THE R E SPO N SI B L E & SU STA I NA B L E T EXT ILE
SO U RC IN G
Nº 03
PUBLISHED AFTER BREAKFAST • MAY 2021
A SOFT FOCUS
.RAWASSEMBLY.
M AG A Z I NE
.R AWASSEMBLY.
CONTEN UPFRONT 04-08 04 06 08
MO N DAY MORNING M EETI NG - ED I TO R S NO TE CO N TRIBUTORS CO N SCIOUS FA S HIO N C A M P A I GN
A CATEGORICAL IMPERATIVE - MATTRESSES 12-60 12 14 18
A CATEGORICA L IMP ER A TI V E - M attre s s e s MAT TRE S S ES - Ingre d i e nts & i m p ac ts & g ui d e s SDG 11 - SUS TAINA B L E C I TI ES
22
O U T OF SIGHT OUT O F M I ND T h e ethica l dilem m a of d i sp o sal . T h e wast e we ge ner a te i s a b y - p r o d u ct o f m o d e r n h uma n l i f e a nd c a n elicit s ome power ful e m o ti o n s, b u t h o w o fte n d o w e s t o p a nd t h in k ab out the e thica l im p l i cati o n s o f d i sp o sal – o r i s i t s i mp l y o ut o f sig h t , out of mind?
28 32 34 38 42 44 46 50 52 54
NATURA L MA TE RIAL S Pillows , duve ts & wa d d i n g V ERSATILITY OF COI R CU LT URA L NESTS H O W NA TURAL ORGA NI C L A TEX I S M A D E LAT EX BA LLOONS REPURPOSING PPE F A C TO R Y W A S TE SDG 1 - NO POVERT Y FRO M WE ED TO WOND ER F UL PLANT-BA S ED MATER I A L S CI RCULAR STORIE S - S TR UC TUR A L P A P ER
CIRCULAR STORIES 56-63 58
SLEEPING SOUNDL Y, S LOW A N D CI R CULA R B ED L I NE N
T h e su sta ina bility s potlig h t h as b e e n fi r m l y fi xe d o n fash ion in ter m s of r e thi n ki n g h o w w e cr e ate , co n su m e a nd v a lu e our clothing. Howe v e r , th e w ay i n w h i ch w e su s t a i na b l y a nd ethica lly dr e s s our be d s h as r e m ai n e d v e r y m u ch i n t he l i nen-close t.
2
A Soft Focus
60 62
C OYU C H I T H E RE N E W AL W OR K S H OP
MATERIAL STORIES 64-111 66
S H IL O/ L YD IA C OL L ABOR AT ION
Bri s b a ne b a s e d S hi l o / L yd i a t a l k w i t h us a bo ut c r eat ing he i rl o o m ga rme nt s t ha t e ns ure ma x i mum l o nge vi t y a nd c o nne c t i o n.
70
M AD ABOU T T H E T U L L E
74
AT E L IE R T AM M AM - T U L L E & ON E D R E SS
L o nd o n b a s e d L uc y T a mma m t a l k s w i t h us abo ut her o wn j o urne y o f c o ns c i o us i nno va t i o n a nd a d vo c ac y.
82 P E AC E S IL K 86 R E S IL K 88 L OT U S S IL K 94 ORG AN IC C OT T ON L AC E 96 R E S P ON S IBL E L AC E 102 RE S P ON S IBL E E L AS T IC 104 F ABRIC , M IL L S , RE S E ARC H 108 C E RT IF IC AT ION S
L ABS AN D SU PPLI E R S
RETHINKING MATERIALS 116-139
D OW N , W OOL , IN S U L AT ION AL T E R NA T I VE S
118 120 122 122 126 128 130 132 134 136
F L W R -D W N K AP OK S AL T Y C O. F OR E S T F IBR E S H D IN S U L AT ION G RU E Z I RAE BU RN - IN F L AT ABL E OU T W E AR P U FFA S T U C K AT H OM E M AS QU E RAD E C E RT IF IC AT ION S - R D S & T D S RE S P ON S IBL E D OW N AL T E RN AT IV E S
NTS FORGOTTEN FIBRES 140-151 142
W E GA NWOOL
We spoke with Sha nk ar an d h i s p ar tn e r E l e n Tso p p , f o und e rs o f F ab org, to le a r n m or e ab o u t th e i r p l an t- b ase d W e ga no o l f i b re d erived fr om milkwee d .
150 151
LIFE SA VING MIL KW EED MILKWE ED & MO NA R C H
REIMAGINING BLANKETS & QUILTS 152-170 154
THE UTOPIAN F UTUR E I S C I R C UL A R
Values, va lue a nd the ci r cu l ar e co n o m y i n cl o th i n g us e . D o y ou wonder , if the ci r cu l ar e co n o m y co n ce p t i s a n a s p i ra t i o na l one or in fa ct it is r e al i sab l e ?
154 156 157 157 158
THE NEW LUXU R Y - O NE O F A KI ND E ILE EN FIS HE R HUL LE KES MASHA MARIA LONGING FOR S L EEP
164
JINKS MELBOUR NE
Lisa B a r ty ex pla ins h e r m o ti v ati o n fo r b e i n g a resp ons ible fa s hion de si g n e r i n Au str al i a an d w h at s he ho p e s t o ac hieve in the futur e .
166 168 170 172 176
UNSUNG WEAVE R S RAVE REVIEW BOD E UPCYCLING D E S I GN C O NS I D ER A TI O NS CERTIFICATIONS - R W S & GR S
178
RE FERE NCE S
www.rawassembly.c o m
3
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
10
A Soft Focus
www.rawassembly.c o m
11
.RA.
..R RAWASSEMBLY. AWAS SEMBLY.
22
A Soft Focus
OUT OF SIGHT OUT OF MIND – the ethical dilemma of disposal. By Tara Stringer
www.rawassembly.c o m
23
.RA.
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
50
A Soft Focus
n e w material inspiratio n fro m bedding t o pac kaging
from we e d to wonder ful M ed ulla is a n inspiring grad uate p ro j e c t b y D utch d e signer D o n Ya w Kwani ng that e xp l o re s d i ve rs e mat erial fo r ms suitable f o r p ac k ag i ng and f urni tur e a ll cre at ed fr o m so ft rus h. I n m o s t c o untri e s aro un d th e world so ft r ush – al s o k no w n as c o m m o n rus h i s con sid er ed a weed. Pervas i ve and f as t gro w i ng, th e d e nse gras s-like flo werin g p l ant s p re ad s and f l o uri s he s i n wet lan ds, mar shes and g ras s l and s . D ue t o it s o ver po wering nature and p o te nti al i m p ac t o n b iod iver sity, tho usa nd s o f k i l o s o f s o f t rus h ar e r e m oved by co nser vatio n gro up s i n the Ne the rl ands a n nu ally. The co llected s o f t rus h w i l l e i the r b e f e rm en t e d a nd turned i nto b i o gas o r uti l i s e d t o r e cond it io n sa ndy so il o n ag ri c ul tural l and – w hi c h h e l p s im pr o ve wa ter and nutri e nt re te nti o n. W hi l s t i n J a p an soft rush ha s been c ul ti vate d f o r m any ye ars , u se fu lly wo v en into tradi ti o nal J ap ane s e tatam i m ats. T a kin g in spiratio n fr o m t hi s ab und antl y g ro w i ng p l an t , K w an in g resea rched the m ate ri al c ap ab i l i ti e s of s o ft ru sh whilst in his f i nal ye ar at D e s i g n A c ad e my E ind hoven. M ed ulla a nd pith refer to the i nne r s p o nge - l i k e ti s s u e f o un d in the stems o f p l ants , and thro ugh d e tac hi n g th e p it h fro m the pla nt f i b re varyi ng m ate ri al s w e r e r e alised . ‘ B y s eparating the pith f ro m th e f ibre s n e w ap p lic ation p o ss i bil it ies a re c reated. T he f ibre s c an b e de v e lo p e d int o m at er i al s like paper, c orrugate d c ardbo ard , ro pe , n o n wo vens and textiles.’
Image - Don Yaw Kwaning, left front; foam packaging box, left back; corrugated cardboard containing foamy packaging strings, right front; packaging paper, right back; boxes for storage that can double as a side table
F oam p ac kaging and fo am no o d l e s tri ng s w hi c h o f f er a solut ion a lterna tiv e to f o s s i l - f ue l b as e d p o l ys tyre n e w e re develo ped fr o m th e f o am p i th o f the s o f t rus h . D e monst rating beneficia l p ac k ag i ng p ro p e rti e s s uc h a s s h oc k-resista nce and ins ul ati o n. By com p ressing the pith i nto vari o us d e ns i ti e s w i tho u t th e n eed fo r a dding a bi nd e r, a l i g htw e i g ht c o m p act mat erial can also be fo r m e d w hi c h w as s ho w c as e d i n M ed ulla as sto rage bo xes w hi c h d o ub l e as a s i d e tab l e . K w an in g’s ma ter ia l re s e arc h p ro j e c t M e d ul l a c on st ru c t i v ely sho wcase s the l o gi c al c ap ab i l i ti e s of d e signin g with r enewa b l e , b i o l o gi c al m ate ri al s an d th e w ide ra nge o f po ssib i l i ti e s ac hi e vab l e f ro m a p l an t c om m only v iewed as jus t a w e e d . w ww .donya wkwaning.co m Image - Don Yaw Kwaning, Research Materials Presentation
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
FROM WEED TO WON DER FU L
PL AN T-B A SED F I BR E S - R E T H I N K I NG O U R R E S O U R C E S .
01
0 1 P a l m T ree F ibre |
Palm f ib re is the plant ve r s i on o f h ors e ha i r a n d is a l eaf f ib re gathere d from the l e ave s o f dwa r f p a l m. Th e s e l e ave s are f ibrous and c a n b e p ro c e s s e d to c re ate a ha ir-like strand. This ‘ ve g e t a bl e h or s e ha i r ’ has g re at e lastic i t y and is sui table for us e i n mattre s s e s . It is , howe ve r, qui te a rare and u n de rus e d f i bre . It ’s p roba b l y a natura l plant f ibre to watc h ou t for i n th e fu tu re .
52
A Soft Focus
04
02
03
05
0 2 M ek eka D es ign |
0 3 Vin + Om i| Me rce rise d Ne ttle fa brics
0 4 D i an a Sch erer | I n t erw o v en
0 5 D o gb an e | I n d i gen o u s f i b re
H a n d -m a d e In d ig en o u s t ext iles from Uganda Ea c h p i e c e is ma d e u s in g t ec hniques p a s s e d d o w n fr o m g en er a t io n to gener a ti on . T heir ma t er ia ls in c lude plaited p a l m l eaf fr o m t h e en kin dukind u t r e e , b ar k c lo t h an d o t h er natural w ov e n f i b r es d er ived fr o m i n d i g e n o u s p la n t s . G r e a t p ot en t ia l a s b eau t ifu l woven h e a d b oa r ds
British fashion designers Vi n + O m i created a ten- piece sustain ab l e f ashion line using 3 ,0 0 0 nettles f r om Prince Charles's Highgrove Roy al Gardens in their SS2 0 colle c t i on. V i n + Omi harvested the nettle s d i r e c tly from Prince Charles's ba c k gar d e n, known as Highgrove Royal G ar d e ns and transf ormed them into m at erials.
Di ana d om e st i c at e s nat ur al p l ant r oot sy st e m s t o gr ow i nt o i nt r i c at e l y p at t e r ne d m at e r i al s. C oul d I nt e r wov e n r oot sy st e m s b e t he f ut ur e of c l ot hi ng, b e d d i ng and i nt e r i or s i n t om or r ows wor l d ?
w w w . m e k ekad es ig n s .c o m/#o fferings
https://www.vinandomi.co m /
Dogb ane gr ows i n mo i s t, o p e n h a bi t at s t hr oughout N orth A me r i c a , and i t has se r v e d as a ma j o r f i b r e p l ant f or N at i v e A m e r i c a n p e o p l e s f or t housand s of y e a r s . D o g b a n e p l ay s c ul t ur al l y si gni f i c a n t r o l e s f o r l oc al i nd i ge nous gr o u p s . T h e p l a n t p r od uc e s st r ong f i b r e s f o r s tr i n g , t hr e ad , r op e , b ask e t s , s n a r e s , n e tt i ng, and c l ot hi ng. C o r d a g e f r o m th e p l ant has al so b e e n u s e d to ma k e st r ap s, b e l t s, ne t t e d b a g s , h a i r n e ts , and c e r e m oni al r e ga l i a . T h e p l a n t has m any m e d i c i nal u s e s a s w e l l .
ht t p : / / d i anasc he r e r . nl / @d i ana_ sc he r e r
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
C I R C U LA S T ORI ES DESIG N IN G NE W V ALUE CHAI NS ; C IR C U L AR PATH W AYS FOR T H E EV ER EV O LV I NG AP PAR E L AN D TE X TIL E IN DU STRIES FOCU S POI NTS : RE NE WAL
56
A Soft Focus
AR S
www.rawassembly.c o m
57
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
The Renewal Workshop R ene wa l w as st ar te d to s olve hard probl e ms and c re ate ne w s yste ms t hat d o w hat is go o d and r i g ht for p e opl e and for t he pl anet by l e a d ing c i rc u l ar p at hways for e volv i ng app arel and te x t i l e bus i ne ss f rom a l ine ar to a circ u l ar mo d el. The R ene w a l Sy stem is t he pro cess d e vel op e d to br i d ge gap s , c on ne c t s yste ms , and mobi l i z e l e a d e rship to ma ke exist ing l ine ar manu f a c tu r i ng pra c t i c e s c i rc u l ar. At it s he ar t , it is a c ol l ab orat ive process t hat rel ies on prog ressive br and p ar t ne rs c ommitte d to sust ai nabi l it y. Cur rent ly, br ands and ret ai l ers l a ck sy ste ms to re c ove r v a lu e f rom u ns el l abl e i nve ntor y. For pro du c t s t hat have b e en pro du c e d but c annot b e s ol d, t he c re at ive, phys i c a l, natu ra l and f i nanc i a l re s ou rc e s investe d in t hem are l ost . Th is l e a ds to mass ive waste probl e ms w it h ne gat ive e nv i ron me nt a l i mp a c t s , sig nif ic ant f inanci a l l oss es for br ands and miss e d opp or tu n it i e s for c onsu me rs . The R ene w a l Sy stem t a kes d is c ard e d app arel and te x t i l e s and tu r ns t he m i nto R e ne we d pro du c t s , up c ycle d mater i a ls or re c ycl ing fe e dsto ck . D at a is c ol l e c te d on e ve r yt h i ng t hat f l ows t h rou g h t he s yste m and is g iven b a ck to br and p ar t ners to help t he m i mprove t he pro du c t i on and d e s i g n of f utu re pro duc ts. It is a zero-w aste sy stem t hat re cove rs t he f u l l v a lu e out of w hat has a l re a dy b e e n c re ate d as a way of s er v ing c ustomers, p ar t ners and t he pl ane t . O p ening t heir f irst f a c tor y in C as c a d e L o cks , O re gon i n 2 0 1 6 , and t he i r s e c ond i n Amste rd am i n 2019, t he te am is g row ing e ver y d ay w it h ne w p e opl e w ho are i nspi re d by a share d s e ns e of pu r p o s e and com m itte d to C ore Va lu es t hat d r ive a l l t he d e c is i ons ma d e at R e ne wa l.
“C oyuchi l ea d s th e i ndu str y in c ircul a r i n n ov atio n a n d busi n ess m o del s. Our p a rtn e rshi p exte nd s the in c red ibl e sust ai n abil ity w o rk th at th e b ra n d do es with Fai r Tra d e a nd o rga nic c ot to n to t ake f ul l resp o n sibil ity fo r e v e r ythi n g th e b ra n d m akes th rou ghout the pro duct’s life -c ycl e . I a m co n st a ntly i n spi red by th e i n n ov atio n o f the c o m p a ny to pu sh th e i n dustr y to l o ok at own e rshi p m o del s fo r h ome go o d s throu gh the C oyuchi 2n d Ho m e p ro gra m . Coyuchi sh ows th e w o rl d th at p roduct s ca n be c ircul a r a n d th e f uture o f busi n ess ca n b e ze ro w a ste .” -Nicole Bas s ett, Co Fou n de r of The Re n ewal Works h op 62
A Soft Focus
HO W REN EWAL WO RKS Cur rent ly, t he rene w a l work shop s el l R e store d L i ne s i n home go o ds , app arel and b ags . T h is is t heir h ig hest qu a l it y l ine. It me ans t hat e ve r yt h i ng t he y s el l has b e e n re store d and cer t i f i e d to L i ke - Ne w c ond it i on .
CLE ANE D
RE P A I RE D
The y have p ar t nere d w it h Tersus s olu t ions, t he worl d’s most a dvance d w ate rl e ss cle an ing te ch nol og y to cl e an most ite ms . Thing s t hat c annot b e cl e ane d in t he Te rsus are w ashe d in com merci a l g r a d e wash i ng machines. Ever y sing l e pie c e of R e ne we d pro du c t is w ashe d to a cl e an as ne w st and ard.
Ab out 5 0 % of R e ne we d Pro du c t has b e e n profe ss i ona l ly re p ai re d i n s ome way. T h is c ou l d b e as s i mpl e as st itch i ng up a s e am or as c ompl e x as re pl a c i ng a z ipp e r. A l l re p ai rs re sp e c t t he or i g i na l d e s i g n and qu a l it y st and ards .
CE R T I F I E D
C O -B RA N D E D
A l l R ene we d pro du c t - w het her or not it re qu ire d rep air - is c er t if ie d to ensure t hat e ver y t h ing work s ( ex. buttons, zipp e rs , snaps, cl osu res, l ining s, w ater resist ant co at ing ) and t here is no pi l l ing , fa d i ng , f abr ic f at ig u e or over a l l sig ns of ex ter ior we ar. O nc e pro du c t s are re v i e we d and approve d, t he y are of f ici a l ly ce r t i f i e d as R ene we d.
T he R e ne wa l Workshop l ab el l e t s e ve r yone k now t hat t he pro du c t is of f i c i a l ly R e ne we d. T h is me ans it has me t b ot h t he i r st and ards and t he or i g i na l brand st and ards .
SCO R E D
H A P P I L Y RE C E I V E D
The y t r a ck w aste re du c t ion and wate r, c ar b on, toxic chem ic a l and energ y of f s et s for e ver y pro du c t and rep or t out on t he tot a l imp a c t t w ice a ye ar. As of June 2020, t he y have d iver te d a l most 2 8 5 K p ou nds of text i l es f rom l and f i l l.
R e ne we d pro du c t s are n’t f u l ly re ne we d u nt i l a c ustome r is happi ly us i ng t he m. If for any re as on , t he pro du c t d o e s n’t me e t e x p e c t at i ons , t he y w i l l t a ke it b a ck and re f u nd t he s a l e.
W W W. R E N E WA LWOR K SHOP. C OM
www.rawassembly.c o m
63
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
Certifications Raw Materials & Products OT H E R C E RT I F IC AT ION S A N D S C H E M E S T HAT YO U M IG H T WA N T TO E X P L OR E I F YO U A R E P ROD U C I N G B E DDI N G & F U R N IAT U R E
A F R DI - T h e Au st r a l asi an Fu r n i shing Re s e arch and D e vel opm ent Institute AF RD I ,The A us tral as i an Furni s hi n g Re s e a r c h a n d D e v e l o p m e n t In s t i t u t e i s a n i n d e p e n d e n t not -for-profit techni c al o rg ani s ati o n p ro vi d i ng s t a n d a r d s , t e s t i n g , p r o d u c t c e r t i f i c a t i o n a n d r e s e a r c h for buyers a nd selle rs o f f urni ture . A FRD I GR EEN TI C K Or gani s ati o ns w o rl d - w i d e are l o o k i n g t o e n s u r e t h e i r e n v i r o n m e n t a l f o o t p r i n t i s m i n i m i s e d and o nl y p ro d uc ts w hi c h have b ee n d e s i g n e d w i t h s u s t a i n a b i l i t y i n m i n d a r e u s e d . T h e A FRD I Gre e n Ti c k c e rti f i e s s up p l i e r ’ s p r o d u c t s m e e t AF R D I’ s e x p e c t a t i o n s f o r t h e e t h i c a l so urc i ng o f m ate ri al s f re e f ro m h a r m f u l l e v e l s o f t o x i c c h e m i c a l s , a n d f e a t u r e s u s t a i n a b l e design, w hi c h m i ni m i s e s w as te an d e n c o u r a g e s t h e r e s p o n s i b l e u s e o f w a t e r a n d e n e r g y in the i r m anuf ac ture . The AF R D I Gre e n Ti c k c e rti f i c ati o n i s a G r e e n Bu i l d i n g C o u n c i l o f Au s t r a l i a ( G BC A) recog ni s e d p ro d uc t c e rti f i c ati o n s c h e m e , a l l o w i n g t h e p r o d u c t s t o c o n t r i b u t e t o a G r e e n S tar rati ng. A FRD I Gre e n Ti c k c o ve rs s uc h attr i b u t e s a s P r o d u c t S t e w a r d s h i p , C o m p l i a n c e w i t h L a w s and R e g ul ati o ns , F i tne s s f o r Purpo s e , M a t e r i a l s S e l e c t i o n , H a za r d o u s S u b s t a n c e s , In d o o r Envir o nm e nt Q ual i ty, D i s as s e m b ly R e c y c l i n g M o d u l a r i t y a n d P r o d u c t Re f u r b i s h m e n t . F o r the Pl ati num L e ve l A F R D I Gre e n T i c k a l s o c o v e r s Op e r a t i o n a l E n e r g y W a t e r a n d W a s t e , Co r p o rate S o c i al R e s p o ns i b i l i ty, T r a n s p o r t a n d P a c k a g i n g . Their Gre e n Ti c k p ro g ram f e atures t h r e e l e v e l s o f a t t a i n m e n t : • A FR D I Gre e n Ti c k ‘S i l ve r’ • A FR D I Gre e n Ti c k ‘Go l d ’ • A FR D I Gre e n Ti c k ‘P l ati num ’ D o wnl o ad the i r L ate s t gui d e l i ne s h e r e
h ttp: / / www. f ur nt e c h. o r g . a u/ FUR N T E C H O RA N G E T I C K Ch ild r e n’ s p r o d uc t s l i k e c o t s a nd bunk be ds have mandate d mi ni mum saf e ty r eq u i r e m e nt s d e t a i l e d b y t he Austral i an C o mpe ti ti o n and C o nsume r C o mmi ssi o n (ACCC). Th es e a r e c a l l e d C o ns um e r P ro te c ti o n No ti c e s ( C PNs) and are o f te n re f e rre d to as th e M an d a t o r y S t a nd a r d . T he C P Ns ge ne ral l y re f e r to o nl y part o r parts o f the Australian Stan d a r d . A F RD I a s s e s s a g a i n st the se C PN re qui re me nts and grants Furnte c h Oran ge Ti ck a s r e c o g ni t i o n o f m e e t i ng the C PN
110
A Soft Focus
[ FO A-M ] + M ATTRESSES GE C A ( G o o d E nv i ron m ent a l C h oi c e Au str a l i a ) is a pur p o s e dr ive n , not for prof it t hat prov i de s s olut i ons for sust ai nabl e consumpt i on and pro duct ion. The y have de vel op e d t he i r ow n r i gorous st and ards, fol l ow i ng ISO 1 4 0 2 4 pr i ncipl e s and I SEAL f r ame work s for g l ob a l b e st pr a c t i c e i n e col ab el l i ng , w h i ch are t he n i nde p e nde nt ly ass e ss e d by t heir Assu r anc e Prov i de rs . GE C A’s Fu r n itu re, Fitt i ngs , Fo am and Mattre ss e s (L e vel A). Furniture , f i tti ng , f o am and m attre s s p r o d u c t s f o r m a s i g n i f i c a n t p r o p o r t i o n o f i t e m s m a n u f a ct ured fo r us e w i thi n re s i d e nti al , c o m me r c i a l a n d g o v e r n m e n t e n v i r o n m e n t s a n d f o r m a s i g n if ica nt manuf ac turi ng s e c to r i n A us tral i a. Furniture trans f o rm s o ur ho m e s an d w o r k p l a c e s f r o m e m p t y r o o m s t o i n v i t i n g , f u n c t i o n a l s pa ces. But ho w o f te n d o w e c o ns i d e r the e n v i r o n m e n t a l i m p a c t o f t h e p r o d u c t s t h a t h e l p u s w o r k, rest a nd pl ay? The m anuf ac ture , us e , and d i s p o s a l o f f u r n i t u r e p r o d u c t s c a n n e g a t i v e l y i m p a c t o u r e n v i r o nment a nd he al th, d e p e nd i ng o n f ac to rs s u c h a s t h e c h o i c e o f r a w m a t e r i a l s u s e d , c o a t i n g s , t e x t i l es, a nd a dhesi ve s . M anuf ac ture rs m ay al s o u s e h a za r d o u s t r e a t m e n t s o r m a n a g e t h e i r e n e r g y a n d wa t er use poo rl y d uri ng p ro d uc ti o n. D evelo p m e nts i n ti m b e r, al l o y and m e t a l , a n d p l a s t i c r e c y c l i n g h a v e e n c o u r a g e d i n n o v a tion in furniture and f i tti ng d e s i gn and m a n u f a c t u r e , e n c o u r a g i n g p r o d u c t s t h a t r e a d i l y i n c o r pora t e r ecycle d m ate ri al s and p ro d uc ts wi t h c o n s t i t u e n t s t h a t c a n b e r e c y c l e d i n t o n e w p r o d u c t s a t t he end o f l i f e . The s e p ro d uc ts o f te n e qu a l o r s u r p a s s t r a d i t i o n a l p r o d u c t s i n s o m e a s p e c t s o f s t r engt h, dur abi l i ty and f unc ti o n. Ho wev e r, m anuf ac ture rs c an s ti l l s i g n i f i c a n t l y r e d u c e s u s t a i n a b i l i t y i m p a c t s a c r o s s t h e s e p r oduct s’ entire l i f e c yc l e . Thi s s tand ard re f e r s t o t h e m a n u f a c t u r e o f t h e p r o d u c t s a n d t h e i r c o n s t it uent materi al s , the p e ri o d o f ac tual us e a n d d i s p o s a l . When a p ro d uc t i s c e rti f i e d agai n s t G E C A’ s F u r n i t u r e , F i t t i n g s , F o a m a n d M a t t r e s s e s ( L evel A ) standa rd , c o ns um e rs c an b e s ure t h a t t h e p r o d u c t h a s b e e n a s s e s s e d t o m e e t e n v i r o n ment a l, human he al th and s o c i al i m p ac t c ri t e r i a , w h i l e a l s o p r o v i n g t h a t i t p e r f o r m s a s p r o m i s e d . GE CA c e rti f i c ati o n re m o ve s d o ub t a n d c o n f u s i o n a n d m a k e s i d e n t i f y i n g e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y a nd so cia ll y p re f e rab l e p ro d uc ts e as i e r. P r o d u c t s c e r t i f i e d u n d e r t h i s s t a n d a r d a r e r e c o g n i s e d b y WE LL, IS CA a nd the Gre e n B ui l d i ng C o unci l o f Au s t r a l i a ’ s G r e e n S t a r P e r f o r m a n c e t o o l . The st and ard s e ts re q ui re m e nts th a t a i m t o p r o v i d e a b e n e f i t b y : • av o idi ng the i l l e g al harve s t o f w oo d a n d f i b r e f o r r a w m a t e r i a l s • r educ i ng the us e and s ub s e q u e n t r e l e a s e o f e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y h a r m f u l s u b s t a n c e s t o t he env ir o nm e nt at al l s tage s o f the p r o d u c t ’ s l i f e c y c l e • reduc i ng the p re s e nc e and re l e as e o f s u b s t a n c e s h a r m f u l t o h u m a n h e a l t h • ensu ri ng w o rk e rs and s up p l i e rs th r o u g h t h e s u p p l y c h a i n c a n e x p e c t f a i r p a y , e q u a l o p p o r t unit y, a nd a s af e w o rk i ng e nvi ro nm e nt • encourag i ng re c o ve ry, re us e , rec y c l i n g a n d r e s p o n s i b l e d i s p o s a l o f u n w a n t e d p r o d u ct a nd packa g i ng GE CA are al s o a C e rti f i e d B C o rp o r a t i o n m e e t i n g r i g o r o u s s t a n d a r d s o f s o c i a l a n d e n v i r o n ment a l per fo rm anc e , l e gal l y e xp and i ng t h e i r c o r p o r a t e r e s p o n s i b i l i t i e s t o i n c l u d e c o n s i d e r a t i on of stakeho l d e r i nte re s ts , and b ui l d c o l l e c t i v e v o i c e t h r o u g h t h e p o w e r o f t h e u n i f y i n g B C o r p ora t ion brand.
https://geca.eco/about-us/
www.rawassembly.c o m
111
.RA.
.R AWASSEMBLY.
R E I M AG
BLANKETS & DESIG N ERS REI M AGI NI NG P RO D U C TS OF TH E PAS T F OR T H E FU TU RE. EFFORTLESSLY BLENDING VINTAGE TEXTILES, WITH MASTERFUL NEW CUTS. FO CUS P O I N T S : U P C Y C L I N G V I N T A G E B L ANKET S & QUIL T S
152
A Soft Focus
IN I G
& QUILTS
www.rawassembly.c o m
153
.RA.
.RAWA AWASSEMBLY. .R SSEMBLY.
R e s p o n s ib l e Wo o l St a n d a r d ( RWS ) The Responsible Wool Standard is a voluntary standard that addresses the welfare of sheep and the land they graze on. The goals of the Responsible Wool Standard are to provide the industry with a tool to recognize the best practices of farmers; ensuring that wool comes from farms that have a progressive approach to managing their land, practice holistic respect for animal welfare of the sheep and respect the Five Freedoms of animal welfare. W W W. T E X T I L E E XC HA N G E . ORG / STA N DA R D S /
The RWS requires all sites to be certified, beginning with the wool farmers and through to the seller in the final business to business transaction. Usually the last stage to be certified is the garment manufacturer or brand. Retailers (business-to-consumers) are not required to be certified. Farms are certified to the Animal Welfare and Land Management and Social Modules of the RWS. Subsequent stages of the supply chain are certified to the Content Claim Standard requirements. THE STANDARD FOCUSES ON: • Recognize the best practices of farmers; • Ensure that wool comes from farms with a progressive approach to managing their land, and from sheep that have been treated responsibly; • Create an industry benchmark that will drive improvements in animal care and land management and social welfare where needed; and • Provide a robust chain of custody system from farm to final product so that consumers are confident that the wool in the products they choose is truly RWS The RWS may be applied globally and only applies to the wool supply chain only. Access the RWS Documents here Learn more about RWS here, plus access Textile Exchanges other Standards in their Resources section, such as Responsible Leather, Mohair, and Down.
https://textileexchange.org/
176
A Soft Focus Image: Wool
G l ob a l R e cyc l e St a n d a r d
( G RS )
The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is an international, voluntary, full product standard that sets requirements for third-party certification of Recycled Content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions. The goal of the GRS is to increase use of Recycled materials in products and reduce/eliminate the harm caused by its production. WWW.T E XTI L E E X C H A N G E . O RG / D O C U M E N TS / THE OBJECTIVES OF GRS ARE: • Alignment of definitions across multiple applications. • Track and trace Recycled input materials. • Provide customers (both brands and consumers) with a tool to make informed decisions. • Reduce harmful impact of production to people and the environment. • Provide assurance that materials in the final product are actually Recycled and processed more sustainably. • Drive innovation in addressing quality issues in the use of Recycled materials. HOW IT STARTED: The Global Recycle Standard (GRS) was originally developed by Control Union Certifications (CU) in 2008 and ownership was passed to Textile Exchange January 1, 2011. The previous version of the standard, GRS 3.0, was released in 2014.
Access the GRS Documents here Learn more about GRS here, plus access Textile Exchanges other Standards in their Resources section, such as Responsible Leather, Mohair, and Down.
https://textileexchange.org/
www.rawassembly.c o m
177
.RA.
.RA.