The REVIEW

February 7th, New York Fashion Week begins to present for FW20. February 8th, the first American citizen dies of the coronavirus in Wuhan. On April 20th, a total of 182,897 deaths are reported worldwide due to COVID-19.

The world seems to stand still as we continue to self-isolate and many have turned to art as an outlet of expression or simply for comfort. As have I—scrolling past photos of beautiful dresses imaging myself in an aromatic field of flowers. I have also, in this time, taken the opportunity to browse and break down my favorite collections for RTW Fall/Winter 2020. To hopefully provide some optimism that we will be alright by then. Here are some highlights.

FW20

TEXT by RIA ALONSO

NENSI DOJAKA | FASHION EAST

Central Saint Martins M.A. graduates are that of a different breed, and Dojaka is no exception. A unique take on patchwork using sheer panels of silk-blend crêpe, tulle, and asymmetrical ruching—I would normally say the seductive form-fitting silhouettes leave “little to the imagination.” Yet, the intricacy of the slinky garments creates an effect which is quite the opposite; the viewer is led to conceptualize sensuality, often symbolized by fluidity, with the atypical deconstructed designs.

As a stark contrast to his SS20 collection Simon Porte Jacquemus, chose an empty arena for his fall coed show— fitting for mostly simplistic looks of neutral linens. He did not stray far from his signatures with wrapped skirts, oversized blazers, strappy sandals, and of course: Le Chiquito. But there was a certain level of intimacy to the presentation with several cinched and cropped pieces which bared skin. Evidence that returning to one’s roots often serves as a reminder to why it all began, subsequently inciting beautiful and honest work.

JACQUEMUS | L'ANNEE 97

MAISON MARGIELA | RESTORATIVE

John Galliano’s 2018 “Artisanal” collection was one which enamored me, employing themes of repurposing. Galliano utilized this subject matter once again in “Restorative” with the concept of “recicla,” a crossover between replicating and recycling. The presentation blended pastels with bold reds, blues, and black in a multitude of layered de-constructed looks. Galliano recreates classics of the past and working/social uniforms using left-over luxury materials and even creating initial renderings with thrift store finds.

Lee is an Australian native, making it so that his F/W presentations often appear to have a S/S feel, juxtaposing the western hemisphere’s seasons. This collection continued to support the notion that Lee has mastered draping and clean lines but introduced a new facet, jewelry—not as a separate entity but coexisting with dress. Chains became one with garments as a waistband for a low-rise pant. Fishnet, thong belts, hook/eye closures—were also continual themes, which exemplified inspiration from raver culture.

DION LEE | JEWELRY FUSION

BALENCIAGA | APOCALYPSE

As graphics of thunder, fire, and smog lit up the ceiling, the runway was submerged and uncanny music filled the space. Demna Gvasalia was sure to emphasize that this apocalypse is exceedingly real and it has a name—climate change. Models were seen sporting mostly black; robes, leather, lock and key “chastity belts,” scuba-like “toe shoes,” and men’s thigh high boots. With dramatic pointed shoulder pads, the immersive presentation was as much of a political statement as it was a fashion statement.

Rick Owens is a man with no fear of the unorthodox. Themes of asymmetry were present with callous chains and leather, juxtaposed by entirely bright blue looks featuring leotards. Owens shared the theatrical nature of the collection, being that all people perform whether intentional or not, exemplifying a novel beauty in the unconventional. A nudge to us that straying from the expected should warrant celebration.

RICK OWENS | PERFORMA

This page: GIANNA ROSINA wears a red and white pleated dress, GIANNA ROSINA. Opposite page:ANNA TSUDA wears a checkered and blue satin dress, GIANNA ROSINA.

the muse

the muse