Feature

Baldwin on Fourth

A master tailor—and a Fabric Row institution— offers bespoke tailoring, custom upholstery, fabulous fabrics, and even sewing lessons.

By Suzanne Dreitein

Baldwin Fabric & Leather owner Larnell Baldwin has enjoyed a long relationship with Queen Village and 4th Street. Born and raised in Philadelphia, he moved to QV in the 1980s and raised his family right alongside his businesses at 755 S. 4th St.

Baldwin explains that, early in his four-decade career, “Philadelphia was the mecca for manufacturing. And... there was a time when, in terms of the garment industry, Philadelphia was just as big as New York.” The city was full of manufacturing companies and designers shaping fashion trends. From the 19th century through the mid-20th century, workers migrated from the South to work here for companies like After Six, Botany 500, and Quartermaster’s. Tailoring was considered a steady profession, with vocational classes offered at several public high schools, including Bok Technical High School and Overbrook High School, Baldwin’s alma mater.

In the early 1980s, though, there was a shift in the industry, and manufacturing moved away from the city and took tailoring and sewing jobs with it. Classes were phased out of high school curriculums because, Baldwin says, “some folks felt that the opportunities weren’t that great for people coming out of high school to be able to get lucrative tailoring jobs.”

Meanwhile, Baldwin set up Sartorial Fine Men’s and Women’s Tailoring, Baldwin Tuxedos, and fabric stores on 4th Street, which have since been consolidated into one location at 751-755, with the addition of Baldwin Fashion Institute, which offers a full curriculum of professional tailoring and power sewing classes.

Baldwin says when he first arrived here, there were many stores selling fabric, trimming, and notions on 4th St. Sewists could get everything from upholstery to bridal fabrics. Many stores were second- or third-generation-owned. But there are far fewer today. “Around the early ’80s is when I think that it basically stopped. I don’t think that there were too many more traditional stores that opened up, where the children took over after the parents retired.”

Baldwin in his Fabric Row store.

Photo by Jessica Griffin.

To the Rescue

With the rise of “fast fashion,” clothing production increased and prices decreased, making it more affordable to buy instead of make. Women, the primary sewists, had also joined the workforce full time, leaving them less time for sewing; that meant a decrease in the need for fabric and the closure of sewing stores. And Baldwin acquired much of his fabric stock and sewing machines from the businesses that closed. Occasionally, some of those machines are displayed in his window. “I’m the sewing machine rescue guy,” Baldwin jokes.

However, Baldwin says he has noticed that shows like Project Runway have sparked an interest in sewing and fashion design. “Now what I see is the interest coming back,” he says. “A lot of young folks went into the tech business and other different professions, but, especially since I’ve started doing the classes, I’m seeing the interest in really learning the trade again.”

Queries for online sewing classes have skyrocketed in the past few years. However, it’s hard to capture the skill and artistry digitally, and in-person classes can help take sewing skills to a professional level. Baldwin offers a full complement of classes from design to construction, using professional-grade machines at the Baldwin Fashion Institute. “These small schools offer an alternative [to college],” he says, “and not only that—they offer an opportunity to get into your passion without making a long-term commitment.”

COVID has also had an impact. “The pandemic changed a lot of people’s thinking—particularly younger folks,” says Baldwin, adding that for the new generation, there has been a shift from a focus on income to doing something creative as a career, one that makes a person happy.

During the pandemic, Larnell Baldwin created some 60 different mask designs to keep the community safe. His favorite depicts Martin Luther King Jr. and Malcolm X. For Eagles fans, The Philly Special design features Trey Burton throwing a pass to QB Nick Foles.

The Fabric of Change

Change is also happening in the home. “It used to be that people got more involved with their homes, in terms of decorating,” he explains. “People would have curtains made. People would have slipcovers put on their sofas. The drapery business was booming.” By the 1990s, people weren’t having things made as frequently. But now, particularly since the pandemic, with more people at home, he notes that there is a renewed interest in home decor.

It’s nearly impossible to replicate the experience of buying fabric in-person. “Online is not the way to go for fabric shopping. There’s no way to see how fabric behaves—you need to touch it; see how it moves,” says Bernadette Banner, a historic costume and history-influenced modern clothing seamstress. And, with only so much display space in a storefront window, the best way to experience a fabric store is to go inside and walk up and down the shelves upon shelves of fabric. Chances are there is more than meets the eye, at first, with bolts and rolls stacked in the basement as well.

As the focus of Fabric Row shifted over the past 20 to 30 years, some of the fabric and notions stores have been replaced with art galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. But Baldwin has no intention of leaving 4th Street any time soon. He’d like to continue providing excellent tailoring and developing his school as a viable alternative to college. ■

Best of Philly!

During his career, Larnell Baldwin has received a lot of accolades. A Hall of Fame Member of the National Association of Fashion Accessories Designers, he received an Award of Excellence in Menswear at Philadelphia Dresses the World in 1988--just before his move to Fabric Row.

In 2021, Philadelphia Magazine named him the Best Tailor in the city. The Best of Philly citation reads: “It takes a lot to stand out on a street known for fabrics and tailoring, but Larnell Baldwin does just that. His is one of the rare shops that can create custom leather jackets (along with skirts so fine they’re literally hanging in the Penn Museum) in addition to suiting.”

Baldwin’s work is featured at the Penn Museum.