Ely Winter Times 2020-2021

© Chilly Dogs

Ely Winter Times

2020-2021

CONTENTS Art for Free Arts Resources & Galleries The Fascinating Field Guides Snowshoe Perspectives Dine-In or Take-out Guide Ely Area Calendar A Few Suggestions for Fun

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The Ely Summer and Winter Times is published twice a year by Raven Words Press. For editorial information or advertising rates, contact us at PO Box 188, Ely, MN 55731, 218-365-3375. For a subscription within the US, send check or money order for

Ely Area Maps Spiritual Gatherings North Arm Gnome Armistice Day Blizzard What’s New in Ely? Books for Blizzards States of Water

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© Heidi Pinkerton

Photos by John Ratzloff

Seasons of Splendor, Nancy Scheibe. West side of a Jasper Company building, 36 W. Sheridan St.

Art for Free Ely is an attractive place for artists, with a lively collaborative community of visual artists and crafters, dancers and theater arts specialists, musicians and writers, plus an active population of arts supporters who make generous

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donations and fill audience seats at performances. One special group of artists provides Ely residents and visitors with art every day at absolutely no charge—the mural makers. And more than 70 artists display their work at the

The Ely Winter Times

Swans, wood carving by Gail DeMarcken 2020 Ely Art Walk, Karina Herrera Studio Ely Art Walk every winter—another free art experience for anyone who walks through downtown. In the past, the Ely Art Walk has coincided with the Ely Winter Festival, lasting just 10 days. But this year, recognizing how much effort goes into setting up 60 or more store windows with displays of photographs, fiber arts, pottery, stained glass, sculpture, paintings, and a variety of other finely crafted works of art, the organizers,

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artists, and store owners agreed that ten days was not long enough. They also wanted to show off Ely’s artworks during the Wolf Track Classic, the sled dog race at the end of February. So this year for the first time, the Ely Art Walk will offer visitors an outdoor gallery from February 4th, the beginning of the Winter Festival, through the whole month of February. Another advantage of the extended time frame is that viewers are bound to find a few warm days on which they can

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leisurely stroll the tour or revisit their favorite windows and consider purchasing a piece of art to take home. Registration for participation in the Ely Art Walk is due December 4th and can be found online at ElyArtWalk.org or a paper form can be picked up at Art & Soul Gallery. The only restriction is that artists must live in the Ely Area, including Babbitt, Winton, Isabella, and Tower, at least part of the year. Many people don’t think of themselves as

A detail from Boreal Buddies by Nancy Scheibe, on the west wall of Art & Soul Gallery artists, so don’t apply, but the Art Walk seeks a broad range of arts and crafts including woodworking, quilts, knitting, and jewelry. There is a $10 fee to participate, which is waived for students. All ages are welcome.

Fantasy at Night mural by Nancy Scheibe, under the deck at Adventure Inn, 1145 E. Sheridan 6

The Ely Winter Times

Nancy Scheibe was inspired to start the Mural Walk after a trip to Ashland, Wisconsin, in 2014. There she learned about the surfaces, paints, and protective finishings that preserve the large works of art that are exposed to the elements for decades. Many murals were already displayed on Ely buildings, including the one created by Greenstone Public Arts on the side of Tony’s gas station and several by Bob Cary. Sadly, some of those are deteriorating because

the surface on which they were painted is crumbling. Cement and brick break down eventually and old layers of paint begin to peel after years of sun and rain, freezing and thawing. Nancy learned to paint on MDO board, a kind of plywood designed for outdoor signage, which has the additional advantage of allowing the artist to work on the project indoors. In addition to painting more murals, Nancy designed a brochure so people could learn about each mural and make

Space Fish mural by Dan and Ellie Madsen, in the alley behind 447 E. Sheridan 2020-2021

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A detail from Summer Blueberries by Sharon Anderson, on the gas tank at Grand Ely Lodge

an event of walking or driving to view them all. Several of the Mural Walk paintings are indoors, include the oldest ones. Located in the Post Office lobby, these were commissioned by the WPA in the late 1930s as part of the New Deal program that paid artists to create public works of art as part of helping the country recover from the Great Depression. These walks are the perfect cabin fever reliever. You’ll get exercise and aesthetics as well as affirmation of the abundance of talented Ely area residents. So gather your “pod,” pick up the brochures, and head out for an afternoon of art.

Crossman Moose Team by Nancy Scheibe and Emma Kari, on the east wall of Art & Soul, is from a famous photograph portraying a remarkable bit of Ely history. 8

The Ely Winter Times

Nancy Ensley’s paintings displayed at the NAPA store during Ely Art Walk 2020

One of the Ravens by Shaun Chosa, on the west wall of Sisu Designs at 31 W. Chapman St.

Shore Lunch by Bob Cary overlooks the parking lot at Zup’s Grocery. Bob was a journalist at the Ely Echo and once ran for President under the Fisherman’s Party. 2020-2021

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ART in ELY Snowy Pine by Sandy Brandley, watercolor, Art & Soul Gallery & Gift ORGANIZATIONS

The Art Corner 301 W. Sheridan Street Arts in Ely ArtsInEly.org Ely Art Walk ElyArtWalk.org Ely Arts & Heritage ElyArtsandHeritageCenter.org Ely Folk School 209 E. Sheridan Street Gardner Humanities Trust GardnerTrust.org Northern Lakes Arts Assn. NorthernLakesArts.org Tofte Lake Center TofteLake.org Walls are visual arts. For a listing of all Ely arts see ArtsinEly.org. See their FB page for current happenings.

This listing is sponsored by

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WALLS & SHELVES

Art & Soul Gallery & Gift House 427 E. Sheridan Street The Brandenburg Gallery 11 East Sheridan Street Crapola 16 N 1st Avenue E Fernberg Art Gallery 2267 Fernberg Road

Front Porch Coffee & Tea Co. 343 East Sheridan Street Kekekabic Studio 118 East Chapman Street Mealey’s Gift Shop 124 N. Central Avenue Ornamental Hermit Studio 132 N 1st Avenue E

The Ely Winter Times

Fascinated with Field Guides Were you one of those kids who read under the covers with a flashlight after bedtime, sure your parents had no idea what you were up to? Roger Powell was that kid, but with an unusual difference: Rog snuck field guides into his bedroom. The plot was a little thin, but the subject matter fascinated him. At age eight, he had no idea that he would one day write a field guide, but that’s exactly what happened. More about that in a bit‌ Almost everyone with an interest in natural history uses a field guide from time to time, whether to look up a bird at the feeder, gather information on a plant growing in the yard, or learn about the

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flora and fauna of a region being visited. But field guides have a much broader educational and entertainment value that you might consider. When you have a well-written, carefully organized, beautifully illustrated, and thoroughly researched field guide in your hands, you hold the equivalent of two or three graduate-level college courses, an expensive month-long eco-tour guided by an expert, and a visit to a prestigious art gallery. All for about $20 in most cases. If you are a teacher, parent or grandparent, you also have a key to unlock that precious treasure chest of

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From the Spiders field guide by Larry Weber: “We tend to FEAR that which we do not KNOW We tend to DISLIKE that which we FEAR We tend to HURT that which we DISLIKE But in the end, we tend to ENJOY that which we get to KNOW “ A wise comment that we could beneficially apply to much of life today, far beyond spiders.

your favorite youth’s enthusiasm, along with their desire to get outdoors and observe the natural world. Turn them on to (or perhaps more likely, let them turn YOU on to) the apps that identify plants, critters, and even rocks with a simple cell phone photo, and you’ve bridged a generation gap as well as introduced an educational activity that will be fun for both of you. As convenient as apps are, paper books are still intriguing, and don’t require wifi or a cell signal. There are plenty of field guides to choose from, but for the Ely area and most of the upper Midwest, some of the best are the North Woods and Western Great Lakes Naturalist Series, published by Kollath & Stensaas, and Stone Ridge Press books.

Rick Kollath began his illustrating career in pre-school and now draws pictures for field guides as well as for such Northland favorite outdoor stores as Duluth Trading Company, Frost River, and Ely’s own Piragis Northwoods Company. Sparky Stensaas is a renowned naturalist, photographer, and founder of the Friends of the Sax-Zim Bog, a non-profit that has made this nearby birding habitat famous worldwide. Sparky is author of Canoe Country Flora and Canoe Country Wildlife—not field guides exactly, but must-haves for any cabin libraries in northern Minnesota. Together Rick and Sparky have produced and published this outstanding collection of field guides. Why are these the best? Details, organization, and the wealth of information that fills the easy-to-pack, sturdy books is one reason. The photographs and illustrations are clear and make it possible, even easy in many situations, to identify families, genera, and species. The authors are not just experts in their field, they are good

How to Tell a Dragonfly from a Damselfly from field guides by Kurt Mead & Robert DuBois

Dragonflies Eyes in contact with each other (except in clubtails) Ovipositor non-functional Stout build Strong sustained flight Wings held flat when perched 12

Damselflies Eyes always separate

Ovipositor functional Slight build Weak fluttery flight Wings held over back

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writers, able to explain complexities in ways we ordinary people can understand, often with a bit of humor and humanity. Beyond the details about each organism, the authors sometimes offer up bits of philosophy on their subject. When you think of curling up with a good book in front of the fireplace, you’re probably imagining a novel or perhaps the latest popular title addressing the social unrest of our times or the current self-help craze. But how about trying Lichens of the North Woods? Ubiquitous beings, these mysterious fungi-algae partnerships are one of the areas of science where the more we learn, the more we know we don’t know. One way of getting a kid interested in science is showing them that they can learn everything right up to the point where no one has an answer. What power—to be able to ask unanswered questions and learn what it might take to answer them! But back to the adult on a cozy sofa— Mmm, nice pictures; hey, I think I saw this yesterday on my walk; aha—you can

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eat these things? There are plenty of lichens visible in winter on boulders, tree trunks, and dangling from spruce branches. Your curiosity will motivate you right off the couch and out for a walk to discover which of these interesting organisms inhabit your location. So by now perhaps you’re thinking a field guide might be a great holiday gift,

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How Hard Is This?!

but which topic do you choose? Dragonflies are amazing remnants of the dinosaur age, but butterflies are so beautiful. Ferns are fascinating, but mammals are cute and furry and most like us. The winter finches include many of the birds at our feeder this time of year, and owls are mysterious nocturnal visitors that are heard more than seen. With the North Woods Naturalist Series and Stone Ridge Press guides, the brief but illuminating introductions give you a good idea of the topic and why you or your gift recipient might like the book. Take a little time at the bookstore of your choice to read these first few pages and look over the entries to guide your selection. Or borrow a few from the

Where to Start?

If you want to take advantage of the justopened-a-present enthusiasm, this is a perfect choice. Most of the 19 species can be seen in your yard during Ely winters by simply putting out some sunflower seeds. There are details to fascinate the young child and educate the experienced birder, such as this bit about the male purple Finch’s courtship behavior: ”He’ll flutter his wings, hop around, stick out his breast and cock his tail. He’ll then launch himself vertically and land, point his beak skyward and lean back as far as he can. All this while singing and holding a piece of nesting material. Impressive!” 14

Because of the limited geographical area covered by these guide books, the newcomer or casual naturalist isn’t overwhelmed by hundreds of listings, most of which don’t occur where the reader lives. Many of the species are common and easy to find with the habitat descriptions and phenology included. These books cover all the species you’re likely to see: # of species Organisms 125 Butterflies 51 Damselflies 102 Dragonflies 86 Ferns 53 Orchids 21 Tiger Beetles For Spiders, Insects, Lichen, and Fungi, there is far too much variety, even in a limited area, to include every species, so the authors chose up to 156 (except 447 for Insects!) of the most common, unique, and interesting species to get the amateur started and to teach the fundamental biology of each group. library to see which ones you may want to add to your own library. (Please don’t buy from Amazon—they are not a good company for employees, vendors, or the world. If you are on a budget, try for a used book from Chapman Street Books locally or Better World Books online.) Back under the covers with Rog, he discovers that his real passion is mammals. Years later, his passion having matured along with the rest of him, he finds a few other students at Carleton College, including Consie, who share his enthusiasm. They talked a professor into letting them live-trap small mammals— mice, voles, shrews—in a prairie habitat near campus. But there are two species of Peromyscus that Rog can’t differentiate. Baffled, he takes some study skins to the Field Museum in Chicago over Christmas break and asks to see their collection so he can learn how to identify these little mice. His inquiry attracts the attention of the Head Curator of Mammals, who sees that Roger gets his first experience in the inner sanctum of a major Natural History museum—a much different perspective The Ely Winter Times

than looking at the displays for the public. He also learns that these two species can only be differentiated by a small bone that isn’t visible in live animals. Roger was a fairly poor writer as he started college. At one point he received such a poor grade on a term paper that his final grade was dropped a full letter because of poor writing. He was inspired to improve when he read a report on periodical cicadas—potentially a dry subject—that was a real page-turner; he literally couldn’t put it down. Inspired by this report and by two professors in Biology who were also excellent writers and who spent long hours helping him, Rog became a writer whose work is not just readable and accurate with good grammar, but is fun and engaging. Consie’s love of natural history began early with long walks along the tide pools and beaches of the California coast where she grew up. Once Consie was old enough, her mother left her and her

younger brother at the San Diego Zoo for whole afternoons while she was working. What a day care situation! Consie credits those long days with honing her observation skills. She would simply sit and watch the animals in one exhibit for hours at a time. This allowed her to have the thrill of seeing a cheetah, who appeared to be simply dozing in the sun, leap up and catch a mourning dove. Here she also began to fine tune her natural talent for drawing. Never without her journal or sketch pad, she learned to draw details that a more casual observer would never notice and that allowed her to create very accurate and realistic pictures of animals and their behaviors. In graduate school, Consie combined the study of children’s literature with her interest in predators. She discovered that children are far more comfortable with the predator-prey relationship than most adults. This led to her first book, A Bold Carnivore. She has authored and illustrated many more award-winning

About the Lobster Mushroom

from Fascinating Fungi of the North Woods

“The Lobster” is a curious phenomenon. A large, robust white mushroom is overpowered and transformed by an orange parasite that seems to have less bodily substance than a layer of paint. The parasite constructs a crust-like mycelial cover that gradually engulfs the cap, gills and stem of the host mushroom... The gaudy orange crust holds thousands of tiny spore-producing bodies that...will eventually open to release spores. 2020-2021

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books, mostly for children but some for adults too, including Leave Only Ripples—a journal-style narrative of a day’s travel in Canoe Country. Many of her books are available at the Ely Public Library and several Ely stores. When Consie and Rog met at Carleton, it was clear they had common interests. Now, a wedding, 50 years of collaboration, and hundreds of research projects later, they have careers that lead them in different directions—often literally, as when Rog has a conference on weasels (mustelids—his specialty) in Finland and Consie is perched on a ladder sketching a sleeping Ringtail in Arizona—and also provide them with

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opportunities to blend their talents. Mammals of the North Woods is for now a culmination of their team work. (Who knows what even more momentous projects await?!) With conjoined offices in the upstairs of their solar-powered, sustainably-built home outside Ely and the companionship of a couple big, snuggly Newfies, they have the life so many wish for when they reach retirement age but aren’t ready to retire. Of course, one of their favorite pastimes is exploring nature with their grandchild. And guess what he likes to do? Take a flashlight to bed, smuggle some field guides under the covers, and stay awake past bedtime. He’s sure no one suspects!

The Ely Winter Times

© Peta Barrett

Snowshoe Perspectives

By Anne Stewart Before moving to Ely, I spent thirty some years on the Minnesota prairie near the North Dakota/South Dakota border. Although the winters were fierce and the snow deep, I found no real use for

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snowshoes. The landscape was the old lakebed of what was once glacial Lake Agassiz. Visitors to our region would say things like, “Wow, it’s really flat.” It was flat and you could see the

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© Grand Ely Lodge

curve of the earth on the horizon. In winter, mirages would appear of farmsteads out of sight on the downslope of the horizon. The wind seldom blew at less that fifteen miles an hour, and often at twenty. Windchill was not a factor; it was a fact. Throughout the winter, the prairie wind pressed the snow to hard pack day after day, and it was simple to walk on top of it. The snow blew the wind into solid drifts against fences, compacted ground cover, and in some places scraped the fields bare. One of my sons made a pair of snowshoes in some class or another out of rubber tire strips woven onto a frame. We all took turns trying them out, but they were, for us, playthings, nothing to serve a purpose. They ended up in the back of the closet and later on a table at a garage sale. In 1989 we bought land in the northern Minnesota boreal forest. We made a visit to our future homestead in March. It had snowed a lot that winter. We had no driveway, so pulled up along the side of the road, stepped out of the car and onto what seemed a solid covering of snow. We sank thigh deep. The snow had piled up, layer by layer throughout the winter, and yet it was soft and pliable. Most amazing, it had no drifts, no bare ground. It was table-top flat. 18

When we finally built our house and moved to the north woods, we bought snowshoes. We had learned it was nearly impossible to traverse a marsh or go in deep snow through the woods without snowshoes. They became a favorite transport for us as we explored any direction we wanted, moving across the winter landscape—along rocky ridges, deep in the woods, marshy wetlands and solid lakes. There was no limit to where we could go—clear to the North Pole if we had the time and desire. Over one winter holiday, we had a house full of family and associated people—from the prairie. I have snowshoes for all sizes of people, and so I led an expedition of children on my well-used trail. The next day an adult prairie dweller, new to our lifestyle, went outside with the children. They decided to show her our trail (sans snowshoes—a fact those of us inside were not aware of). When we realized certain family members hadn’t been seen for more than an hour, we began organizing a search party. The searchers were just ready to start when we saw and heard, coming up the trail toward the house, one angry adult carrying a four-year-old, one very obnoxious six-year-old who had engaged in some inappropriate language, a sevenand an eight-year-old who were complaining, and an eleven-year-old The Ely Winter Times

who did her best to help. They had ended up waist deep in snow, once losing the four-year-old as she dropped out of sight into a drift over her head. The seven- and eight-year-old had learned what “too deep” means and needed lots of help struggling sometimes over, sometimes through the snow.

The next day their adult leader and I went out with the snowshoes—her first time on them. Another prairie dweller learned the value of snowshoes. Snowshoes are one of the many things Native American people had perfected that were quickly utilized by newly-arrived Europeans who needed to survive in an unfamiliar wilderness.

Ely Women’s Snowshoe Club, photo courtesy of. Ely-Winton Historical Society 2020-2021

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The Ely Dining Guide Like the rest of the world, Ely restaurants have been struggling to stay in business in 2020. A few have decided to close for the winter and others are open with reduced dining space or take-out only, and all are following state mandates for Covid 19 protection. You can easily find comfort foods to warm you up on a winter night. Please be generous with tips to help the wait staff make up for the reduced traffic. If you’re reading this on a mobile device, just click on the name to go to the menu. We all look forward to welcoming back Brittons Cafe and the Ely Steak House in Spring. $: dinner entreés or a full meal, C: children’s menu, # location on the maps pg. 31-34 All Ely restaurants have gluten-free choices. Hours may vary.

The Boathouse • Ely’s only brewery serves seasonal brews and great food in the family dining

room or bar. Start off with duck wings, big soft pretzels or one of their other appetizers, then fill up with a burger, pulled pork or brisket sandwich, reuben, walleye fish and chips or another of their specialties. This winter they feature some mashed potato meals that will warm your inners after a cold day outdoors. Winter-only piled-high pizza. Beer in growlers to go and BW containers. Big TVs for sports. Full bar. Mon-Sat 11-8, 47 E. Sheridan St., 365-4301 $11-16, C #19

Crapola • Did you have a crappy morning? If not yet, stop on in and add some healthy fiber

to your diet with locally made, mostly organic granola, yogurt parfaits, full-of-nutrients and delicious smoothies, cookies, and fair-trade coffee. Buy extra to take home in bulk, or as gifts in pun-filled packaging. Bumper stickers and T-shirts too. Watch for their big move into the former Plum Bun Bakery space on Sheridan and 4th Avenue next spring when they will add more wholesome bakery items to their offerings. Wed-Sat 16 N First Ave, 235-6161 $5-7 #16

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Evergreen Restaurant • & Antlers Lounge at Grand Ely Lodge. Operating this winter with their full menu and open every day, all the menu items are available for take-out. B’fast, lunch, and dinner emphasize flavorful specialties like Wild Mushroom Ravioli and Caesar Prime Rib sandwich.The lounge has an extensive appetizer menu, happy hour, and free popcorn. Easy access from Trezona and snowmobile trails. Breakfast may start at 7am as the winter season gets underway. Dinner served until 9 pm. Open 365 days. 400 Pioneer Rd, 365-6565 $9-29 C #68 Front Porch • Open every day from 7 am to 2 pm, this is where to find quiche and breakfast burritos, fair trade coffee and tea, special hot chocolate flavors, chai, lattés, pastries and pie, wraps, homemade soup and chili, smoothies, muffins, and desserts. When the pandemic passes you’ll also be able to shake off the chill on a cozy couch by the fireplace and let the kids eat at their own little table in a fun playspace. 343 E Sheridan St 365-BEAN $5-8 C #31 Insula Restaurant • Call in your order from their gourmet seasonal menu with many

locally sourced and organic ingredients. Within a few minutes you can pull up to the curb and your meal will be brought right to your car. Fresh and unusual flavor blends in the New American cuisine and old favorites like reubens and fried chicken. Ask about dessert. Open TuesSat, 8-8, breakfast until 11am, 145 E. Sheridan, 365-4855 $9-32 C #20

Gator’s Grilled Cheese Emporium • Closed to café dining for the winter, but offering their comfort food for catering your parties, weddings, family get-togethers, and holiday celebrations. They are also making take-and-bake pizzas and have pasties for sale once a month. See their website or Facebook page or call for details. 955 E. Sheridan St, 365-7348 #61 Want a cocktail with that to-go meal? Although a law was passed in April permitting alcoholic beverages to be sold along with food, Ely restaurants varied in their willingness to do so due to liability. You can ask, but it’s probably best to go to a liquor store.

Fast Food Options Dairy Queen - 1441 E. Sheridan (closed for a bit around the holidays) Crapola - 16 N. 1st Ave. E Log Cabin Coffee - 1340 E. Sheridan Northland Deli - 1230 E. Sheridan Subway -1520 E Sheridan Zup’s Deli - 303 E Sheridan 22

The Ely Winter Times

Northern Grounds • Early morning espresso, roasted-on-site coffees, teas, and hot

chocolate. Build-your-own charcuterie board plus quiche, soup and sandwich specials, madefrom-scratch fresh-baked pastries, and breads. Largest wine-by-the-glass selection north of the Twin Cities plus a variety of craft beer and specialty cocktails on tap. Wine Society meets Wed. at 5 with tastings (reservations needed). Open 7am to 8pm. 2 W. Sheridan St. 365-6010 $5-8 #6

Organic Roots • Organic local foods to go or eat in the intimate setting, now with social distancing. From 11-2 you can order the fresh daily flatbreads, soups, salads, and sandwiches. Special dietary needs can be accommodated without a fuss and there are plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. At other times grab ready-to-go wraps, salads, and healthy sweets. Also bulk organic produce. Open Tues-Fri 10-5, Sat 10-3. 141 E. Chapman St 365-2799 $5-14 #21 Oriental Orchid • More than 100 Vietnamese and Chinese menu items for take-out with a variety of flavors from hot and spicy to Minnesota mild. They will be open all winter this year. Cream cheese wontons for dessert have the best sweet and sour sauce ever. Call in your order for faster service. Open 3-8 pm, closed Sundays. 506 E. Sheridan St., 365-7502 $9-18 #34

Sir G’s • Cannelloni, lasagna, chicken parmesan and more Italian meals at one of Ely’s most popular dining spots. The pasta is made by hand right there, and they season their own meat for flavorful fillings and delicious meatballs. Plenty of pizza options. Italian desserts. Wine and beer. Take-out or delivery. Open Tues-Sat, 4-9. 520 E Sheridan, 365-3688 $11-18 C #36

Stony Ridge • Ely’s best kept restaurant secret is now open 7 days a week, including breakfast on weekends. Take-out, eat-in, or get your meal delivered. 50 varieties of Ely’s biggest burgers (including a veggie choice) dominate the menu. Cozy fireplace and a full bar. Hours are 11-8 Mon-Fri, Sat 8-8, and Sunday 8-2. Closed 2-4 daily. 60 N. Lakeview, 365-6757 $12-25 C #54

Winton Roadhouse • New owners are breathing fresh life into this classic bar in downtown

Winton. They still have the popular meal-size soft pretzels plus hot dogs and pizza along with new menu items and the addition of dinners come January. Watch sports on two big TVs, play pool or darts, and listen to oldies on the juke box. Enjoy their signature Bloody Marys or your favorite beverage. Open Mon-Fri at 3, Sat 12, Sun11 until 1 am. 252 Main St, Winton, 365-3339

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The Ely Winter Times

© Les Conrad

Winter 2020-2021 Ely Area Calendar Most locations are shown on the maps on pages 31-34; church addresses are on page 35. Covid precautions in place. Area code is 218 unless noted.

NOVEMBER

© John Ratzloff

21, 10am A Taste of Ceramics ,Wheel Throwing Demo, 235-0138 Ely Folk School 23-Dec 20 Gifts that Give Fair, fair trade & local gifts benefit Ely non-profits St. Mary’s Episcopal FB page 24, 6:30 Identifying Animal Tracks, 2-hour class live online, 235-0138 Ely Folk School 26, 6-9 pm Thanksgiving Night Shopping and Shine Bright Ely Downtown Ely Fewer stores will be open, but store windows will be brightly lit for your after-dinner walk or drive thru town. 28, all day Small Town Christmas, SHOP LOCAL!, see ely.org, for store specials Downtown Ely 28, 10 am Ceramics, Wheel Throwing, 1st of 3 in-person classes, 2 hours, E235-0138 Ely Folk School 30, 6:30pm Intro to Chip Carving, Live online, 1-hour class, 235-0138 Ely Folk School

Sadly, vet checks for Wolf Track Classic won’t be open to the public this year. But you can follow the races virtually. Learn how at WolfTrackClassic.org 2020-2021

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Reflections Dance Company “Home on Earth” A Mixed Media Dance Show State Theater Dec. 12 & 13, 2pm

218-248-2227

DECEMBER

1, 6:30pm 2, 5pm 4, 6:30pm 4, midnight 5, 10 am 7, 6:30pm 9, 3pm

Reducing Anxiety with Nutrition, Zoom, 1-hour class All Things Chaga, Zoom, 2-hour class Intro to Chip Carving, Zoom, 1-hour class Ely Art Walk Artists registration due, C’mon-YOU can do this! Ceramics, Wheel Throwing, 2nd of 3 in-person classes, 2 hours Intro to Chip Carving, Zoom 1-hour class Holiday Treats, Zoom, 2-hour class

Ely Folk School Ely Folk School Ely Folk School ElyArtWalk.org Ely Folk School Ely Folk School

Cut your own Christmas tree. Permits $5 at the US Forest Service.

10, 12noon Arts in Ely Virtual Community Meet-Up register at Arts in Ely FB page Zoom This is for all arts creators and supporters to build the arts future in Ely, 1 1/2 hr discussion 10-12, 10-3 Nelimark Museum Heritage Holidays Nelimark Museum, Embarrass No coffee and treats this year, but still good cheer and delicious baked goods and hand-crafted gifts to take home 11, 9-3 Blacksmithing, Making Basic Tools, in the open-air forge building Ely Folk School 12, 10 am Ceramics, Wheel Throwing, 3rd of 3 in-person classes, 2 hours Ely Folk School 12, 1-2:30 Mrs. Claus Party for the children, ely.org Chamber of Commerce Drive-through with hand-outs of craft kits and goodies for the kids. Santa and Ms. Santa will be there to wave. 12&13, 2 pm Reflections Dance Company Winter Showcase & film of Home on Earth State Theater 12, 3:30 Holiday Celebration by Ely Folk School, no registration needed and it’s FREE Semers Park All are welcome to the bonfire, dogsled rides, cocoa and mulled wine, food, and outdoor winter fun for all ages

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The Ely Winter Times

Local Artists Outdoors Downtown February 6-28

Due to pandemic conditions as this is going to press, many events and meetings are cancelled, on hold, or online. We’ve tried to get as many details as possible, but much is uncertain. Most places are complying with state guidelines, whatever they are when an activity occurs. Many organizations will resume their in-person activities when it is safe to do so. There are plenty of streaming and website opportunities and outdoor programs where you can participate with minimal risk of exposure to Covid19. Check ely.org and What’s Up Ely Facebook page to stay up to date on happenings. Mask up to protect others and yourself, wash your hands often, and keep up your spirits with some socially-distant winter fun with your family and “pod.”

Ely Field Naturalists are not meeting, although they may occasionally have field trips. To access their Resource Center, call 365-8078.

Northwoods Partners will have some senior exercise classes with Covid precautions. To get the current schedule and locations call 365-8019.

Sisu Designs will be offering knitting classes and some Monday evening open knitting meetings on Zoom. Check SisuDesigns.org for dates and times.

Heidi Pinkerton caught these snowflakes on a mitten. Maybe this is the winter for you to try something new with your camera, or your knitting needles. 2020-2021

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13, 2pm Needle Felting—Arctic Fox, Live online, 3-hour class Ely Folk School 15, 5pm Strengthening Immune and Respiratory Systems, in-person, 1-hour class Ely Folk School 17, 4pm Winter is Here Webinar, wolf adaptations to the cold, wolf.org Int’l Wolf Ctr 19, dusk Embarrass Finnish Ice Candle Celebration 984-2084 Embarrass Cemetery A beautiful sight. Candles glow at each grave. Drive through with parking lights only. No dinner this year. 21,4pm Wolf Dynamics Webinar, Learn about alliances in the pack, Wolf.org Int’l Wolf Center 24, 5 pm Christmas Eve Service, all welcome Ledgerock Church and livestreaming on FB 26 all day Ely & Winton Christmas Bird Count, 235-8078 Ely-Winton area

JANUARY

There will be Ely Folk School classes through the winter,, especially during Winter Festival. Check website.

2, all day Isabella Christmas Bird Count, sans lasagna this year : ( 753-611 Isabella area 9, 10-4 The Acrylic Line and Watercolor, theartcorner.net The Art Corner 10 Reflections Dance Company Winter Session begins, molson727@gmail See FB page 10 Ely Youth Ski League begins, ages 4-11, eysl@elynordic.org, register early Hidden Valley To avoid contact eysl will be on a more noe-to-one basis and with online coaching. Check FB or email for info 14, 12noon Arts in Ely Virtual Community Meet-Up register at Arts in Ely FB page Zoom This is for all arts creators and supporters to build the arts future in Ely, 1 1/2 hr discussion

FEBRUARY

Get schedules for the Ely Winter Festival events online or in brochures at Ely businesses.

1-8, all day Amateur Snow Carving Contest, see clywinterfestival.org for a block Whiteside Park 4, 4pm Wolf Dynamics Webinar, Learn about alliances in the pack, Wolf.org Int’l Wolf Center 6, 10-4 Glazing with Acrylics, in-person, theartcorner.net The Art Corner 6-16 Ely Winter Festival, elywinterfestival.com Ely Area 6-28 Ely Art Walk, free guide at Front Porch, Northern Grounds, Art&Soul Downtown Ely 6, 10 and 2 Open House and campus tours VCC admissions office 6, dusk Candlelight Skiing, see info at elynordic.org Hidden Valley 12-15 Great Backyard Bird Count, BirdSource.org/gbbc Ely and USA 13, 1-3pm Snowshoe to Pictographs with Outward Bound, free 218-491-6789 Hegman Lake 13, tba Skinny/Fat Bike & Ski races, see Ely Nordic Facebook for registration info Hidden Valley 20-21 WolfTrack Classic Sled Dog Race, WolfTrackClassic.com Ely area No public activities are planned for this year, but the race can be followed on Facebook.

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The Ely Winter Times

MARCH • APRIL • MAY

Wet in Wet Painting with Acrylics, in-person, theartcorner.net 6, 10-4 9th Birthday for Boltz, webinar live from the enclosure, Wolf.org 17, 4pm Reflections Dance Company Spring Session begins 21 Apr 3, 10-4 Watercolors, Painting in Layers, in-person, theartcorner.net Apr24-25 Working for Wolves, learn and work in-person weekend, wolf.org Apr 27, 4pm 13th Birthday for Denali, the oldest pack member, webinar Wolf.org Minnesota Fishing Opener, the REAL end of winter whatever the weather May 15 May 22 all day Jeremy Hiltbrunner Cystic Fibrosis Walleye Contest, 235-8134

The Art Corner Int’l Wolf Center See FB page The Art Corner Int’l Wolf Center Int’l Wolf Center Ely Area Lakes Silver Rapids Lodge

Regularly Scheduled Events (open to all - newcomers and beginners) All week Ice skating rink open M-F 3-8, Sat 12-8, Sun 1-6 Ely Rec Center Mon thru Fri Seniors’ Dinner, noon, all ages (60+$4) 24-hrs reservation 365-4139 Sr Citizens Ctr This is still happening, but meals are to-go. Pick up or request delivery 4th Monday Care Givers Support Group, 10 am, 365-8019 Ely Hospital Conference Rm B Tuesday Tuesday Group (Speakers & discussion), 12 noon, stevieschon@gmail.com Zoom Wednesday BINGO, 1-3pm - wear a mask and sit at your own table Senior Center 3rd Wednesday Food Shelf open 11am - 6 pm 15 W. Conan 1st & 3rd Thursday Writers’ Group, 5pm, 235-1984 ZOOM for now, Boathouse Brewpub later 4th Thursday Heart of the Woods Quilters, 6:30 pm, 365-4907 Ledgerock Church basement Saturday What’s for Dinner? 7pm, 365-4695 Int’l Wolf Center Sunday See church services and locations in Spiritual Gatherings, page 35. Ely Community Health Center (FREE services)

Thursday Free Clinic, 5:30-7 for a telehealth visit. In-person visit to follow as needed 2nd Monday Fluoride treatment to prevent and arrest tooth decay, 5:30-6 Varied days Insurance navigation help for Medicare, Medical Assistance, MnCare, MnSure The above require appointments. To request one, leave a message at 365-5678 or email director@ElyCommunityHealth.org to request a time. Some Wednesdays Vitals checks at Sr. Center, no appointment needed Some additional senior programs are planned to start this winter. 2020-2021

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Finding Fun in Today’s World There may be fewer options for getting out of the house than most winters in Ely because so many activities have been cancelled, but you can still find something fun to do. This might be the winter to try something new!

• Take a class from Ely Folk School

Blacksmithing is in a well-ventilated space outside the regular classroom building. The new ceramics space provides social distancing. Online classes are available, and some are free.

• Take a spin on a fat-tire bike

Or a kick sled. The kids would love it! Ely Bike & Kicksled can rent you one.

• Check out the library

Blacksmith class at Ely Folk School

• Visit the Ely-Winton History Museum The building is closed, but you can view the catalog, check out books and download e-books and audio books by calling 365-5140 or going to elylibrary.org. Wifi is available in the parking lot, password is on the door.

• Build a Little Free Library

And stock it with books, ready to install in spring.

• Go to the movies

The State Theater has a special air system that protects against virus transmission. Often, especially weekdays, there are very few guests so your exposure will be minimal.

This is another spot unlikely to be crowded. Open Tues and Wed 10-4. Amazing how many Elyites have never been there, and it is classy!

• Volunteer!

Doing something for others will make you feel better. Help is needed at the Ely Food Shelf, Ely Winter Festival, Northwoods Partners, Ely Nordic and Ely Igloo Snowmobile clubs, Ely Community Resource, and many other places. Check out FB for contact info.

• Grow Microgreens

• Do the Art Mural Walk

Add some flavor and nutrition to your winter meals for very little cost.

• Make a play date for your dog

You can enjoy all the luxuries of a fancy hotel stay right here in Ely—hot tub, pool, sauna, game room, free meals for the kids—at Grand Ely Lodge. Ask about special rates for local residents.

Get a brochure at Art & Soul or the Front Porch. See page 4 for more info. Then meet outdoors where they can romp safely. The chalet area at Hidden Valley might be a good choice—but definitely not the groomed trails. Don’t have a pet? Consider adopting one from Contented Critters, a no-kill shelter. See those needing a home on the FB page. 30

• Give yourself a vacation

• Tour Dorothy’s Cabins

The Dorothy Molter museum has tours Wed-Sat by reservation only to limit contact. Root beer is available! The Ely Winter Times

SNOWMOBILE & SMALL ENGINE REPAIR

Whether you are moving snow or riding over it, Joe’s Marine & Repair can help. Mechanics are on duty and parts are in stock. 25 W. Chapman St., 219-365-6264

Maps of the Ely Area Downtown Area

Camp St. 4 3 5 17 18 19

1

20 27 28

30

31 32 33

37

35

34 36

26 29

10 12 11 16

7

21

Whiteside Park

Sheridan St. 8 6

25 Chapman St.

14 22

24

13 23 15

Harvey St. 38 8 Ave

2

Central Av.

9

Art & Soul Gallery & Gifts The Art Corner The Boathouse Brandenburg Gallery Canoe Capital Realty Chapman St. Bookstore Crapola City Hall/Fire/Police Ely Area Credit Union Ely Bike and Kicksled Ely Bloomenson Pharmacy Ely Clinic and Hospital Ely Community Resource Ely Drop and Shop Ely Field Naturalist Res. Ctr Ely Folk School Ely Free Clinic Ely Outfitting Company

33 1 19 17 27 21 16 25 9 4 2 2 38 26 11 27 38 37

Ely Public Library Ely Surplus Store Ely Steam Bath Evergreen Cottage The Front Porch Gardner Trust Gracie’s Plantworks Insula Restaurant J&L Hardware Joe’s Marine & Repair Kekekabic Studio Kondos Outdoors Lakeshore Liquor A Laundry Room Mealey’s Gift & Sauna Mike’s Liquor Northern Grounds Oriental Orchid

4 Ave

1st E

Conan St.

24 4 15 22 31 23 8 20 14 7 14 21 35 35 3 32 6 34

School

Organic Roots Bistro The Pebble Spa Piragis Northwoods Co Prairie Fire Tobacco Post Office Potluck Kitchenware Senior Center Sir G’s Sisu Yarn Shop State Farm State Theater Steger Mukluks Save the Boundary Waters Wildlife Liquor Wintergreen Northern Wear Women’s Wilderness Zup’s Grocery LITTLE FREE LIBRARIES

21 28 5 21 23 16 13 36 7 12 29 18 26 10 27 32 30

Please thank our advertisers for providing you with this free publication.

2020-2021

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Public Landing

Shagawa Lake

Pioneer Rd

68 69 55 Public Landing

Miners Lake

59 58 Main St.

55

54

r St. Chandle W.Shagawa Rd.

M

55

Washington St.

56 Madison St. 60

Camp St.

10 Ave

8 Ave

Whiteside

6 Ave

57

Harvey St. 1st E

Central Av

1st W

62

61 Sheridan St. Chapman St.

2nd W

Hwy 169 to Tower

3rd W

See Detailed Downtown Area Map on Page 39

12 Ave

Semer’s Park

Dr. iner’s

Conan St. School

Hospital & Clinic

White St.

52

Pattison St.

Ice Arena

50 James St. Boundary St. Wilson St.

Golf Course

Hwy 21 to Babbitt

Please thank our advertisers for providing you with this free publication.

Beacon Hill

Adventure Inn Amici’s Event Center Arrowhead Outdoors Dorothy Molter Museum Ely-Bloomenson Hosp./Clinic Ely Northland Market Ely Rec Center, Skating Rink Ely Tourism & Chamber

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62 50 64 73 52 57 58 67

Snowmobile trail maps are free at many businesses and the Chamber of Commerce. For snowmobile events and trail conditions see the Ely Igloo Facebook page. Ski and snowshoe trail maps are available at Piragis Northwoods Co. and the Forest Service. For more area XC skiing info see www.ElyNordic.org. Road and mountain bike routes are described at BikeEly.com

Ely-Winton History Museum 66 Evergreen Restaurant 68 Gators Grilled Cheese Emporium 61 Grand Ely Lodge 68 Hidden Valley Recreation Area 72 International Wolf Center 71 Miners Dry, Arts & Heritage Ctr 69 Northland Paranormal 60

The Ely Winter Times

ELY CALENDAR PARKING November 1 through May 31

Pioneer Rd

55

Park on the North or West side on odd numbered days, the South or East side on even numbered days. You may park on the next day’s side after 6pm.

Hwy 88

Savoy Rd 55 17 Ave

74 Vermilion Community College 66

70 Hwy 169 to Winton/Fernberg Trail

Sheridan St. 71 73

15 Ave

63

Cemetery

53

Hi dd

en

Kawishiwi Tr Va lle y

Rd .

72 Hwy 1 to Airport and North Shore

14 Ave

67

64

Pillow Rock R & R Transfer Storage Recycling Center Stony Ridge Cafe & Cabins Trezona Trail Wolf Track Classic Start USFS Visitor Center VCC Admissions

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LITTLE FREE LIBRARIES

59 74 53 54 55 63 70 66

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82 Echo Trail

WINTON Burntside Lake

Hwy 88

95

93 94

Shagawa Lake

87

Fall Lake 83 88

Kawishiwi Tr 89

Ely

92 Fernberg

Garden Lake Farm Lake

Hwy 169

White Iron Lake

Hwy 1 81

Hwy 21

86

91

90

85 84

Alder Place Babbitt & Embarrass Bear Head State Park Camps Du Nord and Widji Chilly Dogs Sled Dog Trips Janisch Realty Kawishiwi Falls Koschak Farm North Arm Ski Trails St. Louis Co. Landfill Silver Rapids Lodge South Farm Ski Trails Veteran’s on the Lake Voyageur Outward Bound White Wilderness Dogsled Winton Road House Wintergreen Dogsledding

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85 85 81 82 84 81 88 94 82 85 89 91 83 86 86 87 90

Flowers from Cecilia as a gift to our readers.

The Ely Winter Times

Ely Spiritual Gatherings To cope with Covid 19 all in-person church services and 12-step meetings require compliance with current state mandates. At press time that included social distancing and masks. Several gatherings are streaming live, meeting on Zoom, or creating archives. Details were changing this fall as Covid cases escalated, so for the latest info check FB pages and websites or call.

Churches

Berean Baptist Church 2281 Hwy 169 365-5413 Sun 10:30 Ely Gospel Church 3 E Allaire St 365-5272 Sun 10, Wed 6:30 In-person and livestreaming on YouTube at their channel, Ely Gospel Church First Lutheran Church LC MS 915 E Camp St 365-3348 Sun 10:30 In person and Luther Hour at 7 am with local service excerpt at 7:30 am on WELY First Presbyterian Church 226 E Harvey St 365-5130 Sun 11 No in-person services; attend in real time at ElyPresbyterian.org/livestream Grace Lutheran Church ELCA 301 E Conan St 365-5605 Sun 9:30 No in-person; livestreaming on FB and archived on YouTube Ledgerock Comm. Church 1515 E Camp St 365-4890 Sun 9:30 In-person with overflow areas for social distance. Livestream on FB, audio on web, archives Connect at LedgerockChurch.com. Christmas Eve service at 5 pm Oasis Int’l Church Ely Senior Center 235-1151 Sun 10 In-person and livestreaming on FB at Oasis International Praise Fellowship Christian 302 E Boundary St 365-6033 Sun 10 In-person, Bible study at 9 am St. Anthony’s Catholic Church 231 E Camp St 365-4017 Sat 9 am, 5 pm, Sun 10 In-person and livestreaming on FB; no events or meetings in basement T, Th, F 8am St. Mary’s Episcopal Church 715 S Central Av 409-6870 Sun 9:30 Meeting on Zoom, email for invitation ElyStMarys@gmail.com United Methodist Church of Ely 305 E Camp St 365-3355 Sun 10 In-person with limited attendance, livestreaming on FB

Ely Area 12-Step Meetings

AlAnon Babbitt Woodland Presbyterian Church Ely AlAnon, small meeting in homes, call CJ at 235-8964 for details Alcoholics Anonymous Women’s, Open – Ledgerock Church Miracle on Camp St, open – 1st Lutheran Church Babbitt Big Book open, ZOOM Ely Open – 1st Lutheran Church Lake Vermilion 12X12, open ZOOM Babbitt Back2Basics, open ZOOM Happy, Joyous, and Free, open ZOOM Open meeting - 1st Lutheran Church 2020-2021

Thu 7 pm Sun 8pm Mon noon Mon 7 pm Tue 7 pm Wed 8 pm Thu 7 pm Fri 7 pm Sat 7:30 pm 35

By Becca Brin Manlove Photos by Celin Williams

Gnome of the North Arm Gnomes (tomte in Swedish) are protectors of a farm or woodland and the animals and people who live there. They are helpful, fun-loving little people, fond of music, dancing, and mischief. They can be easily offended. A person who shows them disrespect, harms their animal friends, or is greedy will feel the sting of their anger. My new heartthrob, Mike, was caretaker for YMCA Camp du Nord on the North Arm of Burntside Lake northwest of Ely. He was eager for me to meet his friend, Thor Nordwall. We hiked up a rocky road, then up a steep trail. A sod-roofed log cabin, called Torsbacke (Thor’s Hill in Swedish), materialized out of the forest floor like a mushroom. Mike

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shouted, “Hello the cabin!” He pulled a latch string to lift a bar on the inside of the wooden door. From the secluded location, I expected to meet something of a hermit, but the small cabin was packed with people. Well-known in this crowd, Mike was pulled in with loud laughter and back-thumping hugs. He drew me into the room. Thor, a short, strong man, sat on the stone hearth bouncing his baby grandson on his knee. His welcome was warm, but in the swirl of activity we didn’t say a lot. Mike and I stayed only a short while. Still, my heart knew I’d met someone special. By the time Mike and I were married, seven months later, Thor and I were old

The Ely Winter Times

friends. Thor was an adjunct staff person at the Camp. He and I co-led storytelling campfires and family dances. On one occasion I misled a group of adults to his cabin. When we finally stumbled into his clearing, people laughed about my taking them “the long way.” Thor was amazed to hear I’d gotten lost. Thor hosted our du Nord staff of ten to watch Ely fireworks on the Fourth of July. We pulled cans of beer from the mossy rain barrel and lolled in the grass on his roof. The fireworks were impressive but we were pretty far away. The explosion of stars seemed closer and more spectacular. Thor had a big, beautiful book, Gnomes by Wil Huygen. The charming illustrations were pictures of Thor lookalikes wearing red conical caps. I began to have suspicions. For our annual Thanksgiving gathering at Torsbacke one year, I covered a cone of poster board with red felt and made a shoestring lace at the back so it could be tightened onto Thor’s head. On New Year’s Day, we snowshoed up to Thor’s cabin with our three-week-old son snug 2020-2021

inside my jacket. At the top of the trail, I paused to catch my breath. From behind a snow-covered stack of firewood, a red pointy hat slowly emerged. A grinning red-cheeked, white-bearded gnome’s face followed. Even though I’d made the hat, Thor looked so much like a gnome, I almost fell off my snowshoes. One tomte punishment is to force the offender to dance until they collapse. Thor danced a foot-stomping, elbowsand-knees-flying polka. More than once, I’ve dropped into a chair after a couple of dances with him while he moved on to fresh partners. Never mind he was thirtyfour years my senior. At our wedding, between jitterbugs with my dad and polkas with Thor, I had just enough energy for a few slow dances with my groom. That suited Mike just fine. He wasn’t a dancer. When our daughter, Celin, and her husband, Sean, were married at Camp du Nord thirty-four years later, Thor led me on a wild romping turn around the dance floor. He was ninety-five. Thor’s magic power lay in how he shared a dream. He led with such enthusiasm that others adopted it as their own. By the time his vision became 37

reality, many people had given heart and energy to the project. The original dreamer, like a tomte, was barely visible. He was off in the forest of people and time, grinning and doing a jig of thanks. Four of his dreams for the North Arm woodland came to fruition with nothing short of Thor’s magic. Telling just a single dream is like teasing one noodle out of a clump of spaghetti. They are glued together by overlapping time, helpers, and his love of the North Arm woods. In 1966, Thor was on the board of Camp du Nord, which operated only in summer. His dream was for the camp to stay open through winter. Other board members raised many practical objections. Thor became impatient. In the middle of winter, he enchanted Ruth, his first wife, and their three boys with visions of du Nord in winter. The boys were 11, 9, and 7. He loaded them all up and drove north from the Twin Cities. Objections probably formed in his wife’s mind as Thor shoveled a space for their

38

car at the entrance to the camp. They loaded a tumble of supplies into plastic sleds. The kids and Ruth waded along behind Thor on snowshoes. Two hundred yards felt like miles. At twenty below zero, the snow was hard and icy. Thor chose Belfry, a small one-room cabin with a wood stove in the center, for their stay. The first order of business was to chop kindling and haul wood from a nearby woodshed. Carting more supplies from the car kept some of the group warm while Thor built a fire. Inside, the cabin felt colder than outdoors. Mattresses and walls absorbed the heat of the occupants before the stove added warmth. Ruth made meals in a larger cabin with a big wood range. She and the boys spent most of their time in that kitchen. The barrel stove in Belfry kept the small space either too hot or too cold. I’ve wondered if that weekend wasn’t a big step toward Thor and Ruth’s eventual divorce. But Thor returned to the board triumphant. Spellbound with tales and pictures of north woods winter beauty,

The Ely Winter Times

the board agreed. They would begin a winter program. By 1981, when I joined Mike as a year-round caretaker, du Nord had six winter cabins heated with propane. Belfry was the caretaker’s cabin, so became our honeymoon cottage. Two newer buildings had storm windows and heat tapes in the water lines. One bore the name “Thor’s Lodge” because Thor was a driving force in its construction. He inspired many volunteer crews to spend their weekends working on the log-kit building. We “winterized” the older three cabins by stapling sheets of plastic over the windows. Water for each of these cabins was stored in a metal trash can perched on the counter top (see that story in my book Hauling Water; third printing available soon through Legacy Toys). All of the guests and staff used outhouses. The cabins filled up every weekend and often during the week with

2020-2021

families and college groups eager to experience a north woods winter. Forty years later, du Nord’s winter program now includes four more camps serving hundreds of people. I doubt Thor’s original vision reached that size, but magic sometimes begets more magic. The story of another dream, his handhewn log cabin, is best told by Thor in his book, Torsbacke (available in Ely at Piragis’ and in White Bear Lake at The Booksellers). Building a remote cabin might seem to be a self-centered goal, but imbued with Thor’s magic it became a dream fulfilled, a home cherished by many. The latch string was always out for du Nord staff, neighbors, family, North Star Ski Touring Club friends, and friends of friends of friends. They were offered a cup of coffee that was strong when first percolated and almost chewy after reheating on the woodstove. In summer, cans of beer floated in the rain barrel. In

39

winter, wine and beer chilled in the back room. For those with dead taste buds, he might pour a shot of Aquavit (Swedish paint thinner). Food and beverages offered to guests greatly improved when Audry came into his life, but that’s a noodle I’m saving for later. Thor’s guiding inspirations were carved into the door and mantel. On the door was a quote from Samuel Johnson, “Nothing will be attempted if all possible objections must first be overcome.” Objections irritated Thor. And on the mantel in Swedish, “Varm brasa med goda vanner.” Warm fire with good friends. I don’t know how many other dreams of home were spawned by Torsbacke, but 40

Mike and I soon built a log home on a hilltop. We raised our two children there. Thirty years later, I sold it to two friends who also cherish it. Now I have a little cabin beside a big lake. The former owners kindly left behind three tomte to guard this dear place. Two Thor look-alikes, one perched on the back of the other, are clowning beside the door. My granddaughter, a toddler, has deep conversations with these two. Near the outhouse, another tomte waves as he tows a little garden cart. Thor reminds me, "Fun with good friends” and “Happy caretaking.” Cross country skiing was the main draw for du Nord winter campers. This The Ely Winter Times

supported another of Thor’s visions—a system of ski trails near the North Arm Road. From the doorstep of Torsbacke, Thor traipsed off into the woods. The first ‘trails’ were two old logging roads and a primitive hiking trail. But Thor wasn’t confined to trails. Often with younger friends struggling to keep up, he stamped a track off into the brush. Thor chuckled about sliding over ‘whoopie bushes’ on downhills. In the wake of his short, churning legs and big vision, more skiers dreamt of trails. Thor befriended Paul Smith, Recreation Manager for the Superior National Forest. Paul was an avid trail builder and cross-country skier. Mike, who later became a trail engineer for the Forest Service, apprenticed with Thor and Paul on the North Arm ski/hiking system as it grew. Portions following old logging roads had to be rerouted off of private land. To build and then maintain all those kilometers of trails requires the work and love of many people. Thor drew together the Forest Service, local skiers, the North Star Ski Touring Club, and Camp du Nord staff. Fall and spring trailbuilding and clearing weekends became annual events. Hallmarks of the weekends continue to be hard work, pride in kilometers completed, laughter, the birth of friendships, and dancing to the point of collapse. Thor dreamt of a partner with whom he could share Torsbacke, his love of skiing, and life. Audry was a member of the North Stars. She watched with quiet amusement as he danced with other women. But when the two of them fell into step with each other, Thor found more than a beautiful skier in his arms. She was calm, funny, and an adventurer. Thor knew he was a lucky man when she agreed to marry him in 1988. Audry’s deep love and adventurous spirit enriched Thor’s life for thirty-one years. Torsbacke and those of us who hovered there are also enriched by her love and spirit, not to mention her lefse. We love her right back. Thor died near the end of the ski 2020-2021

season last winter. He was a month shy of 99 years old. Audry with Dan Delano, one of his grandsons, and other loved ones put together an online service due to COVID 19. The funeral has had more than 600 views. A veteran of World War II, Thor is buried at Fort Snelling. But I suspect Thor’s spirit lingers as a tomte. If you ski the North Arm Trails this winter, be kind and respectful to all beings you encounter. Pause for a few moments. The chuckles you hear might not be from a stream flowing beneath the ice. If your ski catches on a pinecone and you do a faceplant, clear snow from your eyes quickly. Look around. You might catch a glimpse of a little red cap shaking with the laughter of Tomte Thor hiding behind an old white pine. Say hello to him for me. Say thank you.

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Clearing roads on the Iron Range after the Armistice Day Blizzard

Armistice Day Blizzard This is an article written by Mike Hillman and originally published in the 2006 Ely Winter Times. Photos are courtesy of Ely-Winton Historical Society. Mike knew plenty of Ely history, although he never let facts get in the way of telling a good story. He died in 2014, and we miss his tales, so will occasionally reprint the ones he shared. On Sunday morning November 10th, 1940, no one in Ely, Minnesota was thinking about a blizzard. The First World War Marine veterans in town from the Last Man Standing Club were heading down to Duluth to celebrate the 165th birthday of the Corps, and the Dough Boys—Army veterans—were set to celebrate Armistice Day in the Blue Room of the Forest Hotel the following evening. It was hard to believe that twenty-two years had passed since the Great War ended on the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month of 1918. Now attention was again being given to events in Europe and Asia, and there were hopes that America could avoid becoming involved in the growing crisis. On this Sunday, Ely woke up to blue skies and temperatures in the mid-fifties. The wind, often blustery in the autumn, was sound asleep. Duck hunters’ hopes

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for bad weather and good hunting were dampened by the radio's morning weather reports. This day wasn't one to hunt ducks. It was exactly what a duck hunter didn't want–one more bluebird day where you couldn't reach a mallard with a howitzer. The radio out of Duluth was saying that the warm Indian Summer weather, which had been the talk of the fall, was coming to a halt sometime Monday. A storm had dumped a load of snow in the Rocky Mountains and was heading across the Great Plains. Nobody at the National Weather Service thought the storm was anything to worry about. Most storms expended themselves in the mountains and offered little concern to anyone. On this beautiful morning in God's Country, the storm was the last thing on anyone’s mind. Many people in Ely concluded that it

The Ely Winter Times

was just too beautiful a morning to waste on church. There would be plenty of cold and blustery Sabbaths ahead, but this Sunday might be the end of Indian Summer, and they wanted to take advantage of the good weather. Over Saturday night cards, two couples made plans for one last hurrah—a Sunday summer picnic up the Echo Trail. The women were excited. The kids were staying home, and it would be a chance for them to relax and enjoy one last summery day. The men talked about the prospects of taking some grouse on the drive to and from the picnic. It hadn’t been a good season for grouse. Last winter was short on snow, and there was little to shelter the ruffed grouse from the relentless cold, so this year the birds were few and far between. But that did little to diminish the excitement of the hunt. The men put their canvas coats along with their guns into the overfull car

trunk, the women grabbed the last of the picnic fixings and, feeling frisky with the warmth, jumped into the cars barefoot. The Echo Trail, a one-lane dirt road with turn-outs, had unusually heavy traffic. Many people were out making the most of the day. As picnic preparations were in progress, a late season tropical storm was working its way north. The warm moist air was quickly picked up by the low-pressure system moving across the American heartland. If that had been the only influence on the now-replenished storm system, the storm would have been limited to heavy rains, but there was one other factor no one anticipated. An extreme high-pressure system covered most of western Canada with a blanket of very cold air. This combination of warm and wet contacting cold and dry, and all of it bracketing a strong low pressure system, turned an ordinary November Sheridan Street, 1908

2020-2021

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storm into a killer blizzard that impacted people from southern Nebraska to northern Minnesota. It is hard to say just when Picnic Sunday went sour, because everything happened so fast. The day had been fine as the Ely friends headed out. The men were excited by the two birds they shot on the way up the Echo. The women had basked in the sun, chatting and happy for a break from children and chores. They chose a picnic spot along the shore of Meander Lake and were nibbling the last bits of fried chicken and starting in on the apple pie when clouds suddenly created a chilly shadow. The wind picked up, and without a warning the rain started to pour down, seemingly out of nowhere.

This picture is labeled “looking for boxcars in 4 feet of snow� and dated 1913 The picnickers quickly gathered up the soggy makings of their dinner and scrambled back to the car. In a short time the women lamented their missing shoes, but everyone was glad when blankets and canvas coats came out of the trunk to help counter the rapidly dropping temperature. In less than two hours the wind was blowing at more than fifty miles Ely Train Depot, 1911

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The Ely Winter Times

an hour and the temperature, which had been in the mid-sixties at noon, was down in the thirties. Relentlessly, the storm pulled the frigid Canadian air into its vortex, turning the rain to sleet and then to snow. When the conglomeration of ice and snow froze on the gravel surface of the Echo Trail, the car couldn't make it up one of the big hills. Luckily, the owner of the car seldom cleaned out the trunk, and the chains that had never been needed in last winter's meager snow were still there. It was those chains, left and forgotten in the bottom of the car's dusty trunk, which got the wayward foursome safely home before the Armistice Day Blizzard closed down the town. The storm got worse that night, raged on through Armistice Day Monday, and blew right through Tuesday. On Wednesday morning the winds finally began dying down, and people came out of hiding to assess the effects of the storm. The winds had blown steadily at sixty miles an hour, and gusts as high as eighty miles an hour were recorded during the three-day blow. Because of the wind, it was hard to determine exactly how much snow had fallen in Ely during the storm. Drifts in the Ely streets were piled between five and six feet deep. The best estimate the Ely Miner Newspaper could make was seventeen inches. The Portage River Civilian Conservation Corps Camp, which was sheltered by the

forest, recorded an official snowfall of sixteen inches. The Minnesota daily snowfall records for November 11, 12 and 13 were set during the storm and still stand with 14, 16 and 15 inches of snow, respectively. Orr is the location of the November 11th record. Everyone was happy to learn that no one in the Ely area died due to the storm, although some heroism was required. Andrew Williams was hiking with his brother on Lac LaCroix when the storm hit. The two brothers lacked proper clothing, and by the time they made their way to the Indian village on the lake, Andrew's feet were frozen. Roy Burntside walked through the blizzard's horrendous winds for more than a day and a half to Handberg's Resort on Crane Lake to call for help. When appraised of the situation, local authorities called on the legendary bush pilot William Leithold to come to the rescue. On a gray day when five inches of snow fell and the ceiling was

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just above tree top level, Leithold landed a plane on Lac LaCroix’s cold and choppy waters to rescue Andrew Williams. When questioned about his heroic actions Leithold replied, “It was all in a day’s work.” It was too bad that more people weren’t as lucky as Andrew Williams, who lost a few toes to the blizzard, but remained alive to tell about it. When the effects of the Armistice Day Blizzard were tallied in the following weeks, it was determined that the storm front covered a distance of slightly more than a thousand miles. In Minnesota, 49 people, mostly duck hunters caught out on islands, were dead. Nationally 150 people were dead, including 66 sailors whose ships capsized on Lake Michigan in the Winds of Hell. One million

Thanksgiving turkeys died on Minnesota farms during the blizzard. One permanent change that resulted from the Armistice Day Blizzard of 1940 was that the National Weather Service was staffed 24 hours a day, every day of the year. That practice continues today. And after 1940, people in Ely always remembered to bring their shoes to late autumn picnics.

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The Ely Winter Times

What’s Up in Ely? New Views There are going to be some fresh looks around Ely in the coming months, starting with a new logo that will soon be seen on police cars, marketing materials, and eventually, when it needs a new coat of paint, the iconic Ely water tower. After much consultation with Ely businesses and residents, the logo was adopted by the City of Ely, the Chamber of Commerce, and the Ely Area Tourism Bureau. The attractive logo is part of an energetic branding effort intended to build on Ely’s appeal to tourists and potential new residents as well as the pride locals take in being from Ely. Local marketing and graphic design professionals worked together to create a memorable image that would adapt to everything from billboard-size signs to embroidery on T-shirts. Another new view taken on by the Ely Area Tourism Bureau is the Facebook page “What’s Up Ely MN.” With huge thanks to Connie Loisell for making it one of the most-visited Ely-oriented FB pages ever, the Bureau will maintain the site for the same purposes: immediate

Detail from The Bus Depot 2020-2021

news around Ely such as road closures and missing or found pets, information on upcoming events, business deals and non-profit needs, Ely area photos, and questions and answers about such specific Ely concerns as sources for firewood, where to ride dirt bikes, and what to do about beavers cutting down the trees in your yard. Views and videos of long stretches of wild lakeshore, hundreds of miles of wilderness trails, and wildlife seen closeup and personal will impress potential visitors and stimulate fond memories for those who don’t get to spend as much time here as they’d like. For more you can follow on Instagram and Facebook. #VisitElyMN “Ely has more stories per square inch than any other place I’ve been,” stated one well-traveled Elyite. Now anyone can listen to or tell Ely stories on the podcast “My Ely Story.” Brett Ross of WELY is heading up this venture and says “Over the last two decades...I’ve been able to capture and share many of these stories. Now, we’ll share even more of the history, culture, entrepreneurship, creative endeavors, wilderness adventures, and tales of resilience, struggle and survival that converge in Ely.” To listen or download these podcasts, search My Ely Story or reach out to VisitElyMN.org. Another long-awaited viewing— movies! Every day! In the elegant and Covid-precaution-compliant Ely State Theater. There are classics, and newer films, documentaries and series, changing every week. See the offerings 47

on the marquee, in the papers, and at ElyStateTheater.com. The theater is being managed by a non-profit and was hit by Covid19 just as it was opening, so if you can, please donate along with the very affordable ticket price, and buy some popcorn to help out too. A new sound, accompanied by a new view, is the song “Lost Underground,” a reminiscence with bluesy overtones and winter images. Ely musician Barbara Cary Hall has paired up with videographer (and musician) Christopher David Hanson to give us the best song since “I Want to Grow Old in Ely.” Settle into a soft sofa with a glass of smooth wine, or Scotch if you prefer, and listen to it several times for a sentimental stress reliever. You can find it on Barb’s or Christopher’s Facebook page. What’s up literally? Go outdoors and look up on a clear winter night in the Ely area and you’ll undoubtedly see stars. That’s not the case everywhere. Most city night skies now are so bright from electric lighting that only a very few stars can be seen. City dwellers and even

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many people living in small towns, including Ely, sleep bathed in light, and this is proving to be unhealthy. Light shining where it is not needed—like up in the sky or into your bedroom window— wastes energy. On average Americans waste about 35% of their night lighting. Seeing a night sky full of stars is becoming so rare that there is now a rapidly expanding tourism business built around traveling to someplace dark enough to view the thousands of stars visible to the human eye. And the exciting news is that last September the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness was designated as one such place by The International Dark-Sky Association (IDA). It is only the 13th location in the world to receive recognition as a Dark Sky Sanctuary, and it is the largest area worldwide. Receiving this honor from the IDA requires a rigorous application process that proves support from local communities and demonstrates their efforts and commitment to minimize light pollution in the future. Ely, Duluth,

The Ely Winter Times

and Grand Marais are all working to become Dark Sky Communities. You can learn more about the places that still have starlight and about the importance of darkness for health and energy consumption at DarkSky.org On some dark night, have you suspected your house might have some spirits living in it that aren’t one of the normal residents? Or maybe you’d like a little thrill while learning some of Ely’s history. Northland Paranormal, a new entrepreneurial Ely entity, is here to help you with some logical looks at those rattlings in your attic (just squirrels, or

air in the pipes?) and provide some entertainment and educational experiences as well. Owner Dan Amitrano got started in the paranormal business when a remodeling effort caused an increase in the thumps in the night that the residents had already been experiencing. “It’s not like the shows,” Dan explains. “You don’t figure it out in a half hour.” Dan’s work and equipment is based in science, using magnetic field readings, digital recordings, and historical reports. He is adamant about verifying his results and confirming that what he records matches

The Pleiades, a deep space photo taken on the shore of White Iron Lake by Richard Willits. This kind of photography is only possible where the skies are truly dark. 2020-2021

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his clients’ observations. At the house with the remodeling project he was able to record a child’s voice, capture an image of concentrated energy, and eventually cleanse the home, which no longer experiences the unsettling disruptions in their basement. Dan plans to hold some ghost storytelling campfires featuring local history and perhaps do an overnight tour of historic sites (breakfast included) such as those offered in some other towns popular with tourists. He’s eager to collaborate with other businesses in Ely that might have ideas to provide visitors with memorable experiences. So message Dan or call or text him at 2359864 if you have concerns about weird phenomena in your home (he doesn’t charge for investigations) or if you’d like

to collaborate on a business idea or a charitable fund-raiser. There’s a new look coming to the west side of town, where development is already underway for a Welcome Center and trailhead facility along Highway 169. Ambitious plans for a rest stop-style building with an information kiosk, cultural displays, restrooms, maps, and more got a big boost when the state legislature approved a $1.5 million contribution to the project. Here visitors will be able to find parking with plenty of room for trailers and RVs. They will head out on the Prospector’s Loop ATV trail, access the 165-mile Taconite Trail on snowmobiles, or bike, hike, or ski on the non-motorized Mesabi Trail, which includes Ely’s Trezona Trail to the Wolf Center and Forest Service and extends

A building like this is planned for the new Welcome Center and Trailhead. 50

The Ely Winter Times

means a lot less driving for veterans who live in the much of the Arrowhead region, since Hibbing is the next closest. In spite of the craziness, Ely had a good summer last year, although the success was far from universal. It seems now that so many people are working from home, they’d like home to be their favorite place, and Ely is a favorite for many. The view of the future here is looking good!

© Hailey Worth

west all the way to Grand Rapids with spurs to all the towns along the Iron Range. The Ely Veterans Clinic on Miners Drive is also getting a new look. An expansion that’s under way will double the space for the clinic that now serves 450-500 veterans annually, allowing that number to increase and providing extra rooms for exams, treatment, and telehealth conferencing. One of 15 such facilities in Minnesota, the Ely clinic

Ely nights with a headlamp provide a photogenic view of snowy trees. 2020-2021

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Books for Blizzards Wolf Island begins with a riveting story of a young graduate student watching from a bush plane as a pack of wolves kill a moose calf, then landing nearby to snowshoe into the kill site where 16 hungry wolves were devouring their prey. Not much was known about wolf behavior at that moment, and the student carried both a .38 revolver and a movie camera. No spoiler alert here, but he did live to become the world’s foremost expert on wolves and changed the perception of them from insatiable killer to wilderness icon. This book is a recounting of scientific research in the 1950s on the wild island that Isle Royale was at that time, but it reads more like an adventure tale. David Mech spent three summers hiking the trails, boating the shoreline, and flying over the forests to study the habits of wolves before collars and GPS tracking.

Chapman Street Books

Quality used books on all subjects. Bring yours in for a discount. Big free box. Also home to Prairie Fire Tobacco, with imported and domestic blends. 139 E. Chapman St. 218-365-2212 52

He went on to a distinguished career in wildlife research, continuing the Isle Royale study to this day to make it one of the longest animal behavior research projects ever. Always interested in sharing his discoveries with the general public, Mech was the founder of Ely’s International Wolf Center. But Wolf Island is about those first summers and will please anyone with an interest in wilderness adventure, Lake Superior, or wildlife. Whatta Life is another book to take readers back to earlier decades in Ely. In the 60s and 70s, the area known to locals as Sandy Point, now the Shagawa Lake boat landing near Grand Ely Lodge on the west and a private residence on the east, was the site of a booming bush plane business owned by Pat Magie. From there countless anglers, hunters, and paddlers began their canoe trips with a float plane trip to get them deep into the wilderness quickly, and vacationers traveled to fly-in resorts scattered throughout what is now the BWCAW. Pilots came from all over the U.S. to get certified on floats and skis at Pat’s flight school. Rescues of injured or ill travelers in Canoe Country were based out of here. The Ely Winter Times

As you can imagine, such activities gave birth to plenty of stories. Whatta Life is full of tales that take place on lakes with names familiar to anyone who travels in the B-dub, as it was called. There are also plenty of stories from Pat’s aviation experiences in Hawaii and Alaska, his USMC stint, and other episodes from his more than 40,000 hours of flight time. From humorous to harrowing, this is as good a read of Ely history as you’ll find anywhere. Land of 10,000 Plates mixes recipes and stories with Minnesota heritage to cook up a book that’s equal parts sentimental and practical. Although she gives a nod to the bland Scandinavian style of Minnesota traditional food,

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author Patrice Johnson steps boldly into “seasonings outside of the Holy Midwest Trinity of salt, pepper, and ketchup.” To wit—the very first recipe is Hmong Hotdish, which she first tasted at the State Fair. The second recipe, following several pages of fun philosophical musings on food and family, is an elegant New Year’s Eve Fondue. Garlic and Old Bay Seasoning are common ingredients, along with alternatives to canned cream soup, ensuring that no taste buds shall go unstimulated. Spam takes its place in the undying salute to Depression necessity, but here it is paired, astonishingly, with caviar. Just reading about that is bound to bring on a chuckle. There is as much creativity in the book itself as in the recipes, beginning with a break from the tradition of organizing by types of food to arranging chapters by season, starting and ending with that luscious Minnesota gettogether, the State Fair. “Life Beneath the

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Snow” is followed by the first garden products of spring—asparagus, rhubarb, and radishes. “Lazy Heat” feeds our summer cravings for fish, farmers markets, and refreshment, then we complete the cycle in autumn with “Back to School Biscuits” and harvests of pumpkin, wild rice, and apples. The book design is fun with plaid tablecloth fabric, dinnerware edged with seasonal symbols, and plateshaped text boxes. Even the Acknowledgements are a good read. Here’s Ms. Johnson’s recipe for Cream-of-Something Soup Substitute (replaces a 10.75-ounce can of commercial condensed soup): 2 Tbsp butter 2 Tbsp very finely chopped white onion 1/4 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pepper 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour 1 C whole milk (or broth; or 1/2 broth, 1/2 milk for a lighter soup), at room temperature. For mushroom soup add 1/3 C finely chopped mushrooms For celery soup add 1/2 C finely chopped celery And a condensed version of the instructions: Melt butter in a large skillet. Add vegetables, cook until tender. Add flour, cook 2 more minutes, whisking. Add 1/2 liquid, whisk until smooth. Add rest of liquid, whisk and simmer until thick. And here are some of her ingredients for a good life, found in the final chapter: Count your blessings [as her mother often reminds her]. Take part in your community’s ice fishing competition or Jell-O cook-off. Make peace in your own small borrowed place in this world. Recycle. Be kind to one another. Buy organic raspberries and Native-harvested wild rice. Get yourself to the Minnesota State Fair. Start the tough conversations. When all else fails, sit down together over a delicious hotdish.

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The Ely Winter Times

Order by phone, mail, or the website, or find it at your favorite stores. $13.95 + $6 shipping to U.S.

PO Box 188, Ely, MN 55731 • 218-365-3375 • www,RavenWordsPress.com A book that glows with family reminiscences, The Range Eternal is centered around a big wood cook stove that warms the toes and hearts of the children. The shiny blue enamel finish with the brand embossed on the oven door provides a lesson in letters that magnetic alphabet pieces can’t quite match. But eventually kerosene lamps give way to light bulbs, and birchbark and split kindling are replaced by electric burners. Then one day the child-turnedadult spots a blue range in an antique store and all those fond memories come rushing back. This is a good book for grandparents who remember and kids who love to listen to their stories, or anyone who still loves to cook or can on a wood stove. Kids love to make up their own stories, and this wordless picture book is the perfect invitation to do just that. Colorful drawings of all the typical canoe trip occurrences provide plenty of opportunities for anticipating and remembering trips to come and trips gone by. Tough portages, blazing campfires, rain-drenched tents, startled wildlife, splashing waterfalls, paddling-forever days, and star-filled night skies are the backgrounds for whatever Boundary Waters story you and your kids can imagine.

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© John Ratzloff

One Water It started raining in a manner that threatens to never stop. The season of the perpetual sock is upon us. The golden hour of this turn around the sun is over, this is autumn’s denouement. Thin gloves have become insufficient to their task. Soon it will be long johns, day and night, from here on out. The recent relatively warm temperatures are sure to be crushed by the weight of the sub-zero; the so-called warmth will dissipate into a higher realm, out of reach. Vapors will contract into

water which will go on to form crystals, and voluminous snow will soon blanket us. It will be months until the melt. Thick, stodgy snow. Globs of it, everywhere. Light, glimmering snow. Flurries of it, everywhere. Sometimes I forget that snow is water, that winter is the season of walking on water, swimming through blizzards. In winter the

© Heidi Pinkerton

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The Ely Winter Times

Š Roy Misonznick

earth seems to turn inside out. We get to Minnesota lake creak and POP! beneath peek at the underworld through a your feet? Like a high-strung string telescopic globe of lake-ice crust. instrument. Like thunder. I imagine Have you ever heard the ice of a tectonic plates rubbing together. Ice

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© Chuck Dayton

expanding and pushing against itself. So. Much. P R E S S U R E. Water never ceases to be, it merely changes forms. Water is always changing states. Vapor to liquid, liquid to ice, back to liquid, to vapor. They say its movement creates a pulse. They say water fills the veins of the planet. Some call it a substance of mystical importance. One water, evaporating off the surface of Miners Lake, elevated by a fall sunrise, creating a fog that will be swallowed by the sky. One water, melting off the surface of Exit Glacier, causing “ten year floods” every other year. One water, sucked out of aquifers, contaminated then salinated.

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You may think that every drop of rain that falls from the sky, or each glass of water drunk, is brand new. No, my dear, it has always been here. There is but one water. Our water is 4.3 billion years old. Before water the earth was a Hadean orb of molten rock. Eventually it cooled, and as it did so rocks and minerals released steam, which expanded in the air: the first rainfall. That inaugural water cycle covered two-thirds of the planet. Water is cohesive. Molecules of water are attracted to each other; they find each other. Groundwater close to the earth’s surface is pulled up and into the atmosphere by plants. Thank you, capillary action. The vapors from

The Ely Winter Times

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exhaling forests become rivers in the sky that flow in patterns and cycles. The rivers in the sky unload their contents as they dance and travel the globe. This is the pulse. They call water the universal solvent. They say that after the first rainfall the ocean became a primordial soup of chemicals in which -- BAM! -- there was a spark. They say the water molecule is the link between the living and nonliving. Amniotic fluid. The same capillary action that causes water to flow up the tree trunks of the

boreal forest moves human blood from organ to organ. Our brains and hearts are over 70% water. Human skin is roughly two-thirds water (sound familiar?). Even our bones are watery: 31%. The very cells in our bodies are full of water. Indeed, all life is bound to this mystical substance. There can be no freedom from it. To be without a pulse is, well‌. Perhaps this truth is what makes Ely and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness a calming and lovely place: so often gloriously saturated. Today it is

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© Wolvenwood Studio

© Cecilia Rolando

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The Ely Winter Times

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Š Ken Hupila

rain. Tomorrow it will be snow. Next time I frolic in said snow I will make angels and revel at tiny ice crystals melting into liquid on my cheek, knowing those molecules have traversed the path of the Nile. I mean, it’s 4.3 billion years old, and in that time water has been perpetually on the move. Where hasn’t each molecule been? The glittering snow upon which I stand has deposited sediment into the Mekong Delta. The snowflakes that stick to my eyelashes once flowed south, babbling along the route etched into Nigeria by the Osun River, named for the Ifa deity Osun, goddess of sweetwater and fertility. I imagine those very same molecules have cavitated inside water columns in the tree trunks of the Amazon rainforest, and floated as celestial rivers, eventually to be dropped upon the Brazilian Pantanal.

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For source information, consider watching the PBS special H20: The Molecule That Made Us, episode one: The Pulse.

Š Ken Hupila

Next time I go winter camping on Wood Lake I will scoop precious Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness snow into a pot to be boiled atop a wood stove in a canvas tent. Rosy cheeks will absorb hot steam as I drink it in: the sacred runoff of Mount Everest, the majestic spout of Old Faithful.

Š Jim Brandenburg

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The Ely Winter Times