The Responsible and Sustainable Sourcing Magazine - 2nd Edition - Circular Denim

T HE R E SPO N SI B L E & SU STA I NA B L E

SOU RC IN G

Nº 02

PUBLISHED AFTER BREAKFAST • JAN-APRIL 2021

TEXTIL E

.RAWASSEMBLY.

M AG A Z I NE

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

22

O n t he c o v e r Ra wA s s e m b l y ’ s s e c o nd e d i ti o n c o ve r i mage by H& M Fo undati o n f e a t ur e s W a l d e n L a m ( l e f t) c o -f o unde r o f 3D bo dy-sc an j e ans c o m p a ny U ns p un a nd C é dri c Vanho e c k ( ri ght) f o unde r o f Re so rte c s a n i nno v a t i o ns c o m p a ny de ve l o pi ng a smart sti tc h he at di sso l vabl e t hr e a d t ha t a i d s g a r m e nt di sasse mbl y f o r re pai r and re c yc l i ng.

W a l d e n a nd C é d r i c a r e m aki ng a path and wal ki ng o n i t as trai l bl az e rs wi t hi n t he f a s hi o n a nd t e xti l e i ndustry e ac h i n the i r o wn ri ght. B o th G l o b a l C ha ng e A wa r d W i n ne rs and Fashi o n f o r Go o d Ac c e l e rato r p r o g r a m m e a l um ni , U ns p u n and Re so rte c s have sho wc ase d the val ue a nd i m p o r t a nc e o f i nd us t ry c o l l abo rati o n thro ugh the i r o ngo i ng p a r t ne r s hi p whi c h f i r s t r esul te d i n ‘ Re bi rth: di gi tal f i t di sso l vabl e t hr e a d j e a ns ’ i n 2 0 1 9 . T he re bi rth j e ans whi c h are he l d by bo th W a l d e n a nd C é d r i c i n t he c o ve r i mage have be e n c al c ul ate d to re duc e C O 2 e m i s s i o ns up t o 5 0 % c o mpare d to the pro duc ti o n and di spo sal o f a t r a d i t i o na l p a i r o f j e a ns .

I ns i d e t hi s e d i t i o n y o u wi l l di sc o ve r two i n-de pth i nde pe nde nt i nt e r v i e ws wi t h W a l d e n a n d C e dri c o n the i r re spe c ti ve c o mpani e s, s ha r i ng t o - d a t e t he i r j o ur n e ys and i nte nti o ns f o r the f uture o f the f a s hi o n i nd us t r y a nd he a l t h o f o ur pl ane t.

T o d i s c o v e r t he i nt e r v i e ws, turn to page 20 to re ad abo ut Unspun a nd p a g e 2 6 t o r e a d a b o u t Re so rte c s. As we l l as, l e arn abo ut Unspun a nd Re s o r t e c s m o s t r e c e n t partne rshi p l aunc hi ng the ‘ Ge ne si s’ j e ans d e v e l o p e d i n l i ne wi t h t he Je an Re de si gn gui de l i ne s o n page 44 W e ho p e y o u a r e i ns p i r e d wi th o pti mi sm f o r the f uture as we are by b o t h f o und i ng e nt r e p r e ne urs Wal de n and C é dri c , and the i r i nc re di bl e teams.

2

Hello 2021

JANUARY - APRIL 04 1 0-1 1 14-19

MONDAY MORNING MEETINGS | Editors message CONSCIOUS FASHION & LIFESTYLE NETWORKKERRY BANNIGAN CRADLE-TO-CRADLE CERTIFIED™ - What is Cradle-to-Cradle Certification™| C2C - Introducing Artistic Milliners Crystal Clear 3.0 - C2C Certified partners to help

2 0- 25

DENIM UNSPUN | Unspun

26-29

THE FUTURE THREAD | Resortecs® Game-changer Cédric Vanhoeck, co-founder of Resortecs® talks with us about their heatdissolvable sewing threads, collaborations and exploration of newfound ideas through nonstop research and development to aid repair and recycling of textiles, as well as support progress towards a circular economy.

3 0-3 1

THE WOMEN IN DENIM The Women in Denim is an inclusive network of women championing one another within the denim industry. Sharing knowledge, experiences and support, so together a better industry can emerge for the future.

An in-depth interview with Walden Lam, co-founder of Unspun, a fast-moving fashion tech company who creates custom denim jeans through an on-demand system using 3D body scan technology

RawAssembly spoke with Anne Oudard, a sustainable denim designer and member of The Women in Denim crew to learn more about the strength behind the initiative.

33

3 4 - 43

44

BUSINESS AS A FORCE FOR GOOD Denim brands and producers become Certified B Corporations, meeting the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.

DENIM DISRUPTORS Highlighting brands, designers, and thought leaders redesigning denim and pushing the boundaries of responsibly produced denim in the global jeans market.

THE JEANS REDESIGN The Jeans Redesign initiative brings together leading fashion brands, manufacturers and fabric

3 Im a ge : Nobody Denim

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

THE MONDAY MORNING MEETING Ed itors m e ssa ge

In r e cen t y ear s t he d e ni m i nd us t r y ha s be e n po l ari z e d by two f ac to rs o f i ts nature . On t h e one h an d , th e d e ni m i nd us t r y ha s b e e n a huge pl aye r i n waste , o ve rc o nsumpti o n and e xcess pr o d u cti o n as w e l l a s us i ng a r a ng e o f t o xi c c he mi c al s and hi gh l e ve l s o f wate r i n i ts pro duc ti on .

On th e o th e r h a nd , t he d e ni m i nd us t r y ha s e vo l ve d i ts c he mi c al pro c e ssi ng, has starte d re c yc lin g pr o gr ammes at s c a l e a nd ha v i ng t he p ote nti al to be a mo no -mate ri al i ndustry de ri ve d f rom c otto n an d o th e r c e l l ul o s i c f i b r e s ; i t c o ul d be huge l y re ge ne rati ve .

Fo r th is f ir st i ss ue o f 2 0 2 1 , we ha v e f o c use d he avi l y o n the i de a o f waste and e xpl o re a variety of d esign e r s, b r a nd s a nd c o m m e r c i a l s t r ate gi e s that are se e ki ng to mi ni mi z e , c api tal i z e and rede si gn w aste in t he d e ni m i nd us t r y .

So w h at i s w ast e a nd why d o e s t he f a s hi o n i ndustry c re ate so muc h o f i t?

W h at th e i n d u st r y t e nd s no t t o t a l k a b o ut o r i n mo st c ase s e ve n unde rstand i s ho w muc h te xt ile wa ste is cr e ate d i n t he i r s up p l y c ha i ns . T hi s waste re sul ts f ro m many so urc e s rangi ng f rom, m er e ly r el y in g o n s up p l y c ha i n p a r t ne r s de ve l o pi ng the mo st e f f i c i e nt garme nt patte rns i nstead of b r an d s co n tr o l l i ng t he s e t he m s e l v e s ; pl ac i ng hi ghe r waste al l o wanc e s than i s re al i sti c a lly ne e d ed ; f acto r i e s f e a r i ng p e na l t i e s f o r u nde rde l i ve ri ng; l o w-qual i ty mate ri al s c re ati ng hi gher wa stage , as w e l l a s m a nuf a c t ur e r s o v e r -o rde ri ng mo re than 15-20% e xtra f abri c o r yarn to be use d as samp l e y a r d a g e f o r o t he r b r a nds, o r so l d o f f to l o c al marke ts o r f abri c ' j o bbe rs' . Th is edi tio n o f th e Ra wA s s e m b l y ™ m a g a z i ne ai ms to i nf o rm and i nspi re ho w we c an de si gn ou t wa ste .

W e w i ll star t b y l o o k i ng a t t he c o nc e p t o f ' c radl e to c radl e ' , i ntro duc i ng and e xpl o ri ng ho w w e sho u l d b e th i n ki ng a b o ut p r o d uc t s a nd c yc l e s, e nsuri ng that mate ri al s re turn to whe re th ey or i gin ate d .

W e th en d el v e i nt o c o m m e r c i a l c o l l a b o rati o ns dri vi ng a z e ro -waste go al , thro ugh i nte nti o n al m an u factu r i n g, z e r o i nv e nt o r y a nd t e c hno l o gy al l o wi ng pro duc ti o n to shape . Ul ti mate l y we ask the q u e sti o n , h o w a r e we a d a p t i ng a nd c hangi ng the way we de si gn and pro duc e to mi ti gate t h e issu es asso ciate d wi t h wa s t e ?

A t th e h e ar t o f t he Ra wA s s e m b l y ™ m a g a zi ne i s o ur re spo nsi bl e so urc i ng and re so urc e s are a , a m ater i als an d s e r v i c e i nd e x whe r e y o u c a n di sc o ve r who ’ s do i ng what i n de ni m dye & f i ni sh in g in n o v ati o n , r eg e ne r a t i v e f i b r e us a g e , s t re tc h al te rnati ve s, manuf ac turi ng c e rti f i c ati o ns, yarn s & fab r ics p r o d uc e d f r o m wa s t e p l us m a ny mo re i nspi re d and be tte r so l uti o ns. We ho pe thi s will be a se ctio n th a t y o u r e t ur n t o a s a r e s o urc e i nde x and be c o me s c o ve re d i n sc ri bbl e d no te s a n d po st- i t n o te s tha t f o r m p a r t o f y o ur s o urc i ng me e ti ngs and de c i si o ns.

W e co n clu d e w i t h a n i n- d e p t h e xp l o r a t i o n o f vari o us arti san and c re ati ve make rs who are at t h e for ef r o n t o f th e s l o w f a s hi o n m o v e m e nt , bo th i n te rms o f the i r sc al e , the i r atte nti o n to quality a n d th ei r u se o f wa s t e i n t he i r p r o d uc t i on pro c e sse s.

W h i le th i s issu e ha s a s t r o ng d e ni m f o c u s, we ho pe that yo ur re adi ng e xpe ri e nc e i nspi re s an d enab les yo u to m a k e m o r e r e s p o ns i b l e so urc i ng c ho i c e s that i mpac t o the r are as o f yo ur work a n d u n d e r stan d i ng o f t e xt i l e s . A s a n o r g ani z ati o n, we ho pe that thi s i ssue o f the RawAsse mbly ™ sour ci n g magaz i ne a d d s t o t he m o m e nt um o f c hangi ng the narrati ve aro und waste , gro unded in f acts an d o n e t ha t a d v o c a t e s p e o p l e wh o are maki ng a ge nui ne po si ti ve di f f e re nc e f o r pe o ple a n d th e p lan e t. E nj o y !

Thea S p e e c h l e y & K i r r a l y A nt cl i f f Ra wAsse m b l y 4

. R AWA S S EMBLY. mills worldwide to transform how the industry produces jeans.

46

ABOUT THE ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION

48

CIRCULAR ECONOMY CONCEPT & PRINCIPLES

50

58-59

60

62 64-65

66-73

72-73

OUTLAND DENIM As Outland Denim go live with their first Jeans Redesign capsule this January, we ask James Bartle, the founder of Outland Denim to share some of his team's experiences around the project, what's in store for them in 2021, and how he sees the denim industry transform.

GENESIS - UNSPUN Unspun, the 3D body scan jeans company has launched Genesis, its most sustainable pair of jeans yet. Developed as part of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign program, the jeans solve current waste challenges by combining unspun's inventory-free production systems with pioneering globally available best-in-class materials Resortecs® smart stitch threads.

THE MOVE TO NEAR-SHORING To kick-start 2021 and to continue the widespread shift within the industry to transform how denim is designed, sourced and produced, Pakistan based Artistic Milliners acquires Los Angeles site to offer near-shoring services.

CHANGING THE NARRATIVE The Cotton narrative is about to change, and it's refreshing!

WHY GOOD EARTH COTTON To produce the Earth's most ethical cotton – Sundown Pastoral, who make Good Earth Cotton from their 65,000-acre Keytah operation turn traditional farming techniques on their head.

They question the "conventional wisdom" of every stage of the cotton production process.

PIONEERING A NEW ERA OF COTTON. We touched base with John Condilis, Co-founder, at Nobody Denim to discuss what it will take to create a thriving manufacturing industry onshore in Australia, and talk about their new pioneering and traceable collection that brought consumers the world’s first completely traceable collection – from seed through to store using Good Earth Cotton and FibreTrace™.

FIBRETRACE - HOW IT WORKS

7 4 - 77

7 8 - 93

ONE PERSONS WASTE IS ANOTHER PERSONS TREASURE We have picked some of our favourite mills, manufacturers, artists, innovators and creative people saving precious materials from landfill and giving them a new meaning.

DENIM REIMAGINED The New Denim Project 21/22 collection

8 0- 83 84-85

RESPONSIBLE MATERIAL SOURCING Those seeking denim look fabrics in lighter weights for dresses, shirts and trousers that are not from recycled content, but other natural fibres; we present some of our favourites.

THE UPCYCLED EDIT Products that are making a difference

88-89 9 0- 93 94-136 9 6 -97 98 99 1 0 0-1 0 3 1 0 4 -1 05 1 0 6 -1 09 1 1 0 -1 1 1 112 1 1 4 -1 15

1 1 6 -1 1 9 1 2 0 -1 2 1

1 2 2 -1 2 5

PLANQ TEXTILES Making the world a little better every day.

Transforming denim waste into denim Veneer.

RESPONSIBLE SOURCING & RESOURCES - Raw materials and fibres Certifications - Harmful & restricted substances - Social Compliance - Natural fibres types in denim today - Fibre growers, producers & innovators - Yarn & fabrics from waste - Man-made cellulosic fibre - Stretch Alternatives - Discover Japans denim mills working with narrow looms, selvedge denim and indigo dyes, supplying the industry's heavy hitters.

DYES, WASHES & FINISHES - Who's doing what?

SUPPLY CHAIN PARTNERS featuring additional denim mills and manufacturers working to change the industry.

COMPONENTS from biodegradable, natural rubber elastics, organic cotton tabs, sewing threads and naturally dyed trims. Discover our helpful component sourcing guide LEVI'S HISTORY - How it all started,

1 2 6 -1 2 7 1 2 8 -1 3 0 1 32

JACRONS - What are they? and how to decode them BRANDED JACRON PATCHES alternative labelling concepts for jeans fit for both a natural cycle and circular systems.

PLASTIC-FREE, PLANT-BASED BIODEGRADABLE Jacrons alternatives

134

CLEAN WATER AND SANITATION, SDG 6 - Why it Matters To ensure access to safe water sources and

sanitation for all.

136

RIVETS Did you know the rivets on your jeans don't serve a purpose and are purely decorative? Learn why this is a problem in terms of designing for circularity and reducing waste?

STAYING CONNECTED IN A DIGITAL WORLD. STAYING CONNECTED APPS

5

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

. R AWASSEMB LY. The RawAssembly Magazine is a must-read media inspiration for everyone interested in responsible, sustainable, and innovative solutions for the fashion & textile industries. The magazine represents an enhanced global resource for sustainable and regenerative fibre growers, yarn & fabric mills, responsible & ethical manufacturers, brands, creative professionals and consumers. The RawAssembly magazine aims to improve and increase its readers' knowledge about sustainability and connect with other sustainable creators.

Founded in Australia & London, The RawAssembly Magazine has launched to fill the void for informed, creative and avant-garde readers from industry through to consumers who are passionate and committed to sustainability. Today, we hope the magazine will grow to build a network of sustainably-minded writers, innovators and creative insiders worldwide that want to leave their sustainable mark on a time of unprecedented change and action.

FO LLOW US @ raw.a sse m bl y S I GN U P T O O U R NE W SLETTER www.r a wa s s emb ly.com

6

.R AWA S S EMBLY.

138 - 1 4 7 140 -14 1

As the pandemic continues to prevent us from travelling, connecting and sourcing in person, some of the leading denim mills and manufacturers have developed their apps allowing them to connect directly with their customers in a whole new way.

TRUCKER JACKET | LEVI'S

142 - 1 43 144 - 1 45

DIGITAL FASHION Companies showing the world that clothing does not have to be physical to exist.

- The Fabricant - Positive Fibers DIGITAL COMMERCE FASHION

147 148 - 1 4 9

152 - 1 67 154 155 1 5 6 -1 5 7 158 1 6 0 -1 6 1

162 - 1 6 5

DIGITAL & TRACEABLE FASHION Traceability from seed to shelf; helping people make better choices when purchasing clothing in the real world.

- Fibretrace - Textile Genisis - Oritain PACKAGING Rethinking our approach and embracing innovative materials and packaging systems that are renewable, reusable, compostable, recyclable and biodegradable.

- Plastic-free Packaging Innovations - Reusable Packaging innovations - Plantable packaging - Responsible packaging movement - Protecting our Oceans LIFE BELOW WATER, SDG 14 - Why it Matters To conserve and sustainably use the world's ocean, seas and marine resourcesCOLOUR THEORY BUAISOU Celebrating the history of natural indigo and denim in Japan

O ur magaz i ne i s i nte rac ti ve ; pl e ase c l i c k thro ugh the pages to di sc o ve r mo re c o nte nt.

Enj o y!

7

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

AC KN OWLE DGEM ENTS

FOUN D ER / P UBL I S H E R / E D ITO R - IN - C H IE F Thea S p e ech ley C O-ED I T OR S: K ir r a ly An tcl iff Ben G eo r ge ILLUST R A T I O NS Yan ki D ar lin g

GET IN T OUCH In fo@ r aw asse mb l y . c o m

A ll c on t e n t i s su b je c t t o co py r i g ht a nd ma y not be re p ro d u c e d i n a ny f o r m w i t ho ut w r i t t en permission from t h e publ i s her .

The opi n ion s, b e l i e f s a nd v i ew po i nt s ex pr es s ed by the v a riou s a u t ho r s w i t hi n o ur ma g a z i ne a n d website d o n o t n e c es s a r i l y r ef l ect t he o pi ni o ns , belie fs a n d v ie wp o i nt s o f R a w A s s em bl y ' s t ea m membe rs.

The R esp o n si b le & S us t a i na b l e S o ur c i ng Maga zin e , b y R aw A s s e m b l y , i s a n i nd e p e nd ent d igita l an d i n - p r i n t m a g a z i ne p ub l i s he d q u ar te r ly b y: R awAs semb ly P ty L t d .

ABN: 13 6 2 9 5 4 9 7 5 7 www.r aw asse mb l y . c o m

SPON SO R S Fr om time to ti me , we wi l l p a r t ne r wi t h car efully sel ecte d c o m p a ni e s t o p r o d uc e stor ie s ab o u t. We w i l l a l wa y s b e c l e a r a b o ut th ose sto r i es w ith a m e nt i o n o f " P r e s e nt e d By". We tak e o n p a r t ne r s who a r e l i k e - m i nd e d an d wh o se sto r ies f a l l wi t hi n o ur e d i t o r i a l guid el in e s. We also wa nt y o u t o k no w t ha t we take o n th e se p ar t ne r s t o c o nt i nue t o g r o w, b u ild , an d d el iv e r s t o r i e s t ha t m a t t e r . I f y o u h ave an y q u estio n s a b o ut t hi s , p l e a s e r e a c h ou t to u s v ia in fo@ r a w a s s em bl y . co m

8

GET FE ATURE D If yo u are i nte re ste d i n be i n g featu red o r c o ntri buti ng arti c l e s & f e atures to ou r f uture e di ti o ns, pl e ase c o n tact u s at: Exhi bi t@rawassembly .com

A DVERTI SE WITH US If yo u wo ul d l i ke to advertise w ith RawAsse mbl y, pl e ase c o ntact u s at the a@rawassembly .com i nf o @rawassembly .com Pl e ase no te that we o nl y ac c e pt a dvertisin g f ro m c o mpani e s that are c o m mitted to maki ng a c hange & wo rki ng tow ards a be tte r f uture f o r bo th pe o ple an d th e plan et.

We may, at o ur abso l ute di sc re tion , refu se to publ i sh any adve rti se men t w ith ou t gi vi ng any re aso n. No c o ntrac t is formed be twe e n yo u and us unti l we a ccept y ou r adve rti se me nt f o r publ i c ati o n an d issu e yo u wi th a val i d tax in voice

. R AWA S S EMBLY.

168 - 1 8 1 16 9 - 1 75 17 4 - 1 75 17 6 - 1 8 1

through the contemporary collective Buaisou as they revive the craft from crop to closet.

THE EDIT Items we love from Buaisous online store.

PUSH-PULL TEXTILES A small design studio located in the Blue Mountains of NSW, Australia creating captivating textile concepts from existing materials ART OF REINVENTION Repairing saves the world from more waste it also creates unique pieces of wearable art and one of a kind jeans.

18 2 - 1 8 5

DEADLY DENIM Connecting People To Aboriginal Culture Through Artwork On Denim

18 6 - 1 8 9

RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION AND PRODUCTION SDG 12 - Why it Matters Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns.

19 0 - 19 1

LIMITED EDITION Buy less, Buy better. Showcasing artists & artisans making mindful, limited edition pieces.

19 2 -2 0 1 19 4 - 1 99 20 2- 2 0 5 20 6 - 2 09

ART IN THE MODERN AGE Australian artist Rachael Wellisch captures the imagination through her artworks and installations as she weaves inspiration from landscapes and ancient earth forms with repurposed textiles and plant-derived Indigo dye.

LAUNDRY -AT HOME CARE What can we do to prevent microfibres from releasing into our waterways and oceans from home?

ASK THE INDUSTRY RawAssembly asked industry innovators, designers, textile mills and thought leaders in the realm of sustainability.

DIGITAL EVENTS & EXHIBITIONS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT GOALS - Our commitments

21 0 - 2 16 217 21 8 - 2 2 1

RESOURCES

9

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

CON SCIOUS FA S HI ON A ND LIF ESTYLE N E TWORK Given its global reach, the fashion and lifestyle industries are uniquely positioned to collaborate and engage on the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), in particular on confronting the climate crisis and ensuring a resilient post-pandemic recovery.

The Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network is an online platform for industry stakeholders, Governments and NGOs to showcase actions, report progress and share solutions accelerating the sector's contribution to advance the Decade of Action to deliver the SDGs by 2030. The collaborative community of practice aims to inspire innovative ideas, connect industry leaders, enable new partnerships, and enact sustainable change.

Registered initiatives will be published publicly and form the basis of periodic analysis and evaluation of how the fashion and lifestyle sectors are driving change and implementation of the SDGs. The network is managed by the Division for Sustainable Development Goals, UN Department of Economic and Social Affairs (DSDG/DESA), the United Nations Office for Partnerships and the Conscious Fashion Campaign. It is a dedicated space for the fashion and lifestyle industries on the “Partnerships for SDGs” – the United Nations’ global registry of voluntary commitments and multi-stakeholder partnerships contributing to the advancement of the SDGs. Registered initiatives should show a concrete contribution to the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals and the objectives of the network, respect the principles of the United Nations and follow the SMART criteria - being Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Resource-based with Time-based deliverables.

J O I N TO DAY w w w .susta in abl edev el opmen t.un . o r g /pa r t ner s hips/ Fashi on Network

10

About Conscious Fashion Campaign The Conscious Fashion Campaign, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, creates high-visibility fashion event partnerships to accelerate global industry engagement to advance the Decade of Action to deliver the Sustainable Development Goals by 2030. The campaign educates and mobilizes the fashion sector to action solutions for social, economic, and environmental change.

www.consciousfashioncampaign.com

11 I M A GE: B R ES TO N- KENY A

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

12

MU SEU M OF OLD NIMES , FR A NC E | D ENI M R O O M

THE EA RL I EST USE OF DENIM REFERS TO A SERGE MATERIAL ( A TWILL FABRIC COMMONLY USED IN MILITARY UNIFORMS ) .

H ISTORI C A L LY, FA BRI C S WE RE NA M E D A F T E R T H E I R

PLACE OF

O RI G I N

DENIM WAS FIRST MADE IN THE 16TH CENTURY AT A PLACE

CALLED NIMES IN FRANCE. THE NAME ‘DENIM’ COMES FROM THE FRENCH WORDS

‘SERGE DE NIMES’

( FABRIC OF NI M E S ) , WH I C H L AT E R EVOLV E D TO

'DE NIM'

T HE FA BRI C T H E N WA S NOT T HE COTTON DENI M W E

BLEN D O F SI LK A N D WO O L .

KNOW TODAY. I T WA S A TODAY ’S

A L L -COTTON

D E N IM WA S F I RST C RE AT E D IN ENG L A N D A ND L AT E R PERFEC T E D I N AMERICAN

MILLS.

13

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

W h at i s C rad l e to

C radl e C radl e to Cr a dle C e rt i f i e d ™ i s a g lob ally r e co gn ized m e a s ur e o f s a f e r , mor e sustain ab l e p r o d uc t s m a d e f o r t he c i r cu la r e co n o my .

Pr od u ct d esign e r s, m a nuf a c t ur e r s , a nd b r an d s w o r ld w i d e r e l y o n t he C r a d l e t o Cr a d le Cer ti fied P r o d uc t S t a nd a r d a s a tr an sformati v e p athwa y f o r d e s i g ni ng an d mak i n g p r o d u c t s wi t h a p o s i t i v e im p act o n p e o p l e a nd p l a ne t . F r o m fr a gr a n ces to f lo o r ing , t - s hi r t s a nd j e a ns to water b o ttl es an d wi nd o w t r e a t m e nt s , th ou san d s o f p r o d u c t s a r e C r a d l e t o Cr a d le C e r tified . Wh a t ’ s m o r e , a g r o wi ng n u mb er o f b r an d s, o r g a ni z a t i o ns a nd s ta n d ar d s al so r ec o g ni z e C r a d l e t o Cr a d le™ Cer ti fied as a p r e f e r r e d p r o d uc t s ta n d ar d fo r r e sp o ns i b l e p ur c ha s i ng d ecision s.

Cr a d le to Cr ad l e™ i s a s us t a i na b l e b u sines s str ategy t ha t m i m i c s t he re generati v e cy cle o f na t ur e i n whi c h waste is r eu se d . I n n a t ur e , whe n a t r e e o r an im al di es o r cr e ate s wa s t e , t ha t wa s t e b r eaks do w n an d b e c o m e s nut r i e nt s f o r an oth er p r o cess; th i s i s t he g o a l o f t he Cr a d le to Cr ad l e ap p r o a c h: c r e a t i ng a c y clical p r o ce ss i n st e a d o f a l i ne a r o ne like the cr ad l e to gr a v e a p p r o a c h. T he main ob j ecti v e o f t he c r a d l e t o g r a v e s tr a tegy i s to d ec r e a s e wa s t e . T he c rad le t o cr ad le ap p r o a c h g o e s a s t e p fur ther an d attemp ts t o e l i m i na t e wa s t e altogeth e r .

T he key ch allen ge in c r e a t i ng C r a d l e t o Cr a d le Ce r tified ™ de ni m j e a ns i s t he c o m p lexity o f th e ne t wo r k o f p a r t ne r s involved .

Disc ove r w i th i n o u r c r a d l e - t o - c r a d l e s ec tion co mp an i es who ha v e a c hi e v e d c rad le to cr ad l e g o l d a nd p l a t i num c er tificatio n s in d en i m a nd a c c e s s o r i e s an d a r e h er e to h e l p y o u wi t h y o ur d en im dev el o p men t.

Lear n ab o u t th e pr o d uc t s t a nd a r d s her e

14

I M AG E : A rt i st ic M i l l i n e rs X E n d ri m e c o l l ab o rat ion

I m a g e : Ar t i s t i c M i l l i n e r s X E n d r i m e c o l l a b o r a t i o n

Artistic Milliners Crystal Clear 3.0 | Certified Gold A r t i s t i c Mi l l i ne r s i s a ve rti c al l y i nte grate d de ni m manuf ac ture r, l o c ate d in Ka r a c hi , P a k i s t a n, p r oduc i ng c radl e -to -c radl e c e rti f e d™ de ni m f o r so me of t o d a y ' s l e a d i ng j e a ns brands.

A r t i s t i c M i l l i ne r s c r e a t e d the i r dye te c hno l o gy i n partne rshi p wi th c he mical d y e c o m p a ny D y s t a r bac k i n 2016, de sc ri be d as o ne o f the " C l e ane st i nd igo d y e i ng p r o c e s s i n t he wo rl d" . Pre vi o usl y ado pte d by G-S tar bac k i n 2017, t he i r t e c hno l o g y he l p ed the brand c re ate the i r " Mo st S ustai nabl e Je an e ver", a p r o d uc t m a d e wi t h the wo rl ds f i rst C radl e -to -C radl e Go l d C e rti f i c ation d e ni m . F a s t f o r wa r d t o l ate 2020; Arti sti c Mi l l i ne rs have re vampe d thi s same t e c hno l o g y f ur t he r t o make i t e ve n c l e ane r than what was po ssi bl e then .

T he i r l a t e s t p r o d uc t i s c al l e d ' C rystal C l e ar 3.0 ( C C 3.0) , whi c h i s C radl e -toC r a d l e G o l d c e r t i f i e d , use s GOT S -c e rti f i e d c he mi c al s and adds the addi ti on al s t e p o f l o we r i ng i m p a cts at the de ni m f abri c f i ni shi ng stage .

C r y s t a l C l e a r 3 . 0 i s a g ame -c hangi ng dye te c hno l o gy f o r the de ni m i ndus try c e nt r e d a r o und a n o r gani c f i xi ng age nt that ne e ds no sal t and 70% f e w er c he m i c a l s t o c o nv e nt i o nal i ndi go dye i ng me tho ds. C rystal C l e ar use s prer e d uc e d l i q ui d i nd i g o that re qui re s no addi ti o nal wate r o r sal t; i t c an re c over up t o 1 0 0 % i nd i g o . I t i s a S al t-f re e si ngl e wate rl e ss dye i ng te c hni que .

T o a c hi e v e t hi s , l i k e any c o nc re te game -c hangi ng te c hno l o gi e s to day an d p r o d uc t f o r t o m o r r o w, i t al l starts wi th c o l l abo rati o n.

H o w d o e s i t w o r k & wh o's in volved ?

C r y s t a l C l e a r 3 . 0 i nc o rpo rate s Je ano l o gi a' s G2 D ynami c te c hno l o gy, the f irst o z o ne t e c hno l o g y ( O 3 F i ni sh) f o r c o nti nuo us f abri c . G2 e qui pme nt c re ate s t h e s a m e e f f e c t a s e xi s t i n g de ni m f i ni shi ng me tho ds but use s si gni f i c antl y l ess wa t e r a nd no ha r m f ul c he mi c al s to pro duc e mo re l ase r-f ri e ndl y mate ri al s.

G 2 D y na m i c s i m p l i f i e s the f abri c f i ni shi ng pro c e ss, i nc re asi ng pro duc ti v ity a nd r e d uc e s c o s t s , b r i ngi ng f urthe r be ne f i ts duri ng garme nt f i ni shi ng; T hi s is a c c o m p l i s he d i n a z e r o di sc harge pro c e ss, savi ng wate r and wi tho ut c he mi cals o r t he r m a l e ne r g y . T h e Oz o ne te c hno l o gy he l ps c l e an o f f the e xtra i ndigo a nd e l i m i na t e s b a c k s t ai ni ng as we l l as re ac hi ng darke r bl ue o r bl ac k shades a nd i m p r o v i ng t he c o ntrast whi l st at the same ti me e l i mi nati ng the re ddish c a s t . F ur t he r m o r e , t hi s o z o ne tre atme nt i mpro ve s c ro c ki ng c o nsi de rabl y.

A no t he r s i g ni f i c a nt s a v i ng i s that tradi ti o nal te c hno l o gy al l o ws aro und 80% o f t he f a b r i c t o b e us abl e , whe re as G2 te c hno l o gy al l o ws up to 95% o f th e m a t e r i a l t o b e us a b l e & pro f i tabl e .

43%

WAT E R SAV I NG

15%

( us i ng 3 . 0 L t/m ) c o m p are d to c o nve nti o nal f i ni s hi ng ( us i ng 6 .0 L t/m ) and m e rc e ri z e d f i ni s hi ng ( us i ng 6 . 2 L t/m )

EN E RGY SAVING

( 96K w h ) c o m p a r e d t o c o n v e n t i o n a l f i n i s h 100 k W h a n d m e r c e r i ze d f i n i s h i n g ( U s i n g 115 k W h )

40%

STEA M SAVING

( 2. 45 t o n / h ) c o m p a r e d t o c o n v e n t i o n a l f i n i s h ( u s ing 4. 3 t o n / h r ) a n d m e r c e rized finishing ( u s i n g 4. 3 t o n / h r )

w w w. ar tisticmilliner s.com

15

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RA J BY | PAKI ST AN CRA DL E TO CRA DL E - P L A TI NU M B e l uga i s a range o f Raj by T e xti l e ’ s de ni m f abri cs manuf ac ture d usi ng a pro c e ss and c o mpo ne nts, in clu din g f i bre and c he mi c al s, that are de si gne d to be safe for pe o pl e and the pl ane t.

T o me e t the ac ti ve c yc l i ng re qui re me nt, Raj by has c o mmi tte d to usi ng the B e l uga de ni m f abri c e xclu sively in appare l pro duc ts so l d by re tai l e rs wi th take -back programs i n pl ac e and e sti mate d e xpe c te d c yc l i ng rate s f or su ch pro duc ts. Raj by c o l l abo rate d wi th C & A, whi c h l ed th e re se arc h and quanti f i c ati o n f o r thi s i ni ti al c e rti fication thro ugh i ts “ We T ake i t B ac k” Pro gram and wi l l track active c yc l i ng rate s thro ugh thi s pro gram.

Fabri c s range f ro m 4o z to 13o z , wi th 2x1, 3x1, 4x1 or Bu ll D e ni m c o nstruc ti o n.

T hi s c e rti f i c ate c o ve rs Belu ga Den im f abri c s i n mu ltiple pro duc t vari ati o ns. T he f abri c c an be made f ro m a c o mbi nati o n o f di f f e re nt se que nc e s o f warp and w eft, w ith the same c o mpo ne nts.

Fabri c C o mpo si ti o n Warp: 100% C o tto n, We f t: 100% C o tto n

www. rajby.com/

SO O RTY | P A K I S TAN CRAD LE T O CR A D L E - G O L D

Denim f ab r i c d e si g ne d a nd m a d e us i ng tec h n ique s su ch as z e r o wa t e r wa s t e i nd i g o rope dyein g.

Ma d e with So o r ty ’ s p r o p r i e t a r y Ze r o W a s t e W ater dyei n g tech n o lo g y .

T h is cer ti ficate co v er s t he f o l l o wi ng p r o d uc t s : Un lim ited v ar iatio n s o f D e ni m F a b r i c m a d e wi t h C otton , E lastan e, and P o s t - I nd us t r i a l W a s t e fro m Soor ty 's p r o d u ct i o n l i ne ( 5 % t o 3 0 %) A b ou t: S oor ty is P ak istan 's l ar g e s t v e r t i c a l l y i nt e g r a t e d d enim man u f actu r e r a nd i s a t t he f o r e f r o nt o f th e cr eati o n o f d en im f a b r i c s a nd j e a ns , wi t h a s pec ia l emp h asi s o n qua l i t y , c o s t a nd d e l i v e r y of their pr o d u cts.

https://soorty.com/

C radle to

C radl e

16

AR TIST I C M I L L I NER S

|

PAK IS TAN

CRAD LE T O CR A D L E - P L A TIN U M

DYLA N F AB R I C is a de ni m f a b r i c d e s i g ne d t o be use d to p r oduc e d e n i m j ean s . P r o d uc t i s p r o d uc e d f r o m c o tto n, w hich is th e n sp u n d y e d i n i nd i g o s o l ut i o n a nd wo ve n in to fab r ic b e fo r e b e i ng c ut a nd s e wn i nt o d e ni m j e ans.

T h e fa b r i c is d e si gn e d i n c o l l a b o r a t i o n wi t h G - S tar Raw & DySta r a n d p r o d u ced b y A r t i s t i c Mi l l i ne r s .

C er tific atio n I ssu ed : O c t o b e r 2 0 2 0

www. artisticmilliners.com

SA I T EX | VI ET N A M CRA DL E TO CRA DL E - GO L D

G-S tar RAW D e ni m Pro duc t re pre s en ts a range o f de ni m styl e s de si gne d an d manuf ac ture d ac c o rdi ng to C radl e to C radl e ® de si gn pri nc i pl e s at the Gold level.

Al l styl e s have be e n pro duc e d at Saitex in Vi e tnam.

T he pro duc t i s so l d/ re f e rre d to as Cradle to C radl e C e rti f i e d™ Go l d G-S tar RAW Pro duc t o r as G-S tar’ s pro duc t sty le n ames as l i ste d i n the pro duc t spe c i f i c ation sh eet.

T hi s c e rti f i c ate c o ve rs G- S ta r R AW Deni m P ro d u ct pro duc ts:

https://www.sai-tex.com/

SO O RT Y | P A K I S TAN CRAD LE T O CR A D L E - G O L D

T h e SMAR T LO O P l ine i nc l ud e s a s e l e c t i o n o f f abri c s ranging fr o m l igh t to he a v y we i g ht i n b o t h s tre tc h and n on-str e tch co n str u c t i o ns .

T h is cer tificate co v ers t he f o l l o wi ng p r o d uc t s : S mar t Lo o p Jean s, Sm a r t l o o p J a c k e t s , S m a r t L oo p S hi rts, S mar t L o o p O v e r alls , S m a r t L o o p S k i r t s , S mart L o o p S h or ts, Smar t l o o p D r e s s e s

https://soorty.com/

17

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

T h e ke y ch al len ge i n c r e a t i ng C ra d l e t o C r adl e Cer tified™ d e ni m j e a ns i s t he c omp le x ity o f th e ne t wo r k o f p a r t ne r s in volve d .

T h e C2 C Cer ti fied ™ P r o d uc t S t a nd a r d r equir e s r e - th i n k i ng e v e r y a s p e c t o f pr oduc t d esign an d m a nuf a c t ur i ng .

C2 C c er ti fied p r o d uc t s c a n o nl y b e a ch iev ed th r o u gh c o l l a b o r a t i o n, a nd tr a n sp ar e n cy th r o u g ho ut t he s up p l y c h ain w i th a h igh d e g r e e o f d e t a i l , which is u n u su al in s t a nd a r d p r a c t i c e s but op e n s u p n ew p a r t ne r s hi p s a nd lon gte r m r e latio n sh i p s t ha t wi l l c ha ng e the way a b r an d d e s i g ns f o r e v e r .

T h e mo r e co mpl e x t he p r o d uc t , the h ar d e r it is to a c hi e v e ' G o l d ' o r Platinum' ce r tificat i o n.

• Tr y a n d sti ck to o ne f i b r e t y p e ( a l l na tu r al ) o r a mo n o - m a t e r i a l i ns t e a d o f c r eating co mp lex bl e nd s .

• Tr y to su b stitu te c o m p o ne nt s f r o m the te ch n ical cy cl e t o c o m p o ne nt s fr om th e b i o l o gi c a l c y c l e wi t ho ut c omp r o mi si n g d esi g n o r q ua l i t y . L o o k a t how th ey can b e r e m o v e d a t e nd - o f pr oduc t- l ife.

C radl e to

C radl e Image: Lukas Heartmann

18

H e r e we l i s t a ha nd f ul o f partne rs wi th c e rti f i e d C 2C p r o d uc t s t ha t c a n he lp.

F A B R IC S : A r v i nd Ra j b y Saitex P i o ne e r D e ni m Soorty A r t i s t i c M i l l i ne r s A r t i s t i c F a b r i c ( f i r s t G o l d C 2C us i ng r e c y c l e d d e ni m ) j us t t o na m e a f e w

J A CRO N P A TCH ES

IN TE R L IN IN G P r o d uc e r / S up p l i e r : F re ude nbe rg C o t t o n i nt e r l i ni ng f o r wa i s t b a nd

Pro duc e r/ S uppl i e r: Jo hann Mue l l e r AG NAT URA C EL L ( Go l d l e ve l ) 100% c e l l ul o si c , o rgani c c o tto n

P R E M IU M S TR E TC H

DY ES

P r o d uc e r / S up p l i e r : R OIC A E nv i r o nm e nt a l l y c o m pati bl e S t r e t c h F i b e r ( Ro i c a ® V550)

Pro duc e r/ S uppl i e r: D YS T AR D yS tar® Indi go Vat 40% S o l ution

Pro duc e r/ S uppl i e r: L OWAT AG./ C HARMING L ase r-c ut j ac ro n patc h SEW I NG TH REA DS Pro duc e r/ S uppl i e r: C o ats C o tto n ( Go l d l e ve l )

(pl e a se note thi s de gr a de s faster compared to c onve nti ona l f ossi l f ue l derived stretch, i t d oe s not f ul l y bi ode gr a de.

P O C K E T L IN IN G P r o d uc e r / S up p l i e r : ZA B E R & ZU B A I R O r g a ni c c o t t o n p o c k et l i ni ng

19

LE ADING AN INTENTIONAL PATH FORWARD

U

n sp u n i s s hi f t i ng t he p a r a d i gm o f th e f a s hi o n i nd us t r y b y d i s r u pti ng th e p r o c e s s a s we l l a s t he p ro duc t.

Na med o n e o f Ti me M a g a z i ne s 1 0 0 B e s t I nv enti o ns of 201 9 h av in g o nl y l a unc he d t wo y e a r s pri o r, Un sp u n is a f ast - m o v i ng f a s hi o n- t e c h s tart-up with o ffices i n H o n g Ko ng a nd S a n F r a nc i s c o .

Un sp u n ’ s amb itio u s m o d e l c r e a t e s c us t o m de ni m jea n s th r o u gh an o n- d e m a nd s y s t e m us i n g 3D b od y scan te ch n o l o g y a nd f i t a l g o r i t hm s , t o c re ate each in d i v i d u al ’ s uni q ue s i z e whi l s t r e duc i ng waste th r o u gh in t e nt i o na l man u factu r i n g an d z e r o inven to r y . Si mu ltane o us l y , a tea m at U n sp un a r e wor ki n g to d ev el o p a 3 D weavi n g mach i n e t ha t wi l l p r od u ce gar me n ts t o s ha p e generatin g l imi ted wa s t e .

Wha t’ s mo r e , U ns p un h as b e co me s o l ut i o n p r ovid e r s w i th s o f t wa r e an d tech n o lo gy th a t c a n b e easily ad ap ted fo r us e b y oth er f ash io n co m p a ni e s of w h i ch U ns p un alr ea d y h as n u m e r o us p ar tn er sh i p s u n d e r wa y a s th ey r eco gn i se the v i t a l im p or tan ce o f o p e nne s s an d co l lab o r ati o n in solving so me of t he b igge st issu e s t he indus tr y an d o ur wo r l d cu r r en tly faces. Fr o m t he instore ex p er i en c e o f a full-bo d y scan t o t he i r r ecen tly i n tr o d u ce d d i r e c t to co n su mer c ha nne l th r ou gh th e l aunc h o f a mo b ile scan n e r a p p , cu stome r s can n o w o r d e r th e p er f ect p air o f f i t t i ng jea n s fr o m th e co m f o r t o f th eir h o me – an y whe r e i n th e wo r ld .

I M A GE A BO V E: U NS P UN

In con v er satio n w it h C o - f o und e r a nd C hi e f Hustl e r Wa lde n Lam, U n s p un’ s g e nui ne c o m m i t m ent to long-ter m su stai na b l e i m p a c t a nd t r a ns p are nc y was e v id en t fr o m t he i r d o wn- t o - e a r t h ‘ o p e n bo o k’ ap p r o ach . Sh ar i n g i ns i g ht t o t he d e ni m i ndustry, th e po w er in p ar tne r s hi p s a nd U ns p un’ s v i si o n to r ed u ce glo b al car b o n e m i s s i o ns b y 1 % t hr o ugh a loc alise d , au to mat e d a nd i nt e nt i o na l p r o d uc ti o n system giv e s u s o p t i m i s m f o r t he f ut ur e o f f ashi o n an d pr o tecti n g o u r e a r t h.

Fr om co mf o r t to s t y l e , i t ’ s we l l k no wn hi ghq u ality d e n i m jean s o nl y g e t b e t t e r t hr o ug h we ar.

Al tho ugh i n to day’ s hi gh-spe e d rac e f ast fash ion brands are mo re o r l e ss de stro yi ng de ni m th rou gh c he mi c al and re so urc e -i nte nsi ve pro cesses, o f te n wi th he al th i mpac ts o n garme nt wo rkers to ac hi e ve the c l assi c wo rn-i n l o o k.

Ac kno wl e dgi ng the c o nve nti o ns that h ave be c o me o f de ni m pro duc ti o n, Wal de n di scu sses “ T he i ndustry, e spe c i al l y de ni m i t’ s a l i t tle bit c o unte ri ntui ti ve be c ause yo u spe nd a l o t o f effort to dye yarns al l way up to dark Indi go . T hen y ou spe nd so muc h e ne rgy and c he mi c al s to wash it do wn to a l i ght c olou r.”

Fo r Unspun, the first two ye ars o f busin ess saw the m so urc i ng raw de ni m f abri c - often maki ng use o f excess f ro m f abri c mi l l s - as Unspun we re u n able to f i nd a manuf a ctu rer to c re ate a l i ght colou r wash de ni m with ou t harmf ul c he mi c a ls an d usi ng l o w i mpac t clean te c hno l o gi e s.

ado pti o n.”

Al o ng the i r jou rn ey vi si ti ng do z e ns of f ac to ri e s, the Un spu n te am no ti c e d it w as typi c al to f i nd Ozon e and L ase r f i nish in g te c hno l o gy mach in es si tti ng unuse d in th e c o rne r o f the factory f l o o r.

A si tu ation re f l e c te d i n many areas of pro gre ssi ve clean te c hno l o gy and i t s slow uptake i n the i ndu stry , as Wal de n hi ghl i gh ted “ T he re are aspects of the i ndustry where th e te c hno l o gy is th ere, i t’ s j ust an i ssu e w ith

In ti me Unspun c o nne c te d wi th Ho ng K on gbase d manuf ac ture r Fro ntl i ne who we re open to wo rki ng wi th the m i n a pro c e ss that do e s n ’t u se bl e ac h o r PP ( po tassi um pe rmanganate ) spray .

Unspun de ve l o pe d the i r f i rst c usto m was h lin e Gl ac i e r that was re l e ase d e arl i e r i n 2020 w h ich Wal de n share d no w make s up aro und a t h ird of c usto me r o rde rs. T he Gl ac i e r wash i s de veloped usi ng a T o ne l l o ® mac hi ne whi c h re duc e s w ater c o nsumpti o n by 95% , c he mi c al use by 80% an d l ase r te c hno l o gy by Je ano l o gi a re pl ac e s t h e u se o f sandbl asti ng and PP spray.

21 I MA G E A B O V E: U N S P UN

I M A G E: H A X / V I T A L Y

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

I M AG E: T H E U NS P U N FO UNDERS (FROM LEFT) WALDEN LAM, BET H ES PO N N ET T E A N D KEV I N M A RT I N

Whe n i t co mes t o d e s i g n e l e m e nt s i n t he de ni m wor ld me tal tr im s a r e a t r a d i t i o n a s r i v ets we re fir st ad d ed to j e a ns f o r s t r e ng t h a s workwe ar b u t as Wald en v o c a l i s e s “ c us t o m e r s are no t wor k in g i n go ld m i ne s a ny m o r e ” . W he n i t c o me s to d en im d esign W a l d e n e nc o ur a g e s b e i ng mo re inte n tio n al w ith m e t a l t r i m s a nd q ue s t i oni ng “ Is th is co n v e n ti o n o r c a n we d e s i g n a wa y t o no t use so m u ch me tal?”

c o mmi tme nt and re so l ve the i ssue of prec o nsume r waste i n garme nt manuf ac turin g, a 3D we avi ng mac hi ne i s c urre ntl y i n the re search an d de ve l o pme nt stage . “ C o nc e ptual l y the 3D w eavin g mac hi ne wi l l al l o w us to ge t to as c l o se to zero waste as po ssi bl e , c urre ntl y c ut and se w is arou n d 10-15% o f f abri c waste but wi th 3D weavin g, all the yarns that go i nto the pro duc t wi ll en d u p i n the garme nt.” Unspun i s ho pi ng to create its f i rst garme nt f ro m th e 3D avi ng mac hi ne by th e c o m m i t t e d t o we e nd o f 2021.

Speaking to this intentional U n s p u n ha s d esign , Un sp u n r e c e nt l y el i m i n at i ng e l e c t r o p l a t i ng intro d u ce d re m o v a b l e metal b u tto n s tha t a l l o w p r oc es s e s o f m e t a l i n i t s Unti l the 3D w eavin g sim p l e d etach m e nt f r o m mac hi ne i s c o mplete an d s u p p l y c ha i n, w i t h z i p p e r s te c hno l o gy to ke ep textiles th e gar me n t w it ho ut t he n eed f o r scisso r s t o c ut o f f b ei n g t h e l a st st e p i n t he 2 0 2 1 suc c e ssf ul l y wi thi n th e loop th e w ai stb an d , a c o m m o n i s c o mme rc i al l y available, tim e- sav i n g practice Unspun has partnered w ith in te x ti le r ecyc l i ng . A s B l ue Je ans Go Green a USwell as, Un sp u n ha s c o m m i t t e d t o e l i m i nati ng base d o rgani sati o n re purpo si ng wo rn-ou t den im elec tr o p latin g p r o c e s s e s o f m e t a l i n t he i r suppl y and Unspun’ s c utti ng ro o m waste i n to h ome ch ai n , w i th zi p p e r s b e i ng t he l a s t s t e p i n t he 2021 i nsul ati o n. goa l.

Wal de n i s aware thi s i s no t a syste mati c solu tion , To mo v e Un spun t o wa r d s t he i r z e ro -waste “ i t se e ms l i ke we are shi f ti ng a pro blem from

22

on e ind u str y to th e ne xt ” b ut a c k no wl e d g e the y cu r r en tly h av e cu t wa s t e a nd t hi s d o wnc yc l i ng p r ocess d iv e r ts tex t i l e s f r o m l a nd f i l l .

The co n ce p t o f ci r c ul a r f a s hi o n i nd us t r y whe re textile w aste b e c o m e s f e e d s t o c k f o r f uture mater i als i s mo v ing c l o s e r t o r e a l i t y e v e ry day.

Illu str ated mo st r e c e nt l y b y f a s hi o n b r a nd L e vi ’ s Wellthr e ad ™ l in e whi c h i nc l ud e d t he brands p op u l ar 5 0 2 d en im j e a ns m a d e f r o m o r g a ni c c o tto n an d C i r cu l o se® - Re ne wc e l l ’ s a d v a nc e d m a te ri al comp o se d o f 5 0 % r e c y c l e d c o nt e nt s o urc e d fr om w o r n seco n d g e ne r a t i o n j e a ns . A d y nami c p ar tn er sh i p d emo ns t r a t i ng t he i m p o r t a n c e o f indus tr y su p p o r ti ng i nno v a t i o n a nd b u i l di ng awar en ess ar o u n d d e s i g ni ng f o r a r e s i l i e nt c irc ul ar futur e .

In 2 0 1 9 U n sp u n wa s s e l e c t e d i n t he s i xt h batc h of Fa sh i o n f o r G o o d ’ s P l ug a nd P l a y A c c e l e rato r Pr ogramme , an i ni t i a t i v e t ha t a i m s t o s uppo rt innovato r s th r o u g h i nd us t r y m e nt o r i ng a nd the op p or tu n i ty f o r co r p o r a t e p a r t ne r s hi p s t hro ugh d evelo p i n g p ilo t p r o g r a m s .

As a k ey sp eak e r i n a r e c e nt F a s hi o n f o r Go o d

r e b i r t h: d i gi t al f i t

I MA GE : UN S P UN

d i ssol v ab l e t hr e ad j e ans c ol l ab or at i on b e t we e n Re sor t e c s and U nsp un

Maste rc l ass, Wal de n re c o unte d “ L o o ki ng at ou r mo de l o f i nno vati o n we tho ught i t was almost i mpo ssi bl e to l and a pi l o t wi th o ne o f the bran ds.

S o , we l o o ke d aro und the ro o m and o ne of th e i nno vato rs i n the same batc h was Re so rte cs.”

A B e l gi um base d start-up, Re so rte c s i s c reatin g a he at di sso l vabl e sti tc hi ng thre ad that bri ngs ease to garme nt di sasse mbl y ai di ng te xti l e recy clin g syste ms and the mo ve to wards a c i rc ul ar e con omy .

Ove r the thre e -mo nth pro gram, the two pi on eerin g start-ups wo rke d suc c e ssf ul l y to ge the r w h ich re sul te d i n l aunc hi ng a c o l l abo rati ve produ ct ti tl e d Re bi rth: di gi tal f i t di sso l vabl e thre ad jean s.

T o day, al l -whi te sti tc hi ng thre ads used in Unspun’ s c usto m j e ans are Re so rte c ’ s di ssolvable i nno vati o n, whi c h wi l l al l o w the de ni m Rebirth j e ans to c i rc ul ate i nto the f uture he at di sman tlin g te xti l e re c yc l i ng syste m c urre ntl y be i ng e xplored

by Re so rte c s. T he o rgani c al l y f o rme d part n ersh ip be twe e n Unspun and Re so rte c s bro ught ben efits to bo th i nno vati o ns as e ac h c o mpany brou gh t di f f e re nt ski l l s to the tabl e . Fo r Unspun “W e are IMAGE: U N S PU N

23

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

“We hope to be the micro-ecosystem of what the future fashion industry should look like. I think being able to crosspollinate and have material researchers and engi neers working in fashion will allow us to move forward and solve some of the biggest challenges.”

r e b i rth : d i g i ta l f i t d i ssol v a b l e th r e a d j e ans c o l l a b o r a ti o n b e t we e n R e s o r te c s a n d Un s p u n

good at iter ati n g q ui c k l y , f a i l i ng a nd ha vi ng the feedb ack an d R e s o r t e c s a r e s t r o ng a t q uanti f yi ng im p act th r o u gh t he l i f e c y c l e a s s e s s m e n t ( L C A) side o f th in gs.”

Un sp u n d emo n s t r a t e l e a d e r s hi p i n i ndustry tr an sfo r matio n a he a d o f t he c ur v e , a f a cto r that cou ld b e l in k e d t o t he d i v e r s e d i s c i p l i ne s that mak e u p th e co m p a ny . F r o m s o f t wa r e e ngi ne e rs, d esign e r s, mech a ni c a l e ng i ne e r s , c o m p u tati o nal geom ete r s, p atte r n m a k e r s a nd p r o d uc t d e ve l o pe rs to name a few . “W e ho p e t o b e t he m i c r o - e c o syste m of w h at th e fu tu r e f a s hi o n i nd us t r y s ho ul d l o o k like. I th in k b e in g a b l e t o c r o s s - p o l l i na t e and have mate r ial r esear c he r s a nd e ng i ne e r s wo rki ng i n fa sh i o n w ill al lo w us t o m o v e f o r wa r d a n d so l ve some o f th e b igg e s t c ha l l e ng e s . ” As a car b o n ab at e m e nt f o c us e d c o m p a ny , Wal de n men ti o n s th e r ec e nt r e p o r t p ub l i s he d b y Mc Ki nse y & Co mp an y an d G l o b a l F a s hi o n A g e nd a , Fashi o n on Climate : H o w t he f a s hi o n i nd us t r y c a n u rge ntl y act to r e d u ce it s g r e e nho us e g a s e m i s s io ns. As Wa lden h i gh l igh t s “ i t p a i nt s a v e r y r e a l i s t i c pi c ture of wh at h alv i n g c a r b o n e m i s s i o ns s c e na r i o s wo ul d look l ik e” an d re f e r s t o a k e y p a r a g r a p h i n the r ep o r t th at d i scu s s e s - b e y o nd a l l t he l o w hangi ng fr uit th e in d u str y ne e d s t o d e c o up l e v a l ue gro wth fr om v o lu me gr o wt h.

Dr aw in g a l in k to U ns p un’ s o n- d e m a nd m o de l that takes an acti v e ro l e i n r e d uc i ng c o ns um pti o n by

24

pro duc i ng o nl y what i s ne e de d, maki ng less bu t maki ng i t be tte r and drawi ng atte nti o n back to val ue i n pro duc t qual i ty.

Re c e ntl y Unspun f o rme d ano the r harmon iou s re l ati o nshi p as Jo nathan C he ung a f o rme r design er at L e vi ’ s – c o mmo nl y re f e rre d to as a de nim god j o i ne d Unspun’ s bo ard o f advi so rs. A re l ation sh ip Wal de n says i s no t symbo l i c as the y’ re re gu larly in c o mmuni c ati o n, re c e i vi ng advi c e , l i nks to articles as we l l as i ntro duc ti o ns to ke y i ndustry play ers.

T hi s e xpe rti se and gui danc e Wal de n e xpresses is al re ady havi ng a re al i mpac t, and c urre ntly Un spu n i s wo rki ng wi th Jo nathan o n a sl i ghtl y looser fit styl e that the y ho pe to l aunc h e arl y 2021.

Whe n i t c o me s to mo vi ng the i ndustry tow ards a c i rc ul ar and re ge ne rati ve e c o no my, most of th e so l uti o ns to o ur gre ate st c hal l e nge s al ready exist and as Wal de n c o mmuni c ate d we j ust n eed to ado pt the m, and we must wo rk to ge the r.

In Oc to be r 2020, Wal de n was anno unc ed as on e o f the 400 yo ung l e ade rs o n the 2020 Ge n .T List, a l i st c o mpri si ng so c i al e ntre pre ne urs, i nnovators, c re ati ve s, athl e te s and i nspi ri ng i ndividu als l e adi ng Asi a to wards a po si ti ve f uture .

C o ngratul ati o ns Wal de n o n yo ur re cogn ition i n the S ustai nabi l i ty c ate go ry f o r pion eerin g i nno vati ve te c hno l o gi e s to addre ss fash ion s c arbo n e mi ssi o ns.

THE FUTURE THREAD

I MA GE : R E S O R T E C S ®

w

h en i t c o m e s t o t he f ut ur e o f te xti l e r e cy c l i ng , g a r m e nt d i s a s s e m bl y and tr an s i t i o ni ng t o wa r d s a c irc ul ar e co n o m y , g a m e - c ha ng e r s C é dri c V a n h o e ck , Van ess a C o una e r t a nd t he i r t eam at R esor te cs® ar e i nno v a t i ng , c o l l a b o r a t i ng and exp lo r i n g n e w f o u nd i d e a s t hr o ug h non-sto p r esear ch an d d ev e l o p m e nt .

The co n ce p t: a h e a t - d i s s o l v a b l e s t i t c hi ng t hre ad th at a llo w s e ase o f g a r m e nt d i s a s s e m b l y , to ai d r ep air an d r e cy cling o f t e xt i l e s , a s we l l a s s u ppo rt p r ogress to w ar d s a c i r c ul a r e c o no m y .

O ver th e p h o n e, Ra wA s s e m b l y s p o k e wi t h C é dri c as h e se cu r e d hi s b i k e a nd he a d e d i nto the R esor te cs® h ead qua r t e r s l o c a t e d wi t hi n MAD – H ome o f Cr eato r s, a s p a c e f o r s up p o r t i ng c r e a ti ve s, innovato r s an d so c i a l e nt r e p r e ne ur s i n t he c e ntre of Br u sse ls. “M AD ho m e of cr eato r s i s a g r e a t p la ce f o r u s. Th e c l o s e con n ecti o n s w i th o t he r su stain ab l e d e s i g ne r s , th e su p p o r t fr o m t he MAD co mmuni c a t i o n team an d co ach e s , a s well a s th e acce s s t o t he atelie r i n w h ich y o u c a n fin d di ffer e n t ty p e s o f a n indus tr i al sew in g m a c hi ne , is of gr eat h el p , us e a nd su p p o r t to u s” s ha r e d Cédr ic.

de ve l o pe d to di f f use whe n e xpo se d to variou s l e ve l s o f he at i n ac c o rdanc e to the pro ducts en duse .

C é dri c e xpl ai ns that pro duc ts suc h as shoes an d mattre sse s c an be c o nstruc te d wi th a l o w er h eat re ac ti ng thre ad aro und 160 de gre e s C e l siu s, as the y are no t pro duc ts that are i ro ne d, and i t low ers the ri sk o f i nc i ne rati ng, burni ng o r o xi datin g th e mate ri al s duri ng he at-di sasse mbl y. Whe reas th e bi o -base d nyl o n thre ad me l ts at 200 degrees C e l si us, maki ng i t i de al f o r sti tc hi ng threads in garme nts, al l o wi ng the m to wi thstand i ron in g at hi gh te mpe rature s wi tho ut f al l i ng apart. Smart S ti tc h si mpl i f i e s the pro c e ss o f re mo vi n g zips, butto ns and se parati ng se ams.

Re so rte c s® me c hani c al e ngi ne e r W illiam Al l o uc he , “ we hi re d hi m l ast summe r, Jul y 2019.

He i s wo rki ng on th e di smantl i ng, so th e h eat di smantl i ng to o ls an d o ve n. T o make sure w h en garme nts are stitch ed wi th o ur thre ads th ey wi l l al so be take n apart,” says C é dri c before shari ng the i r vi sion of a l arge c o nti nuo us oven i n whi c h garme nts can be di smantl e d at an ave rage o f 3 min u tes.

T hi s o ve n wi l l con n ect to an auto mati c sortin g l i ne , si mi l ar to Fibresort i n Amste rdam.

T HE CONCEPT: A HE AT-DISSOLVABLE STITCHING THRE AD T HAT ALLOWS E ASE OF GARMENT DISASSEMBLY, TO AID REPAIR AND RECYCLING OF TEXTILES, AS WELL AS SUPPORT PROGRESS TOWARDS A CIRCUL AR ECONOMY.

R ecyc l in g i n th e f a s hi o n an d tex tile i nd us t r y wor ldw id e i s a c o m p l e x issue. Th e time , co s t s a nd man u al l ab o u r re q ui r e d to d isasse mb l e g a r m e nt s b ack to th e ir in d i v i d ua l c o m p o ne nt s ha s be e n a con stan t b ar r ier hi nd e r i ng t he up t a k e o f g arme nt r ecyc lin g w i th i n the i nd us t r y . A s we l l a s t he ne e d for a d v an ce s i n te c hno l o g y , t o b e a b l e t o re c yc l e ga r me n ts o f mu l ti - f i b r e c o m p o s i t i o ns , d y e s and fin ishe s to p r o d u ce a s a f e p r o d uc t t ha t i s n’ t si mpl y d own cy cled .

Ac cor d in g to th e E l l e n M a c A r t hur F o undati o n, fewer th an 1 % o f f i b r e s p r o d uc e d e a c h ye ar is r e p r o cesse d t o p r o d uc e ne w g a r me nts, r ep r esen tin g a l ar g e l o s s i n v a l ue t ha t c o ul d be oth er w i se cap tu r e d .

R ecogn i si n g th is c ha l l e ng e , Re s o r t e c s ® has innovate d a r ev o l ut i o na r y f ut ur e t hr e a d wi t h i n the con fin e s o f ci r cu l a r d e s i g n a nd wa s t e r e d uc ti o n.

Na med ‘ Smar t St i t c h’ , Re s o r t e c s ® d i s s ol vabl e th r ead co me s i n m ul t i p l e c o m p o s i t i o ns s uc h as p olyol ef in s an d b i o - b a s e d ny l o n, whi c h ha v e be e n

T he pro c e ss o f makin g thi s c o nc e pt c ome to l i f e , C é dri c i nf o rms “is c o nti nuo us non -stop e nhanc e me nts” and i t has be e n the Re sortecs® te ams pe rsi ste nt and passi o nate wo rk e th ic th at has be e n the f o undati o n to the i r gro wth.

S i nc e 2017, the ye ar C é dri c de c i de d to devote hi s ti me to re se arc hi ng and te sti ng the con cept o f S mart S ti tc h, Re so rte c s® has wo n the Global C hange Award by H& M Fo undati o n whi c h aided f urthe r de ve l o pme nt thro ugh a year-lon g Inno vati o n Ac c e l e rato r Pro gram.

Fro m Ne w Yo rk to Ho ng Ko ng and S to c kholm, th e thre e -ste p ac c e l e rato r pro gram gui de d Re sortecs® thro ugh a suppo rti ve syste m that al l o wed th em to advanc e the i r te c hno l o gy and bui l d a stron g gl o bal ne two rk. Me e ti ng di f f e re nt pe o pl e i nvolved i n the same ni c he o f sustai nabl e f ashi o n, clean te c hno l o gy and pro duc ti o n we re o ne o f the man y be ne f i ts o f the pro gram hi ghl i ghte d C é dri c.

Re so rte c s® re c o gni se partne rshi ps and c o -

27

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

c r eati n g as a f u n d a m e nt a l s t e p t o wa r d s bui l di ng a c ircu l ar eco n o m y , t hr o ug h s ha r e d i d eas and r esour ce s. R ev ea l i ng t he i r f i r s t c o l l a b o rati o n ‘R eb i r th ’ i n No v e m b e r 2 0 1 9 , wi t h a d di ti o nal Glob al Ch an ge Aw a r d W i nne r ' s U ns p un. A pai r o f Unspu n ’ s d i gitally - f i t t e d , 3 D wo v e n d e ni m j e ans c on str u cted w ith Re s o r t e c s ® d i s s o l v a b l e thre ad wa s d esign e d and d e v e l o p e d , s ho wc a s i ng the best o f b o th in n o v a t i o ns a nd t he i m p o r t anc e o f c ollecti v e acti o n t o wa r d s s us t a i na b i l i t y .

Reflecti n g o n th e c o l l a b o r a t i o n, C é d r i c r e c o gni se d the par tn er sh i p e nha nc e d b o t h s t a r t - up s , o n a tec h n i cal an d e nv i r o nm e nt a l l e v e l , a s w e l l as gr ow in g th e ir v isi b i l i t y i n t he b us i ne s s t o b usi ne ss sec to r o f th e d en i m i nd us t r y .

In 2 0 1 9 R e so r tecs ® j o i ne d t he F a s hi o n f or Go o d A cceler ato r P r o gra m , f o und e d b y C & A F o un dati o n in a sso ci atio n wi t h num e r o us l e a d i ng f ashi o n c omp an i es su ch a s Ke r i ng a nd S t e l l a Mc Cartne y.

A ccep tan ce an d p a r t i c i p a t i o n i n b o t h a c c e l e rato r pr ogr ams h av e b e e n p i v o t a l i n Re s o r t e c s ® l aunc h a n d co n tin u ed d e v e l o p m e nt , ho we v e r l o ng-te rm fina n ci n g f o r sca l a b i l i t y a nd p r o v i d i ng f ashi o n c omp an i es w ith the i r s o l ut i o n i s e s s e nt i a l .

In a fin an cin g r e p o r t p ub l i s he d e a r l y i n 2020 by C&A an d B o sto n C o ns ul t i ng G r o up , r a w m a te ri al s

and e nd o f l i f e re gardi ng re use and re c yclin g are the mai n stage s re qui ri ng i nve stme nt alon g th e val ue c hai n. T he y are al so i de nti f i e d as the stages whi c h re c e i ve the l e ast ve nture c api tal in terest, due to c o mpl e xi ty i nvo l ve d i n unde rs tan din g the i nno vati o n syste ms and l o nge r l e ad times re qui re d f o r re se arc h and de ve l o pme nt before mass marke tabi l i ty. T he re po rt i de ntifies th e l arge st gap i n f i nanc i ng i s be twe e n start-u ps mo vi ng f ro m an i ni ti al pi l o t pro duc t to fu ll-scale c o mme rc i al i sati o n.

T o f urthe r e nc o urage and suppo rt re c yc l i ng in th e i ndustry at a gl o bal l e ve l f o r a c i rc ul ar econ omy , i nve stme nt o ppo rtuni ti e s at the start a n d en d o f the pro duc t l i f e c yc l e ne e d to be c aptured an d suppo rte d l o ng-te rm. Re so rte c s® are c urren tly in an i nve stme nt ro und to rai se €800 i n c o nvertible l o ans.

Another challenge Cédric recognises for Resortecs® to so l ve i s e f f i c i e ntl y trac ki ng the f o o t prin t of S mart S ti tc h thre ads, o f whi c h a traceability te c hno l o gy i s c urre ntl y be i ng i nve sti gated. Th is i s ne c e ssary f o r the di sasse mbl y stage to w ork smo o thl y, re c o gni si ng whi c h thre ads ha ve been use d, to he at to the appro pri ate te mperatu re. “ We are wo rki ng o n the trac e abi l i ty o f g armen ts made wi th Re so rte c s® thre ads, as we l l as th e c o mmuni c ati o n o n Re so rte c s® to wards en dc usto me rs wi thi n the te xti l e pro duc t.” Recen tly i ntro duc i ng Re so rte c s® L abe l s to al l o w g armen ts to be i de nti f i e d vi sual l y.

Re i nf o rc i ng the i ndustry-wi de c hal l e nge i nvolved

rebirth: d i gi t al f i t dissolvabl e t hr e ad jeans colla b or at i on between R e sor t e c s and U nsp un

28

Cé d r i c and V ane ssa i n N e w Yor k f or t he G l ob al C hange A war d A c c e l e r at or Pr og r a m, 2 0 1 8

in tex tile r ecyclin g , o f und e r s t a nd i ng wha t ga r me n ts ar e mad e o ut o f , whe r e t he y ha v e c o me fr om , h o w th e y h av e b e e n d y e d , p r o c e s s e d and fin ishe d .

Cédr ic e x p l ain s h o w t hi s p o s e s a c ha l l e ng e t o textile r ecyclin g in g e ne r a l “ a s s o m e t i m e s wi th old ga r men ts, f o r e x a m p l e i n t he 8 0 s t ha t h ave b een d yed w i th che m i c a l s t ha t a r e no l o ng er accep ted in th e ma r k e t , o r i n E ur o p e und e r the R EACH legi sl atio n t he y wo ul d no t p a s s . I f y o u th r ead th e m d o w n a nd r e us e t he m f o r g a r me nts, you ar e mak i n g n e w g a r m e nt s f o r a m a r k e t wi th mater i als th at ar e no t l e g a l , b ut y o u d o n’ t kno w it, a s y o u can n o t s e e i t i n t he g a r m e nt o r a sse s it” .

Un itin g as an i n d u s t r y t o c o l l a b o r a t e , t o p ut a n etwo r k in p lace fo r s m a l l t o l a r g e s c a l e f a s hi o n b u sinesse s to b e a b l e t o b ui l d a t r a c e a b l e system alo n g th e e nt i r e v a l ue c ha i n, C é d r i c vi e ws wou ld b e a ste p to wa r d s s a f e r e c y c l i ng . T hi s r eq u ire s, h o w ev er , c o m m i t m e nt f r o m g o v e rnme nt wor ldw id e, “p r ef era b l y e v e n a g l o b a l l e g i s l ati o n on tr a ce ab le gar m e nt s , o n t he c i r c ul a r e c o no my p r acti ce”.

Du e t o Co v i d - 1 9 , Re s o r t e c s ® ha s b e e n d e l a ye d i n th e de v e lo p men t a nd t e s t i ng o f t he d i s a s s e mbl y lin e a n d in d u str i al i s a t i o n o f Re s o r t e c s ® t hr e ad p r od u cti o n . D u r in g t hi s t i m e Re s o r t e c s ® ha s b een a se mi - fin al is t i n t he E ur o p e a n S o c i a l In n ov ati o n ‘ R ei mag i ne F a s hi o n’ C o m p e t i t i o n

and thro ugh wo rksho ps and me nto ri ng he lped to c l ari f y Re so rte c s® so c i al i mpac t strate g y for the f uture . “ B ase d o n the di sc ussi o ns o n social i mpac t, we bui l t a massi ve so c i al i mpac t c an vas i n whi c h di f f e re nt S ustai nabl e D e ve l o pme n t Go al s have be e n i nc o rpo rate d and se ve ral mi l e sto ne s mappe d f o r the c o mi ng 10 ye ars.”

On No ve mbe r 26th 2020, Re so rte c s was anno unc e d as o ne o f the thre e wi nni ng projects f ro m the ‘ Re i magi ne Fashi o n’ c o mpe ti ti o n, se l e c te d f ro m a to tal o f 766 appl i c ants f ro m ac ro ss Euro pe .

S ne ake rs c o nstruc te d usi ng S mart S ti tc h and the i ndustri al pro duc ti o n o f Re so rte c s® sti tc hi ng thre ads i n di f f e re nt c o l o urs f o r den im appl i c ati o ns are o n the ho ri z o n f o r Re so rtecs® .

T he l o ng te rm ho pe s f o r thi s pro gre ssi ve t h in kin g start-up i s f o r S mart S ti tc h to be c o me an i ndustri al c o mmo n, wi th a c o mpl e te l y trac eable thre ad. C o l l abo rati o n, i nve sti ng i n start-ups from raw mate ri al and e nd o f l i f e stage s, as we ll as gl o bal go ve rnme nt re i nf o rc e me nt, i s e sse n tial for the i ndustry to advanc e to wards c i rc ul ari ty .

Whe n aske d what hi s o ne pi e c e o f advi c e t o pro spe c ti ve te xti l e i nno vato rs wo ul d be , C édric re spo nde d “ pe rse ve ranc e ” , o f whi c h we are grate f ul , as Re so rte c s® c o nti nue s to trans form the i ndustry wi th the i r humbl e pe rse ve rance.

29

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

T h e Women in Denim is an inclusiv e net w o r k o f w o men ch a mp i o n i n g o n e a n other within the denim industry. Sh a r i n g kn o w l ed g e, exp er i en ces a n d s u p por t s o togethe r a be tter industry ca n emerg e f o r t h e f u t u re.

Ra w As s em bly s poke w ith Anne Oudard a s u s t a i n a b l e d en i m d es i g n er a n d m e mber of The Women in De nim cre w t o l ea r n mo re a b o u t t h e s t ren g t h b e hind the initiative .

30

An n e, ca n y o u t e l l us a b o ut Th e W o m en in D e ni m ?

The Wo men in D e ni m i s a commu n ity aime d a t e m p o we r i ng all wo men i n th e de ni m i nd us t r y .

It sta r te d w h en i n S e p t e m b e r 2019, L u ci e Germser a nd Sa b ine K ü h ln ( fr o m S p o r t s we a r inter natio n al) o r ga ni s e d a p a ne l d isc u ssio n cal led « T he W o m e n i n Den im » at B lu e zo ne ( t he d e ni m sectio n o f M u n i ch F a b r i c S t a r t tr ad esh o w ). Wo m e n f r o m t he d en im i n d u str y w e r e i nv i t e d o n stage to sh ar e th e i r e x p e r i e nc e .

After th e ev en t, t he p a ne l l i s t s car r ie d o n tal k in g a nd t ha t ’ s ho w th e c o mmu n ity w a s b o r n.

Wh o h a s been p a rt o f Women in D en im s o f a r?

The

The W o me n in D e ni m g a t he r s a la r ge co mmu n i ty o f wo m e n i n th is i n d u str y. We s t a r t e d a s a gr oup o f in te r n ati o na l c r e a t i v e s , con su l tan ts, mar k e t i ng d i r e c t o r s , p r od u cti o n man ag e r s … a nd a s we gr ew w e als o i nt r o d uc e d tech n ician s an d se a m s t r e s s e s .

The co mmu n i ty no w c o v e r s p r etty mu ch al l th e s e c t o r s o f t he indus tr y, fr o m f i b r e s up p l i e r s to gar me n t m a nuf a c t ur e r s an d r e tailer s. W e ’ r e ho p i ng to r epr e se n t al l t he a r e a s a nd p ositi o n s o f th e d e ni m i nd us t r y , all a r o u n d th e gl o be !

W ha t a d v ic e would y ou g iv e t o yo ung fema le professiona ls b e g i nni ng their c a reer in the d e ni m i ndustry ?

D e ni m is a ve ry te c hni c al i nd us t r y i nvo l vi ng a wi de range o f m a c hi ne ry, c he mi c al s and al l s o r t s o f c o mpl e x pro c e sse s. It m i g ht l o o k a bi t i nti mi dati ng at f i r s t . My advi c e i s: do n’ t be af rai d t o a s k q u e sti o ns. No o ne i s bo rn k no wi ng what an o z o ne mac hi ne d o e s ! W e’ re a ve ry we l c o mi ng c o m m uni ty and we c o nstantl y l e a r n f r o m e ac h o the r so do n’ t b e s c a r e d to re ac h o ut.

H o w c an indiv idua ls lea rn m o re a nd c onnec t with The W o m e n i n Denim?

W e ha v e an Instagram ac c o unt @ t h e wo m en in d en im whe re L uc i e i nt ro duc e s ne w me mbe rs o f t he c o m m uni ty and share s ne ws.

T he r e i s a l so o ur L i nke dIn gro up whe r e a l l me mbe rs c an po st the i r t ho ug ht s and que sti o ns o r share t he i r l a t e st pro j e c ts. And we ha v e a newsl e tte r whe re I gathe r ne ws o f t he c o mmuni ty. Anyo ne who wo ul d l i ke to subsc ri be to t he ne w sl e tte r i s mo re than we l c o m e to se nd me an e mai l at a nne @ t he wo me ni nde ni m.c o m C a n y o u sha re with us a ny up c o m i n g spea k er sessions o r e ve nts a nnounc ed for The W o m e n i n Denim for 2021?

We had pl ans o f me etin g in Istanbul and i n D haka bu t w e c an’ t re al l y te l l whe n we ’ l l be able to do that… In the me antime, I am wo rki ng o n o rgani si ng on lin e c o nve rsati o ns to brain storm aro und the c hal l e ng es of the de ni m i ndustry.

Th ese c o nve rsati o ns wi l l be aimed at ampl i f yi ng wo me n’ s vo i ces an d e nc o urage the i r l e ade rsh ip for shapi ng the f uture o f de n im.

I s there a ny thing else you would lik e us to sha re about The W omen in Denim? From y our experienc e or t he influenc e, The W omen in De nim ha s a lrea dy ha d in c hanging the denim industry ?

We ’ re sti l l a yo ung c o mmu n ity but si nc e we starte d i t, I’ve met so many f abul o us wo me n ! Even wi tho ut be i ng abl e to meet in pe rso n, we ’ ve be e n s tron gly c o nne c te d o nl i ne . T ri c i a Carey o rgani se d a ve ry i nspi ri ng series o f wo me n c o nve rsati on s as part o f he r tal ks c al l e d « Takin g the te mpe rature o f the den im c o mmuni ty » o n the me dia Blu e L e nz . I am al so ve ry g lad to have me t Any We l l s, f rom th e pl atf o rm « S i mpl y S uzette » , who m I’ ve be e n c o l l aboratin g wi th o n an arti c l e o n poly ester.

B e i ng part o f thi s c o mmu n ity has bro ught me stre ngth an d a de e p c o nvi c ti o n that al l togeth er we c an ac hi e ve e ve ryth in g w e ho pe f o r!

31

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Grow A Pair Gr ow A Pai r i s a @ wa r p _f a c e d e ni m p a p e r pro j e c t cr eated b y UK b as e d d e ni m he a d D unc a n E l dri dge .

In c o llab o r ati o n w i t h a r t i s a n d e ni m b r a nd s, waste d en im f ab r ic is r e p ur p o s e d i nt o p a p e r usi ng tr ad i tio n al h an dm a d e p a p e r t e c hni q ues that Eldr id ge h o p es to p r e s e r v e f o r f ut ur e g e ne rati o ns.

Text is p r i n te d o n t o t he p a p e r t hr o ug h t r a di ti o nal lette r p r ess tech ni q ue us i ng ha nd c ut wo od type , h owev er f o r th e G r o w A P a i r p r o j e c t t e x t , s c re e np r int i n g tech n i q ue wa s us e d .

Pla n t see d p ack e t s a r e t he f o c us o f t he Gro w A Pair p r o ject, mak i ng us e o f t he r e p ur p o s e d de ni m p ap e r . Th e lef t j e a n l e g c o nt a i ns C o t t o n se e ds (Goss yp iu m), w h i l s t t he r i g ht l e g ho l d s Indi go seed s ( I n d i go f er a ) , t he t wo m a i n r a w i ng r e di e nts th at go i n to th e r e c i p e f o r p r o d uc i ng n atural d en im jean s.

T he se e d pac ke t o wne rs are e nc o urage d to w ait unti l l ate spri ng be f o re c utti ng o f f the hem of th e de ni m pape r j e ans to ge rmi nate the se e ds before pl anti ng the m i n the e arth and watc hi ng th e flora gro w.

A bri l l i ant and tho ught-pro vo ki ng way o f en gagin g c i ti z e ns i n unde rstandi ng the f undame ntal origin s o f a pai r o f j e ans.

T he ti tl e Gro w A Pai r re f e rs to bo th gro wi ng a pair o f j e ans and to an i nsul ti ng re mark i mpl yin g men sho ul d ‘ to ughe n up’ , pe rpe tuati ng to xi c mascu lin e c ul ture and the i mpac ts thi s has o n mal e men tal he al th i n o ur so c i e ti e s wo rl dwi de . T hro u gh th is pro j e c t D unc an ho pe s to rai se awaren ess of me ntal he al th, parti c ul arl y thro ugh the c hallen ges 2020 has i ntro duc e d by gi vi ng al l ‘ pro se eds’ from the pro j e c t to UK c hari ty C AL M that i s l eadin g a mo ve me nt agai nst sui c i de .

L aunc hi ng the Gro w A Pai r se e d pac ke ts in early D e c e mbe r 2020, the re spo nse was e nc o uragin g as the handmade de ni m j e ans se e d pac ke ts sold ou t o n the f i rst day.

@warp_ f ac e

32

BU SINESS AS A FO R CE FO R G O O D B COR POR AT IO N CERTIFIED DENIM

Outland Denim

Saitex International

MUD Jeans

In April 2018, Outland Denim became Australia’s first denim label to become a Certified B Corporation, and the second denim label globally. Outland Denim is a socially minded label that creates premium denim jeans while giving training and employment opportunities to some of the world's most vulnerable people. From there manufacturing facilities in Cambodia, Outland Denim welcome employees from varying backgrounds of vulnerability and social injustice to elevate people into prosperity via opportunity, skills acquisition, living wages and education.

Each year, B Lab releases lists honouring the top-performing Certified B Corps in each Impact Area on the annual Best for the World lists. In 2019, Outland Denim were honourees on the Best for Community list.

In June 2019, Saitex International became a Certified B Corporation.

SAITEX is a privately-owned manufacturing operation specializing in premium denim. Headquartered in Vietnam, with four factories in Dong Nai and one currently in development in Los Angeles, SAITEX is the first apparel factory in Asia and the only large-scale manufacturer of denim with B Corporation Certification. Working with brands such as Outerknown, Eileen Fisher, Madewell and Tommy Hilfiger, SAITEX is LEED certified, Bluesign approved and is also certified as Fair-Trade.

Using the latest innovation technologies in responsible denim production SAITEX is focused on reducing its environmental impact on water, waste and energy as well as ensuring social equity.

Certified B Corporation since January 2015, MUD Jeans are a Netherlands based denim brand that initiated the fashion concept ‘Lease A Jeans’. The concept represents a new consuming philosophy that is about using instead of owning. Mud Jeans wants to accelerate the transition to a circular economy in the fashion industry. MUD Jeans have been honourees in the Best for the Environment list for 2015, 2016 and 2018 in B Corps Best for the World lists. Since 2015 MUD Jeans has completed the B Corp assessment three times improving their score from 91.2 to 124.7. MUD Jeans say ‘The higher score is due to improvements in corporate governance, value to customers and our efforts to measure and reduce our impact on the environment.’

www.outlanddenim.com.au @outlanddenim

www.sai-tex.com @saitexdenim

www.mudjeans.eu @mudjeans

33

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

D E NI M DI S R U P TOR S

I MA G E: H N S T

H i g h l i g ht i n g b ran ds , des ig ners , and t ho ug ht lea ders re d es i g n i ng denim and pus hing t he b o u n d ar ies of res p ons ibly pro duced denim in t he g lo bal jeans mar ket .

34

HNST H NST as th e n ame s ug g e s t s i s a b r a nd b ui l t o n the eth os o f h o n esty wi t h t he c a t c hp hr a s e ‘ nothi ng to h ide’. H NST states ' W e wa nt t o c ha ng e t he way the textile in d u str y cu r r e nt l y wo r k s b y r a i s i ng t he bar and sh owi n g it i s p er f e c t l y p o s s i b l e t o d e s i g n a n d make p r emi u m, h igh - q u a l i t y j e a ns a c c o r d i ng t o c i rc ul ar econ o my p r i n ci p le s . ' H N S T d e ni m j e a ns f e ature u n scr ew ab le an d r e us a b l e b ut t o ns , a nd a l l f abri c and stitc h in g yar n s ar e 1 0 0 % c e l l ul o s e - b a s e d t o e nsure zer o micr o p l asti c s he d d i ng s f r o m t he i r pro duc ts.

To inc r e ase ease o f r e c y c l a b i l i t y m e t a l r i v e ts have b een el imi n ate d fr o m d e s i g ns , i ns t e a d , e m bro i de ry stitc h es r e in f o r ce a r e a s c o m m o nl y s up p o r te d wi th r ivets. Th e p atch e s o n t he b a c k o f e a c h p a i r a re made fr om FSC an d O EK O - T E X c e r t i f i e d J a c r o n p a pe r wi th infor mati o n lab el s p r i nt e d o nt o t he i ns i d e po c ke t u sing Cr ad le to Cr a d l e C e r t i f i e d i nk . Ma d e i n the EU, H NST jean s co n tai n m o r e t ha n 5 0 % r e c y c l e d c o tto n wh ic h h as co me f r o m m e c ha ni c a l l y r e c y c l ed j e ans in Ge r man y an d th i s i s f ur t he r b l e nd e d wi th Gre e k cotton an d Ten cel t hr o ug h t he E ur o p e a n Spi nni ng Gr ou p in B el giu m b e f o r e b e i ng wo v e n i n I t al y, wi th p r od u cts man u fac t ur e d i n P o r t ug a l . A t t he j e ans, en d -o f- u se cu sto m e r s c a n r e t ur n t he i r p r o duc ts to H NST f o r r ecyclin g b a c k i nt o t he c i r c ul a t o r y syste m.

H NST ar e co mmi t t e d p a r t i c i p a nt s o f T he Je ans R ed esi gn P r o j ect, a n i ni t i a t i v e b y t he E l l e n M ac Arthur Fou n d ati o n . L ear n m o r e o n p a g e 4 4.

I MA G E : H N S T

“ W e wa n t t o c ha n ge t he w a y t he t ext i l e industry c ur r e n t ly wo rk s by r a i s i n g t he ba r a n d s ho wi ng i t i s per fec t l y po s s ib le t o d es i gn a nd m a k e pr em i u m, hi gh - q ua l i t y j ea ns a c c o rd i n g t o circular ec o n o m y pri n c i pl e s . ” - HN ST

E .L .V Den i m An upc yc l e d de ni m brand de si gne d and produ ced i n East L o ndo n i n partne rshi p wi th l o c al B l ackh orse L ane Ate l i e r, E.L .V D e ni m re c l ai ms unwanted jean s and re purpo se s the m i nto c o nte mpo rary pieces, i n l i ne wi th the i r z e ro -waste e tho s. Any remn an ts f ro m pro duc ti o n are gi ve n to wo rl d-re no w n artist Ian B e rry who use s de ni m as hi s art mediu m.

S o urc i ng de ni m f ro m vi ntage ware ho use s across the UK and ke e pi ng pro duc ti o n l o c al su pports E.L .V D e ni m’ s l o c al i se d busi ne ss mo de l , redu cin g the i r f o o tpri nt. T hro ugh upc yc l i ng, sti l l f un ction al de ni m mate ri al i s re val ue d, re di re c ti ng produ cts po ssi bl y de sti ne d f o r l andf i l l as we l l as redu cin g the pre ssure o n natural re so urc e s to produ ce vi rgi n raw mate ri al s f o r ne w de ni m.

I MAG E : E .L.V D E NIM

35

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Sevent y + M o c h i Sea so n less, d u ra b l y d e s i g ne d d e ni m mad e u sin g r e c y c l e d m a t e r i a l s wi t h emp h asis o n d e s i g ni ng o ut wa s t e i s t he miss io n b e h i n d v e g a n b r a nd S e v e nt y + Moch i . P r o d u ced i n l i m i t e d q ua nt i t i e s th r o u gh Ar ti sti c F a b r i c M i l l s i n P a k i s t a n, with a b r an d H Q i n L o nd o n, S e v e nt y + Moch i ar e w o r k ing t o wa r d s t he i r m i s s i o n of cir cu l ar ity t hr o ug h t he i r t hi nk i ng an d d e si gn p r o c e s s b y wo r k i ng c l o s e l y with th e ir G R S c e r t i f i e d r e c y c l i ng p l a nt .

In cl u d i n g r ecycle d c o nt e nt i n t he i r d e ni m p r od u cts, Sev en t y + M o c hi ’ s C i r c l e B a c k initiativ e also en c o ur a g e s c us t o m e r s t o r etu r n th e ir d e ni m a t i t s e nd - o f - us e t o b e r e so ld , r ep u r p o s e d , o r l a s t l y r e c y c l e d b ack in to th e sys t e m t o p r o v i d e f e e d s t o c k for f u tu r e d en im p r o d uc t s .

Seve n ty + Mo c hi are committed p ar ticip an ts o f T he J e a ns Re d e s i g n Pr oject, an ini t i a t i v e b y t he E l l e n MacAr th u r Fo u n d a t i o n. L e a r n m o r e o n p age 4 4.

I M A G E: S EV EN T Y + M O C H I

www .se v e n tymo c hi . c o m /

H i ut Den i m C o Hi ut de ni m do e s o ne thi ng, an d on e thi ng o nl y and that’ s maki ng den im j e ans. Whe n the We l sh manufactu rin g to wn o f C ardi gan whi c h on ce h ad B ri tai n’ s bi gge st j e ans factory c l o se d do wn wi th hundre ds losin g j o bs, Hi ut D e ni m re c o gnised th e i mpo rtanc e o f pre se rvi ng th e skills sti l l i n the c o mmuni ty, gi vi n g people the i r j o bs bac k, and bri ngin g jean s manuf ac turi ng bac k to th e local are a. Fo unde d i n 2011 wi th a mission to make qual i ty, no t quan tity , Hiu t D e ni m’ s smal l pro duc ti o n ru n s an d sl o w f ashi o n appro ac h use selvage de ni m so urc e d f ro m Japan as w ell as Ital y’ s C andi ani D e ni m Mi l l . In early 2020 Hi ut D e ni m l aunc he d a limited c o l l e c ti o n o f 100 j e ans i n pa rtn ersh ip wi th C andi ani D e ni m usi ng their 100% bi o de gradabl e pl ant-base d Coreva stre tc h te c hno l o gy de ni m.

Hiu t D e ni m o f f e rs a f re e re pai rs policy on the i r j e ans f o r l i f e , to e nsu re th eir pro duc ts re mai n i n use and valu ed.

I M A G E: H I U T DEN I M C O .

36

www.hi utde ni m.c o .uk/

MU D Jeans M U D Je an s wa nt t o c r e a t e a wo r l d witho ut w aste . Fo u n d e d i n 2 0 1 2 wi t h a f o c u s o n th e p r i n ci p le s o f c i r c ul a r d e s i g n, r e g i o nal p r o d u cti o n , a nd e xp l o r i ng ne w m o d el s o f o w n er sh i p su c h a s s ub s c r i p t i o n, f o r a l mo st a d ecad e M U D J e a ns ha s b e e n d o i ng de ni m d i ffer e n tl y . M U D J e a ns p i o ne e r e d the ‘ Le ase a Jea ns ’ s ub s c r i p t i o n m o d e l whi c h al lo w s M u d c us t o m e r s t o p a y a m o nthl y f ee f o r th e ir j e a ns , a nd o nc e t he 1 2 - mo nth memb er sh i p i s up t he c us t o m e r c a n c ho o se to k e ep , sw a p f o r a ne w p a i r , o r s e n d the j ean s b ack - whe r e t he m a t e r i a l s wi l l be mad e i n to a ne w p a i r f o r s o m e o ne e l se to l o v e. I n th e p l a c e o f a p a t c h, Mud Je ans p r i n t th ei r l a b e l s t r a i g ht o nt o t he de ni m w h i ch also f a c i l i t a t e s r e c y c l i ng . MU D Je ans co n tai n u p t o 4 0 % p o s t - c o ns um e r r e c yc l e d co tto n ( G R S c e r t i f i e d ) b l e nd e d wi t h o rgani c co tto n , an d t he y ha v e d e c l a r e d a f uture go al o f d e si g ni ng t he f i r s t j e a ns m a d e f ro m 1 0 0 % p o st- c o ns um e r r e c y c l e d c o t t on, a j o u r n e y w e a r e e x c i t e d t o f o l l o w.

I M A G E: MU D J EA N S

M u d Jean s a r e c o m m i t t e d p a r t i c i p a n ts o f Th e Jean s R e d e s i g n P r o j e c t , a n i ni t i ati ve b y th e Ellen Ma c A r t hur F o und a t i o n. L e arn mo r e o n p ag e 4 4. w w w .mu d j ea ns . e u/

I M A G E: N EC E. G EN E

N e c e .G ene Ne c e Ge ne i s a ne wc o me r de ni m bran d l aunc he d i n e arl y January 2020 that uses n o ne w mate ri al s. In partne rshi p wi th Arvin d Mi l l s L td, Ne c e Ge ne c re ate s c o nte mporary hi gh f ashi o n de ni m pro duc ts f ro m th eir f ac to ry waste . Fro m yarns to f abri c c uttin gs, the pre -c o nsume r waste i s re purposed i nto Ne c e Ge ne ’ s c o mpl e te c o l l e c ti o n an d any f urthe r waste f ro m the i r pro duc tion is c re ate d i nto tre e -f re e de ni m pape r. In 2020 f o unde r Ne ha C e l l y was se l e c te d as o n e of 15 sustai nabl e de si gne rs to sho wc as e at He l si nki Fashi o n We e k and i n c o l l abo ra tion wi th 3D de si gne r Zi l Vo stal o va, Ne c e Gen e be c ame the wo rl d’ s f i rst de ni m brand to pre se nt an al l -di gi tal 3D f ashi o n sho w.

IMAG E: NE CE . G ENE

www.ne c e ge ne .c o m/ 37

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

D en ham X Can d ian i The w o rl d ' s f i rs t b i o d e g r a d a b l e st r e t ch de n i m Du tch jean mak e r s D E N H A M p a r t ne r e d with Can d ian i to l a unc h C O RE V A ™ , t he fir st b io d e gr ad ab l e s t r e t c h d e ni m , m a d e fr om n atu r al r u b b e r y a r ns i n 2 0 2 0 .

Com b in i n g Co r e v a ™ wi t h rivetless con str u ctio n , u n g a l v a ni z e d m e t a l b ut t o ns Den h am cr e ated a L i m i t e d E d i t o n & o ne of-a - k in d d en im c o l l e c t i o n.

DENH AM th e Jea nm a k e r wa s f o und e d i n Am ster d am i n 2 0 0 8 b y E ng l i s h j e a n m a k e r Jaso n D e n h am. D r i v e n b y t he p i o ne e r i ng sp iri t o f th e o r i g i na l b l ue j e a n, D E N H A M ap p r o ach es d esi g n wi t h a p a s s i o n f o r inno v ati o n w h i l e ho no r i ng t r a d i t i o n.

Sust ain ab i lity h a s b e e n i nt e r wo v e n i nt o th eir b r an d v alue s s i nc e d a y o ne . F r o m offer i n g l ife- l o n g r e p a i r s o n d e ni m t o r eu si n g v i n tage m a t e r i a l s a nd wa s hi ng th eir j ean s b y h a nd , D E N H A M ha s a l wa y s b eliev ed in b e i ng a n e c o - c o ns c i o us comp an y, b ecau s e t he t r ut h i s i n t he d etai ls.

Thei r Co r ev a™ collection can p u r ch ase d v i a t he i r we b s i t e o r Ca n d i an i 's o n l in e s t o r e .

be via

www.de nhamthe j e anmake r.com www.c andi ani de ni m.st ore

C L O S E D X C an di an i A B ET T ER B L UE i s C l o se d' s latest ecof ri e ndl y de ni m l i ne that h as been de ve l o pe d i n partne rshi p w ith Italian de ni m mi l l C andi ani and l au n ch es th is Fe bruary 2021.

T he wo me n' s and me n 's capsu le c o l l e c ti o n c o mpri se s o f j e an s an d jackets made f ro m C o re va™ , o rgani c cotton , an d bi o de gradabl e natural rubber stretch yarn and f abri c whi c h i s then w ash ed by the i r partne ri ng l aundry Everest, located ne ar Ve ni c e usi ng i nno vative w ash pro c e sse s, so me o f whi c h do n ot requ ire any wate r.

I m ag e s : C l o s e d

Me tal butto ns and ri ve ts h ave been swappe d o ut f o r se l f ya rn th reads and c e l l ul o se al te rnati ve s, th e Closed l o go has be e n l ase re d o n in stead of usi ng a pri nte d l e athe r pa tch an d th e garme nt i s se wn to ge the r usin g Ten cel™ thre ad al l o wi ng the e nti re produ ct to bi o de grade i n mature c o mpost in less than si x mo nths, wi tho ut releasin g th e to xi c c he mi c al s and mi c roplastics of c o nve nti o nal e l astane , i n complian ce wi th the EU standard EN13432. www.closed.com

38

N udie Jeans F ounded in 2 0 0 1 , N u di e J e a ns ha s b ui l t c i r c ul a ri ty i nto t heir b u si n e ss th r o u g h r e p a i r a nd r e - us e s c he me s, t he 1 0 0 % o r gan ic co t t o n m a t e r i a l s t he y us e , and re e duc ating cu sto me r s a b o ut e xt e nd i ng t he l i f e o f the i r g ar men ts.

When vi si tin g an y o f t he N ud i e s t o r e s c us t o me rs are g reeted b y a se w i n g m a c hi ne , whi c h s t a f f a r e trai ne d t o use in alter i n g and r e p a i r i ng a ny j e a ns t ha t c o me t hr ough th e d o o r .

Their r e - u se p r o gr am a l l o ws c us t o m e r s t o r e c e i ve a 20 % d isc o u n t o ff o f a ne w p a i r o f j e a ns i n e xc hange fo r th eir u se d p air , w hi c h a r e t he n s o l d s e c o nd hand, up cyc led, o r r e cy cled a nd s p un i nt o ne w y a r ns to start t he makin g p r o ce ss a l l o v e r a g a i n.

I n 2019, n u d i e r ep a i r e d 6 3 ,2 8 1 p a i r s o f j e a ns and collec ted 1 1 , 5 7 3 f o r r e - us e . T he y a l s o s o l d 3 ,5 21 pai rs of sec on d - h an d j ean s t ha t ha d b e e n r e t ur ne d by the i r custom er s.

N u d i e Je a n s | Re -U s e

I n th e same year , N ud i e l a unc he d t he i r Re bi rth collec tio n u sin g 2 0 % r e c y c l e d c o t t o n f r o m t he ir j e ans, wh ic h in tu r n is h e lp i ng t he m t o c l o s e t he l o o p. www.n u d i ej ean s.co m / s e l e c t i o n

Gan n i X L ev i 's ®

Ganni X Levi

D ES IGNED T O B E WORN, OWNED B Y NON E 100% RENT AL , 100% S HARING Ganni & L e vi ' s® have te ame d up to create a l o w i mpac t c o l l e c ti o n se t o ut to c o mbin e th e l o nge vi ty and we arabi l i ty o f L e vi ’ s® den im wi th GANNI’ s pl ayf ul de si gn, e xpl orin g a c i rc ul ar appro ac h to a f ashi o n c o l l abo ration .

Handpi c ke d f ro m the arc hi ve s. C ho sen w ith l o ve e ac h pi e c e i s made f ro m re c o ns tru cted 501s i nf use d wi th GANNI’ s si gnature design .

Al l styl e s have be e n c re ate d to be versatile i n use , f e aturi ng mul ti pl e styl i ng option s, de tac habl e c o l l ars, and adj ustabl e waistlin es.

C usto me rs are abl e to tap the bac k pat ch w ith the i r smartpho ne to unl o c k the #L EVIS XGAN N I uni ve rse , re ad L o ve L e tte rs f ro m D i t te an d #GANNIGi rl s i n the i r c ampai gn, pl us read o the r e xc l usi ve c o nte nt that has be e n created e spe c i al l y f o r the c o l l e c ti o n. www.re pe at.ganni .c o m Gan n i X L e v i

39

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Lut z Huel le Lutz H u el le, i s a G e r m a n- b o r n, P a r i s - b a se d de sign e r w h o h a s m a d e r e p ur p o s e d d e ni m oute r w e ar a s i g na t ur e i n hi s e p o ny m o us wo me n ’ s co l le c t i o n. T ho ug h H ue l l e has in tr o d u ce d so f t e r f a b r i c s l i k e m e t a l l i c lame an d d o t t e d m e s h i nt o hi s work, upcy cled d e n i m c o nt i nue s t o p unc t ua t e hi s c o l lecti o n s fo r 2 0 2 0 / 2 1 . I t e m s l i k e d e n i m skir ts sp l iced t o g e t he r wi t h d i f f e r e nt ver sio n s o f the m s e l v e s a nd b e l t e d d e n i m jack ets w ith m i s m a t c he d f a b r i c s , m i s s i ng po ck e ts, an d cl o s e d wi t h g r o s g r a i n r i b b ons, ha v e b e co me s o m e o f t he p l a y s o n the duality th at f a s hi o n a nd d e ni m wa t c he rs ha v e co me to e xp e c t f r o m t he d e s i g ne r .

Huel le, fo r o ne , b e l i e v e s he ha s onl y sc r atch ed th e s ur f a c e o f wha t ’ s p o s s i bl e wi th d e n i m. “D e ni m i s o ne o f t ho s e b a si c , ev e r y d ay w ar d r o b e m a t e r i a l s ,” he s ai d. “ I lo v e h o w u n i v e r s a l a nd i c o ni c i t i s , and be cau se i t’ s so i c o ni c , i t ’ s e a s y t o p us h i t i n differ e n t d ir ec t i o ns , r e i nv e nt i t a nd r e w o rk it i n d iffer e n t wa y s . ” www .l u tzh u e lle . c o m /

Im a g e : L u t z H u e l l e Lookbook

Gre g L au ren T he L o s Ange l e s de si gne r based h is e po nymo us l abe l o n upc yc l i ng mi l i t ary an d de ni m garme nts i nto pi e c e s that offer a f re sh ne w vi si o n f o r Ame ri c an me n’s w ear.

L aure n, the ne phe w o f Ral ph L auren , grew up aro und vi ntage c l o thi ng. “ I was tau gh t at a yo ung age ho w be auti f ul a piece of c l o thi ng’ s pati na was, ho w di f f e re nt fabrics age , and what that me ant, ” he said. Bu t he gre w c o nf l i c te d abo ut ho w a garmen t’s hi sto ry, and the sto ry o f the o ri gi nal w earer, c o ul d be purc hase d.

T o day L aure n' s si gnature l o o ks in volve de c o nstruc ti ng and re wo rki ng un w an ted pro duc ts and mate ri al s i nto new an d mo de rn pi e c e s.

Hi s sc rapwo rk garme nts are pro duc ed u sin g wastage that wo ul d typi c al l y be di rected to l andf i l l . i nste ad, tho usands o f sc raps are gi ve n to l o c al qui l te rs to c re ate y ardage that he re f e rs to as L aure n S c rapwork. www.gre gl aure n.c o m

40

Image: G r e g L aur e n

B lue of a Ki nd Bl u e of a k i n d sp e a k s t o t he d ur a b l e a nd democr atic n atu r e o f t he f a b r i c , no t t o m e nt i o n heap s of j ean s th at e xi s t . W i t h j e a ns b e i ng p a r t of m ainstr e am cu ltur e s i nc e t he 1 9 5 0 s , t he nu mb er o f o ld j ean s m a d e wi t h m o r e o r l e s s t he same in gr e d ien ts ( c o t t o n a nd i nd i g o ) m a y be as h igh as 5 b i llio n p a i r s . A nd b e c a us e o f t his con si ste n cy, b r a nd s wo r l d wi d e c a n t hi nk about smal l- scal e u pc y c l e d m a nuf a c t ur i ng a s opp osed to o n e- o ff u p c y c l e d p r o d uc t s t o d a y .

At Blu e O f A K in d , s o ur c i ng g a r m e nt s i s j us t another p ar t o f th e cr e a t i v e p r o c e s s , a l o ng s i d e design . Si n ce th e wo m e n’ s b r a nd d o e s no t use in d u str i al w ash i ng , a t t e nt i o n i s p a i d t o un wan te d j ean s th at a l r e a d y ha v e a n i nt e r e s t i ng lo ok a n d f ee l. O n l y t he n wi l l t he f o c us s hi f t s t o h ow th e gar men ts c a n b e r e i m a g i ne d i nt o e ntir ely n e w p r o d u ct s . www.b lueo fak in d .co m

I M A GE : GR E G L A UR E N

I m age : B l ue of A Ki nd

I m age : B l ue of Ki nd

41

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

O ut lan d Den i m Made to th e Elle n M a c A rt hur F o und a t i o n's J ea ns R ed es ig n Gu idel i ne s. D e s i g ne d f o r W e a r, not for was te.

O u tl an d D e n i m's l a t e s t p r o d uc t l a unc h ( Mi d Jan 2 0 2 1 ) se es th e b r a nd s ho w o f f t he i r ne w range of p r o d u cts th a t ha v e b e e n d e s i g ne d a s part o f The Ellen M acAr t hur F o und a t i o n, J e a ns Re de si gn p r oj ect.

Base d o n th e ci r c ul a r e c o no m y p r i nc i p l es, a se t of re sp o n sib le a nd s us t a i na b l e g ui d e l ine s was estab lish ed b y t he f o und a t i o n, a l o ng w i th 80+ d en im sp eci alist s t o e ns ur e t ha t j e a ns made wi th th ese gu id el in e s m e e t t he m i ni m um r e q ui re me nts for d u r ab ility , m a t e r i a l he a l t h, r e c y c l a b il i ty, and tr aceab i lity o f d e ni m j e a ns . www. o ut l a nd d e ni m .c o m.au

Im a g e : Ou t l a n d D e n i m

N ob ody Den i m No bo dy i s a pro ud ve rti c al l y i nte grated bu sin ess c o mmi tte d to suppo rti ng l o c al i ndustry an d th e f uture o f Austral i an manuf ac turi ng.

B o rn i n 1999 i n Me l bo urne , Australia, N obody D e ni m has l o ng be e n c e l e brate d f o r ma kin g w omen f e e l mo re c o nf i de nt i n the i r wo rl d and th emselves.

D e si gne d f ro m the de tai l s up, No bo dy believes styl e i s abo ut the atti tude as i t i s abou t th e purpo se – c o nti nual l y re f i ni ng and de fin in g.

Whi l e the i r f o undati o ns l i e i n pre miu m den im pi e c e s, the y be l i e ve i n the i r c o untry's lon gevity as muc h as that o f the i r c o l l e c ti o n s, w h ich is why the i r l o ngstandi ng c o mmi tme nt to eth ical manuf ac turi ng pri nc i pl e s o f f e rs a uni qu e vision of re spo nsi bl e de si gn.

2020 saw No bo dy de ni m partne r wi th FibreTrace an Austral i an nano te c hno l o gy c o mpan y u sin g bl o c kc hai n to trac e f i bre s f ro m se e d to fin ish ed garme nt gi vi ng the i r c usto me rs f ul l tran sparen cy wi thi n the i r suppl y c hai n.

No bo dy' s de ni m Fi bre T rac e raw materials are gro wn i n Austral i a i n Mo re e at o ne of Au stralias l arge st c o tto n f arms, S undo wn. Usi ng su stain able, re ge ne rati ve f armi ng me tho ds pl us th e latest te c hno l o gy S undo wn' s c o tto n c o ntai ns FibreTrace has be e n name d ' Go o d Earth C o tt on ' an d is f e ature d i n a l i ne up o f 5 ne w styl e s available to purc hase f ro m No bo dy' s o nl i ne sto re .

42

I m ag e : No b o d y D e n i m

www.no bo dyde ni m.c o m

I ndustry of all Nat ions ( IO A N) X T he New Den im Pro je ct Fa b r ics N ew Wo r k Ja c k e t i n c o c o f a b r i c ( 8 0 % raw up cycled co tto n f r o m T N D P ) ' N ew j ean s and W o r k j a c k e t s ' a r e s o me o f the l atest p r o d uc t s t o a r r i v e a t I O A N ' s onl i ne s to r e . Th e fib r e s , f a b r i c s , a nd g a r m e n ts are a l l mad e in G ua t e m a l a wi t hi n a c l o s e d-l o o p s y ste m.

T h e fab r ics a r e c r a f t e d f r o m t e xt i l e waste fr o m lo cal d e ni m f a c t o r i e s ' p r o d uc t i o n.

Instead o f the s e s c r a p s b e c o m i ng w aste , T h e New D en i m P r o j e c t ( T N D P ) , a f o urthg e n e r atio n te x t i l e m i l l l o c a t e d i n G ua te mal a recycles th es e s c r a p s b a c k i nt o ne w and beau tifu l mate r i a l s .

A s th e mater i a l s c o m e f r o m r e c y c l e d waste te x ti les, n o add i t i o na l d y e s a r e ne e d e d, and e ach fab r ic i s g ua r a nt e e d no t t o c o ntai n plasti c - i.e . po l y e s t e r s o r ny l o ns . C us t o me rs c an r est assu re d t he p r o d uc t i s hi g h q ual i ty, 10 0 % n atu r al, b i o d e g r a d a b l e , a nd r e c yc l e d a gai n w h en i t c a n no l o ng e r b e wo r n.

Im a g e : IO A N

Im a g e : IO A N

T he Ne w Je ans have a uni se x f i t, w ith a hi ghe r ri se and strai ght l e g. Made in partne rshi p wi th T he Ne w D e ni m Pro ject i n Guate mal a C i ty, e ac h pai r f e atures a z i ppe r f l y, and i s f i ni she d wi th IOAN ni c kelf re e me tal butto ns. Al to ge the r, the se j e an s are f ul l y bi o de gradabl e at the e nd o f th eir l i f e c yc l e and af te r the butto ns have been re mo ve d. www.i ndustryo f al l nati o ns.c o m

43

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

T HE JE AN S RED ESIGN Th e J e a ns Re d e s i g n i ni t i a t i v e l aunc he d bac k i n Jul y 2019 to bri ng to ge the r l ead i ng f a s hi o n b r a nd s , m a nuf a c ture rs and f abri c mi l l s wo rl dwi de to transf o rm h o w t he i nd us t r y p r o d uc e s j e a n s.

Tr an s f o r m i ng f a s hi o n t o wa r d s a c i rc ul ar e c o no my re qui re s ne w ways to c re ate an d m a k e c l o t he s d ur a b l e , r e cyc l abl e and made wi th sui tabl e mate ri al s. T he Je an s Re d e s i g n i s d e v e l o p i ng s o l uti o ns f o r a wo rl d whe re c l o the s ne ve r be c o me w aste .

O v er s i x t y l e a d i ng b r a nd s , m a n uf ac ture rs, and f abri c mi l l s are usi ng the El l e n M acA r t hur F o und a t i o n J e a ns Re de si gn Gui de l i ne s to day to pro duc e j e ans that w ill be a v a i l a b l e o n t he m a r k e t by May 2021.

B ased o n t he c i r c ul a r e c o no m y pri nc i pl e s, a se t o f gui de l i ne s was e stabl i she d b y th e f o und a t i o n, a l o ng wi t h 80+ de ni m spe c i al i sts to e nsure that j e ans made w ith t he s e g ui d e l i ne s m e e t t h e mi ni mum re qui re me nts f o r the durabi l i ty, materi a l he a l t h, r e c y c l a b i l i t y , a nd trac e abi l i ty o f de ni m j e ans.

Th e g ui d e l i ne s ha v e a l s o b e e n e ndo rse d by c l o thi ng c o l l e c to rs and re c yc l e rs, i n cl u di ng L e nz i ng , E V RN U , a nd Re :ne wc e l l .

B y em p l o y i ng t he p r i nc i p l e s o f a c i rc ul ar e c o no my, the Je ans Re de si gn e nsure s p o si ti v e i m p a c t s f o r t he e nv i r o nme nt, so c i e ty, and the he al th o f tho se wo rki ng i n its i nd us t r y .

Th e Je a ns Re d e s i g n i s a n e x c e ll e nt e xampl e o f ho w the i ndustry c an make al l cl o th i ng f r o m s a f e a nd r e ne wabl e mate ri al s, i mpro ve d busi ne ss mo de l s c an i n cr e a s e t he us e o f c l o t hi ng i t ems, and c an turn o l d c l o the s i nto ne w.

El l e n Mac Arthur Fo undati o n

CL

ICK

HERE

- PART ICI P ING

BRAND REP O

GUIDELINES RT

IDE

CLIC

CK HERE - A C

SS

EDESIGNE DV NS R

O

44

CLI

AT

T O W ATC RE HJ

CE

HE

EA

K

Ex p lo r e t hi s e d i t i o n o f o ur s o u rc i ng magaz i ne to di sc o ve r so me o f the f abri c mills, m a nuf a c t ur e r s , a nd b r a n ds mo vi ng the ne e dl e i n re de si gni ng ho w de ni m i s p r o d uc e d f o r e v e r . Re a d o ur f e ature pi e c e wi th Outl and D e ni m' s f o unde r James B a r t l e , who s ha r e s s o m e o f hi s te ams' e xpe ri e nc e s aro und the pro j e c t, w h at' s i n s t o r e f o r t he m i n 2 0 2 1, and ho w he se e s the de ni m i ndustry transf o rm.

45

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

A BO UT Bor n an d r ai se d i n D e r b y s hi r e , U K, Da me Ellen M acAr t hur f e l l i n l o v e wi t h the sp o r t o f sailing f r o m a n e a r l y a g e .

Per sev e r an t sh e s a v e d he r p o c k e t m on ey as a ch i ld t o p ur c ha s e he r f i r s t sm all b o at, a d in g hy a t a g e 1 3 whi c h she ke p t i n h e r be d r o o m . I n he r t e e n year s, M acAr th u r b e g a n c o m p e t i t i v e r a cing w h i ch l ed to p ur s ui ng y a c ht i ng a s a pr ofe ssio n . Wi th a n a d v e nt ur o us s p i r i t a n d in stin cti v e en tr e p r e ne ur i a l a t t i t ud e , she estab lish ed t he E l l e n Ma c A r t hur Can cer Tr u st i n 2 0 0 3 t o s up p o r t y o ung people to r e b u i ld t he i r c o nf i d e nc e a f t e r tr ea tme n t th r o u gh l e a r ni ng t o s a i l .

In 2 0 0 5 at ju st 2 8 y e a r s o f a g e , D a m e E llen M acAr th u r b e c a m e t he f a s t e s t solo s ailo r to cir cum na v i g a t e no n- s t o p a r ou n d th e w o r ld , t a k i ng o nl y 7 1 d a y s .

In her su b seq u en t T E D T a l k t i t l e d ' T he Su r p r i si n g Th i n g, I L e a r ne d S a i l i ng S o l o A r ou n d th e Wo r ld ' s he s ha r e s a t o ne poin t o n h er j o u r ne y "t he ne a r e s t l a nd wa s A n tar ctica, and t he ne a r e s t p e o p l e would b e th o se m a nni ng t he E ur o p e a n Sp ace Statio n ab o v e m e ". I n r e c o g ni t i o n of he r acco mp lis hm e nt a nd c ha r i t y wor k, M acAr th u r re c e i v e d t he t i t l e o f Da me Co mman d er o f t he B r i t i s h E m p i r e

by Que en El izab eth I I .

H owev er , th e su r p r i s i ng r e a l i s a t i o n t ha t E llen s p eak s to i n he r T E D T a l k i s ho w sa iling ar o u n d the g l o b e hi g hl i g ht e d with u tmo st cl ar ity t he d i s t i nc t m e a ni ng a n d r e al ity o f th e wo r d ' f i ni t e ' .

"At sea, what you have is all you have, stopping en route to restock is not an option and careful resource management can be a matter of life or death – running out of energy to power the autopilot means you can be upside down in seconds. My boat was my world, I was constantly aware of its supplies limits, and when I stepped back ashore, I began to see that our world was not any different.

I had become acutely aware of the true meaning of the word 'finite'.

When I applied it to resources in the global economy, I realised there were some big challenges ahead."

– D a m e E l l en M a cA r t hur .

I m a g e : D a m e E l l e n M a c Ar t h u r , E l l e n M a c Ar t h u r F o u n d a t i o n

46

ABOU T ELLEN MACARTHU R C o nne c t i ng t he d o t s that o ur c urre nt e c o no mi c syste ms use o f re so urc e s for p r o d uc t i o n a nd c o ns u mpti o n we re usi ng f ar be yo nd what we have avai l able o n p l a ne t E a r t h l e d D ame El l e n Mac Arthur to a ne w j o urne y - to unde rstan d t he g l o b a l e c o no m y and re so urc e use . D i vi ng de e p i nto c o nve rsati o ns w ith e xp e r t s f r o m v a r i o us i ndustri e s as she trave l l e d the wo rl d f o r f o ur ye ars l e a r ni ng m o r e a b o ut o ur take , make , waste appro ac h, whi l st c o nti nuo u sly q ue s t i o ni ng t he i d e a o f a ne w e c o no mi c mo de l .

L e a v i ng t he s p o r t o f c o mpe ti ti ve so l o sai l i ng be hi nd, i n 2010 T he El len Ma c A r t hur F o und a t i on ( EMF) was l aunc he d wi th the pri nc i pl e s o f a c i rc u lar e c o no m y m i nd s e t t ha t e xpl o re s ho w so c i e ty c an re thi nk pro gre ss and re build a t hr i v i ng r e s t o r a t i v e e c o no my. Partne ri ng wi th busi ne ss, e duc ati o n an d g o v e r nm e nt s , E MF i s wo rki ng to wards a gl o bal transi ti o n to a re ge ne rat ive c i r c ul a r e c o no m y t h at de si gns o ut waste and po l l uti o n ac ro ss vari ou s i nd us t r i e s .

I n J a nua r y 2 0 1 2 E M F l aunc he d the f i rst e c o no mi c re po rt ' T o wards the c i rc ular e c o no m y ' t o e x a m i ne a c i rc ul ar e c o no my' s po te nti al and o ppo rtuni ties a t t he W o r l d E c o no mi c Fo rum i n D avo s. Ove r the past de c ade , EMF has c o nt i nue d t o b ui l d g l o bal partne rs ac ro ss se c to rs f ro m te c hno l o gy, to f o od, F M C G , a ut o m o t i v e , and e duc ati o n whi l st ho sti ng e ve nts and summi ts to s ha r e k no wl e d g e a nd bri ng the f rame wo rk o f the c i rc ul ar e c o no my f o rwards.

A t C o p e nha g e n F a s hi o n S ummi t i n May 2017 EMF anno unc e d the C i rc u lar F i b r e s I ni t i a t i v e whi c h bro ught to ge the r i ndustry e xpe rts and stake ho l ders t o b ui l d a c i r c ul a r e c ono my f o r te xti l e s, starti ng wi th the f ashi o n i ndustry .

I n t he s a m e y e a r , E MF publ i she d a dynami c re po rt ' A ne w te xti l e s e c o no my : Re d e s i g ni ng f a s hi o n's f uture ' whi c h bro ught to l i ght the i mpac t o f th e i nd us t r y ' s r e s o ur c e - inte nsi ve , waste f ul mo de l whi l st o f f e ri ng a ne w w ay f o r wa r d . ' I n a ne w t e x t i l e s e c o no my c l o the s wo ul d be de si gne d to l ast l o nge r, be wo r n m o r e a nd b e easi l y re nte d o r re so l d and re c yc l e d, and wo ul d n ot r e l e a s e t o xi ns o r p o ll uti o n. Expl o ri ng ne w mate ri al s, pi o ne e ri ng busi ness m o d e l s , ha r ne s s i ng the po we r o f de si gn, and f i ndi ng ways to sc al e be t ter t e c hno l o g i e s a nd s o l u ti o ns are al l ne e de d to c re ate a ne w te xti l e s e c o no my .'

– T he E l l e n M a c A r t hur Fo undati o n.

G a i ni ng g l o b a l t e x ti l e i ndustry suppo rt f ro m f ashi o n brands suc h as H & M, N i k e a nd S t e l l a Mc C artne y as we l l as e duc ato rs, de si gne rs, f ashion p r o d uc e r s a nd l e a d ers i n the i ndustry as the y re c o gni se the be ne f i ts of a c i r c ul a r t e xt i l e s e c o no my and c o l l abo rati o n f o r pe o pl e , pl ane t and t h e f i na nc i a l o p p o r t uni t i e s c apture d i n te xti l e s that i n a l i ne ar mo de l are l ost a s wa s t e .

I n J ul y 2 0 1 9 , E M F l a unc he d T he Je ans Re de si gn i ni ti ati ve whi c h has seen 6 0 + l e a d i ng f a s hi o n brands c o mmi t to pro duc i ng a l i ne o f de ni m j e a n s f o l l o wi ng g ui d e l i ne s t hat addre ss durabi l i ty, trac e abi l i ty, transpare nc y a n d r e c y c l a b i l i t y wi t h t he ai m o f re duc i ng waste and po l l uti o n and de si gnin g f o r a f ut ur e whe r e the mate ri al s c an be re use d. L e arn mo re abo ut Th e J e a ns Re d e s i g n i ni t i a ti ve o ve r the f o l l o wi ng page s and ho w the i ndustry is t r a ns f o r m i ng ho w t he y de si gn and pro duc e de ni m j e ans f o r c i rc ul ari ty.

T o d a y D a m e E l l e n Mac Arthur i s wo rl d re no wn as the f o unde r o f T he El len Ma c A r t hur F o und a t i on o f whi c h she i s the C hai r o f T ruste e s. T he El len Ma c A r t hur F o und a t i on c o nti nue s to pro gre ss ac ti o n to transi ti o n to a c i r c ul a r e c o no m y t hr ough partne rshi ps, re se arc h, i ni ti ati ve s and e duc ation a r o und t he wo r l d .

47

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Ci rc u l ar E c on om y Concept & Principles Looking beyond the current ‘take, make, and dispose’ extractive industrial model, a circular economy aims to redefine growth, focusing on positive society-wide benefits. It entails gradually decoupling economic activity from the consumption of finite resources and designing waste out of the system. Underpinned by a transition to renewable energy sources, the circular model builds economic, natural, and social capital. It focuses on three principles: • Design out waste and pollution. A circular economy reveals and designs out the negative impacts of economic activity that cause damage human health and natural systems; This includes the release of greenhouse gases and hazardous substances, the pollution of air, land and water, and structural waste such as traffic congestion.

• Keep products and materials in use. A circular economy favours activities that preserve more value in energy, labour, and materials; this means designing for durability, reuse, remanufacturing and recycling to keep products, components, and materials circulating in the economy. Circular systems make effective use of biologically based materials by encouraging many different uses before nutrients are returned to natural systems.

• Regenerate natural systems. A circular economy avoids using non-renewable resources where possible and preserves or enhances renewable ones, for example, by returning valuable nutrients to the soil to support regeneration.

In a circular economy, economic activity builds and rebuilds overall system health. The concept recognises the importance of the economy needing to work effectively at all scales for large and small businesses, for organisations and individuals, globally and locally.

Transitioning to a circular economy does not just amount to adjustments to reduce the negative impacts of the linear economy. Instead, it represents a systemic shift that builds long-term resilience, generates business and economic opportunities, and provides environmental and societal benefits.

E llen Ma cArth u r F o u n d a tio n

48

C IRCUL A R

5.3 R EC YC L A BILITY

5.1 DURABILITY T h e fo l lo w in g me a s ur e s d e f i ne t he min im u m stan d ar d s o f d ur a b i l i t y t ha t m us t b e m e t : 1 / Be ab le to w i th stand a m i ni m um o f 3 0 ho m e l a und r i e s

Je ans must Inc l ude a min imu m o f 98% c e l l ul o se -based fibres by we i ght i n the t otal textile c o mpo si ti o n ( c o tton , h emp, l i ne n, l yo c e l l , T e ncel™ etc)

(plea se no te n ear l y a l l j e a ns l a s t a l o t l o n ger tha n t hi s a m o unt )

z i ppe r tape , thre a d, i nte rl i ni ngs, l abe ls recy cled c o nte nt and f i bre trackin g o r trac i ng te c hno logy is i nc l ude d i n the total textile c o mpo si ti o n.

2/ P r o v i d e in f o r m a t i o n o n ho w t o car e for jean s v i si b ly o n t he g a r m e nt , allowing f o r th e cu st o m e r t o c a r e f o r th e ir pr o d uc t c o r r e c t l y .

Me tal ri ve ts are removed e nti re l y o r re duc ed to a mi ni mum

5.2 M AT E RIAL H E AL T H S ou r ce c el lu l o se- b ase d f ib r es fr om r e gen er ati v e far mi n g, o r gan i c o r tr an siti o n al meth o ds .

C ellu los e- b ased fib r e s inc lude , b u t ar e n o t limited to : co tto n, hemp , lyo ce ll, lin e n and visc ose ( Cl o sed - l o o p ) .

5 . 4 T R A C E A BILIT Y C o r r e c t l y l a b e l e d f o r r e c yc l i ng usi ng the j e ans re de si gn l o go U s e t e c hno l o g y t h at e nabl e s so rti ng ( Opti o nal )

JE AN S

TH E JE AN S RE DE SI GN

I ll u s t rat i on b y Yank i Dar l i ng

Enabl e e asy di sas sembly o f any addi ti o nal material that i s adde d to th e fabric ( ac c e sso ri e s, me ta ls, radiof re que nc y i de nti f ication (RFID)

49

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

A b o ut O utland D enim Outland Denim's foundations were built on social sustainability and justice for some of the world's most vulnerable people. However we do not believe one can advocate for social justice without taking steps to protect our environment too by way of managing garment impact in the design, user, and post-life stages. We are driven by an ethos of “zero exploitation” which includes delivering positive social outcomes while mitigating environmental impact pre and post consumer-use and, where we can, improving the ecological and economic status of entire communities.

Our production is entirely in-house, which gives us full control not only of our product quality, but also the way in which our goods are produced, by whom and under what conditions. Our environmental stewardship begins with the engagement of suppliers who meet our strict criteria for raw material standards, and is realised in the development of our stand-alone wash and finishing house. This project will ensure the ecological integrity of this crucial part of jean production, and utilises the best available new technology for reducing water usage and carbon emissions.

Our commitment to creating a product life cycle geared toward full circularity is something that we are striving towards daily. In partnership with universities, governments and institutions around the world, our current research and development projects begin in the areas of water purification, minimising environmental impact through cotton dyeing processes, carbon footprint reduction, minimising our post-industrial and post consumer waste to the point of eradication, and exten ds to the intricate tracking of social and environmental impact with the use of big data and blockchain technology.

We believe that the quality of our design and craftsmanship should reflect our commitment to making products that are enjoyed and worn for a lifetime. As Australia's first denim brand to become a certified B Corporation, we believe that neither communities nor the environment should suffer in the pursuit of fashion. For the betterment of the world and its inhabitants, and the next generations, we enthusiastically commit to the Make Fashion Circular, Jeans Redesign Guidelines proposed by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

Outland Denim

50

TH E JE AN S RE DE SI GN 51 I m a g e : O U T LAND D ENIM

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

O U TL A ND D EN IM JAMES BARTLE F ou nd i n g CEO , O utland D enim As Outland Denim go live with their first J e a n s R e d e s i g n c a p s u l e t h i s J a n u a r y, w e ask James Bartle, the founder of Outland D e n i m t o s h a re s o m e o f h i s t e a m ' s e x p e r i e n c e s a ro u n d t h e p ro j e c t , w h a t ' s i n s t o re f o r t h e m i n 2 0 2 1 , a n d h o w h e s e e s the denim industry transform.

W hy did y ou feel it wa s essentia l to be pa rt of the Ellen Ma c A rthur F oundat ion 'The J ea ns Redesig n projec t?''

D ue to the i mpac t and sustai nabi l i ty -focu sed nature o f Outl and D e ni m, the gui delin es set o ut by the El l e n Mac Arthur Fo undati on ’s Jean s Re de si gn Pro j e c t al i gn ve ry c l o se l y w ith ou r c o re val ue s whe n i t c o me s to pro duct design .

Ho we ve r what we appre c i ate mo st abou t th e pro j e c t i s that i t e nc o urage s c o l l a boration o ve r c o mpe ti ti o n i n c e l e brati ng susta in ability , f i ndi ng so l uti o ns and c hangi ng the fash ion i ndustry f o r the be tte r.

W ha t ha s been the most c ha lleng ing as pe ct of The J ea ns Redesig ned projec t for Out land denim?

We have be e n l uc ky i n thi s pro c e ss in th at we c ame i nto the Je ans Re de si gn p roject an i mpac t-f o c use d brand and so muc h o f ou r ran ge al re ady me t the Je ans Re de si gn re quiremen ts, and al so that we are a yo ung brand mean in g that whe n ro o m f o r i mpro ve me nt i s iden tified we c an adapt qui c kl y and transi ti o n to a better way o f do i ng thi ngs. T he bi gge st c hal len ge w e, and a l o t o f the de ni m i ndustry f ac e , is fin din g a way to re mo ve the ne e d f o r po l yester or e l astane i n de ni m whi l e sti l l mai ntain in g th e qual i ty and l o nge vi ty o f the j e an. F in din g a natural al te rnati ve , o r f i ndi ng a way t o en su re thi s po l ye ste r do e s no t e ve ntual l y c o nt ribu te to l andf i l l o r mi c ro pl asti c s i n o ur wate rway s, is a pro j e c t o ur de si gn te am c o nti nue to w ork on .

Ca n y ou tell us more a bout the f abrics , threa ds, a nd a c c essories tha t y ou h ave us e d within the redesig n?

In de si gni ng o ur ne w C o re D e ni m collection we have f o c use d o n usi ng de ni m wi th n atu ral f i bre s, i nc l udi ng o rgani c c o tto n and Ly ocell.

T hi s c o l l e c ti o n al so marks o ur f i rst u se of re c yc l e d c o tto n usi ng REFIB RA™ te ch n ology .

T he se f i bre s are made by upc yc l i ng cotton sc raps f ro m garme nt pro duc ti o n. T hese cotton sc raps are transf o rme d i nto c o tto n pu lp. A substanti al pro po rti o n – up to o ne t h ird – of thi s i s adde d to wo o d pul p, and the combin ed raw mate ri al i s transf o rme d to pro du ce n ew vi rgi n T ENC EL ™ L yo c e l l f i bre s to make fabrics and garme nt. Our ac c e sso ri e s are m ade from B rass wi th no e l e c tro pl ati ng and z e ro h armfu l c he mi c al s. B y e l i mi nati ng the e l e c t roplatin g pro c e ss the sustai nabl e me tal c o l o urs u se less wate r and l e ss c he mi c al substanc e s as w ell as savi ng e l e c tri c i ty usage and the rmal e n ergy .

52

Ho w w ill y o u n ow t ra ns f e r wha t yo u ha v e l e ar n t a n d dev e l o p e d i nt o o t he r p ro duc t ar eas s u ch a s yo ur M e a ka p l a t f o rm , p lus o th er pr o du cts tha t y o u m i g ht d e ve l o p i n the f u tu re?

Each M ae k a clien t wi l l ha v e t he i r o wn nee ds d ep en d in g o n th e g a r m e nt o r r a ng e , ho weve r n o matte r th e p r o d uc t o ur d e s i g n a nd i m pac t teams ar e d ed i ca t e d t o s o ur c i ng t he m o st socia lly an d e n v ir o nm e nt a l l y s us t a i na b l e o p ti o n on the mar k et at t he t i m e , a nd t hi s l e v e l o f sou r cin g su p p o r t i s s o m e t hi ng we a r e p r o ud to offer M aek a clien ts a l s o .

W ha t exc ites y ou the most a bout the f ut ure of fa shion?

I trul y be l i e ve that the f ashi o n i ndustry can be the answe r to so me o f the gre ate st s ocial an d e nvi ro nme ntal pro bl e ms we f ac e to day , despite i t hi sto ri c al l y be i ng a maj o r c o ntri buto r to th ose pro bl e ms. T hat i s what e xc i te s me the most abou t the f uture o f f ashi o n.

Ar e th er e a n y s ta nd o ut w i nni ng s t ra t e gies o r te ch n ica l found a t i o n wo rk f ro m the pro j e ct th a t y o u w o ul d e nc o ura g e o t h ers to u s e in th eir own p ro d uc t d e v e l o p m e nt & pro ductio n ?

I woul d en co u r age o t he r s i n t he d e ni m i nd ustry to ad o p t mo r e c o nt e m p o r a r y m e t ho d s o f wash in g an d f in i s hi ng i f t he y ha v e no t do ne so alr ead y. Th is a s p e c t o f t he c o nv e nt i onal jea n -mak i n g p r o ce s s , i nc l ud i ng s t o ne wa s hi ng an d san d b lasti n g , ha s ne g a t i v e e f f e c t s o n th e e n v ir o n me n t a nd o n g a r m e nt wo r k e r s . B y u sing state - o f - th e - a r t l a s e r , E - F l o w, a nd O z o ne tech n o l o gy i n o u r f i ni s hi ng f a c i l i t y , we ha v e be e n ab le t o si gn i fican t l y r e d uc e wa t e r , e ne r g y , and ch emical u se w h e n c o m p a r e d t o c o nv e nt i onal meth o d s.

It is p o si tiv e an d e x c i t i ng t o he a r s o muc h con ve r satio n an d p r o g r e s s i n t he d eni m an d fash io n in dus t r y whe n i t c o m e s to en vir o n me n tal su s t a i na b i l i t y a nd r e d uci ng ecolog i cal h ar m. The r e i s a c ul t ur e o f i nno v a ti o n an d co l lab o r ati o n a nd we c a n s e e a d a y whe n ou r c o l lecti v e su c c e s s e s i n s us t a i na b i l i t y as an in d u str y ar e n o t a p o i nt o f d i f f e r e nc e but th e n o r m. H o w ev e r , t he r e i s s t i l l a l o t o f w o rk to b e d o n e to p r o t e c t t he r i g ht s o f t he p e opl e making clo th es; in e ns ur i ng t he y e xp e r i e nc e a r esp e ctfu l , safe, f ul f i l l i ng wo r k p l a c e i n wh i c h th ey ar e p aid f air ly .

Esp eci ally gar men t wo r k e r s who a r e m i g r a nts o r su b co n tr acto r s o f a l a b e l ’ s p r i m a r y p r o d uc ti o n fa cilit y - th e se w o r k e r s a r e e v e n m o r e v ul ne r a bl e to exp l o i tatio n . An d s o t he i nno v a t i o ns whi c h excite me th e mo s t l o o k a t t he p r o b l e m i n a h olisti c w ay, e ns ur i ng i t ' s e nv i r o nm e ntal l y su stain ab l e, b u t s us t a i na b l e i n a s o c i a l and econ o mic w ay al so .

TH E JE AN S RE DE SI GN

Th e den im in du s t ry ha s re a l l y a c c e l e rated i ts d r iv e to beco m e m o re sust a i na b l e i n the l ast f ew y ea r s w i t h i nc re d i b l e wa t e r sa v ing tec h n o lo g ies , ch e m i c a l re d uc t i o n a nd new ways to a pply w a she s v i a o z o ne a nd l a se r.

Is th er e o n e den i m i nno va t i o n o r t e c hno l og y th at y o u feel is a re a l g a m e - c ha ng e r f o r the i n d u s tr y ? Wh a t is i t ? a nd why d o yo u t hink th i s c a n r ea lly tr a ns f o rm t he w a y d e ni m is pro duced to da y a nd i n t he f ut ure ?

53 Image: OUT L A N D DEN I M

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Ou t s ide o f J ea n R e d e si g n, wha t o t he r exc iting pro jects a r e Out l a nd D e ni m wo rki ng on this year 2 0 2 1 i s p r o v in g to b e a v e r y e xc i t i ng a nd b u sy ye ar for u s as a b r and a nd m a nuf a c t ur e r . I n adapti ng an d r esp o n d in g t o ho w C O V I D ha s i m p a cte d the industr y, w e w ill b e t r a ns i t i o ni ng f r o m 2 c o l l e c ti o ns p er y ear to 6 s m a l l e r c a p s ul e c o l l e c t i o ns and exp an d i n g o u r o f f e r i ng t o i nc l ud e RT W , wi th o ur fir st R TW cap su l e d ue t o l a unc h j us t ne xt mo nth.

We h av e also o p e ne d t he o p p o r t uni t y f o r o the r b r an d s to man u f a c t ur e wi t h o ur p r o d uc ti o n and fin is h i n g ar m, br a nd e d Ma e k a , a nd p r o v i de the op p o r tu n ity to p r o d uc e us i ng t he s o c i a l l y and en vi r o n men tally s us t a i na b l e p r a c t i c e s we have b eco me k n o w n fo r .

O n e p r o j ect th at I a m e xc i t e d t o s ha r e w i th the wor ld i s also d u e t o l a unc h t hi s y e a r .

O u r v isi o n is t o c r e a t e p r o d uc t s t ha t have a p ositiv e imp act o n t he p l a ne t . W e wa nt t o m i ti gate h ar m to n atu r al r e s o ur c e s a nd l e a v e t he pl ane t an d its p eo p le in a b e t t e r p o s i t i o n t ha n what the y wou l d h av e b e e n s ho ul d t he p r o d uc t not e xi st.

With th i s p r o j ect , we ’ r e o ne s t e p c l o s e r t o maki ng th is v i si o n a r eal i t y .

Wh a t w o u ld y o u l i ke t o s e e t he d e ni m i n dustry tack le a n d a ccel e ra t e p ro g re s s t o wa rd s i n 2021?

My h o p e f o r th e d e ni m i nd us t r y i n 2 0 2 1 , i s that we will se e mo r e a c c o unt a b i l i t y f o r s us t a inabi l i ty cla im s, an d less g r e e nwa s hi ng . N o t o nl y do e s man ip u l ativ e m a r k e t i ng m a k e i t d i f f i cul t f o r cu sto mer s to su pp o r t b r a nd s t ha t a l i g n with the i r va lues, i t's tak in g us b a c k wa r d s i n t he s us t ai nabl e fa sh i o n mo v eme nt .

www.outl an d d en i m. c om . a u

54 I m age : O U T L A N D DEN I M

TH E JE AN S RE DE SI GN

55

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

56

“​A S AN IMPACT-LED BUSINESS, THE GUIDELINES SET OUT BY THE ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION’S JEANS REDESIGN PROJECT ALIGN VERY CLOSELY WITH OUR CORE VALUES WHEN IT COMES TO PRODUCT DESIGN. WE ARE PROUD TO BE A PART OF A PROJECT THAT ENCOURAGED DENIM BRANDS AND MANUFACTURERS TO COLLABORATE ON SOLUTIONS, RATHER THAN COMPETE,​” O UTLAN D D E N I M FO UN D I N G C EO, JAM E S BARTLE .

57 I m a g e : M AE K A | OU T LAND D ENIM

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Image: UNSPUN

58

U ns p un, t he 3 D b o d y s c a n j e ans c o mpany has l aunc he d Ge ne si s, i t s m o s t s us t a i na b l e p a i r o f j e ans ye t. D e ve l o pe d as part o f t he E l l e n Ma c A r t hur F o un dati o n’ s Je ans Re de si gn pro gram, the j e a ns s o l v e c ur r e nt wa s t e c hal l e nge s by c o mbi ni ng unspun’ s i nv e nt o r y - f r e e s y s t e m s o f pro duc ti o n wi th pi o ne e ri ng gl o bal l y a v a i l a b l e b e s t - i n- c l a s s m ate ri al s l i ke Re so rte c s® smart sti tc h t hr e a d s ( whi c h c a n b e heate d and di sso l ve d to make re c yc l i ng m o r e f e a s i b l e ) a nd a s c a nnabl e QR C o de to pro vi de c usto me rs c i r c ul a r c a r e i ns t r uc t i o ns and share ke y c i rc ul ari ty data wi th r e s e l l e r s a nd r e c y c l e r s .

@uns p un. i o c i r c ul a r b o d y sc an j e ans @ p a nt he r_d e ni m o r g a ni c c o tto n f abri c @ e o n_g ro up p o we r i ng c o nne c te d c i rc ul arID @ re so rt e c s s m a r t s t i t c h de si gne d f o r di sasse mbl y @ f c l st ud i o s us t a i na b l e d e ni m de ve l o pme nt and manuf ac turi ng

THE J E AN S RED ESIGN

" U N S P U N ’ S I N N O V ATIV E SOLUTIONS TO MEET THE J E A N S RE DE S I G N GUID ELINES TO ENSUR E TH AT J E A N S A RE DU RA BLE, R ECY CL A BLE, CONTAIN S A F E I N P U T S A N D CAN BE E ASILY TR ACE ABLE, DE M O N S T RAT E S T H E P OW ER OF COLL A BOR ATION A CRO S S T H E F AS H ION IND USTR Y ,” SAID L AUR A B A L M O N D, M A K E F ASHION CIR CUL A R P R OG R AMME M A N A G E R - E L L E N MA CA R THUR F OUND ATION. “ T H I S I S A N E X CI T ING S TEP F OR W A R D TOW AR D S CI RCUL A R DE S I G N F OR F ASHION."

59

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

THE MOVE TO NEAR-SHORING P akis tan bas ed A rtistic Milline rs a cquire s A ng eles s ite to o f f er ne a r- shoring se rvice s.

Los

Es t a b l i s he d i n 1 9 4 9 , A r t i s t i c Mi l l i ne rs i s a ve rti c al de ni m m a nuf a c t ur i ng c o m p a ny wi t h a stro ng f o c us o n wo me n e mpo we rme nt, inno v a t i o n & s us t a i na b i l i t y . S i nc e i ts i nc e pti o n, Arti sti c Mi l l i ne rs h a s b e e n a f r o nt r unne r i n the gl o bal te xti l e i ndustry and has be e n spe a r he a d i ng d e ni m i nno v a ti o n and sustai nabi l i ty ac ro ss the i ndustry.

To k i c k - s t a r t 2 0 2 1 a nd t o co nti nue the wi de spre ad shi f t wi thi n the ind us t r y t o t r a ns f o r m ho w de ni m i s de si gne d, so urc e d and pro duc e d, Art i s t i c Mi l l i ne r s ha s a nno unc e d that i t has ac qui re d a de ni m wash and f i ni s hi ng f a c t o r y i n L o s Ange l e s, C al i f o rni a. Wi th ambi ti o us p l a ns o f t ur ni ng i t i nt o a s t ate -o f -the -art garme nt manuf ac turi ng si te equi p p e d wi t h t he l a t e s t d i g i tal so l uti o ns, the ne w ve nture c al l e d S FI (S t a r s F a d e s I nt e r na t i o na l ) .

SF I wi l l b e p o we r e d b y t he l aundry l o ngte rm and e xi sti ng staf f and h o p e s t o a c c e l e r a t e A r t i s t i c Mi l l i ne rs spe e d to marke t i n we ste rn so c i e t i e s “T hi s a cqui s i t i o n g i v es us a s tra tegic fo o th o ld in th e U. S . , in a regio n w ith sig ni f i ca nt g eo g r a phi c a nd demo gra p h ic a d va n ta ges ,” Murtaza Ahmed, Artistic Milliners’ executive director.

The f a c i l i t y p l a ns t o o f f e r turnke y and c usto m wash and f i ni shi ng se r v i c e s t o l a r g e i nt e r na t i o nal brands and pre mi um spe c i al i ty l abe l s.

Th e f a c i l i t i e s c a p a c i t y i s c urre ntl y 100, 000 uni ts a mo nth and has p l a ns t o i nc r e a s e t ha t c a p a c i ty to 300, 000 uni ts a mo nth sho rtl y.

Th e L . A . L a und r y i s e q ui p p ed wi th l e adi ng we t and dry pro c e ss te c hno l o g i e s , i nc l ud i ng o z one , e -f l o w and l ase r mac hi ne s, al l o f whi c h r e d uc e t he a m o unt o f wa t e r and c he mi c al s use d i n a tradi ti o nal de ni m laund r y .

Th e q ue s t i o n no w, i s wi l l we se e mo re manuf ac ture rs ne ar-sho ri ng p r o d uc t i o n f a c i l i t i e s a r o und the wo rl d to gai n the e dge o ve r the i r co m p e t i t o r s a nd he l p r e d uce pro duc ts c arbo n f o o tpri nts?

W e e x p l o r e t hi s v e r y q ue s t io n i n an i nte rvi e w wi th Jo hn C o ndi l i s, c o fo und e r o f N o b o d y d e ni m i n the f o l l o wi ng page s.

60

G -S t a r - A rt ist ic Milliners C r a d l e t o Cra dle G o l d - Ra w R elz Bl a c k D enim

“Ca li fo rn ia ha s hi s t o r i ca l l y been a n im p ort a n t co r ner s t o ne f o r t he in t e rn a t i on a l deni m i ndus t r y . I n 2021, we a n t i ci pa t e i ncr ea s ed d e m a n d from i nt er na t i o na l r et a i l er s a n d b ra n d s f o r nea r - s ho r i ng c a p a c i t y , d ig it a l des i g n s er v i ces a nd su st a i n a bl e s o l ut i o ns , ” s a y s M ur t a z a A hmed. " O u r i n v e st m e nt i n t hi s f a ct o r y g i v es u s a l a u n c h pl a t f o r m i n t he U . S t o m e e t t h a t d e m a nd a s w e bui l d t he fa c t o ry o f t he f ut ur e. "

STAR FA DES I NTERNATI O NA L 61

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

CHANGING THE NARRATIVE " I c a n p ro v e a n y t hi ng by s t a t i s t i cs ex cept t h e tru th " - Ge o rge C anni ng.

Cott o n is th e mo s t wi d e s p r e a d p r o f i t a b l e no n-f o o d c ro p i n the wo rl d. Its pro duc ti o n p r ov id es i n co me f o r m o r e t ha n 2 5 0 m i l l i o n pe o pl e wo rl dwi de and e mpl o ys al mo st 7% of al l l ab o u r i n d e v e l o p i ng c o unt r i e s . A p p ro xi mate l y hal f o f al l te xti l e s are made o f cotto n .

Ac co r d i n g to th e W o r l d W i d e F und f o r N a t ure ( WWF) , the gl o bal re ac h o f c o tto n i s va st. Sti ll, cu r r e nt c o t t o n p r o d uc t i o n m e t h o ds are e nvi ro nme ntal l y unsustai nabl e and will u l timate ly u nd e r m i ne t he i nd us t r y ' s a bi l i ty to mai ntai n f uture pro duc ti o n.

The l ast few years ha v e hi g hl i g ht e d t he i ndustry' s human and e nvi ro nme ntal ne e d to foc u s o n th e ir sup p l y c ha i ns , k no wi ng a nd unde rstandi ng ho w, whe re and by who m th eir r aw mater i a l s a r e g r o wn a nd p r o d uc e d.

Fr om q u e sti o n s o f f o r c e d l a b o ur i n t he Xi n j i ang re gi o n o f C hi na and f al se pro duc ti o n q u an tities o f o r g a ni c c o t t o n, t hr o ug h t o hi gh wate r usage , i nappro pri ate and excessi v e u se o f p e s t i c i d e s a nd f e r t i l i z e r s , so i l de pl e ti o n and l and use pre ssure s for th e fu tu r e h a v e e a r ne d c o t t o n a b a d r eputati o n and a c o nsi de rabl e c o nc e rn f o r en vi r o n men talist s , hum a n r i g ht s a c t i v i s t s , c o nsume rs and the i ndustry al i ke .

In a d d i tio n to d e a l i ng wi t h t he p a nd e m i c , 2020 saw brands wo rl dwi de sc rambl i ng to r e - so u r ce th ei r c o t t o n s up p l y c ha i ns , s eve ri ng c o nne c ti o ns wi th f o rc e d l abo ur con cer n s an d en v i r o nm e nt a l d e g r a d a t i o n, whi l st tryi ng to me e t sustai nabi l i ty targe ts an d en su r e a co ns i s t e nt s up p l y . A m o ng s t thi s Fi bre T rac e ™ have appe are d o n the scen e an d ar e abo ut t o c ha ng e ho w we b uy, trac k and share ac c urate kno wl e dge ar ou n d co tto n and i t s s up p l y c ha i n.

It' s u n d er sto o d t ha t t he s t a t i s t i c s r e l a t i ng to the c o tto n suppl y c hai n are o utdate d, ina ccu r ate an d h e a v i l y b i a s e d t o wa r d s a v ari e ty o f i nf l ue nti al stake ho l de rs.

As an in d u str y k n o wn f o r b e i ng wr o ug ht w i th waste , we wo rk to wards usi ng data and stati sti cs th at r e p r e s e nt t he r e a l i t y , r a t he r than a stati c al l y ske we d pi c ture . We ne e d to c r e ate n e w b e nc hm a r k s o n ho w c o t t o n i s f arme d to day, i nste ad o f re f e re nc i ng d ata b ased o n o l d f a r m i ng t e c hni q ue s . C o tto n f armi ng i s di f f e re nt and c o nti nual l y evol v in g; as su ch , we ne e d ne w m e a s ur e me nts and transpare nt data that ac c urate l y info r ms th e i n d u s t r y , c o ns um e r s a nd a d d s to the e vo l uti o n o f f armi ng prac ti c e s. T he u n iqu e measu r e m e nt s wi l l a l s o d r i v e a ne w narrati ve , o ne that i s data-i nf o rme d and n ot b i ase d .

The te am at Go o d E a r t h C o t t o n a nd F i b r e T rac e are l o o ki ng to do thi s by di srupti ng th e co tto n su p p l y c ha i n a nd f a s hi o n i nd ustry by addi ng a who l e ne w l e ve l o f tr an sp ar en cy th a t we ha v e no t s e e n b e f o r e , dri vi ng a c hange i n the narrati ve aro und stati sti cs.

Br an d s w ill b e abl e t o m a k e t he r i g ht c ho i c e s f o r the i r suppl y c hai ns base d o n the i r loc atio n s. Co n su m e r s wi l l ha v e a c c e s s t o re al -ti me data and transpare nc y that r emo v es an y r i sk o f ' g r e e nwa s hi ng ' o ur t h i nki ng, c o nve rsati o ns and purc hase s.

The Co tto n n ar r a t i v e i s a b o ut t o c ha ng e , and i t' s re f re shi ng!

62

W W W.G O O DE A RT HC OTTON.COM /SUSTAINABILITY/

63

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

WHY GOOD EARTH COTTON? To p r o d u ce E a r t h' s m o s t e t hi c a l c o t t o n, the te am at Fi bre trac e are turni ng tradi ti o nal f ar mi n g te chni q ue s o n t he i r he a d . T he y que sti o n c o tto n f armi ng' s " c o nve nti o nal wi sdo m" at ev er y sta g e o f t he p r o d uc t i o n p r o ce ss. T he y have al so made l arge i nve stme nts i n bo th h igh te ch i nf r a s t r uc t ur e a nd e q ui p m e nt and the be st e xpe rti se i n sustai nabl e pro duc ti o n meth o d s.

To u n d e r sta nd why t hi s i s i m p o r t a nt to the i ndustry and the f uture o f c o tto n pro duc ti o n, Fib r etr ace he l p s us t o und e r s t a nd t he pro bl e ms o f to day' s c o nve nti o nal c o tto n pro duc ti o n, p ar ti cu l ar ly t r a d i t i o na l g r o wi ng m e t h o ds use d i n de ve l o pi ng c o untri e s.

The Problem Tr ad itio n al c o t t o n p r o d uc t i o n i s a s s o c i ate d wi th be i ng unsustai nabl e , une thi c al , and u n acco u n tab l e . C o nv e nt i o na l " o l d s c h o o l " f armi ng te c hni que s are waste f ul o f bo th water an d lan d u s e ; T hi s c o up l e d wi t h t he e xc e ssi ve appl i c ati o n o f c he mi c al s and f e rti l i z e rs.

Th e se p o o r c o t t o n f a r m i ng p r a c t i c e s l e ad to so i l sal i nati o n, de gradati o n o f so i l f e rti l i ty an d p o l lu ti o n o f wa t e r wa y s . F ur t he r m o re , the se prac ti c e s are hi ghl y i ne f f i c i e nt and l e ad to a b r o ad e r ne g a t i v e e nv i r o nm e nt a l f o o tpri nt.

Co n v e n ti o n a l c o t t o n f a r m i ng a l s o c ontri bute s to c l i mate c hange . T hi s happe ns whe n e x ce ssiv e v o l um e s o f ni t r a t e f e r t i l i z e r and c he mi c al s are appl i e d to de grade d so i l s. T he se so i ls h av e r e d uc e d c a r b o n s e q ue s t r a ti o n c apac i ty, addi ng to the " gre e nho use " e f f e c t.

Th i s u n su st a i na b l y p r o d uc e d c o t t o n i s the n bl e nde d i nto the gl o bal f ashi o n c o tto n su p p l y ch ain. A s a r e s ul t , t he g l o b a l c o tto n suppl y c hai n i s tai nte d wi th " une thi c al and u n tr ace ab le " c o t t o n; T hi s m a k e s i t v e ry di f f i c ul t f o r c o nsc i o us c o nsume rs to buy e thi c al l y acco u n tab le c o t t o n f a s hi o n. N o wo nde r tradi ti o nal c o tto n f armi ng ge ts suc h a bad rap!

Go o d E a rth C o tto n

GOOD EART H COTTO N DIS RU PTS THIS PRO CES S !

64 In f o r m a t i o n s o u r c e : G o o d E a r t h C o t t o n , S u n d o w n P a s t ora l | FibreT ra ce

To pr odu ce th e Ea r t h' s m o s t e t hi c a l c o t t o n – S undown Pasto r al , who m a k e G o o d E a r t h C o tto n from the ir 6 5 , 0 0 0 -a c r e Ke y t a h o p e r a t i o n turn t r a d ition al far mi n g t e c hni q ue s o n t he i r he a d . T he y qu estion th e " co n v en t i o na l wi s d o m " o f e v e r y stage of the co tto n p r o d u ct i o n p r o c e s s .

They q u estio n h o w c o t t o n c a n m e e t t he d e m ands of en vi r o n me n tal ly c o ns c i o us c o ns um e r s . C an cotton p r o d u ctio n b e he l d t o a c c o unt ? C a n co tto n pr od u cti o n al so b e g o o d f o r t he E a r t h? W e l l – T he y t hin k so . Th ey l earne d ho w t o p us h t he co tto n pr od u cti o n ch ai n 's b o und a r i e s t o p r o d uc e hi gh qu ality a n d eth ical co t t o n f i b r e s . E t hi c a l ? T he s e same high -q u al ity co tto n f i b r e s a r e a l s o i nd e p e nde ntl y cer tified as Car b o n P o s i t i v e , e nv i r o nm ental l y s usta ina b l e an d tr ace a b l e .

G ood Ear th Co tto n m a d e t hi s a c hi e v e m e nt ac ro ss t heir en tir e co tto n s up p l y c ha i n f r o m "s e ed to s helf"; T h i s i s n o sm a l l f e a t – i t ha s t a k e n many y e ar s of R & D , millio ns o f d o l l a r s a nd t he i nt e l l e c t and exp er i en ce o f " b e s t i n c l a s s " e xp e r t s .

The team co n tin u e t o p ut hi g h e t hi c a l s t a ndards and env ir o n me n tal s us t a i na b i l i t y a t t he ce ntre of ever yth i n g th ey d o . I t i s a n e v o l v i ng g o a l and defin itio n , an d w h at ' s ni c e i s t he y d o n' t c l a i m to k now all th e so lu ti o n s , a s we a r e a l l i nd e e d i n thi s t ogeth er an d co n ti n u a l l y l e a r ni ng . B ut t he y d o f o c us t heir effo r ts o n th e c r i t e r i a t ha t ha v e t he mo st s ignifican t imp act. I t i nf l ue nc e s t hr e e m a i n a r e as:

(1) their car b o n fo o tp r i nt , (2) efficien t r e so u r ce us e a nd (3) to b e acco u n tab l e .

Educatio n C o l l abo rati ng wi th the bri ghte st mi nds i n agricu ltu re me ans the S undo wn and Go o d Earth C otton team are o pe n to i nde pe nde nt f i e l d tri al s and research .

Fo r de c ade s the y have o pe ne d arms to i ndepen den t i ndustry f i e l d tri al s wi th bo th uni ve rsities an d go ve rnme nt-l e d re se arc h o rgani sati on s.

Th ey val ue thi s c o l l e c ti ve hi sto ry c o ntri buti n g to th eir sustai nabl e f armi ng te c hni que s and G ood Earth C o tto n’ s e thi c al c re de nti al s.

T o e mbrac e thi s f urthe r, the y have c o mmitted to th e re -de ve l o pme nt o f the i r i nf rastruc ture with state of the art f ac i l i ti e s that i nc l ude a l e c ture th eatre an d l arge sc al e c ate ri ng f ac i l i ti e s.

T he i r so l ar f e d Gre e n S tar bui l di ng a ims to be Pl ati num L e e d c e rti f i e d and the f i rst l arge scale B C o rp raw f i bre o pe rati o n o f i ts ki nd.

‘E veryon e d es erves t h e righ t t o be ed u cated.’

– whi c h i s why the y l o ve to share the i r time w ith stude nts, brands, c o l l e ague s and i ndus try bodies.

T he y e nj o y the i r te am gro wth by si tti ng on in du stry bo ards and parti c i pati ng i n the i r l o c al e commu n ity ac ti vi ti e s, bo th pre se nt and f uture .

www.go o dearthcotto n.com 65 I m age : Go o d Earth C o t t o n

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

PIONEERING A NEW ERA OF COTTON JOHN CONDILIS C o- fo u nd er , N o bo dy D enim We t o u c h e d b a se w ith John C ondilis, C o -f o u n d e r, a t Nobody D enim to discu ss w h a t i t w i l l t a k e to create a thriving m a n u f a c t u ri n g i n dustry onshore in A u s t r a l i a , a n d t alk about t hei r n e w p i o n e e ring and traceable co l l ec t i o n t h a t b rought consum ers t he w o rl d ’s f i rst com pletely traceable co l l ec t i o n – f ro m seed through to s t o re u si n g G o o d E arth C otton and F i b re Tra c e ™ C an you tell u s a b o ut N o b o d y D e ni m a nd h ow the br a n d s ta rt e d ?

T h e bran d star ted i n 1 9 9 1 whe n t he i nd us t r y wa s in se cu r e , an d t a r i f f r e d uc t i o ns we r e b e i n g in tr od u ced . B y th e y e a r 2 0 0 0 , t he i d e a wa s t o r educ e tar i ffs fu r th e r b y e i t he r 1 0 p e r c e nt o r 20 p er ce n t to allo w o r g a ni z a t i o ns t o p r o d uc e offsho r e.

By the mid - 9 0 s, th e wr i t i ng wa s o n t he wa l l , a n d the in d u str y w a s r e d uc i ng a l o t q ui c k e r tha n it n e ed e d to be . A l o t o f t he o r g a ni z a t i ons wer e d o in g a r ap i d s hi f t o v e r t o A s i a f o r m an u factu r i n g, w h i c h c r e a t e d a s i g ni f i c a nt g ap in our i n d u str y h ere i n A us t r a l i a f o r a c r e d i bl e pr oduc t, a go o d b r a nd , i nno v a t i o n t hr o ug h t o R&D. A t th at p o in t i n t i m e we we r e a d e ni m ser vic e p r o v id er . W e ha d t o a s k o ur s e l v e s "wha t ar e w e d o i n g " a nd "wha t d o we e nj o y doin g? " . Li k e mo st, we d ug d e e p a nd l o o k e d at wha t we d o an d w ha t we k ne w b e s t ? D e ni m .

66 I m age : N O B O DY DEN I M

We st i l l wa nt e d t o c o nt i nue i n de ni m, an d th a t ' s whe n t he c o nc e p t o f No B o dy D en im s t a r t e d . I t wa s n' t j us t a bo ut us; i t w as a b o ut p e o p l e , a nd ho w we c o ul d i n v o l v e t he c o m m uni t y a r o und us; he nc e th e b r a nd na m e N o b o d y . T he r e i s no f ac e to i t, a nd s o t he p ur p o s e wa s h o w do yo u co llab o r a t e a nd e na b l e e v e r y o n e who i s so me b o d y t o b e p a r t o f t hi s c ommuni ty.

Wer e t he re a ny D e ni m w e a v i n g mills a t th a t t i m e ?

Ye s, t he r e wa s B r a d m i l l ; r a t e d as o ne o f th e b e s t d e ni m m i l l s i n t he wo rl d. At that ti me , t he c o unt r y ha d t he r e s o urc e s, the te ch n o l o g y , s k i l l s a nd r e v e nue . B radmi l l w er e s hi p p i ng f ul l c o nt a i ne r s o f f abri c s to D ie s e l e a c h m o nt h. D i e s e l w as o ne o f th e le a d i ng d e ni m b r a nd s g l o b al l y at that ti me , a nd t he y we r e b uy i ng m o st o f the i r d e n i m f r o m B r a d m i l l , he r e i n A ustral i a.

Sad ly whe n e v e r y o ne m o v e d t o pro duc e o ffsh o r e , B r a d m i l l s o t he r c l i e n ts we nt u n d e r , m a k i ng B r a d m i l l a l s o c l o se . T o day al l o f t he i r m a c hi ne r y ha s g o ne and i s n o lo n g e r o ns ho r e . B a c k i n t he ' 80s & 9 0 's L e v i ' s wa s l o c a l l y p r o d uc e d, and th ey w e r e m a k i ng 5 0 ,0 0 0 p a i r s o f L e vi s p e r w e e k o ut o f A d e l a i d e , whi c h was n o t ev e n t he c e nt r a l hub f o r d e ni m i n Au str a l i a , Me l b o ur ne wa s , s o t h at sho ws yo u h o w b i g t he m a r k e t wa s a t that ti me .

I M A GE : B R A D M I L L

We h a d o t he r b r a nd s l i k e J us t J e ans; Co u n t r y Ro a d a l s o p r o d uc e d he re , the i n d u s t r y wa s g r o wi ng a nd p r o f i tabl e . We w er e wa s hi ng T e nc e l ™ j e a ns f or Kmart at th a t t i m e , whi c h s ho ws y o u ho w af fo r da b l e i t wa s .

We fo r g e t t o d a y ho w b i g t he i n dustry w as a t t ha t p o i nt .

I M A G E: N O B O DY DEN I M

67

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

W h at do y o u th in k t he ke y b e ne f i t s a re to p r o ducin g fa s h io n o nsho re ?

A nd ho w c a n ot h e rs l ea r n f r o m y o ur ex per i enc es ?

C a n yo u s h a re s o me o f yo u r lea rn in gs , ex per i enc es a n d in s igh ts in to th is is s u e?

Sp eed to mar k et, co nt r o l o f y o ur I P a nd c o ntro l of qua l ity .

Pe o pl e ne e d to unde rstand that the re a re direct c o sts and al so i ndi re c t c o sts whe n produ cin g a pro duc t. What do e s i t c o st yo u as a bu sin ess to manuf ac ture o f f sho re that' s no t di re c tly related to the physi c al FOB pro duc ts and produ ction ?

T i me spe nt de ve l o pi ng, and samplin g is i ndi re c t c o sts that yo u do n' t se e , but requ ire re so urc e s to ge t yo ur o utc o me . No on e h as put a me asure me nt o r a val ue agai nst th at. So a de si gne r o r brand ne e ds to unde rsta n d w h at that l o o ks l i ke , and what po te nti al l y c ou ld th ey save ? L o c al manuf ac turi ng, o r bri ngi n g th in gs bac k o nsho re wi th sc al e , c re ate s l o we r cost-ofgo o ds.

C OVID - 1 9 has p re s e nt e d sho rt - t erm opp o r tu n ities fo r d o m e st i c m a nuf a c t ure rs . Do you se e l on g -t e rm p o t ent i a l f o r t hes e o ppo r t unities in a po st -C OVI D -19 e nv i r o nm ent ?

For the fash io n ind us t r y , N o ; I d o n' t t hi nk i t is pos sib le d u e to l o y a l t y . U nl e s s b i g b r a nds a r e be h i n d it an d he l p c r e a t e a s us t a i nabl e m an u factu r i n g in d u s t r y , wi t h a 3 - 5 y e a r i ni ti al loya lty p lan th at a l l o ws t he s e c t o r b e c o me sta b le an d sets th e f o und a t i o ns t o c o nt i nue to gr ow o f f th at ser v ic e , i t c a n' t ha p p e n. T he s mal l br a n d s can n o t h e lp t he m a nuf a c t ur e r s a c hi e ve susta inab i lity in b e c o m i ng a s e c ur e a nd s t abl e busin ess to gr o w o ns ho r e m a nuf a c t ur i ng .

Mate ri al s are made by e qui pme nt, so th e cost o f pro duc i ng i s re aso nabl y standard across the wo rl d unl e ss yo ur e ne rgy c o sts are h igh , af f e c ti ng the pri c e .

Man y des ig n er s a nd c o m p a ni e s worry th at o n s h o r e pr od uc t i o n wo ul d re sul t in th e i r pr o du ct pr ic i ng b e i ng unc o m p e t i t i v e, b ase d o n m a n u fa c t uri ng c o st s i n d e ve l o p ed c o u n tr ies bein g hi g he r. c o unt ri e s b e ing h i gh er.

Wi th e ve rythi ng happe ni ng nati o nally n ow , l o o ki ng at ho w we c an de ve l o p a dvan ced Austral i an manuf ac turi ng i s c ri ti c al . So w h at do e s i t l o o k l i ke to be advanc e d manuf actu rin g?

Its ne w te c hno l o gy, ne w e qui pme nt, smarter ways o f pro duc i ng, mo re i nte l l i ge nt w ay s of uti l i z i ng re so urc e s, the se are al l a gi ve n , n ot on ly Austral i a but gl o bal l y, as no w the gl o bal market i s c o mpe ti ng i n the same way. S o the min dset ne e ds to be c o mmi tte d. If brands are c ommitted thro ugh sc al e and i nve stme nt wi th su pport f ro m the ri ght ke y bo di e s, whe the r go v ern men t o r i nsti tuti o ns, advanc e d manuf ac tu rin g can c o nti nue to gro w, but i t' s a te n-year plan .

Eve ryo ne ne e ds to unde rstand that.

68

I m ag e : N ob o d y De n i m

Supply Cha ins a ll ov er the world we re hit ha rd by the pa ndemic . F rom ra w m at e rial shorta g es to la c k of a c c ess to crit ical c omponents a s fa c tories a nd mills we nt dark a nd work ers rema ined a t home.

H a ve th ere b een a n y p a rticu la r co mp o nents that N o b o d y D en im fo u n d h a rd to a cces s d ur i ng thi s time a n d a re cu rren tly n o t ma d e o n s h or e, whi c h yo u w o u ld lo ve to s ee p ro d u ced h ere in the futur e?

Fabri c . T he pro bl e m we have f ac e d this y ear is c o st and l e ad ti me s aro und f abri c shipmen ts.

We have al so to re me mbe r the trade wars th at are o c c urri ng gl o bal l y. T he c hanne l of en try f o r o ur f abri c s i s thro ugh C hi na, wh eth er its o ri gi n i s T urke y o r e l se whe re i n Euro pe, it stops i n shanghai and has a transhi pme nt th at th en c o me s do wn to us. T hat' s be e n the path w ay , so i f yo u have to c hange that to S in gapore, what happe ns to c o nge ste d S i ngapo re? It n ow e xte nds yo ur shi pme nt by 2-4 we e ks, so y ou r e nti re l e ad ti me i nc re ase s to 8-10 we eks on th e bo at, so what do yo u do , yo u have to air freigh t, and i nstantl y yo ur c o sts have ac c e l e rated by ten ti me s. It use d to be f o ur o r f i ve , and no w it's ten .

What wo ul d have c o st e i ght tho usand dollars

p r evio u sl y d ollar s?

is

now

c o s t i ng

e i g ht y

t ho us and

The m an u f actu r e r s o f r a w m a t e r i a l s are con tinu in g to p r o duc e a nd m i t i g a t e t he i r ri sk.

Wha t h as ch an ge d i s t he g e nui ne c o m m i t m e nt an d flex ib ility fr o m a f i na nc i a l p e r s p e c t i v e , w i th th em b ei n g a b i t m o r e a c c o m m o d a t i ng . F a bri c mills a r e n o l o n ge r g o i ng t o a l l o w l a r g e - s cal e b r an d s to h o l d th o us a nd s o f m e t e r s o f f a b r i c at th e mills' r i sk ; i t's n o t g o i ng t o ha p p e n a ny m ore .

Factor ies h av e b e nt o v e r b a c k wa r d s t o s up po rt b r an d s i n th e p ast d ue t o t he i r c o m m i t m e n t to keep ing th at b r and p r o d uc i ng wi t h t he m and h avin g p r o d u ctio n f l o w wi t h e a s e .

Covid-1 9 saw b r an d s wa l k a wa y f r o m b o t h f a bri c an d r aw mate r ial c o m m i t m e nt s t ha t f a c t o ri e s h ad p u r ch ase d u p f r o nt . W i t h b r a nd s i n t he US A an d Eu r o p e mo v i ng s o m e p r o d uc t i o n ne arsh or e, v ast amo u nt s o f hi g h- v a l ue t e xt i l e s have b een ab an d o n e d i n f a c t o r i e s a c r o s s C hi na i n lea d ing an d legi tim a t e f a c t o r i e s . O f f i c e s taf f an d wo r k e r s lo st th e i r j o b s , d i d n' t g e t p a i d , and lost thei r p e n sio n s a nd f a c t o r i e s c l o s e d d o wn.

Beside s, h u n d r ed s o f t ho us a nd s o f m e t e r s o f fa b r ic h av e b e en w a s t e d .

We ar e ex cited t o se e t ha t N o b o d y D e n im i s wor k in g to bec o m e m o re e ne rg y - e f f i c i ent an d deca r bo n iz e y o ur b usi ne s s i n a l i g nment wi th th e P a r is Clim a t e A c c o rd .

Can yo u t e ll u s a b o ut y o ur j o ur ney , pl a ns a n d learnin g so fa r i n rea chi ng net - zer o by 2 0 5 0 ?

Nobody denim is g oing from streng th t o streng th in supporting both A ustralian Ma de a nd more rec ently , A ustra lia n Grow n.

C a n yo u tell u s a b o u t yo u r la tes t p a rtn ers h ip wi th F ib reT ra ce, a n d w h y yo u th in k th is p a rtn e r shi p is a mo d el fo r o th ers in th e in d u s try to fo llow?

It al l starte d wi th a pho ne c al l , whe re D anielle S tratham f ro m S undo wn pasto ral wanted to unde rstand what i t take s to c re ate a brand an d make j e ans. A sc he dul e d o ne -ho ur me etin g ran f o r f o ur de ve l o pe d c o nve rsati o ns th at c re ate d ho ne sty and trust ri ght f ro m the s tart.

No bo dy l o ve d the i de a o f usi ng Australian c o tto n; we l o ve d the i de a as i t was re al. W e al l had the same val ue s, so , ho w do we make thi s wo rk? . We saw a ne t po si ti ve be hi n d it, no t o nl y j ust a c arbo n po si ti ve f i bre but also that the y we re pi o ne e ri ng so me thi ng di f f eren t he re , whi c h Austral i a hasn' t do ne f o r su ch a l o ng ti me .

Ho w c an we bri ng bac k i nno vati o n wi th th at ' c an-do ' atti tude and c re ate so me thi ng on a gl o bal sc al e and de l i ve r i t and say " we c a n do i t f ro m he re and we c an be c o me l e ade rs an d i nno vato rs" I thi nk that was the i nte nt from No bo dy and the S trathe ms. Orta, Nobody de ni m' s f abri c suppl i e r i n T urke y, l o ve d th e i de a and i t al l c ame to ge the r, e ve ryo ne was so po si ti ve , and i t was; go o d!

We lear n ed th at s o m a ny f a c t o r s i nf l ue nc e th ese typ es o f su cc e s s a nd s o m a ny c a n b e o ut of you r co n tr o l . Ev e r y o ne ne e d s t o b e o n the same p age, y o u r m i l l , a c c e s s o r y a nd l a b e l l i ng p r od u cer , p ack ag i ng , logistics c o m p a n i e s, sh ippi n g co mp an ie s , e t c .

B o th D ani e l l e and I are ve ry si mi l ar. We are passi o nate , and i f we be l i e ve i n so me th in g we do n' t l e t the ne gati ve take c o ntro l. W e tho ught, " wo ul dn' t i t be gre at i f two Australian c o mpani e s i n the de ni m spac e , f ro m c o tton to de ni m, de ve l o pe d so me thi ng trac e abl e th at no o ne e l se has do ne and de l i ve r i t to th e wo rl d, wo ul dn' t that be f antasti c " .

T hat was o ur ke y dri ve r!

H ow do y o u r ed u c e t ha t who l e s up p l y c hai n, inc ludi n g tr an sp o r t a nd e q ui p m e nt ? I t ' s al so h ar d -w o r k i n g w i th o v e r s e a s c o m p a ni e s a s t he y migh t n o t b e o n t he s a m e p a g e . E v e r y o ne i s tr yin g to get o n b o a r d t he 2 0 5 0 ne t - z e r o t a r g e ts, b u t it' s h ar d w i th o ut k no wi ng wha t d i r e c t io ns oth er p eo p le ar e t a k i ng a nd ho w t ha t a f f ec ts your su p p ly ch ai n. W ha t i nd us t r i e s a r e t he y tar get in g? Wh at i s t he p l a n? I t ' s ha r d t o k no w.

The F ibreTra c e pla tform a llows supply chain pa rtners to input da ta a nd c ertific a t ions a t ea c h sta g e of the supply c ha in, weaving tog ether a c omplete pic ture of the fib re s ' journey , rev ea ling its c a rbon emissi ons , energ y usa g e, a nd wa ter c onsumption.

I n w h a t w a ys d o yo u th in k F ib reT ra ce a n d other Blo ckch a in tech n o lo gy w ill h elp ch a n ge the n a rra tive a ro u n d co tto n ' s w a ter u s a ge?

In th e d e n i m i n d u s t r y , we wo ul d l o v e t o use zer o water in th e l a und r y . W ha t a b o ut m a ki ng an d dy ei n g? Th er e a r e l o t s o f unk no wn R& D

Whe n tal ki ng abo ut wate r usage , yo u can o nl y go o n what the c o tto n gro we r pro vides yo u wi th, and the audi ti ng pro c e ss i s th e ke y. Fi bre T rac e pe rf o rms a l e gi ti mate selfaudi t whe re the y do te sti ng that de livers the o utc o me s aro und the wate r usage, e mi ssi o ns, and so f o rth. T he i r audi t i s don e i nde pe nde ntl y, and the y be l i e ve i t pro vides the de si re d re sul ts.

T he y are se tti ng the standard o f w h at the y be l i e ve the e nd go al sho ul d be . Th e ne w standard take s gro we rs, i ndustry an d c o nsume rs o n the j o urne y to sho w th em what the f i bre gro we rs have do ne , and th eir o utstandi ng re sul ts.

Plus, ar e w e o v e r c o m p l i c a t i ng t hi ng s ? S ho ul d we go b ack to w h e r e we we r e a t ? A r e we us i ng mor e w ater th an w e we r e b e f o r e ? W he n we f i rst star ted , w e r e w e be t t e r , o r a r e we b e t t e r t oday th an t h e n ? We n ee d t o k no w t he s e b e nc hm a rks, b u t the se h av e n ev e r d o c um e nt e d . W e ne e d to kn ow th e b asel in e s a nd whe r e we c a m e f ro m to u n d e r stan d w ha t we a r e c o m p a r i ng and measu r in g to o i s a c c ur a t e ? H o w d o we s o l ve th is?

69

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

How do y o u th in k t hi s t e c hno l o g y c a n ch an ge bu s in es s m o d e l s a nd i m p a c t con su m er beh a v io u r g o i ng f o rwa rd ?

In d u str y b e h av io u r ! - i t c r e a t e s m o r e t r us t .

Tha t' s th e n u mb er o ne t hi ng ; I t r us t wha t I do an d w h at my p ro d uc t d e l i v e r s f r o m a v alue a n d p r o d u ct p e r s p e c t i v e - T ha t ' s t he cr itic al th i n g.

For c on su me r s, i ts wha t d o e s t he ne xt step lo o k lik e to th e c o ns um e r l e v e l ? I t ' s now d o w n to u s as a b r a nd , a nd i t ' s a b o ut us b eing tr an sp ar e nt a nd s ha r i ng t he i n for m ati o n w e h av e . I t ' s a n e d uc a t i o na l pr ocess, as th e y wi l l a s k , wha t d o e s tha t me an ? Wh i ch i s g r e a t . S o ha v i ng br an d s w i th an ed u c a t i o na l a r m , whi c h I b eliev e i s th e de v e l o p m e nt o n f r o m cur r ent su stai n ab i li t y d e p a r t m e nt s , wi l l be ess e n ti al. Th e s t o r y t e l l i ng , a nd t he i n for m ati o n an d au t he nt i c i t y a b o ut b e i ng real, a b o u t w h at y o u d e l i v e r , a nd t he reason b eh in d i t, b e c o m e s a n e d uc a t i o na l pla tfor m i n itse lf. Th a t ' s t he k e y .

Do yo u th in k leg is l a t i o n wi l l b e ne e d e d to mak e fa s h io n b ra nd s c ha ng e ho w th e y p r o du ce th eir p ro d uc t s t o d a y?

I will sa y n o , as i t i s t o o b l a c k a nd whi t e with legi sl atio n , an d t he r e i s no r o o m f o r cr ea tivi ty o r an yth i ng o ut s i d e o f t he b o x with R& D . Sh o u l d the r e b e s t a nd a r d s t ha t need to b e met? Yes If you cr eate l egi sl at i o n y o ur t hi nk i ng wi l l be n ar r o w , yo u w il l ha v e y o ur b l i nk e r s o n, a n d y o u w i ll k no w t ha t y o u c a n' t g o o utsid e o f th at, as i t wo ul d b e a g a i ns t the law . B u t ch allen g i ng t he wa y y o u d o thin gs is cr i tical. I f we p ut l e g i s l a t i o n i n pla ce wh en w e k n o w t he r e i s a b e t t e r way of d o in g so m e t hi ng b ut r e q ui r e s som eth in g o u t o f th e no r m , i t c o ul d l i m i t the indu str y d o w n th e t r a c k .

So I st r u ggl e w i th l e g i s l a t i o n, a s t he y o nly kn o w b l ack and whi t e . I ha v e g o ne thr ough th is i n Au s t r a l i a , a nd t he y ha v e no in d u str y k n o w l edg e , s o we a r e b e t t e r o ff witho u t i t.

Wh at do y o u th in k t he d e ni m in d u stries ' mo s t s ig ni f i c a nt c ha l l e ng e s a re cr ea tin g a "s h a re d v i s i o n o f a be tter den im w o r ld .

How m an y d iffer e n t t y p e s o f d e ni m d o we need in th e w o r ld ?

How man y d iffer e n t f a b r i c s c a n we ha v e and wh at d o w e n ee d t he m t o d o ?

70

This pa g e : Te rri to ry J e an Te rri to ry B y No b o d y d e ni m

FIBR ET RACE X NOBODY DE NIM • WATCH HERE

L e t' s tal k abo ut stre tc h f abri c s - If w e look bac k 10-15 ye ars ago , we o n ly h ad 98/2 that' s al l i t was 98% c o tto n 2% elastan e.

If yo u wante d so me thi ng wi th a bit more stre ngth, the y c re ate d T 400, it w as still 98/2, but had mo re stre tc h and delivered a pe rf e c t authe nti c j e an that l asted lon ger and i s sti l l use d to day.

Yo u have e ve rythi ng f ro m 75% cotton an d di f f e re nt po l ye ste rs, l yc ra an d elastan e i n to day' s wo rl d. Ho w many variation s of po l ye ste r, e l astane and l yc ra v ersion s can we have o r ne e d? What are all of th ese bl e nds de l i ve ri ng that' s di f f e ren t?

T he y are c ausi ng us mo re i ssues, especially to o ur e nvi ro nme nt thro ug h blen ded mate ri al waste .

What the mi l l s have do ne is given th e brands, who want so me thi ng n ew , more o pti o ns and sai d that thi s gives y ou an e xtra 3% stre tc h and the n th e bran ds want to be f i rst to the marke t w ith it. It's no t pro ve n i n mo st c ase s that th e fabric e ve n de l i ve rs anythi ng ne w!

It' s c ausi ng mo re re turns an d th erefore mo re waste , as j e ans are si z e d differen tly , so gi rl s f i t i nto j e ans that they previou sly c o ul dn' t due to the stre tc h.

We c an' t c o nti nue l i ke thi s!

w w w .no b o d yd e ni m . c o m

T h i s P a g e : T e r r i t o r y s k i r t T e r r i t o r y By Nobody denim

71

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

H OW IT WORK S TODAY FibreTrace FibreTrace embeds scannable, luminescent pigments into any fibre right at the raw material stage.

The Pigments are made into a slurry and applied to cotton during ginning.

It utilises liquid viscose to ensure that the pigments bond to the cotton lint.

FibreTrace equals between 0.01%0.05% (227kg cotton lint) of the overall composition for the fibre. It does not affect the hand feel and has zero impact on dyeing and finishing.

FT device scans lint at the gin, and again when shipping out.

Carbon Positive Cotton Nobody Denim used Good Earth Cotton grown in Moree, New South Wales by Sundown Pastoral Company team at Keytah Station in their capsule collection. Not only is it the world’s first carbon-positive traceable cotton – but it’s also the most waterefficient cotton produced on Earth according to Sundown.

FibreTrace Sliver spun with yarn FibreTrace device scans yarn before shipping, recording data on the FibreTrace platform.

FibreTrace is embedded into Good Earth Cotton at the cotton gin, straight from the farm.

A small handheld FibreTrace scanning device is used to scan the cotton as its baled up, confirming that specific cotton is 100% Good Earth Cotton.

Good Earth Cotton

D rago ntre e

" EV E RY FIB R E TEL L S A STORY, OU R S IS A CA RBON P O S IT I VE ONE" NO B O DY DE NIM

72

Purchase The Dragontree platform will revolutionise how fibre is traded globally. Currently, a mass commodity system, Dragontree will allow the industry to shift from a commoditydriven preferred fibre market to a decommoditised model where specific growers are nominated to produce cotton directly to brands with a differentiated value.

Growers will be able to utilise the

Fibre Impact Module data to differentiate their fibre on the Dragontree platform and trade fibre directly with brands based on the quality of their farming methods and their impact on the environment.

Weaving Mills FibreTrace device scans yarn arrival at the fabric mill, verifying it is Good Earth Cotton and tracking the product's movement. Once the fabric is woven, it is scanned again to verify Good Earth Cotton's content and recorded on the blockchain, before shipping.

Warehouse/ DC FibreTrace device scans finished products on arrival to the warehouse The Product is scanned one last time to record the journey before it is sent out to a customer from the warehouse or within a retail store.

As FibreTrace is a tracer pigment, it is installed within the fibre to ensure it withstands the most rigorous treatments, washing, and lasts through to reuse and recycle.

Optional: FT devices can be installed at retail and scanned on arrival to store.

Garment Manufacturer FibreTrace device scans fabric on arrival to the garment manufacturer and before garment production. In this case, the material is scanned upon arrival at Nobody Denim in Melbourne, Australia to confirm it is Good Earth Cotton. The information is recorded on the blockchain platform.

From there, the fabrics are cut and skillfully constructed into Nobody Denim product.

Optional: Install scanners at laundry house for denim.

FT device scans goods at packing before shipping.

Swing Ticket Swing tickets or printed labels with a unique QR code that links to the consumer-facing FT site can be added to each product.

Consumers can then access the platform to review the brands' transparent supply chain and learn each item's story.

w w w . n o b o d y d e n i m . c o m / pa ges/fibret ra ce w w w.fibret ra ce.io/

73

© UN Photo / Kibae Park

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

CLEAN WATER AND SANITATION: WHY IT MATTERS What’s the goal here?

To ensure access to safe water sources and sanitation for all.

Why? Access to water, sanitation and hygiene is a human right.

The demand for water has outpaced population growth, and half the world’s population is already experiencing

74

severe water scarcity at least one month a year.

Water is essential not only to health, but also to poverty reduction, food security, peace and human rights, ecosystems and education. Nevertheless, countries face growing challenges linked to water scarcity, water pollution, degraded waterrelated ecosystems and cooperation over transboundary water basins.

2.2 billion

people around the world still lack safely managed drinking water, including

785 million without basic drinking water

What are the challenges to lack of access to safe water and sanitation?

In 2017, an estimated 3 billion people worldwide lacked the ability to safely wash their hands at home – one of the cheapest, easiest and most effective ways to prevent the spread of diseases like the coronavirus.

Water, sanitation and hygiene services are also not always available at medical care facilities: in 2016, one in four facilities around the world lacked basic water supplies, one in five had no sanitation services, and two in five had no soap and water or alcohol-based hand rub, at points of care.

And today, 4.2 billion people are still faced with daily challenges accessing even the most basic of services. Of these, 673 million people practised open defecation.

By managing our water sustainably, we are also able to better manage our production of food and energy and contribute to decent work and economic growth. Moreover, we can preserve our

water ecosystems, their biodiversity, and take action on climate change.

Are water and climate changed linked?

Water availability is becoming less predictable in many places. In some regions, droughts are exacerbating water scarcity and thereby negatively impacting people’s health and productivity and threatening sustainable development and biodiversity worldwide.

Ensuring that everyone has access to sustainable water and sanitation services is a critical climate change mitigation strategy for the years ahead.

Without better infrastructure and management, millions of people will continue to die every year from water-related diseases such as malaria and diarrhoea, and there will be further losses in biodiversity and ecosystem resilience, undermining prosperity and efforts towards a more sustainable future.

What can we do?

Civil society organizations should work to keep governments accountable, invest in water research and development, and promote the inclusion of women, youth and indigenous communities in water resources governance.

Generating awareness of these roles and turning them into action will lead to win-win results and increased sustainability and integrity for both human and ecological systems.

You can also get involved in the World Water Day and World Toilet Day campaigns that aim to provide information and inspiration to take action on hygiene issues.

To find out more about Goal #6 and the other Sustainable Development Goals, visit: http://www.un.org/ sustainabledevelopment wateractiondecade.org

75

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

TARGETS 6.1 By 2030 , ac h i eve uni vers a l an d e q uit a b le a c c e ss t o sa f e a nd a f f o r d a b l e d rinking w ater for al l 6.2 By 2030 , ac h i eve ac c ess to a d e q ua t e a nd e q uit a b le sa nit a t io n a n d h y giene for al l an d end open de f e c a t io n, p a y ing sp e c ia l a t t e nt io n t o t h e n eed s of wom en an d gi rl s an d tho se in vulne r a b le sit ua t ions 6.3 By 203 0, i m prove water qua lit y b y r e d uc ing p o llut ion, e limina t in g d ump ing and m i n i m i zi ng the rel ea se o f ha za r d ous c he mic a ls a nd ma t e r ia ls , h alv ing t he proporti on of u ntrea t e d w a st e w a t e r a nd sub st a nt ia lly inc r e a sin g r ecy cling and safe re use g l obal l y 6.4 By 2030 , s ubs ta nti al l y i nc rea se w a t e r - use e f f ic ie nc y a c r oss a ll se c t o rs and ensure s ustai na bl e wi thdra w a ls a nd sup p ly o f f r e shw a t e r t o a d d r e s s wat er scarcity an d s ubs ta nti al l y r e d uc e t he numb e r of p e op le suf f e r ing f r om wat er scarcity 6.5 By 2030, i m pl em ent i n te grated w a t e r r e sour c e s ma na ge me nt a t a ll le ve ls , i n clud ing t hrough tra nsbou ndary c oo p e r a t ion a s a p p r o p r ia t e 6.6 By 2020, prote c t an d resto r e w a t e r - r e la t e d e c osy st e ms, inc lud in g mount ains, fore sts , wetl an ds , ri ve r s, a q uif e r s a nd la k e s 6.A By 2030, e xpa nd i n te rn a t iona l c oo p e r a t ion a nd c a p a c it y - b uild in g s u p p ort t o deve l opi ng c ountri e s in w a t e r - a nd sa nit a t ion- r e la t e d a c t ivit ies and p rogram m es, i n c l u di ng water ha r ve st ing, d e sa lina t io n, w a t e r e f f ic ie nc y , wast ewat er trea tm ent, rec yc l i ng a nd r e use t e c hnologie s 6.B Sup p ort a nd s trengthe n the p a r t ic ip a t io n o f loc a l c o mmunit ie s i n i m p rov ing water a nd san i tati on m a na ge me nt

76

"EV ERYT H ING WE D O DURI NG A ND A F T E R T HIS CRISIS [ C OV I D - 1 9 ] M UST BE WI T H A ST RONG FOCUS ON BUI L D I NG M ORE E QUA L , INCLUSIV E AND SUSTA I NA BL E E C ONOM I E S AND SO CIET IES T H AT A RE M ORE RE SI L I E NT IN T HE FACE OF PA ND E M I C S, C L I M AT E CHANGE, AND T H E M A NY OT H E R GL OBA L C H A L L E NGE S WE FAC E ."

ANTÓNIO GU TERRES S ECRETARY- GENERAL, UNITED NATIONS

77

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

ONE PERSONS WASTE IS ANOTHER PERSONS TREASURE In these times of uncertainty and climate change, we realise what was once considered waste as something of beauty and transformation.

We have picked some of our favourite mills, manufacturers, artists, innovators and creative people saving precious materials from landfill and giving them a new meaning.

78

Remanent Yarn/ deadstock leftover from USA brand production | F o r sal e at www.rawassembly.com | A ustralia & New Zealan d sal es o n l y

79

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

"The challenges of today and the future are endless— materials, waste, consumption, education, design and, again, the age-old narrative that we must sacrifice our ecosystem to live pleasurably.

But, just as we have all these challenges, we see a tremendous opportunity to explore and manifest solutions.

We must not forget that throughout history, civilisations who have failed often abused the system that sustained them. Those who have thrived have withstood great challenges, withstood earthshaking change with creative collaboration and resilience.

Humanity has sustainable design encoded genetically in our bodies, and that earthshaking change can ultimately be for the better.

New generations excite us. We believe through time we have developed a deeper understanding and appreciation for empathy, consciousness, and creativity. These three basic attributes have the power to, in time, change our course, and perhaps guide us to the most innovative and giving phase we have ever seen. We hope we live to see it."

AR IANN E & J OANNA EN GELBERG THE NEW DENIM PROJECT

80

I m age : T he N e w De ni m P r o j e c t

www.thenewdenimproject.com

81

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Denim Reimagined PRE-CONSUMER WASTE UPCYCLED

If you have been following us at RawAssembly and also had the chance to join us at our last event in Melbourne, then you will be familiar with The New Denim Project. For those who are just joining the conversation, then we are sure you will love who and what The New Denim Project stand for.

The New Denim Project or TNDP are a third-generation textile mill located in Guatemala since 1956. Through the generations of family members, they have continued to evolve in the manufacture of sustainable cotton yarn and fabrics.

Collecting pre-consumer denim off-cuts from local jeans manufacturers cutting tables, grounding those scraps back into fibre to spin once again into new yarns, and weave fresh upcycled fabrics.

During their production process, they use no synthetic fibres during their technical upcycling process - making all of their yarns and fabrics 100% natural and compostable.

Their waste from their upcycling process is passed onto coffee framers to use as compost to grow speciality coffee in the highlands of Guatemala -allowing then to proudly operate under a circular economy, like the earth itself.

WATC H O UR INTE R

NI

ROJECT MP 82

ITH THE NEW WW DE

CLICK H ERE

VIE

-

TO

2021/22 TNDP COLLECTION

CRETA - 14 5 gr / m 2 Gauze fabric 100% Recycled Denim

GARDENIA - 366 gr / m 2 Plain weave fabric 100% Recycled Denim

FELCE - 354 gr / m 2 Twill 100% Recycled Denim

PAROS - 145 gr / m 2 Gauze fabric 100% Recycled Denim

BETULLA - 354 gr / m 2 Plain weave fabric 100% Recycled Denim

BRIGITTE - 233 gr / m 2 Plain weave fabric 100% Recycled Denim

KOS- 183 gr / m 2 Gauze fabric 100% Recycled Denim

PALOVERDE - 354 gr / m 2 Twill 100% Recycled Denim

BILLIE - 485 gr / m 2 Twill 100% Recycled Denim 83

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RESPONSIBLE M AT E R I A L S For th ose se ek i n g d e ni m l o o k f a b r i c s i n l i g ht e r weights fo r d r esse s, s hi r t s a nd t r o us e r s t ha t a re no t fr om r e cycled co n ten t , b ut o t he r na t ur a l f i b r es, he re a r e som e o f o u r fav o ur i t e s .

AR T ICL E : MIL L : COMPOS IT ION: WE IG HT :

RA-AB L -0003 AB L INAS 100% L i nen 230 gm/ 2 www.linas.lt

AR T ICL E : MIL L : COMPOS IT ION:

WE IG HT :

AR T ICL E : MIL L : COMPOS IT ION: WE IG HT :

MFT S L B W (Blu e) Mo ral Fi bre 100% Handspu n , Han d Wo ve n C otton M u slin Arti san 37' s - 100 gsm www.moralf i br e-fabr i c s. c o m

8F021-D 01 Mo z arte x 70% C o tton 30% L yo c ell ( f ro m L e n zin g) 190.6g/m 2 5.6 oz/y 2 http://www.m o z ar t ex . c o m

84

ART ICL E: M IL L : CO MP O SI T IO N : W EIGH T :

TND P - P L W - 2 4 1 2 0 1 - RRD - 0 1 Th e N e w D e ni m P r o j e c t 1 0 0 % Re c y c l e d D e ni m 1 5 2 g/m 2 w w w . t h e ne wde ni m p r oj e c t. c om

ART ICL E: MIL L : COMP OSI T IO N : WE IGH T :

CCL - T S - D N - B L CO CC C O N Pe ace S i l k n/a

ART ICL E: MIL L : COMP OSI T IO N : WE IGH T :

CCL - T S - D N - L CO CC C O N Pe ace S i l k n/a

w w w .c oc c c on- c r a f ts- l oom . c om /

w w w .c oc c c on- c r a f ts- l oom . c om /

ARTICL E: MIL L : CO M P O SI TIO N : WE I G H T :

3 M FT0 0 8 - F M o zar t e x 100% Lyocell (from Le n zi ng ) 2 6 4 g/ m 2 7 . 8 o z / Y 2 h t t p : / / w ww. m oza r te x. c om

85

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Worldwide, the fashion industry generates US$1.7 trillion, and global production is set to rise by 63% by 2030.

About 1.24 billion pairs of jeans are sold annually, with 15% of the fabric used to make that amount of denim wasted during the cut and sew stage.

This means we waste enough fabric to make around 150 million more pairs of jeans, which is crazy.

It is more than apparent that the textile industry has not innovated its core structure.

It is a monumental industry, in desperate need of innovation.

AR IANN E & J OANNA EN GELBERG THE NEW DENIM PROJECT

86 I m age : T he N ew D e n i m P r o j e c t

C O LL A BORATION IS THE NEW C O MPETITION .R AWA S S EMBLY.

87

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RIGHT Ga t h e r e d f r o m t h e c u t t i n g r o o m f l o o r o f N o bo dy D e ni m ' s T h o r n b u r y f a c t o r y a n d d e s i g n s t u d i o i n Au s t r a l i a , p r e -c o n s u m e r denim waste destined for landfill, is rero u t e d i n t o t h e t a l e n t e d h a n d s o f w e a v e r and d es i g n e r , G e o r g i na W h i g h a m . W h i g h a m wove throughout lockdown and the weeks beyond to create a series of truly unique, one of a kind recycled denim bags, fully ‘closing the loop’.

In d i g o D e n i m w i t h In d i g o W e a v e 64 c m h i g h x 34 c m w i d e M a d e i n Au s t r a l i a

ABO VE T h e Ub u Cha ir Ma d e from F S C® cer tified s o lid oak and wa lnut.

T h e s eat an d back a re m a d e of t e x tile wa ste and biod egrad able binder . The y a r e com p ressed into a so l i d s e a t usin g a technique de v eloped by Pla nq . ww w .planq pro ducts.co m

The Edit

A curated list of deniminspired, reinvented, upcycled and recycled products from the fashion industry's textile waste streams.

LEFT The S w e d i s h t r a s m a t t a – rag rug i s m a d e f r o m t h e s hre d d e d l e g p i e c e s o f N u d i e J e ans d e ni m .

L i l l - M ats m e a s u r e s 140 x 70 c e nti m e tre s a n d i s m a d e i n a l i m i te d run of 275 p i e c e s .

9 9 % C o tto n / 1% E l a s t a n e M ad e i n P o l a n d b y M i nd us try AB

RIGHT Ma de e xc l us i ve l y f ro m Ci ti z en W o l f o f f c u t s c r a p jersey and using a c o m p l e te l y m e c hani c al pr o c e s s – t h e result is a go rge o us yarn i n vari o us m arl c o l o u r s c r e a t e d b y the c o m p o s i te f i b re s rath e r t h a n d y e .

5 2 % Recycl e d O rg ani c C o tto n ( d e p e nd i n g o n c o l o u r ) 2 3 % Recycled A us tral i an M e ri no W o o l ( d e p e n d i n g o n co lo ur ) 4 5 % A us tral i an M e ri no W o o l ( v i r g i n c o r e ) • Mechanica l l y re c yc l e d - no w ate r, no b l e a c h , n o d y e

88

w w w .c i ti ze n w o l f . c o m

A B OVE Levi St ra uss P l a ymobile figure.

F o r t h e c elebra t ion of t he Bu t t e n h e i m villa ge's 900t h a n n i v ersa ry Pla ymobil d e v e l o p ed a Levi St ra uss f igure T h i s v i l l a g e i s most ly known a s t h e b irt hpla ce of Levi S t r a u s s , t he f ounder of Levi’s bra nd

A B O V E: D e n i m L a b h a s t e a med up wit h t he t a l e n t e d @ a r t w o r k s x d e n i m a n d crea t ed a sma ll c o l l e c t i o n o f h a n d s t i t c h e d S a s hiko ma sks. A ll m a d e f r o m p i l e s o f o l d g a r m ent prot ot ypes, B-c h o i c e a n d c u t w a s t e f r o m t h eir Selva ge.la b f a brics collect ion Av a i l a ble t o pre-order w w w.denim.la b.nl @denim.la b

R IG H T : LegendBlu e s ™ i s a u n i q u e , s u s t a i n a b l e , l i ne o f c u s t o m -m a d e u p h o l s t e r e d f urn i t u r e , p i l l o w s a n d a c c e s s o r i e s b a s e d i n t h e U S A. Us i ng re c y c l e d j e a n s o r n e w j e a n s , t h e c o m p any p r o d u c e s o n e -o f -a -k i n d i t e m s that te l l a s t o r y t h a t i s a u t h e n t i c t o i t s owner.

Fo r a no s t a l g i c j o u r n e y , c u s t o m e r s c a n hav e t h e i r j e a n s u p c y c l e d o r h a v e L e g e nd Bl u e s ™ s u p p l y t h e m t o c r e a t e yo u a p e r s o n a l i ze d c h a i r , o t t o m a n or pillow as a remembrance of life’s treasured moments. www.legendbluesllc.com

LEFT Woodio creates and produce sustainable basins, baths, hooks and countertops.

Made in Finland from real wood chips w w w .w o o d i o . f i

SOMETHING OLD, SOM ETHING NEW LEFT M ars au B o tani c al s Tho us and M i l e s F ro m N o w h e r e J ap ane s e I nd i g o , L e m o n g r a s s & C i tro ne l l a S c e nte d So a p w w w .m ars aub o tani c a l s . c o m / p r o d u c t s

AB OVE Org anic co co nut s o ap w rap p e d in Denim by Thr ee B y O ne .

T h e fo under o f the b rand , L aura Dixo n is ba sed in A ntw e rp , B e lgium & is a den i m d e s i gne r b y tr ade. La ur a has c re ate d an organic co co nut so ap b rand and each ba r is wrapp e d i n d e ni m p aper which is mad e o f s c rap s i n In d i a by Cadica Gro up S R L . www.thr eebyo ne.eu

A B O V E: T h e s t e p b y st ep ma king of j e a n s g u i d e b y Jo h anna Lundst rom @la st st it ch

(please additionally review Jean redesigned guidelines to help you make your jeans circular)

ABOVE/ LEFT Re c y c l e d D e n i m h o m e i n s u l a t i o n https://www.soundaway.com & www.bondedlogic.com

89

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

PL ANQTEXTILE PLANQ X SILVERCREEK M aking th e w o r l d a l i t t l e b e t t e r e v e r y d a y is the j o i nt mission o f cl o th in g b r a nd S i l v e r c r e e k a nd d esi gn studi o P LANQ . Wi th b o th p a s s i o na t e a b o ut s us t a i nabi l i ty and denim r ecyclin g, th e y j o i ne d f o r c e s t o c r e a t e T he Ubu ch air .

Silver c r ee k star ts by c o l l e c t i ng o l d j e a ns f ro m the i r cu stomer s i n th e Ne t he r l a nd s , e na b l i ng t he m to be gi ve n a secon d l ife. Th o se a r e t he n p a s s e d t o P L A NQ to shre d an d tr a n sf o r m i n to t he i r P l a nq T e xt i l e v e ne e r s.

D esign stu d i o P L ANQ wa s f o und e d b y t he t wi n bro the rs An ton & D e n n is Te e uw. T o g e t he r t he y d e s i g n and make designe r f u r n itu r e a nd i nt e r i o r s f r o m r e si dual and renewa b le mate r ials . A s y o ung i nno v a t o r s , t h e y be l i e ve in the p o w er o f w h a t d e s i g n c a n d o . P L A N Q i s o ne o f the " Susta i n ab l e Yo u n g 1 0 0 i nno v a t o r s o f H o l l a nd " and bri ngs togethe r su stain abl e i nno v a t i o n a nd e nvi ro nme ntal awar en e ss.

P LANQ o ffer s d e si gne r f ur ni t ur e und e r t he REZIGN l abe l .

Th is co l lecti o n o f f ur ni t ur e i s m a d e f r o m na t ural f i bre s, su ch a s h e mp an d f l a x , j ut e wa s t e b a g s f r o m the c o c o a an d c offee i n d u str y.

I m age s: Pl anq

90 I M A GE : P L A N Q

Im a g e : An t o n & D e n N i s T e e uw | Pla nq

91

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

MATERIALS Pl anq T e xt i l e i s a s e l f - d e v e l o pe d ve ne e r made f ro m te xti l e waste . T hi s mat e r i a l i s c r e a t e d b y us i ng a pro c e ss to shre d te xti l e s i nto f i bre s, whi c h are th e n c a r d e d i nt o a f e l t m a t e ri al . T hi s f i rst stage mate ri al c an be appl i e d as aco u s t i c a l s o l ut i o ns f o r c us t o m pro duc ts o r pre sse d wi th a bi o de gradabl e b in de r m a d e f r o m p o t a t o s t a rc h i nto she e ts f ro m 1000x3000mm.

I t’ s a p p l i e d i n t he i r Re z i g n co l l e c ti o n as a ve ne e r to p f o r the i r tabl e s and cu b i c s s he l v e s , g l ue d wi t h r e ve rsi bl e gl ue and made to re use agai n. Eac h p iec e i s c r e a t e d wi t h c i r c ul a r ity i n mi nd, al l o wi ng the n to be re turne d at the en d - o f - l i f e t o b e p r e s s e d i nt o ne w pro duc ts o r shre dde d and 3D pri nte d i nto n e w p r o d uc t s .

Th e P l a nq t e xt i l e m a t e r i a l s ho ws ho w uni que pi e c e s o f f urni ture c an be made fr o m r e c y c l e d m a t e r i a l s . T he te xti l e f i bre s re mai n vi si bl e i n e ac h pi e c e , cr ea t i ng a m a r b l e d e f f e c t a nd re mi ndi ng i ts c usto me rs ho w i t has be e n made an d wha t . E a c h t a b l e i s t he r e f o re uni que and o ne -o f -a-ki nd.

Su st a i na b l e m a r b l e , m a d e o f te xti l e .

w w w. p l a n q p ro duc t s .c o m

ARMY GREEN M ad e from r ecycled un iforms fro m the D utch a rmy

BLU E D ENIM M ad e f ro m re c yc l e d j e a n s f r o m p o s t- c o ns um e r re so u r c e s o f f as hi on b r a n d s

JUTE CO F F E E BAG Ma de fro m re c yc l e d j ute co ffee ba gs fr o m the c o f f e e & cho col ate i nd us try

92

FLAX made from a renewable flax fibre S U IT S Made from recycled jeans suits f r o m D u t c h ABN AM RO b a n k

S T EW A R D ES S ( S P EC IA L ) M ad e f r o m r e c y c l e d s t e w a r d e s s uni fo r m f r o m t h e r o y a l d u t c h airline company

W H ITE D ENIM M a d e f r o m r e c y cled whit e c o l o u r e d j e a n s crea t ing a m a r bled look

Closing the Loop .

One chair made from recycled denim PlanQ s a v e s 1 1 ,7 0 0 l i t r e s of drinking water

Image: Anton & DenNis Tee uw | Pl anq

Image: Pl anq

93

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RESPONSIBLE SOURCING & RESOURCES

94

D E N IM T OD AY | AN AR OU N D T H E WO R LD SE R I E S IM AG E BY A NNA SHVE T S

C lick any of the SDG icons to learn mor e abo u t eac h go al .

95

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Certifications Raw Materials & Fibres GL OB A L O R G A N IC TE X TIL E S TA N DA RD ( GO TS) , i s the gl o bal l e adi ng te xti l e pro c essin g stan d ard f o r o r g a ni c f i b r e s , i nc l udi ng e c o l o gi c al and so c i al c ri te ri a, suppo rted by i n d e p en d e nt c e r t i f i c a t i o n o f t he who l e te xti l e suppl y c hai n. T hi s me ans that GOT S o rgan ic co tto n i s g r o wn f r e e f r o m p e s t i c i de s and c he mi c al s, wi th f ai r l abo ur prac ti c e s. T he cotton stan d ard a l s o he l p s p r o m o t e o r gani c agri c ul ture aro und the wo rl d h ttp s:/ / www. g l o b a l - s t a nd a r d . o r g / O CS - O R G A N IC B L E N D E D S TA N DA RD c o ve rs the pro c e ssi ng, manuf ac turi ng, pac ka gin g, l ab el ling , t r a d i ng a nd d i s t r i b ut i o n o f a pro duc t that c o ntai ns at l e ast 5 pe rc e nt c e rtified 'o r gan ic ' m a t e r i a l s . I t c a n b e us ed as a busi ne ss-to -busi ne ss to o l to gi ve c o mpani es th e mean s t o e ns ur e t ha t t he y a r e s e l l i ng qual i ty and ge tti ng what the y pay f o r.

T HE B ETTE R C O TTO N IN ITIA TIV E i s a ho l i sti c appro ac h to sustai nabl e c o tto n pro duction , w h i ch c o v e r s t hr e e p i l l a r s o f s u stai nabi l i ty: e nvi ro nme ntal , so c i al and e c o no mi c. Th e sy ste m i s d e s i g ne d t o e ns ur e t he ado pti o n o f go o d prac ti c e s and to e nc o urage the scalin g u p o f co l l e c t i v e a c t i o n t o e s t a b l i sh a sustai nabl e mai nstre am c o mmo di ty. h ttp s:/ / b e t t e r c o t t o n. o r g / FA I R T RA D E i s A s o c i a l m o v e m e nt whi c h ai ms to e nsure that f ai r pri c e s are pa id to p r o d u ce r s i n d e v e l o p i ng c o unt r i es, as we l l as de l i ve ri ng i mpro ve d so c i al and e nvi ro nmen tal stan d ard s . T he m o v e m e nt f o c us e s i n parti c ul ar o n c o mmo di ti e s o r pro duc ts sold by p r o d u ce r s i n d e v e l o p i ng c o unt r i e s to c o mpani e s i n de ve l o pe d c o untri e s, suc h as c offee, co co a, s ug a r a nd c ho c o l a t e . h ttp s:/ / www. f a i r t r a d e . ne t / T HE GL O B A L R E C Y C L E D S TA N D A RD ( GRS) addre sse s i nput mate ri al ve ri f i c ati o n, c ha in of cu sto d y , e nv i r o nm e nt a l p r i nc i p l e s, so c i al re qui re me nts, and l abe l l i ng f o r te xti l e produ cts mad e fr o m r e c y c l e d m a t e r i a l s . I t ai ms to be a f ul l -pro duc t standard f o r re c yc l e d material co n te n t t ha t b a l a nc e s r i g o ur a nd prac ti c al i ty f o r the i ndustry and e nd c o nsume rs. https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Global-Recycled-Standardv 4 .0 .p d f T HE R C S ( R E C Y C L E D C L A IM S TA N DA RD) i s use d as a c hai n o f c usto dy standard to track r e cy cled r a w m a t e r i a l s t hr o ug h the suppl y c hai n. T he RC S ve ri f i e s the pre se nc e an d amo u n t o f r e c y c l e d m a t e r i a l i n a f i nal pro duc t. T hi s happe ns thro ugh i nput and c hain -ofcu sto d y v e r i f i c a t i o n f r o m a t hi r d party.

USD A- O r g a ni c c e r t i f i c a t i o n r e q ui re s that f arme rs and handl e rs do c ume nt the i r pro cesses an d ge t i ns p e c t e d e v e r y y e a r . O rgani c o n-si te i nspe c ti o ns ac c o unt f o r e ve ry c o mpon en t o f th e o p e r a t i o n, i nc l ud i ng , b ut no t l i mi te d to , se e d so urc e s, so i l c o ndi ti o ns, c ro p h ealth , w ee d an d p e s t m a na g e m e nt , wa t e r syste ms, i nputs, c o ntami nati o n and c o mmi ngl i ng risks an d p r e v e nt i o n, a nd r e c o r d - k e e pi ng. T rac i ng o rgani c pro duc ts f ro m start to f i ni sh i s part o f th e U S D A o r g a ni c p r o m i s e . https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2012/03/22/organic-101-what-usda-organic-label96

mean s

Certifications Raw Materials & Fibres MAN-MADE CELLULOSIC FIB RES, PAPER & PACKAGING

T HE FO R E S T S TE W A R D S H IP C O U NCI L ® ( F SC) i s an i nte rnati o nal no n-pro f i­t o rgan isation for w o o d c e r t i f i c a t i o n.

FSC h a s a g l o b a l f o r e s t c e r t i f i c ati o n syste m to pro vi de a guarante e that f o re st produ cts come f r o m r e s p o ns i b l y m a na g e d s o urc e s. T he syste m has two ke y c o mpo ne nts: Fo re st Man agemen t ( FM ) c e r t i f i c a t i o n s ho ws t ha t fo re st manage rs o r o wne rs are managi ng the i r forests in a r e sp o ns i b l e wa y . h ttp s:/ / a u. f s c . o r g / e n- a u/ f o r - b us i ne ss/f sc -c e rti f i c ati o n T HE P R O G R A M F O R TH E E N D O RSEMENT O F F O REST CERTI F I CA TI O N SCH EMES™ ( PE FC ) i s an int e r na t i o na l no n- p r o f i t o rgani sati o n f o r wo o d c e rti f i c a­t i o n.

Th e P r o g r a m m e f o r t he E nd o r se me nt o f Fo re st C e rti f i c ati o n i s an i nte rnati o nal , n on -profit, n o n - go v e r nm e nt a l o r g a ni s a t i o n whi c h pro mo te s sustai nabl e f o re st manage men t th rou gh i n d e p e nd e nt t hi r d p a r t y c e r t i f i cati o n. It i s c o nsi de re d the c e rti f i c ati o n syste m of ch oice for smal l f o r e s t o wne r s . h ttp s:/ / www. p e f c . o r g / T HE C A N O P Y P L A N E T S O C IE TY i s a C anadi an no npro f i t o rgani sati o n that f o c u ses on th e co n serv a t i o n a nd p r o t e c t i o n o f anc i e nt and e ndan­g e re d f o re sts.

Th e Ca no p y S t y l e A ud i t G ui d e l i ne s de sc ri be ho w audi to rs wi l l ve ri f y that pro duc e rs are meetin g th e cr it e r i a a nd whe t he r a nd wh e n the y c an be re c o gni se d as be i ng at l o w ri sk o f sou rcin g from an cien t a nd e nd a ng e r e d f o r e s t s o r c o ntro ve rsi al so urc e s. h ttp s:/ / c a no p y p l a ne t . o r g / s o l ut i o ns/f sc /c re di bl e -c e rti f i c ati o n-j ust-o ne -part-o f -the -s olu tion /

PRO DUCT C ERT I F I CAT I ONS T HE CR A D L E TO C R A D L E C E R TI F I ED™ Pro duc t S tandard gui de s de si gne rs and ma n u factu rers th r o u g h a c o nt i nua l i m p r o v e m e nt pro c e ss that l o o ks at a pro duc t thro ugh f i ve qual i ty categories — mat e r i a l he a l t h, m a t e r i a l r e u ti l i sati o n, re ne wabl e e ne rgy and c arbo n manage men t, w ater ste w ard s hi p , a nd s o c i a l f a i r ne s s .

U si n g t he e nd - us e p r o d uc t ( wa ste ) f o r the so urc e o f a ne w pro duc t: a c i rc ul ar econ omy . All p r o d u c t s c a n b e d e s i g ne d f o r c o nti nuo us re c o ve ry and re -uti l i sati o n. h ttp s:// www. c 2 c c e r t i f i e d . o r g / EU Eco l a b e l - E s t a b l i s he d i n 1 9 92 and re c o gni se d ac ro ss Euro pe and wo rl dwi de , the EU Ecolabel is a l ab e l o f e nv i r o nm e nt a l e xc el l e nc e that i s awarde d to pro duc ts and se rvi c e s meetin g h igh en v i r o nm e nt a l s t a nd a r d s t hr o ugho ut the i r l i f e -c yc l e : f ro m raw mate ri al e xtrac ti o n to produ ction , d istr i b ut i o n a nd d i s p o s a l . h ttp s:// e c . e ur o p a . e u/ e nv i r o nm ent/e c o l abe l / 97

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Certifications Harmful & Restricted Substances A FI R M R S L , T o r e d uc e t he us e a nd i mpac t o f harmf ul substanc e s i n the appare l and footw ear su p p l y c ha i n. A F I RM i s t he A ppare l and Fo o twe ar Inte rnati o nal RS L Manage men t (AFIRM ) Wo r k i n g G r o up , e s t a b l i s he d i n 2 004. AFIRM’ s mi ssi o n i s “ to re duc e the use and i mpac t of h armfu l su b stanc e s i n t he a p p a r e l a nd f oo twe ar suppl y c hai n.” AFIRM’ s purpo se i s to pro vi de a foru m to ad v an ce t he g l o b a l m a na g e m e nt o f re stri c te d substanc e s i n appare l and f o o twe ar, c ommu n icate i n f o r ma t i o n a b o ut c he m i c a l m a nage me nt to the suppl y c hai n, di sc uss c o nc e rns, an d exch an ge i d eas f o r i m p r o v i ng c he m i c a l m a nage me nt. h ttp s:/ / www. a f i r m - g r o up . c o m / wp-c o nte nt/upl o ads/2020/01/2020_ AFIRM_ RS L _ 2020_ 0131.pdf BL UESI G N i s a s y s t e m t ha t p r o v i de s saf e r and mo re sustai nabl e e nvi ro nme nts f or people to w o r k i n a nd e v e r y o ne t o l i v e i n. P o we re d by a ho l i sti c appro ac h, B L UES IGN trac e s e ach textile's p ath alo ng t he m a nuf a c t ur i ng p ro c e ss, maki ng i mpro ve me nts at e ve ry stage f ro m th e factory f lo o r to f i ni s he d p r o d uc t . h ttp s:/ / www. b l ue s i g n. c o m / e n ST A ND A R D 100 b y O E K O - TE X ® is o ne o f the wo rl d' s be st-kno wn l abe l s f o r te xti l e s tested for h ar mf ul s ub s t a nc e s . I t s t a nd s f o r c usto me r c o nf i de nc e and hi gh pro duc t saf e ty.

Th e O e k o - T e x S t a nd a r d 1 0 0 , i nt ro duc e d i n 1992, i s a gl o bal uni f o rm te sti ng and certification sy ste m f o r t e xt i l e r a w m a t e r i a l s, i nte rme di ate pro duc ts and e nd-pro duc ts at all stages of p r o d u ct i o n. T e x t i l e p r o d uc t s a re c e rti f i e d ac c o rdi ng to Oe ko -T e x S tandard 100 on ly if all co mp o ne nt s m e e t t he r e q ui r e d c ri te ri a wi tho ut e xc e pti o n.

D isco v e r o t he r O e k o - T e x c e r t i f i c a ti o ns here D ET OX TO ZE R O b y O E K O - TE X® i s a c o mpre he nsi ve ve ri f i c ati o n and re po rti ng s y stem th at r e co gn i s e s t he r e q ui r e m e nt s s t i pul ate d by the Gre e npe ac e D e to x c ampai gn. D o cu men tation o f th e c o m p a ny ' s o p e r a t i o ns , s u c h as trai ni ng, e nvi ro nme ntal re po rti ng, i nte rnal an d extern al co mmuni c a t i o n https://www.oeko-tex.com/importedmedia/downloadfiles/DETOX_TO_ZERO_by_OEKO-TEX_R__-_ Gu id el ine . p d f M R SL st a nd s f o r M a nuf a c t uri ng Restric ted Substa nc e L ist and pro vi de s brands, retailers, su p p l ie r s a nd m a nuf a c t ur e r s wi th ac c e ptabl e l i mi ts o f re stri c te d substanc e s in ch emical f o r mu l a t i o ns us e d i n t he r a w m a te ri al and pro duc t manuf ac turi ng pro c e sse s.

Z D HC - Ze r o D i s c ha r g e f o r ha r m f ul c he mi c al s h ttp s:/ / www. r o a d m a p t o z e r o . c o m /po st/z dhc -re l e ase s-mrsl -c o nf o rmanc e -gui danc e R EA CH i s a r e g ul a t i o n o f t he E ur o pe an Uni o n, ado pte d to i mpro ve the pro te c ti o n o f hu man h ealth an d th e e nv i r o nm e nt f r o m t he ri sks po se d by c he mi c al s whi l e e nhanc i ng the c o mpetitiven ess o f th e E U c he m i c a l s i nd us t r y . R EAC H stands f o r Re gi strati o n, Eval uati o n, Autho risation an d R estr ict i o n o f C he m i c a l s .

98

h ttp s:/ / www. i nt e r t e k . c o m / r e a c h/

Certifications & Initiatives Social Compliance T HE E TH IC A L TR A D IN G IN ITIATI VE ( ETI ) i s a l e adi ng al l i anc e o f c o mpani e s, trade u n ion s an d N G O s t ha t p r o m o t e s r e s pe c t f o r wo rke rs' ri ghts wo rl dwi de . Our vi si o n i s a w orld w h e r e a l l wo r k e r s a r e f r e e f r o m e xpl o i tati o n and di sc ri mi nati o n, and e nj o y c o ndition s of f r ee d o m , s e c ur i t y a nd e q ui t y . h ttp s: / / www. e t hi c a l t r a d e . o r g / a bo ut-e ti FA I R TR A D E i s A s o c i a l m o v e m e nt that ai ms to e nsure that f ai r pri c e s are pai d to produ cers i n d e v e l o p i ng c o unt r i e s a nd de l i ve r i mpro ve d so c i al and e nvi ro nme ntal stan dards.

Th e m o v e m e nt f o c us e s p a r t i c ul arl y o n c o mmo di ti e s o r pro duc ts so l d by pro ducers in d e v e lo p i ng c o unt r i e s t o c o m p a ni e s i n de ve l o pe d c o untri e s, suc h as c o f f e e , c o c o a, su gar an d c ho c o l a t e . h ttp s: / / www. f a i r t r a d e . ne t / SUST A IN A B IL ITY S A 8000 - C e r t i f i c ati o n - S o c i al Ac c o untabi l i ty. S A 8000 i s an i nte rnation al ce r tifi c a t i o n s t a nd a r d t ha t e n c o urage s o rgani z ati o ns to de ve l o p, mai ntai n and apply so ci al l y a c c e p t a b l e wo r k p l a c e prac ti c e s. https://www.sgs.com.au/en-gb/sustainability/social-sustainability/audit-certificationan d - v e r i f i c a t i o n/ s a - 8 0 0 0 - c e r t i f ic ati o n-so c i al -ac c o untabi l i ty WOR L D W ID E R E S P O N S IB L E A CCREDI TED P RO DU CTI O N ( W RA P ) WR AP i s t he wo r l d ' s m o s t e xt e nsi ve i nde pe nde nt c e rti f i c ati o n pro gram f o c use d on th e ap p are l , f o o t we a r , a nd s e wn p ro duc ts. h ttp s: / / wr a p c o m p l i a nc e . o r g / c e rti f i c ati o n/ ET HI C A L C L O TH IN G A U S TR A L I A Eth ica l C l o t hi ng A us t r a l i a ( E C A ®) i s an ac c re di tati o n bo dy wo rki ng c o l l abo rati vely w ith l o cal t e x t i l e , c l o t hi ng a nd f o o twe ar ( T C F) busi ne sse s to e nsure the i r Austral i an su pply ch ains a r e l e g a l l y c o m p l i a nt . h ttp s: / / e t hi c a l c l o t hi ng a us t r a l i a .o rg.au/ FA I R W E A R F O U N D A TIO N L A B O U R STA NDA RDS | A C o de o f L abo r Prac ti c e s made u p of e igh t l a b o ur s t a nd a r d s d e r i v e d f ro m IL O C o nve nti o ns and the UN' s D e c l arati o n o n Hu man R igh ts F W F C o d e o f L a b o r P r a c ti c e s i s base d o n i nte rnati o nal l y re c o gni z e d standards set th r o u g h t r i p a r t i t e ne g o t i a t i o n. h ttp s: / / a p i . f a i r we a r . o r g / wp - c o n te nt/upl o ads/2016/06/f wf c o de o f l abo urprac ti c e s.pdf

D i s c o v e r m o re c e rti f i c ati o ns vi a o ur so urc i ng pl atf o rm

www. raw a sse mb ly . c om/ c e r t if ic a t io ns 99

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Natural Fibres In denim today L IN E N (O RGA NI C) - NA TU RA L

C O T T ON - NATURA L C o t t on is a staple fibre , w hi c h m e ans i t is compo sed o f dif f e re nt, varyi ng l e ngt h s o f fibr es. Co tton i s m ad e f ro m the nat ur al fibr es o f c o tto n p l ants , w hic h are fro m the genus Go s s yp i um .

T h e t erm co tto n refers to the p art o f the cot t on plant that gro w s i n the b o l l - t he p ro tectiv e ca sing f o r the c o tto n f i bre s. Co tto n is bo th a f i b re and f o o d c r op , an d the plant is a l e af y, g re e n s hrub re lated to the hib i s c us s p e c i e s o f p l ant .

C o t t on is primar ily c o m p o s e d o f c ellu lose , an inso l ub l e o rgani c c om p ou n d cr ucial to pl ant s truc ture , a n d is a so ft a nd fluff y m ate ri al . The c ot t on p l ant needs lo ts o f s un, a l o ng p eriod w i tho ut fro st, an d a f ai r am o unt o f rain.

C o t t on is spun into ya rn that i s the n k nit t ed or wo ven to crea te s o f t, d urab l e k nit and wo v en fabrics.

T hi s b i o de gradabl e and natural f abri c i s d ur a b l e, mo th re si stant, and c an l ast f o r d e c a d es i f we l l c are d f o r. Its bre athabi l i ty a nd a bso rbabi l i ty make i t a pe rf e c t f o r s o ut he rn he mi sphe re c l i mate s. Made f ro m t he f l a x pl ant' s f i bre s, i t i s spun i nto a yarn t ha t t e nds to have sl i ght i rre gul ari ti e s and t hi c k ne ss c hange s t ha t c re ate a uni q ue e f f e c t.

T hi s f abri c is r e g ul a rl y use d to m a k e l i ghtwe i ght g a r m e n ts for ho t t e r c l i mate s b e c a us e it b r e a t hes we l l a nd abso rbs m o i s t ure wi tho ut ho l d i ng bac te ri a.

It a l so ne e ds s i g ni f i c antl y l e ss wa t e r to gro w t ha n c onve nti o nal c o t t o n.

Organi c l i ne n is whe n no c he mi c al s o r p e s t i c i de s have b e e n use d duri ng t he pro duc ti o n, from the e ve ri nc r e a si ng pl ants to pro duc i ng the l i ne n y a r n. Li ne n i s starti ng to po p up i n ne w f a b r i c c o mbi nati o ns f o r the de ni m i ndustry.

H E M P ( R E C Y C L E D ) - NA TU RA L

100

M a d e f r o m c a nna bi s S ati va f i bre s, he mp f i bre s are hy p o a l l e r g e ni c , b r eathabl e and no n-i rri tati ng to the s k i n. I t ' s wi d e l y s e e n as o ne o f the mo st e nvi ro nme ntal l y f r i e nd l y f a b r i c s o n t he marke t as the pl ant i tse l f re qui re s v e r y l i t t l e wa t e r t o g ro w and i s mo re natural l y re si stant t o p e s t s t ha n c o t t o n. D urabl e and ro bust, te n ti me s s t r o ng e r t ha n c o nv enti o nal c o tto n, i t i s si mi l ar to l i ne n i n t e xt ur e b ut l i g ht we i ght. Pure he mp f abri c s be c o me s o f t e r wi t h we a r a nd ti me , are bi o de gradabl e and c an b e e a s i l y r e c y c l e d . He mp c an be c o urse and sl i ghtl y i tc hy whe n wo r n; ho we v e r, ne w pro duc ti o n me tho ds pro duc e a s o f t e r y e t s t r o ng v e rsi o n to day. Re c yc l e d He mp i s usual l y b l e nd e d wi t h p ur e He mp o r o the r f i bre s l i ke o rgani c c o t t o n, f o r a d d i t i o nal durabi l i ty and pro pe rti e s. Whe n H e m p i s p r o c e s s e d f o r de ni m, i t te nds to go thro ugh a ' c o t t o ni z a t i o n' p r o c e ss, whi c h sho rte ns the f i bre s and m a k e s i t ' s s o f t e r i n hand-f e e l and si mi l ar to c o tto n.

R ESPO NSIBLE MATER I A L IN DEX

O R G AN IC C O T T O N - NA T U R A L O rg ani c c o t t o n i s c o t t o n t h a t i s p rod u c e d a n d c e r t i f i e d t o o rgani c a g r i c u l t u r a l s t a n d a r d s . It s p ro d uc t i o n s u s t a i n s t h e h e a l t h o f s o i l s , ec o s y s t e m s a n d p e o p l e b y us i ng n a t u r a l p r o c e s s e s r a t h e r than a r t i f i c i a l i n p u t s . Im p o r t a n t l y o rgani c c o t t o n f a r m i n g d o e s n o t al l o w t h e u s e o f t o x i c c h e m i c a l s o r GMOs ( g e n e t i c a l l y m o d i f i e d o rgani s m s ) . In s t e a d , i t c o m b i n e s trad i ti o n , innovation and s c i e nc e t o b e n e f i t t h e s h a r e d e nvi ro n m e n t a n d p r o m o t e a g o o d q ual i ty o f l i f e f o r a l l i n v o l v e d . ab o uto r g a n i c c o t t o n . o r g

K APOK - N A T UR A L K apok is a na tur al cellu l o s e f i b re f o und i n the drie d fruit o f the k ap o k tre e . Kap o k i s said to be o ne o f ( i f no t) the m o s t s ust ain able fibr e in t he m ark e t to d ay, l e avin g no huma n fo o tpri nt b e hi nd .

K apok trees ar e sel f - s uf f i c i e nt and p rodu c e a so ft, silky fibre .

T h e kapo k tree has al s o d e ve l o p e d a n at u ral way to pro tect i ts e l f f ro m ani m al a t t acks: r igid spines o n i ts trunk s o that n o hu m an inter ventio n o r p e s ti c i d e s are r eq uire d fo r the tree a nd f rui ts to thri ve .

H und red s o f po ds ca n b e f o und i n e ac h f r uit , containing the tr ee' s s e e d s p ro te c te d b y a fluffy, silky a nd sof t f i b re . The f i b re i t s elf canno t be spun o n i ts o w n; i t m us t b e b le n d ed with o ther n atural f i b re s s uc h a s cot t on, linen o r hem p .

F loc u s a co mpa ny bas e d i n s hang hai s pe c ialises in kapo k fibre b l e nd s w i th the h igh est per centage o f k ap o k us e d i n the f i nest counts. It ca n pr o d uc e thi s w i th l o w minim um o r der qua ntiti e s us i ng the m o s t a d vanc ed techno lo gy in the m ark e t.

Th e c ompany ma nufac ture s s us tai nab l e y a rn s, fabr ics and fil l i ngs m ad e f ro m f i nest kapo k fibres that c an no w b e f o und i n Den im.

C urre n t l y , organic cotton c o m p ri s e s l e s s t h a n o n e p e r c e n t o f to ta l g l o b a l c o t t o n p r o d u c t i o n .

W i th m o r e b r a n d s m o v i n g t o u s e o rgani c c o t t o n i n t h e i r s u p p l y c hai ns , w e w i l l s e e a s u b s t a n t i a l i nc re as e i n o r g a n i c c o t t o n f a r m i n g o ve r th e n e x t f e w y e a r s .

BA NA NA F I BRE- NA TU RAL Ba n a n a f i b r e , a l s o k n o w n a s Musa T ext ilis f i b r e i s o n e o f t h e w o rld’s st rongest n a t u r a l b i o d e g r a d a b l e f ibres a nd ha s b e e n g r o w n f o r c e n t u r i e s f or use a s a t e x t i l e f i b r e . T h e n a t u r a l f ibre is ma de f r o m t h e s t e m o f t h e b a n a na t ree a nd is i n c r e d i b l y d u r a b l e . T h e f i bre consist s of t h i c k -w a l l e d c e l l t i s s u e , b onded t oget her b y n a t u r a l g u m s a n d i s m ainly composed o f c e l l u l o s e , h e m i c e l l u l o s es a nd lignin.

Ba n a n a f i b r e c a n m a k e s evera l different t e x t i l e s w i t h d i f f e r e n t weight s a nd t h i c k n e s s e s , b a s e d o n w ha t pa rt of t he b a n a n a s t e m t h e f i b r e i s ext ra ct ed f rom.

T h e t h i c k e r , s t u r d i e r f i b r e s a re t a ken from t h e b a n a n a t r e e s o u t e r s h ea t hs, wherea s t h e i n n e r s h e a t h s r e s u l t i n soft er f ibres.

Ba n a n a f i b r e i s n o t n e w t o t ext iles; it wa s f i r s t u s e d i n t h e 13t h c e n t ury in ja pa n.

R e c e n t l y b a n a n a f i b r e h a s been ma king a c o m e b a c k i n n u m e r o u s indust ries a nd i s u s e d w o r l d w i d e f o r m u l t iple product s, r a n g i n g f r o m t e a b a g s t o c a r int eriors a nd t y r e s t o s a r i s a n d Ja p a n e s e yen not es.

M o r e r e c e n t l y w e h a v e s e en ba na na f ibre a p p e a r i n s e l v e d g e d e n i m . R a leigh Denim p r o d u c e d a l i m i t e d r u n of 180 pa irs of b a n a n a f i b r e s e l v e d g e j e a ns t ha t included a banana yellow selvedge!

101

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

102 IMA GE: V I TO R I A S A NTO S

Natural Fibre & Fabric Source Hemps, Linens & Cellulose in Denim

C H ET NA COT T O N , G uj a ra t , Ind i a .

Che tn a O r gan i c i s a uni q ue 3 6 0 ° d e v e l opme nt i nte rve nti o n f o r smal l ho l de r ( & tri bal ) f arme r fa mi lies p r i ma r i l y d e p e nd e nt o n r a i nf e d agri c ul ture . C he tna was e stabl i she d wi th the pri mary ai m o f e n h an c i ng c o t t o n f a r m e r s l i v e l i ho o d o pti o ns thro ugh maki ng the i r f armi ng syste ms mo r e p r o fitab l e a nd s us t a i na b l e . C he t na f o c us state s i nc l ude Andhra Prade sh, Maharashtra an d O d i sh a, and s p e c i f i c t e c hni c a l s e r v ic e s e xte nde d to o the r state s.

The Ch e tn a O r g a ni c & F a i r T r a d e C o t t o n Inte rve nti o n Pro gram starte d i n 2004 as a c o mpo s ite p i lo t o n O r gan i c / N o n- P e s t i c i d e M a na g e me nt ( NPM) & Fai r-trade suppl y c hai n de ve l o pme n t, in r e sp o n se to t he a g r a r i a n c r i s i s i n I ndi a. C he tna Organi c i s a be l i e f o f mo re than 8000 p r e d o min an tly t r i b a l f a r m e r s i n s us t a i nabl e agri c ul ture and e thi c al trade prac ti c e s.

AFGI H as i n tr o d u ce d t he P ur e C o l l e c t i o n, a l i ne o f f abri c s made f ro m mo re re l i abl e so urc e s inclu d i n g p o st- c o ns um e r r e c y c l e d d e ni m, po st-i ndustri al re c yc l e d c o tto n, o rgani c c o tto n, Be tter Co tto n , he m p , T e nc e l Re f i b r a a nd mo re .

BA ST CONE Bastco n e is a U S A he m p c o m p a ny p r o d uc i ng te xti l e grade he mp.

HO USE O F GOL D Lau n ch ed a se l e c t i o n o f o v e r 5 0 d i f f e r e nt arti c l e s made wi th he mp bl e nde d wi th o the r natu ral fib r es su ch as o r g a ni c c o t t o n, T e nc e l ™ f o r 21/22.

IS K UR ISK UR , h as e n l a r g e d i t s E a r t hs q ua d s e l e c ti o n o f f abri c s made wi th natural f i bre s suc h as l i n en , so y- p r o te in fib r e a nd he m p .

N A V EEN A O f fer s a v ast s e l e c t i o n o f na t ur a l f i b r e s , i nc l udi ng he mp.

O R T A 'S H e r e4 go o d co l l e c t i o n i nc l ud e s f a b r i c i nn o vati o ns that have l e ss i mpac t o n the e nvi ro nme nt an d f o cu se s o n c l i m a t e - f r i e nd l y ha b i t s . T he i r Ge n H f abri c s o f f e r de ni m i nno vati o ns wi th en gi n e er e d h e m p , i nc l ud i ng m i xe d he m p wi th c o tto n and re c yc l e d c o tto n f o r vari o us we i ght fa b r ics in cl u d i ng und y e d e c r u.

The co llecti o n a l s o f e a t ur e s G o o d E a r t h C o tto n that i nc l ude s Fi bre T rac e , whi c h c re ate s the ind u str y 's f ir st c a r b o n- p o s i t i v e d e ni m , Ze ro -max, f abri c s made wi th T e nc e l ™ L yo c e l l , he mp, lin e n an d zer o c o t t o n.

O r ta also h as L C A f o r a l l o f t he f a b r i c s that the y pro duc e . T he y have be e n do i ng thi s f o r th ree ye ar s, al lo w in g t he m t o us e t he d a t a wi t hi n the i r App to he l p the i r c l i e nts se l e c t the be st mater i als b ase d o n wha t ' s hi s t o r i c a l l y be e n made .

Disco v e r H e r e4g o o d H E R E SH A R A BA T I 'S New e co ce n tr i c c o l l e c t i o n o f f e r s f a b r i c s made wi th bl e nds o f he mp, l i ne n, l yo c e l l and mo del.

SO O R T Y H as i n tr o d u ce d a 5 0 % T e nc e l ™ 5 0 % E c o ve ro al te rnati ve to tradi ti o nal c o tto n de ri ve d de ni m.

Disco v e r So o r t y ' s 2 0 2 1 l o o k b o o k H E RE AR V I N D H as i n tr o d u ce d Ka p o k f i b r e i nt o t he i r c ol l e c ti o n thi s se aso n, whi c h i s c l asse d as the mo st su stain ab l e n a t ur a l f i b r e we g r o w t o d a y .

FL OCUS™ Pr o d u ces yar n b l e nd s a nd f i l l i ng m a d e w i th kapo k o ut o f shanghai .

9FI B ER Is a U S- b ased c o m p a ny i nno v a t i ng r e s p onsi bl e and sustai nabl e so l uti o ns to c annabi s and h emp b i o mass w aste r e c y c l i ng . T he i r 9 F i b e r ™ so l uti o ns c o nve rt unwante d waste i nto usabl e bast fib r es an d h u rd t o b e us e d i n v a r i o us p ro duc ts, i nc l udi ng f i bre s f o r the te xti l e s and f ashi o n ind u str y .

** Th i s is ju st a s m a l l g l i m p s e o f ne w m ate ri al s avai l abl e o n the marke t to day

103

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Fibre Growers & Innovators GOO D EA R T H CO TTO N - F i b re Tra c e Ca r b o n Po si tiv e , S us t a i na b l e , T r a c e a b l e . Ethi c al . Go o d Earth C o tto n i s gro wn by e nvi ro nm en tally p assi o n ate f ar me r s us i ng t he wo r l d ' s m o s t advanc e d and e c o l o gi c al l y i nno vati ve pro duc ti o n te c hn iqu es.

Their h i gh - q u alit y c o t t o n f i b r e s a r e i nd epe nde ntl y c e rti f i e d as C arbo n Po si ti ve , e nvi ro nm en tally su stain ab l e an d f ul l y t r a c e a b l e i n r e a l - t i m e thro ugho ut the e nti re f ashi o n c hai n – f ro m " se e d to sh elf".

Good Ear th Co tto n c a n a l s o c o nt a i n f i b r e t rac e ' s trac e abl e pi gme nt. www .go o d e ar th co t t o n. c o m C S IRO | A u s tr a li a - G ro wi ng c o l o ur - B l a c k CSIR O r esear ch ers ha v e g e ne t i c a l l y m o d i f i e d c o tto n to make i t natural l y c o l o ure d i n the i r l abs.

While co tto n is r e ne wa b l e , r e c y c l a b l e a nd bi o de gradabl e , i t sti l l ne e ds to be dye d, and the use of someti me s h ar mf ul c he m i c a l d y e s c a n a f f ec t bi o de gradabi l i ty and add unne c e ssary i nputs.

Par ticu l ar ly sign i f i c a nt i s t he C S I RO t e a m ' s wo rk to bre e d natural l y bl ac k c o tto n to re pl ac e black d yes , w h i ch ar e r e g a r d e d a s t he m o s t p o l l u ti ng te xti l e c o l o urs. Je ans o f the f uture c o ul d be g row n b la ck .

GALY - T h e fir s t o f f i c i a l L a b - g ro wn C o t t on Galy G r o w s G r ee ne r C o t t o n I n A L a b , 1 0 T i me s Faste r T han T he Farm Vari e ty f ro m the i r l abo ratory in Bosto n , M assach us e t t s . G a l y g r o ws i t s "i ncre di bl e c o tto n" i n a l ab, f ro m c e l l s i nste ad o f pl ants. Galy 's la b -gr o w n v ar i ety " c a n b e g r o wn a ny whe r e , wi tho ut be i ng de pe nde nt o n so i l and we athe r c o n dition s, an d w ith o u t ex h a us t i ng a p l a ne t . h ttp s:/ / galy .co / INFI N I T ED FI BR E In fin ited Fi b er Co m p a ny p r o d uc e s a r e g e ne rate d f i bre al te rnati ve to vi rgi n c o tto n c re ate d o ut of 100% texti le w aste. Febr ua r y 4 t h 2 0 2 1 s a w W e e kday, the f i rst f ashi o n brand i n the wo rl d to se l l j e an s made with I n f in n a™ . I n f i ni t e d F i b e r i s s t i l l i n t he pro c e ss o f sc al i ng the i r o pe rati o ns i n Euro pe . h ttp s:/ / in f in i ted f i b e r . c o m / SPIN N OV A Is a Fi n n ish R & D c o m p a ny d e v e l o p i ng a n i nno vati ve me c hani c al appro ac h to pro duc e a c e l l ul o sic fibre.

In th e sp r i n g o f 2 0 1 9 , S p i nno v a s t a r t e d o pe rati o ns o n the i r i ndustri al -sc al e pi l o t l i ne i n Fi nl a n d an d h ave sin ce th en l a unc he d t he i r f i r s t i nd us try c o l l abo rati o ns wi th B e rge ns and Mari me kko . h ttp s:/ / sp i n n o v a. c o m / C IR CUL A R SY ST EM S , A G R A L O O P, Bior e fin e r y . h av e d e v e l o p e d t he i r N e w na t ural f i bre B IOFIB RE™ , transf o rmi ng f o o d c ro p waste in to scala b l e, h igh - v al ue na t ur a l f i b r e f o r f a s hi on. T he Agral o o p pro c e sse s a range o f i nputs, i nc l u din g oilsee d h emp , o i l s e e d f l a x, whe a t , r i c e , c o rn, pi ne appl e l e ave s, and banana trunks, and mo re —all to cr eate n atu r al B i o F i b r e a p p l i e d t o y a r n a nd te xti l e s f o r the f ashi o n i ndustry. h ttp s:/ / cir cu l ar sy s t e m s . c o m / a g r a l o o p

104

R ESPO NSIBLE MATER I AL I N DEX

Im a g e : C S IR O

105

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RECYCLED MATERIALS T he E l l e n Ma c A r t hur F o u ndati o n e sti mate s that l e ss than 1 pe rc e nt o f m a t e r i a l us e d t o p r oduc e c l o thi ng i s re c yc l e d bac k i nto ne w c l o t hi ng ( 1 ) . T hi s r e p r e s e nts a l o ss o f mo re than US D 100 bi l l i o n wo r t h o f m a t e r i a l s e a c h ye ar, whi c h e quate s to o ne garbage truc k f ul l o f t e xt i l e s b e i ng s e nt to l andf i l l o r burne d e ve ry si ngl e se c o nd o f e v e r y d a y o f t he y e a r ( 1) .

T he m o s t s us t a i na b l e f a s hi o n we have to day i s what al re ady e xi sts, a nd t hi s i s whe r e we c a n e nsure mo re te xti l e s are re c yc l e d i n the f ut ur e . I ns t e a d o f p r o d uci ng mo re e ne rgy-i nte nsi ve vi rgi n mate ri al s o r c o m p l e x b l e nd s d e s t i ne d f o r l andf i l l , i ts e sse nti al to wo rk wi th t e xt i l e m i l l s c l o s i ng t he l o o p o r usi ng mo no -mate ri al s.

T he p r o b l e m s we f a c e : C ur r e nt l y , r e c y c l e d p o lye ste r use d by f ashi o n brands c o me s p r e d o m i na nt l y f r o m p l asti c bo ttl e s rathe r than o l d c l o thi ng.

U nf o r t una t e l y , b y d o i ng s o , we are taki ng pro duc ts f ro m an al re ady c i r c ul a r s y s t e m ( t he d r i nks i ndustry) and pl ac i ng the m i n the f ashi o n s y s t e m , l o c k e d i ns i d e c ompl e x bl e nds that are no t c i rc ul ar. T he m a t e r i a l b l e nd m a y c o nt ai n re c yc l e d po l ye ste r but has que sti o nabl e c i r c ul a r i t y o r s us t a i na b i li ty me ri ts. Esse nti al l y i t' s a ' band-ai d' as t he s e p r o d uc t s a r e s t i l l de sti ne d f o r the l andf i l l and c re ate mo re o f a n i s s ue t ha n s o l v i ng o ne .

N e a r l y a l l c l o t hi ng i s m a nuf ac ture d f ro m c o mpl e x bl e nds o f f i bre s, f a b r i c s a nd o t he r c o m p one nts. T he se c o mpo ne nts te nd to be made o f p r o b l e m a t i c ' b l e nd s ' o f natural yarns, human-made f i l ame nts, p l a s t i c s a nd m e t a l s .

U nf o r t una t e l y , we c a nnot se parate the se c o mpl e x f i bre s at sc al e t o d a y , m e a ni ng i t ' s e s s enti al to c o nsi de r mate ri al s that are f i t f o r p ur p o s e . W he n d e s i g ni n g, we sho ul d be c o nsi de ri ng the e xte nt to whi c h m a t e r i a l s ha v e r e cyc l e d c o nte nt and c an be re c yc l e d. Whe re p o s s i b l e , we s ho ul d b e co nsi de ri ng mo no -mate ri al s ( 100% ) o r al l na t ur a l o r c e l l ul o s e f i b r es as the te c hno l o gy e xi sts to re c yc l e the se at scale.

W ha t ' s ha p p e ni ng i n f i b re de ve l o pme nt i n de ni m?

T he r e c y c l i ng o f c o t t o n i s o ne appro ac h to wards a mo re c i rc ul ar te xti l e i nd us t r y , r e c y c l e d e i t her me c hani c al l y o r c he mi c al l y. C o mpani e s s uc h a s T he N e w D e ni m Pro j e c t re c yc l e the i r de ni m te xti l e waste m e c ha ni c a l l y , r e s ul t i ng i n the f i nal c o mpo si ti o n l abe l l e d as re c yc l e d c o t t o n.

I n c o nt r a s t , r e c y c l e d c o t t on pro c e sse d i n c he mi c al re c yc l i ng f ac i l i ti e s s uc h a s Re f i b r a ™ r e s ul t s i n a ' man-made ' c e l l ul o si c c o nte nt, no t " c o t t o n", b ut c a n b e r e c y c l e d i nf i ni te l y wi th c o tto n o r o the r c e l l ul o se fibres.

We h a v e l i st e d so me o f ou r fa vou rit e m ills prod u c in g rec yc led co n t e n t t o d a y i n t h i s sec t ion ; we en c ou rage you t o explore t h es e & st a r t u si n g a n d b u yi n g fa s h ion m ad e wit h rec yc led c on t en t .

[ 1] El l e n Mac A r t hu r F o u n d a ti o n

106

R ESPO NSIBLE MATER I A L IN DEX

Yarn & Fabric from Waste RECO T ® | Geb rüd e r O t t o G m b H & C o . KG P r o d u ce y ar n s us i ng a b l e nd o f r e c y c l e d c o tto n and GOT S -c e rti f i e d o rgani c c o tto n. http s:/ / w w w .o t t o - g a r ne . c o m / ho m e - e n/ RECO V ER T EX Re co v er ® i s a s us t a i na b l e t e x t i l e s y s t e m whi c h turns te xti l e waste i nto ne w, pre mi um upc ycled yar n s. Pi o n ee r e d b y t he F e r r e f a m i l y , R e c o ve r® c o l l e c ts te xti l e waste and use d c l o thi ng from a r o u n d th e wo r l d , s o r t i ng i t b y c o l o ur. T he se re c o ve re d f i bre s are bl e nde d wi th o the r low imp act f ib r es t o m a k e ne w t e x t i l e s t ha t c an be re c yc l e d re pe ate dl y. http s:/ / w w w .r e c o v e r t e x. c o m / B EL D A L L O R EN S Sp an i sh yar n m a nuf a c t ur e r , B e l d a L l o r e ns i s pro duc i ng re c yc l e d c o tto n and vi sc o se yarns called E co L ife® http s:/ / w w w .e c o l i f e b y b e l d a . c o m / ho m e / AB LINAS Hav e p r o d u ce d a c o l l e c t i o n o f L i ne n f a bri c s made f ro m re c yc l e d j e ans. http s:/ / l in as.l t / THE NEW D EN IM P R O JE C T T h e N ew D e n i m P r o j e c t : i s a s us t a i na b l e te xti l e l abo rato ry, de si gn studi o , and manuf ac tu rin g wo r k sh o p w i thi n I r i s T e x t i l e s , a t hi r d - g e ne rati o n te xti l e mi l l , that has be e n o pe rati ng si nc e 1956 in Gu atemala.

T h e y p r o d u ce up c y c l e d c o t t o n f a b r i c s made f ro m the te xti l e waste f ro m the de ni m i ndustry . http s:/ / w w w .th e ne wd e ni m p r o j e c t . c o m / TA K I HY O , Lo cated in Jap a n, l a unc he d T a k i hy o ’ s C i rc ul ar S yste m i n 2019, ai mi ng to e l i mi nate the c o nc ept of waste. Th ey wo r k i n p a r t ne r s hi p wi t h T he Ne w D e ni m Pro j e c t ( T ND P) who me c hani c al l y re cy cle pr e an d p o st- c o ns um e r c o t t o n m a t e r i a l s i nto upc yc l e d de ni m and c o tto n i n Guate mal a and th e N o Waste p r o j e c t t ha t m e c ha ni c a l l y r e c yc l e s pre /po st-c o nsume r natural f i bre -base d mate ri als in T h ai lan d . Th ey a i m t o m i ni m i z e c a r b o n f o o tpri nt i mpac t by o f f e ri ng the se c l o se d-l o o p sys tems in tw o d iffer e nt r e g i o ns . http s:/ / w w w .ta k i hy o . c o . j p / e n/ VEL EN ER T EX T IL G M B H W o n th e D i sco v e r N a t ur a l F i b r e s I ni t i a t i ve ( D NFI) Inno vati o n i n Natural Fi bre s Award i n 2018 for the ir WECYCL E D ® s y s t e m , t ha t a d d r e s s e s the i ssue that 30 pe rc e nt o f yar n u sed in we a v i ng m i l l s , k ni t t i ng m i l l s and garme nt maki ng re mai ns unuse d.

T h e p r e - co n su m e r r e c y c l e d f i b r e s a r e b l e nde d wi th vi rgi n c o tto n i nto ne w yarn.

A R T I ST I C M I L L IN E R S Hav e in tr o d u c e d a 1 0 0 % r e c y c l e d f a b r i c that c o ntai ns no vi rgi n c o tto n. It c o mbi ne s T e nc e l ™ w ith r e cy cled co tto n t o c r e a t e a s o f t e r ha nd f e e l .

A R T I ST I C FA BR IC & G A R M E N T IN D U S TRI ES ( A F GI) has i n tr o d u ce d i t s P ur e C o l l e c t i o n, a l i ne o f f abri c s made f ro m mo re trustwo rthy so u rces in clu d i n g p o st - c o ns um e r r e c y c l e d d e ni m , po st-i ndustri al re c yc l e d c o tto n, o rgani c c o tto n, h emp, T en cel R e fib r a a nd m o r e . A r t i s t i c F a b r i c Mi l l s ( AFM) has al so i ntro duc e d the i r Earthmati c 4 piece den im r an ge , t he f i r s t - e v e r C r a d l e t o C radl e Go l d c e rti f i e d de ni m f abri c made wi th re c yc l e d mill waste.

107

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Yarn & Fabric from Waste

B OSSA D EN IM - F A B R IC M A N U F A C TU RER & GA RMENT MA NU F A CTU RER D en im is R e b o rn i n B o s s a - R e b i rt h Sa v emeso B o ssa r eu se s t he i r t e x t i l e p r o d uc t i o n waste by turni ng i t bac k i nto ne w f i bre s and f abri cs.

I n ad d itio n t o t ha t , t he y ha v e t he i r ' De ni m i s Re bo rn i n B o ssa" pro gram, whe re unwanted clo th in g th a t i s d e s t i ne d f o r l a nd f i l l i s c o l l e c te d and se nt to the i r te xti l e re c yc l i ng partner 'Gama r e cy c l e f i b r e a nd y a r n c o m p a n y' l o c ate d i n turke y f o r shre ddi ng. T ho se f i bre s are th e n tu r n ed i nt o ne w r e c y c l e d f a b r i c s f o r the de ni m i ndustry to use o nc e agai n i n ne w p r o d u cts.

Si n ce 2 0 1 8 t he y ha v e r e c o v e r e d a nd re uti l i z e d, 2 mi l l i o n ki l o grams.

B OSSA R E- S E T Th e R E- SET c o l l e c t i o n i s d e d i c a t e d to pro duc i ng re c yc l e d o rgani c and B C I ( B e tte r C otton I n i tiativ e ) d e ni m f a b r i c s .

Th e r an ge u s e s na t ur a l i nd i g o d y e s de ri ve d f ro m a pl ant spe c i e s c al l e d Indi go f e ra. T he u se o f n atu r al d y e s m e a ns wo r k e r s a r e no t e xpo se d to to xi c c he mi c al s f o und i n o the r c o mm on ly u sed d y es, a nd t he l i k e l i ho o d o r s e v e ri ty o f wate r po l l uti o n i s re duc e d. w w w .b o ssa.c o m . t r CA L I K D EN IM Tu r k ish D en i m m i l l C a l i k D e ni m ha s i ntro duc e d a pate nt-pe ndi ng pro c e ss c al l e d E-D en im, w h ich al lo w s t he c o m p a ny t o i nc o r p orate hi ghe r re c yc l e d f i bre c o nte nt i nto the i r ri ng-s pu n y ar n .

Cal ik p r o d uc e s a f i ne y a r n, whi c h i s made f ro m 100% re c yc l e d f i bre , whi c h the n se e s th at same yar n w r a p p e d wi t h b l e nd e d r e c yc l e d c o tto n and hi gh-qual i ty c o tto n to pro duc e th e fin i sh ed co re - s p un y a r n. w w w .calik d e ni m . c o m / KIPAS Fo r 2 0 / 2 1 Ki p a s o f f e r s a who l e c o l l ec ti o n o f 100% re c yc l e d de ni m o btai ne d f ro m bl e ndin g co tto n scr aps f r o m p o s t - i nd us t r i a l waste and the ho te l i ndustry' s be d l i ne ns.

V I CUN HA L au n ch e d the i r ' A b s o l ut e E c o r a ng e bac k i n 2019, whi c h i nc l ude d re c yc l e d de ni m that didn 't u se an y d y e p r o c e s s wi t h t he c o l o ur s c o mi ng f ro m the o ri gi nal i ndi go o f the re c yc l e d den im o n ly PR OSP ER I T Y TE XTIL E S H av e f o cu ss e d o n t he i r r e c y c l e d c o t t o n Re i ndi go l i ne that uti l i z e s pre -i ndustri al c utti ng wa ste.

N o ad d i tio n a l d y e i ng i s r e q ui r e d d ue to the o ri gi nal i ndi go to ne s that c o me f ro m the prein d u str i al r e c y c l e d wa s t e .

Pr o sp e r ity t e xt i l e i s a l s o wo r k i ng o n Indi go -f re e de ni m. T he Re vo l uti o nary B l ue c o l l e ction featu r es a ne w p r o p r i e t a r y e c o - d y e i n g te c hno l o gy that i s ani l i ne -f re e , hydro sul f i te -f re e an d sav es 6 0 p e r c e nt wa t e r .

EV L O X H as a su stai na b l e f a b r i c c o l l e c t i o n c a l l e d Re -Org that c l ai m to be the f i rst c o mpany i n Europe to b e gr an te d d o ub l e c e r t i f i c a t i o n G R S ( Gl o bal Re c yc l e d S tandard) and OC S ( Organi c C o nten t stan d ar d ). T he c o m p a ny o f f e r s ni ne de ni m f abri c s wi th re c yc l e d mate ri al s and o rgani c origin co mb in e d .

108

R ESPO NSIBLE MATER I AL I N DEX

Im a g e : BOS S A

109

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Man-Made Cellulosic Fibre Source LEN Z I NG | R EFI B R A ™ i s a m a n- m a d e c e l l ul o se f i bre made f ro m pre -c o nsume r c o tto n sc raps comb in e d w i th w o o d p ul p , m e a ni ng i t o nl y re l i e s o n re -usi ng what has al re ady be e n made to cr eate f r esh fib r e s f o r us e . I t i s a l s o p r o d u c e d wi th T e nc e l ' s L yo c e l l c l o se d-l o o p syste m, he l p in g su p p o r t th e ci r cul a r e c o no m y i n t e x t i l e s . h ttp s:/ / w w w .te n c e l . c o m / r e f i b r a R E: NEWCEL L tr a ns f o r m s c e l l ul o s i c wa s t e suc h as c o tto n and man-made c e l l ul o si c i nto n ew fib r e s. Th e ir b r an d e d m a t e r i a l i s b e t t e r k no wn as C IRC UL OS E. T he y al so partne re d wi th T angsh an Sa n yo u in 2 0 1 9 a nd he l p e d p r o d uc e a v i sc o se stapl e f i bre T ANGC EL L ™ , made f ro m 50% postcon su me r r e cy cle d c o t t o n t e xt i l e s s up p l i e d by Re :ne wc e l l . h ttp s:/ / w w w .r e n e wc e l l . c o m / e n/ ASA HI K A SEI B EM B E R G, i s a c up r o f i b r e m ade f ro m 100% c o tto n l i nte r, a pre -c o nsume r re si du e fr om co tto n p r o c e s s i ng . B e m b e r g i s s up e r f i ne and c an be wo ve n i nto f abri c f o r j ac ke t & skirt lin ings. I t can al s o b e wo v e n i nt o m i d - w e i ght f abri c s, i nc l udi ng l i ghtwe i ght tro use rs o r e ven d en im. h ttp s:/ / w w w .asahi - k a s e i . c o . j p / f i b e r s / e n/ b e mbe rg/ BIR L A, is p r o d u c i ng a v i s c o s e f i b r e us i ng re c yc l e d c o tto n f abri c waste as we l l as o the r cellu l o se v i sco se , m o d a l , a nd l y o c e l l f i b r e s de ri ve d f ro m wo o d so urc e d f ro m sustai nabl y manag ed for e sts an d p r o duc e d b y c l o s e d - l o o p p r o c e sse s. h ttp s:/ / w w w .b i r la c e l l ul o s e . c o m / p r o d uc t s ION CEL L - I o n ce l l ® i s a t e c hno l o g y t ha t t u rns use d te xti l e s, pul p, o r e ve n o l d ne wspape rs i nto n ew te x ti le f ib r e s s us t a i na b l y us i ng a n I o ni c no ve l so l ve nt. T he pro c e ss c o nve rts c e l l ul o se i nto fib r e s w h ich in tur n c a n b e m a d e i nt o l o ng-l asti ng f abri c s.

We w o n 't, h o w e v e r , s e e t hi s e m e r g e o nt o the marke t unti l 2025. h ttp s:/ / i o n cel l.f i/ EVR NU, is a USA - b a s e d c o m p a ny t ur ni ng c e l l ul o si c te xti l e waste i nto ne w man-made c e l l ul osic fib r e s ( M M CF's). T he y a r e c ur r e nt l y no t a t sc al e , so thi s i s a f uture te c hno l o gy that wi l l e me rge over th e n e x t few y e a r s a t s c a l e . h ttp s:/ / w w w .e v r n u. c o m /

110

Im a ge: LE NZ I NG

R ES PO NSIBLE MATER I A L IN DEX

111

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Fabric Source

Stretch Alternatives

C A N D IA N I - B i o - S tre tc h D e ni m C o r e v a ™ i s i nno v ati ve , bi o de gradabl e de ni m made f ro m o r g a ni c c o t t o n wi t h a natural rubbe r c o re . T he sustai nabl e c us t o m - e ng i ne e r ed rubbe r, kno wn as C o re va™ , i s pl antb a s e d a nd r e p l a c e s the c o nve nti o nal synthe ti c and pe tro l b a s e d e l a s t o m e r s to make stre tc h de ni m. T hi s uni que f abri c i s m a d e f r e e o f pl asti c s and mi c ro pl asti c s but sti l l o f f e rs t he s a m e e l a s t i c i t y and re c o ve ry pro pe rti e s as c o nve nti o nal s t r e t c h d e ni m . ht t p s : / / www. c a nd iani de ni m.i t/ A R TIS TIC M IL L IN E RS H a v e c r e a t e d t he i r B i o -Vi so n pl atf o rm that al l o ws brands to a c c e s s t he ' B e s t ' ( and e vo l vi ng) o pti o ns f o r bi o de gradabl e / c o m p o s t a b l e i ng r edi e nts f o r z e ro waste de si gn c o nc e pts. T he f a b r i c s c o m p l i a nt wi th the El l e n Mac Arthur Je ans Re de si gn g ui d e l i ne s , e l i m i nate po l ye ste r i n stre tc h c o nstruc ti o ns. T he r e s ul t i ng m a t e r i a l s are c o mf o rtabl e , and mai ntai n the same p e r f o r m a nc e s t a ndards as f abri c s made wi th po l y. www.a r t i s t i c m i l l i n e rs.c o m

R O IC A V 550 b y A SAHI KAS EI Ro i c a ® i s a s t r e t ch f i bre de si gne d f o r stre tc h and re c o ve ry p r o p e r t i e s b a s e d o n Asahi Kase i po l yme r sc i e nc e . It i s d e s i g ne d t o p r o v i de the ri ght re spo nse to di ve rse c usto me r ne e d s . Ro i c a ® V 5 50 i s avai l abl e f ro m 33 dte x to 1870 dte x.

S ui t a b l e f o r a p p l i cati o ns suc h as kni tti ng, kni t-we ave , l ac e , s e a m l e s s , na r r o w tape and we avi ng.

V 5 5 0 ha s b e e n c e rti f i e d and appro ve d by C radl e -to -C radl e to b e us e d i n G o l d C 2C c e rti f i e d Pro duc ts www. c 2 c c e r t i f i e d . o rg/ www. a s a hi - k a s e i . co .j p * P l e a s e no t e t hat V550 i s no t f ul l y bi o de gradabl e . It b i o d e g r a d e s f a s t e r than c o nve nti o nal synthe ti c stre tc h yarns & f i l a m e nt s b ut no t who l l y.

112

SUSTA I NA B L E M AT E R I A L I N DEX

TOP-QUALITY TESTING, ANALYSIS AND CERTIFICATION – WORLDWIDE WITH SWISS RELIABILITY, SINCE 1846.

TESTEX stands for top-quality testing, analysis and certification – worldwide with Swiss reliability. We certify as an accredited, independent testing laboratory recognised worldwide.

Find more information at www.testex.com | melbourne@testex.com, auckland@testex.com

113

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

JAPANESE MI L L S K UR O K I M I L L Th e K u r o k i M i l l , l o c a t e d i n O k a y a m a, Japan, has b ee n activ e s i nc e 1 9 5 0 , whe n T a m o tsu Kuro ki star te d to m a nuf a c t ur e a nd s e l l c o t t on f abri c s f o r clo th in g an d i nd us t r i a l us e . B y t he 1 970s, Kuro ki sw itch e d en t i r e l y o v e r t o d e ni m p r oduc ti o n and th e mi ll is c ur r e nt l y c o ns i d e r e d o ne o f the be st in Jap an . The c o m p a ny i s d i v i d e d i nt o thre e parts w h ich fo cu s o n d i f f e r e nt s t a g e s o f pro duc ti o n.

Th e f ir st i s whe r e d e ni m i s d y e d a nd si z e d, the n e x t w h er e t he d e ni m i s wo v e n o n s huttl e l o o ms, (w h ich cr eat e t he s e l v e d g e e d g e l i ne s ) and l astl y, d en im i s f ini s he d a nd wa s he d o r l e f t raw. T o day K u r o k i p r o duc e d e ni m f o r t he he a v i e r hi tte rs i n th e i n d u str y .

NI HON M EN P U M IL L Fo u n d ed in 1 9 1 7 , b ut s t a r t e d i n d e ni m i n 1985.

D e ep in th e m o unt a i ns o f O k a y a m a l i e s Ni ho n M e n p u , a 90 - y e a r - o l d m i l l s p e c i a l i z ing i n do ugi fab r ics, an d t r a d i t i o na l J a p a ne s e t e xti l e s. T he N ih o n M e n pu m i l l i s s y no ny m o us wi t h de ni m and th e h i gh e st qua l i t y c o t t o n t e x t i l e s a nd has wo rke d w i th se v e r al r e no wne d l ux ur y b r a nd s. T hi s de ni m b egi n s as u np r o c e s s e d c o t t o n t hr e a ds whi c h are th e n d ip p ed i nt o v a t s o f i nd i g o d y e , made f ro m th e mi ll's se c r e t m i x t ur e o f p i g m e nts and the n w o v e n in to bo l t s o f f a b r i c o n s l o w, na rro w l o o ms th at d ate b ac k t o a s e a r l y a s 1 9 2 0 . N i ho n pro duc e s h i gh - q u ality s e l v e d g e d e ni m f o r b r a nds suc h as Amer i ca's R o g ue T e r r i t o r y .

A M HO T M I L L S Fo u n d ed in 1 9 9 3 , l o c a t e d i n O s a k a .

O ffer a r an ge o f m o d e r n f a b r i c s , i nc l u di ng pl e ate d d en im.

K UR A B O Fo u n d ed i n 19 7 0 p r o d uc e d a nd m a r k e te d the f i rstev er d e n i m pr o d uc e d i n J a p a n c a l l e d KD -* Kurabo D e n i m. Th e y a r e s t i l l s e e n t o d a y a s a t rai l bl az e r i n Jap an s d e n i m hi s t o r y .

CO L L ECT (p a r t o f J a p a n B l ue J e a ns g r oup) Fo u n d ed in 1 9 9 2 , t he y ha v e b e e n me ti c ul o usl y w e av i n g d en i m o n a nt i q ue l o o m s . T he y are al so o n e o f th e o nl y m i l l s t o b e p r o d uc i ng de ni m wi th b an an a f ib r e c o m b i ne d .

K A I HA R A M I L L S Estab l ish ed i n 1 9 5 1 wi t h o r i g i ns t ha t go as f ar b ack as 1 8 93 . T he f o und e r S uk e j i r o Kai hara was a r e al i n d i go e x p e r t . T he y we r e t he f i rst Japane se mi lls to d ev e l o p e d a r o p e - d y e i ng m a c hi ne . T o day th e y w o r k wi t h b r a nd s s uc h a s N ud i e and J.C re w.

114

R ESPO NSIBLE MATER I AL I N DEX

115

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Dyes, Washes & Finishes CA L I K - Tu r k e y D e n e th i c i s a r a ng e o f f a b r i c s t ha t have washe d e f f e c ts wi tho ut ac tual l y go i ng thro ugh th e w ash i n g p r o c e s s . T he f a b r i c s a r e p r o duc e d to have the appe aranc e o f be i ng ri nse washed, r in se, an d e nz y m e wa s he d , o r b l e a c he d. D e ne thi c mate ri al s c an be use d f o r c ut and s ew gar me n ts o r l a und e r e d f o r he a v i e r w ash e f f e c ts, usi ng l e ss wate r, c he mi c al s, e ne rgy a n d time . Th e co nc e p t i nc l ud e s v i nt a g e - l o o ki ng and c ro sshatc h f abri c s i n bo th mi d and l i g h t w ash e s.

NA V EENA 'S D e ni m X. o c o l l e c t i o n i nc l ude s ne w l ase r se nsi ti ve f abri c s c al l e d B e am D e nim.

Th e mater i a l s a r e s p e c i f i c a l l y d e s i g ne d f o r l ase r appl i c ati o ns. T he y have al so i ntro duced th e ir 'N ick Ind i g o ' whi c h us e s l e s s t ha n 1% Indi go .

R UD O L F HU B 1 9 2 2 a i m t o m a k e l a s e r f i ni shi ng mo re e f f i c i e nt wi th the appl i c ati o n o f Rudolf L ase r p r ime r , a t e c hno l o g y m a d e up o f f o ur pro c e sse s that c an ' si gni f i c antl y e nhance' aesth e tics o f i nd i g o a nd s ul p hur d y e s.

EV ER EST laund r y l o c a t e d ne a r V e ni c e .

Ev e r est u se s v a r i o us e c o - f r i e nd l y t r e a tme nts and ac hi e ve s use d-de ni m l o o ks wi th l ase r or o zo n e gas to m i ni m i s e wa t e r c o ns um pti o n and the use o f c he mi c al s.

A FGI h as al s o c r e a t e d a r a ng e o f M -Po we r f abri c s, a range o f de ni m f abri c s de si gne d to emp o w er the us e o f l a s e r s . T he m a t eri al s are made wi th 100 pe r c e nt c e l l ul o se f i bre s to av o id h e at d a m a g e a nd m e l t i ng und e r l i ght/ l ase rs. M Po we r f abri c s are al so adj uste d to ach i ev e th e p e r f e c t p H a nd c o nc e nt r a ti o n to e nsure ri c hl y c o l o ure d dye s. M-Po we r f abrics ar e su lp h u r - f r e e , m a k i ng t he m t he i d e al c anvas f o r c ri sp o r vi ntage i mage s.

SA I T EX Sai tex in v es t e d $ 2 m i l l i o n i n t he wate r syste m al o ne to sho w i t' s po ssi bl e to make en v i r o n me nt a l l y s a f e b l ue j e a ns . T he so l ar-po we re d pl ant do e sn' t use f o ssi l f ue l s, re l yin g o n b io mass g e ne r a t o r s t ha t b ur n wo o d shavi ngs and c o c o nut husks—e c o -f ri e ndl y washin g mach in e s bl e a c h f a b r i c wi t h m i ni m a l wate r. S ai te x use s l e ss than a l i tre to make j e an s w h er e tr ad it i o na l p r o c e s s e s r e q ui r e 80 ti me s that muc h. T he f ac to ry i s L EED -c e rti f i e d f rom th e U.S. Gr e e n B ui l d i ng C o unc i l , t he o nl y j e an-make r i n Vi e tnam to e arn i t.

Sai tex w o r k s wi t h c l i e nt s s uc h a s E i l ee n Fi she r, Oute rkno wn, G-S tar raw, to name a f e w.

I SK O u ses L a z e r ' wa s hi ng ' t o c r e a t e f i ni she s o n the i r Earthf i t range , whi c h use s o rgani c an d r ecycled c o t t o n.

OFFI CI N A +39 R e cy cr o m d y e i s m a d e f r o m t e xt i l e waste transf o rme d i nto f i ne pi gme nt dye po wde r.

116

R ES PO NSIBLE MATER I A L IN DEX

Dyes, Washes & Finishes A R T I ST I C M IL L IN E R S - ha v e r e c e nt l y de ve l o pe d Pure c o l o r, a ne w dye i ng te c hno l o gy th at u ses 1 0 0 % n atu r al d y e s t uf f s wi t ho ut a d d i ng any synthe ti c c he mi c al s. T he i r ne w se ve n-c o l o ur c ollection o f fer s d yes de r i v e d f r o m na t ur e . A l l co l o urs are c e rti f i e d by GOT S and me e t ZD HC MRSL Level 1 cer ti ficatio n r e q ui r e m e nt s . T he y a r e te ste d to e nsure that re si due s c o ntai n no he avy metals tr aces an d th e r e f o r e a r e no t ha r m f ul to babi e s, c hi l dre n, adul ts and the pl ane t.

Pu r eco lo r co ns um e s 5 0 % l e s s wa t e r a n d 37% l e ss e ne rgy than standard dye i ng te c hni ques u sin g syn th eti c d y e s t uf f s . T he t e c hno l o g y c a n wi thstand a mi ni mum o f 5 ho me l aunde ri ngs and w orks in th e r i gh t c o m b i na t i o n wi t h P ur e s of t, Arti sti c Mi l l i ne rs re spo nsi bl y so urc e d 100% o rg an ic or v e gan so ften e r s .

A R CHR OM A - C o nt i nue t o p r o d uc e t hei r ani l i ne f re e i ndi go c al l e d D e ni so l Pure Indi go .

Ar ch r o ma al s o ha s a c o m p r e he ns i v e r a nge o f ' EarthC o l o urs' made f ro m natural dye s.EarthColors® is Ar ch r o ma' s p a t e nt e d ne w m e t ho d . T he se hi gh-pe rf o rmanc e dye s are synthe si z e d f rom n on ed i b le agr i cul t ur a l o r he r b a l i nd us t ri e s waste suc h as l e ave s o r nutshe l l s. T hanks to smart tech n o lo gi es , E a r t hC o l o r s ® d y e s a r e f ul l y trac e abl e – f ro m natural waste mate ri al to the store.

Cu r r en tly e x c l us i v e t o b r a nd o wne r s onl y. w w w .ar ch r o m a . c o m D ESER T ST UD IO S . I n 2 0 1 6 D e s s e r t S tudi o i naugurate d i ts Hydro -L e ss L aundry, a ne w facility th r o u gh w h i c h g a r m e nt s a r e p r a c t i c a l l y washe d wi tho ut e mpl o yi ng any wate r. L o c ate d on th e ed ge o f th e d e s e r t i n D ub a i , t he i r f a c i l i ty has c ut 95% o f i ts wate r c o nsumpti o n c o mpared w ith r egu lar l au n d r i e s . T o d a y D e s s e r t S t ud io s has i ntro duc e d the i r EC F f i ni sh, an e f f i c i e nt ti me savin g, r ed u ced ch em i c a l us a g e a nd e l i m i na t i o n o f any waste wate r di sc harge duri ng the f abri c processin g tr eatmen t th a t c r e a t e s f a s t e r f a d e s i n the l aundry.

T O NEL L O Te ch n o l o gy c o m p a ny T o ne l l o c o nt i nu e to pro mo te the i r ne w f i ni sh pro c e ss T he L aun dry (R) Ev o lu ti o n . Th e t e c hno l o g y o p t i m i z e s t h e e nti re garme nt f i ni shi ng pro c e ss usi ng two te c hnologies: L azer B laze, whi c h r e p l a c e s m a nua l abrasi o n: and T he Al l -In-One S yste m, whi c h pe rf orms all w ash i n g o p e r a t i o ns b y i nt e g r a t i ng f o ur te c hno l o gi e s, i nto a si ngl e mac hi ne .

To n e llo also ha s i t s W A KE s y s t e m , whi c h i s 100% sustai nabl e , usi ng o nl y o rgani c and fu lly co mp o stab le r a w m a t e r i a l s . W A KE , i s t h e f i rst natural dye i ng syste m, a re sul t o f T o ne l l o research .

R e se ar ch th a t f o r y e a r s ha s m a d e v i s i o nary, re spo nsi bl e , and e thi c al c ho i c e s o ri e nte d t ow ards su stai n ab l e p r o c e s s e s a nd g a r m e nt who l e so me ne ss Wak e i s h e alt hy f o r us a nd t he e nv i r o nme nt be c ause i t use s o nl y pl ants and ve ge tabl e was te, su ch as f lo w er s, be r r i e s , a nd r o o t s , d r i e d a nd i nf use d, wi th no c he mi c al addi ti ve s that are harmfu l to o u r sk i n . U si ng i t i s e a s y , a l m o s t l i k e pre pari ng he rbal te a: thi s i s a re al re vo l uti o n, a radical ch an ge o f p a r a d i g m .

Wak e can b e i ns t a l l e d o n a ny T o ne l l o dye i ng o r washi ng mac hi ne and c an be use d to ge ther w ith all o th e r All- I n- O ne S y s t e m t e c hno l o g i e s to o btai n uni que and pe rso nal i z e d e f f e c ts.

J EA NO L O GI A, ha s o p e ne d a n E ng i ne e ri ng C e nte r i n Ho ng Ko ng whi c h i s l i ke a mi ni factory , allo w in g th e c o m p a ny t o f i ni s h t he p r o duc ti o n o f j e ans i n an e c o -e f f i c i e nt way, and at th e same time sh ar e th e i r k no wl e d g e a nd k no w-ho w by trai ni ng l o c al c o mpani e s.

117

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

118

Te jidos Royo- D r y In d igo It is n o se cr et th at t he t r a d i t i o na l d e ni m i ndustry h as o n e o f th e w o r s t e t hi c a l a nd e nv i r o nm e ntal footpri n ts i n fash io n. P r o d uc e d us i ng c o nv e n ti o nal meth o d s, Gr e en p e a c e e s t i m a t e s i t c a n t a k e up to 7 ,00 0 litr es o f wa t e r t o m a k e a s i ng l e pai r of jea n s – eq u iv a l e nt t o t he a v e r a g e a m o unt a p er so n d r in k s o v e r t wo y e a r s . T he n t he r e i s the d yein g p r o ce ss, whi c h o f t e n r e q ui r e s a c oc ktai l of bleach , d y e and d e t e r g e nt s , m uc h o f whi c h en d s up i n n e ar b y wa t e r s o ur c e s . H o we v e r , i t wi l l b e someth in g o f th e p a s t , a s i n r e c e nt y e a rs, the d en im i n d u str y h a s a c c e l e r a t e d i t s p a c e t o c l e an u p its su p p ly ch ai n a nd c r e a t e d e ni m i n ne w ways.

Family r u n , Sp an i s h t e xt i l e m i l l T e j i d o s Ro yo i s d oing j u st th at.

The te x ti le mi ll ha s s p e nt m o r e t ha n a d e c ade d evelo p i n g 'D r y I nd i g o : a ne w p r o c e s s that ap p lies I n d igo d y e t o y a r n us i ng f o a m . I t r e qui re s zer o w ate r an d e li m i na t e s wa s t e wa t e r d i s c harge .

Ac cor d in g to th e m i l l , i t a l s o r e d uc e s i t s ene rgy b y 65% an d ch emi c a l p r o d uc t s b y 8 9 %, m a k i ng i t th e m o st en v i r o n m e nt a l l y f r i e nd l y i nd i g o - dye i ng p r ocess in th e w o rl d .

Fou n d e d i n 1 9 0 3 , i t wa s o ne o f t he f i r s t m i l l s to u se T en cel ™ b y L en z i ng a nd t he f i r s t i n E ur o pe to u se lo w imp act r a w m a t e r i a l s , s uc h a s r e c yc l e d an d o r gan ic f ib r es.

Wrangl e r was the f i rst brand to adopt Dry i ndi go whe n i t l aunc he d f o am-dye d den im i n 2019. S i nc e the n L e e , B anana Repu blic, S e ve n f o r al l Manki nd and El C o rte Ingl es h ave starte d to use D ry Indi go f abri c .

T e j i do s Ro yo has pl e dge d to do nate the w ater i t save s to sani tati o n pro gramme s a s th ey wo rk to wards the ai m o f maki ng al l bl ue jean s gre e n. http://www.te j i do sro yo .c o m www.wrangl e r.c o m.au/bl o g

119

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

SU P P LY CH A I N PA R TNERS C AN D I A N I CO REVA D ENIM If you h av e b e en l o o k i ng f o r a b i o d e g r a d a bl e 100% r en ewab ly so u r ced s t r e t c h d e ni m f a b r i c , t he n l o o k no fur ther.

Ca n d ia n i , a f ami ly - r un d e ni m we a v i ng m i l l , f o unde d in 1 9 3 8 an d l o cate d ne a r Mi l a n, I t a l y l a unc he d the i r b iodeg r ad ab l e Co re v a ™ s t r e t c h d e ni m l ate 2019.

After mu ch r esea r c h i nt o p l a nt - b a s e d e l asto me rs, an d fo u r y ear s o f d e v e l o p m e nt C a nd i a ni has be e n ab le to p r o d u ce CORE V A ™, a n i nno v a t i v e t e c hno l o gy d evelo p ed an d p ate nt e d b y C a nd i a ni D e ni m that use s a p la n t- b ased y ar n o b t a i ne d f r o m na t ur a l rubbe r to r ep la ce sy n th eti c, p e t r o l - b a s e d y a r ns . M ade f ro m or ga n i c co tto n w r ap p e d a r o und a na t ur a l r ubbe r c o re , th e r es u l t i s an en ti r e l y p l a s t i c - f r e e y a r n.

By r epl acin g co n v e nt i o na l s y nt he t i c a nd p e t ro l -base d ela stome r s w ith a n e w, c us t o m - e ng i ne e r e d c ompo ne nt, Ca n d ia n i h as cr ea t e d a n i nno v a t i v e b i o de gradabl e str etch d e n i m f ab r i c – wi t ho ut c o m p r o m i si ng the ela stic ity , p h ysi cal q ua l i t i e s , a nd d ur a b i l i t y of j e ans.

The fab r ics ar e als o d y e d us i ng C a nd i a ni ' s re so urc e savin g K i to te x Veg e t a l , a b i o d e g r a d a b l e i ngre di e nt mad e f r o m seaw ee d a nd m us hr o o m ( f o o d waste & indigo j u i ce) , r e p lac e s p o l y v i ny l a l c o ho l ( P V A) use d i n th e star ch in g, fix at i o n a nd s i z i ng a g e nt s t hat go i nto stan d ar d d e n i m ma nuf a c t ur i ng .

H avin g l au n ch e d l a t e 2 0 1 9 , C o r e v a ™ t e c hno l o gy has b een u sed i n co llec t i o ns b y S t e l l a M c C a r t ne y , D e nham an d m o r e r e cen tly i n J a n 2 0 2 1 b y C l o s e d .

In 2020 Can d ian i co ul d p r o d uc e b e t we e n 1 00, 000 and 1 5 0 ,000 metr e s o f C o r e v a . T hi s c a p a c i t y wi l l tri pl e in 2 0 2 1 an d tr i p le a g a i n i n 2 0 2 2 , r e a c hi ng aro und 2 million metr e s can m a k e a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1 .2 mi l l i o n p air s o f j ean s.

Ca n d ia n i i s n o w a wa i t i ng c e r t i f i c a t i o n o n the comp o stab ility o f the t e x t i l e , t o c r e a t e “ t he f inal uto pi c cir c u la r syste m”.

Im a ge: Ca nda nini

HI RDA RA MANI DI SCOVERY L A B Hi rdaramani D i sc o ve ry l ab i s an al l in on e h u b c o mmi tte d to c re ati ng sustai na ble fash ion thro ugh c o l l abo rati o n & i nno vati o n.

Hi rdaramani i s a pro ud partne r of th e Ellen Mac Arthur Fo undati o n' s T he Je ans Redesign pro j e c t. T hi s pro j e c t pro vi de s a lau n ch pad to e nsure al l c l o thi ng i s made f rom safe an d re ne wabl e mate ri al s, pro duc e d to l ast lon ger an d e asi l y re c yc l e d.

B rands c an j o i n Hi rdaramani o n this jou rn ey to make f ashi o n c i rc ul ar, to i ni ti ate action s th at re duc e waste and po l l uti o n. T o su pport th e pro te c ti o n o f natural re so urc e s by establish in g the e sse nti al re spe c t to pe o pl e ' s health , safety , and ri ghts i n al l parts o f the f ashion in du stry , parti c ul arl y to i mpro ve wo rki ng con dition s in manuf ac turi ng gl o bal l y.

C o nsume rs c an suppo rt the i ndustry in pu rch asin g de ni m c re ate d by T he Je ans Re de si gn Project from Outl and D e ni m, Oute rkno wn and ma n y more.

Abo ut Hi rdaramani Fo r o ve r 100 ye ars, Hi rdaraman i h as been c re ati ng the f uture o f appare l . T o da y , th ey are a gl o bal manuf ac ture r pro vi di ng i nte grated apparel de si gn, pro duc ti o n and di stri buti o n solu tion s to pre mi um i nte rnati o nal brands.

T he y do n' t j ust manuf ac ture c l oth in g; th ey partne r wi th c l i e nts to de l i ve r the f i n est garmen ts to di sc e rni ng c usto me rs wo rl dwi de .

B ase d i n S ri L anka, Hi rdarmani run th e w orlds f i rst gre e n f ac to ry that RawAsse mbl y w as lu cky to vi si t bac k i n 2014 - i t i s spe c tac ul ar. www.hi rdaramani .c o m

120

R ES PO NSIBLE MATER I A L I NDEX OR T A Fi r st estab lis he d i n 1 9 5 3 , O r t a Mi l l , lo cate d i n Tu r k e y , ha s b e e n we a v i ng a d en im h e r ita g e p a s s e d f r o m g e ne r a t i o n to gen er ati o n. A f t e r t r a ns i t i o ni ng f r o m a sp i n n in g & w e a v i ng c o m p a ny t o a d e n i m man u f actu r e r i n 1 9 8 5 , t o d a y t he m i l l p r o d u ces o v e r 6 0 m i l l i o n m e t e r s o f d e ni m p er y ear . I t c r e a t e s 7 0 0 d i f f e r e nt f a b ri c s fo r w o r ld - fa m o us b r a nd s . T ho ug h m a ny in te r n ati o n a l m i l l s ha v e s t r ug g l e d t o b r eak in to th e U . S . m a r k e t , O r t a c o un ts man y l ar ge A m e r i c a n b r a nd s a s c l i e nts an d is n o w r e g a r d e d a s a n i nno v a t i o n lead e r i n jea ns a nd s p o r t s we a r p r o d u ctio n .

O r ta w o r k s w i t h N o b o d y D e ni m , i n p ar ticu l ar o n t he i r F i b r e t r a c e c o l l e c t i on. h ttp s:/ / w w w . o r t a a na d o l u. c o m A D V A NCE DE N IM Th is lead i n g m i l l i s c o m m i t t e d t o p r o d u cin g d e ni m wi t h m i ni m a l i m p a c t o n th e e n v ir o n m e nt , i nv e s t i ng i n i nno v a t i ve tech n o lo gy t o a l l o w f o r m o r e s us t a i nabl e p r actices. W a s t e wa t e r r e c y c l i ng , r ed u ced w at e r c o ns um p t i o n a nd e ne rgy co n se r v ati o n f o c us o n A d v a nc e D e ni m , alo n g w ith us i ng c o t t o n f r o m t he B e t t e r Co tto n I n itia t i v e whe r e p o s s i b l e . W e lo ve so u r ci n g fr o m t hi s m i l l f o r i t s d ur a b l e and co mfo r tab l e d e ni m . h ttp s:/ / w w w . a d v a nc e d e ni m . c o m / I SK O A lead e r i n q ua l i t y d e ni m m a nuf a c t uri ng, lo cate d i n Tu r k e y . I S KO ' s j o ur ne y i nt o tex tiles b e ga n m o r e t ha n a c e nt ur y a go an d to d ay th e c o m p a ny ' s f a c t o r y ho u se s mo r e th an 1,5 0 0 a ut o m a t e d l o o m s t hat p r o d u ce a r a ng e o f i nno v a t i v e f a b r i c s, in cl u d i n g stre t c h t e c hno l o g y d e ni m .

T o day, the c o mpany’ s si gnature se l ve dge de ni m c o nti nue s to be wo ve n o n 1940s Ame ri c an D rape r x3 f l y shuttl e l o o ms.

Passi o n, unri val l e d kno wl e dge and te c hni c al e xpe rti se have e nsure d the C o ne Mi l l i s syno nymo us wi th hi ghqual i ty de ni m pro duc ti o n. C o ne de ni m al so wo rk c l o se l y wi th Ori tai n to add the i r f i nge rpri nt te c hno l o gy to ve ri f y t h e o ri gi ns o f c o tto n. https://www.c o ne de ni m.c o m/ P RO SP ERI TY TEX TI L E Ove r the l ast twe nty ye ars, f ami l y-o wn ed Pro spe ri ty T e xti l e has gro wn to be c o me o ne o f the l arge st de ni m mi l l s i n Asi a wi th a gl o bal re putati o n f o r val ue -addin g pe rf o rmanc e e c o -de ni m. It i s o ne o f o nl y two de ni m mi l l s wo rl dwi de to ho ld the B l ue S i gn c e rti f i c ati o n and ai ms to be c o me the wo rl d’ s mo st sustai nabl e mi l l .

T he y ai m to c ho o se the be st qual i ty c o tto n yarns avai l abl e gl o bal l y and o btai n mo re f ro m sustai nabl e so urc e s suc h as B C I; C o tto n L EAD S , o rgani c , re c yc l e d, e tc .

Pro spe ri ty T e xti l e i s i n partne rshi p with Je ano l o gi a; are i ntro duc i ng l ase r wash in g and o z o ne washi ng te c hno l o gy to C hi na, savi ng up to 60% o f wate r and e l e c tri city c o nsumpti o n c o mpare d to the tradi ti on al washi ng tre atme nt f o r de ni m garme nt s. https://pro spe ri ty-te xti l e .c o m/

h ttp s:/ / i sk o d e ni m . c o m / p r o d uc t s CO NE M I L L Th e Co n e M i l l , b a s e d i n G r e e ns b o r o , N o r th Car o l i na wa s o r i g i na l l y e s t a b l i s he d in 1 8 9 9 as a t e xt i l e m a nuf a c t ur i ng p l antp r imar i ly p ro d uc i ng f l a nne l s . I n 1 9 0 5 , th e mill star t e d t o m a nuf a c t ur e s e l v e dge d en im u sin g t r a d i t i o na l s hut t l e l o o m s, so me o f w h i c h a r e s t i l l i n us e t o d a y . By 1 9 0 8 , th e co m p a ny wa s t he l a r g e s t d eni m man u f actu r e r i n t he wo r l d .

Co n e M ills wa s t he e xc l us i v e d e ni m p r o d u cer fo r L e v i ' s , unt i l L e v ' s m o v e d th e ir p r o d u c t i o n o v e r s e a s , a l t ho ug h p r emiu m Le v i ' s a r e s t i l l c ut f r o m t he same o l d Co ne D e ni m . C o ne m i l l s f a bri c s can alw ays b e i d e nt i f i e d b y t he r e d l i ne i n th e ir sel v e d g e e d g e .

Im a g e : L E V I' s , C ON E DE NI M SE LVE DG E

121

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Component Sourcing CHA R L E BE R L IN - E s t . 2 0 1 0 , C H A RL E , was f i rst e stabl i she d as a c hi l dre n' s we ar brand, wh ich cr e ates garm e nt s us i ng r e s p o ns i b l e m ate ri al s and pro duc ti o n me tho ds that re spe c t pe ople an d an ima l s ' e nv i r o nm e nt . N o t b e i ng abl e to so urc e sustai nabl e e l asti c s, the f o under M an d y G edd e r t s e t up he r s up p l y c hai n and de ve l o pe d a l i ne o f e l asti c made f ro m a bl en d o f o r gan i c c o t t o n a nd na t ur a l r ub b e r. ​ Ch ar l e B e r l i n e l a s t i c s a r e s o m e o f t he o nl y sustai nabl e and natural rubbe r e asi l y ac c e ssible e lasti cs o n t he m a r k e t t o d a y w w w .p r e mi um - ha b e r d a s he r y . d e O R GA N I C C O TTO N C O L O U R S - P r oduc e 100% Organi c c o tto n l abe l l i ng f o r the f ash ion i n d u str y f r o m t he i r f a c i l i t i e s i n S p a i n. w w w .o r gani c c o t t o nc o l o ur s . c o m / e n/ CA D I CA p r o d uc e s l a b e l l i ng a nd p a c kagi ng i n Ital y. h ttp s:/ / w w w. c a d i c a . c o m / P A N A M A T R IM M IN G, p r o d uc e a wi d e vari e ty o f tri ms, i nc l udi ng natural c o rk Jac ro ns. h ttp s:/ / w w w. p a na m a t r i m m i ng s . i t / M I C M A N I F F U R A ITA L IA N A C U C IR INI, Organi c C o tto n se wi ng thre ads h ttp :/ / w w w . m i c s p a . c o m / COA T S SEW IN G TH R E A D S Co ats L in e n i s m a d e f r o m hi g h- q ua l i ty f l ax f i bre s, i ts an e nvi ro nme ntal l y f ri e ndl y se win g th r ead an d i t g i v e s y o ur s e a m s a na t ural , authe nti c l o o k and i s pl asti c -f re e .

Co ats also ha v e a c o t t o n t hr e a d t ha t c an al so be me rc e ri z e d to make i t stro nge r f o r den im p r o d u cti o n . h ttp s:/ / w w w. c o a t s . c o m / e n Y K K -G r ee nRi s e Zi p p e r s a r e m a d e f r om pl ant-base d pl asti c ( Pl ease n o t e t ha t p l a nt - b a s e d p l a s t i c do e s no t make the se pro duc ts bi o de gradabl e . Pl an tb ased p last i c s a r e s t i l l p l a s t i c s . ) BOT A NI CA TIN C TO R IA - N a t ur a l l y D ye d T ri ms & T hre ads, made by arti sans.

Au str alia - T he T hr e a d S t ud i o : ht t p : / /www.the thre adstudi o .c o m/ New Z eal and - N a nc y ' s S t i t c h S t ud i o : nanc ys@nanc ys.c o .nz Eu r o p e - St i k ' n S t o f : www. s t i k e ns t o f.nl USA - O r ga ni c C o t t o n P l us : www. o r g a ni c c o tto npl us.c o m

122

R ES PO NSIBLE MATER I A L I NDEX

Etsy – Circular Sourcing In s t a g r a m – @ c i r c u l a r s o u r c i n g F a c e b o o k - @ s u s t a i n a b l e f a s h i o n s ource

Circular Sourcing L aunc he d b y M e l b o ur ne b a s e d c i rc ul ar f ashi o n lab e l A . B C H i n e a r l y 2 0 1 9 , Circu la r S o u rcin g is a p l a t f o r m t o he l p s m a l l t o me di um f ashi o n b r and s a c c e s s c i r c ul a r & r e s po nsi bl e mate ri al s, n o ti o ns a nd t r i m s a t t he b e s t po ssi bl e pri c e s.

I t is a t r ue c o l l a b o r a t i o n, with e ac h i nte re ste d b r and a b l e t o p l e d g e t o p re -o rde r mate ri al s acco r d i ng t o t he i r a b i l i t y whi l e he l pi ng the co l le c t i v e r e a c h hi g h MO Q targe ts that are u n a c hi e v a b l e a l o ne . M o r e t han e ve r, c i rc ul ari ty is fr o nt a nd c e nt r e o f d i s c us si o n i n the f ashi o n in d u s t r y , y e t a c t i o ns a t s c a l e h ave be e n mi ni mal .

To c ha ng e t hi s C i r cul a r S o u rcin g pro vi de s an o p e n p l a t f o r m f o r c o l l e c t i v e ac ti o n to suppo rt co n s c i o us design d e c i s i ons, mo vi ng the in d u s t r y t o wa r d s c i r c ul a r i t y, re ge ne rati o n and a r e s p o ns i b l e f ut ur e f o r a l l .

123

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

WHAT 'S E ME RGING? Th i s ye a r , we s e e m o r e ha nd - fi ni she d l abe l s wi th a c raf t e l e me nt, made o f u p cy cle d d e ni m a nd c o t t o n c o m i n g o nto the marke t. Mo re de si gne rs want to uti l i se i n gr e d ie nt s t ha t a l r e a d y e xi s t t o day, i nste ad o f pro duc i ng ne w.

We ar e s e e i ng m a t e r i a l s b e i ng l e f t i n the i r raw state , o the rs usi ng re c yc l e d c o tto n, d e n i m, a nd o t he r na t ur a l m a t e r i al s havi ng the i r surf ac e s mani pul ate d to c hange th e o r i g i na l c o nd i t i o n' s l o o k .

Th e k e y d i r e c t i o n i s ha nd m a d e l abe l s that are uni que and pre c i o us; T hi s spe aks to th e gr o wi ng s l o w f a s hi o n m o v e me nt and usi ng e ve rythi ng that was o nc e de e me d w aste a s s o m e t hi ng ne w.

Wh e n i t c o m e s t o b ut t o ns , t hi s l a ndsc ape i s c hangi ng rapi dl y, as butto ns are made p ar ti ally f r o m p a p e r , d e ni m a nd c o tto n e me rge o n the marke t. T he se butto ns are n o t ma d e o f 1 0 0 % na t ur a l i ng r e di e nts to day; i nste ad, the y are a c o mbi nati o n o f n atu r al a nd r e c y c l e d i ng r e d i e nt s and i n so me c ase s have f i l l e rs adde d. It' s hard to 1 0 0 % k n o w ho w t he s e wi l l e v o l v e , but i t' s e xc i ti ng to se e mo re tho ughtf ul pro duc ts b e in g d e v e l o p e d .

124

R ES PO NSIBLE MATER I AL I N DEX

In tr od u cin g Th e Et hi c a l C ho i c e b ut t o n C o l l ec ti o n f ro m Ca d ic a Su s ta i na b l e B l ue C o l l e ct i o n Ar ticle : CP2 1 1 3 / 1 4/ 1 5 1 5 -2 0 % r e cy cled p a p e r , 5 0 - 5 5 % f i l l e r s ( Re c y cl e d th er mo setti n g) & 2 0 - 2 5 % t e c hni c a l b i nd e r s a nd dye s.

Re cyc l e d Co tto n Ar ticle : SW2 1 0 8 / 0 9 2 0 % C o tto n 2 0 % Ec o v e l v e t P r o c . wa s t e , 5 5 - 8 8% Po l ye ste r r esin Re cyc l e d H e m p F i br e s 1 0 % He mp Fi b r es, 1 5 - 2 0 % F i l l e r s , 7 0 - 7 5 % P o l ye ste r Re si ns.

All p r o d u cts can be f ul l y r e c y c l e d a nd a r e Oe ko -te x cer tifi ed .

De gra d a b l e F i b e r C o l l e ct i o n This c o llecti o n f ea t ur e s b ut t o ns m a d e f r o m whe at, wo o d an d te a fib r es.

This c o llecti o n i s c e r t i f i e d B i o m a s s m a r k f o r c o ntai ni ng 30% Biom ass ( O r gan i c m a t t e r ) , f o l l o wi ng no n- wo o d gre e n mark for b agasse b u tto ns . T he s e b ut t o ns a r e d e r ive d f ro m the p omace b y- p r o d u c t f r o m t he s ug a r c a ne ( s ugar) i ndustry an d a r e r ecyclab le . www.cad i ca.co m

N ot hin g Cre a t e d , o nl y t r a ns f o r med.

125

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Levi's Hi stor y

M ay 2 0 , 1 8 7 3 , m a r k e d a hi s t o r i c d a y : t he bi rth o f the bl ue j e an. It was o n that day that L e v i Str au ss and J a c o b D a v i s o b t a i ne d a U.S . pate nt o n the pro c e ss o f putti ng ri ve ts in men ’ s w o r k p a nt s f o r t he v e r y f i r s t t i me .

L e v i Str au ss, a B a v a r i a n- b o r n d r y g o o d s me rc hant, c ame to S an Franc i sc o i n 1853 at the age o f 2 4 t o o p e n a W e s t C o a s t b r a nc h o f hi s bro the rs’ Ne w Yo rk who l e sal e dry go o d s b u sin e s s . O v e r t he ne x t 2 0 y e a r s , he bui l t hi s busi ne ss i nto a ve ry suc c e ssf ul o p er ati o n , ma k i ng a na m e f o r hi m s e l f no t o nl y as a we l l -re spe c te d busi ne ssman but a l so as a l o cal p hi l a nt hr o p i s t . O ne o f L e v i ’ s c usto me rs was a tai l o r name d Jac o b D avi s.

On e d ay th e wi f e o f a l o c a l l a b o ur e r a ske d Jac o b to make a pai r o f pants f o r he r hu sb an d th at wo ul d n’ t f a l l a p a r t . J a c ob tri e d to thi nk o f a way to stre ngthe n hi s tro u se r s an d c a m e up wi t h t he i d e a t o put me tal ri ve ts at po i nts o f strai n, l i ke po c ke t c o r n e r s an d the b a s e o f t he b ut t o n f l y . The se ri ve te d pants we re an i nstant hi t. Jac o b qu i ck ly d e cid e d t o t a k e o ut a p a t e nt o n the pro c e ss but ne e de d a busi ne ss partne r to he lp get th e pr o j e c t r o l l i ng . H e i m m e d iate l y tho ught o f L e vi S trauss, f ro m who m he had p u r ch ase d t he c l o t h t o m a k e hi s r i v e te d pants.

D av i s w r o te to L e v i t o s ug g e s t t ha t t he two me n ho l d the pate nt to ge the r. L e vi , be i ng a n astu te b u si ne s s m a n, s a w t he p o t e nt ial f o r thi s ne w pro duc t, and agre e d to Jac o b’ s pr o p o sal . Th e t wo m e n r e c e i v e d p a t e nt #139, 121 f ro m the U.S . Pate nt and T rade mark Office o n M ay 2 0 , 1 8 7 3 .

So o n , th e fir st r i v e t e d c l o t hi ng wa s m a de and so l d. L e vi s made the i r f i rst j e ans o ut o f d en im — th e t r a d i t i o na l f a b r i c f o r me n’ s wo rkwe ar. Wi thi n a ve ry sho rt ti me , the je an w as a b o na f i d e s uc c e s s . ( A l t ho ug h , we sho ul d no te that the y we re c al l e d “ wai st o v e r alls” o r “o v e r a l l s ” unt i l 1 9 6 0 whe n baby bo o me rs ado pte d the name “ j e ans.” ) L e v i 's co n si d e r Ma y 2 0 , 1 8 7 3 , t he “ b i r t h day” o f bl ue j e ans, be c ause al tho ugh de ni m pan ts h ad b e e n a r o und a s wo r k we a r f o r many ye ars, i t was the ac t o f pl ac i ng ri ve ts in th ese tr ad it i o na l p a nt s f o r t he f i r s t t i me that c re ate d what we no w c al l j e ans.

T h e n e x t ti me y o u s e e s o m e o ne we a r i ng a pai r o f L e vi ’ s® j e ans, re me mbe r that the se pan ts ar e a d i r e c t d e s c e nd a nt o f t ha t f i rst pai r made bac k i n 1873. T hat ye ar, two vi si o n ar y i mm i g r a nt s — L e v i S t r a us s a nd Jac o b D avi s — turne d de ni m, thre ad and a li ttle me tal i n t o wha t ha s b e c o m e t he mo st po pul ar appare l o n e arth.

L e vi s S trauss

126

1920s o v e r a l l s . Im a g e f r o m Vint a ge Da ncer.

127

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

JACRO NS T he t e r m “ J a c r o n” r e f e r s t o the smal l re c tangul ar-shape d patc h f o und o n t he b a c k s i d e o f a j e a ns ’ wai stband R e s e a r c h s ho ws t ha t L e v i was the f i rst de ni m brand to be gi n usi ng j ac ro ns o n t he i r d e ni m o v e r a l l s i n 1873. S ho rtl y the re af te r, L e vi be gan usi ng the m i n i t s j e a ns .

W he n j a c r o ns f i r s t a p p e are d duri ng the l ate 1800s the y we re use d to pr o t e c t a g a i ns t c o unt e r f e iti ng.

T he t wo ho r s e s p ul l i ng i n o ppo si te di re c ti o ns i l l ustrate the stre ngth o f L e v i s p r o d uc t s a nd t ha t t he y c o ul dn' t te ar the m apart — o r so thi s patc h s ug g e s t s . W i t h t he p a t e nt f o r ri ve te d j e ans se t to e xpi re i n 1890, the c o m p a ny c a m e up wi t h t he i de a o f usi ng a si mpl e i mage to c o nve y the t o ug hne s s o f t he p a nt s . T he two ho rse s tryi ng i n vai n to ri p the j e ans w o ul d b e c o m e a t r a d e m a rk o f the c o mpany and appe ar o n patc he s si nc e i t s i nc e p t i o n.

S t r a us s a nd o t he r s b e l i e v e d i t was al so a go o d way to stre ss the durabi l i ty t o c us t o m e r s who d i d n’ t k no w Engl i sh.

E v e n t o d a y , whe n ho r s es are ge ne ral l y no t use d to me asure te nsi l e s t r e ng t h, t he l e a t he r r e c t angl e o ve r L e vi ' s bac k ri ght po c ke t i l l ustrate s t he i r l e g e nd a r y d ur a b i l i t y and re i nf o rc e s the i r status as the o ri gi nato r o f p a t e nt e d r i v e t e d c l o t hi ng.

128

Im age: Lev i

129

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

UN DE RSTA N D I NG LEV I'S JACRO NS L e v i S t r a us s & C o . : L e vi S trauss was bo rn i n Ge rmany i n 1 8 2 9 a nd m o v e d t o the Uni te d S tate s wi th hi s f ami l y whe n he wa s 1 8 . H i s b r o t he rs ran a dry go o ds c o mpany i n Ne w Y o r k a nd L e v i a nd h i s o the r f ami l y me mbe rs se t up an o ut p o s t i n S a n F r a n c i sc o duri ng the go l d rush. L e vi wo ul d e v e nt ua l l y t e a m up wi th Wi l l i am Pri c e to start hi s o wn b us i ne s s c a l l e d L e v i S trauss & C o .

San Fr an ci sco , C a l . : T he or igin al ad d r e ss f o r L e v i Str au ss & Co . wa s 6 2 Sacr amen to Str e e t , S a n Fr an cis c o , C A .

5 0 1 : In 1 8 9 0 , w i th the p ate nt expir ing , l o t num b e rs w e re assigned to the d i f f e re nt g arm e nts fro m Levi ’s . 5 0 1 w as the l o t number gi ve n to the o ri gi nal XX. The rea s o n the num b e r w as cho sen is u nk no w n as m any o f the reco r ds we re d e s tro ye d i n the 1906 San Franc i s c o e arthq uak e .

We do kno w that i te m s that s tar ted with a “5 ” w e re the to p - o f the - l i ne .

Pate nte d M ay 2 0 , 1 8 7 3 : D a t e S t r a u s s and D avi s re c e i ve d th e i r p a t e n t .

Or i g i n a l R i v e t e d : Ja c ob Da vis w a s a t a i l o r f r o m N e v a da w h o c a m e u p w i t h t h e idea of u s i n g c o p p e r r i v e t s t o secure p o c k e t s a n d r e i n f o r c e a rea s o f s t r e s s o n a p a i r o f pa nt s t o m a k e t h e m m o r e dura ble.

In 1873, h e w o r k e d wit h Levi S t r a u s s t o p a t e n t t h e idea a n d b e g i n m a k i n g w o rk pa nt s f o r m i n e r s o u t o f b r o wn c o t t o n d u c k a n d b l u e denim f e a t u r i n g t h e s e r i v e t s.

T w o H o r s e s : W i t h t h e p a t ent f o r r i v e t e d j e a n s s e t t o e xpire i n 1890, t h e c o m p a n y c a me up w i t h t h e i d e a o f u s i n g a simple i m a g e t o c o n v e y t h e t o u ghness o f t h e p a n t s . T h e t w o h o rses t r y i n g i n v a i n t o r i p t h e j ea ns w o u l d b e c o m e a t r a d e m a rk of t h e c o m p a n y a n d a p p e a r on p a t c h e s s i n c e i t s i n c e p t i on.

S t r a u s s a n d o t h e r s b e l i e ved it w a s a l s o a g o o d w a y t o s t ress t h e d u r a b i l i t y t o c u s t o m ers who didn’t know English.

X X : Or i g i n a l l y u s e d t o d e s i g n a te t h e h i g h e s t q u a l i t y d e n i m f r o m t he Am o s k e a g M i l l i n M a n c h e s t e r , New H a m p s h i r e . S t r a u s s o b t a i n e d h is d e n i m f r o m t h e m i l l a n d u s e d it in c r e a t i n g t h e f i r s t p a i r o f b l u e j ea ns.

In t u r n , t h e y w e r e k n o w n a s t he X X .

130 RE F : CO O LMA T E R I A L

131 Im a g e C r e d it: LE VI ST R A U SS

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Jacron Paper (FSC)

In Outland Denim’s journey to becoming 100% leather-free, they have implemented Jacron paper patches following 12 months of research and testing. Outland Denim work with suppliers Frameless Asia Pacific to source their Jacron labels, which are OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified to ensure they are tested for harmful substances.

Jacron paper is a material made from raw cellulose derived from wood pulp, it can also be made from recycled paper and includes a small amount of acrylic polymer. Commonly used as a vegan alternative to leather patches for its similar appearance on denim jeans, Jacron is highly durable with strong tear and water-resistant properties.

AMO Denim made in Los Angeles features a 'shadow' patch created by hand removing the patch after the washing process to reveal a darker shade of denim which is further outlined with stitching German fashion brand Closed’s sustainable denim line A Better Blue created with Italian denim mill Candiani features a laser printed patch to assist in the products biodegradability. www.closed.com/en/

www.outlanddenim.com.au/

Nudie Jeans Jacron Paper Patch

Bra n d e d Jacro n Patc h e s A l ter nat ive lab e l l i ng c oncepts for jea ns

132

Image - Amendi

Image - Nudie Jeans

Image - Outland Denim

Image - @amodenim

Image - Closed

Swedish fashion label Amendi have created 'fabrication facts' tags to mimic the food industry's nutritional facts labelling system to transparently share with their customers the 'ingredients' and footprint of each product.

The tags include information on raw materials, water usage, certifications plus how many people were involved in the garments production.

Cork Cork bark is a renewable material derived from the outer bark of the cork oak tree, Quercus Suber that is native to southwest Europe and northwest Africa. The cork bark is harvested without harm to the tree.

Cork is naturally flexible, durable and can be used as a material alternative to label patches on denim.

Woven Organic Cotton The Jeans Redesign program by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation states in the guidelines to design for recyclability, and further circularity a minimum of 98% cellulose-based fibres by weight is required in the total textile product composition. To align with this guideline to aid circularity, organic cotton or cellulose based fabrics provide an alternative to conventional leather patches on denim jeans as they are not required to be removed saving manual labour time and reducing material waste.

MUD Jeans have replaced conventional leather patches by printing a brand label patch directly onto the denim waistband, making the jeans ‘mono-material’ to aid recyclability at the product's end-of-life. www.mudjeans.eu/

Panama Trimmings Renewable Cork Label

Image - HNST

Image - Buaisou

Image - Panama Trimmings

The patch sewn onto the back of each pair of Buaisou jeans uses the same cellulose-based woven cloth that is used for the jeans pocket lining. www.buaisou-i.com/

HNST denim jeans feature printed product care information labels on the inside pocket

Laser Laser technology is favoured for its ability to achieve desired finishes on denim whilst replacing harmful techniques such as sandblasting and PP spray. Employing laser technology in labelling reduces resources needed for the creation of alternative materials and aids recycling as patches do not need to be cut out and removed at the product's end-of-life.

To design for the future with recyclability and circularity in mind, recycled cellulose textile waste and self-fabric from the garments production offer a unique design alternative for denim back patch labels.

Printed Replace the use of leather or alternative material brand waistband patches by printing onto the denim directly with nontoxic C2C certified and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified colourant.

To eliminate polyester labels and excess labelling, various denim brands are transitioning to print product care information onto the jean pocket lining.

133

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

P l a stic -free leath e r a l te r nat ive s fo r b ra n de d jacron patch e s Mylo by Bolt Threads

Beyond Leather

Mylo is Bolt Threads revolutionary material that merges deep science with high design. Made from mycelium, the network of thread-like cells that make up mushrooms. Bolt Threads is a material solutions company. Taking nature as the inspiration they invent and scale advanced, credible materials that put us on a path towards a more sustainable future.

Beyond Leather are creating a plant-based and truly sustainable leather alternative with upcycled apple waste. A B2B supplier of their animal and plastic-free leather, Beyond Leather is a Danish startup based in Copenhagen. Beyond Leather's material consists of a minimum of 50% apple pulp with the last 50% being sustainably sourced ingredients.

Instagram: @boltthreads Website: www.boltthreads.com

Reishi by MycoWorks MycoWorks have created one of the world’s first non-plastic, non-animal bio-materials that performs like leather, and with a growing list of elite brand collaborations on the horizon, the Reishi team is helping to launch a new era in fashion. After nearly a a decade in development, the company launched Reishi, earlier this year.

Mycoworks “fine mycelium,” is a groundbreaking, fungus-grown material that looks, feels, and even smells like leather.

Instagram: @madewithreishi Website: www.madewithreishi.com/

134

Instagram: @beyond.leather Website: www.beyondleather.dk/

Mirium by Natural Fibre Welding Mirum® is a high-performance plant-based material made with natural, biodegradable polymers. Natural Fibre Welding's finished materials are never coated in polyurethane and use no synthetic binders. Their supple, durable material is created in a circular system that is free of petroleum-based plastics. Their hybrid composite material leverages the strength and diversity of virgin and recycled plant matter.

Instagram: @madewithmirium Website: www.mirum.naturalfiberwelding.com

135

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RIV ETS D i d y o u k no w t he r i v e t s o n y our j e ans do n' t se rve a purpo se and are pure l y d ec o r a t i v e ?

L ev i S t r a us s & C o . f i r s t a d d ed ri ve ts to the i r de ni m wo rk pants bac k i n 1 8 7 3 , t o he l p r e i nf o r c e t he p o c ke ts.

To d a y t ho s e p o c k e t s a r e s t i tc he d by mac hi ne ( bar-tac ke d) and the ri ve ts ar e j us t a d d e d a s d e c o r a t i o n.

Wh y i s t hi s a p r o b l e m i n t e rms o f de si gni ng f o r c i rc ul ari ty and re duc i ng w as t e ?

R i v e t s a r e v e r y d i f f i c ul t t o re mo ve f ro m a garme nt. C urre ntl y, the y are ei the r r e m o v e d b y c ut t i ng aro und the m by hand o r usi ng me c hani c al cu tt i ng m e t ho d s . T hi s l i m i t s the amo unt o f use abl e f abri c that c an be cap t ur e d f o r r e c y c l i ng . B y r e duc i ng the ri ve ts use d o r by e l i mi nati ng the m w e c a n i nc r e a s e t he a m o unt o f f abri c that we c an ge t bac k.

C o nc e al e d ri ve t o n a p a i r o f v i n t a g e L e v i ’ s j e a n s c . 1950’ s .

136

Image: Levi Tru e Fit

137

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

D e n i m T oday | A co llectio n o f i m age s f ro m aro und the wo r l d Im a g e by : Julie a aga ar d

138

RE SOURC E S & SOU R CI N G

STAYING CONNECTED IN A DIGITAL WORLD

139

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Digital Fashion I t's e xc i t i ng t i m e s f o r f a s hi o n and te c hno l o gy ri ght no w. Wi th a ne w gen e r a t i o n o f G e n Z a nd Mi l l e nni al f ashi o n c o nsume rs wanti ng so me thi ng d iffe r e nt , e s t a b l i s he d b r a nd s f ai l to de l i ve r.

Th es e c o ns um e r s wa nt t o b e p a rt o f the c o nve rsati o n, share the i r pe rspe c ti ve , an d h a v e a r a ng e o f s e l f - e xp r e s si o n ve hi c l e s. T he y are l o o ki ng at te c hno l o gi e s th at he l p c r e a t e v i r t ua l g a r m e nts that c an be wo rn o n so c i al me di a and fash i o n e xp e r i e nc e s t ha t wo ul d o nl y be se e n i n the gami ng wo rl d.

Th e p ul l f o r m a ny i s t ha t t he vi rtual wo rl d o f f e rs i de nti ty and strate gy and co n ta i ns na r r a t i v e s a nd s t o r y t e l l i ng wi th mul ti pl e o utc o me s.

I t's no t j us t g a m e r s l o o k i ng f o r ne w e xpe ri e nc e s but f ashi o n advo c ate s lo o k i ng t o i nt e r a c t wi t h f a s hi o n i n a c o mpl e te l y ne w way.

Th is e d i t i o n, hi g hl i g ht s c o m pani e s wo rki ng i n thi s spac e , tho se who have p ar tne r e d up wi t h t he d e ni m i ndustry to re vo l uti o ni z e ho w pro duc ts are se en , p ur c ha s e d a nd hi g hl i g h ti ng o the rs wo rki ng wi th mai nstre am f ashi o n p r o duc t s .

140

Staying Connected - Apps Di g i t a l l y enabled pr o ductiv ity ga ins to a cce le ra te the F ou r t h I n d u s trial Rev o lutio n As th e p an d emic c o nt i nue s t o p r e v e nt us f ro m trave l l i ng, c o nne c ti ng and sou r ci n g in p er so n, s o m e o f t he l e a d i ng d eni m mi l l s and manuf ac ture rs have d eve l o p e d th ei r a p p s a l l o wi ng t he m t o c o nne c t di re c tl y wi th the i r c usto me rs in a w h o l e n e w wa y .

C ALIK D EN I M - La unc he d i n M a y 2 0 1 9 .

Ca lik 's mo b ile App ha s he l p e d t he c o m p a n y to sho w the i r l ate st c o l l e c ti o ns an d sh ar e th e ir de ni m t r e nd s . T he i r t wo ne w se c ti o ns f o r 2021 are the i r C al i k Den i m Ap p B lo g a nd N e w t e c hno l o g i e s & I n no vati o ns. T he App share s so me o f th e m o st cr itical i s s ue s f o r t he d e ni m i nd u stry and publ i shi ng c o ntri buti o ns fr om in d u str y p r o m i ne nt e d i t o r s a nd i nf l ue nc e rs.

Down lo ad fr o m th e A p p s t o r e C AD ICA - L ab el ling & P a c k a g i ng - I t a l y .

Ca d ica can n o w g e t i n t o uc h wi t h i t s c l i e nt s mo re e asi l y. T he c o mpany has im p r o v ed its We b s ho p B 2 B f o r c us t o m e r s wi th addi ti o nal se rvi c e s, i nc l udi ng th e C ad i ca Ap p co l l e c t i o n t hr o ug h whi c h c usto me rs c an bro wse the c o mpany' s la test co l lecti o n , e x p l o r e i t s l a b e l l i ng a nd pac kagi ng o pti o ns, o rde r sampl e s, ch at w i th r ep r e se nt a t i v e s a nd wa t c h we b i n ar e xpl anati o ns o n mate ri al s and tech n i cs th e y u se i n t he i r p r o d uc t s .

ORTA - h av e l au n c he d t he O r t a B l u g l o s s a ry, whi c h i s me ant to he l p share O r ta's d e n i m man uf a c t ur i ng k no w- ho w o n de ni m and sustai nabi l i ty. T he App lets d esign e r s and c o ns um e r s a s s e s s t he i m po rtanc e o f the i r de c i si o ns i n d efin i n g th e f u tu r e o f t he e nv i r o nm e nt .

As th e f ash io n an d d e ni m t r a d e g o e s v i r t ua l i n to day’ s c hal l e ngi ng ti me s, O R TA h as also d e s i g ne d i t s H E RE 4 G O O D c ol l e c ti o n wi th an i nte rac ti ve , collab o r ati v e “k it” p a c k e d wi t h t he i nf o r m ati o n and to o l s to i nte rac t wi th O R TA ’ s eco - in n o v a t i o n a d v a nc e m e nt s a nd “bui l t to l ast” vi si o n.

Desi gn e d to e n ga g e O RT A ’ s d e ni m b r a nd partne rs wi th the e c o -smart con cep ts, th e k i t i s d i g i t a l l y i nt e g r a t e d f o r a se aml e ss o nl i ne and o f f l i ne exp er i en ce th at d e l i v e r s a he i g ht e ne d s e ns e o f to uc h—e mo ti o nal , so c i al an d p h ysi cal— in t o d a y ’ s e xt r a o r d i na r y b usi ne ss c l i mate and c o ntac tl e ss socia l i n te r actio n s . T he k i t a l s o i nt r o d uc e s ORT A’ s ne w me mbe rs-o nl y web si te, w h e r e p a r t ne r s c a n a c c e s s i ns p i r ati o nal tre nds, i nno vati o n i nsi ghts, en vir o n men tal i m p a c t a s s e s s m e nt a nd hi g h-de f i ni ti o n vi sual asse ts f o r the H ER E4 GO O D co lle c t i o n.

R ETRA CED P L UGIN , Boyish Jean s ed u c a t e s c o ns um e r s a b o ut a pro duc t' s j o urne y, the pro duc ti o n p r oce sses n ee d ed t o c r e a t e e a c h i t e m , a nd e nvi ro nme ntal i mpl i c ati o ns f o r al l p r od u cts map p e d o ut o n t he p l a t f o r m . B o yi sh f o unde r and c re ati ve di re c to r Jor d an No d ar se a i m t o ha v e t he l a b e l ' s e nt i re suppl y c hai n mappe d o ut im mi n e n tl y , b u t ha s s a i d t ha t d o i ng s o t a k e s si gni f i c ant ti me and e f f o rt.

141

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Staying Connected Denim

T r u ck e r J a ck et | Levi ’s® Inn o v atio n i s i n L e v i ' s ® D N A . T he y we r e the f i rst to c re ate the bl ue j e an and, 150 ye ars l ater, the y w er e th e f i r s t t o l a unc h a p r o d uc t wi th Jac quard by Go o gl e . T he ne w L e vi ' s® T ruc ke r Ja ck e t i n co r p o r a t e s t he l a t e s t J a c q ua r d te c hno l o gy wi th o ne o f the mo st i c o ni c styl e s i n fash i o n h isto r y . A nd j us t l i k e d e ni m , J a cquard e xpe ri e nc e s ge t be tte r o ve r ti me wi th o ngo in g r e leases o f n e w J a c q ua r d a b i l i t i e s a nd fe ature s.

It 's ev er yth i n g y o u ne e d a nd no t hi ng y o u do n' t.

B u ild in g o n th e L e v i ' s ® C o m m ut e r ™ T r uc ke r Jac ke t wi th Jac quard, de si gne d f o r c yc l i sts, th is ne x t- ge n e r atio n v e r s i o n ha s b e e n d e s i gne d f ro m the gro und up to be he l pf ul i n yo ur e ve ryday li fe. With Jacq ua r d t e c hno l o g y , L e v i ' s ® T ruc ke r Jac ke t l e ts yo u ac c e ss di gi tal se rvi c e s ri ght fr o m y o u r cu ff , whe r e v e r y o u g o . G e t update s abo ut yo ur day, take a re mo te se l f i e , www.ata p.go o gl e .c o m /j ac q uard /p ro d uc ts /l e v i -t r u c k e r /

I N T E RA C T I V E C U F F

142

JAC QUARD T AG

L e vi Tru cker Jacket

143

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Digital Fashion - Denim S O O R TY P A K IS TA N F o und e d i n 1 9 8 3 , S o o rty i s o ne o f Paki stan' s l arge st and mo st sustai nable v e r t i c a l l y i nt e g r a te d de ni m c o mpany. T he y have the i r de si gn an d d e v e l o p m e nt s t udi o s thro ugh to o pe n-e nd spi nni ng mi l l wi th a re c yc lin g p l a nt . F ur t he r e x pansi o n wi l l i nc l ude the addi ti o n o f the i r spi nnin g, d e ni m a nd g a r m e nt di vi si o ns.

M o s t r e c e nt l y , So o rty has ste ppe d i nto the di gi tal wo rl d. B e l i e v in g i n t he s t r e ng t h to me rge te c hno l o gy, wi th re spo nsi bl e de si gn a n d m a nuf a c t ur i ng , So o rty i ntro duc e d C radl e -to -C radl e C e rti f i e d™ f abrics i nt o t he i r S S 2 0 20 range i n c o l l abo rati o n wi th T he Fabri c ant, an A m s t e r d a m b a s e d di gi tal f ashi o n ho use .

TH E F A B R IC A N T ai ms to sho w the wo rl d that c l o thi ng do e s no t have to b e p hy s i c a l t o e x i st, e spe c i al l y f o r tho se who purc hase f ashi o n to w ear o nc e o n s o c i a l me di a. T he Fabri c ant c an c re ate a di gi tal o utf i t to be wo r n i ns t e a d o f di sc ardi ng o r re turni ng a re al pro duc t af te r o ne we ar.

S o o r t y X T he F a b ri c ant On T he Wo rl d' s Fi rst D i gi tal D e ni m Garme nt ht t p s : / / www. t he f abri c ant.c o m/

P O S ITIV E F IB E R S T he f i r s t d i g i t a l f ashi o n Po p up sho p i nc l ude s a c o l l e c ti o n o f uni qu e d i g i t a l d e s i g ns i nspi re d by the de e p bl ue o c e an. T he di gi tal de ni m f abric c o m e s i n 5 0 s ha de s o f bl ue . Po si ti ve Fi be rs de si gne rs are the ri s in g s t a r s o f t he f ut ure so watc h o ut f o r the m. T he f uture o f f ashi o n sta rts t o d a y - 1 s t F e b r uary 2021 T hi s i s t he wo r l d 's f i rst D i gi tal Fashi o n Po p-Up S ho p, avai l abl e to brin g j o y i n t i m e s o f L oc kdo wn. We are at ho me , and we want to po st pho tos, b ut s we a t p a nt s do n' t c ut i t muc h l o nge r. A l o c kdo wn do e s no t have to m e a n y o ur s e ns e o f styl e i s l o c ke d. ​N E W we e k l y a r r i val s are avai l abl e . ht t p s : / / www. p o s i ti ve f i be rs.c o m/sho p

I f y o u wo ul d l i k e to l e arn ho w to de si gn di gi tal de ni m, d i s c o v e r C L O H E RE 144

IMAGE: POSITIVE FIBERS | BLUE CORAL | 145 LIMITED EDITION. EXCLUSIVELY DESIGNED BY MARÍA RUANO FOR POSITIVE FIBERS®

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Im age: The Fabrica nt

146

T HE F AB R IC AN T X SOORT Y D ENIM T H E W O R L DS FI R S T DIGITAL DEN IM GARME NT

Digital Commerce Experiences

PAN G AI A D i gital Sto r y t e l l i ng E v o l v e s : E c o - I nno vato rs Pangai a Push T he Enve l o pe Fo r Onl i ne I mmer sio n Th e e n d o f 2 0 2 0 , s a w P a ng a i a unv e i l the i r l ate st c o l l abo rati o n wi th L o ndo n C o l l e ge o f Fash i o n 's f u tu r e - g a z i ng F a s hi o n I nno v a ti o n Age nc y ( FIA) and vi rtual i mme rsi ve e -c o mme rc e sp e cialists, Ana m XR ( a n XR- f o c us e d c o mpany at the i nte rse c ti o n o f gami ng, arc hi te c ture an d cin e mati c q ua l i t y v i s ua l d e s i g n) 1 . T he tri o c re ate d an i mme rsi ve o nl i ne e xpe ri e nc e th at lau n ch e d t he i r F L W RD O W N ™ j a c k e t i n a ne w and e xc i ti ng way.

U si n g a co mbi na t i o n o f 3 D m o d e l l i ng , ani mati o n & re nde ri ng appl i c ati o ns pl us dynami c clo th si mu lat i o n s o f t wa r e b ui l t i nt o a gami ng e ngi ne ( Unre al ) , ' vi si to rs' e nte r a vi rtual sce n e scap e m o d e l l e d o n A nt a r c t i c a , i nc l udi ng the so und o f c runc hi ng sno w unde r the i r fee t.

A co l o u r syst e m g ui d e s e xp l o r e r s t hr o ugh the sc e ne to e ac h vi rtual garme nt, whe re the y can l ear n ab o ut e a c h a s p e c t o f t he p ro duc t. Mo vi ng the c urso rs sho wc ase s pano rami c v i ew s o f th e l a nd s c a p e a s f a r a s t he d i gi tal e ye c an se e . T he use r c an take the i r ti me and ch o se th e ir d i r e c t i o n f o r e xp l o r a t i o n. The pl atf o rm al l o ws the use r to purc hase a pro duc t at an y p o i n t d ur i ng t he j o ur ne y o r l o g o ut mo re i nf o rme d. It' s c l e ar that i mme rsi ve ex p er i en ces l i k e t hi s k e e p a us e r e ng age d and l o gge d i n f o r l o nge r, i t wi l l be i nte re sti ng to se e if th ese e x p e r i e nc e s i nc r e a s e s al e s.

Acco r d in g to F o r b e s , f a s hi o n e - t a i l l o o ks to i nc re ase by 35% -55% o f to tal sal e s by ne xt y ear , an d gam i ng wo r l d s wi l l b e c o m e a so c i al me di a no rm.

• W a t c h P a ng a i a ' s V R e x p e r ie nc e i n the antarc ti c HERE w ww. y o ut ub e . c o m / wa t c h? v =x7o NJ_ xl gJU

• D i s c o v e r t he e x p e r i e nc e y o urse l f HERE w ww.t he p a ng a i a v i r t ua l e x p eri e nc e .c o m/e xpe ri e nc e

w ww. t he p a ng a i a . c o m

[1] Fo rbe s - Re ad Kate B aro ns pi e c e f o r f o rbe s He r e W e ha v e f e a t ur e d Pangai a to hi ghl i ght di gi tal c o mme rc e e xpe ri e nc es.

T he y c urre ntl y do no t pro duc e pro duc ts made f ro m de ni m.

147

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Digital & Traceable Fashion F IB R E TR A CE F i b r e T r a c e gi ve s brands 20/20 vi si o n o f the i r suppl y c hai n at every step f r o m r a w f i bre to sto re . T he y have i nve nte d a ro bust trac ki ng a n d tracin g s y s t e m , t h at o f f e rs an i nde struc ti bl e te c hno l o gy appl i c abl e to an y fibre a nd b ui l d s trust wi th c o nsume rs thro ugh a re al -ti me trac e ability app.

T he i r t r a ce r pi gme nt i s adde d at the gi n, sc anne d and trac ked at every s t a g e o f the suppl y c hai n. T he l umi nanc e trac i ng pi gme nt i s food safe a nd r e m a i ns wi thi n the f i bre e ve n at the te xti l e re c yc l i ng sta ge. ht t p s : / / ww w.f i bre trac e .i o /

TE X TIL E G ENESI S™ L a t e 2 0 2 0, L e nz i ng, Arme dAnge l s and wo o l to ps pro duc e r Sch n eider G r o up – j oi ne d hands wi th T e xti l e Ge ne si s™ to c re ate an unpreceden ted l e v e l o f t rac e abi l i ty. T he f i bre -to -re tai l trac e abi l i ty pi l o ts covered 45 g a r m e nt s tyl e s, e ac h c o ntai ni ng L ENZING™ EC OVERO™ spe c i ality viscose f i b r e s o r AUT HENT IC O® o rgani c wo o l , f ro m suppl y c hai ns span n in g six c o unt r i e s .

U s i ng t he i nno vati ve Fi be rc o i n™ te c hno l o gy o f the T e xti leGen esis™ p l a t f o r m , L e nz i ng, Arme dAnge l s, and S c hne i de r c o ul d i ssu e digital b l o c k c ha i n ' asse ts' ( o r to ke ns) i n di re c t pro po rti o n to the ph y sical s hi p m e nt s o f L ENZING™ EC OVERO™ and Authe nti c o ® f i bre s. T hese digital t o k e ns p ro vi de a uni que ' f i nge rpri nt' and authe nti c ati o n m ech an ism, p r e v e nt i ng adul te rati o n and pro vi di ng a se c ure , di gi tal c hai n-of-cu stody a c r o s s t he e nti re te xti l e val ue c hai n. ht t p s : / / t exti l e ge ne si s.c o m/

HE L PING P EOP L E MA KE BE TTER C HOI CES WHE N THEY PUR C HA SE C L OTHING I N THE R EAL WORLD 148

O R ITA IN T he O r i t ai n me tho d trac e s ac tual pro duc ts bac k to the i r tru e origin us i ng a d v anc e d sc i e nc e .

S t a r t i ng wi th c o l l e c ti ng pro duc t sampl e s o n-si te , anal ysi ng th em an d f i ng e r p r i nti ng the m, Ori tai n the n sto re s that data i n the i r database, r e a d y f o r f i bre s, mate ri al s and f i ni she d pro duc ts to be audi t ed again st ' s us p e c t ' sampl e s to c he c k the i r authe nti c i ty.

T he O r i t a in me tho d i s ro bust and re assure s a brand and c o nsu mer th at t he p r o d uc t i s what i t says i t i s. ht t p s : / / o ri tai n.c o m/i ndustri e s/f i bre / O the r trac ea b i l i t y p l a t f o r m s a r e e m e r g i n g o n t h e m a r k e t . T h i s i s j u s t a sna pshot o f a f e w th a t a r e l e a d i n g t h e w a y t o w a r d s a t r a n s p a r e n t f u t u r e .

I ma ge: T oby

149

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

D e n i m a r o u nd t he world.

P u' e rh te a i s p a c k a g e d d i f f e r e n t l y f r o m o t h e r t e a s . It i s m o s t l y p r e s s e d int o ca kes or b ri c k s . A f te r p re ss i n g , s e v e n c a k e s a r e w r a p p e d t o g e t h e r w i t h b a m b o o s h oot lea ves int o a s tac k , c al l e d ton g . In t h e o l d d a y s , t h e p u r p o s e o f t h i s t y p e o f p a c k a g i n g wa s f or ea sy t ra nsport IM AG E : T U U L AN D BRU N O M OR AN D I | N a t i o n a l G eogra phic

150

EACH YEAR AN ESTIMATED 25 BILLION UNUSED GARMENTS ARE SENT TO LANDFILLS OR INCINERATED, MOST ARE MADE WITH PETROLEUM-BASED SYNTHETIC ELASTOMERS AND THESE FIBRES CAN TAKE UP TO HUNDREDS OF YEARS TO DECOMPOSE. THROUGH THE DEVELOPMENT OF COREVA™ CANDIANI IS WORKING TOWARDS REDUCING THIS FIGURE. CANDIANI

151

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

R E S OUR SES & SOU RCIN G

PACKAGING

152

We l iv e o n a p l a ne t wi t h f i ni t e r e s o urc e s whe re pac kagi ng pl ays a vi tal ro l e i n the gl o bal f ash io n and t e xt i l e e c o s y s t e m a s i t pro te c ts pro duc ts as the y trave l al o ng the val ue c hai n.

Y e t t hi s p a c k a g i ng i sn’ t pro te c ti ng o ur pl ane t.

No w i s the t i m e t o r e t hi nk o ur a ppro ac h and to ge the r e mbrac e i nno vati ve mate ri als an d p ack a g i ng s y s t e m s t ha t a r e re ne wabl e , re usabl e , c o mpo stabl e , re c yc l abl e and bi o de gradabl e .

To d ay w e ha v e m o r e c ho i c e s i n p a ckagi ng mate ri al s than e ve r be f o re , and as e duc ated cu sto me r s i nc r e a s i ng l y p r e s s ur e b rands f o r re spo nsi bl y made pro duc ts thi s to o mus t e x te n d to t he p a c k a g i ng t he y t r a v e l i n and ho w i t' s f urthe r re use d o r di spo se d o f . Fro m p o ly b ags t o s ho e b o x e s , e - c o m m e r c e mai l e rs, vo i d-f i l l and l abe l l i ng to name j ust a f e w , th e p ack ag i ng i s c o m p l e x a nd ne c e s s i tate s a ho l i sti c unde rstandi ng whe n maki ng c ho i c es th at ad d r e s s t he p a c k a g i ng l i f e c y c l e and who take s o wne rshi p o nc e i ts purpo se i s se rve d.

Th r o u gh inno v a t i o n, c l e a n t e c hno l o gy and gre e n c he mi stry, ne w mate ri al s are e me rgi ng th at cr eate v a l ue f r o m wa s t e s t r e a m s and re ne wabl e re so urc e s, f ro m al gae to c hi to san , t e x t i l e o f f c ut s, waste wo o l and myc e l i um.

To ge th e r a s we r e d i r e c t o ur c ho i c e s away f ro m f o ssi l -f ue l s we must be c o nsc i o us o f o u r gr o w i n g d e p e nd e nc e o n c o nv e nt i o n al re pl ac e me nts suc h as tre e -base d pul p. Ide nti f yi n g al ter n ativ e r e ne wa b l e s o ur c e s t ha t uti l i se waste stre ams and the agri c ul tural re si du e i s i mp o r ta nt , a s t hi s wi l l t a k e t he p re ssure o f f tre e -base d mate ri al s whi c h i s o ne o f th e cr i tical r ec o m m e nd a t i o ns p r o p o s e d by e nvi ro nme ntal no n-pro f i t o rgani sati o n C ano py as a N ex t Ge ne r a t i o n s o l ut i o n t o t he g ro wi ng vi rgi n wo o d de mand and the pro te c ti o n o f o u r wo r l d ’ s f o re sts f o r the f uture .

New syste m s a r e b e i ng i nt r o d uc e d aro und l ast-mi l e pac kagi ng, l i ke re use se rvi ce co mp an ies s uc h a s Re P a c k b y s t r e a ml i ni ng and si mpl i f yi ng re usabl e pac kagi ng that th e cu sto me r c a n r e t ur n b y p o s t o r t o a c o nve ni e nt l o c ati o n - whi c h i s f urthe r re c yc l e d when i ts time o f r e us e c o m e s t o a n e nd. C hange i s he re and i t’ s happe ni ng as ke y pl aye rs i n th e i n dus t r y i m p l e m e nt t he i r c o m mi tme nts to phasi ng o ut c o nve nti o nal pl asti c and min i mi se o v e r a l l p a c k a g i ng . A s we l l as pi l o t pro j e c ts and sc he me s be i ng i ni ti ate d aro und th e gl o b e t o a d d r e s s t he ub i q ui t o u s pro bl e m o f the si ngl e -use l o w-de nsi ty po l ye the n e po l ybag.

I t i s ti me fo r a n a l l - e m b r a c i ng i nd us t ry transi ti o n to wards re spo nsi bl e pac kagi ng, al i gni ng m a t e r i a l s wi t h s y s te ms and c o nsi de ri ng the f o l l o wi ng: 1 . Mi ni mi se pac kagi ng 2 . I nc r e a s e r e c y c le d c o nte nt i n pac kagi ng mate ri al s 3 . C ho o s e r e s p o ns i bl y pro duc e d re ne wabl e mate ri al s 4 . Clear l y c o m m uni c a t e r e s p o ns i bl e di spo sal o r re use i nf o rmati o n o n the pac kagi ng 5 . R e fr am e wa s t e s t r e a m s a nd a gri c ul tural re si due as val uabl e re so urc e s f o r ne w p ac kagi ng mate ri al s

153

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

P L A S T I C - F RE E P ACK AG ING INNOVATIONS FROM AROUND THE WORLD CLIC

K TO LEA RN

MO RE

WOOLA

VELA

FANG THAI FACTORY LTD

Estonia

USA

Thailand

Estonian sustainable packaging start-up Woola has developed an alternative solution to petroleum-based plastic bubble wrap. Named Bubble Wool, Woola’s protective packaging replacement takes the waste of one industry – leftover sheep wool – and uses it to solve the waste problem of another – e-commerce packaging. With most online stores using plastic bubble wrap to ship fragile items, this is adding to the global plastic pollution problem. Sheep wool is a globally unused resource with more than 200 000 tonnes of wool thrown away in Europe every year, which makes it a promising waste stream to utilise. Woola has created a solution out of waste wool that replaces bubble wrap perfectly since wool is protective, lightweight and compostable. Woola has also created a wool-based envelope.

Vela paper bags are an initiative by Seaman Paper Company offering a lightweight paper alternative to plastic polybags. Vela paper bags are FSC certified, durable, recyclable and transparent for visual inspections.

Vela is a brand motivated by positive environmental impact; they believe sustainable and recyclable paper packaging solutions can replace and prevent poly bags from polluting our planet. The Vela paper bag was invented in the garment district of Carpi, Italy. The name 'Vela' translates to 'sail' in Italian, which represents the relationship between humans and nature working together. Paper is one of the most recycled packaging materials, reaching record highs in North America and Europe in 2019.

In support of these trends, Vela products are made with materials from FSC certified forests, recycled material or controlled wood and are widely recyclable.

Located in Lampang Province in Thailand, Fang Thai Factory Ltd was founded by Jaruwan Khammuang as a social enterprise to bring an additional source of income to the local farmers by using their agricultural waste as a resource in the production of packaging. Rice straw is a by-product of farming rice crop, the waste straw previously was burnt for disposal causing harmful local air pollution and releasing greenhouse gas emissions. Fang Thai uses clean technology to convert the rice straw into paper for various end uses such as swing tags and secondary packaging.

The rice straw paper is biodegradable and has a non-chemical coating made from rice starch that makes the paper packaging water, oil and grease resistant.

www.woola.io

www.vela.eco/

fangthaifactory@gmail.com

154

R EU S ABLE P ACK AG ING INNOVATIONS FROM AROUND THE WO RL D

ORIGINAL REPACK

LIMELOOP

USA

Finland

USA

Returnity is a US-based start-up providing reusable and recyclable shipping packaging for both B2C and B2B. The shipping bags and boxes are custom-designed, durable, lightweight, reusable and made from recyclable materials. The packaging is guaranteed for 40 multiple uses and once returned, the packaging materials can be further recycled. Returnity’s mission is to reduce cardboard packaging waste, replace plastic polybag mailers, corrugated cardboard boxes and single-use packaging by moving towards a circular economy model.

Brands create custom-designed reusable bags or boxes with Returnity engineers that can fold when returned empty, saving on cost and resources. Returnity’s reusable packaging service provides a unique experience to online customers of e-commerce and eliminates packaging waste from polluting our environment.

RePack is pioneering circularity in e-commerce shipping packaging by providing reuse as a service. RePack have created packaging products that are reusable and returnable with built-in circular logistics for e-commerce to replace single-use packaging.

RePack bags themselves are made from durable and recycled materials and offer an entirely new customer experience with a sustainable twist that lasts a minimum of 20 cycles.

Reused RePack product materials can be recycled at their end-of-life, with RePack also working on various upcycling projects including their collaboration with Aalto International to design upcycled RePack products that are available in Selfridges as a part of the Planet Earth initiative. Once the customer has received their parcel in a RePack bag, the customer simply folds and drops the empty bag to a post-box, anywhere in the world. It is returned to RePack to be checked, cleaned and redistributed for reuse.

Limeloop is an e-commerce shipping platform that combines data-driven IOT logistics with reusable shipping packaging to provide retailers with visibility, security, and predictive analytics from the point-of-order to return while making a positive environmental and economic impact. Limeloop’s durable and lightweight reusable zippered packaging pouches are made of post-consumer upcycled materials including billboard vinyl and recycled cotton. Businesses rent the pouches to ship packages to their customers, and once received the customer removes the product and places the included prepaid return shipping label into a plastic sleeve on the packaging’s exterior.

The empty pouch can then be placed in the mailbox for pick up to be returned to the businesses centre of distribution. Limeloop is working to scale up their reusable packaging and data-driven shipping system.

www.returnity.co/

www.repack.com

www.thelimeloop.com

RETURNITY

155

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

PL ANTA BLE P ACKAG I N G I t’ s m o r e i m p o r t a nt t ha n e v er to make c ho i c e s f o r yo ur brand that be ne f i t th e e nv i r o nm e nt ; t hi s s us t a i n abl e e c o -pac kagi ng i s o ne o f the be st ways to d o t ha t !

Th i s z e r o - wa s t e p l a nt a b l e p ac kagi ng i s made wi th po st-c o nsume r mate ri al s e mbe d d e d wi t h s e e d s s o i t wi l l sho w yo ur e c o -c o mmi tme nt and pro mo te co r p o r a t e s us t a i na b i l i t y . S i nc e the pac kagi ng c an be pl ante d i nste ad o f ge tt i ng t hr o wn a wa y , t he r e c i pi e nt wi l l gro w so me thi ng the y c an e nj o y, l i ke f lo w e r s , he r b s , o r v e g g i e s . W hat a f re sh way to make a gre e n c ho i c e whi l e ad di ng v a l ue t o y o ur p r o d uc ts!

I n s t e a d o f b r a nd s wo r r y i ng i f the i r pac kagi ng wi l l be c o mpo stabl e at ho me o r u nd e r c e r t a i n i nd us t r i a l c o ndi ti o ns; whe the r a c usto me r wi l l take i t f o r r e c y c l i ng o r r e t ur n i t us ing a re turns syste m; thi s o pti o n al l o ws e ve ry h o u s e ho l d t o r e c e i v e t he i r pro duc ts, pl us e nj o y the e xpe ri e nc e o f gro wi ng f lo w e r s o r he r b s i n t he i r g a r de n ri ght f ro m the pac kagi ng yo u c ho se to use .

Yo u c a n d o a l l k i nd s o f c r e a t i ve thi ngs wi th se e d pape r f ro m swi ng ti c ke ts, to j e a ns p o c k e t l a b e l l i ng , pac kagi ng, busi ne ss c ards thro ugh to e ve nt p r o m o t i o n. N o m a t t e r wha t yo u use , thi s e c o -gre e n pac kagi ng i s sure to mak e a g r e a t i m p r e s s i o n o n a nyo ne that re c e i ve s i t.

156

P LANT ABLE PACKAGING FROM AROUND THE WO RL D

PAPER GO AROUND

BOTANICAL PPERWORKS

EARTHY GOODS

Australia

Canada

USA

Paper-Go-Round is the place to get all your seeded paper needs within Australia. All our paper is handmade here in Australia from recycled office paper, along with printer & papermill offcuts. We use quality seeds from Aussie farms. We have an exceptional range of papers, extensive manufacturing capacity (here in Melbourne) and have been operating for over 25 years.

Botanical paperworks is a worldleading producer of seed paper.

A special eco-friendly paper embedded with seeds that grow into flowers, herbs or vegetables when planted and leave no waste behind. They have items ranging from hangtags through to shredded recycled packaging paper and boxes.

Their Plantable Box Filler is an ecofriendly, plantable shred made with seed paper offcuts reducing waste further.

As well as producing commercial products Botanical paperworks also produce personal items such as a sustainable alternative to confetti, wedding favours and much more.

Earthy goods produce a wide range of commercial products all containing seeds.

Their folded seed paper hang tags are the perfect way to promote any earth-friendly product. The hangtags can be custom printed with your brands' artwork in full colour on one or both sides, using earth-friendly water-soluble inks that won't damage the seeds to ensure maximum germination when planted. Their seed paper is made by hand from 100% postconsumer recycled material and embedded with a special mixture of wildflower seeds.

www.pa pergo ro und . c o m . au

w w w .b o t a n i c a l p a p e r w o r k s . c o m /

www.earthlygoods.com

157

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

R e s pons ib l e Pac k ag in g Moveme nt The #ReshapePackaging movement led by clothing brand prAna aims to unite the industry, brands and wider community on a mission towards eliminating harmful materials that overflow our landfills and to create an industry-wide shift towards responsible packaging solutions. The movement founded by prAna is in partnership with non-profit organisations Canopy and 5 Gyres. The movement is about community, collaboration, commitment and conversations as together we work towards a common goal of eliminating plastic and virginforest-fibre packaging. Joining the movement requires brands to create their own goals around responsible packaging, and then as part of the community, they will have access to Responsible Packaging Guides, networking spaces, roundtable discussions, webinars and support from prAna in achieving these packaging goals.

Join brands such as Outerknown, Mara Hoffman, Spell, tentree and Vestiare Collective alongside prAna in building this responsible packaging movement.

158

Learn about how you can join the Responsible Packaging Movement here : https://www.prana.com/sustainability/environmental-impact/responsiblepackaging-movement.html

Im ag e C re di t - S i l as B ai sc h

# Res hap e Pack a g i n g

EN D OF LI FE PACKAGING PRO CESSE S 1 0 1 U n d e rst a n ding end-of-life c a p a b i l i t i e s w ill assist in choosing t h e p a c k a g ing that is right for your b u si n e ss, c ustom ers & the planet

Reus ab le R eu sab l e an d r e t ur na b l e p a c k a g i ng i s a w ay to r e d uc e s i ng l e - us e m a t e r i a l s and min i mi se w a s t e b y p r o v i d i ng c us t o m e rs w ith th e p ack a g i ng t he y c a n r e t ur n b y po st o r to a co n v e ni e nt l o c a t i o n t o t he n b e u se d agai n . M ad e f r o m d ur a b l e m a t e r i a l that can b e r e cy cl e d a t i t s e nd - o f - l i f e , r e usabl e p ack agi n g is m o s t c o m m o nl y e m p l oye d i n d el iv e r in g a p r o d uc t b e t we e n D C to co n su mer , an d b a c k .

Rec yc lab le R ecyclab le p a c k a g i ng c a n b e b r o k e n do wn e ith e r me cha ni c a l l y o r c he m i c a l l y and r e - fo r med i nt o a ne w p r o d uc t f o r use .

R ecyclin g r e d uc e s t he num b e r o f p a c k agi ng mater i als go i ng t o l a nd f i l l o r be i ng i n ci n e r ated , b y r e c a p t ur i ng t he m a t e ri al s an d th ei r v alue - m o s t c o m m o nl y p a p e r and co n v en tio n al p l a s t i c - a nd r e p r o c e s si ng th em so th e y c a n b e us e d a g a i n. Re c y c l i ng cap ab i lities a nd i nf r a s t r uc t ur e v a r y bo th r e gio n ally an d g l o b a l l y , c r e a t i ng a c o mpl e x sy ste m. Acco r d i ng t o o r g a ni s a t i o n C l e a n Up Au str alia, i n t he y e a r t o J une 2 0 1 8 A us t ral i a u se d o v er 5 m i l l i o n t o nne s o f p a c k a g i ng, w ith o n ly h alf r e c y c l e d a t i t s e nd - o f - l i f e .

Ho me Co m postabl e H o me co mp o s t a b l e p a c k a g i ng c a n be mad e f r o m b i o - b a s e d o r f o s s i l f ue l - b ase d mater i als an d wi l l b r e a k d o wn i nt o C O2, w ater an d b io m a s s b y s o i l m i c r o o r g a ni sms i n a r e si d en t i a l c o m p o s t i ng b i n a l o ng si de f o o d an d ga r d e n wa s t e wi t ho ut ha r m to w o r ms o r o t he r l i v i ng o r g a ni s m s . T he r ate o f b io de g r a d a t i o n wi l l d e p e nd o n th e en v i r o n m e nt a nd he a l t h c o nd i t i o ns o f th e co mp o s t . P a c k a g i ng c l a i m i ng h o me co mp o stab i lit y m us t m e e t t he A us t r al i an Stan d ar d AS 5810-2010 (or r egi o n e q u i v al en t) wi t h p l a s t i c m a t e r i a l d e g r adi ng a mi n i mu m o f 9 0 % wi t hi n 1 8 0 d a y s , l e avi ng n o to x ic r e si d ue .

In du s t r ial Compos t able Industri al c o mpo stabl e pac kagi ng material c an be made f ro m bi o -base d o r f o ssi l fu elbase d mate ri al s. C o mme rc i al c o mpo stable packaging requires the specific environment and hi ghe r te mpe rature s ac hi e ve d in c o mme rc i al l arge -sc al e c o mpo sts to bre akdo wn and bi o de grade . Industrial c o mpo sts ac c e l e rate bi o de gradation thro ugh me c hani c al pro c e sse s f o r mixin g, turni ng and ae rati o n.

B iode g rada ble B i o de gradabl e pac kagi ng re f e rs to th e abi l i ty o f the mate ri al to de c o mpo se in th e natural e nvi ro nme nt by mi c ro o rganisms.

Mate ri al s wi l l e ve ntual l y bi o de grade ho we ve r the ti me i t take s f o r a material to bre akdo wn wi l l de pe nd and vary on the mate ri al s c o mpo si ti o n, as we ll as the e nvi ro nme nts l o c ati o n, te mpe ratu re and o xyge n l e ve l s. No t al l bi o -based pl asti c s are bi o de gradabl e , whi l st some c o nve nti o nal f o ssi l -f ue l -base d pl asti cs are bi o de gradabl e due to a c he mi c al addi tive.

D is s olva ble D i sso l vabl e pl asti c pac kagi ng most c o mmo nl y use d to c o ntai n di shwa sh er c apsul e s i s made f ro m PVA, a synthe ti c fossil f ue l -base d po l yme r that i s wate r-so lu ble.

Mo di f i e d ve rsi o ns o f thi s hydro ph ilic po l yme r have be e n de ve l o pe d f o r the u se o f pl asti c po l ybags that di sso l ve i n boilin g wate r wi tho ut to xi c re si due s, ho w ever, the y sti l l o ri gi nate f ro m f o ssi l f ue l s an d can c ause vari o us pro bl e ms i f the y l e ak in to the e nvi ro nme nt as the y wi l l no t di ssolve i n o c e an wate r te mpe rature s.

Ox o- de g rada ble Oxo -de gradabl e re f e rs to c o nve ntion al f o ssi l -f ue l base d pl asti c s that bre akdow n whe n e xpo se d to sunl i ght UV rays du e to a c he mi c al addi ti ve i n the c o mpo si ti on of the pl asti c . Ac c o rdi ng to the Australian Pac kagi ng C o ve nant Organi sati o n oxode gradabl e pl asti c s are i nte rnati on ally ac kno wl e dge d as be i ng phase d o ut du e to the i r me ans o f de gradi ng i nto small parti c l e s, al so kno wn as mi c ro pl asti c s th at pe rsi st i n the e nvi ro nme nt.

159

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Prote c tin g ou r O c ean s O ce an s are o ur p l a ne t ’ s l i f e s up p o rt and re gul ate the gl o bal c l i mate syste m. T he y are th e w o r l d ’ s l ar g e s t e c o s y s t e m , ho m e t o n e arl y a mi l l i o n kno wn spe c i e s, c o ntai ni ng vast unta pped p o ten tial f o r s c i e nt i f i c d i s c o v e r y . Oc e ans and f i she ri e s c o nti nue to suppo rt the g lobal p o p u l atio n ’ s e c o no m i c , s o c i a l a nd e nvi ro nme ntal ne e ds. D e spi te the c ri ti c al i mpo rtan ce of co n ser v in g o c e a ns , d e c a d e s o f i r r espo nsi bl e e xpl o i tati o n have l e d to an al armi ng l e vel of d e gr ad atio n. C ur r e nt e f f o r t s t o p r o te c t ke y mari ne e nvi ro nme nts and smal l -sc al e f i sheries, an d to i n v e s t i n o c e a n s c i e nc e a r e n o t but me e ti ng the urge nt ne e d to saf e guard thi s vast, yet fr agile , r e s o ur c e . T he d r a s t i c r e duc ti o n i n human ac ti vi ty bro ught abo ut by the C OVID-19 cr i si s, w h il e r o o t e d i n t r a g e d y , i s a chanc e f o r o c e ans to re c upe rate . It i s al so an o ppo rtu n ity to ch ar t a s us t a i na b l e r e c o v e r y p a th that wi l l e nsure l i ve l i ho o ds f o r de c ade s to c o m e in h ar mo n y w i t h t he na t ur a l e nv i r o nm e nt.

Co n tin u in g o c e a n a c i d i f i c a t i o n t hr e a te ns the mari ne e nvi ro nme nt and e c o syste m se rvices Th e o ce an i s t he p l a ne t ’ s l a r g e s t c arbo n si nk, abso rbi ng aro und 23 pe r c e nt o f annual CO2 e mi ssio n s g e ne r a t e d b y hum a n a c ti vi ty and he l pi ng to mi ti gate the i mpac ts o f c l imate ch an ge . H o we v e r , t he a b s o r b e d C O 2 has c ause d se awate r to be c o me mo re ac i di c , e vi den ced b y a 2 6 p e r c e nt d r o p i n p H l e v e l s si nc e pre -i ndustri al ti me s. Oc e an ac i di f i c ati o n e ndangers co r al r e ef s a nd o t he r k e y s p e c i e s that are the base o f the mari ne f o o d c hai n, and h as n egati v e e f f e c t s o n m a r i ne e c o s y s t e m se rvi c e s, i nc l udi ng f i she ri e s and aquac ul ture , c oastal p r o tecti o n , t r a ns p o r t a t i o n a nd t o uri sm. T he mo re ac i di c the o c e an be c o me s, the l o w er its cap aci ty to a b s o r b C O 2 f r o m t he a t m o sphe re and to mo de rate c l i mate c hange . Inf o rm ation d r aw n fr o m a ne w o c e a n a c i d i f i c a t i on data po rtal sho ws an i nc re ase i n pH vari abi l i ty (u p to 1 0 – 3 0 p er c e nt i n t he p a s t f i v e y e a r s ) and i n o c e an ac i di ty. B y the e nd o f thi s c e ntury, a 100– 1 5 0 p er ce nt r i s e i n a c i d i t y i s p r o j e cte d, af f e c ti ng hal f o f al l mari ne l i f e .

160

Im a g e : F r a n c e s c o unga ro

W h i le p rot e cti on of mari ne en v i ronment s is ex pa nding , it is c r it ic a l t ha t c o ve r a g e e x t end t o ke y bi odi v er si ty ar eas Mar ine p r o tecte d a r e a s a r e v i t a l t o t he s us t ai nabl e de ve l o pme nt o f o c e ans. T he y saf e guard vuln erable sp ecies an d eco sys t e m s , c o ns e r v e b i o d i v e r s i ty, and ave rt po te nti al c o nf l i c ts amo ng use rs by de l in eatin g sp ecific al lo w ed a c t i v i t i e s . A s o f D e c e m b e r 2019, o ve r 17 pe r c e nt ( o r 24 mi l l i o n square ki l ometres) of wa ter s u n d e r na t i o na l j ur i s d i c t i o n ( 0 t o 200 nauti c al mi l e s f ro m sho re ) we re c o ve re d by protected ar eas. Co v e r age ha s i nc r e a s e d s i g ni f i c a nt l y o ve r the ye ars, mo re than do ubl i ng si nc e 2010.

Pr otecte d ar e a n e t wo r k s m us t c o nt i nue t o e xpand to i nc re ase the i r c o ve rage o f ke y bi o di ve rsi t y areas (KBA s). Th e gl o b a l m e a n p e r c e nt a g e o f e a ch mari ne KB A c o ve re d by pro te c te d are as i nc re ased from 3 0 .5 p e r cen t in 2 0 0 0 t o 4 4 . 8 p e r c e nt i n 2015 and 46.0 pe r c e nt i n 2019. Whi l e thi s re presen ts su b stan tial p r o gr e s s , m a ny KB A s ha v e o nl y parti al o r no pro te c te d are a c o ve rage . L e ast de v eloped cou n tr i es an d sma l l i s l a nd d e v e l o p i ng S t a t e s c o nti nue to l ag be hi nd at 25.4 pe r c e nt and 23.7 per cen t, r esp ecti v e ly .

S u s ta ina b le f i sh eri es ar e v i tal to t he liv eliho o ds o f c o mmunit ies in t he m o s t d is ad va nt a ge d coun tr i es Man agin g fish sto c k s s us t a i na b l y i s c r uc i a l to harne ssi ng the be ne f i ts o f f i she ri e s and aquacu ltu re to allev iate p o v ert y , hung e r a nd m a l nut r i ti o n, and to ge ne rate e c o no mi c gro wth. In re c e nt y ears, th e co n tr ib u ti o n o f s us t a i na b l e f i s he r i e s t o gl o bal GD P has ho ve re d at aro und 0.1 pe r c e nt per y ear, r eflecti n g th e i n te r p l a y o f t wo o p p o s i ng t re nds: the c o nsi ste ntl y ri si ng val ue adde d o f the f ish eries an d aq u acu ltu r e s e c t o r , a nd t he c o nt i nued de c l i ne i n the sustai nabi l i ty o f gl o bal f i sh sto cks. Th e con tr ib u ti o n o f sus t a i na b l e m a r i ne c a p t ur e f i she ri e s to GD P has be e n marke dl y hi ghe r i n small islan d d evel o p in g States i n O c e a ni a a nd i n L D C s, whe re f i shi ng ac ti vi ti e s are vi tal f o r l o c al c o mmu n ities an d i n d i gen o u s p e o p l e s . T he s ha r e o f s us t ai nabl e f i she ri e s i n the GD P o f the se gro ups o f c ou n tries aver a ged 1 .5 5 p er c e nt a nd 1 . 1 1 p e r c e nt , re spe c ti ve l y, f o r the pe ri o d 2011–2017.

S m all-sca le f isher s, l ar g e contri bu t o r s t o dev elo ping c o unt r y ec o no mies, c o n t i n u e t o be ma rginal i zed Sm all - scal e f ish ers , who a c c o unt f o r m o r e than hal f o f to tal f i she ry o utput i n de ve l o pi ng c o u n tries, con tin u e to b e am o ng t he m o s t m a r g i na l i z e d f o o d pro duc e rs. Mo re o ve r, e vi de nc e sugge sts t h at th e COV ID - 1 9 cr i si s i s a l r e a d y a f f e c t i ng t he i r l i v el i ho o ds adve rse l y, as gl o bal de mand f o r se af o o d dw in dles an d t r an sp o r tatio n r e s t r i c t i o ns p r e v e nt m a rke t ac c e ss. At the same ti me , smal l -sc al e pro duc ers fu lfil a cr it i cal r o l e i n pr o v i d i ng f o o d f o r l o c a l c o mmuni ti e s. It i s mo re i mpo rtant than e ve r f o r c o untries to su p p o r t small- sca l e f i s he r s a s k e y c o nt r i b u to rs to sustai nabl e f o o d syste ms. T hi s c an be ac hi eved by ad op ti n g sp e cific i ni t i a t i v e s t o i m p l e m e nt t he i nte rnati o nal l y agre e d Vo l untary Gui de l i ne s f o r Secu rin g Susta in ab l e Small- S c a l e F i s he r i e s i n t he C o n te xt o f Fo o d S e c uri ty and Po ve rty Eradi c ati o n.

A p a use in the assau l t on g l obal f ish st o c k s ma y no t be eno ug h t o a v er t t h e c olla p se of ce r tai n fi sher i es The p r o p o r ti o n o f f i s h s t o c k s wi t hi n b i o l o g i c al l y sustai nabl e l e ve l s de c re ase d f ro m 90.0 pe r cen t in 1 9 7 4 to 6 6 .7 p e r c e nt i n 2 0 1 5 a nd 6 5 . 8 p e r c e nt i n 2017. D e spi te thi s c o nti nue d de te ri o ration , th e r ate o f d ecl in e h a s s l o we d i n r e c e nt y e a r s. Whi l e e nc o uragi ng, thi s wi l l no t be e no ugh to preven t a med iu m- ter m co lla p s e o f c e r t a i n g l o b a l f i s h e ri e s unl e ss me asure s are mo re wi de l y ado pte d to restore stock s to b io l o gi ca l l y s us t a i na b l e l e v e l s .

In 201 7 , th e M ed i t e r r a ne a n a nd B l a c k S e a c o nti nue d to have the l o we st pe rc e ntage o f sto c ks fish ed at su stai n ab l e l ev e l s ( 3 7 . 5 p e r c e nt ) , f o l l o w e d by the S o uthe ast Pac i f i c ( 45.5 pe r c e nt) and S o uth w est Atlan ti c (4 6 .7 p e r c e nt ) . I n c o nt r a s t , t he E a s te rn C e ntral Pac i f i c , S o uthwe st Pac i f i c and No rthe ast Pacific h ad t h e h i gh e st pr o p o r t i o n ( a b o v e 8 3 p e r ce nt) . Whe re as the S o uthwe st Pac i f i c saw an i mprovemen t of 10.5 p er ce n tage p o i nt s f r o m 2 0 1 5 l e v e l s , the No rthwe st Pac i f i c and No rthwe st Atl anti c e xperien ced sign if ican t d ecl in e s , o f 1 7 . 3 a nd 1 7 . 7 p e r c e ntage po i nts, re spe c ti ve l y.

Un ited Nati ons 161

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

LIFE BELOW WATER: WHY IT MATTERS What’s the goal here?

To conserve and sustainably use the world’s ocean, seas and marine resources.

Why? Oceans are our planet’s life support and regulate the global climate system. They are the world’s largest ecosystem, home to nearly a million known species and containing vast untapped potential for scientific discovery. Oceans and fisheries continue to support the global population’s economic, social and environmental needs.

Despite the critical importance of conserving oceans, decades of irresponsible

162

exploitation have led to an alarming level of degradation. Current efforts to protect key marine environments and small-scale fisheries, and to invest in ocean science are not yet meeting the urgent need to safeguard this vast, yet fragile, resource.

The drastic reduction in human activity brought about by the COVID19 crisis, while rooted in tragedy, is a chance for oceans to recuperate. It is also an opportunity to chart a sustainable recovery path that will ensure livelihoods for decades to come in harmony with the natural environment.

Over

3 billion people depend on marine and coastal

biodiversity for their

livelihood

So what’s the problem?

The ocean absorbs around 23 per cent of annual CO2 emissions generated by human activity and helps mitigate the impacts of climate change. The ocean has also absorbed more than 90% of the excess heat in the climate system.

Ocean heat is at record levels, causing widespread marine heatwaves, threatening its rich ecosystems and killing coral reefs around the world.

Increasing levels of debris in the world’s oceans are also having a major environmental and economic impact. Every year, an estimated 5 to 12 million metric tonnes of plastic enters the ocean, costing roughly $13 billion per year – including clean-up costs and financial losses in fisheries and other industries. About 89% of plastic litter found on the ocean floor are single-use items like plastic bags.

About 80% of all tourism takes place in coastal areas. The ocean-related tourism industry grows an estimated US$ 134 billion per year and in some countries, the industry already supports over a third of the labour force.

Unless carefully managed, tourism can pose a major threat to the natural resources on which it depends, and to local culture and industry.

How is the ocean connected to our health?

The health of the ocean is intimately tied to our health. According to UNESCO, the ocean can be an ally against COVID19 – bacteria found in the depths of the ocean are used to carry out rapid testing to detect the presence of COVID-19.

And the diversity of species found in the ocean offers great promise for pharmaceuticals.

Furthermore, marine fisheries provide 57 million jobs globally and provide the primary source of protein to over 50% of the population in least developed countries.

So what can we do?

For open ocean and deep sea areas, sustainability can be achieved only through increased international cooperation to

protect vulnerable habitats. Establishing comprehensive, effective and equitably managed systems of government-protected areas should be pursued to conserve biodiversity and ensure a sustainable future for the fishing industry.

On a local level, we should make ocean-friendly choices when buying products or eating food derived from oceans and consume only what we need.

Selecting certified products is a good place to start.

We should eliminate plastic usage as much as possible and organize beach clean-ups.

Most importantly, we can spread the message about how important marine life is and why we need to protect it.

To find out more about Goal #14 and other Sustainable Development Goals visit: http://www.un.org/ sustainabledevelopment

163

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, sea and marine resources for sustainable development Before Covid-19

Ocean acidification continues to threaten marine environments and ecosystem services

Global marine key biodiversity areas covered by protected areas increased

30.5% pH

44.8%

46.0%

2015

2019

acidity

A 100–150% rise in ocean acidity is projected by 2100, affecting half of all marine life Covid-19 Implications

The drastic reduction in human activity brought about by COVID-19 may be a chance for oceans to recuperate

2000

sustainable fisheries contribute to gdp

1.55%

small island developing states in oceania

1.11%

least developed countries

10 x

the global average

97 countries signed the Agreement on Port State Measures, the first binding international agreement on illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing

Access more data and information on the indicators at https://unstats.un.org/sdgs/report/2020/ 164

TARGETS 14.1 By 20 25, pre ve nt an d si gnif ic a nt ly r e d uc e ma r ine p ollut ion o f a ll kind s, in pa rti c ul ar from l a nd-ba se d a c t ivit ie s, inc lud ing ma r ine d e b r is a n d nut rient p o l l uti on 14.2 By 20 20, su stai na bl y m a na ge a nd p r ot e c t ma r ine a nd c oa st a l ecosy st ems to avoi d s i g ni fi c a nt a d ve r se imp a c t s, inc lud ing b y st r e ngt he n i n g t heir resili enc e , a nd ta ke ac ti on f o r t he ir r e st or a t ion in or d e r t o a c hie ve healt hy and produ c ti ve oc e a ns 14.3 Minimi ze an d a ddress th e imp a c t s o f o c e a n a c id if ic a t io n, inc lud ing t hrough enha nc e d sc i e nti fi c c oo p e r a t ion a t a ll le ve ls 14.4 By 20 20, e ffe c ti vel y regul at e ha r ve st ing a nd e nd ove r f ishing, ille ga l, unrep ort ed an d unregul ated fi s hing a nd d e st r uc t ive f ishing p r a c t ic e s a nd imp lement sc i e nc e -bas e d m an a ge me nt p la ns, in or d e r t o r e st o r e f ish st o c k s in t he shortest ti m e fea si bl e , a t le a st t o le ve ls t ha t c a n p r o d uc e ma ximum sust ainab l e yi e l d as de te rm i n e d b y t he ir b iologic a l c ha r a c t e r ist ic s 14.5 By 20 20, c on serve at l ea st 1 0 p e r c e nt of c o a st a l a nd ma r ine a r e a s, consist ent wi th n a ti ona l a nd i n t e r na t io na l la w a nd b a se d o n t he b e st av ailab le sc i e nti fi c i nform ati on 14.6 By 20 20, proh i bi t c e rtai n fo r ms of f ishe r ie s sub sid ie s w hic h c ont r ib u te t o ov ercapa c i ty a nd overfi sh i n g, e limina t e sub sid ie s t ha t c ont r ib ut e t o illegal, unr e ported a nd unregula t e d f ishing a nd r e f r a in f r om int r o d uc ing new such subs i di es, re c og ni zi ng t ha t a p p r op r ia t e a nd e f f e c t ive sp e c ia l a n d d if f erent ial tre a tm ent for deve lop ing a nd le a st d e ve lo p e d c o unt r ie s sho u l d b e an int egra l part of th e Worl d Tr a d e Or ga niza t io n f ishe r ie s sub sid ie s negot iat ion 14.7 By 20 30, i n c rea se th e ec on o mic b e ne f it s t o S ma ll Isla nd d e ve lop ing St at es and l ea st deve l oped c ou nt r ie s f r om t he sust a ina b le use of ma r ine resources, i nc l u di ng th rough s ust a ina b le ma na ge me nt of f ishe r ie s, aq uacult ure an d tou ri sm 14.A Increas e s c i enti fi c kn owl ed ge , d e ve lop r e se a r c h c a p a c it y a nd t ransfer m ari n e tec hnol og y, ta k ing int o a c c ount t he Int e r gove r nme nt a l Oceanogra ph i c Com m i ss i on Crit e r ia a nd G uid e line s o n t he Tr a nsf e r o f Marine Technol og y, i n orde r to imp r ove o c e a n he a lt h a nd t o e nha nc e t he cont rib ut ion of m a ri ne bi odi ve r sit y t o t he d e ve lop me nt o f d e ve lo p ing count ries, i n pa rti c ul ar s m al l i s la nd d e ve lo p ing S t a t e s a nd le a st d e ve lo p e d count ries 14.B Prov i de ac c ess for sm a l l -sc a le a r t isa na l f ishe r s t o ma r ine r e sour c e s and markets 14.C Enhanc e th e c onservati on a nd sust a ina b le use o f o c e a ns a nd t he ir resources by i m pl e m enti n g i nte r na t iona l la w a s r e f le c t e d in U N C L OS , w h i c h p rov id es t he l e ga l fram e work fo r t he c o nse r va t ion a nd sust a ina b le use o f oceans and th e i r re sourc es, as r e c a lle d in p a r a gr a p h 1 5 8 of The F ut ur e We Want 165

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

RAIN BOW T IDES Bangladesh is one of the world's leading countries in producing, processing, and exporting textiles and garments for us to wear.

Dhaka Rivers continue to be polluted beyond recognition today, despite the industry claims of cleaning up its act. Locals in the area face tremendous problems as they are entirely dependent on river water for fishing, drinking and washing. The rivers no longer contain fish, are foul-smelling and pitch-black due to industrial waste from tanneries, textile and garment factories.

The government made factories install effluent treatment plants (ETPs); however, the polluting industries discharge liquid into the river after treating it as per the law allows, which continues to pollute the rivers, because the standard as per the rules of the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act is not up to the mark. The industry needs to insist on higher standards being met, making sure the environment is not damaged, and peoples lives are not affected by the production of clothing and accessories. We would not accept these conditions in our backyards, so we should not accept it in others.

I m age: Palash Kha n A w om an o n a bo at col l e c ts f l o ati ng g arb ag e o n th e T u r a g n e a r T o n g i o n t h e o u t s k i r t s of t h e ca pital, D haka . The w ate r o f the e nti re ri ve r h a s t u r n e d j e t b l a c k d u e t o m i n d l e s s du m ping o f so lid and l i q ui d i nd us tri al w as te - A rti c l e : 08 F e b u r a r y 2020.

Re ad mo re her e w w w .t hedailystar .net The waters of the Turag flow alongside Dhaka's industrial s u b u r b s o f T o n g i , G a zi p u r and Savar, lined with dyeing and finishing factories. The river was once surrounded by agricultural land and the water was used mainly for fishing and transportation.

N o w a d a y s , t h e a r e a i s m o s t ly inhabited by people who directly or indirectly work in the textile industry.

Im a g e : P r o b a l Ra s h i d Re a d m o r e he r e www.thedailystar.net

166

TH E E F F C T T H E F AS H I O N I N D U S T RY H AS O N W ATER W AY S A RO U N D T HE W O R L D WAS T E D U M PE D I N T O T U RA G RI VE R I N BA N G L A D E SH, 2 0 1 8.

THE HUE O F PURPL E I S A D I RE C T RE S U LT O F W AT E R C O N TA M I N AT IO N F R O M T H E F AS H I O N IND U STR Y 167

IM AG E : G E T T Y I MA G E S

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

168 IM AG E : ST E VE J O HNSO N

COLOUR THEORY

169

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

170

C elebrating the h i s t o r y o f n a t u r a l i n d i g o a n d de nim in J apan th ro u g h t h e co n t emp o r a r y collec tive Buaiso u a s t h ey revi ve t h e cr a f t from crop to c los et .

B U AI S OU

I m ag e s - B uai s o u W o r d s - K i r r a l y An t c l i f f

E s t a b l i s he d i n 2 0 15 i n T o kushi ma Pre f e c ture the r e g a r d e d b i r t hp l ac e o f i ndi go i n Japan, B uai so u i s a c o l l e c t i v e o f c re ati ve s that have e stabl i she d a n i nd i g o f a r m a n d dye ho use to c o nti nue the c r a f t s m a ns hi p o f Japane se i ndi go pro duc ti o n.

W he n t he J a p a ne se Mi ni stry f o r Educ ati o n a p p e a l e d f o r t wo i ndi vi dual s to be trai ne d i n t he a r t o f i nd i g o dye i ng to pre se rve the c raf t f o r f ut ur e g e ne r a ti o ns, Kakuo Kaj i and Ke nta W a t a na b e r e s p o nde d to the c al l . As appre nti c e s t o s uk um o m a s t e r Osamu Ni i the y l e arnt the c raf t o f s uk um o – f e r m e nti ng i ndi go l e ave s – and i n r e c o g ni s i ng t he i r share d passi o n, B uai so u was b o r n.

I n wha t m a y s e e m a no ve l appro ac h to maki ng c l o t he s i n t hi s m ode rn wo rl d, B uai so u i s a re vi val o f c e nt ur i e s - o l d c raf tsmanshi p and re pre se nts m i nd f ul l o c a l p r o duc ti o n i n an i nc re asi ngl y g l o b a l i s e d a nd c o mme rc i al i ndustry.

F r o m p r o d uc i ng t he i r i ndi go -dye d te xti l e s to c o l l a b o r a t i ng wi t h arti sts, brands and c e l e bri ti e s, B ua i s o u’ s na t ur a l pi gme nt has al so be e n f e ature d i n A e s o p ’ s N E W o M an Yo ko hama sto re thro ughd y e d m a p l e t i m b er c urve d wal l s i n c o l l abo rati o n wi t h T o r a f u A r c hi t e c ts.

171

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

L e f t . Dr y i ng t he f r e sh I nd i go l e av e s i n th e gr e e nhouse B e l ow. H ar v e st i ng t he I nd i go

Bua iso u ’ s h an d s- o n p r a c t i c e r epre se n ts th e tr ue i nt e nt i o n of s l o w f ash io n . F r o m pr epar i n g th e so i l t o p l a nt i ng the se ed l in gs, n u r t ur i ng t he i r gr ow th to n in e m o nt hs l a t e r ha r v e sti n g th e i nd i g o c r o p . T he leav e s an d ste ms a r e s e p a r a t e d in a p r o cess calle d Ko na s hi usin g str o n g f an wi nd t ha t l i f t s the leav es o ff th e s t e m s whi c h dr op d u e to th ei r we i g ht i n a n e n clo sed r o o m . T he i nd i g o leav e s ar e d r ied a nd f e r m e nt e d over man y mo n ths b e f o r e b e i ng m ixe d w i th ash l y e , whe a t b r a n a n d cal ciu m h y d r o xi d e .

T h e v iv i d b l u e i nd i g o c o l o ur i s a r e su lt o f o x i d is a t i o n whe n t he dyed fab r ic i s ex p o s e d t o a i r follo w i n g its imm e r s i o n i n t he dye v ats.

In 2 0 1 8 B u ai so u t r a ns f o r m e d thei r o r i gin al d r e a m i nt o r e a l i t y – m ak i n g h an d - d y e d na t ur a l in d igo d en im jea ns .

Bua iso u jean s ar e a l a b o ur o f love , w i th o n ly l im i t e d p a i r s in d iv i d u al ly n u m b e r e d - m a d e per b atch o f f ab r i c a nd e a c h pa ir is se w n to o r d e r m e a ni ng z er o w aste fr o m e xc e s s in ve n to r y .

172

wi th the tanni n f o und w ith in th e pe rsi mmo n dye and o ver time c ause the thre ad to de epen i n c o l o ur. C rushe d c o pper ri ve ts are use d to re i nf orce th e sti tc hi ng o n the j e ans, albeit in l i mi te d numbe rs.

We avi ng the de ni m f abric f ro m the i r pre -dye d i ndigo ske i ns o f c o tto n yarn i n a l o c al T o kushi ma mi l l , Bu aisou we ave as many thre ads in th e we f t as po ssi bl e f o r i ncreased durabi l i ty.

T he patc h se wn o nto th e back o f e ac h pai r o f j e ans us es the same c l o th use d f o r th e po c ke t l i ni ng, wi th si z i n g an d batc h numbe r i nf o rmation are handwri tte n o n e ac h.

B ua i s o u ’ s si gnature l o o k c o me s f r o m t he atte nti o n to de tai l .

T he ha ndsti tc he d butto nho l e s us e r a m i e o r he mp thre ad dye d wi t h B uai so u’ s o wn o rgani c p e r s i m mo n j ui c e so l uti o n that ha s b e e n di sti l l e d f o r 5 ye ars.

N o z i p s o r be l t l o o ps, o nl y a c i nc h s trap o n the bac k al l o ws t he wa i st to be adj uste d and s t a i nl e s s-ste e l butto ns are us e d f or the f l y c l o sure . T he s t a i nl e s s-ste e l butto n wi l l re ac t

S ho wc asi ng e xc l usi vi ty in each pai r o f j e ans mi ndf ul l y made.

T he 810 de ni m j e an was th e f i rst styl e B uai so u c re at ed, an d si nc e the n the y have developed the 819 styl e whi c h f e at u res c o nte mpo rary update s a resu lt o f de si gn i te rati o ns.

B uai so u state the i r f uture goal i s to gro w the i r c o tto n a n d we ave i t the mse l ve s.

T op L e f t . S e wi ng t he l ab e l w i th hand wr i t t e n i nf or m at i on o n B uai sou's d e ni m j e ans.

T op Ri ght . H and se wi ng th e b ut t onhol e wi t h p e r si mmo n d y e d r am i e t hr e ad .

B ot t om . Dy e i ng i n t he i n d i g o d y e v at

Fo r mo re be hi nd th e sc e ne s i mage s follow B uai so u' s j o urn ey at www.buai so u-i .com/ @buai so u_ i

173

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

A B O V E: IN D IG O T e a

AB OVE: Ca nv as INDI GO To te s

The Edit

Thing s we love from Buaisou's online store

A B O V E: IN D IG O Chocola t e ( a v a i l a b l e f o r Ja p a n Orders only)

B EL O W: I NDI G O BE AD B R A CE LE T

AB OVE: IND IGO Ka nn yu M ug

A BO VE RI GHT : L o ng S l e e ve The rm al A BO VE LE F T: Ts hi rt I I

R I G HT : I ND I GO PUR S E

LE F T: I ND I GO S e e ds

174

A B O V E: BU AIS OU 819 J ea ns

A B O V E: IN D IG O dyed shoela ce AB OVE: Bua iso u Se wing Kit

ABO VE: Sashi k o Threa ds

B EL O W: L o n g S l e e v e w o r k s h i r t s

A B O V E: IN D IG O F a b r i c

B ELOW: Hemp B racelet

W W W.BUA ISOU. SHOP/

R IG H T : IN D IG O BAN D AN A

175

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

T

he be auty o f c l o thi ng an d textiles i s that the y are no t on ly essen tial i te ms but al so a f o rm of creative e xpre ssi o n. It' s saf e to say th at mo st de si gne rs wo rki ng i n f ashi on w ere first drawn to the i ndustry f o r thi s re ason .

At l e ast, thi s was the c ase f o r me w h en I l e f t uni ve rsi ty, and starte d my f irst job as a wo me nswe ar pri nt de si gne r thi rte en y ears ago.

I i magi ne d, so me what nai ve l y, that I w ou ld h ave the sc o pe to f ul l y e xpre ss my va lu es th rou gh de si gni ng. T he re al i ty i s that thi s i ndu stry is stu ck i n a damagi ng c yc l e o f une thi c al practices, an d tho se o f us ho pi ng to make a di f f e ren ce are left f e e l i ng f rustrate d, gui l ty, and di sc ou raged. I’ve me t so many de si gne rs, make rs and in depen den t c o mpani e s that ge nui ne l y want to become more re spo nsi bl e .

In the f ac e o f e xpansi ve e c o l o gi c a l an d social c ri se s, many o f the m are starti ng to ask th e righ t que sti o ns: Wh a t is my in ten t?

Wh a t is th e p u rp o s e o f th is p ro d u ct?

Wh o w ill it s u p p o rt?

Will it ca u s e h a rm?

B ut turni ng thi ngs aro und o f te n f e e ls impossible: de si gne rs struggl e to f i nd prac tical w ay s of matc hi ng the i r be l i e f s wi th their bu sin ess de c i si o ns.

P US H P ULL TEXTILES A sma l l d e s i g n s t u d i o l o c a t e d i n the Bl ue Mo u n t a i n s o f N S W, A u s t ralia c reatin g c a p t i v a t i n g t e x t i l e c o n c epts from e x i s t i n g m a t e r i a l s Wo r ds and I m a ge s b y E l o i s e R a p p , P u s h P u l l Tex t i l e s

176

Pro vi di ng the ri ght answe rs to t h ese critical que sti o ns i s what l e d me to start my stu dio, Pu sh Pul l T e xti l e s. My go al i s to pro vi de design ers w ith f unc ti o nal , ge nui ne , and c apti vati ng altern atives to the status quo . T e xti l e s have th e pow er to e ngage us wi th the i r sto ri e s and sh ow a n ew way f o rward. T hro ugh my maki ng, I strive to appl y the wi sdo m o f tradi ti o nal meth ods an d phi l o so phi e s to c o nte mpo rary ch allen ges in de si gn and manuf ac turi ng. I l o o k f or restorative ways to re -val ue e xi sti ng natural m aterials th at have be e n di sc arde d, damage d, o r are oth erw ise no t f i t f o r use . Usi ng o nl y l o w-i mpact meth ods o f pl ant dye i ng, l o o m we avi ng, and experimen tal c o nstruc ti o n, I gi ve the m ne w l i f e an d pu rpose.

B y do i ng thi s, I c an re duc e the ne ed to extract no n-re ne wabl e re so urc e s and, i n doin g so, i mpart e xi sti ng mate ri al s wi th n ew mean in g

E l o i se d evelo p in g t h e T Totaler installation in Push Pull Textil e s st ud i o

Push Pul l T e x t i l e s x T T ot al e r S y d ne y i n-st or e i nst al l at i on

an d lo n gev ity . I n e s s e nc e , m y p r a c t i c e i s abo ut mate r ials gai n i ng , r a t he r t ha n l o s i ng , val ue .

When I emb ar k o n a ne w t e x t i l e p r o j e c t, i t’ s im p o r tan t th at I ho l d m y s e l f a c c o unt a bl e to my o w n set o f q ue s t i o ns . W ha t i s t he m in imu m am ou n t o f c h a ng e t ha t ha s t o t a k e pl a ce to reval u e t h is m a t e r i a l ? H o w do I w o r k w i t h i t s exis tin g qua l i t i e s in st e a d o f i n o ppo s i t i o n t o t hem? Wh a t pote n t ia l im p a c t s co ul d a r i s e f r o m ho w I re- w o rk t his c l ot h ? B e ing c o m p l e t e l y ho ne s t a nd o pe n ab o u t b o th my s uc c e s s e s a nd m y s ho r t c o mi ngs allo w s me to mo r e e f f e c t i v e l y e na c t c ha nge .

share d my passi o n f o r mate ri al c ul t u res. W e di sc usse d the c ul tural si gni f i c anc e of certain c raf ts, ho w l o ng i t take s to attai n proficien cy , and o f te n, the i r f e ars o f the m be c o mi n g tw iligh t i ndustri e s. Expe ri e nc e d i nstruc to rs show ed me te c hni que s that ho no ur the i nte gri ty of cloth and f i bre , af te r whi c h I wo ul d spe nd mon th s i nve sti gati ng ho w thi s i ndi spe nsabl e know ledge c o ul d he l p di se ntangl e o ur c o nte mpo rary design and pro duc ti o n c hal l e nge s.

I b e l i e v e th at t ext ile m a ker s , h o wever sma l l - s c a l e , c a n s et a s t a n d a rd for r e s p o n s i b i l i t y an d d emo n s t r a te the pa t h t o a c h ievin g it .

R ese ar ch an d e xp e r i e nc e s up p o r t e v e r y de c i si o n I mak e in my s t ud i o , a nd t he y e a r s I spe nt livi n g i n Jap an a nd T a i wa n t r a ns f o r me d my u n d er stan d i n g o f t e x t i l e i m p a c t . I l e a r nt abo ut su stai n ab l e me t ho d s o f m a t e r i a l p r o duc ti o n su ch as n atu r a l i nd i g o d y e i ng , b a na na f i bre cu l tiv ati o n , r at t a n b e nd i ng , Ka s ur i ( i k a t) and sak i o r i ( sp l it we a v e ) c o ns t r uc t i o n. I di dn’ t star t w i th a sp e c i f i c p ur p o s e i n m i nd f o r my r esear ch . R ath e r , I f o r m e d r e l a t i o ns hi ps wi th p r actitio n er s, r e s e a r c he r s , a nd e nt hus i a sts who

One o f the te c hni que s I c ho se to f o cu s on in my ne w studi o was pl ant dye i ng. I c o uld see th e po te nti al o f thi s anc i e nt sc i e nc e to e n cou rage the re use o f waste mate ri al and c l o thin g. I am natural l y drawn to c re ati ng vi sual l a n dscapes i n te xti l e s, and hand-dye i ng l e nds i tself so w ell to thi s. Fi ndi ng that spe c i al i nte rpl ay of ligh t, c o l o ur, and te xture that e l e vate s a material to so me thi ng atmo sphe ri c and mo vi ng. I drew o n thi s f o r a re c e nt i n-sto re i nstal l at ion I did f o r a S ydne y te a c o mpany, T T o tal er, called T e aho use Wi ndo ws. D rawi ng o ut the rich an d vari e d pi gme nts hi dde n i n the i r te a l eaves an d bl e nds, I ge ne rate d e the re al and unexpected c o l o ur pal e tte s o n f o und c l o th usin g ecopri nti ng te c hni que s. T he re sul t was a u n iqu e vi sual i sati o n o f o ne o f te a’ s l e sser-kn ow n pro pe rti e s: i ts abi l i ty to dye c l o th.

177

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

T he 'tes u j i ' (hand -st r i p e d ) shi b or i m e t hod ap p l i e d t o l i ne n and d y e d wi t h nat ur al i nd i go

" M a s te r in s t r u c t o r s s h o wed me techniques that honour the i n t e g r i ty o f c lo t h a n d fib re, af ter which I would spend months i n v e s t i gat in g h o w t h is indispensable knowledge could help d i s e n t an g le o u r c o n t emp o rary design and production challenges."

178

179

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Pla n t d y ei n g is o n e o f t he m o s t c o m p l e x p r e-indu str ial tex til e t e c hni q ue s . C e nt ur i e s b efor e w e syn th esi z e d e a s y c he m i c a l f i x e s , cu ltur e s ar o u n d th e wo r l d und e r s t o o d t ha t u seful metal s an d m i ne r a l s we r e na t ur a l l y ava ilab le w i th i n s o i l , r o c k s , p l a nt s , a nd water w ays. I f y o u c o m b i ne t he s e wi t h sp ecifi c p igme n ts d r a wn f r o m l e a v e s , b a r k , an d r o o ts, yo u can c r e a t e a l a s t i ng c o l o ur .

It is a k n o w l ed ge t ha t i s d e e p l y c o nne c t e d to lan d an d I n d i gen e i t y . T he Ry ūk y ū P e o p l e , th e or igin al i n h ab i t a nt s o f m o d e r n- d a y O kina w a, u sed se a wa t e r i m m e r s i o n t o b r igh ten y aeyama j ō f u , a n e xq ui s i t e c l o t h woven fr o m h e mp . I n E a s t e r n T a i wa n, t he Ata ya l an d P in gp u I nd i g e no us g r o up s ha v e b een d y ei n g mate r i a l v i v i d r e d wi t h p i g m e nt extr acted f r o m th e na t i v e s ho ul a ng , a k i nd of ya m, fo r cen tu r i e s .

Living in th i s r egi o n f o r a f e w y e a r s g a v e m e tim e to cu l tiv ate a m o r e ho l i s t i c a p p r e c i a t i o n of th e se cen tu r i es - o l d c r a f t s . I o b s e r v e d th e eco sy ste ms th e y o p e r a t e wi t hi n, t he commu n i ties th at r e v e r b e r a t e o f f t he m . T he b od ies th at str ain und e r d e c a d e s o f p r e c i s e la b ou r .

M o re t h a n a n yt h in g , t h e mo s t la st in g i m p r e s s io n I h ave o f t h es e cra f t s i s of t h e in t er c o n n ec t ed syst e m s t h e y n u r t u r e.

Dy e i ng wi t h t wo d i f f e r e nt ap p l i c at i ons of gr e e n and b l ac k t e a l e av e s on sa l v a g e d hab ut ae wi t h an i r on ac e t at e m od i f i e r

E l o i s e R ap p , in t h e P u s h P ull studio on Dharug/Gundangara Count r y , Kat oom b a, A ust r al i a

180

I b elieve i n th e v alu e o f t i m e - ho no ur e d m e t hods. Pe o pl e have be e n hand dye i ng, hand we avi ng, an d han d se w i n g f o r th o u s a nd s o f y e a r s . A nd where I se e the se me tho ds havi ng the mo st i mpac t o n ou r cur r ent u n su stain ab l e m o d e l s i s i n t he i r a b i l i t y to c re ate l i mi ts to pro duc ti o n.

T he se c r a f ts a r e b y t h eir ver y n a t ure ecologically sustainable. They rely on h uma n l a b ou r an d in g en u it y. T h ey cannot be scaled excessively because t he y ar e t e th e r e d t o r eg en er a t ive n at u r al cycles of cultivating raw materials.

They ha v e sp i r itu al a nd f a m i l i a l s i g ni f i c a nc e – so me thi ng we have al l but l o st i n We ste rn c ul t u res.

Wher e han d cr aft eco no m i e s a r e e s t a b l i s he d , t he y c re ate stro ng e c o syste ms and suppo rt c o mmunities.

And th ey h av e su r v iv e d a l l t he s e y e a r s b e c a us e o f the ri c h val ue the y i mbue i n o ur c l o thi ng, f urnitu re, and ob je cts o f d ai ly l i f e . F o r m e , t hi s i s wha t de f i ne s re spo nsi bl e maki ng.

I ’m deeply in v ested i n s y s t e m s c ha ng e a nd I ’ m a passi o nate advo c ate o f the mi c ro -e nte rpri se . I sta rted P ush Pul l so I co u l d w o r k wi t h A us t r a l i a n d e s i g ne rs, make rs, and i nsti tuti o ns o n c o l l abo rati ve wa y s to reim agin e o u r cu r r e nt s y s t e m . T o m o v e a wa y fro m damagi ng and e xtrac ti ve mo de s o f pro duc ti o n an d g e t us to th e p lace w e ’ v e a l wa y s wa nt e d o ur p rac ti c e and o ur i ndustry to be : e xpre ssi ve and vi si on ary , bu t a lso r e sp o n sib le a nd c a r i ng .

Push P ull S er vi c es Pus h Pu ll mak e s a r a ng e o f s i g na t ur e f abri c s and c o l l abo rate s wi th f ashi o n, pro duc t and in te r io r d esign e r s t o c r e a t e c us t o m t e xt i le s.

Na tu r a l D y ein g Inc l u d e s n atu r a l i nd i g o a nd a r a ng e o f c ol o urs pro duc e d f ro m l o c al l y f o rage d o r re spo nsi bl y ha r v ested p lan t m a t e r i a l . T he c o s t o f d y e i ng i s de te rmi ne d by the to tal we i ght o f the f abri c , with th e mi n i mu m b e i ng o ne m e t r e . A l l i t e ms made f ro m natural f i bre s are ac c e pte d. L arge r m e ter age s may ne e d t o b e c ut i nt o l e ng ths f o r e ase o f dye i ng. S e rvi c e s i nc l ude me te rage dye in g, w h o l e g a r m e nt d y e i ng , a nd c r e a t i ve patte rni ng ( shi bo ri te c hni que s, gradi e nt dye i ng, bot an ical an d m o r d a nt p r i nt i ng ) .

Rag Wea v in g Inv o lv e s str ip p ing wa s t e f a b r i c i nt o a y a r n that f o rms the we f t o f a c usto mi se d wo ve n mate ri al .

E ach p iece i s cr e a t e d b y ha nd o n a n 8 - s ha f t f l o o r l o o m, and mate ri al c an be pro vi de d by the c lie n t o r Pu sh P ul l . T he r e a r e no m i ni m ums, but the c o st o f a pro j e c t de pe nds o n the sc al e , m ate r ials, an d i nt r i c a c y r e q ui r e d . B o t h l engths o f f abri c and i ndi vi dual patte rn pi e c e s c an be w o v e n .

Exper im en ta l C o ns t ruc t i o n T h is se r v i ce em p l o y s t he us e o f p a t c hi ng, pane l l i ng, appl i qué , l aye ri ng, sl ashi ng, mac hi ne a n d h an d stitchi ng , f e l t i ng , a nd o t he r m e t ho ds o f mani pul ati o n to c re ate a uni que , o ne -o f -akin d tex tile. Th e r e a r e no m i ni m um s b ut t he c o st o f a pro j e c t de pe nds o n the sc al e , mate ri al s a n d in tr i cacy r e q ui r e d . T hi s m e t ho d c a n a l so be c o mbi ne d wi th natural dye i ng and we avi ng.

C o n s u lta tio n Ide n tify in g o p p o r t uni t i e s t o us e r e s p o ns i bl e te xti l e s to e l e vate c l i e nts’ brands/o rgani sati o ns, a n d to b ette r al i g n c l i e nt s ’ p r o d uc t i o n m etho ds wi th the i r val ue s and strate gi c go al s.

Fol lo w th e stu d i o o n I ns t a g r a m @p us hp u l l te xti l e s V is it th e w e b si te a t www. p us hp ul l t e xt i l e s.c o m Get in to u ch w i t h E l o i s e a t e l o i s e @ p us hpul l te xti l e s.c o m

181

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

THE ART OF REINVENTIO N We take a l ook at compan ie s all arou n d t h e w orld w h o are mak in g s u r e ou r de n im g arme n t s la s t l o n g e r R ep ai r in g no t o nl y s a v e s t he wo r l d f ro m mo re waste i t al so c re ate s uni que pi e c e s o f w earable ar t, a o n e o f a k i nd j e a ns i n t he c ase o f Pe y, aka S ashi ko D e ni m. Pe y' s mai n mo ti vati on beh in d cr eati ng hi s p i e c e s o f d e ni m a r t i s to take ac ti o n agai nst to day’ s f ast c yc l e o f ‘ use t u rn ed to w aste ’ . H e o nl y us e t he t r a d i t i o na l j apane se me ndi ng te c hni que ‘ sashi ko ’ to re pai r j e an s, all by h an d , o n e s t i t c h a t t he t i m e . T he f oc us and de di c ati o n ne e de d to re pai ri ng and al te rin g den im w ith t hi s t e c hni q ue i s wha t m a ke s i t a uni que and stando ut o ve r o the rs. A uni que piece of we a r a b l e a r t t ha t m o r e o f us appre c i ate to day as sl o w f ashi o n gai ns mo re traction .

O n e stitch at the t i m e , s l o w l y and p re c i s e l y.

Loca tio n: Ha ar lem , Ne the rl and s @s as hi k o d e ni m

182

Location: France @ T D N Re p a i r s www.tenuedenimes.com

P e y @ s a shikodenim

ONE STITCH AT A TIME

W ha t i s S a s h i k o?

S a s hi k o s t i t c hi ng i s a t radi ti o nal re i nf o rc e me nt sti tc hi ng t e c hni q ue f r o m J a p a n. T radi ti o nal l y thi s me tho d was use d t o r e i nf o r c e p o i nt s o f we ar o r to re pai r wo rn pl ac e s o r te ars wi t h p a t c he s , m a k i ng t he darne d pi e c e ul ti mate l y stro nge r a nd wa r m e r . I t wa s v e ry po pul ar amo ng po o r f arme rs and f i s he r m e n i n t he N o r t h e rn part o f Japan. Mo st o f the ti me t he d e c o r a t i o ns a r e s y m bo l s o n ki mo no s and o the r garme nts whi c h we r e c o ns i d e r e d as spi ri tual pro te c ti o n. S o me garme nts ha d s t i t c he d s y m b o l s hi dde n i nsi de the garme nt to pro te c t the body too.

S a s hi k o m e a ns l i t e r a l l y l i ttl e stabs. T he c o tto n thre ad i s whi te a nd wa s us e d o n o r i g i n al c o l o ure d pi e c e s that we re dye d i n na t ur a l i nd i g o . N o wa d ays the se o l d pi e c e s are ve ry val uabl e a nd t r ue c o l l e c t o r ’ s i t e ms.

An t iqu e Japenese, o ld f re nc h l i ne n sack a nd 1 9 th Ce ntury f ab ri c s @c aro _ ram s e y

S as h i k o S t i t c h e d D e n i m Ja c k e t @sashikodenim

R e p a i r d o n ' t r e p l a c e - St it ch kit w w w .s a s h i k o denim.com

REPAIR DONT REPLACE 183

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

W h y y o u sh ou l d r e p a i r y ou r j e a n s ?

D e ni m i s l i k e wi ne a nd c he e se ; i t ge ts be tte r wi th age . We l i ke o ur j e a ns m o r e a s t he y ge t bro ke n i n. No t o nl y do we c o nsi de r d e ni m m o r e b e a ut i f ul as i t we ars; many are happy to pay m o r e f o r j e a ns t ha t a r e wo rn and to rn.

T hi s i s whe r e r e p a i r i ng e nte rs the pi c ture . D e ni m i s e asy to r e p a i r , a nd whe n d o ne ri ght, re pai rs c an make yo ur j e ans l o o k e v e n b e t t e r a nd u ni que . Ano the r o bvi o us be ne f i t i s that i t s a v e s y o u m o ne y a nd yo u' re l o we ri ng yo ur e nvi ro nme ntal f o o t p r i nt - A l l b y r e p a iri ng the m!

T o d a y t he d e ni m i nd us try pro duc e s mo re than 6 bi l l i o n pai rs o f j e a ns p e r y e a r , a nd 1.2 bi l l i o n o f tho se do n' t e ve n ge t wo rn - we ha v e t o a s k wha t are we do i ng? .

Ma ny c o ns um e r s ha v e no t c o nsi de re d re pai ri ng a re al o pti o n up t o no w, b ut t ha t ' s al l starti ng to c hange .

F a d i ng a nd r e p a i r s a r e part o f j e ans' l anguage , so i t' s ti me f o r e v e r y o ne t o l o v e wha t ' s al re ady i n o ur wardro be s.

Cloth es D octor | UK Repa ir s • A lterati o ns • R e s to re www.clo the s - d o c to r.c o m

184

R ep a i r e d D e n i m | N e t h e r l a n d s @weartearpair @dutchdenimrepair

N u d ie J e a n s | Aus tr a l i a N u d i e Je a n s Re p a i r S h ops a re hubs f o r t h e i r j e a n s t o b e r e p a ired, resold a s s e c o n d -h a n d o r e v e n dona t ed t o t h e N u d i e Je a n s r e c y c l i ng progra m. w w w . n u d i e j e a n s . c o m / repa ir-spot s

BEL O W : Re m a na nt s Y a r ns f o r hand k ni t t i ng , m a c hi ne k nitti ng 7/5gg or we avi ng.

I nS t o c k a t RawAsse mbl y

SUPPORT MATERIALS

E x c e s s b ul k pro duc ti o n C ompo si ti o n: * I d e a l f o r i nt e ri o r de si gn, i ns t a l l a ti o n pi e c e s www. r a wa s se mbl y.c o m

A BOVE : C o m p an y : Bo ta nica Tincto ri a @ r a chelm achenr y 8 - S tran d Organic E ri E mbro i d e ry S i l k (GO TS Ce rt ified, Fair Tr ade C e rti f i e d ) O f f e r ed in 14 na tur ally hand - d ye d c olours, plus Na tur al.

ABOVE : Re pai r do n' t re pl ace - Stitch kit Re gul ar price € 17,00 www.sashi k oden im.com

BELOW: Susta inab le D e n i m, t wi l l , he m p an d c otto n fab r ic b u nd l e s f o r p atch ing & r e p air ing - A us t r a l i a www.r aw assemb ly .c o m

LEFT Y a m a t o Indi go D ye ( 500g, 1kg) Y a m a t o Indi go i s a Japane se na t ur a l -bl e nd i ndi go po wde r d y e . E a s y to use , Yamato Indi go o nl y ne e ds wate r; no he ati ng o r f e r m e ntati o n i s ne c e ssary.

I t d y e s n atural mate ri al s, suc h a s c o t t o n, l i ne n, si l k, l e athe r, wo o d , a nd washi pape r, i nto a v i b r a nt , be auti f ul “ Japan B l ue .”

BELOW: D e adsto c k se l ve dge den im f abrics @de ni m .lab w w w .d e n i m l a b.nl

www.y a m ato i ndi go .c o m/

A B O VE RI GH T: L A V A L IVING S hi b o r i L i ne n F a b r i c B undl e , I nd i g o D y e d S a m p l e r , f o r B o ro a nd P a t c he s Re g u l ar pri c e www. e t s y.c o m/au/

L EF T: 11.11 E leven . E leven T hi s handc raf te d kni tti ng e sse nti al s ki t i s made f ro m undye d handspun de ni m and i nc l ude s x 2 - 50 gram ske i ns ( 250 me tre s) o f c l i mate be ne f i c i al o rgani c c o tto n handspun yarn.

T he ki t al so i nc l ude s a sampl e o f i ndi ge no us f i be r l i ke : pure pashmi na wo o l and ahi msa si l k. T hi s range o f hand spun yarn al l c arry di sti nc t pro pe rti e s o f the l andsc ape s the y c o me f ro m.

Me n din g M atters www.booktopia.com 185

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

D E A DLY DE NIM 186

C onnec ting People To A boriginal Culture Through Ar twor k On D enim Deadly Denim is a sustainable label using thrifted denim jackets and other recycled denim as a medium to showcase Australian First Nation artists. Some designs are digitally printed onto fabric with collaborating artists and others are screen printed textiles purchased from remote Aboriginal art centres.

Deadly Denim the label is the creation of Emerging Designer Rebecca Rickard, a Ballardong, Whadjuk woman from the Nyungar nation living and working on country Perth W.A. Rebecca came to Fashion late in life, currently studying Fashion Design at the age of 45. Deadly denim launched in October 2018 when they started selling at markets and as the demand for their unique one-of-a-kind creations grew so did they.

Through the warmer months, they have a range of recycled denim skirts, dresses, vests and short sleeve shirts showcasing Indigenous artists and their designs. Deadly Denim also has a popular range of Tote/shopping bags made from recycled jeans and a panel from our textile collection.

All of the smaller scraps of these stunning textiles are donated to a local sewing group in a local women’s correction facility. Where a group of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander women learn to sew and create amazing storybook animals for a children’s program.

They are also grateful for the kind donations from Publisher Textiles from their offcuts in their fashion collaboration with Babbarra Women’s centre in Arnhem Land. They recently donated some of these offcuts to create over 150 of our Deadly Denim bags for women in local women’s hospital.

Image - Deadly Denim Designs

The label first showcased at Perth Fashion Week in 2019 and is one of the ten International designers selected to exhibit their collection as a "one to watch" with the 'Flying Solo' at the upcoming NYC Fashion Week runway. Deadly Denim donates a percentage of profit to Rhodanthe Lipsett Indigenous Midwifery Trust who support increasing the Aborignal and Torres Strait Islander Midwifery workforce.

Deadly Denim now sells via their Etsy shop, in retail stores nationally and the latest edition, a 10ft mobile vintage caravan. The Caravan is a portable sewing studio and pop up shop that can be found at different locations right across Western Australia.

They are proud to now be showcasing First Nation Art right across the globe through their Deadly Denim designs. www.deadlydenim.com.au

187

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

DE A D LY DE NI M

Images Above and Right Deadly Denim Designs

188

189

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

W O R LD WI D E CO N SUMP T I O N A ND P R O D U C T I O N

Wo r ld wi d e c o ns um p t i o n a nd p ro duc ti o n, a dri vi ng f o rc e o f the gl o bal e c o no my, r el y o n t he us e o f t he na t ur a l e nv i ro nme nt and re so urc e s i n a mo de l that c o nti nue s to lead t o d e s t r uc t i v e i m p a c t s o n the pl ane t. T he pande mi c o f f e rs c o untri e s an o p p o r t uni t y t o b ui l d a r e c o v e r y pl an that wi l l re ve rse c urre nt tre nds and c hange c o ns um p t i o n a nd p r o d uc ti o n patte rns to wards a sustai nabl e f uture .

As o f 2 0 1 9 , 7 9 c o unt r i e s a nd the Euro pe an Uni o n re po rte d o n at l e ast o ne n ati o n a l p o l i c y i ns t r um e nt t hat c o ntri bute d to sustai nabl e c o nsumpti o n and p r o d u c t i o n i n t he i r e f f o r t s t o wa rds the i mpl e me ntati o n o f the 10-Ye ar Frame wo rk o f P r o g r a m m e s o n S us t a i n abl e C o nsumpti o n and Pro duc ti o n Patte rns.

G lo b al d o m e s t i c m a t e r i a l c o ns umpti o n pe r c api ta ro se by 7 pe r c e nt, f ro m 10.8 me tr ic t o ns p e r c a p i t a i n 2 0 1 0 to 11.7 me tri c to ns i n 2017, wi th i nc re ase s i n all r eg i o ns e xc e p t N o r t he r n A me ri c a and Af ri c a. Ho we ve r, do me sti c mate ri al co n su m p t i o n p e r c a p i t a i n E ur o pe and No rthe rn Ame ri c a i s sti l l 40 pe r c e nt hi ghe r th an th e g l o b a l a v e r a g e , i nd i c a t i ng the ne e d to e nhanc e re so urc e e f f i c i e nc y and p r a c t i c e s t o r educ e c o nsumpti o n i n the f uture .

Th e glo b a l m a t e r i a l f o o t p r i nt r ose , f ro m 73.2 bi l l i o n me tri c to ns i n 2010 to 85.9 b illio n m e t r i c t o ns i n 2 0 1 7 , a 17.4 pe r c e nt i nc re ase si nc e 2010 and a 66.5 pe r cen t i nc r e a s e f r o m 2 0 0 0 . T he w o rl d’ s re l i anc e o n natural re so urc e s c o nti nue d to a c c e l e r a t e i n the past two de c ade s.

Th e M o nt r e a l P r o t o c o l o n S ub s t anc e s that D e pl e te the Oz o ne L aye r has be e n u n iv e r s a l l y r a t i f i e d b y 1 9 8 p a r t i e s, and, as a re sul t o f i ts i mpl e me ntati o n, the o v er al l a b und a nc e o f o z o ne - d e p l e ti ng substanc e s i n the atmo sphe re has de c re ase d o v er th e p a s t t wo d e c a d e s , wi t h pro j e c ti o ns to re turn to 1980 val ue s i n the 2030s f o r no r t he r n he mi sphe re mi d-l ati tude o z o ne .

Fr o m 20 1 0 t o 2 0 1 9 , g l o b a l e - wa s te ge ne rati o n gre w c o nti nuo usl y, f ro m 5.3 kg pe r cap ita t o 7 . 3 k g p e r c a p i t a , whi l e the e nvi ro nme ntal l y so und re c yc l i ng o f e ‑waste inc r e a s e d a t a s l o we r p a c e, f ro m 0.8 kg pe r c api ta to 1.3 kg pe r c api ta.

G lo b al f o s s i l f ue l s ub s i d i e s a mo unte d to mo re than $400 bi l l i o n i n 2018. T he co n tin u e d p r e v a l e nc e o f s uc h s ubsi di e s, mo re than do ubl e the e sti mate d subsi di e s fo r r en e wa b l e s , a d v e r s e l y a f f e c ts the task o f ac hi e vi ng an e arl y pe ak i n gl o bal c a r bo n di o xi de e mi ssi o ns.

L e a r n mo re abo ut Go al 12 he re Un ited N a tio n s Acce ss t he P r o g r es s t o w a r ds t h e S u s ta in a b le D evelo p men t Go a ls , R ep o rt o f th e S ec reta ry- Gen era l, HE R E

190

191

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

LIMI T E D E D I T I ON

B U Y L E SS , BUY BETTER Sh o wc a si n g a rtists & artisans that mak e mindful, lim ited e dition pie c e s.

WHAT 11.11 REP RESENTS

/

eleve n

e le ve n

11.11 e l e ve n / e l e ve n i s a sign ifier f o r sync hro ni c i ty – 1 specifically is a numbe r o f maste ry. T he n ame of th e brand re pre se nts a c o ntin u ou s qu est f o r maste ry.

11.11 / e l e ve n e l e ve n has con solidated i ts ro o ts i n the l uxury space, w ith an e mphasi s o n c re ati ng l i nks betw een f arme rs, we ave rs, ve ge t able dy ein g and bl o c k pri nti ng tradi ti on s. Th is h as re sul te d i n the f o rmati o n of a bran d that has c re ate d gro unds for eth ical pro duc ts whi l e e nsuri ng su stain ability o f l o c al stre ngths. T he kha di w ay is th e 11.11 / e l e ve n e l e ve n vi s ion to bu ild me ani ngf ul / be auti f ul produ cts by trac i ng the suppl y c hai n story from seed to sti tc h.

Al l c o tto n f abri c use d by 11.11 / eleven e l e ve n are 100% khadi c o t ton an d dy ed i n 100% natural dye s, Khadi Den im, K ala c o tto n, 200 c o unt Khadi Cotton , Silk and Ahi msa S i l k 11.11 / eleven eleven si gnature f abri c s.

KNO W TH E MA KERS Eac h pi e c e i n 11.11 c o me s w ith u n iqu e pro duc t c o de , handmade from start to f i ni sh e ac h pi e c e c an be seen as c o l l e c to rs i te m. S i gne d, numbered an d date d by the arti san, wh ich en ables c o mpl e te trac e abi l i ty f rom ‘seed to sti tc h’ L O NG L A STI NG RESP ECT & QUALITY T he Arti sans the y c o l l abo ra te w ith w ork f ro m ho me - the i r spi nni ng w h eel, loom and ki tc he n happe n i n the same space - e qui pme nt mi ght e xte nd to th e porch o r a ro o f te rrac e . Fami l y m embers often wo rk as a te am i n c harge of differen t o pe rati o ns.

Many gro w the i r o wn f o o d an d co-exist wi th ani mal s. T he se c raf t commu n ities l o c ate d i n re mo te are as h ave some of the smal l e st c arbo n f o o t prin ts on th e pl ane t.

T hi s se l f suf f i c i e nt mo de l h as n ever felt mo re i nspi ri ng o r re l e van t as a model f o r l i vi ng. T o de c e ntral i se produ ction duri ng thi s C o vi d c o nc e rned time th ey have l aunc he d a l i ne o f h ome textiles - made i n ho me studi o s f o r ou r h omes. www.11-11.in/

192

Zero wa s t e, 1 1 . 1 1 w o rk t o a z e r o wa s t e d es i gn pr a c t i c e, a ft er ea c h ga r m ent i s c u t a n d s t i t c hed t h e y c o l l ec t a l l t h e l eft o v er s c ra p fo r o u r rec l a i m ed a c c es s o r i es c o l l ec t i o n .

Al l t h e s c r a p a r e s egrega t ed ba s e d o n i t s c o l o u r , wei gh t a nd t ext u r e .

“ K i n tsu g i " - a J a p a ne s e m e t ho d

G L E N M A RT IN TAYLO R

for r ep ai r in g b r o k e n c e r a m i c s wit h a sp eci al l a c q ue r m i xe d wit h go l d , si lv e r , o r p l a t i num / Not h in g is ev er t r ul y b r o k e n – i s th e p h ilo so p h y be hi nd t he a nc i e nt Jap an e se ar t o f K i nt s ug i , whi c h r ep ai r s smash ed p o t t e r y b y us i ng b eau tifu l seams o f g o l d ” … O R d en im, Th r e ad s, c ha i ns , t wi g s , match stick s, b a r b e d wi r e . . . a nd t he list go es o n if yo u ha p p e n t o b e Gle n M ar ti n Tay l o r .

Gle n p u ts h is o w n t wi s t o n t he a r t of K i n t su g i , b y tra ns f o r m i ng wha t was o n ce b r o k en a nd r e j e c t e d i nt o fa scin ati n g n e w o b j e c t s . @gl en tay lo r mar t i n

193

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

ART IN THE MODERN AGE Aus tralian artist Rac hael We l l i s ch ca p t u res t h e i ma g i n a t i o n t h ro u g h h er ar tworks and installations as s h e w ea ves i n s p i r a t i o n f ro m l a n d s ca p es a n d ancien t earth forms w ith repu r p o s ed t ext i l es a n d p l a n t -d er i ved In d i g o d ye.

For R ach ae l, art i s a wa y t o c o m m uni cate the in n ate r el atio n s hi p b e t we e n hum a n b e havi o ur a n d th e n atu r al e nv i r o nm e nt . A p a r a l l e l we are in cr e asi n gl y b e c o m i ng m o r e a wa r e o f a s w e e nte r the An th r o p o cen e .

UK and nume ro us l o c ati o ns aro und Australia.

C urre ntl y Rac hae l i s a po st-c o nf i rmati o n doctoral c andi date and tuto r at the Gri f f i th U n iversity , whe re she share s he r e xpe ri e nc e s and know ledge wi th the ne xt ge ne rati o n o f arti sts.

T h is th r e ad o f co nne c t i o n f r o m t he na t ur a l wo rl d, to m ate r ials an d s us t a i na b i l i t y i n t he m o de rn age is ad d r e ssed th r o ug h Ra c ha e l ’ s m i nd f ul use o f sa lv aged tex tiles a nd p r e s e r v a t i o n o f t he hi sto ri c pr a ctice o f n atur a l I nd i g o d y e i ng b y ha nd.

W it h w o r k cu r r e nt l y i ns t a l l e d i n t he Hyo go Pr e fectu r al M u s e um o f A r t i n J a p a n, R ac hae l ’ s work h as al so e xhi b i t e d i n I r e l a nd , A us tri a, the

In c o nve rsati o n wi th RawAsse mbl y, Rac hael sh ared wi th us i nsi ght be hi nd he r arti sti c pro c e ss, love of natural Indi go and he r pe rspe c ti ve o n th e role of art i n the c hangi ng wo rl d aro und us.

194

R ach a el, h o w do y o u d e sc ri b e y o ur wo rk?

I’m a v i su al ar tist, m a k i ng s c ul p t ur e s , i ns t a l l ati o ns, vid eo an d w al l- b a s e d wo r k s , us i ng s a l vage d textiles an d n atu r a l i nd i g o d y e .

Te l l u s a bo u t h ow yo ur j o urne y a s a natura l In d i go v is u a l a r tist b e g a n. W he n d i d y o u fa ll in l ove w ith th is me d i um ?

I’m a little o b se ss e d wi t h I nd i g o a nd ha v e be e n d yein g r e gu l ar ly wi t h i t s i nc e 2 0 1 1 . I t ’ s s u c h an amazi n g mater i al t o wo r k wi t h, a nd i t ha s a l o ng, r ic h , co mp lex , so m e t i m e s d a r k , b ut f a s c i nati ng h istory .

I don’t k n o w ex actl y whe n i t b e g a n, b ut d o i ng so me d yein g an d b atik wa y b a c k whe n I wa s a t e enage r, th en see in g in tr i g ui ng I nd i g o t e x t i l e s o n t rave l s in Ja p an , I n d o n e s i a , N o r t he r n A f r i c a a nd the Middl e East ce r tainl y c o nt r i b ut e d . T he p r o ce ss o f making a d ye v at, wa t c hi ng f a b r i c i m m e r s ed i nto a cop p e r y b r o w n l i q ui d , e m e r g e y e l l o w/ g r e en and th en gr ad u ally o x i d i z e t o b l ue i s j us t s o magi c al an d s ati sf y in g.

Wh at a r e th e m a i n c o nc e p t s y o u hope to co mmu n ica te t hro ug h y o ur a rt a nd i n stalla tio n s ?

B l ue Moon, H and -m ad e p ap e r , f r om i nd i go d y e d sal v age d t e x t i l e s.

"Th e b roa d u n d erly in g t h eme with i n my p ra c t ic e is t h e rela t ion sh ip b et ween h u ma n b eh a v ior a n d t h e n a t u ra l en v iron men t ."

The br o ad u n d e r ly i ng t he m e wi t hi n m y p r a cti c e i s th e r el atio n sh ip b e t we e n hum a n b e ha v i o r a nd the n atu r al e n v ir o n me nt .

Disc ou r se ar o u n d c l i m a t e c ha ng e a nd s us t a i nabi l i ty is inc r e asi n gl y a so ur c e o f c o nf us i o n a nd d espai r, an d m y w o r k isn ’ t i nt e nd e d a s a s c o l d i ng o r even an o v e r t cal l t o a c t i o n, b ut r a t he r a l a ye re d con tr i b u ti o n to th e c o nv e r s a t i o n a r o und be i ng mindf u l o f w h at we ha v e , a nd ho w e v e r y t hi ng i s con n ecte d . I ’ d l o v e i t i f t he wo r k g a r ne r e d a se nse of wo n d er , cu r i o s i t y a nd i nt r i g ue t o wa r ds the mater i als, w h i ch i d e a l l y m i g ht g e ne r a t e a se nse of h op e.

C ou l d y o u s h a r e m o re a b o ut t he re l a t i onship o f you r w o r k to S a l va g e d t e x t i l e s a nd the i mp o r ta n ce o f w o rki ng w i t h m a t e ri a l s tha t al rea dy ex is t a n d i n so m e c a s e s m a t e ri a ls tha t h ave r ea ch ed th e e nd o f t he i r na t ura l p roduc t l i f e -cy cle.

Ju mp i n g in an d o u t o f t he a l r e a d y e xi s t i ng c yc l e of thi n gs fee ls a p o s i t i v e wa y t o c o nne c t , bo th to th e mate r ials I ’ m wo r k i ng wi t h, o t he r pe o pl e an d m y e n v ir o n me nt . A n o l d l i ne n t a b l e c l o t h, no w staine d an d fr ay e d r e a l l y s p e a k s o f m a ny me al s p r ep ar ed an d sh a r e d , us e d b e d s he e t s wo rn thi n in th e mi d d le h av e p r e s um a b l y s e e n t he i r c a pac i ty of sle e p in g b o d i es , a s we l l a s l o v e , s e x, b i r th and d eath .

195

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

I a m co n stan tl y m a k i ng s o m e t hi ng , thro ugh exp er i me n tati o n a nd p l a y i ng , a nd o f t e n thi s invo l v e s attemp t s a nd i t e r a t i o ns , s o I f e e l a r esp o n si b ility to d o t hi s wi t h s us t a i na bi l i ty i n mind . U si n g thi ng s t ha t a r e d i s c a r d e d rathe r th an v i r gin mate r i a l s m e a ns m o r e s t uf f stayi ng within th e p r o d u c t i o n l o o p r a t he r t ha n e ndi ng up in lan d fill, an d le s s p r e s s ur e o n g l o b a l e c o no mi c syst ems w h i ch a r e a l r e a d y d i s a d v a nt a g i ng many p eop le, an d o f co ur s e d i s a d v a nt a g i ng e c o syste ms.

Addi tio n ally , it i s a g r e a t e c o no m i c a l c h o i c e so th er e’ s an ad d e d f r e e d o m i n e xp e r i m e nt a t i o n that may n o t b e th e r e i f I we r e us i ng e x p e ns i v e , ne w, mate r ials.

Wh e r e do y o u s ourc e y o ur na t ura l Ind i go from?

I h av e tr i ed a r ang e o f s o ur c e s i nc l ud i ng T hre ads of L ife i n B al i, w ho a r e f o c us e d o n p r e s e r v i ng l o c al tr ad itio n al te x ti l e p r a c t i c e s i n s us t a i na b l e ways.

I a ls o h av e a fr ie nd i n N S W who i s g r o wi ng so me n ati v e I n d igo o n he r p r o p e r t y , s o wi l l b e ke e n to exp er i me n t w i th t ha t i n t he f ut ur e whe n the re i s en ou gh .

M at e r i al S c h i s ts , 2 0 2 0 I nd i go dy e d , l a y e r e d t he n c u t, s a l v a g e d te x ti l e s .

W ha t wa s the inspira tion behin d insta lla tion Ma teria l Monuments?

your

T he se wo rks be gan as physi c al , material e xpe ri me nts, tryi ng to pi l e up many lay ers of f abri c i nto a si ngl e de nse mass, and the n I w an ted to se e i f and ho w I c o ul d shape the ma ss. On ce c ut, the mate ri al s se e me d to re se mbl e lay ers of se di me nt bui l t up o ve r ti me , so me thi ng l ike a core sampl e dri l l e d f ro m a l andsc ape o f te xti le w aste.

Austral i an re se arc he r L ynne Ke l l y i n her book T he Me mo ry C o de , di sc usse s the e nc yclopaedic kno wl e dge pre se nt i n pre -l i te rate i n digen ou s c ul ture s and ho w the y use d mo nume nts su ch as S to ne he nge ( whi c h i s made o f bl ue sto ne) as sites f o r re c al l i ng and shari ng the i nf o rmati o n th at w as c ri ti c al f o r the i r survi val .

R e c u per at ed Mat er ia l M o n um en t s , 2018 I n d i go d yed layer ed s a l v ag ed t ext iles

196

My pi l l ar shape d wo rks we re al re ady a ty pe of mo nume nt to di sc arde d mate ri al s and process, but the i de a that we c o ul d use the se o bjects for re me mbe ri ng that we are i n f ac t de e pl y con n ected to and de pe nde nt o n o ur l andsc ape , has tu rn ed i nto an o ngo i ng, e vo l vi ng bo dy o f wo rk. Discarded, o l d rags and dye pl ants may se e m un-mo nu men tal, ho we ve r the y are l o ade d wi th hu man ity ’s c o nne c ti o n to the natural e nvi ro nme nt.

Enf ol d e d l and sca p e # 8 , 2019.

Phot ogr ap h of i n d i g o d y e d , sal v age d te x ti l e s .

197

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

Sin ce I mad e the e a r l y v e r s i o ns o f t he s e wo rks b ack i n 2 0 1 5 / 1 6 , d r o ug ht s ha v e r e v e a l ed o ve r 4 0 0 0 - y ear - o ld h e ng e s i n b o t h I r e l a nd a nd S pai n, mad e n ew ly v isi b l e b e c a us e o f c l i m a t e c hange s.

In a r ecen t in te rv i e w w i t h Te x t i l e C urator y ou mentio n : " I t h i n k i t i s i mp o r t a n t t o co n side r t he c h ai n of pr o d u ct i o n f o r t h e ma t e r i als y o u choo se t o w o rk wi t h , a s we l l a s h o w t h i s r e late s t o th em es i n y ou r wo r k . W h a t i s t h e s o cial an d env i r on m en t al i m p a ct o f wh a t y o u wo rk w ith ?

As a rt i st s, w e f e e l co mp e l l e d t o ma k e , bu t w h o ma d e y ou r c h o s e n m a t e r i a l s , wh e r e t h e y ar e ma d e, an d u n de r wh a t c o n d i t i o n s a r e i m po r tan t cons i derat ion s. ” In r es po n s e to t he a b o ve , a re y o u s e e i ng more de si g n er s r eco n s i d e ri ng t he i r m a t e ri a l c hoic es du e to po ten ti a l e nvi ro nm e nt a l a nd soc ia l i mp a cts th ey m a y ha v e ha d i n t he i r m a k ing ?

It is d e fin i tel y so m e t hi ng I s e e g r o wi ng , but l o c al n etw o r k s can s o m e t i m e s b e i ns ul a r , a nd no t

e ve ryo ne has ac c e ss to the same i nf o rmation , so th e c o nve rsati o n i s o ne that c an al ways be re-framed and re -po si ti o ne d. An e nc o uragi ng tre n d is on e whe re mul ti pl e pe rspe c ti ve s e xi st i n di alogu e at o nc e , f o r e xampl e whe re sustai nabi l i ty, c ircu larity , so c i al i nj usti c e s and i ndi ge no us pe rspe ctives can al l be al i gne d.

Do y ou see a new na rra tiv e emerg in g w it hin the c rea tiv e sec tor a nd wha t do y ou t hink w e should expec t to see ov er the c oming ye ar?

T hi s ye ar saw so me re ne we d f o c us o n a ran ge of i mpo rtant to pi c s so I do n’ t se e a si ngul ar n arrative.

T he c o nc e pt o f “ de bt ae sthe ti c s” se e ms to h ave e me rge d i n the l ast f e w ye ars, o ut o f goods an d l abo ur havi ng be e n i nc re asi ngl y gl o bal i z ed leadin g to gre ate r i ne qual i ty, and I wo nde r i f decreased mo ve me nt due to the pande mi c wi l l h elp drive l o c al i z ati o n? T hi s te rm the n may take o n differen t me ani ngs, as we l l as the so c i al prac tices an d ae sthe ti c s that ari se f ro m tho se se e ki ng a more l o c al appro ac h.

L e f t . Rac hae l W e l l i sc h, I nd i go H and s at T hr e ad s of L i f e Ri ght . A B l ue L and sc ap e Series

198

You r w o r k En fo lde d L a nd s c a p e # 8 wa s i nc luded i n th e En v ir o n m ent a l C ri s i s E x hi b i t i o n a t G era ld Mo o r e Ga ller y in t he U K e a rl y i n 2020.

Ho w im po r ta n t is t he ro l e o f a rt i n i nc rea sing awar en es s a n d pro v o ki ng c o nve rsa t i o n around cl i ma te ch a n g e?

Ar t is a v ital co mpo ne nt o f a b r o a d d i a l o gue o n climate ch an ge th a t ne e d s t o b e r e c o ns t ruc te d, r efr a med an d sh ar e d i n a s m a ny wa y s a s p o ssi bl e .

It c an h e lp to ge n e r a t e e m p a t hy f o r na t ur e a n d o ur p la ce w ith i n i t. I t i s r e l e v a nt he r e t o a c k no wl e dge th e o n go i n g str u g g l e , e s p e c i a l l y wi t h r e g a rd to en ga gin g p o l icy ma k e r s .

W ha t role do y ou see a rt ha s to pla y in a d vocacy a nd c ha ng e?

Art – whi c h i nc l ude s f i ne art, musi c, film, pe rf o rmanc e , di gi tal me di a, arc hi te c ture , fash ion and l i te rature - c an be i nstruc ti ve , i nf o rmative, i nvi go rati ng and i nspi ri ng, and c an re ally h elp make the c o nve rsati o n ac c e ssi bl e i n uni qu e w ay s.

I l i ke the pe rspe c ti ve o f e c o -the o l o gi c al activist Mi c hae l S . Ho gue who de c l are s arti sts h ave a re spo nsi bi l i ty to gi ve vo i c e to “ mute thi ngs ”, su ch as the natural e nvi ro nme nt, usi ng sto ri e s, sy mbols and i mage s to re shape human pe rc e pti o n.

W here c a n we see more of y our work a nd s t ay up to da te on future exhibitions? http://www.rac hae l we l l i sc h.c o m Instagram @rac hae l _ we l l i sc h Photography - Rachael Wellisch

Tomes N i b b l i n g t h e S ky S er ies H a n d m a d e p ap er fr o m i n d i g o d yed s a lva g ed te x ti l e s ( c o t t o n )

199

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

ABOVE: ' B L U E J E A N K I N T S UGI ' B y G l e n Marti n T ayl o r @g l e nt a y l o rmarti n

A BO VE: S tudi o D ’ Arti san " NORAGI S AS HIKO" wo rk sh irt

L EF T: 11.11 - E leven | Eleven B AND ANA e asy to we ar low cu t slipo n made o f h an d spu n c o tto n dye d in n atu ral i ndi go .

ABOVE: 11.11 - El e v e n | El e v e n

BEL O W :

BADOU CH E easy to w ear lo w cu t s l i p - o n m a d e o f ha nd sp u n c o tto n d yed in na t ur a l i nd i g o . *ha n d sp u n r ef er s t o t he y a r n t ha t i s s p un b y h an d an d w o v e n o n a ha nd l o o m i n I nd i a . *na tu r al i n d i go is d y e d i n 1 0 0 % f r uc t o s e b ased f er men tatio n

L EF T: R a c h a el Wellis c h Indi go -dye d, sal vage d te xti l e s, l aye re d up a pi e c e at a ti me .

Inspi re d by the Ne o l i thi c e arthwo rks kno wn as he nge s, suc h as S to ne he nge , be l i e ve d to be si te s f o r shari ng vast kno wl e dge c ri ti c al f o r human survi val .

Image s: Rac hae l We l l i sc h www.rac hae l we l l i sc hc o m

200

11.11 - E leven | Eleven KINO an o ve rsi z e d u n isex j ac ke t made in h an dspu n o rgani c c o tto n . www.11-11.us / c o l l e c ti o ns/

KNOW T H E M A K E R S

L EF T: 11.11 - E leven | E leven L S RIN a l o o se f i tte d c l assic collar sh irt made i n hand spun cotton w ith pi n bandhani artwo rk an d dy ed in natural i ndi go .

LEFT: 11.11 - El e v e n | Ele v e n ANYTIM E an ove r gar men t / we a r it ove r a sh ir t o r a d r e s s : let it fr ee f all o r dr a p e on e o f th e lu x u r i o u s length s o f f ab r ic l i k e a scar f. Th i s is a p l ay f ul p iec e i n fo r m an d f a b r i c comb i n ati o n - th at c a n b e wo r n lik e its n a m e :an yti me. a v e r sati l e sh r u g mad e fr o m h a nd sp u n co tto n i n p at c hwo r k an d dyed in n atu r a l indigo .

The Luxury Edit

Made by skilled artisans, slowly, mindfully & to the highest quality Limited Edition ABOVE : 11.11 - E leven | Eleven B e l l ne c kl ac e - a re w earable asse mbl age s o f spi rited objects.

Eac h c harm i s m arked w ith pati nas o f ti me's sw eetest mo me nts thre aded togeth er wi th c o ntrasti ng silk pipin g.

Eac h pi e c e has i ts ow n ly rical me l o dy, a o ne o f a kin d - u n iqu e sto ry. Pai r thi s ecru silk bell ne c kl ac e wi th a si mple look an d add a twi nkl e to each step.

L EF T:

ABOVE: S T UDIO D ’ AR TI SAN

11.11 - E leven | E leven Handmade ro ute c ase that beau tifu lly narrate s the j o urne y o f 100% kh adi de ni m. Eac h mate ri al i s e xquisitely pre se nte d wi thi n the c ase but can easily be re mo ve d i f de si re d and th e case u sed to c o ntai n j e we l ry o r c raf ts. Th e exterior o f the c ase i s a handmade n atu ral in digo yard-dye d c hambray khadi fabric.

Vi a Ki ngpi ns sto re .

201

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

WHAT CAN WE D O TO H EL P AT HOME ?

C l othe s was hi n g l i n k e d to ‘ p erva s iv e’ p la sti c po l l u ti o n i n th e A rctic Po l ye st er f i b r es that injure marine life wer e fo und i n s e a water acro s s region T h e A r ctic i s “p e r v asiv e l y ” p o l l ut e d b y m i c r o p l a sti c fib r es th at mo st l ik el y c o m e f r o m t he wa s hi ng o f s y nth etic clo th es b y p e o p l e i n E ur o p e a nd N o r t h A mer ic a, r e se ar ch h as f o und .

T h e m ost co mp r eh en si v e s t ud y t o d a t e f o und t he m icr oplasti cs in 9 6 o f 9 7 s e a wa t e r s a m p l e s t a k en from a cr o ss th e p o l ar r e g i o n. Mo r e t ha n 9 2 % o f the m icr oplasti cs w e r e fib r e s , a nd 7 3 % o f t he s e we re made of polyester an d w e r e t he s a m e wi d t h a nd c o l o u rs as th ose u sed in clo th es. Mo s t o f t he s a m p l e s we r e take n from 3-8 me tr es b e lo w t he s ur f a c e , whe r e m uc h mari ne life feed s.

O ther r ece n t an al y si s e s t i m a t e d t ha t 3 ,5 0 0 t n p l asti c m icr ofibr e s fr o m cl o th e s wa s hi ng i n t he U S a nd C a nad a end ed u p in the s e a e a c h y e a r , whi l e m ode l l i ng s uggested p l asti c d u m p e d i n t he s e a s a r o und t h e UK w a s c ar r ie d to th e Ar ct i c wi t hi n t wo y e a r s .

T h e r esea r ch er s f o u n d p l a s t i c f i b r e s a t t he no r t h po l e .

W ith p la sti c r e cen tly di s c o v e r e d a t t he d e e p e s t po i nt on Ear th , th e M ar i an a T r e nc h, a nd t he p e a k o f Mo unt E ver est, it is clear h u m a ni t y ’ s l i t t e r ha s p o l l ut e d the en tir e plan e t. I t i s k n o wn t o i nj ur e wi l d l i f e t ha t mi stake it fo r food . Pe o p l e also c o ns um e m i c r o p l a s t i c s v i a f o o d a nd water , an d b r e athe t he m i n, a l t ho ug h t he he al th im pact is n o t yet k n o wn.

Mu c h m or e w ate r f lo w s i nt o t he A r c t i c f r o m t he Atl anti c th a n the Paci fic, an d the ne w r e s e a r c h f o und hi ghe r c onc en tr ati o n s o f th e m i c r o p l a s t i c f i b r e s ne a r e r the A tla n tic , as w el l as l o n g e r a nd l e s s d e g r a d e d f i bre s.

“We’r e loo k i n g at a d o m i na nc e o f A t l a nt i c i np ut s, whi c h m e an s sour ce s o f te x ti l e f i b r e s i n t he N o r t h A t l a nti c from E u r o p e an d No r th A m e r i c a a r e l i k e l y t o b e dri vi ng th e con tami n ati o n i n t he A r c t i c O c e a n,” s a i d P e te r

202

Ro s s , a t O c e a n W i s e C o nse rvati o n Asso c i ati o n i n C anada, who l e d the stu dy . “ W i t h t he s e p o l y e s te r f i bre s, we ’ ve e sse nti al l y c re ate d a c l o ud thro ugh ou t th e wo r l d ’ s o c e a ns . ”

“ The A rctic is , y et a ga in , a t t h e rec eiv in g en d of p ollu t an ts from the s outh,” h e sa id . Toxic c h emic a l p ollu t a n t s in cl u d i n g me rcury and PCBs a re well kn own a t t h e p ole. “It ’s c ert a i n l y caus e for concern , wh en we rea lise t h a t t h e In u it p eop l e r el y very heavily on a q u a t ic f ood s.”

T he 3 - 8 m l a y e r o f s e a wate r i s “ a bi o l o gi c al l y i mpo rtant are a whe re we f i nd p hy t o p l a nk t o n, z o o pl ankto n, smal l f i sh, bi g f i sh, se abi rds and marin e m a m m a l s , f o r a g i ng l o o ki ng f o r f o o d” , sai d Ro ss. L arge ani mal s suc h as tu rtles, a l b a t r o s s , s e a l s a n d whal e s are kno wn to be ki l l e d by pl asti c and he said th ere wa s no r e a s o n t o t h i nk i t was di f f e re nt f o r the smal l e r o ne s.

T he r e s e a r c h i s p ubl i she d i n the j o urnal Nature C o mmuni c ati o ns, and took 71 ne a r - s ur f a c e s a m p le s stre tc hi ng f ro m No rway to the no rth po l e and th en in to t he C a na d i a n H i g h Arc ti c . Ano the r 26 sampl e s we re take n at de pths dow n to 1 ,0 0 0 m i n t he B e a u f o rt S e a, to the no rth o f Al aska. “ A do mi na nce o f po l yes ter w a s evid en t th ro u gh o u t th e w a ter co lu mn , h ig hl i ghti ng t he per v a s i v e s pr ea d o f s yn th etic fib res th ro u gh o u t th e w a ters o f th e Arc ti c O cea n, ” t he r e s e a r che rs c o nc l ude d. T he y f o und an ave rage o f 40 mi c roplastic p a r t i c l e s p e r c ub i c me tre o f wate r.

T he r e s e a r c he r s s a i d the type o f pl asti c f o und at di f f e re nt de pths i n t h e o c e a ns wo ul d d e p end o n the de nsi ty o f the pl asti c , wi th buo yant po l y sty ren e l i k e l y t o f l o a t a nd de nse PVC mo re l i ke l y to si nk to the o c e an f l o o r. Poly ester i s c l o s e r t o ne ut r a l buo yanc y. Onl y a smal l pro po rti o n o f the f i bre s f ou n d are t ho ug ht t o b e f r o m f i shi ng ge ar, whi c h use di f f e re nt pl asti c s. It i s po ssible th at s o m e o f t he f i b r e s we re c arri e d to the Arc ti c by wi nds. “ I t i s i m p r e s s i v e how many sampl e s the y we re abl e to take f ro m suc h i nho s p i t a b l e p l a c e s, ” sai d Eri k van S e bi l l e , at Utre c ht Uni ve rsi ty i n the N e t he r l a nd s . “ T he re sul ts sho w agai n pl asti c i s no w o mni pre se nt. T he qu estion s ho ul d p e r ha p s b e c o me ‘ whe re do n’ t we f i nd pl asti c ye t? ’ ” “ P l a s t i c a ny whe r e in the e nvi ro nme nt i s an atro c i ty, but i n the Arc ti c it’s p r o b a b l y m o r e ha rmf ul than i n mo st o the r pl ac e s, ” he sai d. “ T hat’ s becau se it c o m e s o n t o p o f t he dramati c and dange ro us c l i mate c hange that the region a nd i t s e c o s y s t e m s are e xpe ri e nc i ng. Po l l uti o n c o ul d be the pro ve rbi al drop t ha t t i p s t he b uc k e t, as we say i n D utc h.”

Ro s s s a i d i nd i v i d ua l s, c l o the s manuf ac ture rs, waste wate r tre atme nt compan ies a nd g o v e r nm e nt s c o ul d al l he l p ste m the f l o w o f mi c ro pl asti c s i nto t h e Arctic: “ W e a l l ha v e a ro l e to pl ay. It’ s no t abo ut bl ami ng te xti l e s, o r blamin g th e p e t r o c he m i c a l c o mpl e x. It’ s abo ut e ve rybo dy ac kno wl e dgi ng that th is is n ot so me thi ng that we want to se e i n the wo rl d’ s ocean s.”

V a n S e b i l l e s a i d: “ We co u ld h a rd ly go o u t a n d a b o u t w ith o u t clo th es , c oul d we?

Bu t w e s h o u ld th in k a b o u t b etter texti l es.”

O r i g i n a l a r t i cl e p u b l i s h ed b y T h e G u a r d i a n | 1 3 t h Ja n u a ry 2021 W r i t t en b y D a m i a n C a r r i n g t o n , En vi r o n me n t e d it or Rea d t h e fu l l a rt icle here

W e ha v e hi g hl i g ht e d a f e w i nno vati o ns o n o ur f o l l o wi ng page that he l p redu ce m i c r o f i b r e p o l l ut i o n f ro m c l o the s and te xti l e s i n the ho me ' s washi ng cy cle.

T he s e d o no t s o l v e the pro bl e m i n any way but c an he l p re duc e the number of m i c r o f i b r e s e nt e r i ng o ur wate rways whi c h i s e sse nti al .

203

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

L A U NDR Y CA RE FRO M ARO UND THE W O RLD

Planet Care Filter

The Dirt Company

The Guppyfriendly Bag

EUROPE

AUSTRALIA

EUROPE

Stop microfibre pollution, starting at home, by using Planet Care's easy, affordable and practical washing machine filter.

Ev er ytime we was h o ur clo thes they she d f i b re s .

These fibr es ar e a m aj o r source o f micr o p l as ti c s po llutio n in o ur o c e ans .

The D i r t C o m p a n y w a s f o und e d o n t h e b e l i e f t h a t the y co u l d m a k e s u s t a i n a b l e ho us eh o l d p r o d u c t s , t h a t w o rk , s o m e t h i n g p e o p l e c o u l d f al l i n l o v e w i t h .

W e f or m u l a t e d a p r o d u c t us i ng p u r e a n d p o w e r f u l i ngre d i e n t s a n d b a r e m i ni m u m p a c k a g i n g , t o d e l i ve r a n i n n o v a t i v e , u s e f u l , and th o u g h t f u l p r o d u c t , that' s g o o d f o r t h e e a r t h , a n d will sit damn pretty on your w as hi n g m a c h i n e .

T h e G u p p y f r i e n d W a shing Ba g i s t h e f i r s t s c i e n t if ica lly a p p r o v e d s o l u t i o n t o p revent m i c r o f i b e r s f r o m e nt ering r i v e r s a n d o c e a n s . It result s i n f e w e r f i b r e l o s s e s a nd t hus h e l p s y o u r g a r m e n t s la st l o n g e r . T h o s e m i c r of ibers t h a t b r e a k d u r i n g w a shing a r e c a p t u r e d i n s i d e t he ba g.

T h e G u p p y F r i e n d l y t e a m link i n n o v a t i v e i d e a s s u c h a s t he Guppyfriend Washing Bag w i t h e d u c a t i o n a n d c o r pora t e d i a l o g u e s t o sprea d k n o w l e d g e a b o u t (micro) p l a s t i c p o l l ut ion.

T h e p r o f i t s f r o m t h e sa le of t h e G u p p y f r i e n d W a s h i ng B a g g o t o S T OP ! M i c r o W a s t e a nd t h e S T OP ! P l a s t i c Ac a demy r a i s e s a w a r e n e s s a bout ( m i c r o ) p l a s t i c p o l l u t i on a nd e d u c a t e s s t u d e n t s , a dult s, a n d i n d u s t r y p a r t n e r s a bout t h e p r oblem.

Pl a net Ca res filte rs he l p s to p 90 % o f them.

V i deo URl: https ://yo utu. b e / V MdFIIWL7AM

w ww.planetca re .o rg

204

www.thedirtcompany.com.au

w w w . e n . g u p p y f r i e n d.com/

L A U N D RY C A RE F RO M A RO U N D T H E W O R L D

Woolzies

Steamery

Earth before Plastic

NEW ZEALAND

EUROPE

AUSTRALIA

Woolzies, dryer balls naturally soften laundry and reduce wrinkles. They bounce around inside the dryer, creating space between laundry items.

This allows the hot air to circulate, reducing drying time by up to 25% and saving you electricity and money.

They are super quiet and reduce static build-up. Woolzies dryer balls can be used over and over again as they last for up to 1,000 loads.

Consider if you even need to use a dryer to dry your clothes. Line dry where you can.

S te a m e r y , a c l e v e r , c o s t e f f ec t i v e , a n d s u s t a i n a b l e o p ti o n t o f a b r i c s o f t e n e r s a n d p l as t i c d r y b a l l s . T h e d r y e r b al l s w i l l c u t y o u r t u m b l e d ry t i m e a n d r e m o v e s t a t i c e l e ct r i c i t y . S i n c e t h e b a l l s make your fabrics softer, the re i s n o n e e d f o r a l i q u i d fabric softener.

M a r i n e -g r a d e w i r e c l ot hes pegs.

G r a d e 316 M a r i n e G r a de S t a i n l e s s S t e e l W i r e C l o t hes U n l i k e p l a s t i c p e g s , t h ese w i r e p e g s w i l l l a s t a l o n g t ime a n d w o n ’ t b r e a k d o w n d ue t o t h e h a r s h Au s t r a l i a n h e a t , or c o l d E u r o p e a n w i n t e r s nor w i l l t h e y f a l l a p a r t i n y our h a n d s . T h e e n t i r e s t a i nless s t e e l w i r e p e g i s m a d e u p of j u s t o n e s i n g l e p i e c e o f wire.

https:// wo o l z i e s . c o m /

w w w .s t e a m e r y s t o c k h o l m . c o m

If y o u ’ d l i k e t o l e a v e your p e g s o n t h e c l o t h e s l i n e a f t er y o u ’ v e r e m o v e d y o u r l a u n dry f r o m t h e l i n e o r y o u live w i t h i n p r o x i m i t y t o t h e o cea n S t a i n l e s s S t e e l – M arine G r a d e 316 a r e y o u r best o p tion.

h t t p s : / / e o r t h . c o m.a u/

Steamery, Limited Edition Thi s hand - s te am e r , C i r r u s N o . 2 – W h i t e , i s a s u s t a i n a b l e a n d e f f i c i e n t al te rnati ve to b o t h i r o n i n g a n d w a s h i n g . Yo u r c l o t h e s w i l l b e w r i n k l e -f r e e, s m o o th and f res h i n n o t i m e . T h e h o t s t e a m a l s o r e m o v e s b a d s m e l l s , s hal l o w d i rt and b a c t e r i a .

http s ://s te am e r y s t o c k h o l m . c o m

205

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

ASK THE INDUSTRY It’s bee n 20 ye a rs si nc e t he ic o nic mome nt B r it ne y S p e a r s’ an d Justi n Ti m be rl a k e st e p p e d o ut o n t he r e d c a r p e t in coordi na te d dou bl e d e nim a t t ir e . W e sur e ha ve c o me a long way over the pa st two d e c a d e s a nd so ha s t he p r od uc t io n an d de si gn of de ni m , w hic h ma k e s y o u t hink – w he r e w ill de ni m be in a no t he r t w o d e c a d e s?

Wh a t wi l l 2040 l ook l ik e a nd w ha t k ind o f d e nim w ill w e b e desi gni n g, p r od uc ing a nd w e a r ing?

Maybe we won’t own a ny p a ir s o f je a ns a t a ll, t hr ough ne w bu si ne ss m ode l s ’ o w ne r ship w ill b e a d ist a nt me mo r y .

Wi l l a l l n e w j ea ns be ma d e f r om t he hist or y o f o ld je a ns?

Wh a te ve r the fu ture d o e s ho ld , it w ill b e b e c a use o f our dec i s i o ns a nd a c t ions t od a y .

R awAss e m bl y as ke d i nd ust r y inno va t or s, d e signe r s, t e xt ile m i l l s an d thou ght l e a d e r s in t he r e a lm of sust a ina b ilit y . . .

What do you hope the denim industry looks like in 2040?

206

Cédri c Vanhoeck

K e rr y B an n ig a n

Fo u n de r Re g e ne r a t i o n B V - Re s o rte c s

Fo unde r, C o nsc i o us Fashi o n C ampaign

I n 2 0 4 0 a l l d e ni m s wi l l b e f u l l y c i rc ul ar, tr ace a b l e a nd m o d ul a r : ( r e ) made o ut o f 1 0 0 % up - a nd r e c y c l e d m ate ri al s and mo r e i m p o r t a nt l y m a d e f o r r ec yc l i ng. T he w h o le d e ni m v a l ue c ha i n wi l l be c l o se d an d f ul l y t r a ns p a r e nt wi t h re gards to materi a l c o nt e nt a nd f i ni s he s . D e ni ms wi l l b e co ns i d e r e d o ne o f t he m o s t sustai nabl e gar me nt s i n 2 0 4 0 .

A se c to r that has trai l bl az e d i nnovation s to ac ti o n so l uti o ns f o r so c i al , e c on omic, and e nvi ro nme ntal c hange thro ughou t th e D e c ade o f Ac ti o n. As a l e ade r i n the space, the de ni m i ndustry i n 2040 i s c i rc ular, ju st and re si l i e nt c o mpl e me nti ng i t' s n atu ral surro undi ngs and no t de pl e ti ng o f n atu ral re so urc e s. Wo rke rs ac ro ss the en tire de ni m val ue c hai n are e mpl o ye d in fair wo rki ng c o ndi ti o ns, wage s and thri v e in an e qui tabl e so c i e ty.

Francoi s Souchet Le ad , Ma k e F a s hi o n C i r c ul a r , El len Ma c A r t hur F o und a t i o n I f th e d e ni m i nd us t r y a d o p t s t he pri nc i pl e s o f a c i r c ul a r e c o no m y , b y 2 0 40 j e ans wi l l b e d e s i g ne d a nd m a d e t o b e d u rabl e , usi ng o r gani c , r e g e ne r a t i v e , o r r e c y c l ed mate ri al s, as w e l l a s s a f e d y e s a nd f i ni s hes, to e nsure min i m um i m p a c t o n t he e nv i r o nme nt. T ho se j ean s wi l l b e us e d m o r e , b y o ne pe rso n o r man y, t hr o ug h a m o d e l l i k e r e sal e , re pai r o r r em a k i ng . E v e nt ua l l y , o nc e the y c an no l o n ge r b e wo r n, t he j e a ns wi l l be c o l l e c te d an d re c y c l e d t o m a k e ne w j e a n s.

Jo hn Cordi l i s Co - Fo und e r N o B o d y D e ni m Simp l i f i e d a nd b e t ho ug ht f r o m a c o nsume r l ev el . T he p ur p o s e o f ha v i ng be l l s and w h i st l e s o n d e ni m i s o n i t s way o ut. It' s b e co m i ng a m ul t i p ur p o s e s t a p l e pi e c e that sh o u l d ha v e a l o ng l i f e . T ha t ' s way i se e d e n i m f o r d a y a nd ni g ht

Ja me s B art le Fo undi ng C EO, Outl and D e ni m B y 2040, i t' s my ho pe that brands w h o are ge nui ne abo ut usi ng the i r p rodu cts to c re ate go o d i n the wo rl d are th e on es thri vi ng, and tho se who are no t do n ot have a pl ac e i n the marke t.

A r ian n e & Joa n n a En g e lbe r g T he Ne w D e ni m Pro j e c t by Iri s T e xtiles We e nvi si o n a sustai nabl e f uture w ith c o -c re ati o n f ro m di f f e re nt f i e l ds an d mi ndse ts. Ne w ge ne rati o ns e xc i te u s. W e be l i e ve thro ugh ti me we have de v eloped a de e pe r unde rstandi ng and appreciation f o r e mpathy, c o nsc i o usne ss, and c reativity .

T he se thre e basi c attri bute s have the pow er to , i n ti me , c hange o ur c o urse , and perh aps gui de us to the mo st i nno vati ve and givin g phase we have e ve r se e n. Al l e l e men ts in a share d e c o no my be l o ng to ge the r, and mu st stri ve f o r the pre se rvati o n o f the en tire e c o syste m. Our syste m i s al l abou t th e se arc h f o r thi s symme try, and a c e l ebration o f bal anc e . We must sl o w do wn, with th e de si re to dri ve po si ti ve c hange i n grain ed i n the D NA o f e ve rythi ng we do : the w ay w e de si gn, ho w we l i ve , why we wo rk.

207

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

N e h a Celly Desi gn e r Blue h emia

Elois e R app &

D e si gne r, S ustai nabl e T e xti l e C o nsul tant – Push Pul l T e xti l e s

The d e n i m in d u s t r y i n 2 0 4 0 , a c c o r d i ng to me w o u ld lo o k l i k e a ho l i s t i c i nd us t r y, wh er e p e o p l e wo ul d c a r e f o r p e o p l e a nd for th e p lan e t. W e wo ul d no l o ng e r b e su stai n ab l e fo r t he s a k e o f i t b e i ng , a nd d o t h e go o d w o r k f o r m a r k e t i ng , b ut o u r inte n t w o u ld b e p ur e r a nd t he g o a l wi ll b e clear e r . Wi th t he g o a l t o m a k e t he n oto r i o u s d en im m a nuf a c t ur i ng , c l e a ne r at ev er y ste p ; t he who l e s up p l y c ha i n , tr an sp ar en t; an d e v e r y o ne i nv o l v e d f r o m mak e r to co n sum e r , ha p p y ! B y t he y e ar 2 0 4 0 , w e w o u ld n' t ha v e a ny c ho i c e , b ut t o figur e o u t th e w a y t o ' c l o s e t he l o o p ' i n t he most ef ficien t w a y . T he c y c l e wo ul d s hi f t fr om tak e- mak e-we a r - wa s t e t o t a k e - m a k e wear - r ecycle- mak e a g a i n.

Fi rstl y, I ho pe that by 2040 we ' re re f e rri ng to te xti l e i ndustri e s as c o mmuni ti e s o r e c o l o gi e s. I thi nk thi s re f l e c ts the urge nt syste mati c c hange that has to take pl ac e by the n. D e ni m i s suc h a pri me c andi date f o r re i magi ni ng i n the f uture . It' s ro bust and uni ve rsal i n i ts appe al , and f ro m a dye r' s pe rspe c ti ve , i t has thi s i ntri nsi c re l ati o nshi p to i ndi go . I thi nk thi s re l ati o nshi p has the c apac i ty to transf o rm o ur partne rshi p wi th de ni m, and wi th c o tto n mo re bro adl y. I' m i nspi re d by i nno vati ve o rgani sati o ns l i ke Inde ni um S c ho o l o f Re spo nsi bl e D e si gn i n Indi a, who are i nve sti gati ng the i nte rse c ti o n o f de ni m, natural i ndi go , de si gn phi l o so phy and l o c al e c o syste ms.

Anne Oudard

Eva En g e le n

Sust ain ab l e D e n i m D e s i g ne r & C o ns ul t a nt

S ustai nabi l i ty & Pro duc t – HNS T

I h o p e th at i n 2 0 4 0 , t he d e ni m i nd us t ry will b e co mp lete l y p l a s t i c f r e e . I wi s h t o r emo v e p o ly este r a nd e l a s t a ne f r o m a ll jea n s. Th ese co m p o ne nt s a r e ha r m f ul f or th e p l an e t an d o ur he a l t h, we d o n' t ne e d th em i n o u r jean s . I a m a l s o ho p e f ul t ha t we w ill h av e co m p l e t e t r a ns p a r e nc y o n t he cotto n su p p l y cha i n, b e i ng a b l e t o t r a c e it fr om f ar m to cu s t o m e r . T hi s wi l l a l s o a l l o w u s to p r i o r i tise r e g e ne r a t i v e a g r i c ul t ur a l p r actices th at co nt r i b ut e t o i m p r o v i ng t he q u al ity o f o u r s o i l s . A nd f i na l l y , I wo ul d love to el imi n at e wa s t e f r o m t he e nt i r e p r od u ctio n lin e . A l l t he we a v i ng m i l l s a nd th e gar men t ma nuf a c t ur e r s wi l l b e f ul l y cir c u lar , r e- u si ng e v e r y b i t o f f i b r e or cu tti n g scr ap as w e l l a s r e c y c l i ng o l d j e a ns .

I e nvi si o n the 2040 de ni m se c to r to be f ul l y c i rc ul ar, waste i s e l i mi nate d and i nno vati o n has al l o we d the se c to r to de c o upl e gro wth f ro m re so urc e de pl e ti o n. I si nc e re l y ho pe that by 2040 the se c to r has transf o rme d i nto a re spe c tf ul and c o l l abo rati ve e c o syste m whe re we al th, ri sk and suc c e ss are e ve nl y di stri bute d thro ugh o pe n and c l o se c o l l abo rati o n.

208

Fo und e r

of

N e c e . G e ne

W hat d o you h o p e t h e d en i m i nd u s t r y l o o k s li k e i n 2 0 4 0 ?

209

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

T R A NSFO R M E R S F O UN DAT I O N DI GI TAL E V E N T Wha t d o e s R e gen e r a t i v e A g r i c ul t ur e ha v e to do wi th appare l and de ni m? C l o thi ng i s i nheren tly an agr icu ltu r al p r o d u c t . Y o ur j e a ns c o m e f r o m se e ds that we re gro wn o n a f arm, re ady to be spun in to y arn s an d wo v en i n to f ab r i c . W e wa nt t o unp a c k r ege ne rati ve agri c ul ture ’ s pro mi se s f o r a ho pe f ul f ut u re made of car b o n p o sitiv e t e x t i l e s .

R egister f o r Ep .4 “R e g e ne r a t i v e A g r i c ul t ur e & D e ni m” o n Fe bruary 16th at 1 p.m. C ET , whe re we ’ll discu ss #r egene r ativ e ag, # c a r b o ns e q ue s t r a t i o n, s o i l he al th, and #bi o di ve rsi ty, and what thi s me ans for th e d en im su p p l y ch ain.

1 6 th F eb r u ar y 2 0 2 1 R egister v i a th ei r w e b s i t e o r I ns t a g r a m an d c an b e v iew ed o n- d e m a nd a f t e r t he e v e nt.

210

WWW. T R A N S F O R M ERSF OUNDAT ION.ORG/

DI G I TAL E V ENT S & EXHIBITIO NS J E A NS MU SEU M | SWIT ER L A ND T h e Je an s M u seu m i n Zur i c h i s t he wo r l d ’ s onl y brandin d ep e n d e n t mu s e um f o r he a v i l y f a d e d de ni m. It is cu r r en tly h o me t o o v e r 1 4 . 0 0 0 j e a ns a nd de ni m jackets. All n atu r a l l y f a d e d .

T h e Jean s M u seu m wa s f o und e d b y Rue d i Ka rre r, al so known as th e Sw is s J e a ns F r e a k . Rue d i wa s bo rn i n the Swiss Al p s i n 1 9 5 9. H e f e l l i n l o v e wi t h d e ni m i n 1973 when h i s fami ly r e c e i v e d t wo p a i r s o f L e v i ’ s j e ans i n a c lothi n g d o n atio n p a r c e l .

Give y o u r w o r n - o ut j e a ns e t e r na l l i f e – d o na te the m to T h e Je an s M u se u m .

Loc atio n : Köc h listr asse 2 5 , 80 0 4 Zür i c h, S wi t z e r l a nd Open o n r eq u est o nl y - C o nt a c t v i a t he i r we bsi te www.j ean smu seu m . o r g /

Rue di Karre r i n T he Je an s M u seu m.

S P I E L Z E UG W E L T E N M US E UM | BAS E L D e ni m i s an e sse nti al part o f many people’s basic wardro be . Al mo st e ve ryo ne o wns a t least on e de ni m i te m. T o day, ho we ve r, de ni m i s mu ch more than j ust a f abri c f o r c l o thi ng. One migh t th in k that de ni m and art have no thi ng to do w ith each o the r. Far f ro m i t. Many arti sts aro un d th e w orld have di sc o ve re d de ni m as a mate ri al in its ow n ri ght. T hi s uni que spe c i al e xhi bi ti o n sh ow s th e ve rsati l i ty and hi sto ry o f thi s po pular material.

It i nc l ude s pai nti ngs by T he Maste r of th e Blu e Je ans f ro m the e nd o f the l ate 17th cen tu ry , j e ans, de ni m j ac ke ts, bags, sho e s, fu rn itu re and e ve ryday o bj e c ts, as we l l as scu lptu res or i nstal l ati o ns suc h as T he S e c re t Garden by Ian B e rry and the Panthe rs by Af ran ( M ilan Art & Eve nts C e nte r) .

In thi s e xhi bi ti o n, whi c h f e ature s approximately 125 o bj e c ts, vi si to rs are take n o n a jou rn ey thro ugh the f ac e ts of thi s fascin atin g mate ri al . T hi s spe c i al e xhi bi ti o n w as created i n c o l l abo rati o n wi th Ms. L i z a S no ok from th e Vi rtual S ho e Muse um i n T he Hague. Th ey h ave suc c e e de d i n c o l l e c ti ng and bri ngi ng togeth er i te ms o n l o an f ro m vari o us Euro pe an mu seu ms, pri vate c o l l e c to rs and i nstal l ati o ns f rom galleries and arti sts al l o ve r the wo rl d. T he e x h ibition can o nl y be se e n i n thi s f o rm i n B ase l ..

B l ue f abri c wi th a hi sto ry 17 Oc to be r 2020 – 5 Apri l 2021 www.spi e l z e ug-we l te n-muse um-basel.ch

211

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

D I G I TA L EV ENT S & EX HIBITIO NS M AKING NU NO | L O ND O N MAKING N U N O - J a p a ne s e T e xt i l e I nno v a t io n f ro m S udō R e ik o . Th i s ex hi b i t i o n s ho wc a s e s t he i n no vati ve wor k of Jap an ese te xt i l e d e s i g ne r S ud ō Re i k o, who i s re n own ed fo r p u sh i ng b o und a r i e s o f t e x t i l e p ro duc ti o n an d c h amp io n in g ne w m e t ho d s o f s us tai nabl e man u fa ctu r in g. Su d ō ha s b e e n t he d e s i g n di re c to r of lea d i n g tex tile d e s i g n f i r m N uno f o r o v e r 30 ye ars an d is a me mb e r o f t he J a p a n D e s i g n C o m m i tte e . He r fa b r ic d esign s co mbi ne J a p a ne s e c r a f t t r a d i t i o ns wi th n ew en gi n e er i n g tech ni q ue s a nd unus ua l c o m bi nati o ns of d iver se mater i als s uc h a s s i l k , ha nd - m a de washi (Ja p an ese p ap e r ), n y l o n t a p e a nd t he r m o p l a s t i c .

O r igina lly d esign e d b y a r t i s t i c d i r e c t o r S a i t ō S e i i c hi of Pa n o r amati k s ( fo r m e r l y Rhi z o m a t i k s A r c hi te c ture ) , MAKING N U N O Jap ane s e T e xt i l e I nno v a t i o n f ro m S udō R eiko in cl u d e s l ar g e - s c a l e i ns t a l l a t i o ns hi g hl i ghti ng th e m an u factu r i n g p r o c e s s e s us e d i n S ud ō ’ s w o rk.

Pr od u ced i n co llab o ra t i o n wi t h t he C e nt r e f o r He ri tage , Ar ts an d Tex tile (CHA T ) i n H o ng Ko ng , t hi s e xhi bi ti o n exp an d s o n th e su c c e s s f ul s ho w i n 2 0 1 9 c u rate d by T a kah ash i M i zu k i , Ex e c ut i v e D i r e c t o r a nd C hi e f C urato r of CHA T. Usin g a v a r i e t y o f t e c hni q ue s , f r om washi d yein g to ch emical l a c e e m b r o i d e r y i ns p i r e d by ro l l s of p ap er , e ach i n stal l a t i o n i s a c c o m p a ni e d b y drawi ngs an d ske tch es, alo n g s i d e r a w m a t e r i a l s , a nd de si gn p r ototyp es.

Addin g fu r th er d e p t h t o t he e x hi b i t i o n, Japan H ou se L o n d o n e x am i ne s t he m e s o f s us t a i nabi l i ty o f mater ia ls, r egi o n al m a nuf a c t ur i ng a nd t r a d i t i o ns and cr aftm an sh ip w ith i n t he wi d e v a r i e t y o f S ud ō ’s wo rk.

6 Febr uar y – 1 6 M ay 2 0 2 1 Location: Jap an H o u s e 1 0 1 -1 1 1 K e n sin gto n H i g h S t r e e t , L o nd o n W 8 5S A * T h e op e n i n g o f th is e x hi b i t i o n i s s l i g ht l y d e l a ye d due to lockd o w n r estr ict i o ns . p l e a s e c he c k t he i r we bsi te for u p d ate s

Im a g e : S udō Re i ko, J a pa n House

S P E C T R UM AN EXPLORATION OF COLOUR | MELBOURNE C o l o ur i s c e ntral to humanki nd’ s be i ng. It fu n ction s at a subl i mi nal l e ve l to de f i ne the way w e perceive the wo rl d and the way we f e e l . C o l ou r is in n ate to arti sti c prac ti c e and i ts po we r to commu n icate c an e vo ke vi sc e ral re spo nse s. A rtists h ave e xpe ri me nte d wi th c o l o ur si nc e the f irst pigmen ts we re e xtrac te d o ut o f the e arth. T he man u factu rin g o f c o l o urs and the i r natural o r synthetic makeu p, be i t arti st’ s pi gme nts, c e rami c gl azes or textile dye s, has e vo l ve d but the f undame n tal emotive po we r o f c o l o ur re mai ns. It re so nates w ith ou r se nse s, vi sual l y, i nte l l e c tual l y and e m otion ally .

S pe c trum i s an e xpl o rati o n o f c o l o ur th rou gh th e NGV C o l l e c ti o n, taki ng the magni f i c en t sparklin g c ut-gl ass c e i l i ng o f the Gre at Hal l as the in spiration f o r the c o l o ur pal e tte . T he e xhi bi tion is draw n f ro m ac ro ss the C o l l e c ti o n, f ro m antiqu ity to th e pre se nt, and pre se nts a bro ad se l e c t ion of w orks ac ro ss a range o f me di a. T he e xhi bi ti o n in vestigates the hi sto ry and arti sti c use o f twe lve differen t c o l o urs. Eac h o f the e xhi bi ti o n’ s sh ow cases e xpl o re s a si ngl e c o l o ur, the se l e c tion of w orks c ho se n to i l l ustrate the hi sto ry o f the colou r, from i ts e xo ti c o ri gi ns and trade , to i ts manu factu re an d symbo l i sm ac ro ss ti me and c ul ture .

NGV Inte rnati o nal L e ve l 2, D e c o rati ve Arts Passage Fre e e ntry 19 D e c 20 – 29 Aug 21 Ope n 10am–5pm dai l y A f re e ti c ke t i s re qui re d to vi si t NGV In tern ation al.

212

I m a g e C r e d i t : NGV

FASHIONED FR O M NAT U R E | SH E N Z H E N D e si gn So ciety , t he V & A a nd C hi na N a t i o nal Si lk M u seu m P r e s e nt F a s hi o ne d f r o m N ature i n Sh en zh e n Fash i o n ed fr o m N a t ur e i s t he f i r s t e x hi bi ti o n h o ste d b y D es i g n S o c i e t y d e d i c a t e d t o te xti l e s an d fash io n , a nd e xp a nd s o n t he o r i g i n al V& A ex h i b itio n n ar r a t i v e wi t h a c o m p l e m e ntary ne w se ctio n o n Ch i ne s e f a s hi o n a nd t e x t i l e s. Exhi bi ts ar e d r aw n f r o m t he V & A a nd C hi na N a t io nal Si lk M u seu m’ s e xt e ns i v e c o l l e c t i o ns a l ongsi de inte r n ati o n al l o a ns .

Th e V& A h o ld s t he U K’ s na t i o na l c o l l e c ti o n o f tex tiles an d f a s hi o n a nd ha s o ne o f t he l arge st an d mo st co m p r e he ns i v e c o l l e c t i o ns o f dre ss in th e w o r l d . W he n F a s hi o ne d f r o m N a t ure p r emier e d i n L o nd o n, i t r e c e i v e d o v e r 170, 000 v i si to r s. Si mi la r l y , C hi na N a t i o na l S i l k M use um i s inte r n ati o n ally r e no wne d f o r i t s r e s e a r ch aro und h i sto r ic te x ti le s . I n r e c e nt y e a r s , i t ha s be c o me a n ew l an d mar k f o r t he f a s hi o n c r o wd w i th it s u n i q u e gal l e r i e s f o r C hi ne s e a nd W e ste rn fa sh i o n an d te xt i l e a r t s . D e s i g n S o c i e t y i nvi te d Ed ith Ch eu n g S a i M a y , a c o ns ul t a nt a t Chi na N atio n al Silk M us e um , t o g ue s t - c ur a t e t he ne w se ctio n Fash io ne d f r o m N a t ur e i n C hi na: T he n an d N o w , sp o t l i g ht i ng t he e x t e ns i v e hi s to ry and co n temp o r ar y i nno v a t i o n o f C hi ne s e f a shi o n and tex tiles.

Fash i o n ed fr o m na t ur e f e a t ur e s p r e c i o us gar me n ts an d a c c e s s o r i e s f r o m a c r o s s fi ve co n tin e n ts, inc l ud i ng a r e p l i c a o f t he Y o ngz he ng Emp e r o r ’ s ( 1 6 7 8 - 1 7 3 5 ) d r a g o n r o b e wo v e n wi th r eal go ld th r ea d s , a p a i r o f g l o v e s f r o m the e arl y 1 6 0 0 s th at ar e i nt r i c a t e l y e m b r o i d e r e d wi th w h eat sh eav es , b i r d s a nd f l o we r s , a nd a 1780s man ’ s w ai stco a t e m b r o i d e r e d wi t h a p a tte rn o f p lay fu l macaq ue m o nk e y s . N a t ur e ’ s wi de -rangi ng inf lu e n ce i s al s o s e e n i n m a t e r i a l s , hi g hl i ghte d b y a p air o f b o o t s m a d e b y t he H e z he pe o pl e fro m f ish sk in i n 2 0 1 8 , a 1 9 t h- c e nt ur y dre ss d eco r ated w i th o v e r 5 ,0 0 0 b e e t l e wi ng s , and an ev en in g go w n wi t h a ‘ l e o p a r d s k i n’ d r a pe d o ve r th e f r o n t, cr af t e d e nt i r e l y f r o m b e a d s .

M u ltip le glo b a l f a s hi o n b r a nd s i nc l ud i ng D i o r, G u cci , B u r b e r r y a nd S t e l l a M c C a r t ne y a re fe atu r e d i n the s ho w. E x q ui s i t e g a r m e n ts and accesso r ies b y A l e xa nd e r M c Q ue e n, J e an-Paul G au l tier , R o b e r t o C a v a l l i , D r i e s v a n N o t e n, Viv i en n e Tam, a nd W i l l i a m T a ng a l s o f e ature , sh o w in g h o w f a s hi o na b l e d r e s s c o nt i nual l y d r aw s o n th e be a ut y a nd p o we r o f na t u re f o r insp ir atio n .

Fash i o n ed fr o m N a t ur e e xp l o r e s t he r e lati o nshi p b etw ee n fash i o n a nd na t ur e f r o m 1 6 0 0 to the p r esen t d ay. T he e xhi b i t s s ho w t he i ns pi rati o n fa sh i o n d r aw s f r o m na t ur e , b ut a l s o hi g hl i ght th e h ar mf u l e f f e c t s o n t he na t ur a l e nv i ro nme nt o f th e in cr e as i ng s c a l e o f t he c l o t hi ng i ndustry.

T he e xhi bi ti o n asks two que sti o ns: Ho w c an we de si gn a mo re sustai nable f ashi o n i ndustry?

What c an we l e arn f ro m the past?

T hi s e xhi bi ti o n e xami ne s ho w c l o th in g pro duc ti o n has c hange d o ve r ti me an d th e c hal l e nge s f ac e d by al l o f us to day – to c re ate and buy be auti f ul c l o the s and re spo nsi bl e , and to val ue o ur cloth es mo re C ho o se c are f ul l y: l o o k go o d W ear wi se l y: f e e l go o d Re c yc l e : be ge ne rou s Exhi bi ti o n pl ac e : 1187 Wanghai Road, S he ko u, S he nz he n, C hi na 161 Exhi bition time 2020.12 - 2021.

213

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

S D G PL A N NI N G CALENDER 2 0 2 1 | Q1

S DG P L A N N I N G CALEND ER 2021 | Q1 F EB R UAR Y

8 - 1 7 | 5 9 th S e s s i o n o f th e co mmis s i o n o n s o c i a l d ev el o p me nt 1 1 | I n te r na t i o na l d a y o f wo m e n an d gir ls in s c i e nc e D A T E T B D | Re l e a s e o f wo r l d so cial r e p o r t

MAR CH

8 | I n te r n a t i o na l W o m e n' s D a y 1 5 - 2 6 | Co m m i s s i o n o n t he statu s o f w o m e n D A T E T B D | G e ne r a t i o n E q ua l i t y Fo r u m

APR IL

7 | w o r ld h e a l t h d ay

214

THE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT GOALS O U R C O M M I T M E NT R a wA sse m b l y i s co mmi tte d to ac c e l e rati ng i nno vati o n and c hange wi t hi n t he f a s hi o n & te xti l e s se c to rs to advanc e the D e c ade o f Ac ti o n t o d e l i v e r t he S us t ai nabl e D e ve l o pme nt Go al s by 2030. S uppo rte d by t he C o nsc i o us F a shion Ca mpa ig n , i n c o l l abo rati o n wi th the Uni te d N a t i o ns O f f i c e f o r Partne rshi ps, we e duc ate and mo bi l i z e the f ashi o n s e c t o r t o a c t i o n so l uti o ns f o r so c i al , e c o no mi c , and e nvi ro nme ntal c ha ng e .

The S ust a i na b l e Dev elopment Goa ls are a uni ve rsal c al l to ac ti o n t o e nd p o v e r t y , p r o te c t the pl ane t, and i mpro ve e ve ryo ne ' s l i ve s and p r o s p e r i t y , e v e r y w he re . T he Go al s pre se nt the bl ue pri nt to ac hi e ve a b e t t e r a nd m o r e sustai nabl e f uture f o r al l . T he y addre ss the gl o bal c ha l l e ng e s we f a c e , i nc l udi ng po ve rty, i ne qual i ty, c l i mate c hange , e nv i r o nm e nt a l d e g radati o n, i nj usti c e . T he Go al s pro vi de a re l e vant a nd uni v e r s a l f r a me wo rk f o r re c o ve ri ng be tte r to ge the r f ro m C OVID 1 9 . A r e c o v e r y t hat l e ads to mo re i nc l usi ve , gre e n e c o no mi e s, and s t r o ng e r a nd r e s i l i ent so c i e ti e s.

Learn more C l i c k a ny o f t he S D G i c o ns wi thi n o ur magaz i ne to l e arn mo re abo ut e a c h g o a l , p l us v i s i t o ur S ustai nabl e de ve l o pme nt go al page o n o ur we b s i t e . www. r a wa s s e m b l y .c o m/the -sustai nabl e -de ve l o pme nt-go al s

215

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES R a w Ass emblys D eni m Gl ossary - a c c e ss he re E d u c atio n/ Industry Knowl edge: Tran s fo r mer s Found a t i o n The T ruth Se ri e s - #1 Wo r d s - #2 Gr e en w ash i ng - #3 Co tto n Cl aim s

W e bs ites: • Deni mD u d e s - www.d e ni m d ud e s . c o / • Sim p ly Su ze tte - www. s i m p l y s uz e t t e . c o m / • Car v e d i n B lu e -www.c a r v e d i nb l ue . t e nc e l .c o m/

E v ents: Ki n g pin s K ingp in s Sh o w is a g l o b a l d e ni m s o ur c i ng sho w wi th bi annual e di ti o ns i n Ne w Yo rk and Amsterdam an d an n u al e v e n t s i n H o ng Ko ng a nd v a r i o us c i ti e s i n C hi na. www .k in gp i n ssh o w. c o m D en i m D a y s Den im D ays is an a nnua l d e ni m f e s t i v a l a n d sho ppi ng e ve nt that l i nks c o nsume rs di re c tl y wi t h mills , d e si gn e r s, b r a nd s r e t a i l e r s , a r t i s a ns and vi ntage de al e rs. L aunc he d i n Amste rdam i n April 2 0 1 4 , D en im D ays wi l l ho s t e v e nt s i n N e w Yo rk i n S e pte mbe r 2018 and de but a Nashvi l l e e di tion in Novemb er 2 0 1 8 .

A tr u l y u n i q u e e v e nt , D e ni m D a y s c o ns i s t s o f a se ri e s o f de ni m-re l ate d e ve nts f o r f ashi o n-f o rw ard aficio n ad o s o f d e ni m a s we l l a s p r o f e s s i o nal s f ro m the de ni m i ndustry, c o nsume rs and vi ntag e colle cto r s. Th e m ul t i - d a y s c he d ul e i s p a c k ed wi th sho ppi ng, e duc ati o nal se mi nars, hands-o n d emo n str atio n s, p a r t i e s , i n- s t o r e e v e nt s a n d mo re . www .amste r d amde ni m d a y s . c o m

I ns tgram ac c ounts to fol l ow @R aw .Assemb ly @O ld I n d u str ial Ja p a n @Lon gJo h n _ d en im b l o g @kingso f in d i go @vin tagecu sto ma n @Sel v age_ si ste r s @White_ w e ft @Blue h an d ed _ in di g o j o hn @td n r e p air s @Blue p r in tamste r d a m @kingso f in d i go @ar tisan so ffash io n @d en im.d u d e ttes @d en im.lab @b lue h an d ed _ in di g o j o hn @th e n e w d e n i mp ro j e c t @d ead l y _ d e n i m_ @african _ in d i go @sh ib o r i _ te x ti les - C o m m e r c i a l g r a d e , ha n d-dye d fa b r ic & w al lp ap e r S hi b o r i wo r k s ho p s , N S W , Austral i a

216

T h i s QR c o d e w i l l b e a c t i v a ted short ly a n d w i l l p r o v i d e y o u w i t h l i m i ted a ccess t o o u r o n l i n e d i g i t a l s o u r c i n g direct ory.

T h i s i s o n l y a v a i l a b l e t o o u r ma ga zine s ubscribers.

W e w i l l l e t y o u k n o w w h e n y our unique a c c e s s i s a v a i l a b l e via ema il.

BO OK S Se w in g J ea n s A c o mp r e h e n sive s e wi ng b o o k t ha t wi l l t ake yo u th r o u gh th e e n ti r e p r o c e s s f r o m p i c k i ng the ri ght fa b r ic an d n o ti o ns t o c o m p l e t i ng a p a i r o f j e ans th at w i ll r iv al h i g h- e nd d e ni m b r a nd s . T ake yo ur skill s to th e n e x t l e v e l wi t h t he he l p o f c l e arl y illus tr ate d , step- b y - s t e p i ns t r uc t i o ns a nd e asy to follo w tech n i q u e s . A l l t ut o r i a l s c a n b e d o n e usi ng r egul ar h o me se wi ng m a c hi ne s a nd t o o l s that are easy to acce ss.

Sewin g Jean s: T he c o m p l e t e s t e p - b y - s t e p gui de also in cl u d e s c ha p t e r s o n p a t t e r n a l t erati o ns, a co mp r e h e n siv e g ui d e t o t he b e s t s e a ms and stitc h es p l u s an e x t e ns i v e s e c t i o n o n d e ni m f abri c an d th ei r car e an d us e s .

CON TENT O VER V I E W • I llu str ated s t e p - b y - s t e p i ns t r uc t i o ns f o r the en tir e jean s a s s e m b l y p r o c e s s • I n str u cti o n s f o r p a t t e r n a d a p t a t i ons and alter ati o n s • G u i d es to th e b e s t d e ni m s t i t c he s a nd se ams • D e n i m fab r ic a nd t he i r c a r e a nd us e s • G ar me n t in dus t r y i ns i d e r t i p s a nd t e c h ni que s Best to o ls an d no t i o ns f o r s e wi ng j e a ns Aut h o r : Jo h an n a L und s t r ö m D enim D u des Str e et Style, Vi n t a g e , W o r k we a r , O b s e s s i on.

Befo r e Amy Le v e r t o n l a unc he d D e ni m D u de s, an on li n e co mmu n it y f o r d e ni m he a d s , s he w ro te the b oo k o n i t. Fe atur i ng a c o m b i na t i o n o f s t r e e t-styl e look s fr o m f ash i o n c a p i t o l s a r o und t he worl d and sp o tl igh ts o n glo b a l d e ni m i c o ns , t he b o ok o f f e rs a fr e sh tak e o n t he i nd us t r y . I t s p a g e s are f i l l e d with in sp ir atio n a l p ho t o g r a p hs a nd s ho r t sto ri e s th at cap tu r e th e wi d e a p p e a l o f t he c l a s s i c f abri c .

Aut h o r : Amy Le v e r t o n

Bl u e B lo o ded : De ni m H unt e rs a nd Je a ns Culture Jeans are equal parts subculture and establishment.

Worn as b o th wo r k c l o t he s a nd l ux ur y f ashi o n, th ey ar e p r acti ca l l y uni v e r s a l . T hi s b o o k c o ntai ns eve r y th i n g yo u ne e d - - a nd wa nt - - t o k no w abo ut jea n s. D en im e m b o d i e s a ut he nt i c i t y , r ebe l l i o n, wor k w ear , an d t he o l d we s t . D e ni m hunte rs tir e l essl y sear ch g ho s t t o wns f o r v i nt a g e j e ans.

Fami lies w e av e he r i t a g e c l o t h f o r g e ne rati o ns.

Cr a f tsman o n f o re i g n s ho r e s p r e s e r v e t he o l d ways wh i le d e si gn e r s ba c k ho m e r e d e f i ne t he i c o ni c f i ve p ock et lo o k . An d a l l o f us t r a d e s t o r i e s o f ho w we got th at p er f ect f a d e . B l ue B l o o d e d i s t he sto ry o f d en i m an d d en im c ul t ur e : T he s e c r e t s o f s e l ve dge .

The tr u e o r igin s o f t he O s a k a F i v e . T he i m mi grants an d i n v en to r s i n t he W i l d W e s t who c r e a t ed j e ans.

Exclu siv e p r o f ile s o f t he i nd e p e nd e nt d e si gne rs an d mak e r s i n v i g o r a t i ng t he d e ni m s c ene , l i ke 3 six tee n an d I r o n H e a r t , a l o ng wi t h f o rc e s l i ke

L e vi ' s that shape d the i ndustry. No o ther garmen t has the i c o ni c status o f j e ans. Je ans are n ever o ut o f f ashi o n, and the y wi l l c o nti nu e to ou tlive o the r sarto ri al tre nds f o r the f o re se e able fu tu re.

A c o nte mpo rary o ve rvi e w o f o ur f avorite article o f c l o thi ng, B l ue B l o o de d i ntro duc e s tradition al brands as we l l as de si gne rs who are stirrin g u p th e i ndustry. T he bo o k c o ve rs the to pi c o f jean s in its e nti re ty--f ro m the i r ri ve ts to the i r variou s w ash es and f ro m the i r c ul tural hi sto ry to a re commen ded se l e c ti o n o f sto re s whe re the y c an be bou gh t.

And, o f c o urse , the thi ngs e ve ry de ni m h ead n eeds to kno w: Ho w to wash--o r no t wash--y ou r jean s.

Ho w de ni m i s made . And ho w de ni m m akes u s w h o we are .

Autho r: T ho mas S te ge B o j e r Denim A wi de -rangi ng and be auti f ul l y i l l ustra ted h istory o f the f ashi o n asso c i ate d wi th the world's most ubi qui to us f abri c D e ni m i s o ne o f the wo rl d' s f avo ri te fabrics, an d to day i t ac c o unts f o r the l arge st se gmen t of th e c l o thi ng i ndustry. T he marke t f o r j e an s alon e is wo rth o ve r 55 bi l l i o n do l l ars. Expe rimen ts w ith de ni m by de si gne rs have he l pe d to develop a vast vo c abul ary o f de ni m styl e s bey on d jean s that are no w i ngrai ne d i n f ashi o n' s l exicon . Th is handso me bo o k e xpl o re s the mul ti f ac eted h istory o f de ni m and e xami ne s the c o nti nua lly evolvin g re l ati o nshi p be twe e n i t and hi gh f ashion .

Pri z e d f o r i ts durabi l i ty and stre n gth , den im be gan as an i de al f abri c f o r wo rkw ear, most f amo usl y i n the c l o thi ng pro duc e d by Levi Strau ss & C o . f o r f o rtune hunte rs duri ng the 19th -cen tu ry C al i f o rni a go l d rush. Ove r the past 160 y ears, ho we ve r, f i l m, te l e vi si o n, and adve rtisin g h ave he l pe d transf o rm de ni m i nto a symbol of y ou th , re be l l i o n, se x, and the e ve r-e phe meral qu ality o f " c o o l ." T he f ashi o n i ndustry has also play ed a l arge ro l e i n the e xpansi o n o f de ni m in to casu al and c o uture c l o thi ng. T he D e ni m C o u n cil, w h ich f o rme d i n the U.S . i n the 1950s, pro mo ted den im to an e ve r-wi de ni ng c i rc l e o f c usto me rs th rou gh th e f rame wo rk o f the f ashi o n i ndustry, most n otably wi th pre se ntati o ns duri ng Ne w York fash ion we e ks. Fe aturi ng pre vi o usl y unpubl i sh ed arch ival mate ri al f ro m the D e ni m C o unc i l , a n in sigh tfu l te xt, and c o pi o us i l l ustrati o ns, thi s book offers a ne w pe rspe c ti ve o n de ni m' s rapi d ri s e from th e 19th c e ntury to to day.

B y ( autho r) Emma Mc C l e ndo n , Fo re wo rd by Fre d D e nni s

217

T HE RESPO NSIB LE & SUSTA I NA BL E SOURCI NG M AGAZI NE | R AWAS S E M B LY - JA N-A P R I L 2 0 2 1

218 Im a g e: T ea O ebel

SAS HIKO COT TON T H RE A D

2-ply organic cotton Sashiko Offered in 14 naturally hand-dyed colours.

Perfect for stitching, mending, embroidery and couching.

www.botan ic ati n ctor ia.com

219

F O LLO W U S In s t ag r a m : @r a w .a sse m b l y Li n k ed - i n: r a w a sse m b l y & SI GN UP F OR O U R NE W S LE T T E R S H E R E NEXT EDITION A PR I L 2 0 2 1

BRINGING BALANCE TO FASHION # R ES P O NS I B L E S O U R C I NG # M A TE R I A L R E V O L U TI O N

W W W. R AWA S S EMBLY.C OM