Living Roots - Issue 5 - Fall 2024

RAFI’S MAGAZINE FOR FARMERS AND FARMER ADVOCATES

FALL 2024

GROWING CONNECTIONS Farmers Bring Flavors from Home to Local Markets

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contents

livingroots™ FALL 2024

RAFI’S MAGAZINE FOR FARMERS AND FARMER ADVOCATES

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26 Sewage and industrial waste water runoff often contains PFAS, commonly known as forever chemicals.

RAFI’s Lead Farmer Advocate Benny Bunting examines his dried hemp at a storage facility in Oak City, North Carolina.

departments 3

Farmer’s Connection

26 Field Notes: Toxic Harvest 28 Farm Forward

features 8

Hemp Unraveled

JOE PELLEGRINO, ISTOCK: DMITRIY83

The Complex Path from Field to Market

12 Growing Connections Farmers Bring Flavors from Home to Local Markets

16 The Dirt on Soil Testing Why, What, When, and How

20 Community Land for Community Benefit Creative Ways to Find Property for Farming

23 Agritourism Adventures Opportunities for Connection on Your Farm Front Cover: Paw Moo of Transplanting Traditions Community Farm, Chapel Hill, NC. Back Cover: Tom and Linda Savage’s Allied Organics Farm in Person County, NC. PHOTOS BY JOE PELLEGRINO

RAFI P.O. Box 640 Pittsboro, NC 27312 Phone: 919 . 542 . 1396 Farmer Hotline: 866 . 586 . 6746 livingroots@rafiusa.org rafiusa.org SCAN here for a FREE subscription to Living Roots

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livingroots™ MAGA ZIN E

Executive Editor Edna Rodriguez Managing Editor Beth Andrachick Hauptle

Kara Hoving Editorial Team Kelli Dale Lisa Misch Justine Post Photographer Joe Pellegrino Staff Contributors Carolina Alzate Gouzy Rachel Brunner Kavita Koppa Lisa Misch Angel Woodrum Proofreaders Matthew Adkins Mo Murrie Graphic Design Despard Design RAFI is a registered 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization; donations are tax-deductible to the full extent allowed by law. EIN #56-1704863.

RAFI believes in transparency, ethical accounting, and donor stewardship and has earned the 2024 Platinum GuideStar Exchange Seal and the sixth consecutive 4-star rating from Charity Navigator. © 2024 Rural Advancement Foundation International (RAFI) Issue 5, Published tri-annually Email: livingroots@rafiusa.org Web: rafiusa.org Union Label

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Dear Living Roots Readers, As we share this fall 2024 issue of Living Roots, we would like to honor and thank all of you who grow our food and all those in our communities who work alongside them. It was a tough summer season for many with significant weather challenges. We hope you and your families are safe. Your resilience serves you well.

The stories in this issue feature some truly innovative, creative, and entreprenurial farmers sharing their experiences and learnings with us and with each other.

Whether you are navigating the complexities of buying or holding on to land, seeking new ways to diversify your income, or looking for conservation or sustainable practices to enhance your farm’s productivity and marketability, we continue in our commitment to provide the support you need.

This magazine is more than just a collection of articles. Along with our website, it’s a resource designed to help you grow, innovate, and succeed. So when we ask for your ideas in our Reader Feedback Survey later this fall, please let us know what you would like to see covered in Living Roots. And how about sharing a farm story you think others would like to read about? Who knows, you could be on the next cover!

Thank you for being a vital part of our agricultural community.

Warm regards,

Edna Rodriguez Executive Director P.S. Please share Living Roots with fellow farmers and invite them to sign up for a complimentary subscription.

HILLARY GRAVES/CHATHAM MAGAZINE

Associate Editor

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farmer’s

DARAMONIFAH COOPER/SOUTHERN SARE

connection news/resources/events

Gaining New Ground RAFI’s Kavita Koppa and Carolina Alzate Gouzy overlooking a river in Puerto Rico during a tour given by Alliance for Agriculture (AFA) CEO Miguel Marxuach and cofounder Yanna Muriel.

RAFI IS EXCITED to introduce a new project, Gaining New Ground, designed

to support farmers in gaining access to land, funds, and markets. This project offers a range of assistance, including trainings, webinars, and workshops; one-on-one technical assistance with business planning, accessing USDA programs, finding markets, and navigating land transactions; crisis services for farmers facing disasters or financial distress; and farmer grants for purchasing or leasing infrastructure or land.

Farmers in North Carolina, Florida, the U.S. Virgin Islands, or Puerto Rico who have been actively farming for at least a year are eligible for this program. Details will be available later this fall.

SEE QR CODE ON THE FOLOWING PAGE FOR MORE INFORMATION

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farmer’s connection SCAN to learn more about the new Gaining New Ground project, Climate Smart project, RAFI’s upcoming Come to the Table Conference, and more.

Gathering for Change RAFI Conference starts September 30 WHO DOESN’T LOVE A GREAT STORY? Join farmers, faith

SEE QR CODE ABOVE

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Cows grazing at Cane Creek Farm in Snow Camp, NC. Regenerative grazing helps improve soil health.

Climate-Smart Farms THE CLIMATE-SMART PROJECT, RAFI’s collaborative grant initia-

tive with A Greener World (AGW) and Soil Health Institute, is well into its first year of implementation and has already engaged 85% of its targeted number of farmers. The project supports farmers who are committed to regenerative farming practices and looking to obtain the Certified Regenerative label from AGW to advance their market presence. Participants receive $1,250 for completing a regenerative farm plan and are eligible to receive up to $10,000 in incentive payments depending on projected emissions reductions and the specific climate-smart practice(s) being implemented. Enrolled farmers are gearing up for farm visits from the project’s technical assistance provider, who will support and guide them through the certification process.

This project aims to provide a pathway for farmers to improve their farm operations, gain access to regenerative and climate-smart markets, and join a growing network of farmers committed to environmental conservation.

SEE QR CODE ABOVE

JOE PELLEGRINO

leaders, nonprofit partners, and community members in Rocky Mount, NC, on September 30 and October 1 for RAFI’s Come to the Table biennial conference. This year’s event is themed “Food, Land & Sacred Stories,” which will explore these pieces as individual concepts and as a continual thread through the lenses of race and equity.

With a special emphasis on lived stories, the conference will explore the power of storytelling through workshops, panels, farm tours, keynotes, and networking events.

Since 2007, Come to the Table has brought together people of faith, farmers, and community leaders to tackle food access issues. This year, members of RAFI’s Farmers of Color Network will gather for a day in concurrence with the conference.

RAFI’s dedicated team has spent over a year planning this engaging experience. Join us for inspiring stories, memorable discussions, and the opportunity to connect with others who are passionate about making a difference.

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Visit NC Farms App

RAFI Staff Out and About

The Visit NC Farms app connects locals and visitors to farms, food, and fun across North Carolina. From the mountains to the coast, users can find agritourism activities, farmers markets, u-pick operations, and other fresh food in their area. The app also features fisheries, itineraries, special farm events, and local food, drinks, and shopping.

SEPTEMBER 21 Saratoga Springs, NY 2024 Farm Aid Festival SEPTEMBER 30 OCTOBER 1 Rocky Mount, NC 2024 RAFI’s Come to the Table Conference

cal assistance (TA) can help you understand your eligibility, improve contact with your local NRCS conservationist, communicate your farm priorities and goals, assist with paperwork, and address any concerns after applying. If you qualify, RAFI’s TA can improve your experience and help you maximize NRCS services and benefits.

NOVEMBER 2-4 Durham, NC Sustainable Agriculture Conference Carolina Farm Stewardship Association

RAFI STAFF, ISTOCK

Organic Mentor Program

This cooperative marketing tool helps farmers and agribusinesses connect to new customers throughout the state. Push notifications alert users to special events, crops in season, and new listings.

The app is promoted across North Carolina and through social media @visitncfarms.

The Visit NC Farms app is a public-private partnership between the North Carolina Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services, yellowDog : creative, and Oak City Apps.

Farmers, if you are in North Carolina and would like to be featured, your farm needs to be open to the public regularly or for seasonal events. This app is available in the Apple App Store or Google Play. visitncfarmstoday.com

The Transition to Organic Partnership Program (TOPP) is a USDA initiative that has invested up to $100 million over five years to provide education, technical assistance, and support to agricultural producers who are transitioning to organic certification. In the Southeast region there is a new TOPP mentorship program in which farmers transitioning to organic will be paired with experienced certified organic farmers in their region. Mentors will be compensated to provide one-on-one support to the mentee farmer, while the mentees will gain support, guidance, and development.

The Southeast region includes Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, Puerto Rico, South Carolina, and the U.S. Virgin Islands. SEE QR CODE OPPOSITE PAGE

JANUARY 10-12, 2025 Roanoke, VA VA Association for Biological Farming

NRCS Conservation Assistance USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) provides many services and financial benefits for all sizes of farms, ranches, and non-industrial forestlands. Whether conservation improvements are at the top of your to-do list, or you need financial assistance with resource-conserving infrastructure, NRCS can help.

Because most Southeast U.S. states have a financial assistance application “cut-off” in the fall or winter, early fall is a critical time to take action.

If you have active crop, animal, or tree production and would like help with the NRCS application process, contact RAFI. Our one-on-one techni-

RAFI recommends contacting your local NRCS conservationist now to describe the assistance you seek for the coming 2025 fiscal year (begins October 1, 2024).

It’s important to know that even though the Agency says it accepts applications all year, you may have to wait over 12 months to access assistance if you miss the “deadline” (your state’s Ranking Date).

And if you are already a resource-conserving champion on your farm, be sure to ask about NRCS’s Conservation Stewardship Program (CSP). SEE QR CODE OPPOSITE PAGE

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farmer’s connection

Capacity Building for Climate & Equity Policy Work BIPOC-led groups engage in policy advocacy RAFI’S CLIMATE & EQUITY Policy Project puts farmers of color at the center of policy conversations. The project provides funding and support to groups predominantly led by or serving farmers of color to engage in climate-related policy advocacy for the Farm Bill.

The Climate & Equity Policy Project was started in 2022 when RAFI began intentional conversations with coalition partners and funders to address the underrepresentation of farmers and advocates who are Black, Indigenous, and people of color (BIPOC) in Farm Bill and federal policy work. RAFI and its partners agreed that building the capacity of BIPOC farmers to hire staff, organize, and educate their networks at the grassroots level has the greatest potential to get farmer needs and climate priorities addressed in the Farm Bill.

The project has distributed over $600,000 through two funding rounds to 27 BIPOC farmer-led orga-

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nizations across the United States, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands. (At press time, RAFI was about to announce awardees of the third round of funding.) The policy projects conducted by each grantee have been uniquely tailored to the needs of each farming community and have revealed the power of storytelling and capacity building in successful grassroots policy work.

Round 1 and 2 Project Highlights: • Agri-Cultura (New Mexico) has hosted in-district farm visits with state and federal representatives highlighting the urgency of the climate crisis.

• Alliance for Agriculture (Puerto Rico) hosted a Farm Bill event with decision-makers and farmers called Conversatorio Comida, Clima y Equidad: La ley agrícola federal y Puerto Rico.

• COFED (California/National) has engaged young QTBIPOC farmers to share and document lived expe-

riences through storytelling that aligns with Farm Bill priorities.

• Cooperativa Organica Madre Tierra (Puerto Rico) recorded policy podcasts and conducted farmer interviews and in-person Farm Bill workshops with local farmers.

• Springfield Food Policy Council (Massachusetts) shared its nutrition and conservation policy priorities through partnerships with farmers statewide and by bringing youth and elders together to speak with legislators in D.C. As BIPOC farmers and organizations navigate the uncertainty of the Farm Bill process, the third round of the project kicks off in September 2024, when new and past grantee organizations will engage in farmerled policy initiatives to influence legislators to pass a Farm Bill for all farmers.

The Climate & Equity Policy Project is part of the Farm Bill Grassroots Capacity Building Project, a collaborative effort between Waverley Street Foundation, Regenerative Agriculture Foundation (RAF), National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (NSAC), and RAFI.

SOUTHERN SARE

L-R Top: Fello Pérez, RAFI; Miguel Marxuach, Alliance for Agriculture (AFA); DaraMonifah Cooper, Southern SARE and RAFI Board of Directors; Yanna Muriel, AFA; Zacha Muñiz, RAFI; Natalí Gaskins Rosado, AFA; Below: Jorge Perez Laham, AFA; Carolina Alzate Gouzy, RAFI; and Kavita Koppa, RAFI during a strategic planning meeting in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

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Notes from the Field RAFI’s Recent Trip to Puerto Rico

RAFI STAFF

AS PART OF THE LAUNCH of RAFI’s Gain-

ing New Ground project, RAFI staff met with farmers and partners in Puerto Rico in June to lay the foundation for upcoming work. With a goal to better understand farmers’ challenges on the ground, staff came away with several key takeaways.

“We wanted to better understand what makes Puerto Rican agriculture unique and to build relationships with PR partners to launch the project,” said Project Director Kavita Koppa. Early in the trip, the team visited two agroecological farms in the western and central parts of the island.

Naia Seda grows fruits, vegetables, and value-added products on a 16-acre farm.

She explained how land access is a big challenge for farmers in PR, where land prices are above farmers’ capital capacities, and land speculation has worsened due to tourism dynamics. Despite these challenges, her focus and passion remain firm, growing food for her family and community and contributing to the island’s food sovereignty.

Kelvin Gonzalez is a RAFI 2023 Caribbean Infrastructure grantee, and he used the funds to build a community kitchen where preparation of traditional foods will be taught and shared. Gonzalez explained the difficulties Afro-Puerto Rican farmers face, especially those affected by the lack of land access to continue farming.

Following the farm visits, RAFI’s Farm Advocacy team joined with the Land Access team to address farmers’ individual needs. Liz Richardson, Farm Advocacy Program Manager, shared, “Farmers often approached us with queries about disaster relief programs; some were encountering issues with applications or non-receipt of payments.” This hands-on work was a crucial opportunity for the team to gain a deeper understand-

RAFI staff members Benny Bunting, Kavita Koppa, Carolina Alzate Gouzy, and Liz Richardson along with DaraMonifah Cooper (Southern SARE & RAFI Board member) in Puerto Rico. ing of the challenges faced by farmers on the island.

The agricultural landscape in Puerto Rico is markedly different from the states — the crops and terrain are tropical, natural disasters like hurricanes are more frequent and severe, and the farming culture is often more community-centric.

Even with such differences, these farmers are served under the same basic USDA systems as farmers in the states. The advocacy team worked with farmers who fell through the gaps created by this mismatch and gained further insight into the need for flexibility within USDA programs to adapt to the needs of all farmers, including those on the islands.

The latter part of the trip was dedicated to fostering relationships with allies and partners in Puerto Rico. The team engaged with new partners such as Fideicomiso de

Tierras Comunitarias para la Agricultura Sostenible (FiTiCAS), the first community land trust on the island, and Fundación Bucarabón, a collective of women coffee farmers in the remote mountains of western Puerto Rico.

RAFI staff members also collaborated with USDA agencies and the Alliance for Agriculture, an organization with which RAFI already has a strong working relationship. “Standing on the soil where they work, talking to the farmers they talk to, and having honest conversations about their vision for Puerto Rican agriculture was invaluable,” stated RAFI’s Koppa. “It helps us both serve farmers and support the collective movement. This collaborative effort is a testament to all our partners’ and stakeholders’ shared commitment and dedication to supporting Puerto Rican agriculture.”

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Hemp Unraveled The Complex Path from Field to Market

BY ALEXANDRA SPRING

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ISTOCK/AYUMI YAMASHITA, JOE PELLEGRINO

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n 2019, Ellis Monroe made a game-changing discovery.

His mother, Youlanda Monroe, had been struggling with chronic pain and inflammation for years and was losing hope of finding a solution. Monroe was becoming increasingly interested in food as medicine on his urban farm in Durham, North Carolina. That’s when he came across research on cannabidiol (CBD), a cannabinoid compound found in hemp, a variation of the cannabis plant. CBD has both pain-relieving and antiinflammatory properties. North Carolina was one of several states that implemented pilot programs authorized by the 2014 Farm Bill to license growers of industrial hemp. Monroe eagerly signed up for the pilot program. After his first harvest, it was clear that he had discovered something that could help people, including his mom. He also uncovered the next phase in his career. That year, he founded Ellis Herbs.

CBD is a polypharmacological agent, meaning that it affects multiple processes in the body with a wide array of benefits, including pain relief and anti-inflammatory effects.

Because so many chronic pain conditions are rooted in or tied to inflammation, CBD has broad applications, including for arthritis and multiple sclerosis. It is also used to treat anxiety, post-traumatic stress disorder, and depression.

According to Benny Bunting, hemp is also a fantastic crop to grow. Bunting, a North Carolina farmer and RAFI’s longtime Lead Farmer Advocate, was immediately enamored with hemp. “It’s a beautiful crop in the field,” he says, not to mention that it grows fast, remediates soil, and uses significantly less water than crops like cotton. It also helps build organic matter and sequesters carbon (by some estimates, cannabis is one of the best CO2-to-biomass converters, with one hectare sequestering 8-15 metric tonnes of carbon per year under the right conditions outdoors). Along with cannabinoid compounds, hemp produces high-protein seeds and fiber that can be used in everything from construction materials to plastics. It can be lucrative at small scales with the right market conditions. Naturally resistant to common pests and diseases, it is well suited for organic production or rotation with commodity crops like wheat or soy.

Bunting and many farmers in the U.S. South see hemp as an attractive replacement for tobacco, as it relies largely on the same equipment and infrastructure. Dormant poultry houses on Bunting’s farm work beautifully for cloning plants and drying: the fans allow air circulation with negative pressure to control drying. Hemp can be grown as a cash crop or as a supplement to other commodity or specialty crops.

Growing hemp also comes with the sense that you are helping people. “It is a crop you could be proud to grow,” Bunting reflects. Like Monroe, Bunting’s interest in hemp began

RAFI Lead Farmer Advocate Benny Bunting strips dried hemp plants using a homemade device, which he designed to ease labor intensity while reducing bud degradation compared to commercial machines.

with a desire to help a loved one — his daughter — with managing her symptoms of multiple sclerosis. Bunting will be the first to tell you that hemp, while not an FDA-approved treatment for MS, really seems to work. Monroe hears similar anecdotes firsthand. With a direct-to-consumer business built on relationships with the customer, he can adjust levels of various cannabinoids according to each person’s needs.

“Each person, and each plant, is different. By talking with people, I can help them identify the cannabinoids that suit them best.”

A Complicated Crop

Each plant is different: Small changes in soil, weather, or harvest time can lead to significant differences in chemical composition. This complicates the production of cannabinoids. “It is a fantastic crop — if you are willing to give it the attention it requires,” says Bunting, who tested the levels of cannabinoids in each plant every week until harvest. Frequent testing is necessary to ensure appropriate levels of cannabinoids. Hemp and marijuana both produce THC, a federally controlled substance. Hemp produces only trace amounts of THC, but if left in the field, it can tip past the 0.3% THC threshold to be considered marijuana and cannot be sold as hemp. In addition, without precise storage conditions, cannabis plants rapidly lose potency. In other words, hemp is a fickle plant, not your average commodity crop.

Cannabis has a controversial history in the U.S. Until the Marijuana Tax Act of 1937, cannabis was widely produced, with Thomas Jefferson allegedly referring to it as “of the first necessity to the wealth and protection of the country.” The 1937 Act effectively criminalized all but industrial uses of the R A F IUSA .O RG

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SCAN to find links with more information.

plant. Then, in 1970, the Controlled Substances Act repealed the Marijuana Tax Act classifying cannabis as a Schedule I drug, illegalizing it in every form. President Nixon’s “war on drugs” disproportionately targeted Black, Indigenous, and people of color (BIPOC) communities, and its harms are still reverberating through society. The war on drugs also effectively put an end to the cultivation and research of hemp and hemp-derived products.

That was until 2018. Four years prior, the 2014 Farm Bill had established pilot programs to study the growth, cultivation, and marketing of industrial hemp. More than 40 states

TERMINOLOGY

was lacking. The market flooded, and oversupply caused prices to crash. Many buyers told farmers to hold plants in storage for indefinite periods. The instability of cannabinoid compounds meant that by the time buyers were ready, the CBD levels had dropped, and farmers were left holding the bag.

By 2021, acreage planted in the U.S. had fallen to 54,152 acres. Despite his fondness of hemp, Bunting harvested his last crop in 2022. That year, acreage dipped below 2018 levels to 28,314 acres. In 2023, 27,680 acres were planted nationally. Even with the decline in supply, prices have been slow to bounce back. In 2019, some farmers were getting upwards of $96/lb for CBD-grade hemp. In 2023, USDA reported the average U.S. price at $31.60/lb — and that is if you can find a buyer.

Cannabis is a genus of flowering plants in the family Canna-

Corporate Consolidation

While many farmers were losing out, Texas company Delta Agriculture saw the price crash there are multiple sub-species. The subspecies do not vary visas an opportunity. Delta Ag was founded by oil tycoons drawn to hemp for what they saw ibly but instead differ in their chemical composition of various as a resemblance to the oil and gas industry. cannabinoids, or compounds that affect the human body’s In a 2022 interview, chairman John Paul Merritt said of the company’s “big-ag approach” to endocannabinoid system, which helps modulate the central nerhemp: “We knew that with the price of hemp vous system, synaptic plasticity (how neurons communicate crashing and our farming practices, we could be the lowest-cost provider of hemp and take with each other), and the body’s response to external stressmarket share.” In 2021, Delta Ag planted ors. One cannabinoid, delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), is 5,000 acres of hemp to produce flower for CBD; grain for animal feed, supplements, and intoxicating. Other cannabinoids, like Cannabidiol (CBD), Cancosmetics; and fiber for textiles, paper, and nabinol (CBN), and Cannabigerol (CBG), affect body systems insulation. In 2022, as farmers were pulling out, Delta Ag doubled its acreage. without intoxication. Marijuana is a cannabis subspecies that Today, massive players that can ride out produces greater than 0.3% THC. Hemp produces less than oversupply dominate the market. By its estimates, Delta Agriculture supplies 70 percent 0.3% THC, with higher levels of other cannabinoids like CBD. of biomass for every CBD product. Other indicators of today’s CBD market are the lack of participated, and farmers nationwide tried their hand at regulation, the proliferation of FDA warning letters, and growing it. By 2018, 32,464 acres of hemp were planted. The products that do not contain the ingredients they claim 2018 Farm Bill removed hemp and all hemp-derived products to contain. A 2021 study found that 84% of CBD products from the Controlled Substances Act. This legalized its pro- tested did not contain the potency claimed on their labels. duction on the federal level, effectively opening the gates to Even more concerning, the same study found that one in four a new national agricultural crop, and the market responded. brands did not test for things like heavy metals, pesticides, In 2019, 146,065 acres of hemp were planted across the U.S. and other contaminants.

In 2023, the FDA committed to developing new regin what many describe as a “hemp gold rush.” A proliferation of CBD buyers started signing contracts with farmers, but the ulations for CBD, concluding that existing regulatory market was off to a rocky start. The momentum was not cou- frameworks are insufficient. Greater oversight may reveal pled with any sort of supply management, and production and the role this fickle plant ought to play in our agriculture sysmarket data — fundamental to farmers’ decision-making — tem. At the end of the day, hemp may not be appropriate for

baceae. One species of cannabis is Cannabis sativa, of which

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Top: Ellis Monroe with some of his hemp plants. Below: Rick Brown sharing about his experiences growing and processing hemp plants.

mass-scale production by mega-corporations. Cannabinoids are unpredictable; the slightest environmental change can throw them off. That’s why, according to Monroe, you’ll hear from just as many people that CBD “doesn’t work for them” as you’ll hear that it’s a “wonder drug.” Monroe suggests, “When you buy commercially available CBD products, there is no telling what is in them: They could be far less potent than they claim, or they could have higher levels of one cannabinoid over others.”

ELLIS MONROE, JOE PELLEGRINO

Resistance Through Relationships

Meanwhile, in Chatham County, NC, Ellis Herbs is a different story. Each of Monroe’s plants is tested for a breakdown of the exact levels of CBD and other cannabinoids. Armed with precise information, Monroe can customize his products with confidence. Relationships with his customers allow him to understand their needs, whether a complex balance of various cannabinoids or a simple topical cream of essential oils.

The relationship with the customer also means they can try again if something doesn’t work. When they find something that works (and more often than not, they do), they can sign up for a subscription to the product — creating CSA-style stability for Monroe’s business. Because he never sold to a third party, he was aware of the 2018 rush and consequent price crash, but it had no discernible effect on his business. This year, he hopes to expand from his half-acre plot to five acres.

In Warren County, NC, Rick Brown also got through the 2018 hemp gold rush relatively unscathed. A fourth-generation farmer dedicated to creative regenerative practices, Brown grew tobacco until 2017 but now grows commodity and specialty crops in rotation with hemp, which he grows primarily for fiber. He started with small-scale CBD production, but as Brown says, the writing was on the wall with the hemp industry. “I knew we had to diversify. I was originally interested in hemp for fiber, so when CBD prices crashed, that’s where we focused our energy.” Brown’s fiber contract requires the buyer to put up half the cost of production up front. He advises anyone looking to enter this industry: Know your market and have a plan. Understand the opportunity before you invest. Ensure you’re supported with a contract that invests as much as you do.

While fiber accounts for most of his hemp production, Brown also markets CBD through his brand Hempfinity, contracting with a local hops distillery to make CBD syrups, tinctures, capsules, and more. Like Monroe, Brown tests each batch to accurately reflect the chemical profile so people know what they are getting. Also like Monroe, Brown’s CBD operation centers on relationships. When prices crashed, Brown kept up a modest CBD production to meet the needs of Hempfinity’s loyal customer base, most of whom live in North Carolina. “People rely on it. So we had to keep growing it.”

For Brown, it all starts with relationships on the local level and building strong communities. It is, after all, the relationships we form that give our lives meaning. We choose whether to approach those relationships with intention and care. In many ways, hemp embodies this lesson. We can treat this remarkable plant like other staples of the agricultural economy: produce it on a mass scale and watch it slip into the control of a few corporations. Or, we can cultivate it within our communities, for our communities, with intention and integrity. Hemp, for its part, may only cooperate with the latter.

ALEXANDRA SPRING is a consumer protection and antitrust at-

torney in the Vermont Attorney General’s Office and a freelance writer. The views expressed herein are the author’s and do not reflect those of the Attorney General’s Office.

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GROWING CONNECTIONS Farmers Bring Flavors from Home to Local Markets

BY ANGEL WOODRUM

F Right: Paw Moo of Transplanting Traditions harvests tsoi sim, a tender green often compared to the taste of asparagus.

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EXOTIC CROPS, LOCAL MARKETS Tom Savage, Sam Crisp, and KC Kanu may all share a background in IT, but it was when they combined their unique perspectives on farming that their farmer collective Tropical Team took shape under the North Carolina summer sun.

KC Kanu teamed up with Tom and Linda Savage to grow specialty tropical vegetables. “I grew up with these vegetables in Nigeria, my country of origin,” Kanu says. “Tom also networked with Sam Crisp, who had a greenhouse, to collaborate on growing these vegetables year round. We decided to call ourselves Tropical Team.” Things seemed to fall into place after that.

Kanu specializes in growing Nigerian produce such as fluted pumpkin leaves, water leaves, scent leaves, and garden eggs. “The fluted pumpkin leaves are a best seller and the most challenging to propagate. Keeping the greenhouse warm throughout the winter is a major cost undertaking. Attacks of pests like aphids and spider mites pose a problem. Extended preservation of the leaves is also a challenge. This can limit our range of sales.”

JOE PELLEGRINO

arming is a profession full of heart and soul. Farmers sell products they’ve worked with the earth to create, and these bring sustenance and joy to customers. In addition to the emotional connection farmers have to the crops, animals, or land, farming is a business — and as several farmers shared with us — a business that requires a delicate balance of environmental, physical, emotional, and financial sustainability. Three farmers, originally from Nigeria, Zimbabwe, and Myanmar, shared their experiences growing culturally significant specialty crops for themselves and their communities.

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“My customers appreciate that [my produce] is grown without chemicals.

It’s labor intensive, but I wouldn’t do it any other way.” — Tanya Doka-Spandhla Kanu shared that when he visited a grocery store that carried produce from a wide array of cultures, the quality of the vegetables wasn’t the best, primarily due to the long delay between harvest and hitting the shelves. When Tropical Team was formed, Kanu approached the grocery store about selling their products and told them the team was growing. The store agreed to take the products on consignment. Now, multiple stores in the Triangle area regularly carry Tropical Team’s produce.

With Kanu’s expertise and Savage and Crisp’s farming experience, Tropical Team is uniquely situated to provide Nigerian produce to the market in their community. As they ramp up production, Tropical Team hopes to expand market reach.

ZIMBABWE ROOTS, MARYLAND HARVEST Passion to Seed Gardening is a farm in Maryland owned and operated by Tanya Doka-Spandhla. DokaSpandhla emigrated to the U.S. from Zimbabwe in 1995 with her two sons and spouse.

Doka-Spandhla shares, “It was hard to get used to the taste of the vegetables here, especially the green vegetables. I’d have a bad aftertaste due to whatever was used when growing this type of produce. Back in Zimbabwe, farmers didn’t use pesticides. Growing up, my parents had a huge garden. We never went to the store to buy produce. During school holidays, I’d visit my grandparents, and we would help them [on their land].”

The combination of Doka-Spandhla’s need for food that suited her palate and her experience working the land with her family spurred her to connect with the Montgomery County, MD Office of Agriculture in conjunction with Montgomery Countryside Alliance (MCA). MCA’s Montgomery County Land Link program helped her find land to grow chemical-free, culturally appropriate vegetables.

In 2015, Doka-Spandhla was paired with a landowner who had left a plot fallow for nearly seven years.

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JAIMIE MCGIRT, JOE PELLEGRINO

Top: Tanya Doka-Spandhla grows vegetables native to Zimbabwe. Below: Tom Savage of Allied Organic Farms harvests African water leaves in Hurdle Mills, NC.

“I decided from the start not to spoil the land that’s been lying fallow for so long. I decided I would not use any chemicals.

Instead, I would use compost, manure, whatever is chemicalfree.” These priorities remain firm for Doka-Spandhla despite the high labor intensity of chemical-free farming. Her farm is now officially Certified Naturally Grown.

Doka-Spandhla also spoke about marketing her produce.

“The main crop that I grow is white dent corn, which is very popular with people in Africa. You can roast it or steam it. It’s not sweet; it’s similar to Mexican corn but not as big. It’s very popular, and people always ask for it — ‘Is the corn ready?’ they shout! It motivates me. It’s laborious, but I know I’m growing something people like and enjoy.”

Given the vast array of diverse populations in the Washington, D.C. area, Doka-Spandhla said that demand for culturally appropriate foods, such as her dent corn and pumpkin leaves, was already there. In speaking about how her farm can provide these foods locally, she said, “I know that every single [ear of corn] I grow, people will buy and pay what my prices are. As long as the weather works out, it’ll sell. My customers appreciate that it is grown without chemicals. It’s labor intensive, but I wouldn’t do it any other way. I like to say the taste is in the pudding,” she says, chuckling at her metaphoric twist.

In addition to selling directly to customers, DokaSpandhla partners with MANNA Food Bank, Community Farm Share, and AfriThrive, a Maryland-based nonprofit dedicated to supporting African immigrant families and communities through economic empowerment, training, and building access to healthy, local, culturally appropriate foods.

Doka-Spandhla’s dedication to farming and her love for organically grown food from her homeland significantly influenced the marketing strategy for her farm. She says, “People tell me how good the vegetables are — there’s no comparison to that feeling of being able to get that feedback and supplying to food distribution organizations who are doing a noble job of supplying to a demographic that wouldn’t be able to get produce from these organic stores because it’s inaccessible to them. And now they can get it from a farm less than 10 minutes from where they live. As farmers, we have a role to bridge that gap.”

tural traditions in the Piedmont region of North Carolina.”

Paw Moo, Greenhouse Manager with Transplanting Traditions, shares farming motivations similar to Doka-Spandhla’s.

Moo explains, “My parents are farmers, and I have helped them since I was a kid. I helped them with weeding, planting rice, and planting vegetables such as cucumbers, chilies, and pumpkins. Farming is my passion, and it helps me save money on groceries.”

“Farming allows me to eat vegetables I couldn’t find in the grocery store. The vegetables that I eat from farming are fresh and chemical-free. Farming makes me move a lot more and makes me happy,” said Moo, who grew up in Burma, now Myanmar.

Moo enjoys growing bitter melon, Thai chilies, Thai eggplants, water spinach, long beans, and pennyworts, which she sells to wholesale channels and hunger relief organizations such as PORCH in Chapel Hill, NC. Despite Moo’s love and passion for farming, she says it has challenges. “There is not enough water. Sometimes, I have too many vegetables and can’t sell them wholesale. When the bugs eat my vegetables, I can’t sell them because the quality is not good enough to sell them wholesale,” she shares.

Moo feels supported by the community Transplanting Traditions has created. “I can plant any vegetable that I love to eat. I can build a trellis and bamboo hut under which I can take a break. It reminds me of home. Meeting other people at the farm and calling each other using our loud voices. It’s fun! We did that all the time back in Burma. The staff also helped us find a place to sell our vegetables. Without them, I wouldn’t know where to sell. Farming is part of my life; it gives me happiness and healthy food. I enjoy farming here and couldn’t imagine my life without this farm.”

In the field, RAFI repeatedly hears how farming is a profession of calling and mission. It is not just “the bottom line” that sparks these farmers to continue doing the hard, strenuous work of growing food. It is the want and need to fill the gap between familar food and its accessibility, all while feeling happy and grateful for work as physically demanding as farming.

RAFI thanks Dah Wah, who provided translation services for the interview with Paw Moo.

REFUGEE FARMERS IN CHAPEL HILL Transplanting Traditions Community Farm provides land, educational programming, and marketing support to Chapel Hill, North Carolina, refugee farmers. As a community farm, it promotes food sovereignty by providing “a cultural community space for refugee adults and youth to come together, recreate home and build healthy communities, and continue agricul-

ANGEL WOODRUM works as RAFI’s Market Access Coordinator, assisting farmers markets and farmers looking to expand market opportunities. Originally from Kentucky, Woodrum moved to North Carolina in 2015 to complete her Master of Divinity with a concentration in Food & Ecology at Wake Forest University School of Divinity. Since graduating, Angel has worked on various small-scale vegetable farms and co-owns a small market garden with her partner. For fun, Angel enjoys running, reading, and spending time outside with her dog.

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THE

DIRT ON SOIL

TESTING Why, What, When, and How

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oil testing can help you manage nutrients and amendments for optimum soil health, crop production, and pasture quality. Accurate and reliable test results depend on good sampling techniques. This article provides tips on how to get the most out of on-farm soil testing.

WHY TEST YOUR SOIL?

A soil test provides valuable information on the capacity of your soil to deliver plant nutrients and support satisfactory yields and quality. When you begin farming a new field, you need to know your “starting point” so that you can make sound management decisions to build and sustain fertility.

For example, a biologically depleted soil may be deficient in 16

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phosphorus and potassium — or very high. The former will benefit from generous manure or compost applications, while the latter requires a different approach to restoring fertility.

Testing your soil every one to three years helps you track trends and adjust inputs. For example, decreasing soil organic matter may warrant adding organic amendments. At the same time, increasing a micronutrient from low to optimal levels indicates that you no longer need to supplement it.

Soil testing can help improve crop yields by identifying potential deficiencies before planting. It can also save money and protect water quality by preventing overapplication of nutrients.

WHAT IS A SOIL TEST AND WHAT DOES IT TELL YOU?

Soil tests offered through extension services or private labs pro-

JOE PELLEGRINO

BY MARK SCHONBECK

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INFORMATION YOU MAY SEE ON YOUR SOIL REPORT

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PH: 7.0 is neutral, < 7 is acidic, > 7 is alkaline

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MAJOR AND SECONDARY NUTRIENTS: phosphorus (P), potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca), and sulfur (S), measured in parts per million or pounds per acre (1 ppm ~2 lb/ac)

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MICRONUTRIENTS: boron (B), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), and iron (Fe), measured in parts per million or pounds per acre (1 ppm ~2 lb/ac)

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SOIL ORGANIC MATTER % (SOM): index of soil health and an essential source of plant-available nitrogen (N)

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CATION EXCHANGE CAPACITY (CEC): the negative charge on soil clays and SOM that hold K, Mg, Ca, and other positively charged (cation) nutrients in plantavailable form

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PLANT-AVAILABLE SOIL N — NITRATE (NO3-) AND AMMONIUM (NH4+): typically not reported in routine soil tests as their levels fluctuate rapidly and can be difficult to interpret

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ADDITIONAL TESTS (EXTRA FEE): nitrate-N, additional micronutrients, soluble salts, or heavy metals

vide a snapshot of the chemical condition of the topsoil at the time of sampling.

Some labs also offer texture analysis, which identifies the proportions of sand, silt, and clay in your soil. Texture is an inherent (given) soil property that plays a significant role in your soil’s capacity to hold moisture, nutrients, and SOM and, therefore, in informing soil test interpretation and management strategy.

The testing lab uses an extractant that mimics how crop roots absorb nutrients to obtain an estimate of plant-available nutrients. Results are rated on a scale starting from very low (VL-critically deficient) to very high (VH-ample to excessive, may reduce yield if extremely high) and the results describe the steps necessary to mitigate for each of the readings. The readings between are Low (L), Medium

(M), High (H), Optimum (O), and Sufficient (S).

Most soil test reports provide recommendations for lime, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients based on test results. Nitrogen recommendations are based on the crop grown and yield goals.

CHOOSING A LAB AND SUBMITTING YOUR SAMPLE FOR ANALYSIS

Send soil samples to a reputable soil testing laboratory that will test for SOM, pH, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, boron, and any other micronutrients of concern for your region and crop. University extension service labs vary widely from state to state in the range of nutrients reported and the format of their reports. Virginia Tech’s test is considered by many R A F IUSA .O RG

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HOW TO TEST YOUR SOIL WHEN TO SAMPLE YOUR SOIL FOR TESTING The best time to take a soil sample is in the fall after harvest or early spring before planting. Sample a new field several months before planting so you have time to correct pH and nutrient deficiencies before your first crop. Repeat tests annually until desired levels of nutrients, pH, and SOM have been attained, then again every two to four years to monitor long-term trends.

Whenever practical, take samples in the same season and at the same point in your production cycle each year. For example, if your initial test takes place in March before tillage, do subsequent years’ tests at that time. This will make it easier to compare successive test results to track trends and adjust inputs and management practices.

HOW TO SELECT AND MAP OUT AREAS TO SAMPLE Each soil test sample should consist of multiple soil cores representing a relatively uniform production area. Sampling just a single spot within a field or garden can give misleading results, and pooling cores from areas of contrasting soil types or management history will mask essential differences in soil fertility.

A few examples of areas that should be sampled separately include vegetable gardens, cornfields, pastures; open field vs. high tunnel; a field in long-term organic management vs. an adjacent transitioning one; upland vs. bottomland, and much more. Scan the QR code above for more details.

Take multiple soil cores from spots scattered evenly across the area you are testing — at least 10 cores for a high tunnel or small market garden and 15-25 cores for fields larger than one acre, avoiding atypical spots such as a cowpie, a wheel track, a waterlogged patch, or near a building or fence line.

1. Gather Tools: Soil corer or shovel and trowel, plastic bucket (no metal), soil sample bags/boxes.

2. At each spot, remove surface residue or foliage. Then use a one-inch diameter soil sampling tube or soil corer to take cores from the surface to a consistent depth (normally, six inches for cropland or pasture; for orchards, 12-14 inches deep near the driplines of trees.) If you do not have a corer, use a shovel to dig a hole at least six inches deep, leaving a smooth cut. Then, use a trowel to remove a uniform slice of soil from the surface to six inches.

3. Combine cores in a clean plastic bucket. Mix cores thoroughly with a clean trowel. If the soil is wet, spread it in a clean plastic tray and let it air dry for one to two days. When using soil sample bags from the lab, add soil to the “fill” line. Otherwise, place one to two cups of soil in a labeled zipper-seal plastic bag or box.

Left: Melissa Bell from Center for Environmental Farming Systems shows the proper procedure of taking a soil sample at NC State University’s Agroecology Education Farm. In the third image, the author shows how to sample without a soil probe.

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HOW TO TAKE A SOIL SAMPLE

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resources about soil testing.

Soil texture

Depleted SOM

Desirable SOM

Loamy sand (>80% sand)

<1%

2%

Sandy loam

1-1.5%

2.5-3.5%

Loam

1.5-2.5%

4-5%

2-3%

5-7%

Silt loam or clay loam

easy to read; some may find NC State and U Tennessee reports a little harder to interpret; and U Georgia reports a more limited range of nutrients.

Private labs that serve the Southeast U.S. and cover a wide range of nutrients, SOM, pH, and CEC include Waters and Waypoint Analytical (multiple locations).

Obtain and fill out the lab’s sample submittal form. Be sure to indicate the test package and any additional tests you would like done. Follow lab instructions for shipping.

Once you have found a satisfactory lab, stick with that lab for successive tests to monitor trends over time. Because different labs use different procedures, switching labs can result in differences that do not accurately represent changes in your soil.

HOW TO USE SOIL TEST RESULTS

Interpreting a standard soil test for organic or regenerative farming can be challenging. Don’t take nutrient recommendations too literally; pay attention to low or very high readings.

A nutrient rated “L” or “VL” will likely limit production and should be applied. For a nutrient rated “H” or “O,” add just enough to replenish what is removed in harvest. Minimize or avoid inputs of a nutrient rated “VH” — especially if it is “off the charts.”

Monitor micronutrients and the three primary nutrients required for plant growth: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK). For deficiencies, apply once at the recommended rate, then monitor future tests to see if more is needed.

Maintain a favorable pH (6.0-7.5 for most crops) and apply lime for a pH below 6. Recommended rates depend on pH and CEC. To ensure sufficient Mg and Ca for crops, use calcitic limestone if Mg is very high and Ca is low and dolomitic limestone if Mg is below optimum.

A soil or crop consultant specializing in organic or ecological agriculture can help interpret soil tests. Organizations such as Florida Organic Growers, Carolina Farm Steward-

Summary of depleted and desirable SOM levels for different soil textures.

ship Association, and Georgia Organics can provide technical assistance or referrals to consultants.

LIMITATIONS OF A STANDARD SOIL TEST: WHAT IT MAY NOT TELL YOU

Standard soil test methods and recommendations are primarily based on research conducted in conventionally managed soils. They do not fully account for crops’ capacity to retrieve nutrients from deeper in the soil profile or soil microbes’ capacity to release nutrients from crop residues and SOM. In healthy, organically managed soils, crops may need less fertilizer than recommended. Overapplication of nutrients increases costs and may compromise soil health.

As research improves our understanding of soil life and biological nutrient cycling, scientists are developing new tools and methods to monitor soil health and the soil’s capacity to provide nutrients, especially N. In the meantime, farmers can supplement the information in a soil test report by observing soil and crop conditions, conducting foliar nutrient analysis to pinpoint crop nutritional status, and participating in side-by-side on-farm trials with and without a recommended nutrient input. In addition, soil biological evaluations are available such as the Solvita respiration test or the Haney soil health test. In conclusion, correct soil sampling and testing by a reputable lab can empower farmers to build healthy, fertile soils for profitable crop and livestock production.

MARK SCHONBECK has 37 years of experience as a researcher, consultant, educator, and advocate for sustainable agriculture.

As a Research Associate with the Organic Farming Research Foundation, Mark reviews organic agriculture and conservation research and develops educational materials on soil health, climate resilience, and crop, weed, and nutrient management for organic systems. He also provides individual consulting for organic farmers, taking a site-specific approach to soil test interpretation, soil health, and crop management.

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COMMUNITY LAND FOR COMMUNITY BENEFIT Creative Ways to Find Property for Farming

BY KAVITA KOPPA

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Opposite: Churches with unused land can provide farmers with land and opportunities to grow food for their families and communities. Top: Coach Jeff Gibson with his students. Bottom: Wendell Paris.

JAIMIE MCGIRT, WENDELL PARIS, JEFF GIBSON

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endell H. Paris has deep roots in Mississippi and agriculture. He worked for years — many of them during the tumultuous 1970s — for the Federation of Southern Cooperatives/Land Assistance Fund, which uses the power of cooperatives to prevent agricultural land loss and advocate for local communities. He helped thousands of farmers and those living in areas with high food insecurity organize land-buying cooperatives and credit unions across the South. One challenge they all faced was the lack of affordable land for growing food.

Paris worked with churches in Jackson and rural parts of the state to convert unused lands into community food plots. The city would otherwise have to dedicate resources to maintain the properties, so converting them to gardens was mutually beneficial. Looking back, Paris says he prioritized partnerships with churches during this time because he believed they could help “members and the community to start working toward levels of independence.”

The properties were relatively small, but Paris and the partnering churches used simple strategies to maximize their productivity for the community. Hoop houses were installed to extend seasons and grow food when it is typically too cold.

They used plasticulture to help maximize yield, punching holes in the plastic and burying seeds in the soil.

These plots allow partners to prioritize culturally traditional crop production. Located close to the communities they feed, the plots are planted with local residents’ preferred crops. For example, Paris knows that purple top turnips, Georgia collards, and Clemson spineless okra are popular vegetables in his area. This setup provides a readily available market through the church, providing community access to healthy local produce while minimizing waste and creating income for the producers.

Using idle city lots can be an affordable way to access land for food production. However, Paris learned that it can come with strings attached. A previous mayor in Jackson was an ally for this vision. However, political changes affect access: “When you change administrations and folks have different agendas … you can lose that continuity, that eagerness on the part of elected officials and community-minded people,” says Paris.

Those strings are what make the technical aspects of land agreements crucial. Jackson-area churches signed a

memorandum of understanding (MOU) with the city, allowing them to use the plots until the city found a buyer. When a buyer was found, the church was given sufficient notice to finish the season for whatever crops were in the ground.

This collaborative approach not only maximizes the use of idle land but also fosters a sense of community and resilience among local residents, ensuring that the benefits of farming extend beyond just food production.

FIELD GOALS About 20 minutes from the church-led community gardens, Coach Jeff Gibson has a different spin on weaving together land and community. Gibson became the head football coach at Wingfield High School in 2012 for a team “with the longest losing streak in the history of Mississippi football.” The principal at the time supported Gibson using his creativity to turn that record around. That’s how Coach “had the bright idea” to turn the team into a 4-H club.

Under Gibson’s leadership, the football team began growing vegetables on the school campus. As interest grew, so did the garden. They also leased land from a local farmer to produce one season, then leased additional land in a city park.

The team grew enough food to feed themselves, then sold the surplus to raise money to buy equipment, uniforms, and even letterman jackets. “The kids are unbelievably proud to wear the jackets because they know what they had to do to get them,” shares Gibson.

The success of the 4-H club led Gibson to start an agricultural academy at the school. After seven years, he became the director of the Jackson Public Schools’ Environmental Learning Center, where he manages several gardens, raised beds, chickens, turkeys, rabbits, quail, and guinea fowl. The learning center hosts students from across the school district on-site for nature-based educational programs and even features several miles of nature trails and a 3.25-mile cross-country course for district athletes.

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Community land means community partnership, so be prepared for the benefits of those connections and the possibility of difficulty. to a cattle farmer for 35 years, then turned into a fishing and hunting resort for a corporation. It lay dormant until the early nineties when it was converted into the learning center. Gibson says that his first few years on the property were entirely about amending the soil, creating garden areas, and clearing land. 2024 was the first spring with enough beds to grow crops.

This year, 4-H clubs across the district are creating farm businesses that will sell at a small, on-site farmers market in the fall. Ten percent of profits will be kept to pay for inputs; the remaining 90% will be for the students to take home.

The environmental center’s land is designated as “16th Section,” a term from the Land Ordinance of 1785. The Ordinance set up a system that divided land into square townships, each divided into 36 sections. The 16th section of these townships was set aside for public schools. In addition to Mississippi, this land division still prevails in some states in the Mississippi Delta. Every school district in Mississippi has a 16th Section Land Manager who collects bids from private businesses wanting to lease these properties. “Many of the people who lease 16th Section land sign long-term leases,” says Gibson. “[16th Section land] could be very profitable and very viable given the number of leases available.”

COLLABORATIVE FARMING: A PATH TO SUCCESS Both Paris and Coach Gibson see the potential for their unique property arrangements to also work for commercial farmers. The church gardens did not require long-term land access, so their informal arrangement worked for their purposes. However, setting up a more formal agreement is wise for someone seeking to use the land long-term.

Paris also acknowledges that working in community is often difficult. It’s important to “get several entities to come to a unified understanding, a progressive understanding of what we’re moving toward.” This means the church, the producers, the landowners, and the communities served must work together to agree on how to use the property. Each entity can also bring its own internal complexities; for example, the minister and the church board must agree before representing the church in external conversations. This process can get sticky if details are overlooked. Paris shared that, in one instance, food producers agreed to plant on the lunar cycle, but over time, it became clear that they were using different interpretations of how to plant on the lunar cycle. Your challenge, then, is to “get people to plant on the same moon” for a unique land arrangement to work in the long run.

No land arrangement is perfect, but working with a local church has real benefits compared to buying land from the 22

private market. For new growers, the cost of land is often prohibitive. Reaching an agreement with a church can reduce or bypass this cost. Churches generally own their land but frequently do not utilize it for food production.

Beyond the financial benefit, there is also a social advantage.

Growing on church land helps “counter all the messaging, the economic resources that flow into [conventional] agriculture — you’re moving away from all that,” according to Paris. “It’s an alternative that folks can get involved in [to overcome] the social and cultural break with land ownership and farming itself.” This rings particularly true in communities of color and for those who grew up around sharecropping, cash renting, and other exploitative farm labor arrangements.

As for Coach Gibson, he sees that the most challenging part of accessing 16th Section land in Mississippi is building a relationship with a 16th Section Land Manager. In Mississippi, all leases are on the Secretary of State’s website. Folks interested in leasing a particular property need to find the school district it is in, then contact that district’s 16th Section Land Manager. If demand is high for that land, a farmer may be in competition with others interested in leasing.

Relationships and clear expectations are paramount to successfully accessing community land. Community land means community partnership, so be prepared for the benefits of those connections and the possibility of difficulty.

You may have to manage conflicting personalities, multiple opinions, or busy schedules. Consider setting expectations on paper to ensure all parties are clear about the arrangement and to have a plan of action if things go wrong.

These alternative ways of accessing land can be affordable, rewarding, and creative models for promoting agriculture in your community. Like any arrangement, though, approach the opportunity with a level head and an eye for detail. This will help ensure the land arrangement begins and remains beneficial to all involved.

If you are interested in accessing land in North Carolina, Florida, U.S. Virgin Islands, or Puerto Rico, contact Kavita Kappa at kavita@rafiusa.org to learn more about RAFI’s Gaining New Ground land access project.

KAVITA KOPPA joined RAFI in 2023 after more than a dozen years

in agriculture in the nonprofit, for-profit, and cooperative sectors.

She is passionate about improving practical and equitable access to financing. She holds a Bachelor of Arts in geography and biology from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and a dual MBA/MA in Public Affairs from the University of Texas at Austin.

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AGRITOURISM ADVENTURES Opportunities for Connection on Your Farm

COURTESY LU MIL VINEYARD

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ravel, like farming, has been around for a long time. It was initially driven by the need for exploration — to scope out resources elsewhere like timber, minerals, metals, food, spices, or land itself. While today’s traveler benefits from technology to make the journey easier, some of those early motivations remain today.

Nowadays, people travel to escape from routine, learn something new, meet new people, and experience new things.

Agritourism, or farm tourism, can provide these benefits and other fulfilling and unique experiences visitors seek. Visiting a working farm or farm stand allows travelers to meet people who grow food for a living, learn about the operation and livelihood, and sample fresh local food.

From a farmer’s standpoint, agritourism can provide supplemental income and the chance to connect with community members and visitors who appreciate the fruits of their labor. They can serve as ambassadors for the farming community and exchange ideas with people from different backgrounds and cultures.

Many farmers have found that adding a tourism component to a farming operation doesn’t have to mean giving up control of their privacy or property. By establishing clear parameters in the beginning and careful planning throughout, adding agritourism can be a refreshing and rewarding new business direction.

A jar of jelly made from scuppernong grapes, North Carolina’s state fruit, at Lu Mil Vineyard in Elizabethtown, NC.

There are many ways to offer activities on your farm, such as giving hayride tours, offering educational programs, teaching about farm animals, or hosting events. Some farmers may wish to adapt their property to add a gathering or entertainment facility with farm-themed activities, while others opt for seasonal pick-your-own experiences or farm stands.

Regardless of your direction, one key to success is to be authentic to your operation; you should not add anything that goes against the grain of your farm’s mission and values.

BY CAROL KLINE, TAYLOR BASS, LILY HERBERT AND MACKENZIE LAW

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SCAN to learn more about agritourism in North Carolina.

telling your story. Scan the QR code for links to resources to help you develop new experiences, craft your story, and market your operation.

People will always enjoy good food, meeting new people, and learning new things. They also enjoy live music, having engaging entertainment for their children, and being surrounded by a peaceful setting for events. If you are considering incorporating agritourism into your operation, now is a perfect time to start planning for 2025.

Locklear Farms, located in Pembroke, NC, has flourished for over 22 years, offering fresh seasonal produce and hands-on agritourism experiences.

Ellery Locklear’s year-round produce stand welcomes visitors from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Seasonal experiences include picking your own strawberries from April-May, exploring the pumpkin Kendrick Ransome and Aerhealle Chace of Freedom Org feed their pigs in Tarboro, NC. Freedom Org centers the histories of enslaved and emancipated people in Edgecombe County, NC. patch from September-October, and accessing the greenhouse from AprilJune to purchase ferns and flowers.

Through dedication and word of mouth, the farm has blosRegardless of the degree to which agritourism becomes a part of your business model, it has the potential to boost sales. somed into a cherished local destination. Its rewards extend Many resources are available online and in person for farmers beyond financial gains, with patrons finding a sense of ownwishing to start or add an agritourism product. Cooperative ership and community in the operations. Over the years, Extension offices in every state provide resources to gener- Locklear has learned the importance of listening to customate ideas and address concerns such as liability. For example, ers’ preferences, and while they may differ from his own, he the North Carolina Tourism Extension program offers vari- recognizes adapting to their needs is essential for business ous ideas, guidance, and information on agritourism policy success in the agritourism industry. Locklear values the jouron its website. The UPLIFT program, also working in rural ney of learning and growth and embraces challenges with North Carolina to support tourism development, partnered resilience and creativity. Locklear Farms represents a fusion with the NC Tourism Extension to create a five-part video of agriculture and hospitality, fostering connections and lifeseries on agritourism housed on the UPLIFT website, along long memories for all who visit. with information on applicable grants and loans. Each state’s department of agriculture has resources to support agri- FREEDOM ORG tourism, and there are organized trade associations just for Freedom Org is a dynamic community organization in the agritourism farmers. North Carolina has a farm tourism app Princeville/Tarboro area within Edgecombe County, NC. and a website for visitors to peruse (Learn about Visit NC Since its formation in 2019, the organization has been dedFarms on page 5.) The NC Agritourism Networking Associa- icated to cultural and historical preservation, community tion is a farmer-to-farmer learning organization that provides economic development, and agricultural advancement. peer support and education.

Much of Freedom Org’s work centers around education The essence of agritourism is providing an experience and and preservation of the histories of enslaved and emanci24

JOE PELLEGRINO

LOCKLEAR FARMS

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JOE PELLEGRINO

pated people in Edgecombe County, especially in Princeville, culture, you’re at the mercy of Mother Nature. Instead of which, in 1885 was the first municipality incorporated by worrying about what she cannot control, Bridgers instead Black people in the United States. Freedom Org also works creates backup plans for when it rains on event days. Secto create educational and economic opportunities in disin- ond, partnering with other local businesses can ensure a vested communities, including by strengthening food systems. In 2023, Freedom Org expanded by purchasing an incubator farm and community garden. Led by Kendrick Ransome, Aerhealle Chace, and Marquetta Dickens, the farm program’s goals emphasize getting people outside, connecting with their community, and growing their own food.

Freedom Org offers year-round programming with increased activities in the summer, such as Princeville Homecoming and Farmlympics summer camp. The Princeville Homecoming is the centerpiece of Freedom Org’s tourism efforts, offering educational activities for all ages, farm-to-table meals, local vendors, and cultural presentations and performances. Uniquely, the Freedom Org team considers their main agricultural product to be education, as they support people in growing food to promote self-sufficiency and sustainable practices.

Freedom Org is a beacon of community development, blending cultural preservation, food Brenda Hunt works at an on-farm produce stand at Locklear Farms in Pembroke, NC, sovereignty, economic growth, and sustainable agriculture. Through its agritourism initiatives, the organization reconnects people with the land, promotes environmental stewardship, and aims to enhance people’s deep community connection. As she explains, no one is well-being through hands-on agricultural experiences, fostering coming to Lu Mil for a weekend and staying on the propa sustainable, connected, and engaged community. erty the whole time. Promoting and supporting surrounding businesses and activities fuels not only her own guests’ expeLU MIL VINEYARD riences but the local community as well. She notes, “The Lu Mil Vineyard, dubbed “Bladen County’s best-kept better each of us do, the better we do as a whole.” Lastly, secret” by the Bladen Journal, is located on the historic let agriculture be the true foundation of the tourism expefamily farm of Lucille and Miller Taylor near Dublin, NC. rience. Through maintaining the natural environment, Originally a tobacco farm, it transitioned to viticulture in upholding her family’s values, and educating guests on musthe early 2000s, producing its first estate wines in 2005. cadine viticulture, she curates an experience rooted in her Leveraging muscadine grapes, Lu Mil has become a thriv- farm and family history. ing agritourism destination offering curated wine tastings, multi-use event venues, and charming on-site accommodaDR. CAROL KLINE is a professor in the Hospitality and Tourism tions. Community engagement is central to Lu Mil, hosting Management program of Appalachian State University. Her events like the annual NC Grape Festival, May Day Jam- experience includes working at East Carolina University’s Center boree, and the Festival of Lights, drawing visitors from for Sustainable Tourism and the Department of Recreation & Leisure Studies, as well as a decade-long collaboration with the NC throughout Bladen County.

Cooperative Extension to address tourism development issues Denise Taylor Bridgers, granddaughter of the Taylors, in rural NC communities. For this article, Carol was supported by shares three key lessons from her agritourism experience. her colleagues at the UPLIFT project, which provides practical First, always be adaptable. Just as with traditional agri- insights into the impact of agritourism on rural communities.

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Field Notes

Toxic Harvest The Impact of PFAS on US Farms thest Northeastern corner of the United States. In 2016, the Maine Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) found high levels of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in the milk of a dairy farm in Arundel, Maine.

Also known as “forever chemicals,” PFAS are known to cause cancer, fertility problems, high blood pressure, and developmental issues. And it turns out that the PFAS found in the milk of the Arundel dairy farm was just the beginning.

Maine DEP testing after 2016 found over 70 contaminated farms, including at least four farms that have closed due to the chemicals. Nationally, the extent of PFAS contamination on farmland is unknown, although the Environmental Working Group estimated in 2022 that forever chemicals may impact as much as 20 million acres of U.S. cropland.

One of the primary ways forever chemicals end up in our food system is by spreading “sludge” as fertilizer on farmland. Initially, this process was considered an environmentally friendly way to deal with waste: “sludge” is a slurry of wastewater, sewage, and a wide range of byproducts such as decomposing plant and animal matter, pathogens, and heavy metals. In the 1980s, it was thought that spreading this mixture on farmers’ fields would help by providing free nutrients for the soil and keeping the toxic mixture out of waterways.

At that time, no one realized that the chemicals in sludge would remain in the soil and transfer into the grass and plants grown there.

Since the 1980s, we have come

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to understand that sludge contains forever chemicals, but the mixture is still spread as fertilizer in 49 states. Maine is the only state to outlaw sludge spreading, and in June 2024, Connecticut enacted legislation aiming to phase out the use of intentionally added PFAS in various consumer products.

After initial testing in Maine, the state legislature worked with farming organizations and the Maine DEP to establish a map of past sludge applications. Sludge spreading is regulated, and the state keeps records, so DEP quickly put together a searchable database so farmers and landowners could see if their properties had received sludge applications.

The state then began a testing regime, beginning at “Tier 1” sites where over 10,000 cubic yards or more of sludge had been applied.

Maine has led the way not only in PFAS testing but also in providing resources for affected farmers and holding the companies behind forever chemicals accountable.

According to Sarah Alexander, executive director of the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, Maine is about a decade ahead of other states in understanding the impact of PFAS on agriculture. Her organization’s current lawsuit against the Environmental Protection Agency seeks to push federal legislation against sludge spreading.

Throughout the rest of the U.S. and the world, accessible testing and public databases of sludge applications do not exist. Without accessible and accurate contamination mapping, farmers are left with a scary situation: not only is it possible you are farm-

ing on contaminated land, but nearby farms could be continuing to apply chemicals that leach into groundwater, possibly affecting your crops and even your drinking water.

As dire as it sounds, there are still steps you can take to protect yourself and your crops, or at least be aware of your risk of PFAS contamination.

Here are a few ways to determine your PFAS risk:

Test your water

The easiest and least expensive test to do is a water test. If your water test comes back positive, you may also find soil contamination. If your home uti-

PIXABAY/ SCHAUHI

THE ALARM BELLS started in the far-

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PFAS are near chemical plants, military bases, and anywhere fire-fighting foam has been used. Identifying potential PFAS sources in your geographic area can also help determine risk.

Pressure your representatives

Sludge being sprayed on an agricultural field. Sludge contains wastewater from industrial operations, sewage, and other potential contaminants.

lizes well water, testing for PFAS can also help determine whether to install a filter to protect your household’s health. Companies like Cyclopure make PFAS water testing kits, and some states offer testing resources.

When looking into test kits, ensure the laboratory is certified with the EPA.

Know your farm’s history

If you are fortunate enough to have inherited a family farm or are still in touch with previous property owners, you may be able to simply ask if the fields have been spread with sludge.

Understanding a property’s complete history can be extremely helpful.

Some fields may have had a single application of sludge, and some may have been spread many times, compounding the problem.

Asking neighboring farms about their sludge history is also helpful.

While your farm may not have had sludge spread on it, it could still be contaminated. Forever chemicals can leach into the groundwater or travel downstream, affecting other properties.

More than just sludge

While sludge is a common reason farmland is contaminated with PFAS, sludge is not the only source of forever chemicals. Other usual places to find

The problem of PFAS will continue as long as forever chemicals are used in everyday items such as cleaning products, outdoor wear waterproofing, non-stick pan coatings, and disposable fast-food wrappers.

Ask your local representative to pursue a federal ban on PFAS to hold companies accountable. Contact your favorite sports gear or fast-food brands and ask them to make their products without using forever chemicals. Support local and grassroots efforts for clean water initiatives or national organizations dedicated to eliminating PFAS. Defend Our Health, the Silent Spring Institute, Toxic-Free Future, and in North Carolina, ToxicFree NC are all great organizations to get involved with.

Remediation

Unfortunately, there is no “cure” for forever chemicals. Current remediation efforts to restore soil are costly and challenging to scale. However, scientists around the country are working on soil restoration projects.

Ongoing studies show promise, and there is hope that in the near future, a field contaminated with PFAS can be restored to growing land.

KIRSTEN LIE-NIELSEN is a freelance

writer focused on climate change, sustainability, modern agriculture, and rural lifestyles. She is the author of two books on homesteading and lives in rural Maine with her husband and many animals on a restored farm. More of her work can be found at hostilevalleyliving.com or instagram.com/hostilevalleyliving.

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Farm Forward

Print, Plant, Prosper IN NOVEMBER 2022, Dr. Shavonn and

Jonathan Watkins established Sowing Development Farms (SDS Farms) in Terry, MS, a few miles south of Jackson. This small-scale USDA National Poultry Improvement Certified and natural vegetable production family farm specializes in pastured poultry, eggs, okra, and squash. As the sole vendor providing produce at their local farmers market, the Watkins also cater their production to the tastes and culture of their community.

Zero-Waste Farming

SDS Farms’ operation is based on regenerative and no-waste agricultural practices, drawing on their combined expertise. Shavonn Watkins, with a Ph.D. in entomology from Texas A&M, specializes in international agricultural development, crop improvement, and integrated pest management (IPM) across subSaharan Africa, Southeast Asia, and Latin America. She now works at the intersection of clean technology and agriculture to reduce the sector’s high greenhouse gas emissions.

With a background in marine biology and 18 years of coding experience, Jonathan Watkins brings his own unique perspective to the farm.

Together, they harness their expertise to combine nature-driven and modern-day technologies in new ways to achieve sustainability at SDS Farms.

The Watkins prioritize eco-friendly and regenerative practices that use available resources. “Nothing goes to waste on this farm,” they share. For example, chicken waste is used to build up soil health. Produce not sold is used as chicken feed or composted. The chickens also assist in pest 28

Jonathan Watkins at his 3D printer.

management, alongside other IPM strategies such as introducing ladybugs and installing birdhouses to create habitat for pest-eating birds.

In addition to these nature-based approaches, the Watkins apply a novel strategy to minimize waste at SDS Farms: 3D printing technology.

3D Printing on the Farm

3D printing is a process of making 3D objects from a digital file. An object is created by laying down successive layers of material until the object is complete. Each layer is a thinly sliced cross-section of the item.

3D printing is considered less wasteful because the manufacturing process is additive rather than subtractive, meaning that a 3D-printed item uses precisely the amount of material needed rather than drilling, cutting, or shaping the item out of a larger amount of material. 3D printing an object also reduces the need for shipping, eliminating packaging waste and transportation emissions.

The Watkins have found many ways to apply 3D printing in their daily operations. For example, if they need to replace a broken part on their

OTIS WRIGHT, JR. is a farmer and RAFI’s Farmer Resources Coordinator in Mississippi. His years of experience working with farmers on the business of farming contribute to his current work with RAFI as a technical assistance provider focusing on USDA’s FSA and NRCS.

SHAVONN AND JONATHAN WATKINS

Farming in 3D

tools or equipment, they can print a new part in 10 minutes instead of waiting days. About half of their chicken coop was created with their 3D printer. Not one to rest on his laurels, J. Watkins has taken the technology a step further by incorporating AI. “We’ve had a problem with chickens in our garden. So I’m using AI technology to detect when they get into the garden, which can be tracked, and we can then humanely deter them from getting in.”

J. Watkins says that the possibilities for using 3D printing on their farm are almost infinite. “Imagine needing a new handle quickly for one of your garden tools or some tractor part in 20 minutes. I could have it printed and ready for use. Wow! Imagine needing a hinge for a door. In rural communities, the nearest store could be 20 minutes away. I can print one in 10 seconds!” he says. “As printers become more accessible and easy to use, I think every family should probably have one.”

The Watkins are not just innovators but also educators, eager to share their knowledge. “We would love to collaborate with other farmers in this area to help them benefit from the technology in our rural community. We could introduce them to technology that could revolutionize their operations.” Their commitment to knowledge sharing and community building is an inspiration, inviting other farmers to experiment and explore new ways to harness technology to boost efficiency and achieve more sustainable outcomes.

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