c o mmo di ti e s o r pro duc ts so l d by pro ducers in d e v e lo p i ng c o unt r i e s t o c o m p a ni e s i n de ve l o pe d c o untri e s, suc h as c o f f e e , c o c o a, su gar an d c ho c o l a t e . h ttp s: / / www. f a i r t r a d e . ne t / SUST A IN A B IL ITY S A 8000 - C e r t i f i c ati o n - S o c i al Ac c o untabi l i ty. S A 8000 i s an i nte rnation al ce r tifi c a t i o n s t a nd a r d t ha t e n c o urage s o rgani z ati o ns to de ve l o p, mai ntai n and apply so ci al l y a c c e p t a b l e wo r k p l a c e prac ti c e s. https://www.sgs.com.au/en-gb/sustainability/social-sustainability/audit-certificationan d - v e r i f i c a t i o n/ s a - 8 0 0 0 - c e r t i f ic ati o n-so c i al -ac c o untabi l i ty WOR L D W ID E R E S P O N S IB L E A CCREDI TED P RO DU CTI O N ( W RA P ) WR AP i s t he wo r l d ' s m o s t e xt e nsi ve i nde pe nde nt c e rti f i c ati o n pro gram f o c use d on th e ap p are l , f o o t we a r , a nd s e wn p ro duc ts. h ttp s: / / wr a p c o m p l i a nc e . o r g / c e rti f i c ati o n/ ET HI C A L C L O TH IN G A U S TR A L I A Eth ica l C l o t hi ng A us t r a l i a ( E C A ®) i s an ac c re di tati o n bo dy wo rki ng c o l l abo rati vely w ith l o cal t e x t i l e , c l o t hi ng a nd f o o twe ar ( T C F) busi ne sse s to e nsure the i r Austral i an su pply ch ains a r e l e g a l l y c o m p l i a nt . h ttp s: / / e t hi c a l c l o t hi ng a us t r a l i a .o rg.au/ FA I R W E A R F O U N D A TIO N L A B O U R STA NDA RDS | A C o de o f L abo r Prac ti c e s made u p of e igh t l a b o ur s t a nd a r d s d e r i v e d f ro m IL O C o nve nti o ns and the UN' s D e c l arati o n o n Hu man R igh ts F W F C o d e o f L a b o r P r a c ti c e s i s base d o n i nte rnati o nal l y re c o gni z e d standards set th r o u g h t r i p a r t i t e ne g o t i a t i o n. h ttp s: / / a p i . f a i r we a r . o r g / wp - c o n te nt/upl o ads/2016/06/f wf c o de o f l abo urprac ti c e s.pdf
D i s c o v e r m o re c e rti f i c ati o ns vi a o ur so urc i ng pl atf o rm
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102 IMA GE: V I TO R I A S A NTO S
Natural Fibre & Fabric Source Hemps, Linens & Cellulose in Denim
C H ET NA COT T O N , G uj a ra t , Ind i a . Che tn a O r gan i c i s a uni q ue 3 6 0 ° d e v e l opme nt i nte rve nti o n f o r smal l ho l de r ( & tri bal ) f arme r fa mi lies p r i ma r i l y d e p e nd e nt o n r a i nf e d agri c ul ture . C he tna was e stabl i she d wi th the pri mary ai m o f e n h an c i ng c o t t o n f a r m e r s l i v e l i ho o d o pti o ns thro ugh maki ng the i r f armi ng syste ms mo r e p r o fitab l e a nd s us t a i na b l e . C he t na f o c us state s i nc l ude Andhra Prade sh, Maharashtra an d O d i sh a, and s p e c i f i c t e c hni c a l s e r v ic e s e xte nde d to o the r state s. The Ch e tn a O r g a ni c & F a i r T r a d e C o t t o n Inte rve nti o n Pro gram starte d i n 2004 as a c o mpo s ite p i lo t o n O r gan i c / N o n- P e s t i c i d e M a na g e me nt ( NPM) & Fai r-trade suppl y c hai n de ve l o pme n t, in r e sp o n se to t he a g r a r i a n c r i s i s i n I ndi a. C he tna Organi c i s a be l i e f o f mo re than 8000 p r e d o min an tly t r i b a l f a r m e r s i n s us t a i nabl e agri c ul ture and e thi c al trade prac ti c e s. AFGI H as i n tr o d u ce d t he P ur e C o l l e c t i o n, a l i ne o f f abri c s made f ro m mo re re l i abl e so urc e s inclu d i n g p o st- c o ns um e r r e c y c l e d d e ni m, po st-i ndustri al re c yc l e d c o tto n, o rgani c c o tto n, Be tter Co tto n , he m p , T e nc e l Re f i b r a a nd mo re . BA ST CONE Bastco n e is a U S A he m p c o m p a ny p r o d uc i ng te xti l e grade he mp. HO USE O F GOL D Lau n ch ed a se l e c t i o n o f o v e r 5 0 d i f f e r e nt arti c l e s made wi th he mp bl e nde d wi th o the r natu ral fib r es su ch as o r g a ni c c o t t o n, T e nc e l ™ f o r 21/22. IS K UR ISK UR , h as e n l a r g e d i t s E a r t hs q ua d s e l e c ti o n o f f abri c s made wi th natural f i bre s suc h as l i n en , so y- p r o te in fib r e a nd he m p . N A V EEN A O f fer s a v ast s e l e c t i o n o f na t ur a l f i b r e s , i nc l udi ng he mp. O R T A 'S H e r e4 go o d co l l e c t i o n i nc l ud e s f a b r i c i nn o vati o ns that have l e ss i mpac t o n the e nvi ro nme nt an d f o cu se s o n c l i m a t e - f r i e nd l y ha b i t s . T he i r Ge n H f abri c s o f f e r de ni m i nno vati o ns wi th en gi n e er e d h e m p , i nc l ud i ng m i xe d he m p wi th c o tto n and re c yc l e d c o tto n f o r vari o us we i ght fa b r ics in cl u d i ng und y e d e c r u. The co llecti o n a l s o f e a t ur e s G o o d E a r t h C o tto n that i nc l ude s Fi bre T rac e , whi c h c re ate s the ind u str y 's f ir st c a r b o n- p o s i t i v e d e ni m , Ze ro -max, f abri c s made wi th T e nc e l ™ L yo c e l l , he mp, lin e n an d zer o c o t t o n. O r ta also h as L C A f o r a l l o f t he f a b r i c s that the y pro duc e . T he y have be e n do i ng thi s f o r th ree ye ar s, al lo w in g t he m t o us e t he d a t a wi t hi n the i r App to he l p the i r c l i e nts se l e c t the be st mater i als b ase d o n wha t ' s hi s t o r i c a l l y be e n made . Disco v e r H e r e4g o o d H E R E SH A R A BA T I 'S New e co ce n tr i c c o l l e c t i o n o f f e r s f a b r i c s made wi th bl e nds o f he mp, l i ne n, l yo c e l l and mo del. SO O R T Y H as i n tr o d u ce d a 5 0 % T e nc e l ™ 5 0 % E c o ve ro al te rnati ve to tradi ti o nal c o tto n de ri ve d de ni m. Disco v e r So o r t y ' s 2 0 2 1 l o o k b o o k H E RE AR V I N D H as i n tr o d u ce d Ka p o k f i b r e i nt o t he i r c ol l e c ti o n thi s se aso n, whi c h i s c l asse d as the mo st su stain ab l e n a t ur a l f i b r e we g r o w t o d a y . FL OCUS™ Pr o d u ces yar n b l e nd s a nd f i l l i ng m a d e w i th kapo k o ut o f shanghai . 9FI B ER Is a U S- b ased c o m p a ny i nno v a t i ng r e s p onsi bl e and sustai nabl e so l uti o ns to c annabi s and h emp b i o mass w aste r e c y c l i ng . T he i r 9 F i b e r ™ so l uti o ns c o nve rt unwante d waste i nto usabl e bast fib r es an d h u rd t o b e us e d i n v a r i o us p ro duc ts, i nc l udi ng f i bre s f o r the te xti l e s and f ashi o n ind u str y .
** Th i s is ju st a s m a l l g l i m p s e o f ne w m ate ri al s avai l abl e o n the marke t to day
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JACRO NS T he t e r m “ J a c r o n” r e f e r s t o the smal l re c tangul ar-shape d patc h f o und o n t he b a c k s i d e o f a j e a ns ’ wai stband R e s e a r c h s ho ws t ha t L e v i was the f i rst de ni m brand to be gi n usi ng j ac ro ns o n t he i r d e ni m o v e r a l l s i n 1873. S ho rtl y the re af te r, L e vi be gan usi ng the m i n i t s j e a ns . W he n j a c r o ns f i r s t a p p e are d duri ng the l ate 1800s the y we re use d to pr o t e c t a g a i ns t c o unt e r f e iti ng. T he t wo ho r s e s p ul l i ng i n o ppo si te di re c ti o ns i l l ustrate the stre ngth o f L e v i s p r o d uc t s a nd t ha t t he y c o ul dn' t te ar the m apart — o r so thi s patc h s ug g e s t s . W i t h t he p a t e nt f o r ri ve te d j e ans se t to e xpi re i n 1890, the c o m p a ny c a m e up wi t h t he i de a o f usi ng a si mpl e i mage to c o nve y the t o ug hne s s o f t he p a nt s . T he two ho rse s tryi ng i n vai n to ri p the j e ans w o ul d b e c o m e a t r a d e m a rk o f the c o mpany and appe ar o n patc he s si nc e i t s i nc e p t i o n. S t r a us s a nd o t he r s b e l i e v e d i t was al so a go o d way to stre ss the durabi l i ty t o c us t o m e r s who d i d n’ t k no w Engl i sh. E v e n t o d a y , whe n ho r s es are ge ne ral l y no t use d to me asure te nsi l e s t r e ng t h, t he l e a t he r r e c t angl e o ve r L e vi ' s bac k ri ght po c ke t i l l ustrate s t he i r l e g e nd a r y d ur a b i l i t y and re i nf o rc e s the i r status as the o ri gi nato r o f p a t e nt e d r i v e t e d c l o t hi ng.
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We l iv e o n a p l a ne t wi t h f i ni t e r e s o urc e s whe re pac kagi ng pl ays a vi tal ro l e i n the gl o bal f ash io n and t e xt i l e e c o s y s t e m a s i t pro te c ts pro duc ts as the y trave l al o ng the val ue c hai n. Y e t t hi s p a c k a g i ng i sn’ t pro te c ti ng o ur pl ane t. No w i s the t i m e t o r e t hi nk o ur a ppro ac h and to ge the r e mbrac e i nno vati ve mate ri als an d p ack a g i ng s y s t e m s t ha t a r e re ne wabl e , re usabl e , c o mpo stabl e , re c yc l abl e and bi o de gradabl e . To d ay w e ha v e m o r e c ho i c e s i n p a ckagi ng mate ri al s than e ve r be f o re , and as e duc ated cu sto me r s i nc r e a s i ng l y p r e s s ur e b rands f o r re spo nsi bl y made pro duc ts thi s to o mus t e x te n d to t he p a c k a g i ng t he y t r a v e l i n and ho w i t' s f urthe r re use d o r di spo se d o f . Fro m p o ly b ags t o s ho e b o x e s , e - c o m m e r c e mai l e rs, vo i d-f i l l and l abe l l i ng to name j ust a f e w , th e p ack ag i ng i s c o m p l e x a nd ne c e s s i tate s a ho l i sti c unde rstandi ng whe n maki ng c ho i c es th at ad d r e s s t he p a c k a g i ng l i f e c y c l e and who take s o wne rshi p o nc e i ts purpo se i s se rve d. Th r o u gh inno v a t i o n, c l e a n t e c hno l o gy and gre e n c he mi stry, ne w mate ri al s are e me rgi ng th at cr eate v a l ue f r o m wa s t e s t r e a m s and re ne wabl e re so urc e s, f ro m al gae to c hi to san , t e x t i l e o f f c ut s, waste wo o l and myc e l i um. To ge th e r a s we r e d i r e c t o ur c ho i c e s away f ro m f o ssi l -f ue l s we must be c o nsc i o us o f o u r gr o w i n g d e p e nd e nc e o n c o nv e nt i o n al re pl ac e me nts suc h as tre e -base d pul p. Ide nti f yi n g al ter n ativ e r e ne wa b l e s o ur c e s t ha t uti l i se waste stre ams and the agri c ul tural re si du e i s i mp o r ta nt , a s t hi s wi l l t a k e t he p re ssure o f f tre e -base d mate ri al s whi c h i s o ne o f th e cr i tical r ec o m m e nd a t i o ns p r o p o s e d by e nvi ro nme ntal no n-pro f i t o rgani sati o n C ano py as a N ex t Ge ne r a t i o n s o l ut i o n t o t he g ro wi ng vi rgi n wo o d de mand and the pro te c ti o n o f o u r wo r l d ’ s f o re sts f o r the f uture . New syste m s a r e b e i ng i nt r o d uc e d aro und l ast-mi l e pac kagi ng, l i ke re use se rvi ce co mp an ies s uc h a s Re P a c k b y s t r e a ml i ni ng and si mpl i f yi ng re usabl e pac kagi ng that th e cu sto me r c a n r e t ur n b y p o s t o r t o a c o nve ni e nt l o c ati o n - whi c h i s f urthe r re c yc l e d when i ts time o f r e us e c o m e s t o a n e nd. C hange i s he re and i t’ s happe ni ng as ke y pl aye rs i n th e i n dus t r y i m p l e m e nt t he i r c o m mi tme nts to phasi ng o ut c o nve nti o nal pl asti c and min i mi se o v e r a l l p a c k a g i ng . A s we l l as pi l o t pro j e c ts and sc he me s be i ng i ni ti ate d aro und th e gl o b e t o a d d r e s s t he ub i q ui t o u s pro bl e m o f the si ngl e -use l o w-de nsi ty po l ye the n e po l ybag. I t i s ti me fo r a n a l l - e m b r a c i ng i nd us t ry transi ti o n to wards re spo nsi bl e pac kagi ng, al i gni ng m a t e r i a l s wi t h s y s te ms and c o nsi de ri ng the f o l l o wi ng: 1 . Mi ni mi se pac kagi ng 2 . I nc r e a s e r e c y c le d c o nte nt i n pac kagi ng mate ri al s 3 . C ho o s e r e s p o ns i bl y pro duc e d re ne wabl e mate ri al s 4 . Clear l y c o m m uni c a t e r e s p o ns i bl e di spo sal o r re use i nf o rmati o n o n the pac kagi ng 5 . R e fr am e wa s t e s t r e a m s a nd a gri c ul tural re si due as val uabl e re so urc e s f o r ne w p ac kagi ng mate ri al s
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E s t a b l i s he d i n 2 0 15 i n T o kushi ma Pre f e c ture the r e g a r d e d b i r t hp l ac e o f i ndi go i n Japan, B uai so u i s a c o l l e c t i v e o f c re ati ve s that have e stabl i she d a n i nd i g o f a r m a n d dye ho use to c o nti nue the c r a f t s m a ns hi p o f Japane se i ndi go pro duc ti o n. W he n t he J a p a ne se Mi ni stry f o r Educ ati o n a p p e a l e d f o r t wo i ndi vi dual s to be trai ne d i n t he a r t o f i nd i g o dye i ng to pre se rve the c raf t f o r f ut ur e g e ne r a ti o ns, Kakuo Kaj i and Ke nta W a t a na b e r e s p o nde d to the c al l . As appre nti c e s t o s uk um o m a s t e r Osamu Ni i the y l e arnt the c raf t o f s uk um o – f e r m e nti ng i ndi go l e ave s – and i n r e c o g ni s i ng t he i r share d passi o n, B uai so u was b o r n. I n wha t m a y s e e m a no ve l appro ac h to maki ng c l o t he s i n t hi s m ode rn wo rl d, B uai so u i s a re vi val o f c e nt ur i e s - o l d c raf tsmanshi p and re pre se nts m i nd f ul l o c a l p r o duc ti o n i n an i nc re asi ngl y g l o b a l i s e d a nd c o mme rc i al i ndustry. F r o m p r o d uc i ng t he i r i ndi go -dye d te xti l e s to c o l l a b o r a t i ng wi t h arti sts, brands and c e l e bri ti e s, B ua i s o u’ s na t ur a l pi gme nt has al so be e n f e ature d i n A e s o p ’ s N E W o M an Yo ko hama sto re thro ughd y e d m a p l e t i m b er c urve d wal l s i n c o l l abo rati o n wi t h T o r a f u A r c hi t e c ts.
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THE ART OF REINVENTIO N We take a l ook at compan ie s all arou n d t h e w orld w h o are mak in g s u r e ou r de n im g arme n t s la s t l o n g e r R ep ai r in g no t o nl y s a v e s t he wo r l d f ro m mo re waste i t al so c re ate s uni que pi e c e s o f w earable ar t, a o n e o f a k i nd j e a ns i n t he c ase o f Pe y, aka S ashi ko D e ni m. Pe y' s mai n mo ti vati on beh in d cr eati ng hi s p i e c e s o f d e ni m a r t i s to take ac ti o n agai nst to day’ s f ast c yc l e o f ‘ use t u rn ed to w aste ’ . H e o nl y us e t he t r a d i t i o na l j apane se me ndi ng te c hni que ‘ sashi ko ’ to re pai r j e an s, all by h an d , o n e s t i t c h a t t he t i m e . T he f oc us and de di c ati o n ne e de d to re pai ri ng and al te rin g den im w ith t hi s t e c hni q ue i s wha t m a ke s i t a uni que and stando ut o ve r o the rs. A uni que piece of we a r a b l e a r t t ha t m o r e o f us appre c i ate to day as sl o w f ashi o n gai ns mo re traction .
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W ha t i s S a s h i k o? S a s hi k o s t i t c hi ng i s a t radi ti o nal re i nf o rc e me nt sti tc hi ng t e c hni q ue f r o m J a p a n. T radi ti o nal l y thi s me tho d was use d t o r e i nf o r c e p o i nt s o f we ar o r to re pai r wo rn pl ac e s o r te ars wi t h p a t c he s , m a k i ng t he darne d pi e c e ul ti mate l y stro nge r a nd wa r m e r . I t wa s v e ry po pul ar amo ng po o r f arme rs and f i s he r m e n i n t he N o r t h e rn part o f Japan. Mo st o f the ti me t he d e c o r a t i o ns a r e s y m bo l s o n ki mo no s and o the r garme nts whi c h we r e c o ns i d e r e d as spi ri tual pro te c ti o n. S o me garme nts ha d s t i t c he d s y m b o l s hi dde n i nsi de the garme nt to pro te c t the body too. S a s hi k o m e a ns l i t e r a l l y l i ttl e stabs. T he c o tto n thre ad i s whi te a nd wa s us e d o n o r i g i n al c o l o ure d pi e c e s that we re dye d i n na t ur a l i nd i g o . N o wa d ays the se o l d pi e c e s are ve ry val uabl e a nd t r ue c o l l e c t o r ’ s i t e ms.
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W O R LD WI D E CO N SUMP T I O N A ND P R O D U C T I O N
Wo r ld wi d e c o ns um p t i o n a nd p ro duc ti o n, a dri vi ng f o rc e o f the gl o bal e c o no my, r el y o n t he us e o f t he na t ur a l e nv i ro nme nt and re so urc e s i n a mo de l that c o nti nue s to lead t o d e s t r uc t i v e i m p a c t s o n the pl ane t. T he pande mi c o f f e rs c o untri e s an o p p o r t uni t y t o b ui l d a r e c o v e r y pl an that wi l l re ve rse c urre nt tre nds and c hange c o ns um p t i o n a nd p r o d uc ti o n patte rns to wards a sustai nabl e f uture . As o f 2 0 1 9 , 7 9 c o unt r i e s a nd the Euro pe an Uni o n re po rte d o n at l e ast o ne n ati o n a l p o l i c y i ns t r um e nt t hat c o ntri bute d to sustai nabl e c o nsumpti o n and p r o d u c t i o n i n t he i r e f f o r t s t o wa rds the i mpl e me ntati o n o f the 10-Ye ar Frame wo rk o f P r o g r a m m e s o n S us t a i n abl e C o nsumpti o n and Pro duc ti o n Patte rns. G lo b al d o m e s t i c m a t e r i a l c o ns umpti o n pe r c api ta ro se by 7 pe r c e nt, f ro m 10.8 me tr ic t o ns p e r c a p i t a i n 2 0 1 0 to 11.7 me tri c to ns i n 2017, wi th i nc re ase s i n all r eg i o ns e xc e p t N o r t he r n A me ri c a and Af ri c a. Ho we ve r, do me sti c mate ri al co n su m p t i o n p e r c a p i t a i n E ur o pe and No rthe rn Ame ri c a i s sti l l 40 pe r c e nt hi ghe r th an th e g l o b a l a v e r a g e , i nd i c a t i ng the ne e d to e nhanc e re so urc e e f f i c i e nc y and p r a c t i c e s t o r educ e c o nsumpti o n i n the f uture . Th e glo b a l m a t e r i a l f o o t p r i nt r ose , f ro m 73.2 bi l l i o n me tri c to ns i n 2010 to 85.9 b illio n m e t r i c t o ns i n 2 0 1 7 , a 17.4 pe r c e nt i nc re ase si nc e 2010 and a 66.5 pe r cen t i nc r e a s e f r o m 2 0 0 0 . T he w o rl d’ s re l i anc e o n natural re so urc e s c o nti nue d to a c c e l e r a t e i n the past two de c ade s. Th e M o nt r e a l P r o t o c o l o n S ub s t anc e s that D e pl e te the Oz o ne L aye r has be e n u n iv e r s a l l y r a t i f i e d b y 1 9 8 p a r t i e s, and, as a re sul t o f i ts i mpl e me ntati o n, the o v er al l a b und a nc e o f o z o ne - d e p l e ti ng substanc e s i n the atmo sphe re has de c re ase d o v er th e p a s t t wo d e c a d e s , wi t h pro j e c ti o ns to re turn to 1980 val ue s i n the 2030s f o r no r t he r n he mi sphe re mi d-l ati tude o z o ne . Fr o m 20 1 0 t o 2 0 1 9 , g l o b a l e - wa s te ge ne rati o n gre w c o nti nuo usl y, f ro m 5.3 kg pe r cap ita t o 7 . 3 k g p e r c a p i t a , whi l e the e nvi ro nme ntal l y so und re c yc l i ng o f e ‑waste inc r e a s e d a t a s l o we r p a c e, f ro m 0.8 kg pe r c api ta to 1.3 kg pe r c api ta. G lo b al f o s s i l f ue l s ub s i d i e s a mo unte d to mo re than $400 bi l l i o n i n 2018. T he co n tin u e d p r e v a l e nc e o f s uc h s ubsi di e s, mo re than do ubl e the e sti mate d subsi di e s fo r r en e wa b l e s , a d v e r s e l y a f f e c ts the task o f ac hi e vi ng an e arl y pe ak i n gl o bal c a r bo n di o xi de e mi ssi o ns. L e a r n mo re abo ut Go al 12 he re Un ited N a tio n s Acce ss t he P r o g r es s t o w a r ds t h e S u s ta in a b le D evelo p men t Go a ls , R ep o rt o f th e S ec reta ry- Gen era l, HE R E
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ART IN THE MODERN AGE Aus tralian artist Rac hael We l l i s ch ca p t u res t h e i ma g i n a t i o n t h ro u g h h er ar tworks and installations as s h e w ea ves i n s p i r a t i o n f ro m l a n d s ca p es a n d ancien t earth forms w ith repu r p o s ed t ext i l es a n d p l a n t -d er i ved In d i g o d ye.
For R ach ae l, art i s a wa y t o c o m m uni cate the in n ate r el atio n s hi p b e t we e n hum a n b e havi o ur a n d th e n atu r al e nv i r o nm e nt . A p a r a l l e l we are in cr e asi n gl y b e c o m i ng m o r e a wa r e o f a s w e e nte r the An th r o p o cen e .
UK and nume ro us l o c ati o ns aro und Australia. C urre ntl y Rac hae l i s a po st-c o nf i rmati o n doctoral c andi date and tuto r at the Gri f f i th U n iversity , whe re she share s he r e xpe ri e nc e s and know ledge wi th the ne xt ge ne rati o n o f arti sts.
T h is th r e ad o f co nne c t i o n f r o m t he na t ur a l wo rl d, to m ate r ials an d s us t a i na b i l i t y i n t he m o de rn age is ad d r e ssed th r o ug h Ra c ha e l ’ s m i nd f ul use o f sa lv aged tex tiles a nd p r e s e r v a t i o n o f t he hi sto ri c pr a ctice o f n atur a l I nd i g o d y e i ng b y ha nd. W it h w o r k cu r r e nt l y i ns t a l l e d i n t he Hyo go Pr e fectu r al M u s e um o f A r t i n J a p a n, R ac hae l ’ s work h as al so e xhi b i t e d i n I r e l a nd , A us tri a, the
In c o nve rsati o n wi th RawAsse mbl y, Rac hael sh ared wi th us i nsi ght be hi nd he r arti sti c pro c e ss, love of natural Indi go and he r pe rspe c ti ve o n th e role of art i n the c hangi ng wo rl d aro und us.
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R ach a el, h o w do y o u d e sc ri b e y o ur wo rk? I’m a v i su al ar tist, m a k i ng s c ul p t ur e s , i ns t a l l ati o ns, vid eo an d w al l- b a s e d wo r k s , us i ng s a l vage d textiles an d n atu r a l i nd i g o d y e . Te l l u s a bo u t h ow yo ur j o urne y a s a natura l In d i go v is u a l a r tist b e g a n. W he n d i d y o u fa ll in l ove w ith th is me d i um ? I’m a little o b se ss e d wi t h I nd i g o a nd ha v e be e n d yein g r e gu l ar ly wi t h i t s i nc e 2 0 1 1 . I t ’ s s u c h an amazi n g mater i al t o wo r k wi t h, a nd i t ha s a l o ng, r ic h , co mp lex , so m e t i m e s d a r k , b ut f a s c i nati ng h istory . I don’t k n o w ex actl y whe n i t b e g a n, b ut d o i ng so me d yein g an d b atik wa y b a c k whe n I wa s a t e enage r, th en see in g in tr i g ui ng I nd i g o t e x t i l e s o n t rave l s in Ja p an , I n d o n e s i a , N o r t he r n A f r i c a a nd the Middl e East ce r tainl y c o nt r i b ut e d . T he p r o ce ss o f making a d ye v at, wa t c hi ng f a b r i c i m m e r s ed i nto a cop p e r y b r o w n l i q ui d , e m e r g e y e l l o w/ g r e en and th en gr ad u ally o x i d i z e t o b l ue i s j us t s o magi c al an d s ati sf y in g. Wh at a r e th e m a i n c o nc e p t s y o u hope to co mmu n ica te t hro ug h y o ur a rt a nd i n stalla tio n s ?
B l ue Moon, H and -m ad e p ap e r , f r om i nd i go d y e d sal v age d t e x t i l e s.
"Th e b roa d u n d erly in g t h eme with i n my p ra c t ic e is t h e rela t ion sh ip b et ween h u ma n b eh a v ior a n d t h e n a t u ra l en v iron men t ."
The br o ad u n d e r ly i ng t he m e wi t hi n m y p r a cti c e i s th e r el atio n sh ip b e t we e n hum a n b e ha v i o r a nd the n atu r al e n v ir o n me nt . Disc ou r se ar o u n d c l i m a t e c ha ng e a nd s us t a i nabi l i ty is inc r e asi n gl y a so ur c e o f c o nf us i o n a nd d espai r, an d m y w o r k isn ’ t i nt e nd e d a s a s c o l d i ng o r even an o v e r t cal l t o a c t i o n, b ut r a t he r a l a ye re d con tr i b u ti o n to th e c o nv e r s a t i o n a r o und be i ng mindf u l o f w h at we ha v e , a nd ho w e v e r y t hi ng i s con n ecte d . I ’ d l o v e i t i f t he wo r k g a r ne r e d a se nse of wo n d er , cu r i o s i t y a nd i nt r i g ue t o wa r ds the mater i als, w h i ch i d e a l l y m i g ht g e ne r a t e a se nse of h op e. C ou l d y o u s h a r e m o re a b o ut t he re l a t i onship o f you r w o r k to S a l va g e d t e x t i l e s a nd the i mp o r ta n ce o f w o rki ng w i t h m a t e ri a l s tha t al rea dy ex is t a n d i n so m e c a s e s m a t e ri a ls tha t h ave r ea ch ed th e e nd o f t he i r na t ura l p roduc t l i f e -cy cle. Ju mp i n g in an d o u t o f t he a l r e a d y e xi s t i ng c yc l e of thi n gs fee ls a p o s i t i v e wa y t o c o nne c t , bo th to th e mate r ials I ’ m wo r k i ng wi t h, o t he r pe o pl e an d m y e n v ir o n me nt . A n o l d l i ne n t a b l e c l o t h, no w staine d an d fr ay e d r e a l l y s p e a k s o f m a ny me al s p r ep ar ed an d sh a r e d , us e d b e d s he e t s wo rn thi n in th e mi d d le h av e p r e s um a b l y s e e n t he i r c a pac i ty of sle e p in g b o d i es , a s we l l a s l o v e , s e x, b i r th and d eath .
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L EF T: 11.11 - E leven | Eleven B AND ANA e asy to we ar low cu t slipo n made o f h an d spu n c o tto n dye d in n atu ral i ndi go .
ABOVE: 11.11 - El e v e n | El e v e n
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BADOU CH E easy to w ear lo w cu t s l i p - o n m a d e o f ha nd sp u n c o tto n d yed in na t ur a l i nd i g o . *ha n d sp u n r ef er s t o t he y a r n t ha t i s s p un b y h an d an d w o v e n o n a ha nd l o o m i n I nd i a . *na tu r al i n d i go is d y e d i n 1 0 0 % f r uc t o s e b ased f er men tatio n
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L EF T: 11.11 - E leven | E leven L S RIN a l o o se f i tte d c l assic collar sh irt made i n hand spun cotton w ith pi n bandhani artwo rk an d dy ed in natural i ndi go .
LEFT: 11.11 - El e v e n | Ele v e n ANYTIM E an ove r gar men t / we a r it ove r a sh ir t o r a d r e s s : let it fr ee f all o r dr a p e on e o f th e lu x u r i o u s length s o f f ab r ic l i k e a scar f. Th i s is a p l ay f ul p iec e i n fo r m an d f a b r i c comb i n ati o n - th at c a n b e wo r n lik e its n a m e :an yti me. a v e r sati l e sh r u g mad e fr o m h a nd sp u n co tto n i n p at c hwo r k an d dyed in n atu r a l indigo .
The Luxury Edit
Made by skilled artisans, slowly, mindfully & to the highest quality Limited Edition ABOVE : 11.11 - E leven | Eleven B e l l ne c kl ac e - a re w earable asse mbl age s o f spi rited objects. Eac h c harm i s m arked w ith pati nas o f ti me's sw eetest mo me nts thre aded togeth er wi th c o ntrasti ng silk pipin g. Eac h pi e c e has i ts ow n ly rical me l o dy, a o ne o f a kin d - u n iqu e sto ry. Pai r thi s ecru silk bell ne c kl ac e wi th a si mple look an d add a twi nkl e to each step.
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11.11 - E leven | E leven Handmade ro ute c ase that beau tifu lly narrate s the j o urne y o f 100% kh adi de ni m. Eac h mate ri al i s e xquisitely pre se nte d wi thi n the c ase but can easily be re mo ve d i f de si re d and th e case u sed to c o ntai n j e we l ry o r c raf ts. Th e exterior o f the c ase i s a handmade n atu ral in digo yard-dye d c hambray khadi fabric. Vi a Ki ngpi ns sto re . 201
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T R A NSFO R M E R S F O UN DAT I O N DI GI TAL E V E N T Wha t d o e s R e gen e r a t i v e A g r i c ul t ur e ha v e to do wi th appare l and de ni m? C l o thi ng i s i nheren tly an agr icu ltu r al p r o d u c t . Y o ur j e a ns c o m e f r o m se e ds that we re gro wn o n a f arm, re ady to be spun in to y arn s an d wo v en i n to f ab r i c . W e wa nt t o unp a c k r ege ne rati ve agri c ul ture ’ s pro mi se s f o r a ho pe f ul f ut u re made of car b o n p o sitiv e t e x t i l e s . R egister f o r Ep .4 “R e g e ne r a t i v e A g r i c ul t ur e & D e ni m” o n Fe bruary 16th at 1 p.m. C ET , whe re we ’ll discu ss #r egene r ativ e ag, # c a r b o ns e q ue s t r a t i o n, s o i l he al th, and #bi o di ve rsi ty, and what thi s me ans for th e d en im su p p l y ch ain. 1 6 th F eb r u ar y 2 0 2 1 R egister v i a th ei r w e b s i t e o r I ns t a g r a m an d c an b e v iew ed o n- d e m a nd a f t e r t he e v e nt. 210
WWW. T R A N S F O R M ERSF OUNDAT ION.ORG/
DI G I TAL E V ENT S & EXHIBITIO NS J E A NS MU SEU M | SWIT ER L A ND T h e Je an s M u seu m i n Zur i c h i s t he wo r l d ’ s onl y brandin d ep e n d e n t mu s e um f o r he a v i l y f a d e d de ni m. It is cu r r en tly h o me t o o v e r 1 4 . 0 0 0 j e a ns a nd de ni m jackets. All n atu r a l l y f a d e d . T h e Jean s M u seu m wa s f o und e d b y Rue d i Ka rre r, al so known as th e Sw is s J e a ns F r e a k . Rue d i wa s bo rn i n the Swiss Al p s i n 1 9 5 9. H e f e l l i n l o v e wi t h d e ni m i n 1973 when h i s fami ly r e c e i v e d t wo p a i r s o f L e v i ’ s j e ans i n a c lothi n g d o n atio n p a r c e l . Give y o u r w o r n - o ut j e a ns e t e r na l l i f e – d o na te the m to T h e Je an s M u se u m . Loc atio n : Köc h listr asse 2 5 , 80 0 4 Zür i c h, S wi t z e r l a nd Open o n r eq u est o nl y - C o nt a c t v i a t he i r we bsi te www.j ean smu seu m . o r g /
Rue di Karre r i n T he Je an s M u seu m.
S P I E L Z E UG W E L T E N M US E UM | BAS E L D e ni m i s an e sse nti al part o f many people’s basic wardro be . Al mo st e ve ryo ne o wns a t least on e de ni m i te m. T o day, ho we ve r, de ni m i s mu ch more than j ust a f abri c f o r c l o thi ng. One migh t th in k that de ni m and art have no thi ng to do w ith each o the r. Far f ro m i t. Many arti sts aro un d th e w orld have di sc o ve re d de ni m as a mate ri al in its ow n ri ght. T hi s uni que spe c i al e xhi bi ti o n sh ow s th e ve rsati l i ty and hi sto ry o f thi s po pular material. It i nc l ude s pai nti ngs by T he Maste r of th e Blu e Je ans f ro m the e nd o f the l ate 17th cen tu ry , j e ans, de ni m j ac ke ts, bags, sho e s, fu rn itu re and e ve ryday o bj e c ts, as we l l as scu lptu res or i nstal l ati o ns suc h as T he S e c re t Garden by Ian B e rry and the Panthe rs by Af ran ( M ilan Art & Eve nts C e nte r) . In thi s e xhi bi ti o n, whi c h f e ature s approximately 125 o bj e c ts, vi si to rs are take n o n a jou rn ey thro ugh the f ac e ts of thi s fascin atin g mate ri al . T hi s spe c i al e xhi bi ti o n w as created i n c o l l abo rati o n wi th Ms. L i z a S no ok from th e Vi rtual S ho e Muse um i n T he Hague. Th ey h ave suc c e e de d i n c o l l e c ti ng and bri ngi ng togeth er i te ms o n l o an f ro m vari o us Euro pe an mu seu ms, pri vate c o l l e c to rs and i nstal l ati o ns f rom galleries and arti sts al l o ve r the wo rl d. T he e x h ibition can o nl y be se e n i n thi s f o rm i n B ase l .. B l ue f abri c wi th a hi sto ry 17 Oc to be r 2020 – 5 Apri l 2021 www.spi e l z e ug-we l te n-muse um-basel.ch
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F O LLO W U S In s t ag r a m : @r a w .a sse m b l y Li n k ed - i n: r a w a sse m b l y & SI GN UP F OR O U R NE W S LE T T E R S H E R E NEXT EDITION A PR I L 2 0 2 1
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