Sommelier - Summer 2024

No. 2

2024

The contour of viticulture is developing to a new shape in the light of climate change. In this issue of Sommelier we are looking at across three different continents to discover a snapshot of developments, catalyzers of change and some of the consequences.

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I M P R I N T:

B OA R D O F DA N I S H S O M M E L I E R A S S O C I AT I O N:

Sommelier #2 2024 27.Year Deadline for next issue (#3 2024): 19. August Editor in chief: Nina Højgaard Jensen / Nhj@sommelier.dk Layout og art director: Morten Nybæk Print: Nybæk Grafisk, 26 25 82 50 Issuer: Dansk Sommelier Forening

PRESIDENT: Christian Aarø ca@sommelier.dk VICE PRESIDENT: Tim Vollerslev tv@sommelier.dk TREASURER: Heine Egelund he@sommelier.dk SPONSER MANAGER: Bonnie Reinwald bonnie@buttandbons.com

R E S P O N S I B L E F O R TA S T I N G S: - Copenhagen - Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

P RACT I CA L I N F O

- Fyn - Heine Egelund he@sommelier.dk

SOMMELIER is published four times annually and sent to members and friends of the Danish Sommelier Association. The magazine is run by volunteer work. All profit goes to education, competitions and professional events. As a private person you can support the association with 700 dkk/year by becoming “Friend of Danish Sommelier Association”. Apart from working to improve the Danish sommeliers, you will then receive a diploma.

- Jylland - Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk

CO M P E T I T I O N S & E N T RA N C E E XA M I N AT I O N S: Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen & Jess Kildetoft ctj@sommelier.dk & jk@sommelier.dk

T RAV E L S:

For membership contact: Heine René Egelund he@sommelier.dk - all enquiries in realtion to change of address, contingent and invoices are kindly asked addresses to Heine Egelund as well.

Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen & Kim Thygesen ctj@sommelier.dk & kt@sommelier.dk

Ads and anything in that relation: Bonnie Reinwald Mail: bonnie@ buttandbons.com

Christian Thorsholt Jacobsen ctj@sommelier.dk

We ask kindly that invitations to tastings, travels etc. are directed to Editor in chief Nina Højgaard Jensen på mail Nhj@sommelier.dk

Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk

N E W L E T T E R S & CO M M U N I CAT I O N: F AC E B O O K & W E B M A S T E R:

W R I T E F O R T H E M AG AZ I N E

S E C R E TA RY:

You are welcome to contribute to our magazine. For contributions or questions in that regard, contact Nina Højgaard Jensen by email nhj@ sommelier.dk. Please note that photos should be a minimum of 2MB.

Christian Høj-Jørgensen chj@sommelier.dk

Front page: Speri Family Pergola Vines, Hans Just

IT’S ROSÉ.

BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT…®

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no. 2 - 2024

Legendary Drops ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������8 Wine Talk with Sashi Moorman �����������������������������������������������������������������������������18 Marlborough Turning a Corner ������������������������������������������������������������������������������28 English wine, in Copenhagen - how does it fare? ����������������������������������������������������36 Cold Crises in Okanagan ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������44 Record of DSF General Assembly 08-04-2024 �������������������������������������������������������52 Wine review with ChatGPT �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������58

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Alsace Grand Cru Vidste du at Danmark er verdens største importør af Alsace Grand Cru! Der er 51 AOC Alsace Grand Cru. I 1975 fik den første AOC Grand Cru-status. Det var Schlossberg ved byen Kaysersberg.

Den sidste var Kaefferkopf i Ammerschwihr, der fik sin Grand Cru i 2007. Specielt for denne Grand Cru er, at man må blande flere druesorter.

Indtil for nylig har kun ”de ædle druer”: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurztraminer måttet anvendes til Grand Cru, men der er få undtagelse: I 2005 fik Sylvaner også Grand Cru status på marken Zotzenberg og fra årgang 2022 har man også kunne få Alsace Grand Cru Hengst Pinot Noir og Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr Pinot Noir.

På Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim må der også fremstilles vine fra field blends.

Alsace Grand Cru udgør kun 3,5% af den samlede produktion, så der er tale om en virkelig ekslusiv vin

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Domaine Alphonse Mellot Dybt forankret i Sancerres vinhistorie har Alphonse Mellot gennem århundreder mestret kunsten at skabe enestående vine. Denne passionerede far-søn-duo arbejder med de mest eftertragtede marker i området og formår at fange terroirets essens som ingen andre. En af mange skatter i Alphonse Mellots portefølje er den eftertragtede Sancerre La Moussiere.

Alphonse Mellot omfavner økologi og biodynamik som en hellig forpligtelse og værner om terroiret, der er hjertet i deres exceptionelle vine.

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Legendary Drops B Y: N I N A J E N S E N

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Not many get to taste some of the legendary wines on a regular basis. I consider myself lucky to have, over time, developed a more sincere and deep relationship with some of the greatest iconic wines by being around them and tasting them every week. In that, certain wines grow on you – maybe you lose a little for others – but only seldom do they not deliver.

Château d’Yquem has for the past 3 years or so been a con-

sistent part of my work life – a wine I priorly had tasted maybe only a handful of times, and never a truly matured example, never the same vintage again and again across months and never next to other vintages of it or other truly great sweet wines of the world. Doing that, has made me see the depths of this wine more than I ever could by tasting it on singular occasions, and it has given an incentive to write this little piece about some known and some more

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overlooked or forgotten facts about Sauternes and a Château which is far more than its flashy reputation.

T H E S TA K E S

Although the legend of noble sweet wines coming from Marquis de Lur-Sauces, owner of d’Yquem, ordering, in 1847 that no grapes be picked until his return from Russia, resulting in them shriveling on the vine at the time of his return, isn't the true origin of the noble

sweet wines of the region—it's at least a century too late, if not more—it's undeniable that d’Yquem was indeed the first estate to commit exclusively to noble rot wines from 1847 onwards. This heritage remained in some sense unbroken even with the release of the 1959 Y de d’Yquem, which contained noble rot grapes picked earlier

and fermented dry, essentially tasting like Sauternes but without the sugar. However, in subsequent years, the style of Y has evolved towards an aromatic, Graves-like expression with only faint hints of noble rot. Today, Y represents 40% of the production, predominantly composed of Sauvignon Blanc grapes, with a blending ratio of

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approximately 75% Sauvignon Blanc to 25% Sémillon.

The 1990’ies and 2000s became years of change and evolution at d’Yquem which had been on the hands of the same two families since its beginning. In 1996 LVMH purchased stakes and became part owners of Château d’Yquem acquiring

majority stake in 1999 and taking full ownership in 2009, with Alexandre de Lur Saluces installed as director until 2004, after which Pierre Lurton took the baton. Sandrine Gerbay, the current winemaker, took over in 1998 after the majestic 44 year reign of Guy Latrille.

One of the major tasks Pierre

Lurton then faced was the monumentality of d’Yquem as a wine: Highly revered, but rarely drunk. Then the 100.000 annual bottles produced is suddenly a lot. He chose to release the underrated 1999 vintage at a knock down price to make it accessible, made possible by the stellar 2001 vintage which demanded some of the high-

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est prices for a newly released vintage ever. After entering the LVMH umbrella d’Yquem also came on offer at en Primeur, which they previously never were.

Before then, the d’Yquem in its origin was a farm, passed down from the English crown to the King of France, King Charles

VII, in 1453. The founding fathers of d’Yquem as a place of wine where the Sauvage d’Eyquem Family who leased the vineyards in 1593 from the French King Henri IV and taking over vineyards gradually, the Sauvage d’Eyquem family were sole owners a little over a century later, in 1711. Meanwhile the Sauvage family had decided to dedicate the vineyard acreage to white grapes exclusively in 1642. The union between Sauvage and Lur Saluces in 1785 would define the centuries to come. While they arrived just as the French Revolution threatened, business clearly thrived with records of Thomas Jeffersen ordering thirty dozens of bottles of d’Yquem for himself

and the good Sir George Washington.

THE LAND

Undramatic, perhaps even unremarkable is the vineyard land of Sauternes at a quick glance. But take a closer look and you discover an almost fairy-tale like mist covering green areas, floating in between majestic and romantic Chateaux – suddenly it all feels a little magical and fills you with a sense of uniqueness and excitement.

The 16th Century Château of d’Yquem only adds to the atmosphere with thick stone walls and a 360-degree view down on the other Châteaux below.

The total area of Sauternes AOP 12

covers just below 2000ha – and has been in decline the past 20 years seeing production drop of 24% and a decrease of the land prices with a drop of 15% in land price between 2016-2017, standing at prices comparable to AOP Graves at around 30.000 Euro.

At the same time, the estates are picking at higher sugar levels.

Climate is a factor here, but so is picking choices – nowadays only the pourri rôti grapes later in the phase than the custom was beforehand was with picking a lot of pourri plein, leading to much higher sugar levels than even the great vintages of the past. As Sandrine Gerbay of d’Yquem says: “Ninety percent

of the quality in Sauternes is how the grapes are picked If the grapes aren’t right in the field, it doesn’t matter what we do in the cellar”. Yeast capable of working at higher sugars and alcohol have, largely thanks to the late Denis Dubourdieu, been popularized, giving the estates more flexibility to pick at riper levels and still be able to conduct a smooth fermentation.

Pourri plein grapes are just when the botrytis starts to be visible with grape being speckled in color and the skin texture starting to thin. Here there are some detectable noble rot aromatics in the wine, but arther subdued, and the sweetness is far less concentrated.

Pourri rôti grapes are later in the phase of botrytis where the grapes appear in a brown color, completely shrivelled in size and with furry covering resembling dried, crystallized fruit.

Here the aromatics are powerful, maybe even an initial fermentation has started within the grape and the sweetness as well as concentration is powerful. The aromatic complexity is derived from the grapes attempt to protect itself against the botrytis attack, causing new biochemicals to be formed leading to hundreds of aromas.

D’Yquem owns 113ha of land, divided into 40 different parcels, of which about 100ha are in continuous production and

the entirety farmed biodynamically since 2020 after a long transition – the remainder is in replanting making the average age of the vines about 30 years old. Varietals are divided with 80% planted to Sémillon and 20% to Sauvignon Blanc.

The vineyards lay as the king of the land with the highest points equivalent to the peak of Sauternes with altitudes of 75 meters and the lowest point at 40 meters, making the slopes steep

by Bordeaux standards, maximizing the drying effect from the winds. The highest point is northern facing the Garonne River, and in total the vineyards are distributed over 3 undulating slopes. Aided by the extremely important drainage systems (established in the vineyards in the middle of the 19th century by Romain Bertrand de Lur Saluces), the wind puts a stop to the grey rot and keeps the grapes healthy until botrytis form.

While the majority of soils in Sauternes are peyrosol gravel, d’Yquem has a heavy layer of planosol clay underpinning the gravel and at times even mixing in with the topsoil. The vine roots reach up to 10 meters down until finally hitting the limestone bedrock. It is said, that the soil at d’Yquem in reality is so varied that 4 distinct wines could be made from the vineyards. Now, the soils have an only recently described (and surprising) effect on botrytis: Roger Pezet has designated how the most crucial point for botrytis is at flowering! After the flowers drop off, two small openings remain in the green grape to which the flower stems were attached. These are large enough to allow botrytis spores 13

to enter, and they then remain dormant until the grapes begin to mature. Thus, at flowering about 30% of the grapes can become colonized by botrytis spores. Their action is inhibited by the metabolism of the grape, which has its own anti-botrytis mechanism, but once fully mature, the spores awaken and start consuming the sugars within the grapes. It does so from the inside, contrary to the common belief that it is only from the outside. The best acidity balance is achieved by botrytis affecting the grape as soon after full maturity as possible – the longer the delay of botrytis, the lower the acidity. Now in clay soil the spores of botrytis has a change to overwinter giving them a better chance to enter at the crucial time in the end of the flowering – meaning that a better formation of botrytis can be found in places where there is a layer of clay not too far from the surface – as it so happens this, along with the wind exposure is exactly what sets d’Yquem apart! That and the draconian harvest approach.

THE MAKING

Upon harvest as many as 200 harvesters participate over the course of up to two months, and these are specialists who return year after year – some have even picked for d’Yquem in generations providing them with an integrity rarely found.

The yield is typically 8-10hl/ ha harvested in 10 tries, corresponding to about a glass of wine per vine. Before the turn of the 19th century, it was not uncommon to find d’Yquem in several editions – one release from each tries.

Lot selection is ruthless – up to 70% of the grapes don’t make the cut in difficult years and even in great years much ends up discarded. Upon arrival to the press, each plot and varietal are pressed individually in 3 press rounds, the first two on a pneumatic press followed by pressing in vertical press, each of the press rounds being richer in sugar than the previous.

After an assessment of each press, the lot is either passed for fermentation or rejected all together. It is vintage dependent whether they are then blended or kept separate. The fermen-

tation is delayed by chilling of the must and addition of SO2.

During the first two weeks bâttonage is performed on the rich lots to minimize heaviness and fat, rich textures. The fermentation takes place in new oak barrique and comes to a natural halt, usually between 120-140g or sugar per liter. The fermentation runs slowly, sometimes lasting a full six weeks. The small size of the barrel prevents temperature to rise too high, and wil rarely exceed 20 degrees C. Following the fermentation, it is time for the élevage in new oak. Here d’Yquem has

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in the past 20 years reduced the barrel time from 42 months to 36 to about 30 months. This limits the amount of rackings and ultimately lowers the added SO2 amount: While the pitfall in a slow sweet wine fermentation is ending up with too much volatile acidity, during élevage the question is of sulphur dioxide, which is necessary to prevent reactivation of dormant yeasts and spoilage. Denis Dubourdieu, who also consulted for d’Yquem, was known for saying: “The process of élevage is one of protecting and refining. But you don’t need to pro-

tect Sauternes grapes; a grape that has been attacked by botrytis has already seen everything.

The art of making white wine is that of constructing aromas, and with reds you construct color and tannin. To use barriques for dry wines is an art; to use them for sweet wines is easy”. Even if the élevage can be considered easy in comparison, to craft sauternes like d’Yquem is anything but. The witness is in the glass. A sweet wine which is about all the other elements than the sweetness itself. It is about the layers; the sweet, spiced sensation, the gin-

ger, honey and saffron, the decaying yellow flowers, the candied apricot, white peach tea, tropical layers, the earthy qualities, the fresh chantarelles, the yellow tomato chutney, the bergamot, the bitter sweet orange zest, the brown sugar and light caramel, a whiff of almond, raw vanilla bean, the nutmeg and cumin. It is about people declaring “I don’t like sweet wine”, then tasting d’Yquem and being completely seduced.

About a witness of time – the time it took to craft, the time it takes to mature while drinking well every day until then. About

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effortless power and intensity in disguise of elegance. Something featherlike, that for a moment fills the palette only to disappear leaving a lingering sensation for minutes on palette and decades in the memory.

To quote Jane Anson: “I can honestly say that of all the First Growths – even if the sole Premier Cru Supérieur – it is perhaps the only one that has never once disappointed on opening a bottle”

Domaine Maldant-Pauvelot har base lige nord for Beaune, i Chorey-Les-Beaune. Det familieejede hus kom til verden I 1893, hvor Jean Pauvelot grundlagde vinhuset. Maldant-Pauvelots filosofier var de samme dengang, som nu.

Nemlig at lave finesserig vin der afspejler Bourgognes terroir, druen, naturen og husets stil.

Med marker i både premier cru og grand cru områder, er Maldant-Pauvelot en producent med vine af høj kvalitet.

De ejer flere Lieu-Diet, afgrænsede dele af marker med specifikke navne, hvilket giver dig muligheden for at tilbyde enkeltmarks Bourgogne til overraskende lave priser. Her er nemlig ikke en stor marketingmaskine eller behov for anmelder-hype. Her er det bare vin, der er i fokus - rigtig god vin.

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86 41 03 88 bestselection@bestselection.dk

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Wine talk with S Domaine de La B Y: N I N A J E N S E N S O U R C E S: S A S H I M O O R M A N, V I N E YA R D S ( D O M A I N E D E L A C OT E.C O M ) , V I N E YA R D – S A N D H I ( S A N D H I W I N E S.C O M )

“It started as a reaction to wines being an expression of style rather than terroir” So Sashi describes how his and Rajat Parr’s decision to begin winemaking in Sta. Rita Hills started.

Sashi is a fascinating character – warm and composed at the same time. And he is above all a great, intuitive technician who travels the world regularly in order to speed up his experience level, taking the learnings from especially Burgundy back home with him. On his path he shares fascinating insights with those who want to listen.

N O S TA L I C V S. N OV E LTY

Sashi has followed Burgundy from when the struggle was to ripen the grapes fully into present day where we find Burgundies reaching alcohol levels of 15% in hot years. He makes an interesting observation about the style of his approach which takes great inspiration in old school Burgundy: “I like to think of it as Nostalgia vs. Novelty. Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte feel nostalgic as a witness of a style and time gone in Eu-

rope. That builds of course a clientele longing to relive this feeling, but the young wine drinkers are different; they don’t have these memories to reconnect with”. As young wine drinkers do not have this reference point, they will have to fall in love with this more restrained, introverted and yet highly intriguing style as it is. Less obvious wines we could maybe call them, which are as much about texture and structure of acidity as fruit. I wonder if it is that much different from learning to appreciate Burgundy back in the day? It is after all a recent phenomenon that Burgundy is so sought after. A big difference though is Sashi that walking a lonelier path without many other producers in the area within same genre and, perhaps more importantly, without the prestige of classifications and a long history, which brings direct and indirect value to the historic regions of Europe.

Upon tasting the most recent – and best yet I might add – vintage of Sandhi, the talk about

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the Burgundy of lost time is on the table, Sashi brings up chaptalization: “No one in Burgundy chaptalizes anymore. Everything is so ripe, so it wouldn’t make sense”, which he then follows up with an explanation about exactly why for him it is a loss: He has learned how, by cultivating and picking grapes so it makes sense to do a small amount of chaptalization in terms of the alcohol, you have a cornerstone part of the old school Burgundy: “If you add sugar in the very end of the fermentation, the yeast has to work extremely hard to process the sugar, which results in a silkier texture and rounds off the austerity. It can also encourage a suppression of fruit by creating an adequate amount of reduction. So yeah – I definitely prefer to do a small amount of chaptalization rather than picking at higher sugars” – Et voilá – here you have a base ingredient in the former ways of the most haunting Chardonnays exemplified by the likes of cult Coche-Dury and Arnaud Ente.

Sashi Moorman: Côte & Sandhi

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S P RAY I N G A N D R E D U CT I O N The topic of reduction in Chardonnay does however not lie within chaptalization alone – it is a small part of it. Reduction in one of the most difficult balancing acts a winemaker faces if pursued: You simply risk spoiling everything if hydrogen sulfide aromas gets to dominate.

Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is a mol-

ecule that gets our alert systems in overdrive, and our olfactory can pick up on it in parts per million making us even more sensitive towards it than TCA. Sashi illuminates how it already begins in the vineyard practices: “Sulphur on the grapes leads to reduction in wine” While the statement is obvious, to my mind, there is something slight-

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ly provocative about the blandness of the it – I guess it somehow evokes a great reminder of everything being sprayed in the vineyard ultimately becomes a part of the wine – directly or indirectly: It is a sort of de-romanticizing of the organic circle. He continues: “Once there is no more nitrogen in the grape juice, the yeast will start to di-

gest Sulphur as a carbohydrate instead, which creates a specific set of reduction aromas”. Due to that, Sashi likes to aim for musts with a low amount of nitrogen, a witness of his technical mastery and belief in the sturdy native yeasts. Low nitrogen can potentially be one of the dangers to fermentation if there is not enough YAN (Yeast Assimi-

lable Nitrogen), a fermentation might run slowly and produce non-desirable aromatics. Getting the balance exactly right between nitrogen and sulphur is hard in producing the style of Chardonnay represented in Sandhi.

G RA P E S O U RC E

Sandhi has until recently been

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based on negociant grapes, while Domaine de La Côte is domaine grapes. However a few years back, Sanshi & Rajat planted 13ha of Chardonnay just below Domaine de la Côte.

These north-facing vineyards on an ancient seabed mere miles from the present-day ocean captured Rajat’s attention many years ago. “I had tasted a lot

of wine from the area and my favorite wines were from Santa Rosa Road, so we decided to focus Sandhi only on Santa Rosa Road. That’s the reason I’m fascinated with it. I think it defines the Santa Rita Hills”. To Sashi “Terroir the adaptation of a plant to its terroir”, and one of the decisive terroir factors of Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte is the proximity to the ocean leading to a lot of millerandage – something he is excited about! He follows a different logic to dusty, old schoolbooks, explaining how he loves millerandage on especially Pinot Noir, and describes it as crucial to the quality of Domaine de la Côte. As often before he turns to the old treasure-trove

of wisdom found in Burgundy to support his argument: “It is one of the great factors in the best red wines of Burgundy coming from Côtes de Nuits. Yes, soils are different, but what many forget is, that Côtes de Nuits has a lot more millerandage than Côtes de Beaune.

It increases the solids-juice ratio including the number of seeds”.

In fact, the average cluster size at Domaine de la Côte is a mere 50 grams because of the low yields they practice, the dry climate and the millerandage – and on Bloom’s Field vineyard clusters are sometimes not even that! The Bloom’s Field wine is literally 50% juice, 50% skins and stems. Bloom’s field has

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lighter soil texture compared to the heavy clay of Memorious vineyard. The lightness in soil-texture gives less vigorous vines resulting in smaller clusters with smaller berries, leading to a floral and ethereal quality. Perched above the Santa Ynez River, Memorious, planted in 2007, is immediately downslope from Bloom’s Field.

The vineyard bends gently to the southwest, opening its face to the Pacific Ocean and its winds. It rests upon a bedrock of Monterey Shale covered by alluvial deposits; its soils are the heaviest of the Domaine— deep brown in color, composed primarily of clay and the wine is rounder and fleshier in fruit and texture.

S E A M L E S S OA K

Tannin-structure and intensity without getting dark wines have been focal to the style at Domaine de la Côte. Today it is worked 100% whole bunch and from 2022 Sashi has changed vinification practices to completely excluding which has opened the possibility of more pipeage. Leaving out the rough tannins that come with the press wine, there is room to be more aggressive in the extraction of the tannins from the skins, which are much finer and comes with the bonus of an array of aromatic precursors also being obtained. Sashi describes it as a huge step up in quality and a true realization of the quality of the berries. The quality of the

berries and the selected grape must ultimately decide how well the wine will take to oak.

At Domaine de la Côte they aim to increase the amount of new oak, which today is 70%. While it might be against the ‘buzz’ of no-new-oak, amphora, concrete vats etc. Sashi argues that the very best Pinot wines can have 100% new oak seamlessly integrated. It is all about grape material. He gives examples of DRC, Armand Rousseau and Dujac and plenty more used to be 100% new oak, but also understands the dilemma producers of the premium class face in sacrificing press wine to do so.

For Domaine de La Côte the seamlessness is certainly is true.

The wines are ethereal, sensual,

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full of depth and power yet with an airy quality and of course the signature seaweed-like umami quality.

I have been following the wines of Sashi and Rajat since the first release, and perhaps represent this “young generation” that needs to form a bond directly with them. However, that is greatly helped along by the sheer quality of the wiens and by characters such as Sashi who it is a true delight to cross paths with!

The wines of Domaine de la Côte, Sandhi, Evening Land and Piedrasassi are imported to Denmark by Thomas Dam Vin.

Fem ting du bør vide om bæredygtighed i californisk vin!

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rd

4. GÅ FULDT IND FOR BIODIVERSITET

Med græssende dyr, som sørger for ukrudtsbekæmpelse, og rovfugle, som bekæmper skadedyr, introducerer de californiske vinbønder både store og små skabninger til at hjælpe i vingården. Når det kommer til flora, bruger de fleste bæredygtige vingårde dækafgrøder til at opbygge sundere jord, der låser CO2 og tiltrækker gavnlige insekter.

5. KÆLDERHEMMELIGHEDER

Bæredygtig praksis omfatter også vineriet, hvor processer er bygget op omkring energieffektivitet helt fra bunden. Mange californiske vinproducenter anvender solenergi og andre former for vedvarende energi, vandbesparelse og nye emballager for at reducere deres miljømæssige aftryk

e d n e r ens fø

yg d e r bæ

t

r n i v ige

e

. . . n gio

Lyst til at vide mere? Vores Capstone California online-certificering tilbyder et væld af informationer om alt 24 information: https://vinakademiet.dk/capstone/ #CaliforniaWines, for både eksperter og entusiaster. Mere

Turn your passion for

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into a career

UPCOMING COURSES Aarhus: August 12th 2024 (Mondays) Copenhagen: August 20th 2024 (Tuesdays) Copenhagen: January 20th 2025 (Mondays)

Since 2016, Dansk Sommelier Uddannelse has trained more than 200 sommeliers in Aarhus and Copenhagen. Our sommelier course spans over a ten-month period, with 36 engaging classes – making it the most comprehensive of its kind in Denmark.

COST DKK 54.500 (excl. VAT) DKK 68.125 (incl. VAT)

Our instructors, consisting of industry experts and accomplished sommeliers from renowned restaurants, bring their rich expertise and specialized knowledge to the classroom.

Please note, the course is taught in Danish only.

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From the art of decanting and wine service to glass selection, guest psychology, upselling techniques, and even wine list curation - our course equips you with a skill set that will contribute to creating a satisfying dining experience for guests and enhancing the overall wine service.

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Danmarks eneste kvalitetsvin er den mousserende vin DONS (BOB) Danmarks første Beskyttede Oprindelses Betegnelse: DONS (BOB) fra vinområde Dons - EU’s nordligste appellation. BOB svarer til AOC eller DOC. Skærsøgaard’s mousserende vin DONS har været kendt gennem 20 år og har opnået mere end 100 præmieringer.

Den nærproducerede vin forespørges af kunder til det Nordiske Køkken – senest ved 10 Nordiske Michelin restauranters festmiddag, Stars du Nord, i Stockholm.

Rekvirer engrosliste for direkte levering på salg@dansk-vin.dk Giv kunderne mulighed for at opleve den danske certificerede kvalitetsvin.

- første autoriserede vingård i Danmark 26

www.dansk-vin.dk

Abbaye de Lérins er et historisk kloster beliggende på Île SaintHonorat, en lille ø i Cannes-bugten, ud for den franske riviera.

Klosteret blev grundlagt i det 5. århundrede af Saint Honoratus og har gennem årene spillet en betydelig rolle i religiøst og kulturelt liv.

En bemærkelsesværdig del af Abbaye de Lérins er dets tradition for at producere vine og likører. Munkene har siden slutningen af 1800-tallet produceret både likører og vine, og helt i Cistercienser munkeordenens ånd benyttes udelukkende håndarbejde. Munkene fortsætter med at følge Saint Benedicts regel, der lægger vægt på et liv med bøn, arbejde og fællesskab.

Blandt de berømte likører, produceret af Abbaye de Lérins, er Liqueur Lérina Verte, Liqueur Lérina Jaune og Liqueur Mandarine. Lérina Verte og Lérina Jaune er lavet af en maceration af 44 forskellige planter og urter i alkohol.

De udviser unikke og karakteristiske træk med en rig og kompleks smagsprofil.

Liqueur Lérina Verte, 50%, 50 cl.

Liqueur Lérina Jaune, 43%, 50 cl.

Liqueur Mandarine, 42%, 50 cl.

Besidder intense aromaer af blomster, anis, mynte, timian og verbena. Intens og velafbalanceret smag. Blød og kompleks.

Besidder intense og friske aromaer af vilde blomster, bark, citrusfrugter og kandiserede citroner. Rund og glat mundfornemmelse.

Besidder intense aromaer af mandarin, appelsinskal og kandiserede citrusfrugter.

Cremet konsistens, afbalanceret og frugtig.

Priorparken 845 • 2605 Brøndby • Tlf. 70231211 27 • info@jmk.dk • ordre@jmk.dk • www.jmk.dk

Marlborough: Turning a Corner B Y: N I N A J E N S E N

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Turning 50 years last year, Marlborough is facing the twoedged sword its rapid commercial Sauvignon Blanc success; by being world renowned for one very specific, single varietal wine style, the safety of its future is jeopardized by the lack of diversity in the plant material. As the vineyards come to an age where large parts of the vineyards with be replanted soon, the vignerons and scientists pose the question of how genetic diversity can be introduced. The specific, aromatic style of Sauvignon Blanc put New Zealand on the map hence, that was what the vineyards and the vinification were designed to achieve: Looking at the vineyards it effectively means, that the far majority of the Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough is the single clone of UCD1. While there is no suggestion that it poses an issue currently, there are strong theoretic indicators that it will in

the near future. The challenge ahead has given rise to a most interesting research program initiated at Bragato institute two years ago and stands as a possibly significant factor to ensure a successful future for the region.

7 Y EAR S F OR TH E F U TU R E

In Marlborough, the dominance of Sauvignon Blanc vines as a single genetic individual stems from the method of grape propagation, fostering efficient management but also vulnerability to potential threats. The lack of genetic diversity poses risks; any new pest, disease, or environmental change could affect the entire Sauvignon Blanc population.

Recognizing the opportunity to enhance resilience and adaptability, the Bragato Research Institute, alongside partners, has initiated a comprehensive 7-year research program. The goal is ambitious: to create

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12,000 new variants of Sauvignon Blanc, leveraging modern techniques to select traits vital for addressing evolving challenges and market demands.

Rooted in the knowledge derived from virtually any other crop that has been optimized through breeding programs, the scientific hope of the research is to draw on the benefits of crop selection and optimization that the vine industry has been missing out on. Plants have a natural ability to become more genetically diverse in response to environmental stress events. This knowledge will be used to produce a population of vines with unique traits, effectively accelerating the natural evolution of the vine that has been halted by modern viticulture. Since this doesn’t involve crossings with other vines, the plants are still Sauvignon Blanc, and the new variants are fully formed at the first generation.

W H AT I S T E? S O U RC E: J A M I E G O O D E Help is at hand in the form of a genetic feature that’s both hard to explain, but also has played an important role in the evolution of plants. This feature? Transposable elements (TEs), also known as jumping genes. These were first discovered in maize in 1950 by a researcher called Barbara McClintock: it turns out maize has a particularly TE-rich genome, one that has been described as islands of genes surround by a sea of nested TEs. She referred to these TEs as ‘controlling elements’ because of the way they can affect gene expression. McClintock showed that some of the genes producing pigmentation in maize seemed to be hopping round the genome: they weren’t consistently located on the same chromosome. Her research was initially treated with scepticism: the idea of jumping genes seemed like science fiction. But this ground-breaking work was rewarded with the Nobel Prize in 1983.

Harnessing nature's mechanism of genetic variation, the project aims to induce genetic diversity in vines through controlled stress events. By activating transposable elements (TEs - natural agents of genetic evolution), the project accelerates the development of novel traits without altering the essence of Sauvignon Blanc.

THE HOPE

The project's outcome promises not only improved vineyard resilience but also a valuable genetic resource for future challenges, including climate change and emerging pests. The screening process, facilitated by advanced DNA sequencing, identifies promising clones for field trials, ensuring the viability and stability of genetic changes.

Furthermore, the research addresses the potential threats facing Marlborough's wine region, acknowledging the risks of overreliance on a single grape variety. By identifying stress-responsive genetic elements, the project aims to equip vineyards with clones better suited to changing conditions, safeguarding the future of New Zealand's wine industry.

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The accelerated clonal selection process involves somatic embryogenesis, inducing genetic variation in cultured vine tissues through stress treatments. High-throughput DNA sequencing facilitates rapid screening for desirable traits, expediting the selection of superior clones for field trials.

While the project focuses on creating new clones, it also explores existing vineyards for hidden genetic diversity.

By screening established vine material, the research aims to uncover overlooked variants, potentially enriching Marlborough's vineyards with unique, locally developed Sauvignon

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Blanc clones. Quoting the goals defined by the website of the research project itself: “By the end of the 7-year project, the aim is to have selected unique vines demonstrating improved traits, which can be grown in bulk by nurseries in time for future Sauvignon Blanc replanting. Critically, these will all still

be NZ Sauvignon Blanc vines – just new, improved variants of our current material. The population will also form a valuable pool of genetic diversity for the future, acting as a resource for tackling future risks from climate, pests, disease and changing markets”

As Marlborough's vineyards approach replanting age, the prospect of extensive plantings of local Sauvignon Blanc clones offers hope for resilience in the face of future climatic challenges. This forward-thinking approach will hopefullyl ensure the continued success of New

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Zealand's iconic wine industry, safeguarding its global reputation for quality and innovation.

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CHAMPAGNE JACQUES SELOSSE GUILLAUME SELOSSE DE SOUSA LAUNOIS PHILIPPE LANCELOT MARGUET ` FLEURY CHANOINE FRERES RUINART ´ KRUG DOM PERIGNON CLICQUOT PONSARDIN EGON MÜLLER SCHARZHOF MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS SOFIA THANISCH SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG PETER JAKOB KÜHN EYMANN KAI SCHÄTZEL NICOLAS JOLY LEROY DOMAINE LEROY DOMAINE D’AUVENAY GUILLAUME VRIGNAUD DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY DOMAINE J.C. RATEAU DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES LAURENT ROUMIER DOMAINE DU COUVENT DOMAINE DES VAROILLES ´ DOMAINE DU TRAGINER MAS PAILLET NENU CHATEAU CRU PEYRAGUEY CHATEAU GRILLON CHATEAU MOULIN SANT VINCENT GRAND FERRAND CHATEAU TOURNEFEUILLE CHATEAU ROCHEYRON DOMINIO DE PINGUS PETER SISSECK QUINTA SARDONIA GALIA TERRAS GAUDA CASA LOS FRAILES See more producers and tastings on www.esprit-du-vin.com L’Esprit du Vin · Snaregade 6 · Copenhagen · T +45 70 20 10 60 · email@esprit-du-vin.com 35

English wine, in Copenhagen – how does it fare?

B Y: K E T I L S A U E R

Over the years, I have tried many different sparkling wines, different soils, different blends, different terroirs, vintages, non-vintage etc. and have a decent knowledge of what I like and what I avoid. Personally, I prefer a fresh style of high acidity, fruit forward, no bitterness, lasting, creamy mousse. As for the taste and aroma: a hint of lactic nuances with green apples, conference pear, quince, lemon zest, cream fraiche, sourdough, baked white bread, honeysuckle and a splash of white tea and jasmine.

I've over 2 days in February the 19th and 20th had the pleasure to expand my knowledge of wine.

First, a great lunch restaurant Salt with Gusborne and Korsholm Vin at. Day 2 a wine tasting hosted by Wines of Great Britain, at the British Embassy.

I found both events interesting.

For common and for different reasons.

DAY 1 – T H E L U N C H

The lunch with Gusbourne was to showcase their new prestige cuvee ”51 Degrees North” along with a ”side by side” Kent and Sussex sparkling sets, of Blanc de blancs and Blanc de noirs.

This was my first time tasting Gusbourne – I didn't know what to expect.

Reading about something and trying it yourself is of course 2 different things. First off we tried the 2 Blanc de blancs against each other and after that, the ”Blanc de Noir” set and finally the ”Fifty One Degrees North”.

Why was it interesting to compare Kent and Sussex? Bear in mind that these 2 different areas are both based on the Paris basin, a specific soil type that

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you also find in Champagne, but here at a more northern latitude that gives a colder average temperature, similar to the previously colder climate of Champagne. The vineyards are based at approximately 50 meters difference in altitude, which means that there is a difference of 0.5 degree celsius, this might not sound like much but when it is cold all year long half a degree matters.

The wines were the 2017 vintage, bottled in May 2018 and are aged at least 47 months on the lees before degorgement.

There was a distinct difference between the wines from Kent and Sussex. It showed both for the Blanc de blancs and the Blanc de noirs.

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Both ”Selhurst Park Vineyard”(Sussex) and ”Commanders vineyard”(Kent) were with a clear style of high quality ”blanc de blancs”: A taste and aroma of green apples, creamfraiche, warm hay, lemon zest, grape fruit, flint and salt minerality. The acidity was showing more clearly with the wine from Sussex (Selhurst Park Vineyard) but also still evident in the wine from Kent (Commanders vineyard). The bubbles were long lasting and pleasing on the tongue. The fruit was of higher intensity with the wine from Kent, an opulent in body and length and a more ripe fruit character.

The Blanc de noirs: Boot Hill Vineyard, Kent and Down Field Vineyard, West Sussex, had the same showcase of high quality, a clear-cut acidity from Sussex with marked intensity and body from Kent. The taste was though, as expected, different.

Both the Pinot Noirs showed: red fruits, rose petals and pastry

alongside the citrus peel, lactic and fresh minerality.

For wines of a similar soil, not that far from each other I could clearly taste the terroir difference. Power and structure from Kent and elegant freshness from Sussex.

The ”Fifty One Degrees North” is the new prestige cuvee from Gusbourne where you will find a heavy hitter with power, structure, depth and distinct Sur Lie ageing, the vintage is 2014, the blend is Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The aromas and taste are of mature apples, baked bread, yeast, mature lemon, jasmin, earl-grey tea, quince, mature pear, a hint of saffron, flint and salty minerality. The mousse is effervescent and charming. The acidity cuts through refreshingly and a lingering pleasant aftertaste. I found this wine to have many of the same qualities as the prestige wines of Champagne with many quality features such as its intensity,

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complexity, depth and lasting aftertaste.

In the last 20 years, the English wine production has increased at an astonishing speed. From 2004 to 2024 the hectares of vineyards has increased more than 400% from 722 Ha to more than 3000ha under vine today and almost triple the amount of vineyards. The yields are below 30 hl/ha and there is a focus on the sparkling wines with 68% of the production being sparkling in 2022. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Bacchus are the main planted varieties and account for more than 70% of the GB planted area.

DAY 2 – T H E TA S T I N G

This was a day of firsts for me, never before had I attended a tasting of exclusively British wines.

The tasting was hosted at the English embassy in a 2 room lobby with producers lined up, different wines to taste – though a clear focus on the sparkling wines of traditional method or ”Methode Britannique” (wonder where this name came from?) as some British producers call it.

Tasting these 2 again, I felt the same acidity that many of the producers also talked about ‘the english acidity’. To be truthful it feels a little like biting into a lemon – A cleansing crispiness loads of lemon fruit, lemon orchard, lemon zest with a limestone flinty minerality.

As I mentioned to begin – I know what I like when drinking sparkling wines.

Still, sparkling, red, white, rose. The wines showed things in common, for me the most prominent denominator was: Acidity! As the wines I tasted showed, a feeling of cleansing the palate with refreshing acidity and limestone minerality.

Some other features that I noticed were low pH levels, low abv., cool climate style, small productions, lightness, crispiness - a feeling of togetherness from the producers, something I've also seen in areas of other new emerging wine regions like New Zealand and Canada.

Everyone knows everyone and there is a network of sharing information in order for the region as a whole to evolve and alongside the quality will surge.

Tasting a bottle of wine, the place, the temperature, how you are feeling, the glass, etc. everything will affect the experience. Therefore, I asked if it was possible to bring a bottle or 2 with me and retaste them. Angelina Howe, from Wines of Great Britain, helped me out with 2 samples. A bottle of: Coates & Seely, Blanc de blancs, NV and Chapel Down, Rose, NV, Sparkling.

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What I tasted these 2 days was the freshness, intensity, fruit, balanced acidity, flavours and aromas that I find in the category of high-quality sparkling wines. I think in the future we will see many more of these wines and a continued quality surge in English wines.

En hyldest til Antinoris historiske vin Villa Antinori Rosso EN GENFORTOLKNING AF DEN TOSCANSKE KLASSIKER. EN VIN I TOPKLASSE MED SIN HELT EGEN UMISKENDELIGE STIL.

2020 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA VILLA ANTINORI, DOCG Sangiovese /Cabernet Sauvignon Fadlagret 12-15 mdr.

Lyst/mørkt kød /fjerkræ Riedel Cabernet/Merlot

93 point - Wine Spectator

EN BLØD OG LEVENDE VIN, FULD AF SMAG, MED EN FRUGTIG OG KRYDRET KARAKTER. UTROLIG DELIKAT, DEDIKERET OG MEGET ELEGANT MED MASSER AF CHARME OG STRUKTUR.

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TERROIR TRAILBLAZER CHARTING NIAGARA WITH THOMAS BACHELDER

Bourgogne is sacred ground to any wine lover.

Not just because of the quality of its wines, but because of the history, passion and poetry in those hallowed hills. Its vineyards are scrutinized like no other in the world: studied, mapped out and classified with a mindboggling level of detail that’s taken centuries, starting with the Cistercian monks and still ongoing.

To apply that same level of cadastral care to a relatively new wine region, buzzing, no doubt, but comparatively uncharted, is not exactly a job for one man. But that’s not going to stop Thomas Bachelder. He’s a terroirist.

In the lush landscapes of Niagara, closely nestled by the vast, cold expanse of Lake Ontario, Bachelder has embarked on a monumental quest. His mission? To map and analyze the terroirs of Niagara with a rigor that rivals Bourgogne. The Niagara vineyards, with their varying proximity to Lake Ontario, diverse river systems, and the contrasting elevations of the Niagara Escarpment, present an especially compelling canvas for such a detailed exploration of terroir. A tasting with Bachelder, therefore,

has the wines arranged not from light to powerful, as one might expect, but from east to west, from Niagara-on-the-Lake, over the Twenty Mile Bench and culminating in Grimsby, along the way showcasing the subtle shifts in terroir that impact each wine’s character.

Despite not owning the vineyards, Bachelder works closely with a myriad of plots, some of which harbor the region’s first Vitis vinifera plantings. His intimate knowledge of each plot’s history and characteristics is evident in his meticulous care and selection.

Lake Ontario plays a pivotal role in defining the local wine landscape. Its massive water body tempers the climate, delaying flowering in spring due to the cold reserves, which helps protect against frost damage. In autumn, the retained heat from summer extends the growing season. Some vineyards are so close to the lake that, as Bachelder says, you have to be careful when turning the tractor!

in the 1980s to achieve full maturity, but Bachelder has always embraced the cool climate of Niagara and is fully dedicated to varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Gamay, once again paying homage to his muse – Bourgogne.

His winemaking is minimalist, using only the wild yeasts present on the grapes and aging mostly in older barrels, ensures that the wines distinctly express the terroir that he works so hard to put front and center.

Through his understanding of Niagara’s complex terroir and his homage to the traditions of Bourgogne, Thomas Bachelder not only crafts wines that speak of their place but also chronicles a region’s climatic and geological narrative through each bottle. As climate patterns shift and the wine industry evolves, Bachelder’s work serves as a vital link between the past and the potential future.

With the climate changing, longer, warmer summers now allow grapes that would have been a gamble

Juul’s Engros er sponsor af Dansk Sommelier Forening.

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Repræsentant fra Juuls Engros: Anders Regout // +45 25 94 06 14 // Andersr@juulsengros.dk

JUUL S E NGROS

K Ø BE N H A V N ETAB. 1926

EN SMAG AF FAMILIENS ARV OG ALICANTES SKØNHED

Vi vil gerne præsentere dig for et af vores nyeste “familiemedlemmer”: Casa Balaguer fra Alicante, der producerer vine der er udpræget af minimalt intervention.

Med to landbrugsejendomme, der er placeret 25 km fra hinanden og i meget forskellige mikroklimaer, er Casa Balaguer eksperter i at udvælge de fineste vinmarker til at producere naturvine af højeste kvalitet.

Casa Balaguer er drevet af Marta Ribera og Andrés Carull, som begge har en stor kærlighed til flora og fauna.

Casa Balaguer er et vidunderligt eksempel på, hvor forskelligartet naturen kan være på et lille område!

Drevet af deres lidenskabelige overbevisning og livsstil, besluttede de at tage en udfordring op: at lave økologiske vine samt naturvine, der ikke ligner nogen andre.

Det er derfor, Casa Balaguer er her: For at bevise, at økologisk- og naturvin af høj kvalitet kan være let tilgængelig for alle, der søger den.

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DOMAINE DE BELLENE

Bourgogne’s bæredygtige elegantier - velegnet til at køre på glas.

CHARLOTTENLUND STATIONSPLADS 7 • 2920 CHARLOTTENLUND • 62 66 11 20 • HORECA@THEIS-VINE.DK • WWW.THEIS-VINE.DK

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Cold crises i

B Y: N I N A 44

in Okanagan

JENSEN 45

Wine production comes at the mercy of nature, and again this year, unfortunately for British Columbia, Mother Nature was not showing herself from a merciful side.

For the second consecutive year, BC's wine regions have suffered from a damaging cold snap. The 2023 vintage saw a significant decline of 58%, and predictions for 2024 suggest an even greater reduction, estimating a 97-99% decrease in harvest across the province. This forecast is based on a survey similar to the previous year's, which accurately predicted a 56% decrease through bud dissections and extrapolation across grape varieties and regions.

BC encompasses several wine regions, with the Okanagan being the most prominent, followed by the Similkameen and Vancouver Island. However, this year, only Vancouver Island and the Fraser Valley are expected to yield grapes.

Following the freeze in the preceding year, 29% of vineyards required replanting. The extent of permanent damage to vines this year remains uncertain.

Different grape varieties display varying degrees of susceptibility. In the Okanagan region in 2023, Syrah suffered the most significant impact at 72% reduction, followed by Merlot, the most widely planted variety, at 66% down. Riesling exhibited greater resilience with a 41% decrease, while Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay also proved relatively robust, with declines of 47%

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Alcohol abuse is hazardous for your health. Please enjoy responsibly.

51

Record of DSF General Assembly 08-04-2024 AG E N DA:

1. Christian Aarø was chosen as the conductor of the meeting and confirmed that the summons had issued in timely fashion.

2. President's report on the past year and the near future: 2023 had been af busy year.

We've welcomed many new members making us a significantly larger association as of 2024 which is great.

On 16/5-23 the Danish Sommeliers Championship was held at Axelborg where Andrea Sala won, Ketil Sauer placed 2nd and Jakub Filipek 3rd.

At the Nordic Championship, Jonathan and Ketil were participants, and Jonathan took home the gold in this this third attempt.

We had a masterclass with CIVC which he hope to see repeated, and the board is currently working targeted to secure yet a member’s trip to the Champagne region.

In 2023 we also had the selection round for the upcoming European Championship, which resulted in Jonathan Gouveia securing his spot To participate in the selection, the candidate must have made it to the finals of the Danish Championship.

2024 began with the hugely successful New Year’s Easel opened

by Masterclass by California Wine. On the occasion 80 new members were admitted to DSF. A necessary expansion which in turn will demand more of the

board in terms of events, tastings etc.

Internationally, the past year has seen an ASI General Assembly twice; in Monaco and in Helsinki. Furthermore, ASI is arranging an annual bootcamp, where DSF has not participated the past two years. This year it is in Spain, and members of DSF are encouraged to apply for participation. The board will select 1-2 people for the opportunity.

There will also be a sommelier training event taught by Søren Polonius – last time it was in Gdánsk, unfortunately without Danish participation (hopefully that too will be different in 2024).

Examinatinos for ASI Diploma level 1, 2 and 3 are available every year. Next chance for level 1 is on May 28th. Level one is likely not considered difficult for any member of the Danish association, so any member not already holding the certification are encouraged to apply – there will be a tasting following the examination. Vice President, Tim Vollerslev, has reported that the certification is greatly valued abroad.

The members magazine is continued as an exclusively online entity – whether a special printed coffee table edition towards the end of the year is relevant the board will decide. Nina is leaving the position as editor in chief as of 2025 after 6 [red.]

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years. We are hoping to find a new, good editor to replace her and will post the job on the online platform.

To Jess, who is leavig the board, we wish to extend a deep gratitude. Jess will continue to help out with competitions.

Soon, we will get a new website.

In comparison to the websites of other sommeliers associations globally, we find ourselves already rather highly ranked, yet we see there is room for making it even better.

In the end of May/beginning of June there is a trip to Slovenia which was offered to the members, which Ketil will participate on.

The Danish Championship for Sommeliers as well as admission test for the Association will be Monday the 2nd of September, where we true to tradition will have an open tasting with our fantastic Sponsors followed by a Galla dinner after the competition.

The Nordic Championship takes place in Oslo on October 12-14th. The European Championship takes place in Serbia in November, where Jonathan Gouveia will represent Denmark.

Around December we will arrange a sort of Christmas get together for the members.

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3. The treasurer’s report of the year: The report is approved by auditor Søren Hansen. Account 1: The number of members is rising. The new arrangement with the Sommelier educations will make the result from 2024 greater than that of 2023.

Account 2: Sponsors. Bonnie is doing a massive work on this account. If anyone has potential leads to new sponsers, she will gladly recieve them.

Account 3: The magazine being exclusively online has brought down the expense of this account. However, the coffee table edition (5th publishing of the year) will not be invoiced until the calendar year 2024.

Account 4: Office. Not massive differences year to year on this account. This is where all the small, daily stuff is recorded such as diplomas, website etc.

Account 5: Stripe. Our payment system keeping track of our members. The fee on the membership is added to this account.

Account 6: Porto. With the magazine being online we have saved on this account.

Account 7, account 8, account 10: Same a last year.

Account 9: Travels and hotel for ASI. Currently 0 as Tim Vollerslev has been compensated

by ASI as their Liaison officer.

Account 11: Events. Danish Championship and Nordic Championship were in Denmark – it will be another 4 years until the baton of hosting returns to us.

Account 12: Hotels. Smaller than last year.

Account 13: Interest rates.

The report was approved by the General Assembly.

4. Board Election: Kim Thygesen is reelected.

Tim Vollerslev is reelected.

Bonnie Reinwald is reelected.

Christian Høj-Jørgensen is reelected.

Jess Kildetoft is stepping down.

There is one available spot for 1 year’s tenure and one available spot for 2 years tenure.

New members of the board: Ronja Bo Gustavsson Kenny Jess Brandt Thus the board of 2024 is as follows: Christian Aarø Tim Vollerslev Heine Egelund Bonnie Reinwald Christian Thorsholt Christioan Høj-Jørgensen Julie Færch Kim Thygesen 5. Election of auditor: Søren Hansen is reelected.

6. Proposals recieved: 6.1 Tim: There has been quiet the debate regarding accepting members from the wine educating directly into the association without them passing our admission test. The statutes have been updated accordingly.

The association was originally founded for people working in restaurants and continues to be intended for people working actively as sommeliers in restaurants. This is one of the base principles constituting the very 54

DNA of the association. A newly admitted member must therefore be active in the traditional meaning of a sommelier. This is the argument against wine merchants/importers being accepted into the association, despite them maybe having a great knowledge: Our sponsors expect the members they invite to tastings etc. to be active sommeliers.

6.2 What is ASI? ASI is the international sommelier association with 70 member states. Since its foundation in 1969, its importance and activity has developed enormously. Today there are continental Championships in Europa, Oceania, America and soon Africa and Middle East.

Furthermore, on the past few years, they have taken a more active role as educators offering the annual bootcamp for sommeliers who haven’t previously been in the finals of an international competition. Ketil has participated the first of these bootcamps, but the past two times it has been without Danish participation. They have released a set of video guidelines for sommeliers where previous World Champions explains the criteria and idea behind each of the most typical disciplines that a sommelier might face in competition or real life. In addition to that there is a set of written gudielines as scoring sheets available on the ASI website.

Prior to participating in a competition, it is recommended to look over these.

ASI have also landed a special agreement with guildsomm. com so members will get a special price.

Tim continues the great job as liaison officer until next year,

where ASI sees his role as completed with several of the committees Tim has acted as liaison officer to have been merged.

Tim warmly recommends the ASI Dimploma level 1, 2 and 3, which is held in high regard in many ASI countries. You can follow ASI on their Instagram and facebook, where they also share wine news and small facts about wine.

6.3 The magazine: We have a good magazine, and to maintain it we have to find a new editor. Nina is open to questions if you are curious about the role.

This also comes with a recommendation to read the magazine and utilize the free source that it is.

CHAMPAGNE

7. Other items: Ketil wishes to compliment the board on changing the statutes to welcome members who have completed Vinakademiet and Dansk Sommelier Uddannelse.

Initially he was sceptical towards the idea, but sees it now as a great move and the right path to pursue, only adding good things to the association.

Thank you for a good General Assembly. We are looking forward to see many old and new members at the events of 2024!

ROGER COULON DEPUIS 1806

”Roger Coulon remains one of the under-the-radar names in Champagne. I find a purity in these Champagnes that is hard to fully describe with words. It’s a sort of transparency - an expression of vintage, variety and place - that is both singular and compelling.” (Vinous.com)

HERI HODIE 1. CRU EXTRA BRUT (90 points Robertparker.com)

L’HOMMÉE 1. CRU EXTRA BRUT (95 points Vinous.com)

ESPRIT DE VRIGNY 1. CRU BRUT NATURE (93 points Vinous.com)

2013 MILLESIME BLANC DE NOIRS (95 points Robertparker.com)

CHAMPAGNE ROSÉLIE ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE (91 points Robertparker.com)

FØRES EKSKLUSIVT AF SIGURD MÜLLER VINHANDEL A/S

98 18 50 99 • vin@smv.dk • www.smv.dk

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Grower-Champagner med mod og raffinement

PIERRE GERBAIS “complex, refined, elegantly vinous Champagnes that are emerging as some of the region’s most compelling” – Wine Advocate

I Celles-sur-Ource i det sydligste Champagne har Aurélien Gerbais bragt familiens stolthed til nye højder. Aurélien har studeret vindyrkning i Beaune, og hans erfaringer fra Grivot, Arnoux Lachaux samt Domaine Beaucastel mærkes i dag i hans Champagner, der har tillagt sig en usædvanligt mineralsk og vinøs stil.

Kontakt sælger David Ekberg for mere information: 56 E: david.ekberg@laudrupvin.dk Tlf: 2360 1373 Mileparken 13 | 2740 Skovlunde | tlf. 4484 8086 | www.laudrup.dk

”ØKOLOGI I TOPKLASSE FRA ET AF ØSTRIGS FØRENDE VINHUSE”

”GANG PÅ GANG KÅRET SOM EN AF VERDENS ALLERBEDSTE ROSÉVINE”

Certified B Corporation since 2021

INFO@VINFORSYNING.DK

W W W.V I N F O R S Y N I N G . D K

VISION FOR KVALITET OG NYDELSE Høj kompetence og erfaring siden 1979 ligger bag Adriats spændende sortiment, der omfatter vine fra vingårde i hele Italien. Flere hører til blandt verdens førende producenter, andre er på vej, og nogle er stadig ukendte. Alle er de omhyggeligt udvalgt med samme store kærlighed til vinen.

www.adriatvinimport.dk

Adriat Vinimport as I TA L I E N S K E K VA L I T E T S V I N E

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Wine review with ChatGPT B Y: N I N A J E N S E N X C H ATG P T The discussion of AI, its pros and cons have just seen the beginning. So far, the scenarios are quickly unfolding into reality. On a day-to-day basis, it might still be a while, before Sommeliers can make good use of the power of AI, yet it already offers us intriguing and playful insights into how our industry and wine is largely looked upon by revealing the common language around it. With that comes the opportunity to expand our understanding, as Ludwig Wittgenstein said: “Die Grenzer deine Sprach ist die Grenzer deine Welt - The limits of your language is the limit of your world”.

In the spirit of that and for good fun, I have asked ChatGPT to review iconic wines as if they were an iconic character from the real world:

2015 S C R E A M I N G E AG L E, D O N A L D T R U M P:

Let me tell you something, folks, the 2015 Screaming Eagle, it's tremendous, believe me. I mean, we're talking about a wine that's just like me, absolutely top-notch, the best of the best.

People are saying it's like winning the presidency – you just can't beat it. This wine, it's classy, it's elegant, it's got that wow factor that everyone's talking about. It's making all the other wines jealous, let me tell you. When you taste it, it's like a victory lap for your taste buds, it really is. So yeah, the 2015 Screaming Eagle, it's a winner, just like me.

2010 RO M A N É E - CO N T I G RA N D C R U D RC, DAV I D AT T E N B O RO U G H:

As we explore the world of wine, we encounter a true marvel of viticulture – the 2010 Romanée-Conti. Nestled within the illustrious vineyards of Burgundy, this vintage represents a pinnacle of oenological achievement, akin to discovering a rare and precious gem in the heart of the forest.

Behold its rich crimson hue, a testament to the sun-drenched slopes and ancient soils from which it derives its essence. With a gentle swirl of the glass, a symphony of aromas is unleashed – ripe red fruits, whispers of floral perfume, and hints of earthy terroir, all intertwining in a delicate dance of olfactory delight.

As we take our first sip, we are transported to a realm of unparalleled elegance and sophistication.

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1994 T B A S C H A RZ H O F B E RG E R E G O N M Ü L L E R, M A H AT M A G A N D H I:

The wine unfurls on the palate like a blossoming flower, each layer revealing a new facet of its character. Juicy cherries and succulent berries mingle with nuances of spice and forest floor, creating a sensory experience that is both enchanting and sublime. But beyond its exquisite flavors lies a deeper truth – the 2010 Romanée-Conti is a product of its environment, a reflection of the intricate web of life that sustains the vine. From the diligent hands of the winemaker to the whims of weather and climate, every element has played a role in shaping this remarkable vintage. In the grand tapestry of the wine world, the 2010 Romanée-Conti stands as a testament to the beauty and complexity of nature, a treasure to be cherished and celebrated for generations to come.

The 1994 TBA Scharzhofberger by Egon Müller is a wine that epitomizes the essence of simplicity, purity, and interconnectedness. Much like my own philosophy of nonviolence and compassion, this vintage embodies a deep respect for the land, the vines, and the hands that tend to them. With its delicate golden hue and intoxicating aroma, this wine invites us to pause and appreciate the beauty that surrounds us. It is a reminder of the preciousness of life and the interconnectedness of all living beings.As we take a sip, we are enveloped by a symphony of flavors – notes of honeyed sweetness, balanced by a subtle acidity that dances on the palate. Each sip is a meditation, a moment of profound connection with the earth and all its inhabitants. In the quiet contemplation of this wine, we find a source of solace and inspiration. It is a testament to the power of patience, perseverance, and reverence for the natural world. Just as I sought to cultivate peace and harmony in the world, so too does this wine remind us of the importance of cultivating kindness, compassion, and gratitude in our hearts. Let us raise our glasses in a toast to the 1994 TBA Scharzhofberger – a wine that nourishes the body, soothes the soul, and reminds us of the inherent goodness that lies within each and every one of us.

1990 L ATO U R, J E N N I F E R CO O L I D G E:

Oh my gosh, let me tell you about the 1990 Latour! It's like, totally iconic, you know? Picture this: you've got this wine that's been aging like fine wine (pun intended!) since 1990, and when you finally pop the cork, it's like a blast from the past, in the best way possible! So, imagine taking a sip and being transported back in time to the '90s – the era of scrunchies, boy bands, and flannel shirts. But this isn't just any trip down memory lane, nope! It's like a VIP tour with a glass of wine in hand.

1986 U N I CO V E G A S I C I L I A, S N O O P D O G G:

Ayy, check it, 1986 Unico, baby, that's where it's at. Now, when it comes to wine, you gotta roll with the classics, right? And '86, man, that's a vintage that's straight-up legendary. Now, picture this, you pop open a bottle of that '86 goodness, and it's like you're transported back in time, cruisin' down the street with the top down, vibes on full blast. The flavors, the aromas, they hit you like a smooth beat, just groovin' along. I'm talkin' silky smooth and about notes of dark berries, a touch of spice, and some oak, a hint of spice to keep things interesting. It's the kinda wine you wanna kick back with, ya know? Pour yourself a glass, put on some tunes, and just vibe out.

The 1990 Latour? It's smooth, it's sophisticated, and it's got layers of flavor that'll make your taste buds do a happy dance. It's like the red carpet of wines, ready to impress with its elegance and class. So, whether you're sharing it with friends or treating yourself to a solo tasting session, the 1990 Latour is guaranteed to make any occasion feel like a Hollywood blockbuster – complete with a blockbuster-worthy ending, of course!

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2016 S A S S I CA I A, G R E T H A T H U N B E RG:

2005 M O N T RAC H E T D O M A I N E L E F L A I V E, S E R E N A W I L L I A M S:

The 2016 Sassicaia, it's a wine that comes from Italy, I think. It's made from grapes grown in Tuscany, and, um, it's supposed to be really good. I'm not really into wine, to be honest. I mean, it's not something I focus on. But, um, yeah, I've heard that the 2016 Sassicaia is, like, acclaimed by experts and stuff. It's, uh, probably got a rich flavor profile and, you know, pairs well with Italian cuisine. I don't really have much else to say about it.

Can we talk about, like, climate change instead?

That's, um, kind of more important, you know?

Oh, let's talk about the 2005 Montrachet Domaine Leflaive, honey. This wine is like a championship match on the court, full of power, finesse, and pure excellence. Picture this: you're sitting courtside at a lavish vineyard, the sun's shining, and you've got a glass of this wine in your hand. As you take a sip, it's like hitting a perfect forehand – smooth, precise, and utterly satisfying. This wine is like a Grand Slam victory in a bottle, with layers of flavor that dance on your palate. You'll taste ripe fruits, delicate flowers, and a hint of minerality that's just divine. And Domaine Leflaive? They're like the Serena Williams of winemaking, consistently producing top-quality bottles that never fail to impress. With the 2005 Montrachet Domaine Leflaive, you're not just drinking wine, you're experiencing greatness. So, if you ever get the chance to try this wine, I say go for it! It's a taste sensation that'll leave you feeling like a champion.

Cheers to excellence, both on and off the court!

1847 C H ÂT E A U D’ YQ U E M, R I C KY G E RVA I S:

Well, well, well, look at this, we've got ourselves a bottle of 1847 d'Yquem, haven't we? Now, isn't that a fancy vintage? I mean, we're talking about a wine that's been around longer than my career!

So, 1847, huh? That's like, ancient history right there. But you know what they say, old is gold, right? And I bet this wine is like striking gold with every sip. I mean, it's probably got flavors so rich and complex, it's like a comedy routine that gets better with every punchline. Now, I'm not exactly a wine connoisseur myself, but I can imagine that this d'Yquem, it's probably got hints of sophistication, notes of elegance, and a finish that's smoother than my British accent – and that's saying a lot!

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26 25 82 50

info@nybaekgrafisk.dk

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2020:

92-94 POINT ud af 100

HOS ROBERT PARKER

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