Goldfinger: Ramsgate’s treasured jeweller

Gold finger: Ramsgate’s treasured jeweller

Each unique piece of jewellery fashioned by goldsmith Polly Gasston harks back to the ancient world, from design through creation. Russell Chater went to meet her in her Ramsgate studio to find out more about her work and inspiration

Photography Russell Chater

You may have seen Polly around town. Resplendent in jewels, she is the perfect walking advertisement for her wonderful pieces. Her materials of choice are 22-carat gold and semiprecious stones. Combined with her aesthetic, these continue a dialogue with jewellery from the ancient near East: a period and part of the world that particularly fascinates her.

Born and raised in East Africa, Polly knew that she wanted to be a jeweller from the age of six. At a time when young women were “expected to be secretaries and not much else”, she was fortunate to be given licence to pursue this dream. After school, she went to Sir John Cass College in London, receiving “good oldfashioned training” that has served her well in an ever-changing industry. Indeed, she still uses some of the hand tools she trained with.

Making jewellery has “never lost its lustre” for Polly. However, her practice was put on hold for more than thirty years when, at the age of 26, she married a man who “demanded her full attention”. It would be seven years after her husband’s death, and following travels to the likes of Syria, Jordan and Iraq, before Polly resumed her practice with renewed energy and inspiration.

With a view to consolidating and simplifying her life, Polly moved to Ramsgate in 2014 after thirty years in Canterbury. She required a house with sea views large enough to accommodate her studio, her ageing mother, who lived long enough to receive a certain letter from the Queen before she passed away in 2017, sister Philippa, and Philippa’s husband and son.

She found all of this in the house she purchased. As well as offering unparalleled views of the Harbour, the house itself is stunning and has featured in local publications in its own right. Perhaps most importantly, though, it has brought everything under one roof, enabling Polly to focus on making her jewellery whilst Philippa takes charge of the business side of things. ►

As her pieces are unique, Polly seeks a consistent colour to the gold as a constant that “holds it all together”. Although much of her gold comes from a dealer in Birmingham, the semi-precious stones are sourced from Paris, Germany, India and beyond - and Polly likes to carry a large stock from which to draw.

Polly reveals that she often won’t know what she will make at the start of each day, enjoying the “organic process”. However, this approach has been curtailed somewhat over the past few months given the impact of Covid-19. With physical jewellery fairs (traditionally her main selling outlet) cancelled or relegated to online, Polly has taken on a few considered commissions to keep busy. For instance, she tells me about a young couple who commissioned rings for their wedding in August this year, while also recounting the story of a father who recently sought her out to create a necklace (pictured right) for his daughter from a bag of faience beads (glazed earthenware) that were unearthed in 1921 from the sands surrounding the great pyramids!

It is such stories that demonstrate the magic of Polly’s jewellery: beautiful, tactile pieces whose timelessness speaks to both ancient pasts and romantic futures. It’s at this point that Polly takes off a ring she is wearing so that I can feel the weight, the warmth, and the softness of it. I understand immediately how important it is for potential buyers to do the same and why a return to having physical shows of her work cannot come soon enough.

That said, there are potential events on the horizon, while hope remains that the big trade shows will return next year. Talk of the future inevitably leads to talk of Christmas, when Polly will likely make a few smaller and more affordable pieces for the season - an awareness of affordability also informing her willingness to consider payment plans.

When asked about what advice she might give to wannabe jewellers, Polly says, “Very few women in the world don’t want to adorn themselves, and everyone wants something different,” adding that the key is to “make things that are timeless, not fashionable”.

Time and timelessness, touch and tactility. Long after I have left Polly, these thoughts still linger. It doesn’t escape me how they resonate perhaps now more than ever.

pollygasstongoldsmith.co.uk Instagram/polly.gasston.goldsmith

Necklace of faience beads, photo courtesy of Polly Gasston

Georgian Brickwork is a Thanet based team of bricklayers who specialise in the restoration and conservation of brick built period and listed properties. The team are highly skilled in repairing heritage brickwork, including lime pointing, tuck pointing, gauged arches, and carved brickwork.

Sensitive repairs to a gauged arch: Before and After

del Renzio & del Renzio Architects | RIBA Chartered Practice

Georgian Brickwork workmanship is compliant with best practice principles for heritage buildings. Restoration and repairs are completed to the highest standard using traditional materials and methods.