Rapaport Magazine - March 2020

VOL. 43 NO.3 MARCH 2020

VINTAGE TEMPTATION Is the thriving secondhand jewelry market a threat or a boon for the luxury sector?

Cover.indd 1

OPINION

I N TE RVIE W

TR E N DS

GE MSTONE

AS THE CORONAVIRUS SPREADS, THE DIAMOND TRADE MUST REASSESS ITS 2020 PROSPECTS

FIELD GEMOLOGIST VINCENT PARDIEU ON TRACING COLORED STONES’ ORIGINS

HEARTS ARE EVERYWHERE — BOLD AND ROMANTIC, PLAYFUL AND EDGY

CAN JAIPUR RETAIN ITS POSITION AS A LEADING HUB FOR MANUFACTURING?

2/27/2020 11:23:49 AM

36 PAGE

VOL. 43 NO.3 MARCH 2020

IN-DEPTH

14 NEWS Another slowdown in China; De Beers revenue sinks to decade low; Graff inks partnership with Lucapa.

18 REPORT What does Brexit mean for Mayfair jewelers?

Not much, it seems.

COVER

20 VINTAGE IN VOGUE Estate dealers share five major trends they’re seeing among their customers.

24 SECONDHAND OPINION Pre-owned jewelry is affordable, distinctive, and appealing to sustainabilityseeking shoppers. But what does this market’s growth mean for luxury brands?

28 INTERVIEW Field gemologist Vincent Pardieu talks about traceability efforts, the dangers of corruption, and how mining can benefit indigenous communities.

38 PAGE

RETAIL

30 RETAIL PROFILE Eliza Page in Austin, Texas, focuses on simple, everyday styles and the creations of local artisans.

32 RETAILRAP How to throw an amazing trunk show.

STYLE & DESIGN

40

COVER IMAGE: TED HUMBLE-SMITH/TRUNK ARCHIVE

PAGE

34 JEWELRY

CONNOISSEUR Romantic or empowering, the heart motif is making a comeback.

36 STYLE Brooches are showing up on red carpets in all kinds of configurations, adorning celebs such as Elton John.

38 DESIGNER Pairing rare gemstones with unusual materials, Italian jeweler Busatti Milano creates trendsetting pieces.

47 TRADE REPORT

40 LEGACY Hard stones get a chance to shine in an exhibition of accessories from the collection of cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post.

43 ESTATE JEWELS Lee Siegelson explains how uncovering a piece’s past adds another layer to its authenticity and appeal.

44 COLORED GEMSTONE

Jaipur has a rich jewelry history, but can it still compete with growing manufacturing hubs like Thailand?

MARKETS & PRICING Virus afflicts industry.

49 USA 55 INDIA 56 ISRAEL 58 ANTWERP 59 HONG KONG 60 DIAMOND DATA 65 PRICE LIST 77 RAPNET PRICE LIST 82 DIRECTORY 86 CALENDAR 88 THE FINAL CUT

DIAMONDS.NET

Contents.indd 1

MARCH 2020 7

2/27/2020 6:00:44 PM

N OTE FROM TH E P U B L I SH E R REAL CHOICES

I John Costello PUBLISHER

IMAGE: BEN KELMER

J OH N .COST E L LO @ DI AMONDS.NET

first came across the term “super fake” while watching television in a hotel room in Hong Kong. A documentary detailed how evolving technology such as 3D printing, new manufacturing processes, and highly skilled forgers were producing counterfeit goods that even experts found difficult to distinguish from the real thing. Rather than being “cheap knockoffs,” super fakes are relatively expensive, sometimes costing thousands of dollars.

In the intervening years, the technology powering this black economy has continued its relentless march forward. For example, the improved accuracy and precision of milling machines and other automated manufacturing processes now means the best Rolex fakes can bamboozle even expert collectors, and hence have become highly sought after.

In the world of diamonds, we are also being inundated with super fakes. This is making the conundrum of lab-grown diamonds increasingly complex. Just last month, the Gemological Science International (GSI) lab discovered a synthetic diamond that had been treated to mimic a natural stone. Someone had drilled into it, given it an inclusion using High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT), and then acid-bleached it out. This “super fake” was meant to trick people who incorrectly believe a diamond can be identified as natural based on inclusions, according to the lab.

“Diamond-growing technology continues to improve, and growers are trying to mimic natural diamonds in every possible way,” stated GSI chief information officer Nick DelRe. The warning from GSI came as Stanford University revealed it had managed to create a tiny speck of diamond by taking “a clump of white dust, squeezing it out into a diamond-studded pressure chamber, and shooting it with a laser.” As this technology improves, creating synthetic diamonds will inevitably become a far cheaper, simpler endeavor. And telling these super fakes from the real deal will become increasingly difficult.

In our industry, the one value we bring to market is authenticity, whether it is a natural diamond, a piece of estate jewelry or a string of natural pearls. Opening the door to the prospect of synthetic diamonds being equal to or a substitute for natural diamonds is to embrace the world of super fakes. Be careful what you choose.

DIAMONDS.NET

Note from the publisher.indd 1

MARCH 2020 13

2/27/2020 5:11:57 PM

COVER

SECONDHAND OPINION Pre-owned jewelry is affordable, distinctive, and appealing to shoppers who seek sustainability.

As this market gains ground, what does it mean for luxury brands creating new products?

BY LEAH MEIROVICH

I

n the not too distant past, buying secondhand goods was typically seen as reserved for those who couldn’t afford better.

However, today’s consumers have flipped that idea on its head. Not only are they more informed and socially conscious, they expect more from their brands, their purchases and themselves.

This mind-set has paved the way for the rise of secondhand as a mainstream market, and luxury products are at the forefront. From online ventures such as the RealReal, 1stdibs and Fashionphile to offerings in major department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Macy’s and Nordstrom, the repurposed-goods market is growing four times faster than that of primary luxury, according to the Luxe Digital website: From $24 billion in 2018, it’s expected to reach $34 billion by 2021.

O F COST AND CO NSCI ENC E While estate jewels and resale goods have long been available for purchase, a few major factors have enabled the secondhand market to gain a 24 MARCH 2020

Cover story pt2 Second hand.indd 1

strong foothold in the luxury sector. The most prominent of these is affordability, as resale gives shoppers access to luxury items at more budgetfriendly price points.

“Pre-owned, whether it be through jewelry, handbags or other accessories, is the young shopper’s modern approach to attaining luxury,” notes Liz Allison, chief transformation officer for Neiman Marcus Group. “This means offering luxury products and experiences wherever and whenever the customer needs or wants them.”

In April 2019, the group invested in secondhand luxury site Fashionphile, and currently hosts drop-off points for the e-commerce store’s goods.

Consumers who bring in luxury items can choose payment in cash or a gift certificate of equal value to spend in the store.

Pam Danziger, president of market-research firm Unity Marketing, agrees it would be “crazy” for consumers to buy full-price luxury goods when they could get the same thing secondhand at a lower price. “It just really represents an excellent

DIAMONDS.NET

2/26/2020 10:44:06 AM

IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK

money-saving opportunity, where you can enjoy luxuries but not have to pay the steep price of firsthand purchases.”

Sustainability also plays a large part as millennial and Generation Z shoppers come into the employment market and increase their buying power.

“There’s no question that this younger generation is really thinking, is much more conscientious and thoughtful when it comes to purchases and sustainability,” Danziger points out.

In that vein, retail chain Nordstrom has introduced the See You Tomorrow resale shop to give consumers easier access to sustainablysourced goods.

“We want customers to feel good not only about what they’re buying, but how they’re buying it,” explains Olivia Kim, Nordstrom’s vice president of creative projects. Kim curated the shop, which carries fine jewelry, clothing and accessories from luxury brands.

‘ T H I N G S N O B ODY ELSE H AS’ The individuality of secondhand pieces also appeals to younger consumers, who cringe at the thought of wearing what everyone else is wearing.

Today, fashion is all about standing out rather than fitting in, and mass-produced jewelry is not as appealing as a one-off piece that’s made its way back to the market after years in someone’s jewelry box.

“Millennial consumers are into things nobody else has,” says Danziger. “That’s a critical point.

They can really find something that gives them a feeling of uniqueness and difference, and not the same kind of jewelry pieces that everybody else has, and that’s a great value.”

Consumers are increasingly growing more comfortable with resale concepts, reports Oren Schneider, CEO of secondhand luxury-jewelry sites Circa and Mondiamo.

In fact, many of his sites’ customers will only purchase pre-owned jewelry, he adds. “They tell us they love the idea that they never know what will come in next.”

Another factor pushing secondhand luxury to the mainstream is celebrity endorsement, as with the launch of Kardashian Kloset in October. The e-commerce site, which is part of the KardashianJenner family’s many fashion projects, sells items such as clothing, shoes and handbags that once belonged to the well-known clan’s members.

And while baby boomers aren’t the main purchasing power behind this emerging market, they are certainly contributors. Back in the day, baby boomers were led into the luxury jewelry

industry through a small but impactful ad from De Beers claiming a diamond was forever. Post-World War II soldiers bought their significant others jewelry to celebrate being home. As these boomers pass away, their children and grandchildren are funneling the pieces they inherited back into the market.

“The largest transfer of wealth ever to take place in this country is in the midst of happening as baby boomers leave their assets to their children, and jewelry is an important category in this transfer,” says Chris Del Gatto, co-founder of luxury resale site I Do Now I Don’t.

BOOM OR BUST ?

Because the massive growth in the resale market is so new, there are many unanswered questions regarding its impact on the firsthand luxury-jewelry industry. Is secondhand a novelty that will hit a glass ceiling sometime soon, or has it carved out a niche that will continue to gain steam? Is it only younger shoppers and those in lower income brackets who will choose to purchase someone else’s previously loved items? How will the growing number of resale devotees affect sales of full-price items?

“I see the entire circular economy and the repurposing of all consumer products continuing to grow,” says Marty Hurwitz, founder and CEO of market research firm MVI Marketing. “I am confident this trend will continue to rise with jewelry. I do not see a bubble happening in my lifetime.”

Schneider concurs, noting a continued rise in US demand and predicting that secondhand will hit its stride as other countries follow the West’s example. “As demand in emerging markets such as China and India grows, the pre-owned market will gain even more momentum.”

But while the younger generation is tomorrow’s shopper, the segment still needs the support of today’s consumers to make headway.

“More mature, truly affluent consumers are just as willing to try the resale and the secondhand market,” says Danziger. “They will often start in on it by consigning items, but then they will discover that they can buy great-quality stuff for a lot less, and they purchase, too.”

Neiman Marcus says more than half of its customers — an intergenerational group — were already participating in the re-commerce market, and that’s ▶ DIAMONDS.NET

Cover story pt2 Second hand.indd 2

MARCH 2020 25

2/26/2020 10:46:22 AM

COVER

what led it to partner with Fashionphile. “Our customers want to participate, and the segment is here to stay,” declares Allison.

GAT E WAY VE R SUS CO MPET ITO R Management consulting firm Bain & Company believes the pre-owned market will provide an avenue for luxury brands to gain new consumers rather than siphoning them away from paying full price for name-brand jewelry.

“Across all personal luxury goods, the secondhand channel is becoming a new touchpoint to acquire younger customers, creating an opportunity to educate them and draw them into the luxury ecosystem,” asserts Claudia D’Arpizio, head of luxury research for Bain.

Still, uncertainties over the secondhand market are giving luxury brands pause.

“Most luxury brands have yet to capitalize on the booming resale market,” reveals Luxe Digital.

“Luxury brands have been hesitant to encourage resale for fear of cannibalizing sales of new products and diluting the exclusivity of their brands.”

However, Hurwitz says high-end brands that fail to accept or take part in the resale market will suffer a negative impact.

“The luxury jewelry and diamond industries are in a major transition stage, and the circular economy is just one part of it,” he explains. “As an industry, we need to accept that these changes are occurring and take steps to embrace them and benefit from them. This is contrary to the way our industry has embraced change in the past, and so it presents significant challenges to a traditionbound business.”

Italian jewelry brand Pomellato, part of luxury retail group Kering, understands the need for high-end jewelers to take an active role in the secondhand market. In February, the company announced it had formed a three-month partnership with Paris-based luxury reseller Vestiaire Collective. Customers who sell pre-owned Pomellato pieces on the platform will receive a 10% voucher toward their next purchase from the brand’s new collection.

T H E D I A M O N D E F FECT Although the secondhand luxury-jewelry market is having little impact on the diamond industry today, could its current rate of growth lead to a long-term ripple effect on diamond buying? After all, if preowned dents new jewelry sales, demand for rough diamonds could potentially drop.

Ronnie VanderLinden, president of the Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association of America (DMIA), doesn’t see resale having that 26 MARCH 2020

Cover story pt2 Second hand.indd 3

“THE LARGEST TRANSFER OF WEALTH EVER TO TAKE PLACE IN THIS COUNTRY IS HAPPENING AS BABY BOOMERS LEAVE THEIR ASSETS TO THEIR CHILDREN”

far a reach. “The secondhand market has always been there, and it’s not had an effect on diamonds,” he observes.

“People are just more aware of it now.”

He also suggests that business between the resale market and the diamond industry provides a “healthy back and forth” that will continue in the future.

Danziger does believe diamonds are under threat, but feels the danger comes more from lab-grown stones than from secondhand goods. Meanwhile, the Diamond Producers Association (DPA) actually sees pre-owned luxury fueling diamond sales.

“The secondhand market reinforces the value proposition of luxury goods,” explains DPA managing director Kristina Buckley Kayel. “For consumers making a diamond purchase, knowing there is inherent value in the diamond they are purchasing and that opportunities exist to potentially sell it down the road is important to their buying decision.”

Diamonds have historically appreciated in price over the past few decades, according to Kayel, making them an asset the purchaser can enjoy without an erosion of value over time. “For this reason, diamonds have a very unique position within the secondhand market.”

TE STI NG THE WATERS Pomellato isn’t the only luxury brand giving secondhand a try. Fashion label Burberry has partnered with The RealReal, while luxury group Richemont — owner of watchmakers IWC Schaffhausen and Piaget, among other labels — acquired UK online watch-resale platform Watchfinder in 2018.

However, many others, like Chanel, are notoriously against the notion, claiming that the resale market not only undercuts its brand name, but also opens the door to counterfeiting.

“Only Chanel itself can know what is genuine Chanel,” the brand declared in a 2018 lawsuit it filed against The RealReal for allegedly selling counterfeit handbags.

How important is luxury retailer participation in the secondhand market? Danziger says the ones that choose not to join the growing pre-owned boom are likely to get left behind. “This could potentially be a big game-changer for the jewelry industry and the jewelry retail market, so it’s something that people really need to be paying attention to, and seeing how they can get in on it, before they fall victim to it.” ◼

DIAMONDS.NET

2/26/2020 10:44:28 AM

T HE G R E A T D E B A T E The secondhand market is a “potential avenue for brands to reach a new audience and enlarge their customer base,” according to Bain & Company’s November 2019 Luxury Study. But does this hold true? Will the resale market serve as a gateway for introducing new consumers to luxury, or will it overtake the primary market as consumers bid adieu to full-price jewelry? Here’s what industry experts have to say.

S ECO N D H AND AS AN ENTRY P OINT TO LUXURY

MY CRYSTAL BALL ISN’T FUNCTIONING WELL RIGHT NOW, BUT DESPITE THAT, I THINK I CAN SAY I DON’T SEE RESALE DAMAGING LUXURY SALES. — Ronnie VanderLinden, Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association of America (DMIA)

“THE SECONDHAND MARKET HAS MUCH TO OFFER THE LUXURY INDUSTRY, INCLUDING SERVING AS A RECRUITING MECHANISM INTO THE LUXURY WORLD, ENCOURAGING PRIMARY-MARKET BUYERS TO PURCHASE ADDITIONAL PREMIUM ITEMS.”

— Boston Consulting Group

IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK

I THINK THERE’S ROOM FOR BOTH. MANY CUSTOMERS BUY NEW FROM THE BRANDS THEY LOVE, BUT ALSO BUY PRE-OWNED WHEN THEY FIND IT ADVANTAGEOUS. — Oren Schneider, Circa and Mondiamo

“PRE-OWNED IS ONE OF THE MODERN APPROACHES THROUGH WHICH YOUNG SHOPPERS ARE ATTAINING LUXURY ITEMS SOONER IN THEIR LIVES. OUR PARTNERSHIP WITH FASHIONPHILE ESTABLISHES A NEW PIPELINE OF CUSTOMERS FOR NEIMAN MARCUS, AS MANY OF THESE CUSTOMERS ARE FIRST INTRODUCED [THROUGH SECONDHAND].”

SECONDHA ND A S A THREAT TO LUXURY

“YOUNG, AFFLUENT LUXURY CONSUMERS TEND TO VALUE ACCESS TO LUXURY MORE THAN OWNING LUXURY GOODS FOREVER. IN THIS NEW CONTEXT, SECONDHAND SHOPPING IS PERCEIVED AS A RESPONSIBLE WAY FOR NEW AFFLUENT GENERATIONS TO ACQUIRE SOMETHING TEMPORARILY WITHOUT CONTRIBUTING TO THE NEGATIVE IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT.” – Luxe Digital

I THINK BRANDS HAVE RECOGNIZED [THAT THE RESALE MARKET] ISN’T GOING ANYWHERE. THERE’S BEEN CONCERN FROM FULL-PRICE RETAILERS THAT THE RESALE MARKET WILL BITE INTO THEIR REVENUE. — Sarah Davis, founder of Fashionphile, in an interview with Glossy magazine

“JEWELRY IS NOT LIKE CLOTHING.... IT WON’T WEAR OUT THE WAY OTHER KINDS OF SECONDHAND ITEMS WILL, SO I BELIEVE THE MARKET WILL STAY VERY STRONG, AND PEOPLE WHO ARE SATISFIED WITH PURCHASES MADE THERE ARE GOING TO STAY THERE. I SEE NO REASON FOR THEM TO MOVE ANYWHERE ELSE.”

— Pam Danziger, Unity Marketing

IT’S HARD TO SAY DEFINITIVELY, BUT IN GENERAL, THOSE WHO EMBRACE SECONDHAND GOODS AS AN ENTRY LEVEL POINT ARE UNLIKELY TO EVOLVE AND ASPIRE TO FIRSTLINE PRODUCTS. — Marty Hurwitz, MVI Marketing

— Liz Allison, Neiman Marcus

DIAMONDS.NET

Cover story pt2 Second hand.indd 4

MARCH 2020 27

2/26/2020 10:44:56 AM

INTERVIEW

From left: Vincent Pardieu at Rubyland in Mogok, Burma; visiting emerald mines in Afghanistan; and in Madagascar.

Opposite: Pardieu at a site in Kenya.

Digging up answers FIELD GEMOLOGIST VINCENT PARDIEU TALKS ABOUT TRACEABILITY EFFORTS, THE DANGERS OF CORRUPTION, AND HOW MINING CAN BENEFIT LOCAL COMMUNITIES. B Y R I C H A G OYA L S I K R I

V

incent Pardieu is a man of many talents. He’s embarked on 148 field expeditions to gem deposits in Asia, Africa, Australia and South America. He’s served as senior manager of field gemology at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in Bangkok, Thailand; as director of the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) lab in the same city; and as a gemologist at the Gübelin Gem Lab in Switzerland. On top of that, he’s a writer and documentary producer.

For the past 20 years, he has been traveling to gem deposits globally to help labs build reference collections for determining stones’ origins. His latest collaboration has been with the Bahrain Institute for Pearls & Gemstones (DANAT) and miner Greenland Ruby.

Rapaport Magazine caught up with Pardieu in Bangkok at the recent International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) Congress, where he gave a talk about “gem paintings” — the art of using non-gem-quality rough stones to create beautiful pictures, which help provide a livelihood for mining communities.

28 MARCH 2020

Interview.indd 1

IS IT POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE TRACEABILITY IN THE COLORED-GEM SECTOR?

Yes and no. Traceability is possible for stones that will be mined tomorrow, coming from a legal mine, but it’s complicated for those mined in the past. Besides being beautiful and rare, gems are durable, so most will survive us. If you are searching for a fine 5-carat Burmese ruby, the probability of sourcing it from a mine today is almost zero. On the other hand, death, divorce, debt and disaster (the four Ds of auction houses) are responsible for regularly bringing back exceptional gems to market. So how do we deal with traceability for recycled gems?

For stones mined nowadays, in some cases it is possible to have traceability [programs like those] offered by Greenland Ruby, a vertically integrated mining company operating in a first-world economy. But a small-scale miner working in a developing nation in Africa or Asia will have to tackle issues of safety, security and corruption. If the mine workers are well dressed, people might think he’s wealthy. He may then be harassed by corrupt officials or jealous neighbors. Corruption and jealously are the biggest hurdles on the journey toward formalization, transparency and traceability. The

DIAMONDS.NET

2/25/2020 1:11:24 PM

assassination of [gem expert] Campbell Bridges in Kenya in 2009 is a classic example.

WHAT ISSUES DOES FIELD GEMOLOGY FACE TODAY?

Firstly, finance, as you need to fund your mine visits. Sadly, most labs don’t invest in research as much as they should. Some are too busy printing reports, and others lack both qualified people and income. Second, a field gemologist is rarely home, so this profession is personally challenging. Third, danger: You may at some point get malaria, food poisoning, accidents, etc. You have to expect the unexpected — good or bad.

IS THERE A FUTURE FOR FIELD GEMOLOGY?

trying to extract money. From what I understand [based on discussions] with miners, many had similar experiences. If taxes are high and corruption common, miners keeping a low profile might decide not to declare their production for both safety and financial reasons. Let us remember, stones are easy to smuggle, and people are easy to corrupt. If you have a stone worth $100,000, you can choose to either pay $100 for it to cross the border, or pay $15,000 in tax (if tax is 15% like it was in Zambia in 2019). Sadly, some government officials are more likely to make a few hundred dollars on the side than have the country receive significant income from taxes.

HOW DO YOU SEE THE IMPACT OF MINING ON LOCAL COMMUNITIES?

IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK

Yes, because there is demand for origin reports, because technology gets better, and because currently origin determination is being done by [only a] few experienced gemologists providing their opinion on a stone. Given the current age of these experts, when they retire, who will do this? Most young people I meet are not willing to sacrifice their work-life balance like these famous old-timers. I believe the only way origin determination can continue in the long run is via comparison of data from the customer’s stone with data collected from stones from a reliable reference collection. So somebody will need to build that reliable database.

Mining (legal or not) is excellent, as it provides employment. Besides mining, what are the options for many people in remote areas?

Farming? Hunting? Logging? If there is a civil war, they can become fighters, either for the government or insurgents. Given that farming does not often provide work all the time, many people I’ve met in the field consider mining to be a good alternative. The challenge for IN THE NEXT 10 TO governments is to make mining legal and to 15 YEARS...ORIGIN formalize it. The danger is when mining is DETERMINATION illegal, as police will not be present, [and] WILL PRIMARILY illegal mining villages will offer an excellent refuge for other illicit activities such as BE DONE VIA A poaching, drug dealing, etc. On the other hand, RELIABLE REFERENCE when mining is made legal and accessible, WHAT POINTS SHOULD LABS CONSIDER COLLECTION it creates legal jobs. When associated with WHEN BUILDING A REFERENCE good governance, it may give rise to an COLLECTION? ancillary industry and facilitate infrastructure A reference sample is a sample properly development. Business opportunities — from documented with the four [questions] of field supplying the miners to producing gem paintings — can be gemology: when, where, from whom, and how? When was the introduced and supported and might benefit both the miners sample collected? For example, if it was sourced in 1975, it cannot and the communities in the surrounding area in the medium to be from any deposit discovered afterward. Where was it acquired? long term.

At the mine? Or at a market? As parcels in markets are often mixed, the probability of contamination is higher. From whom was it collected? Directly from a miner or a dealer? And finally, how?

WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS? Did the gemologist witness the stone taken out of the ground or I don’t have a problem with lab-grown stones. When synthetic not? Answers to these questions will establish the reliability of the rubies appeared toward the end of the 19th century, the ruby trade went into shock; many companies went bankrupt. Still, reference sample. the ruby business survived and recovered by creating labs [for gem-testing]. Gem labs were born thanks to cultured pearls and WHAT POLITICAL CHALLENGES DO synthetic rubies. Synthetic diamonds are just a different product.

MINING COMPANIES FACE? They may impact the industry in the short term; however, in my In theory, governments are opinion, people will still prefer to put money on natural gems supposed to help. because there is no resale value for synthetic gemstones.

In practice, whenever I faced WHAT NEW PROJECT ARE YOU WORKING ON NOW? problems As I have said before, in the next 10 to 15 years, I do believe in the field, that origin determination will primarily be done via a reliable it was from reference collection. So my focus now is to continue building an someone authentic, independent gem reference collection that I can make in uniform available to labs globally for their research. ◼ DIAMONDS.NET

Interview.indd 2

MARCH 2020 29

2/25/2020 1:11:25 PM

THE FINAL CUT

READ ALL

ABOUT IT

A selection of essential books for jewelry lovers’ shelves, courtesy of JewelryConnoisseur.net and Rapaport Magazine’s contributors

T WO MILLENNIA OF HISTORY

Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems

by Jack Ogden (Yale University Press) Chronicling the history of diamond mining, commerce and jewelry-making over two millennia — through the 18th century — this exhaustive yet enjoyable tome features a cast of larger-than-life characters, including Alexander the Great and the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. Historian and gemologist Jack Ogden has paired his study with more than 100 images — some previously unpublished. These range from close-up, full-color photographs of historic diamond-set jewelry, to diagrams depicting historical methods of cutting and polishing diamonds.

SPOTLIGHT ON FEMALE JEWELERS

Women Jewellery Designers

by Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld (ACC Art Books) This latest offering from the author of 21st-Century Jewellery Designers profiles 50 talented female jewelers from the early 1900s onward, ranging from Alma Pihl to Michelle Ong. Weaving its way from pre-World War I through post-World War II to the present day, the book showcases a cross-section of designers and the movements they represent, including luminaries such as Coco Chanel, Jeanne Toussaint, Suzanne Belperron and Marina B. The book details each jeweler’s background, inspirations and influences alongside illustrations of their work.

FOR THE BOYS

Jewelry for Gentlemen

by James Sherwood (Thames & Hudson) Authored by London-based style journalist James Sherwood, this fascinating account examines male adornment from the sixth century BCE to the present day, with an emphasis on the past 100 years. The 256-page volume — the first reference book to focus exclusively on men’s jewelry — documents numerous individual works by key jewelers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, Boucheron and Ara Vartanian.

Accompanying them are hundreds of photographs, illustrating how both fashion and attitudes have changed during this recent revival.

Preeta Agarwal: Traditional Jewelry of India

by Oppi Untract 88 MARCH 2020

The final cut.indd 1

Marie Chabrol: French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century

by Henri Vever

Anthony DeMarco: Wartski: The First One Hundred and Fifty Years

by Geoffrey Munn

Jennifer Heebner: Brilliance and Fire

by Rachelle Bergstein

Rachael Taylor: Jewel: A Celebration of Earth’s Treasures

by Judith Miller

Sonia Esther Soltani: Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes the World by Aja Raden

WORDS: ALEXANDRA COXON

CON T R IB UTOR S’ P ICKS

DIAMONDS.NET

2/25/2020 4:00:01 PM